Thursday, April 15, 2010

Andy Tauer Orange Star: fragrance review & draw

The newest Andy Tauer fragrance, Orange Star, is based on his previous soap-making for Christmas-giving for which he produced Mandarins Ambrées, a lovely, yummy concoction of mandarin and clementine essences steeped into ambregris tincture (or so it seemed to me). Rest assured that if you liked that soap (I did), you'll love the fragrance too!

Andy had written on his blog about that soap back in November 2007: "It took me a while and quite some fiddling around to get this ambergris hint, the little woody vibrant touch that I wanted to be there, lifting the green mandarins without transforming the bathroom into Givaudan’s Okoumal* production facility. In a sense, the ambergris line shall bring out the colours, point the nose to a mandarin that is fresh, green, clean.Les Mandarines ambrées have survived an extensive bathroom test for weeks in Zurich, they pleased the eye and the nose and the skin as well."

*Okoumal is a Givaudan aroma-chemical smelling ambery and fresh with powdery and mushroom-y nuances.

Orange Star , the fragrance which transforms that concept into a proper, complex fragrance, is an intensely sunny, citrusy (but never cologne-y) composition with lots of coumarinic tonka beans for warmth and comfort, fanning out the cheery glow of the fruits. The tenacity of ambregris is skin-like, a wee bit dry under the natural sweetness of the hesperides, but what I call the coup de grace is the inclusion of a fine spicy note (halg peppery, half clove-y) which makes the whole quite piquant instead of soapy blah. There's some floral element in there (orange blossom, violet, some lily-ofthe-valley for sudsy) but it's never overshadowing the main character. The base material, Ambreine, derived from cistus labdanum, is truly beautiful (but more on to that later, I'm promising you something spectacular!) In all, recognisably Tauer, high naturals ratio, good tenacity.

Spraying vs. dabbing makes for an expansive experience, the spicy note ringing truer, the mandarin juice dribbling more succulent.

Official notes for Andy Tauer Orange Star:
Head: Fresh citrus accord with mandarines and clementines
Heart: Juicy lemongrass, clean orange flowers
Body: Rich ambergris base with tonka beans and hints of vanilla


The best bit is that the bottle and presentation box looks truly gorgeous in deep cobalt blue (as far as I can see from the pictures and from the Milan exhibition) and is a definite redemption for the previous packaging that has been criticized as "cheap-looking" in the past (Le Maroc pour Elle, I'm looking at you!) As Tauer's business has flourished, going from one success to another, so did the budget and the new design showcases we have to deal with an artifact that has the exterior presentation it deserves. Bravo!

For our readers Tauer has provided a generous deluxe sample for a lucky reader. Andy will be at the Scent Bar (Luckyscent's brick and mortar store in LA) on Saturday 17th from 1-4 p.m , but you have your chance to try it out for yourself even if you can't make it to Los Angeles! Please state your interest in the comments. Draw will be open till Sunday 18th midnight. Draw is now closed, thank you for participating!
Samples and pre-orders for bottles will begin sometime before May 1, 2010 at Luckyscent

In the interests of full disclosure, I was provided with two samples directly from Tauer Perfumes: one for myself, one for the giveaway.
Painting Swimmer, 1998, by Colette Calascione via coilhouse.net

115 comments:

  1. I always look forward to Andy's "Xmas soap ", LOL ;-)

    At the risk of being greedy, may I enter ?

    Hoping your respite restored the spirit and the body, dear Hellenic sister .

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  2. It it's Tauer, I will always want to enter. This sounds wonderful and knowing most of other Tauer creations, I just know I won't be disappointed whenever I get the chance to try it.

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  3. Ooh, I am so excited to try this. The spicy note sounds awesome with the hesperides. Thanks so much!

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  4. I am so excited about Andy's new fragrance..I can't wait to try it. I am sure it will be wonderful..He is so generous, he deserves every success..

    Please enter me in the drawing. Thanks..

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  5. maria14:17

    I was waiting for it since I heard about it, around Christmas.
    Please enter me in the draw!

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  6. I'm staying true to my cheap self and cadging a Tauer on yet another blog. Hope it's you who brings me luck dear E! :-)
    Have you gotten round to trying that Lauder for men, btw?

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  7. Another generous Tauer giveaway! How lovely of him.

    I have avoided entering drawings elsewhere because I was concerned over the orange and orange blossom, which often seem either soapy or cologne-y. (I really dislike cologne and prefer my herbal greens separate from citrus!) But since you say it's NOT cologney, and has a beautiful labdanum note, now I'm interested.
    Please include me in the draw, and thanks very much for the review as well as the opportunity.

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  8. I've been dying to try Orange Star for quite a while now, so please enter me! It sounds like something I could fall utterly in love with.

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  9. Damn that man is generous! As if his fans couldn't love him more? Enter me for sure, this juice sounds amazing for summers end

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  10. Chris G14:59

    Oh, to be in LA and meet the genius in person!!!! Since I can't be there, please enter me in the draw. Thanks!
    Chris G

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  11. Hmmm. Not huge with the orange, but the idea of combining it with the ambergris is pretty compelling. Like the homemade pomanders we did as kids with cloves poked into oranges -- that tart/spicy combination. Please enter me in the draw!

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  12. It sounds like a beautiful thing. Please enter me in the draw. AT is genius and generous. Thank you.

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  13. I'm with Ines - if it's a Tauer then I'm in the draw!

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  14. kathleen15:14

    I would love to try this fragrance. Please enter me in the draw.

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  15. This sounds amazing! I would love to try this for myself.... Please enter me in the draw!

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  16. Thanks for the heads up: this sounds very intriguing...please enter me in the draw! Andy Tauer's creations have never disappointed so far. ^_^

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  17. I'm so curious about this Tauer fragrance. Since I haven't got a chance to try any of his perfumes, i will be happy to be included in the draw.

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  18. Anonymous15:43

    Orange Star sounds wonderful! Please enter me into the draw. Thanks for the opportunity.

    Dagney

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  19. cheiroso15:44

    I love orange. And I've been wanted to try a Tauer fragrance for awhile. And to think some people think the "soapy" smell has no place in perfume.

    Please enter me in the drawing.

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  20. Nancy C.15:48

    Yes, please! Enter me in the drawing. It sounds lovely.

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  21. Darling Ida,

    how are you honey? Long time incommunicado, sorry about that, just burdened under tasks, deadlines, you name it (lots of writing)

    Of course you may and it's yummy!

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  22. Ines,

    good luck! It's pretty good! Not L'air du desert, but very nice indeed.

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  23. Tara,

    it definitely helps he's such a decent human being. The scents are very well crafted too, so yup on the deserving!

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  24. Maria,

    you're in, it's very wearable!

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  25. Dusan,

    oh, no, not cheap at all. These are opportunities to share (not to mention they draw the lurkers out, LOL!)


    I was surprised by the Lauder for Men, which I hunted down after you rec: The spicy anise at the top is very unexpected from an 80s masculine (there was this bombastic fougere thing on at the time) and it's overall soft.

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  26. M,

    not cologne-y, non soapy, bright and soft all over!

    Best of luck!

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  27. Prox,

    it's quite good. You won't be disappointed. Best of luck!

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  28. Kathleen,

    there is (or should be) a fan club for mr.Tauer! ;-)

    I think it's good enough for year-round wear. It's pretty nice.

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  29. Chris,

    I am certain the ones who go to LA will be treated to an afternoon of delights. You're in!

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  30. SS,

    not really orangey, more mandarin and tonka plus that soft drydown, but your idea isn't very far off.
    Best of luck!

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  31. Lorelie,

    I bet it will prove popular commercially. You're in!

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  32. Mark,

    Tauer has a following, doesn't he. Best of luck!

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  33. Kathleen,

    you're most definitely in!

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  34. Matt,

    name in the hat for you, rest assured!

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  35. L,

    I can't say I have been disappointed either, even though I can't pull off a couple of his (*sssssht*)

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  36. Pi,

    you're included, thanks for stopping by!

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  37. Dagney,

    of course I'm including you!
    Hope you're well, thanks for stopping by!

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  38. Cheiroso,

    some soapy notes do have a place in perfume, that's for sure!
    To clarify, this doesn't smell soapy, but it's inspired by a soap he made. It's very good, very yummy.
    You're in!

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  39. La Bonne Vivante,

    it's something very easy to wear and will be very popular. Good luck!

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  40. sounds very lovely- and I agree lovely bottle- please enter me!

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  41. This one sounds really interesting....l enjoy his creativity! I would love a sample.

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  42. That bottle looks gorgeous! I would love to try this one!

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  43. I would love to try Orange Star. I have a couple of Andy Tauer's fragrances already and I love his work.

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  44. Please enter me in the drawing.

    As summer approaches, a new citrus scent would be welcome!

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  45. YES! Please enter me into the draw - I adore Reverie au jardin (just got my 2nd bottle) and would love to try this too! Thanks!

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  46. Anonymous17:17

    Dear E,

    Pick me pick me!

    Natalia

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  47. Darn it! I got the notice about the Scent Bar appearance after I was committed to being on the other end of the coast for the weekend! Since crawling on ground glass for a fragrance is *slightly* over the top, even for me, I'll just ask to enter the contest. ;0)

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  48. Put me in the draw.

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  49. Please enter me in the drawing. I am very curious about this one!

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  50. I really want to try this! Please enter me! :)

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  51. I'll always enter a draw for a Tauer scent. Thanks for the opportunity!

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  52. I can't wait to smell this...

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  53. PhinClio21:17

    I'm a huge fan of Tauer's frags, so I can't wait to try this. Please enter me in the draw!

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  54. Oooh! Thanks for the draw! Count me in, E!

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  55. this sounds lovely. winning a sample would be the next best thing to being at the Scent Bar on 17 April.

    xo

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  56. Maria B.21:57

    It is so sad that this time I cannot go to LA and the Scent Bar, where I met the wonderful Andy. I have thoroughly enjoyed the Mandarins Ambrees soap, and I'm so glad he has used it as a springboard for a fragrance. Please enter me in the draw.

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  57. Anonymous22:13

    Interesting! Would love to sample the latest release from Andy

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  58. Stephan22:19

    Would be nice to have a chance to try this new shooting star from Andy.

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  59. This scent sounds very interesting. I'm very excited to try it. Thanks for the chance!

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  60. Thanks so much for your lucid decoding of this scent. Okoumal is a new one for me and I can't wait to read your post on labdanum/Ambreine. I would love to be entered in the draw.

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  61. It's getting close to summertime, and that means time to break out the citrus scents. Love orange fragrances, so this is on my must-try list.
    Please enter me in the draw for the deluxe sample ;)
    Thanks,
    Gail

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  62. So, now I have some idea about what this actually smells like! Thanks for the chance to try some.

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  63. Cheryl G02:14

    I cannot wait to try this. I am desperetly looking for something to fall in love with. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the opportunity.

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  64. Anything by Andy has been worth trying so far. The suspension is practically killing me...enter me into the draw please!

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  65. Thanks for your reviews which continue to help me learn about fragrances and have pointed me to some wonderful perfumes. Please enter me in the draw and thanks to you and Andy Tauer for the opportunity.

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  66. As luck would have it, I will be in L.A. on the 17th!! Scent Bar here I come! But please also include me in the drawing, I would love to sample this new Tauer offering.

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  67. So many drawings.. oh I just want a sample.. Purty please? =)

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  68. Wow, he's sprinkling these drawings around like so much fairy dust! What a sweetheart... And while I haven't won yet, hope springs eternal -- thank you!

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  69. Helg,
    Thanks so much for the description if this perfume. A lemming has been born. May I enter in the drawing please?
    Have a great weekend.

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  70. ElizabethN05:21

    Please enter me- and thanks for the drawing! I love that bottle, gorgeous!

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  71. Ooooh! I'd love to try this one. Enter me!

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  72. I really want to try this, please enter me in the drawing...
    I am new to the EU, does anyone know who will be carrying Tauer here?

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  73. Yes, please do enter me in the draw. I've been skipping lunch for weeks now to save up for Une Rose Chypree, so hopefully Orange Star is just as amazing!! Oh how I love Andy!!

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  74. Anonymous12:59

    I would love to be in the draw the scent sounds so interesting thank you and Andy for giving us a chance :)
    katya

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  75. Please enter me too. Sounds lovely

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  76. I would love to get a sniff of this! Please enter me in the draw.

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  77. Fernando14:00

    Please enter me! Andy Tauer is one of my favorites; any thing he does is going to be good.

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  78. huntergpt14:02

    I would love to try this. Please enter me in the draw.

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  79. I would love to be entered in the drawing. Thank you for having it!

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  80. Celine15:04

    I'd like to try Orange Star. Please enter me in the draw. Thanks!

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  81. I am really looking forward to this one!! I was thinking of going to Scent Bar tomorrow to show fan support!

    Glen

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  82. sounds like a great scent !

    although i have to say, i found the DIY aesthetic of the old packaging quite endearing.

    and ... please put me down for that draw, thanks !

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  83. I really want to smell this one, orange is one of my favorite scents. Please enter me in the draw. Rosiegreen

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  84. I can't wait to smell this one, so please enter me in the draw. Lately I'm finding myself drawn to a lot of scents with orange in them... maybe it's the weather change. :)

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  85. Please enter me in the draw. I have been looking forward to this new one for many months. At times like these I'd love to live in LA. I hope someone will report on Andy's reception at the Scent Bar. He's kind of like a rock star!
    Thanks,
    Susan

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  86. I can't wait to try this! Please include me in the draw! Thank you!

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  87. Thank you for the review and please do enter me in the sample draw!

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  88. oh i dont know what to say. but im a big fun of his stuff and ....im so curious in his orange star as ive been hearing what its like.... pls let me in yr drawing.... thank you for the opportunity..!

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  89. I've yet to find an Andy Tauer perfume I didn't love - regardless of whether or not I can wear it or it is "me."

    But when Andy makes an orange scent - one of my top three notes in perfume - I sit up and pay attention. It has to be magnificent. I'm sure of it!

    Please enter me in the draw! Or I'll die trying! ;-)

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  90. Anonymous17:52

    Please enter me too! This one sounds wonderful. Good luck to Andy in LA today! I think he has many fans on this side of the Atlantic, and that side of the Pacific!
    Thanks,
    Laura M

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  91. This fragrance sounds stunning! Please enter me for the draw.

    Catherine

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  92. Isn't amazing how many giveaways Tauer's line sponsors when he launches a new frag? I think this is brilliant. It ends up getting tons of real reviews out into the public eye.

    Please enter me!

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  93. Ah, AT is being so generous with his launch. Both a generous and a good thing, I think...good to lure more folks into the fan fold!

    (Wait, that's sort of what Gator Grad just said...hey up there! {waves to Gator Grad} :) )

    Thank you for being one of the hosts, E.

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  94. Rose,
    Tussah,
    Karin,
    Krista,
    Julie,Marko,
    Natalia,

    you're all included of course!

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  95. Eric,

    sorry you missed your chance on the Scent Bar appearence. I know sometimes life intervenes with our perfume hobby! :/
    But good luck for the draw!

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  96. Barbara,
    queencupcake,
    Robbie,
    rosarita,
    alexander greene,
    phinclio,
    karin,
    musette,

    jotting down your participation! Thanks for stopping by.

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  97. Maria,

    he's the sweetest person isn't he? And yes, as you say, the soap is a springboard of an idea for the more complex scent. Very nicely done indeed! You're in!

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  98. Anon,
    Stephan,
    schmidty,

    thanks for commenting and good luck!

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  99. Kathryn,

    oh it will be something really exciting, not (just) an ordinary article. ;-)

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  100. Gail,
    it's really fit for yearlong wearig but orange lovers will find it great for warmer weather too.

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  101. P,

    glad I provided a glimpse! You're in!

    (and hope you're well darling!)

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  102. CherylG,
    fjord,
    sean jo,

    thanks for your kind words and rest assured your names have been put in the hat! :-)

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  103. womo,

    drawings are popular aren't they? Hope you win!

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  104. Natalie,

    I want to clarify that previous drawings have been an initiative of Luckyscent (with Andy's blessing of course I presume). This one comes directly from Andy and is not affiliated with Luckyscent.

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  105. Arwen,

    hope you had a great time and you're included naturally! Good luck!

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  106. Elizabth,
    Diana,

    you're both in!

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  107. Kristen K,

    lucky you, Tauer is based in Switzerland and you can order directly from his site. Also First in Fragrance (www.ausliebezumduft.com) is carrying his fragrances, last time I checked so they will do so for the newest one too, I assume. (or I can check for you with Tauer directly, if not)

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  108. Katya,
    loverdoll.
    zeina,
    fernando,huntergpt,
    jemmima,
    Celine,

    you're all included!

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  109. Furriner/Glen,

    so very kind of you to show up!!

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  110. Drew,

    there was something endearing about the old bottles. A little home-made. But the new ones (apart from the packaging) hide home-made contents too, so I can't complain.
    Good luck!

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  111. Rosiegreen,
    daniele,
    susan,
    dixie,
    mikael,
    baobab,
    tarleisio,
    laura M,
    catherine,
    best of luck to all!

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  112. Gator Grad,

    I want to clarify (as above) that the giveaways have been in large part been Luckyscent's initiative (they have the budget supposedly to do it). This specific one is directly initialised through me and Andy and is sample-driven.
    There's certainly truth in what you say though that the more juice circulates, the more buzz is created and seeing as his scents are well-crafted, the buzz is largely (if not solely) positive.

    You're included of course, good lcuk!

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  113. S,

    there's certainly a point in what Gator Grad said (see my response above) and you're right.
    I wish I had dozens of samples to give away. Or that he had the budgets of L'Oreal to sprinkle fragrance on everyone for free. But we'll do what we can! :-)
    You're most welcome and best of luck!

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  114. Even when Andy's bottles were simple, he nevertheless did gorgeously thoughtful things like include that tasteful postcard of the hunky cowboy... which he hand-signed, "Enjoy! Andy Tauer". Touches like that more than made up for the simple flacon. But I'm loving my new cobalt bottle of ORANGE STAR, and the embossed gift tin it came in is simply TDF.

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