Omonde Jayne Vanille Aube fragrance review

 

Vanilla Aube by Ormonde Jayne is lovely: All the colors of the sun melding into each other, producing something soft and caressing like a feathery cloud. An atypical vanilla, non-sweet, non-foodie, though gourmand in structure, it emphasizes the woody, lightly spicy (cardamom, pepper) and musky-soft elements to project as a fluffy cashmere shawl on naked shoulders. 

borrowed via

Vanilla Aube is the smoothest, most caressing non-sweet vanilla I have worn lately. With a progression from initially lightly spiced, tinkered woody-musky fluff into a suede-like softness that embraces you like a cloud when standing atop a hill, this is an atypical vanilla that is very refined and sophisticated, following in the footsteps of excellence that the Ormonde Jayne brand has paved. 

 The thing is that Vanilla Aube is the smoothest, most caressing non-sweet vanilla I have worn lately. With a progression from initially lightly spiced, tinkered woody-musky fluff into a suede-like softness that embraces you like a cloud when standing atop a hill, this is an atypical vanilla that is very refined and sophisticated, following in the footsteps of excellence that the Ormonde Jayne brand has paved. Upon wearing it, spraying on skin, on fabric and studying its tenacity (wow, soft but there for days) it reminds me of the seminal work of Bvlgari Black by Annick Menardo (now discontinued) as well as Cuir Béluga by Guerlain. Those fragrances extrapolated coming trends with the finesse of their creators; steps clothed in silk slippers, walking under an atrium at dawn someplace warm. The success of Babycat by YSL was pre-emptied by the sleeping success of those two scents. Sleeping as in commercial terms, but not artistic. And yet Vanilla Aube goes even beyond, making it totally in sync with today's sensibilities, without resorting to the yawp of contemporary amberwood-centric fragrances, especially those directed at men. It remains resolutely unisex with a plush suede feeling of autumnal caress, the cool factor of a luxurious jacket in buttery softness, the sensuality of a wrap on bare shoulders.

 Ormonde Jayne released their new vanilla fragrance into its Four Corners Reimagined Collection on September 8, 2026 . This fragrance was previously launched in September 2025 and has since been renamed Vanille Aube. The formula and notes are unchanged, however, from the previous Vanille Mistral and it is still the same gourmand-spicy vanilla fragrance created by perfumer Elodie Bernard with collaboration by Ormonde Jayne founder, Linda Pilkington.

Nostalgia is the kitschiest sentiment. Or is it?

Young and older people alike love to reminiscence about things they loved in the turmoil of puberty or their formative years, from La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme to Tobacco Vanille Tom Ford via Coco Mademoiselle Chanel or Jungle Gardenia and White Shoulders; I suppose it gives us a sense of nostalgia, the strange excitement of reliving a period of our lives when we were not so sure of certain things, innocent enough that we had faith, before life bore its heavy blows crushing our dreams.

via

 Whether it was something cheap, brash or immature (Victoria's Secret body sprays perhaps?) does not matter; the memory is there and the hold it has over our hearts reads like the delicious thrill we feel at the borderline segregating damnation from redemption. 

 And because it is such a thin razor's edge, we continue our lives with a precarious, perverse pleasure derived from seeking for the elements we loved in every subsequent scent to be met, almost like a golden standard against which we judge everything that follows; the Mr.Darcy against which everyone else pales, the Heathcliff whose darkness embodies our secret yearnings, yearnings we have buried and mourned only on the surface. 

 Yes, all too frequently the first fragrances we have loved remain our loves throughout our lives, unless perfume Nemesis -in the guise of allergens restrictions or business behemoths pennies-pinching- shutters the gilded foil and makes them unrecognizable. But what about fragrances we like from the get-go which are new and fresh and so novel? Fragrances which grab us by the lapels and with golden retriever puppy eyes beg us to love them back? Sometimes they succeed and we love them instantly. Which are they? Mine has always been Opium YSL, the pillar of memory, the apex of heart-twinging. And then others too, my mom's Dioressence and Cabochard, her Bourjois Soir de Paris. The introduction of niche via Serge Lutens and L' Artisan Parfumeur. And the snowball that followed. 

 The L'Artisan was among my first incense purchases and it still remains a firm favorite for summer-wear (not that it does not shine in winter equally well). Passage d'Enfer L'Artisan Parfumeur gives me the eerie feeling of a trance-like session, lost in the spiritual reveries of a body ritualistically sprayed with all the lilies of the field. It balances on the edge of sanity sometimes, clean (thanks to the white musk) but mysterious at once, ethereal yet subtly odd, like an emo-goth type dressed in head-to-toe white. Fleurs d'Oranger Serge Lutens is not too old, not too young, just perfect in that middle ground between contemporary and traditional, a potent yet fresh (!) mix of lush orange blossom and insinuating tuberose, likened to a heaving bosom. A true compliment getter too! I was stung by a bee, outside a graveyard, wearing this scent, one fateful Easter, and forever since I subconsciously seek to touch the sting spot whenever I wear it.... 

There are so many, really. Please share yours in the comments.

New Fragrant Desires

 Immersed as I've been in one capacity or another (student, teacher) in the academic division of the year, putting September 1st as the signpost of an annual rebirth, and rebaptizing myself into the holy waters of knowledge, so to speak, autumn is my favorite time of the year. Not only is the feeling of organizing new schedules, new modes of the everyday, new stimuli to engage my mental capabilities, but it's also the perfect backdrop for fragrance testing and wearing. After the torpor of the heatwave in the city, the long swims of vacation when fragrance is not really necessary, and the languor of serene and lazy-smelling fragrances of holidays, this period is rejuvenating olfactorily. I therefore set out with a renewed interest in the afición! 

Fragrances old and new which caught my eye lately

Korres Vetiver Root

Recently I retried this on my skin and on the sleeves of my light windbreaker. Two days later I was still smelling it going strong, in that nevertheless mannered way of solid persistence that never overextends its welcome. Impressive. Previously circulating as Vetiver root, Green tea, Cedarwood -don't you just love it when they put the notes on the bottle- it combines the lavender/amber chord we so associate with good ol' masculine cleanliness and grooming. A combination I find irresistible myself. And one which I also want to borrow. A bottle of this vetiver fragrance is going on my To Buy list. 

Dana Tabu

No treatise or fragrance review is necessary for this bold vintage Tabu by Dana scent. The patchouli-carnation chord is reverberating in my mind. Its warmth and come hither is calling me for winter ahead. I had this and I want it back again. I definitely want to find the older version in the violin bottle, however, preferably a smaller size in order to savor. 

Milano Fragranze Basilica

For a genre so populated with specimens of varying intensity and adherence to try frankincense oil, which is very different from the impression of incense as a general notion, Basilica is a fragrance that manages to mingle the essence of the oil with the ambience of the liturgical place where said oil is meant to be used. In short, the temple congregation, a human made atmosphere, which however seems to transport you above. The note of snuffed out candles is lovely. The inspiration behind the fragrance is the Basilica di Sant' Ambrogio in Milan, a roman architecture marvel.  

Shanghai Tang Golden Lily

I've got this on my list for some years now and it's never crossed my path since its first sampling. I wonder why I haven't searched for it more energetically as I truly appreciate its floral spicy message so well. Brand scarcity and its retro ambience make it a rarity in fragrance communities, which narrows down its swapping and reselling potential, I guess. It's a clarity and balance feat, a beauty. We need these in late autumn, don't we. 

pic borrowed from fashion for lunch

At the Moment: October 2026

 

photo borrowed via pinterest

It seems like it's been ages since I last compiled an AT THE MOMENT post. Indeed it has. Wow how time flies. Without further ado my current list of things occupying my everyday these past few days and weeks. Share your current obsessions, hobbies and tricks in the comments section below the post. 

[This post contains a few select Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase something through these links I might make a tiny commission to upkeep this blog.]

READING

I started Labyrinth, The Art of Decision Making by Pawel Motyl, a modern classic which takes a seemingly self-help title and addresses historical moments when the decision making made or ruined major sociopolitical events. Motyl digs into the series of decisions that led to some of the modern world’s most dramatic events: from the Cuban missile crisis to the 1996 Mount Everest climbing disaster; from the Apollo 13 rescue mission to the ill-fated Daimler–Chrysler merger. Along the way, he reveals 16 rules for effective decision-making that will challenge pre-existing beliefs, and change one's outlook forever.

 

It is a fascinating read, and I admit I picked it up knowing I am inept at decision making, so it is essentially eye-opening to see history in the making AND grasp how too much hesitation is just as bad a decision as any.  which you can find HERE for Kindle and tablets. 

WEARING

It's been rather hot in Athens these past few weeks, nothing really bad, but not quite autumnal either, minus the occasional rain. Therefore I have again resorted to my very light windbreaker jackets for rain deterance mostly; generally more flimsy than a trench coat, easier to carry in arm if bothersome. This style by SaphiRose is especially becoming, and the light color gives a visual jolt, instead of the dreary greiges. It also doesn't contain harmful chemicals, as per the requirements of the maker. 

borrowed via 

PLAYING WITH

I have long held the view that makeup is playthings for grown girls and I'm sure lots of women the world over agree with me. The influx of happily faced women painting their faces a million ways possible and having fun starting anew every day on a gazillion of channels and reels proves that I'm right. And of course that's nothing new I'm saying. Therefore, recognizing that in difficult time we play with war paint -see what I did there- I'm currently enthused with the KIKO MILANO long-lasting eyeshadow sticks. Back when I was way younger I used to snub eyeshadow sticks and shadows-built-into-pencils; maybe because I have witnessed many middle-aged women using them. Who knows. Now that I'm a middle-aged women myself I found a newly minted appreciation for them. These are beautiful, softly shimmery when you need it and provided your eyelids are not crepey -thankfully mine are not- and in tenacious shades of a 24-hour duration. Not that you'd keep them on your eyes that long, but you know what I mean. I especially like Slate Grey which makes a contrast with my cool-shaded brown eyes. The next shade to try is Golden Taupe 38 which, judging by the Pinterest photos, looks really a-ma-zing...

RESEARCHING

Deep into the archives of antiquity the plethora of information on perfuming and scenting objects are fascinating to follow. Hopefully this will become the subject of an article with practical purposes. More to come and my lips are sealed. 

In the interim I'm writing a dedicated article for Fragrantica on Colombian perfumery. Not the historical period as in pre-Colombian, but of the country. Exciting things to come. 

Santa Maria Novella Alba di Seoul- fragrance review

 

Smoky is a loaded concept, because so often it falls into one of either styles: the incense-y smoke that recalls woody and resinous scents of piety and zen like Avignon, or the dense feel of the campfire like Lonestar Memories or the fragrances by Beaufort. These both lend themselves to autumn, of course, but we aim to provide a middle-ground between seasons, for which Alba di Seoul feels exceptionally well-matched. 

via

 There is something undeniably familiar to me in Alba di Seoul and I managed to track it in the vintage version of Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels, a wonderful fragrance in the old-school-mold of masculines, with a mossy background. I remember the days I adored it on my beloved and recall the days I borrowed it in the desire to extend those memories. In Alba di Seoul the citrusy, botanical and mossy elements manage to project light, bright and unfazed by the warmth, still lending a soupçon of darkness for the days to come, just like in Tsar, though they do not smell identical by any stretch of the imagination (if only...). It is the melding of light spice (nutmeg) with the tightly woven elements of wood, leathery tones, green violet leaves with their acrid, sharp and jolting feel, and plush patchouli with just a warm tinge of musk which bring on the ambience which I love. Despite the word Alba meaning dawn in Italian, the feel in Alba in Seoul is that of a cloudy afternoon when the sun is there but hidden behind the trees and you savour the warmth on the skin but also feel a light chill to come. 

It's a complex feeling of tactile sensations which I personally enjoy very much any time of the year, but especially in the first days of autumn when I'm feeling particularly energized. Criminally unsung, delightfully unique if you like things no one else has discovered...yet.