Friday, May 20, 2011

Annick Goutal Le Mimosa: fragrance review

For a lover of mimosa, spoiled on the honeyed powdery facets of Caron's Farnesiana or the cassie-rich musky-animalic meowing of Une Fleur de Cassie (F.Malle), Goutal's take on the yellow pom-pom flowers seems anaemic and watery; too innocent, too puerile, too fleeting... In fact, if you're looking for a "true" mimosa (like the one by L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa pour Moi with its violet and milky undercurrent) you will be crestfallen.

The mimosa blossom is a sign of spring hope, nature's awakenings, blooming as it does all bright yellow and proud in the end of winter and decorating the countryside with its shady branches that are carrying hundreds of yellow fluffy little bundles of joy; childlike, optimistic, bursting with energy and sweet smiles. Composed of the absolute of mimosa, a hint of iris, peach and white musks, the Goutal take on this floral scent evokes a delicate and subtle sweetness. (See also Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée by Hermès for a fine rendition)

The impression of Annick Goutal's Le Mimosa is nevertheless much more of a soft, fuzzy peachy note that overimposes itself over a Johnson's chamomille shampoo and clean orange blossom accord, the latter dominating the heart of the composition. Curiously enough, the (natural) mimosa absolute raw material is there (indeed it shares facets with the above, plus anisic nuances), so this is definitely an aesthetic choice; probably in line with the intended coherence inside the Goutal soliflores line. Perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal (Annick's daughter in charge of the house now) envisioned a soliflore that is ethereal, much like the other soliflores in their line-up (Des Lys, Le Jasmin, Le Cheuvrefeuille etc.). Eau de Charlotte already a good dosage of mimosa as well. They were also thinking of the audience who buy Petite Chérie and Quel Amour by the bucketload, apparently. Clearly I am not among them, preferring the intensity of Passion or Grand Amour, yet I can understand the need to play around a material which is almost emblematic of France and Grasse [Follow my route along the mimosa road on this link]. Le Mimosa is not entirely without merit.

Annick Goutal Le Mimosa is available at Annick Goutal stockists from February 2011 onwards. It was announced as a limited edition. The bottle takes on a polka-dot ribbon in yellow and black for the occasion.

Notes for Annick Goutal Le Mimosa:
bergamot, anise, mimosa absolute, iris, peach, white musk, sandalwood

Painting by Greek painter Knostantinos Parthenis, The Apotheosis of Athanassios Diakos, c.1933


  1. Bergamot--anise--mimosa--musk--sandalwood...sounds like Apres L'Ondee minus carnation/violet/jasmine.
    The minimalist/clean bits sound Jo Malone-ish.
    I'm intrigued and yet fairly certain I'd find the fragrance disappointing and not at all worth the money.
    "Fleeting"--it doesn't last? So tricky to do a sheer/light yet persistent scent (done right, those scents are some of my favorites). Ah, I miss Crown Alpine Lily!

  2. I waited so long for this to come here as you know Helg and what a let down! Too $$$ and it just goes "poof" and its gone.

  3. A,

    the AlO repice is knowing a resurgence it seems. Everything old is new again.
    This mimosa was a strange rendition of sweet and innocent plus watery-transparent, peachy-lactonic powdery. I found it a little confusing and I can't bring myself to be too enamoured by it. Though I do enjoy Doyen's style most of the time.

  4. A,

    forgot to say: Alpine Lily; I think I haven't sampled that one. Crown is such an unknown brand on the whole.

    Yeah, fleeting as in doesn't last. I couldn't really smell it after a couple of hours.

  5. M,

    I know. I know you were looking for a good, solid floral in that style. Jardins de Bagatelle is super-tenacious in contrast, even in EDT!


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