Friday, July 8, 2022

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea: fragrance review & story

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea is one of Francis Kurkjian's timeless success stories, which built his reputation for effortless light diaphanous fragrances, in turn setting the record for his own Maison Francis Kurkdjian creations that sparkle and trail like gauze in the morning sun. Yet Green Tea is a case where one perfumer imitates another. 

 pic via pinterest

The sophisticated and intellectual Jean Claude Ellena created L'Eau Parfumée first as a room spray for Bvlgari boutiques in Rome in the 1990s, and as a stand alone fragrance around the world later. He came up with it while playing with Iso E Super and jasmine chords, creating an original accord that he called "green tea." He states so in his writings, that he chose the name because he was impressed by the Japanese green tea ceremony. He wanted to recreate that feeling of comforting serenity, that precious luxury, the one of seemingly endless time. Or at the very least of meaningful time. He was mindful before mindfulness was a thing. 

Ozonic with a green bamboo note, and lemon accords that do not bring images of classic Eau de Cologne, thanks to its green grassy shade, Green Tea takes you because of its name in the highlands of Darjeeling and Sikkim, on the backs of elephants. It perfectly makes me at once calm down and feel like the draining energy of intense heat is not a worrisome burden anymore. There is the promise of spice and botanical stuff but it's just that – a hint, a soupçon of a taunt, never fully materialized. It remains cool and collected, not passionate.

Delicate, fresh, drumming like light percussion, airy and tonic, Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden is welcome coolness in the heat, which is much appreciated for casual occasions and daytime. But if you're the type of person to eschew evening fragrances in the summer months, this could easily fit in your wardrobe.

It's also a startlingly good steal on online stores, demanding very little. 

Fragrance notes for Elizabeth Arden Green Tea:

Top notes are Lemon, Bergamot, Mint, Orange Peel and Rhubarb

Middle notes are Jasmine, Oakmoss, Fennel, Musk, Carnation and White Amber

Base notes are Green Tea, Jasmine, Oakmoss, Musk, Celery Seeds, Caraway, Cloves and Amber

Wednesday, June 8, 2022

Nicolai Parfumeur Createur Le Temps d'une Fete: fragrance review


There are not as many fragrances with a leading narcissus note, as I would wish, and some of the best have been discontinued, for example, Le Temps d’Une Fête Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur and Ostara Penhaligon's. Patricia de Nicolaï's Le Temps d'une Fête is the perfect narcissus-ladden green floral to evoke spring, full of crushed leaves and grass; a fragrance so beautiful and cheerful that it will make you spin around and around humming Mendelssohn's Spring Song even when taking down the Christmas decorations.

It does bring on a little chill from the frost of March. It's the bitter, sharp synergy of galbanum and oakmoss; they have a sobering effect on the narcotic aura of the narcissus/jonquil and hyacinth heart.

 photo via Pinterest from

It is the promise of spring-time in this transitory phase in which the first buds are tentatively raising their heads beneath the still cold air, which is enough to have us on pins and needles for the full blown effect of spring's arrival. It's usually then a little spring-like fragrance is very much desired — nay, craved — when the last woolies of the winter season are finally getting their last rites, so to speak, like Le Temps d'une Fête. And when it comes...cause of celebration! 

Le Temps d'une Fête is like that, exactly. The joy of living rendered through natural paint strokes of the most delicate and precious watercolors. A masterpiece of dexterity and finesse

Alas, the brand discontinued it long ago. I do hope they bring it back from the dead in a rite of eternal spring!


Roger & Gallet Bois d'Orange: fragrance review

 The house of Roger & Gallet presented Bois d'Orange built from fresh accords of citruses and the warm nuances and strength of wood several years ago, but it's still in production, perfect for warmer weather. The fragrance invites for a long and pleasant walk in the garden of Andalusia, among alleys of fragrant oranges. It's the vibrant and sunny freshness of leaves, combined with orange blossom and the scent of fruits to regenerate the aura and give pleasure to each user.

It was the scent I turned to after I gave birth, mostly using the luxurious soaps and shower gel formulations.

The top notes of Bois d'Orange introduce mandarin, basil, and lemon verbena, a fresh and encouraging scent of citrusy-green aromas. The heart brings us orange blossom and neroli, while the base adds strong and warm amber, rosewood, and cedar.

It's hard to parse the scent into all those notes and components; there is a uniformity of feel-good vibes which are derived by the stalwart luminosity of the neroli and verbena. It only opens up on warmer days, giving a more woody aspect in cold weather, but when the sun is high in the sky it blooms and reveals its happy facets that come tumbling down from a bowl of just-picked fruit someplace warm and casual. No wonder I sought this scent when I was at my most vulnerable.

The fragrance is available in the characteristic packaging of the house of Roger & Gallet. Besides the fragrance Bois d'Orange, an accompanying body care line with the same aromas was introduced. It includes luxurious soaps, which made this house famous.


This woody aromatic fragrance was created for women as well as for men and I find no fault with either wearing it on any occasion that calls for some optimism and feeling good about oneself.

Bois d'Orange originally launched in 2009 and continues to be in production after all these years.

 The finer, nonalcoholic Eau Parfumée version can be worn in the sun, making it perfect for summer. It's part of the Eaux Parfumées line in frosted glass bottles.

Please note there is also an edition with golden shimmer, the Bois d'Orange Eau Sublime Or, but this is a different interpretation with a lactonic component reminiscent of suntan lotion, with salicylates enhancing the floral facet. It's obviously made for summertime with the idea that some golden shimmer enhances one's tan. This one would be more appreciated by the ladies, I presume.

This Month's Popular Posts on Perfume Shrine