Perfume Reviews Index by House

The following Perfume Shrine Index contains Fragrance Reviews by House. Please report broken links to perfumeshrine @ yahoo.com
The reviews solely reflect the personal opinion of the author and are not sponsored in any shape or form. 
Work in progress!


Aftelier
Haute Claire
Secret Garden

Agent Provocateur
Agent Provocateur (short review)
Agent Provocateur (original & short description of flankers)

Amouage
Epic for men
Epic for women
Gold for women
Jubilation 25
Honour for Man
Honour for Woman
Library Collection Opus I, Opus II, Opus III
Library Collection: Opus V
Ubar

Annette Neuffer
Avicenna

Annick Goutal
Eau de Fier
Grand Amour
Heure Exquise
Le Jasmin
Le Mimosa
Musc Nomade (Les Orientalistes)
Passion
Quel Amour
Rose Absolue
Rose Splendide
Sables
Songes
Un Matin d'Orage

Anya's Garden
Fairchild
Kewdra
Light
Moondance
Pan
Riverside
Starflower

Apivita
Earth

Aqua di Parma
Gelsomino Nobile
Magnolia Nobile

Atelier Cologne
Vanille Insensee

Ayala Moriel Perfumes
Fete d'Hiver
Film Noir
Gigi
Sahleb
Vetiver Racinettes
Yasmin
Zohar

Arabian Attars
Arabian attars from Yemen

Aramis
Aramis (short review)

Armando Martinez
Benefactor
Maquillage
Pillow of Flowers

Armani
Attitude for men
Armani pour Femme original
Bois d'Encens (Armani Prive)
La Femme Bleue (Armani Prive)
Mania (vintage, original edition)

Ava Luxe
Madame X
Midnight Violet
Pearl Musk

Ayala Moriel Perfumes
Fete d'Hiver
Film Noir
Gigi
Sahleb
Vetiver Racinettes
Yasmin
Zohar

Baccarat
Les Larmes Sacrées de Thèbes
Un Certain été à Livadia
Une Nuit Etoilé au Bengale

Balenciaga
Cialenga
La Fuite des Heures (Fleeting Moment)
Michelle

Balmain
Jolie Madame
Miss Balmain

Barbara Bui
Barbara Bui Le Parfum

Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs
Snake Oil

Blood Concept Fragrances
Blood Fragrances

Bond No.9
Andy Warhol Silver Factory
Coney Island

Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (2011)

Boucheron
Boucheron pour Femme

Bulgari/Bvlgari
Black
Jasmin Noir
Voile de Jasmin
Omnia Green Jade

Burberry
Burberry Body
Burberry London for men (2006)

By Kilian
Cruel Intentions
Incense Oud
Liaisons Dangereuses

Cabanel
Alahine
Early Roses

Cacharel
Anais Anais
Eden
Loulou
Noa, Noa Fleur & Noa Perle (comparison)
Scarlett

Calvin Klein
Beauty
Secret Obsession
Obsession for men (short review)

Cartier
Baiser Vole
Roadster for men
Santos (short review)

Caron
Alpona
Coup de Fouet
Narcisse Noir
Nuit de Noel
Or et Noir
Parfum Sacre
Poivre
Tabac Blond
With Pleasure

Carven
Ma Griffe
Vetiver

Chanel
28 La Pausa (Les Exclusifs collection)
31 Rue Cambon (Les Exclusifs collection)
Antaeus
Antaeus Sport
Bel Respiro (Les Exclusifs collection)
Beige (Les Exclusifs collection)
Beige vintage (info)
Chance Eau Tendre
Coromandel (Les Exclusifs collection)
Cuir de Russie
Cuir de Russie (Les Exclusifs collection)
Eau de Cologne (Les Exclusifs collection)
Gardenia (comparison of vintage & Les Exclusifs)
No.18 (Les Exclusifs collection)
No.19
No.19 Poudré
No.46
Pour Monsieur
Sycomore (Les Exclusifs collection)

Chantecaille
Le Jasmin

Chloe
Chloe (distrubuted by Lancaster): old version vs.new edition

Christian Dior
Diorama
Diorella
Diorling
Dior-Dior
Eau Fraiche
Eau Sauvage (short review; info on hedione)
Fahrenheit 32
Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle
Jules
Miss Dior
Patchouli Imperial
Poison (short review)
Poison Hypnotic (short review)
Poison Tendre (short review)
Poison Pure (short review)
Poison Midnight (short review)
Poison Elixirs: Poison Hypnotic Elixir, Poison Pure Elixir, Poison Midnight Elixir (short reviews)

Clinique
Aromatics Elixir

Comme des Garcons
888
Avignon
H&M by Comme des Garcons
Kyoto
Laurel by Monocle x
Man 2(short review)
Ourzazate

Costes
Costes by Hotel Costes

Cote Bastide
Fleurs d'Oranger (short review)

Coty
Chypre de Coty

Crazy Libellule & the Poppies
Encens Mystic

Creative Scentualization
Perfect Veil

Creed
Angelique Encens
Jasmine Emperatrice Eugenie
Royal English Leather
Spice & Wood

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Cimabue
Musk Eau Natural

DelRae parfums
Debut

Deneuve Catherine
Deneuve

Diane von Furstenberg
Diane by Diane von Furstenberg

Different Company, The
Jasmin de Nuit

Diptyque
Do Son

Essence of John Galliano
Jardin Clos
Opone (short review)
Opopanax

Dolce & Gabanna
The One (for women) Eau de Parfum

Donna Karan
Gold

Elie Saab
Elie Saab Le Parfum

Estee Lauder
Azuree original (1969) (short review)
Azuree Soleil
Beautiful Love
Bronze Goddess
Bronze Goddess Soleil 
Pleasures Delight
Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
Wild Elixir
Wood Mystique

Etat Libre d'Orange
Archives 69
Bijou Romantique
Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes
Secretions Magnifiques 

Etro
Gomma
Messe de Minuit
Shaal Nur
Vetiver (short review)
Via Verri

Fath
Iris Gris

Floris
Vetiver

Frederic Malle
Carnal Flower

Dans tes Bras
Iris Poudre
Lys Mediterranee
Musc Ravageur
Vetiver Extraordinaire

Fresh
Pink Jasmine

Gianfranco Ferre
Ferre by Ferre (short review and comparison)

Givenchy
Ange ou demon
Givenchy Gentleman
Vetyver

Gres
Cabochard

Guerlain
Ambre de Guerlain
Angelique Noire
Aqua Allegoria (all fragrances, short reviews)
Aqua Allegoria Bouquet No.1
Arsene Lupin Dandy
Attrape Coeur
Atuana
Chant d'Aromes
Carnal Elixirs/ Elixirs Charnels (Gourmand Coquin, Chypre Fatal, Oriental Brulant)
Chamade
Coque d'Or
Cuir de Russie by Guerlain
Delice de Peau body cream
Cologne du 68
Cologne du Parfumeur
Cruel Gardenia
Cuir Beluga
Derby (short review)
Djedi
Fleur de Feu
Guet Apens
Habit Rouge
Idylle Duet (Rose-Patchouli)
Insolence Eau de parfum
Iris Ganache
Jasminora
Jardins de Bagatelle
La Petite Robe Noire no.2
L'instant Magic
Liu
Mitsouko
Nahema
No.68 Limited edition
Ode
Parure
Pour Troubler
Rose Barbare
Samsara
Shalimar
Shalimar Eau Legere & Shalimar Light
Shalimar Parfum Initial
Sous le Vent
Tonka Imperiale
Vega
Vetiver pour homme and Vetiver Glacee
Vetiver pour elle
Vol de Nuit
Vol de Nuit Evasion

Halston
Halston by Halston

Haramain
Al Nabha (short review)

Haydria Perfumery
Harem Girl
Tainted Love


Hermes
24 Faubourg
Bel Ami (short review)
Doblis
Eau d'Hermes
Elixir des Merveilles
Eau de Merveilles (comparison between concentrations and Elixir)
Iris Ukiyoé (Hermessences)
Kelly Calèche
Poivre Samarkande (Hermessences)
Santal Massoia (Hermessences)
Un Jardin apres la Mousson
Un Jardin sur le Toit
Vanille Galante (Hermessences)
Vetiver Tonka (Hermessences)

Hilde Soliani
Anemone
Bell'Antonio
Conafetto
Iris
Mangiami dopo teatro (short review)
Margerita
Ortensia (short review)
Sipario(short review)
Stecca (short review)
Tulipano
Vecchi Rosetti

Histoires de Parfums
Colette 1873

Honore des Pres
Vamp a NY
Bonte's Bloom, Chaman's Party, Nu Green, Sexy Angelic

Illuminated Perfume Roxana Villa
Hedera Helix
Lyra
To Bee
Q
Notes for all Roxana Villa perfumes

Indult
Tihota

Ineke perfumes
After my Own Heart
Balmy Days and Sundays, Chemical Bonding, Dering Do, Evening edged in Gold (short reviews)
Evening Edged in Gold (short review)

I Profumi di Firenze
Zagara (short review)

Jean Couturier
Coriandre

Jean Louis Scherrer
Jean Louis Scherrer I (green)

Jean Paul Gaultier
Fleur du Male (for men)
Ma Dame

Jo Malone
Honeysuckle and Jasmine
Orange Blossom
Tea Collection: Assam & Grapefruit, Earl Grey & Cucumber, Sweet Milk, Sweet Lemon, & Fresh Mint Leaf

Kenzo
Power

Knize
Knize Ten

Krizia
Teatro alla Scala
K de Krizia

La Maison de la Vanille
Vanille Noire de Mexique

Lancome
Cuir de Lancome re-issue (short review)
Cuir de Lancome re-issue & vintage Revolte (full review & comparison)
Kypre de Lancome
La Valee Bleue
Magnifique
Miracle Forever
O de Lancome
O de l'Orangerie
Poeme

Lanvin
Rumeur
Scandal

L'artisan Parfumeur
Fleur de Narcisse 2006 (Harvest series)
Fleur d'Oranger 2005 (Harvest series)
Havana Vanille
La Haie Fleuri de Hameau
L'Ete en Douce/ Extrait de Songe
Mandarine
Passage d'Enfer
Safran Troublant (short review)
Traversée du Bosphore
Thé pour une Ete
Timbuktu
Vanille Absolument
Vetiver (short review)
Voleur des Roses

Laura Tonnato
Amir

Le Labo
Aldehyde 44 (Dallas exclusive)
AnOther 13
Baie Rose 26
Gaiac 10 (Tokyo exclusive)
Musc 25 (Los Angeles exclusive)

Poivre 23 (London exclusive)
Santal 33
Vanille 44 (Paris exclusive)

Les Nez
L'antimatiere
Let me Play the Lion"
Manoumalia
The Unicorn Spell
Turtle Vetiver Exercise 1
Turtle Vetiver Front

Lolita Lempicka
L de Lempicka

Lorenzo Villoresi
Incensi
Vetiver (short review)

Lubin
Idole (short review)

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
Jardin Blanc
Route du Vetiver (short review)

Marc Jacobs
Amber Splash
Bang
Blush
Daisy
Daisy Eau so Fresh

Maria Candida Gentile
Cinabre
Exultat
Hanbury

Michael Kors
Island Hawaii

Mihov Konstantin
Alice in Wonderland

Miller Harris
Jasmin Vert
L'air de Rien

Missoni
Missoni Aqua

Molinard
Une Histoire de Chypre for Aedes

Montale
Jasmin Full

Montana
Parfum de Peau
Suggestion trio: Eau d'Argent, Eau d'Or, Eau Cuivree

Nasomatto
Absinthe
Duro
Hindu Grass
Narcotic Venus
Silver Musk

Narciso Rodriguez
Essence

Narciso for Her & comparison of all concentrations/versions

Nobile 1942
Anonimo Veneziano

Pontevecchio M for Him
Pontevecchio W for Her

Norma Kamali
Incense

Oscar de la Renta
Esprit d'Oscar
Oscar Violet

Oriflame
Amethyste Fatale
Chiffon

Ormonde Jayne
Frangipani Absolue
Ormonde Woman
Sampaquita
Ta'if (short review)
Tiare
Tolu
Zizan

Paco Rabanne
Calandre
La Nuit de Paco Rabanne

Paloma Picasso
Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum

Patricia de Nicolai
Kiss me Tender
Vetyver (short review)

Parfumerie Generale
Corps et Ames (short review)
Praline de Santal

Parfum d'Empire
Aziyade

Parfums MDCI
Ambre TopKapi
Peche Cardinal

Patou
Adieu Sagesse
Amour Amour
Caline
Chaldee
Cocktail
Colony
Delices
Divine Folie
Joy
L'Heure Attendue
Moment Supreme
Normandie
Que sais-je?
Vacances

Penhaligon's
Amaranthine
Castile
Juniper Sling
Sartorial

Piguet Robert
Baghari (new vs vintage)
Bandit
Calypso (vintage)

Pontevecchio
Anonimo Veneziano
Pontevecchio M for men
Pontevecchio W for women

Prada
Candy by Prada
L'Eau Ambree
Infusion d'Iris
Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger
Infusion d'Homme
Infusion de Tubereuse

Profumo.it/La Via del Profumo
Angelica Water
Chocolate Amber
Frutti Paradisi
Green Blossom
Grezzo d'eleganza
Samurai

Revillon
Detchema

Rochas
Femme
Moustache
Rochas Man

Satellite
A la Figue
Ipanema

Serge Lutens
Arabie (short review)
Bas de Soie
Boxeuses
Clair de Musc
Chypre Rouge
De Profundis
Douce Amere
Encens et Lavande
El Attarine
Fleurs d'Oranger
Jeux de Peau
Iris Silver Mist
L'Eau de Serge Lutens
L'Eau Froide
Nombre Noir
Mandarine Mandarin
Sarrasins
Serge Noire
Tubéreuse Criminelle
Un Lys
Vetiver Oriental
Vitriol d'Oeillet

Shiseido
Inoui

Nombre Noir

Solange
Cosmic

Sonoma Scent Studio
Ambre Noir
Champagne de Bois
Encens Tranquille
Jour Ensoileillee
Fig Tree
Fireside Intense
Lieu de Reves
Nostalgie
Opal
Sienna Musk
To Dream

Sonia Rykiel
Belle en Rykiel
Sonia Rykiel Woman-not for men! (Eau de parfum)

Tauer Perfumes
Carillon pour un Ange
Dark Passage (Tableau de Parfums Snapshots, LE)
Eau d'Epices 
Hyacinth and a Mechanic (unreleased ~"bottle on a journey" project)
Incense Extreme
Incense Rose
L'air du desert marocain
Miriam (Tableau de Parfums line)
Orange Star 
Pentachords: White, Auburn, Verdant
Reverie au Jardin
Rose Vermeille 
Une Rose Chypree
Vetiver Dance
Zeta

Thierry Mugler
Eau de Star
Innocent
Womanity

Tom Ford
Arabian Wood (Private Blend Collection)

Black Orchid
Bois Marocain (Private Blend Collection)
Champaca Absolute (Private Blend collection)
Grey Vetiver (Private Blend Collection)
Japon Noir (Private Blend Collection)
Jasmin Rouge
Italian Cypress (Private Blend Collection)
Santal Blush
Violet Blonde

Tommi Sooni
Tarantella

Trussardi
Bianco
Trussardi Uomo (original) (short review)

Ulric de Varens
Ulric pour Elle

Valentino
Valentina de Valentino

Van Cleef & Arpels
First (short review, info on hedione)

Vera Wang
Look

Vero Profumo
Kiki (extrait)
Onda (exrait)
Rubj (extrait)
Kiki, Onda, Rubj in Eau de Parfum concentration

Viktor & Rolf
Spicebomb

Washington Tremlett
Black Tie (short review)

Yves Saint Laurent
Belle d'Opium

In Love Again
Kouros
L'homme
Opium
Paris
Rive Gauche
Saharienne
Y by Yves Saint Laurent
Yvresse (previously "Champagne")

Chanel No.5 L'Eau: fragrance review & marketing insights

 Chanel No.5 L'Eau, endorsed by the debutantes of the Chinese press, has been hailed as an innovation, but it's really "new old school". And I'm stating this in a positive light. It's a very likeable fragrance by Chanel which retains the spirit of the classic with a very contemporary sensibility of new beginnings and a freshness that differs from the exigencies of the 1920s, a century later. But its composition is not innovative, rather it makes abstract and elegant (in the mathematical sense) what has been passed down from tradition, in order to appear new. 

To wit, the use of aldehyde C8 is an addition that is not particularly modernist, nor is Australian sandalwood or the fractional-distillation ylang ylang that Polge père (Jacques) and Polge fils (Olivier) have been surely contemplating using for a couple of years now. The balancing act of the fragrance lies in judging how the citrusy freshness extends and rejuvenates the rose in the heart. And how an aldehydic fragrance appears non stuffed, nor "old lady perfume" (explained).

The core of No.5 L'Eau is shifted from the densely ylang and perceptible musk chord that dominates the modern varietals of No.5 to the delicate, wisp-like chord of citrus and rose. Almost a skin scent. By definition the concentration is light, ethereal, reflected in the choice of Lily-Rose Depp as the face of the ads. But why an ethereal version with a youth as the face?

It all started in the 80s when then in-house perfumer, the erstwhile Jacques Polge, created the first real "tampering" of the authentic formula to bring it up to par with the powerhouses of the decade of excess. When you have to keep your footing in the market that saw the original typhoon of Dior's Poison and the lead density of detonator of amber waves that was the original Obsession by Calvin Klein, you have to have a classy and elegant formula boosted to its logical limit. Ergo No.5 received a generous helping dose of the sandalwood synthetic Polysantol which effectuated that smooth, lactic boost that was missing from the earlier versions. No.5 Eau de Parfum is possibly not the "truest" No.5 but it is a satisfying edition that is made with great care.

Chanel continued to keep a very tight, and careful, modus operandi on any and all subsequent editions of No.5. I distinctly and fondly recall the No.5 Elixir Sensuelle which boosted the soapier smelling and muskier elements to render a less faithful but still sexy-as-hell body gel. It encapsulated what Coco Chanel herself had meant for No.5 to symbolize: a clean woman that wasn't at odds with her natural scent. The idea that women could be both sexy and not dirty. After all, her inspiration was a famous cocotte friend who smelled "clean", contrary to society women of the times "who smelled dirty" according to the French designer herself. 

The logical extension could only be manifested in something like Chanel No.5 Eau Première. Indeed praised by almost everyone in the industry for adhering to the original concept, without deviating too much, and at the same time bringing forth a new sensibility, Eau Première was critically praised by critics and bloggers, as well as connoisseur wearers only to be daunted at the fragrance counter by a relative indifference in its modern message. Eau Première, fabulous though it was, couldn't address the needs and wants of a youthful audience who knew No.5 from its legendary course and urban fashion clout, but did not feel confident in pulling it off in real time.

Unlike many, maybe even most, flankers by Chanel, such as Coco Mademoiselle and Coco Noir (extending and renewing the fragrance concept of Coco Eau de Parfum), which had little relation to their predecessor, No.5  l'Eau inherited enough of the original's nucleus to serve as a valid reimagining on the original idea.

Related reading on PerfumeShrine:

Coco by Chanel: fragrance review

Chanel No.19 & Heure Exquise: Twin Peaks

On Classifying Chanel No.19 & perfume review 

What's the True Story of Chanel No.5?

Cultural history: Exposition Chanel

Chanel No.5 Through the Years

Chanel No.46: fragrance review & history

I Don't Want to Set the World on Fire: Imaginative Fantasies

Chanel Les Exclusifs Misia: fragrance review [And a collective Chanel Les Exclusifs link.]

Chanel Les Exclusifs Misia: fragrance review

Few toiletry indulgences feel more decadently feminine than owning a fine goose down puff for applying face or body powder. Few rituals feel more delicately ballet-like in their choreographed sequence than the traditional powdering of the body, fresh out of a bath, using said goose down puff with small pat pat pat motions that are as close to caresses as they are to little slaps, both erotic provenance of the demi-mondaines of another time. Misia the fragrance encapsulates in liquid form this graceful dance in Chanel's 15th Les Exclusifs perfume launch, redolent of the retro makeup scents of yesterday.

Emanuelle Beart in Le Temps Retrouvé by Raoul Ruiz via

Chanel via its new head perfumer, Olivier Polge, son of Jacques, only the fourth perfumer in the revered history of the French brand, bows to Guerlain's Après L'Ondée; a composition from the first years of the 20th century based on the ethereal marriage of heliotrope, violet and iris. Yet Chanel's Misia, like the eponymous lady friend of Gabrielle Chanel's it was named after, holds its own ground as well, an outstanding entry for Polge junior regardless of the trodden course. 

Olivier Polge may have excelled in Dior Homme previously, exploring the cocoa dust facets of the iris note in a men's scent, but it is in this feminine composition that he propels the retro facets of iris in their logical apogee, somewhere between the retro cool powder of Love Chloe and the earthy dustiness of Norma by Histoires de Parfums.  The "lipstick note" is after all its own perfumery meme, swirling its tutu years ago with Drole de Rose by L'Artisan Parfumeur and stomping its foot down naming names in Lipstick Rose in the Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle line. (Even Guerlain revisits their own themes, what with Meteorites limited edition fragrance and now with French Kiss.) Chanel's lipsticks account for a huge segment of the brand, so walking down that road felt like a given.

After all, Polge Junior has something of the Midas touch in him; count with me: Flowerbomb, La Vie Est Belle, Mon Jasmin Noir, Burberry The Beat...

The intensely powdery, starchy cloud of orris (the dried rhizome of iris flowers) is at the very heart of Misia with very perceptible cool, sweet violets for "lipstick" (α methyl ionone); in fact the very scent of proper, ladylike lipsticks with their violet-rose aura which separates the teens from the grown ups. While Misia starts with a bittersweet top note reminiscent of time-honored perfumery aubepine-heliotropin chord, the heart of the fragrance is pure cosmetic impression, an archetype of grooming and of la salonnière. Polge used both rose of Grasse and Bulgarian Damask rose for the floral component and a cluster of benzoin resin (caramelic, vanilla plush), tonka beans (hay and almond like) and modern musks for the downy soft drydown.

“I thought of the Palais Garnier in the days of the Ballets Russes: pearls and aigrettes in the women’s hair melding with the scent of red-tinted lips; the sound of musicians tuning their instruments; and the dancers wearing make-up from head-to-toe, warming up behind red velvet curtains. I thought of how to interpret lipstick and powders into a perfume and decided to use violet dressed with rose de Mai and Turkish rose, which trigger memories of lipstick, while the benzoin I added creates a powdery effect, like make-up. It’s very feminine and floral but it’s also sumptuous. The strong violet accord is a new ingredient in the grammar of Chanel”  reveals Polge to Lucia van der Post.

It was Polish muse Misia Sert, née Maria Sofia Olga Zenajda Godebska, a Belle Epoque fixture and the subject of many a Renoir and Bonnard painting, who introduced Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel to many of her subsequent fixtures; Venice, baroque, Les Ballets Russes, Paul Reverdy...
She was also the confidant to whom Chanel poured her heart out to when the latter lost her first true love, Arthur "Boy" Capel, to a car crash.

In a way Misia the fragrance aims to be as emblematic and prophetic of great things ahead as Misia the muse was to Chanel's career. May it prove so!

Chanel Les Exclusifs Misia eau de toilette is offered in 75ml and 200ml bottles with magnetic closure, same as the rest of boutique exclusive Les Exclusifs perfumes.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: 
Best Violet fragrances guide
Powdery & Dry Perfumes
Parfums Lingerie: intimate femininity

Trick or Treat? Top Autumn Fragrances for Any Mood

Which mood is more you? The playful trickster, barefoot and hell-bent on playing mischief to placate the evil Halloween spirits or the mellow pacifist stuffing the mouth with calorific indulgences and the contended smile of "all's good"? Or you can be both, depending on how your day is going. Fragrances can be like that too, you know!
There are scents which are comforting, snuggly like an old favourite jumper when the sky is uninviting, first thing in the morning, and the temperatures are plummeting; a fragrance which smiles at you from within its heavy glass with the sweetness of a kid on a Hallmark card. And there are scents which are devilishly playing tricks on you, requiring that you have either the right attitude or the right weather conditions or the just right outfit (and possibly makeup and jewellery too!) in order to bring out their best; if they want to! But oh, when they do...The latter category might seem like they're ultimately a pain in the butt to have around (what if you look at them in a certain way and they crack from side to side?), but so often they form some of the most satisfying fragrances we possess in our wardrobe. The former... well, they are our fall-back-upon scents and in times like this, this is kinda precious too, don't you agree?
So here is our small selection of "Tricksters and Treaters". Feel free to add yours in the comments!

• THE TRICKSTERS

À Travers le Miroir by Thierry Mugler
A strange tuberose, half-way between carnivorous mentholated flower with bitter touches (reminiscent of a herbal autumn garden) and decaying sweet flesh; yet rather light, if you can imagine that! If you're a man and always wanted to own a tuberose fragrance but found them too Fracas-shouting femme, then this is your bet. Alexis Dadier must be a brave perfumer since he shed tuberose of its black lingerie & berry lipstick to reveal its muscled up (hold the baby oil!) facets. A tuberose of the Tubéreuse Criminelle school of thought!

La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens
Myrrh gum is part of ecclesiastical incense alongside frankincense for millenia. You would expect an oriental, full of resinous mystery, going by the name, right? Lutens goes one better and infuses the bitter ambience of myrrh with candied mandarin rind and citrusy aldehydes which bring this on the upper plane of an airy aldehydic. Somehow it wears lightly but solemnly too and it resembles nothing else on the market. Cool autumn days bring La Myrrhe's attibutes to the fore and it remains amongst my most precious possessions.

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique
It's hard to picture autumn without the imagery of a forest in full regalia, evergreens gaining inches day by day, sepia foliage being trampled underfoot and the promise of fairies in the wings; sorry, behind the mighty oaks, I meant to say... The enchanted forest scentscape of Bernand Chant's masterpiece is among the most challenging, but also among the most complimented and revered, fragrances in the world. If you find difficult to tame this patchouli, rose & oakmoss Godzilla accord in the pure parfum spray, tone it down opting for the Eau de Toilette or Velvet Sheer formulation within the range. Review of Aromatics Elixir on this page and smell-alike on that one.

No.18 by Chanel Les Exclusifs
If you're lucky enough to have this ambrette and rose blend sing on your skin, you're very fortunate. I wish it did on mine and in my memory banks as well. It's probably among the most individual things to come out in the last 10 years and it's quite unique (Although Musc Nomade isn't too far removed in its concept, but the Chanel is more of a subtle perfume than an invisible human aura like the Goutal). Review of No.18 here.

Les Larmes Sacrées de Thèbes by Baccarat
If only because this discontinued limited edition Egyptian beauty will have you scouring the Internet for it but end up paying through the nose (Masochists, please take note! I actually managed to bypass this at a Baccarat boutique when it was available commercially). Somnombulent balsams speek of Egyptian rituals which transport you to a warmer, southern meridian. (Read reviews of all three Baccarat scents for the occasion on this link)



• THE TREATERS

Doblis by Hermès
Doblis is an anomaly: Such a refined composition, the best leather fragrance in the world (and the rarest) just can't be classified in the treaters, where sweet ambers and indulgent gourmands should populate the premises, could it? And yet, Doblis is so silken, so restrained, so smooth, fanning precious flowers onto the most buttery suede, that it transcends into the beatific ecstacy reserved for true excellence. Review of Doblis on this page.

Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange
And the anomalies continue: What is an Etat Libre scent doing in this side of the list? But its welcoming spicy notes of immortelle and ginger and its succulent pumpkin and mandarin heart, set nevertheless in an interesting diorama where one supercedes the other, Like This reads like wise verse by Rumi instead of a Dear Abby column as one would expect; and on top of that it is fronted by the most interesting celebrity to front a fragrance in the last -oh- twenty years...Tilda Swinton! More info on this link.

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille by Guerlain
The smoothness and delicacy of vanilla pods, air-spun here and with a prolonged and rather linear, easy projection of citrus and familiar core. Impossible not to like, impossible to misbehave. More info on this article.

Bois et Musc by Serge Lutens
Autumn can't be autumn without the evocation of woods and this small gem in the Palais Royal Parisian exclusive line by Lutens fulfills the bill admirably, because it highlights both the woody panel of cedar and the skinscent idea of a humane-smelling musk. Simple but very effective and drop-dead sexy. Review of Bois et Musc here.

Coromandel by Chanel Les Exclusifs
Dusty cocoa and refined patchouli to the point that it reads as devoré velvet in shades of deep maroon. Justifiably it's the best-seller in the newer Les Exclusifs (alongside less character-driven, more camel coat & low pumps scent of Beige). Review of Coromandel here.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Comforting scents for when the Going Gets Tough, Falling in Love: Scents & Treats for Fall

Photography by Fred Boissonas in early 20th century Greece: a) Edessa 1908 and b) Kastoria Kleisoura manor 1911.