Wednesday, October 7, 2026

Karmacoma by Anomalia Paris- Bittersweet Suede Embracing Vanilla Pods

 Karmacoma by Anomalia Paris: A divorce from everything you used to call “normal” — from habits, permission, and the version of you that learned to behave seems like the perfect motto for entering autumn and the new academic year with flair. Karmacoma is inspired by the aesthetic of a blank canvas, where we boldly script our dazzling and magnificent future. This is also the autumn I'm researching vanilla, it seems, and although I tried this during the warmer months, as the weather cools down, it translates as the perfect cozy fragrance to warm my way into the rainy season. 

karmacoma by anomalia paris fragrance review perfumeshrine


The delightful element is its leathery top note, composed by Sidonie Lancesseur as a bittersweet element to enhance the saffron note. A Greek saffron note, no less, among the top quality ingredients in the world, small production extracted by hand. The powdery effect of vanilla and musk is further enhanced by a peppery, spicy garland that ebbs and flows. Its effect on the wearer is what the French call "troublant," which means "intriguing" in the best possible sense. Who could have thought a vanilla would be so nuanced?

Tuesday, October 6, 2026

On Vanilla; Colombian and Otherwise

 Colombia, Vanilla’s New Production Hub in the World

A speech given during the Barcelona Perfumery Congress last year by Ricardo Ramos, Independent Perfumer of Colombian Origin based in Granada/Spain.

"With an estimation of more than 4300 species of orchids, Colombia is a country with a major diversity of this beautiful botanical species in the world, having more than its 35% native from Colombian territory. The existence of Vanilla in Colombian territory has been ancestrally known among farmers and indigenous communities, being used by a few expert coffee farmers in their coffee plantations, adding it to the coffee beans as an aromatic, sophisticated twist. And among indigenous communities as well, as a tool for seduction, for scenting their clothing, and for making fragrant necklaces (Otapa) and garlands to attract lovers, as mentioned by the Jesuit monks in the 17th Century.

"Some of the very first well-documented vanilla species in Colombia date from The Royal Botanical Expedition to New Granada headed by José Celestino Mutis between 1783 and 1816, and years after that, the British Colonel J.P. Hamilton documented in his “Travels through the interior provinces of Colombia” published in 1827, the existence of abundant fragrant Vanilla species along the
Magdalena and the Cauca River basins. Later, during the nineteenth century, Colombian, North American, and Spaniard botanists recorded the existence of vanilla species in the provinces of Valle, Cauca, Cundinamarca, Tolima, and Huila.
During the XX Century, with the development and commercialization of synthetic Vanilla, the interest in natural Vanilla progressively disappeared, allowing the vanilla plants to be destroyed, becoming a product for very local use in countless communities.
Recently, in the current XXI Century, due to the high demand for vanilla in the world and the difficulty of its production and exploitation, interest in wild vanilla has been reborn in Colombia, with recent studies on the species surviving in the Pacific and Amazonian areas.

"The Universidad Nacional of Colombia (UNAL) started a project in 2015, doing research about the spices in the Pacific area,
starting from the shore coast of the Cauca province up to the coast shores in the Choco province, documenting the existence of nine native vanilla species, including the most commercial in the world: Vanilla Planifolia, initially known exclusively from Mexican territory. The study highlighted the existence of hybrid species with outstanding and rare olfactory profiles, which could be highly valued in the global food and cosmetics industries. In the Colombian Pacific, factors like natural pollination, the abundance of water, and the humid climate encourage its growth, resulting in the first flowers after a year and eight months, which means 2.5 years in total for having fruits. This is a shorter period compared to productions in Mexico, Madagascar, and China, because in those regions they must wait up to three years to have the first blooming and nine more months for the first fruits.

In recent years, in the Cauca Valley region, the Pontificia Universidad Javeriana in Cali and the Universidad Nacional de Colombia, Palmira and Medellín Campuses, have increased the study of the vanilla orchid across biodiversity, agroecology, conservation, and sustainable use. Currently, thanks to the agreement signed with SWISSAID ( Swiss Foundation for Development Cooperation) Colombia, the UNAL Medellín Headquarters began research to study the insects associated with vanilla cultivation in Bahía Solano, where SWISSAID started a project to stimulate vanilla as a local development product that generates income for indigenous and Afro-descendant communities, through training on effective crop management. The project, which began in 2016 with 18 producers in the area, today has more than 200 farmers and has materialized in the community company Aromas y Sabores, which carries out the entire process of purchasing, collecting, curing, and marketing vanilla."


inkera by ricardo ramos perfumeshrine



Inkera, the latest creation by Colombian perfumer Ricardo Ramos, is therefore an ode to the relationship between vanilla and the Indigenous and Afro-descendant communities of the Colombian Pacific, as well as a vehicle for introducing Colombian vanilla to the world.

Inkera is the first perfume to feature Colombian vanilla in its formulation, specifically from the Chocó region, home to *Vanilla planifolia* agroforestry crops tended by ancestral Emberá communities and Afro-descendant families.

In addition to vanilla, the fragrance features a *Viche* liquor accord, a traditional artisanal spirit from Colombian Pacific communities made from fermented green sugarcane juice. Historically used as a medicinal tonic for stomach ailments and snakebites, *Viche* lends the fragrance green, jungle-like tones, the sweetness of cane honey, and mineral and subtle marine nuances. Another ingredient making its perfumery debut in Inkera is Pipilongo (*Piper tuberculatum*), an ancestral long pepper also native to the Colombian Pacific; it offers sparkling nuances reminiscent of petitgrain with woody depth, alongside a warm, zesty, spicy heat. 

Wednesday, July 15, 2026

Fragrances that Smell Like Cosmetics: an Experimental List

The tender, sometimes playful associations of violet and iris-powdery references account for the popularity of several sweet florals in the market, especially when coupled with the intensely feminine note of roses producing an almost "makeup" vanity-table effect. Here is an experimental list of fragrances that reference cosmetics, especially face powder and retro lipstick, in their scent. 

Fragrances that Smell like Cosmetics a List
generative AI borrowed via Pinterest


Cosmetics-smelling Fragrances You Might Try (the list is merely a fraction of what is available):

Accordo Viola by L' Erbolario

Viole Nere by Meo Fusciuni

Blanc Violette by Histoires de Parfums

Irresistible Nude Velvet by Givenchy

Putain des Palaces by Histoires de Parfums

Love, Chloé by Chloé or its dupes, since it's been discontinued

Drôle de Rose by L'Artisan Parfumeur (ditto)

Météorites by Guerlain (the original vintage creation, found in secondary market)

Après L'Ondée by Guerlain

Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle

Iris Eau de Parfum by Molinard

Kenzo Flower by Kenzo

Fleurs d'Ombre Violette – Menthe by Jean-Charles Brosseau

Balenciaga Paris L'Essence by Balenciaga (also in the secondary market as it's been discontinued)

Violet Blonde by Tom Ford (ditto)

Violette Precieuse by Caron

Violette Fumée by Mona di Orio

Citizen Queen by Juliette Has A Gun 

Insolence Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

L'instant Magic Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

True Love by Elizabeth Arden

Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan

Kenzoki Rice Steam Sensual by Kenzo

Sophistique by Mark

Hush Hush from 2160 Tuesdays

Tuesday, July 14, 2026

The Maternal History Behind Lanvin's Arpege Perfume

Women in the past especially were mentally tied with a sort of femininity that deviated at times from the sensible, non-glamorous, the image of the caretaker. You imagine a highly strung classy woman that hides her woes behind an immaculate veneer; perfectly coiffed & manicured, wearing delightfully constructed, tailored clothes and maybe a string of pearls. Male filmmakers of the 1940s tended to show this powerwoman stereotype having a meltdown at some point in the plot, perhaps a subtle nod to "punishment" for undertaking more than they should. Pamela Robertson explains that Mildred Pierce exposes this contradiction of female success and societal expectations, "because Mildred's success conflicts with the postwar ideology that demands that women give up their careers." Perfume choice becomes a symbol for that.


  The designer Jeanne Lanvin met her future husband, le Conte Emilio di Pietro, at the Longchamp horse races and would have her daughter Marguerite in 1897. The little girl has been immortalized through the design of the iconic black boule bottle of Arpège. Her nickname was Ririte, but she has been referred to as Marie-Blanche ever since 1920, and she was the inspiration for the many fabulous designs her mother mottos which were envied all over Paris and created the fervent desire to emulate for the daughters of many well-to-do ladies of the higher society. The step from daughters to mothers is a small one and Jeanne would become a legendary couturier in no time! Marie-Blanche would also be the inspiration for her mother's most enduring perfume, Arpège, designed for the 30th birthday of Jeanne's beloved daughter and inspired by Marie-Blanche's musical-referencing comment upon smelling the first mod of the composition: "It smells like an arpeggio would."


  The perfume formula was composed by perfumers Paul Vacher and André Fraysse, while the design of the mother dressing the daughter by Paul Iribe pictured on the bottle has become a modern icon. It's an irony that the passionate love the mother had for her daughter Marguerite would end up drawing them apart. An aldehydic whisper of pure flowers, not very far removed from Chanel No.5 eau de toilette, yet more radiant and effervescent than seducing, maybe thanks to mental associations, the Lanvin fragrance is a treaure trove of stories and wonders. 


  Photos of vintage print advertisements found on Ebay and borrowed for educational purposes only.

Monday, July 13, 2026

Art & Olfaction Awards 2026: The Experimental Scent Summit Where I Presented ScentDia

 

The Experimental Scent Summit (ESS) is presented as part of an ongoing collaboration between Los Angeles-based The Institute for Art and Olfaction and Berlin-based Smell Lab. The Experimental Scent Summit (whose speakers and subjects of 2026 were presented in the official page) is an annual gathering designed to build community and learning in creative practices with scent. As a rule, through presentations, academic and research practitioners share experimental work in an open and unrestrained environment that facilitates collaboration and inquiry. It is a non-profit community event that brought together researchers to share experimental and academic work on scent in an informal, open setting at the beautiful venue of Impact HUB Athens,right in the city center of Athens, below the Acropolis. 

ESS 2026 was co-curated this year by Julianne Lee, Minetta Rogers, and Saskia Wilson-Brown for the Institute for Art and Olfaction, and Klara Ravat for Smell Lab, and the presentations ranged from research findings in the fields of olfaction, history, culture, botany, sound science, and other related academic disciplines; performances and conversations that inspire new ways of thinking about and working with scent. 

the presenters for ScentDia social robotics

   SCENT DIA, the Olfactory Turn in Social Robotics, an interdisciplinary project uniting robotics, philosophy and olfactory art, which was introduced by me (Elena Vosnaki), followed by the more in-depth analysis by Professor of Logic and Science of Philosophy Luisa Damiano and Manos Gerakinis of Manos Gerakinis Parfums. Working with Mari Velonaki, who developed the robot as the 3rd in line in her Diamandini Robotic Series at the University of New South Wales in Australia, and collaborating with manufacturing chemical plant Vioryl S.A., they translated the social cues of the first social robot into the emission of discernible scent, emitted at the discretion of artificial intelligence in correspondence to human cues! 

Art & Olfaction Awards 2026 the experimental scent summit where Elena Vosnaki presented ScentDia


Social robots, as we explained, are robots able to communicate through social cues and in social contexts, through emotional expressions, language, and posture, and now for the first time through scent corresponding to human interaction. Thanks to SCENTDIA's revolutionary technological innovation, the audience was informed about the new concept of the "social robot" as a "social connector," which opens new perspectives in the contexts in which such technology finds application, such as health care, education, and personal support, marketing, and entertainment. All in all, a very stimulating and enjoyable experience. To quote the Institute of Art & Olfaction's motto as my closing line, "Be kind, be cool, be honest, have fun."

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