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Monday, May 11, 2009

Une Rose Chypree by Tauer Perfumes: fragrance review & draw

When I was testing Une rose chyprée for the first time, I was eating creamy Greek yoghurt sprinkled with shredded Valhrona 72% dark chocolate on top (an indulgence of my own imagining, highly recommended btw) and releafing through A History of Architecture: Settings and Rituals by Spiro Kostof.

The first impression as the drops of scent hit my skin was that I was actually tasting a bright mandarin-jam-filled chocolate nugget~a fun and intriguing experience which I would suggest you try at some point! Subsequent testing confirmed that the bright halo of clementine (and some linalyl acetate?) which was so unexpected and so deliriously juicy in Incense Rosé as well as in Mandarins Ambrées (the homemade soap Andy makes for the holidays) is making its appearence again. In the memorable words of Luca Turin on the former "The combination of rose, cardamom, and mandarin is so warm, so welcoming, you feel as if you’ve just heard a piece of good news you cannot quite remember."
Same goes for the affectionately called "Tauerade", a chord comprised of orris root/irone alpha and woody ambergris, which seems to weave through his work, the signature trait of an artist who has his own distinct style. That style has been loved by many fragrance aficionados starting with his masterful L'air du desert marocain and has progressed into a genuine cult, catapulting Tauer into the pantheon of independent perfumers worth of intently watching today.

But where is the rose?, you might be asking. The rose is there, but forget everything you have ever heard about your grandma's sour flower water, the toilet refresher that has you pinch your nose with its citral and geraniol intensity and the dusty pot-pourri that has been sitting on the mantelpiece begging for mercy into being thrown in the dust-bin already! None of those impressions is here and may I say it loud: "Thank God!". The diffuculty of working with rose is exactly the cultural associations with hygiene products that smell like sour wine and mouldy, crumbled pot-pouri bought by people who randomly heard about home fragrancing circa the early 1980s. Very few compositions get away with smelling like rose yet avoiding the miasma of the above, either by accenting the powdery violet ionones aspects ~such as Paris by Yves Saint Laurent and Creed's Fleurs de Thé Rose Bulgare~ or highlighting the jamminess of the fruitier facets of rose ~like in Liaisons Dangereuses by Kilian. Alternatively they can go the more covert chypre way, resulting in Cabaret (Grès), Aromatics Elixir (Clinique), Rose de Nuit (Serge Lutens), Diabolo Rose and Un Zéphir de Rose (parfums de Rosine). Andy has successfully solved the problem of working with rose and none of his fragrances evoke unpleasant images; only opulence.

The chypre accord of Une rose chyprée is built around oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum, and bergamot, while Tauer also uses treemoss in a balanced ratio resulting in a composition that is obviously chypre. The clearly perceptible vanillic undercurrent with a drop of Tolu balsam on the other hand gives an oriental nod, providing a soft, thick, envelopping mantle fitting both genders in its velvety embrace. A lightly "clean" effect is surfacing along with gentle spiciness like clothes clean, starched and pressed with a hot iron, a nod to his Vetiver Dance and the unreleased Eau d’épices. I asked Andy about the interesting effect, thinking that it could be the Lilial (which is very obvious in Vetiver Dance), but he told me that it might be the Givaudan aroma-chemical Okoumal, also present in some detergents: "It adds a vibrant undertone and is extremely lifting, especially to otherwise dark and stuffy woody resins".
The overall feeling of the fragrance is of a "thick" scent although it doesn't become stuffy. The lasting power is way beyond average, the fragrance stayed vibrant on my skin for a good 8 hours.


According to Andy Tauer

"Une rose chyprée is an oriental rose on a chypre base. It is built around two natural extracts from rosa damascena, the absolute and the steam distilled essential oil. Its heart is lifted by spices (Bay and cinnamon) and a fresh accord built around bergamot, lemon and clementine. Green Bourbon geranium oil lets the rose petals shine and contrasts with the dark resinous accord in the base, built around labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla".

Une rose chyprée is the first scent of a series of things to come, namely the special line Tauer Perfumes "mémorables" (please note it's Tauer Perfumes and mémorables; not "perfumes mémorables" which would mix the two languages!). The aim is to present small size fragrances (0.5oz/15ml) like a sweet praline to be savoured. All of them will either be eau de parfum or parfum concentration (Une Rose Chyprée comes as an eau de parfum), none of them limited editions. The funny little bottles, resembling nail treatments, are practical and come packaged and tied with deep yellow ribbon, finished entirely by hand. I like Tauer's philosophy by which he doesn't put the emphasis on the outside or the details of fancy names and such but on the inside; namely the juice!

Andy had been working on this scent for a year and you can read his thoughts and problematics following his blog. Une rose chyprée will launch officially on July 1st, available through Tauer Perfumes (price 65 CHF and 20CHF shipping worldwide), Aedes, First in Fragrance and Luckyscent.

I have two samples to send to two lucky readers. State your interest in the comments!

In the interests of disclosure I was sent the small 15ml bottle by Tauer himself this time. If my previous dedication is any indication, you know my tastes have not been swayed.

Photo of Yoghurt and Valhrona Shreds © by Perfumeshrine. Kirsten Dunst from Miu Miu 08 via IamFashion.blogspot.com Bottle via Tauer.

119 comments:

  1. Nina22:15

    I've just started reading your blog--it's wonderful!

    I'm love to try a sample of Une rose chypree. I've been reading about this scent with some excitement. For years I thought I didn't like rose scents for the same reasons you articulated today so beautifully. Now I'm finding that when the combination of rose and spices is done well, it makes me happier than anything.

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  2. Everything that you have just written and posted has my mouth watering. First for dark chocolate, whether by itself or sprinkled on Greek yoghurt, then for sniffs of Une Rose Chypree alternated with tiny bites of dark chocolate. Nothing else will do right now. Oh, except maybe a pre-release sample of the juice. So yes, please enter me in the draw. And thanks for a tantalizing post!

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  3. E,
    I'm not too sure what I am more interested in, the new Tauer or the Greek yoghurt sprinkled with shredded Valhrona 72% dark chocolate on top...but I guess the perfume sample is easier to send, LOL

    Hugs,
    T

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  4. Mellisu23:20

    I would love to try a sample of my most favorite perfumer. As regards your post, I will be watching Spiro Kostof's lectures online. I wasn't aware of them - many thanks for mentioning your reading!

    Mellisu

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  5. I'd love to try this, thanks!

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  6. Since Andy isn't yet sending out samples, I'm definitely interested in getting one! He is one impressive guy, and it sounds like this one is quite interesting.

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  7. Thank you for your review! I'm very much looking forward to this one and I'd love to be entered in the draw.

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  8. Great review, have been following the scent's development via the Tauerblog - can't wait til the launch & would love to be entered in the draw, thanks

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  9. Yes, please enter me in the drawing! Great review; really looking forward to sampling.

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  10. I would love to try this, please enter me in the drawing!

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  11. I would love a chance to win a sample of this!

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  12. Elizabeth05:04

    Ελένη, εγγράψε με, παρακαλώ - θα ήθελα να δοκιμάζω αυτό πρίν το αγοράζω. Εφχαριστώ πολύ!

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  13. I'd like to be included in the draw

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  14. Anonymous05:23

    I'm one of the few who doesn't mind rose scents, the more the better. I'm eager to try this one, please count me in. Now I am running to the kitchen to find the bar of dark chocolate that I hid from myself.

    Calypso

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  15. Chris G06:09

    I can't wait until this is released! Please enter me in the draw. Thanks!

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  16. stella p08:42

    Just read about it on Archiv für Duft.., and became very tempted! Please enter me in the draw!
    (yoghurt w dark chocolate sounds delicious - a "must-try"!, thanks for sharing)

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  17. ooh please enter me in the drawer!

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  18. my mouth is watering at the thought of your greek yoghurt and dark chocolate invention ...

    count me in for the draw please!

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  19. Tauer perfumes are a recent discovery for me and although I justr tried 2 (Reverie en jardin and Maroq pour elle), I have to say I was swept off my feet. So, please enter me in the draw. :)

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  20. Anonymous12:58

    The only spot in my collection to yet be filled is a good rose perfume for the girl who hates rose...or so she thought! This sounds amazing! I would love to be included in the draw! And Andy is a genius isn't he??!!

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  21. The yoghurt and fragrance sound tantalizing! Please enter me in the drawing...
    *Mindy*

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  22. Nina,

    welcome to Perfume Shrine and thank you for the most lovely compliment! So glad you like it here, hope to see you often :-)

    In regards to your interesting comment, it seems like there is a rather large group of us who have the exact same problem and who feel the same elation upon finding the right rose which unveils interesting facets. So good luck in the draw!

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  23. M,

    sweetie, thanks and you're welcome! You should try the recipe, it's soooo easy (looks good in a tall glass with a long spoon as well). As to Rose Chypree, I am wishing you best of luck for the sample drawing!

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  24. T,

    LOL! Both are good and should be within arm's reach really! You're in the draw, naturally! :-)

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  25. Mellisu,

    you're welcome and hope you win a sample! Architecture runs in the family and this is one of the very best. Hope you enjoy!

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  26. K,

    including you and best of luck!

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  27. F,

    he had some sent when he was doing previews, so always keep an eye on his blog, he's quite generous to his readers.
    But of course you're included and hope you get to win one!
    No matter what one's preferences a new Tauer is a new Tauer: definitely to be sampled!!

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  28. Juliet,

    you're most welcome and you're in!

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  29. Parfumerad,

    it's fascinating how Andy lets us glimpse the creative process, isn't it. I think much of the charm of his perfumes is exactly knowing there is a very real human being behind them, working, questioning, heeding to advice from the community, deciding with good taste.

    You're in!

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  30. AKCB,

    thanks for the compliment and stopping by and good luck!

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  31. Delurking to request that I be entered in the drawing!

    I'm excited about a new Tauer - and as a sucker for rose, I'm especially excited about this one. Thanks for the review.

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  32. Amanda,

    hope you win one! You're in :-)

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  33. Occhi neri (great name!),

    you're included so good luck!

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  34. Καλή μου Ελίζαμπεθ,

    φυσικά σε εγγράφω και ομολογώ εντυπωσιάζομαι! Είσαι αστέρι!!

    :-))

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  35. MMark,

    you're included!

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  36. Calypso,

    I must be breaking lots of people's diets today, eh? Didn't mean to (I try to ration myself too, eating small portions), honest!
    You're lucky since there are so many rose scents on the market. Hope you win and get to try this one as well!

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  37. Chris,

    I have included you, of course, I realise Tauer brings quite the anticipation, eh?

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  38. Anonymous14:36

    Dear E,

    With the warmer (just barely) weather we are having, I have taken my Guerlain Mandarine Basilic
    out of hibernation and am revelling in the juicy burst of freshness and bracing herbal bitterness. I bought this fragrance "blind" because I love basil and must admit that it has taught me to love the sweetness of mandarine. Ergo, your description of Une Rose Chypree makes me hope that, through my new-found love of mandarine, I might be seduced by the rose. Please enter me in the draw.

    Many thanks for a most seductive post.

    Natalia

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  39. H - the whole thing sounds delicious from your yogurt and chocolate to the Rose Chypree. Please enter me in the drawing also. Thank you! Spring_pansy

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  40. S,

    it's quite tempting, isn't it? I hope you win one!
    And do try the "recipe", it's so easy, but yummy and rather good for you (good bacteria and antioxidants):-)

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  41. K,

    you're included of course!

    (and I haven't forgotten of your fabulous award,darling, I am thinking of what to write!! Very soon!)

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  42. A,

    I'm sure that you will be having nooooo trouble whatsoever to find good Greek yoghurt where you are.
    You're in!!

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  43. Ines,

    and wait till you try L'air du desert marocain!! (it's a masterpiece IMO). Hope you get to try this one as well, so best of luck!

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  44. Anon,

    we share the same tastes obviously, so there's a good chance you might like this. Andy is a wonderful human being and we are soooo lucky that he also happens to be a great perfumer!

    Hope you win!

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  45. Mindy,

    you should try the "recipe", as I said above to many it's such a piece of cake to make!
    Good luck in the draw!!

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  46. Carol,

    so glad you're delurking! Thanks for doing it, I know sometimes it's hard to comment on a stranger's blog. :-)

    Hope you win, it's a very pleasurable fragrance.

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  47. Natalia,

    thanks so much for your warm comment and your support! It warms my heart.
    Basilic is such an interesting note, isn't it? Love its peppery warmth (well, I like most spicy things), it was nicely highlighted in Manifesto by Rosselini. Mandarin is another nice note, Tauer does it well. (you should try his Incense Rosee too!)
    You're of course included :-))

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  48. Debby/spring pansy,

    thank you for the comment and naturally I have included you! Good luck!

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  49. BenA14:46

    I'm a huge Tauer fan and I can't wait to try this one! Thanks for the review and please enter me in the draw!

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  50. Ben,

    He knows how to tantalise us through his blog, eh? I was very excited as well and glad that I have been enjoying it four days straight. Good luck!

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  51. Consider me interested!

    Because my greed is endless, I am hoping for a Mandarine Ambree in perfume form -- in fact I seem to remember Andy mentioning something about that.

    And I just happen to have both the chocolate and the yogurt on hand -- now why didn't *I* think of putting them together? Breakfast calls...

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  52. Anonymous15:20

    Hi E!

    Count me in! :)

    G'day to you.

    Hugs,
    Dawn

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  53. Please include me in the draw! I've been waiting for this scent forEVER - I'm counting down the days until it is generally available. You always seem to be ahead of the game with these reviews. ;-)

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  54. Ooooh I am dying to try this one; I know I'll love it. Please enter me in the drawing, and thanks for reviewing this!

    Lindsey9107

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  55. Enter me, too! I can't wait to try Andy's latest baby.

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  56. I'm interested! Count me in the draw please :)

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  57. Busyblue17:10

    I'm so thrilled to read that it doesn't smell like so many "rose interpretations" that are out there. It sounds lovely and I look forward to trying it! Love that he has the smaller bottles, too!

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  58. Anonymous17:12

    Rose scents have never been my favorites, but I'd like to sniff this treatment. Please enter me in the draw.
    -- Gretchen

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  59. How crazy I JUST put Kostof's book on my "to-read" list(architecture is my new pet interest)! What are the odds on that?! And after this review I'll have to put Une rose chypree on my "to sample" list!

    I've only ever sniffed Vetiver Dance, and for someone opposed to vetiver I found it surprisingly wearable.

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  60. Sounds like a "must try". please include me in the drawing, and thank you for a great review on one of my favorite perfumeurs.

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  61. I would enjoy a sample.

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  62. Anonymous20:23

    Hi,

    I have been reading your blog for quite some time now - but have never commented before. I love it! It's one of my daily "must-reads".

    The new Tauer fragrance has intruiged me ever since I first read about it - so please enter me in the drawing!

    Greetings from Germany

    Hana

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  63. meg jamieson21:52

    love the blog; love to try this--Meg J.

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  64. the scent sounds great! please enter me into the draw.

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  65. Starscent22:18

    I am dying to try this rose. As I recall, you did not love the rose in Maroc Pour Elle and I, too, have trouble loving rose scents. This one must be magic! I would love to smell it without having to wait until July so I hope I win a sample. In any event, many thanks for your review.

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  66. Courtney22:29

    would love to enter the drawing for this lovely fragrance for some odd reason I had a dream about this fragrance last night

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  67. Amy K22:52

    I would love to try a sample, please. Even on the rare occasions when I don't enjoy an Andy Tauer fragrance enough to purchase a bottle, I always have a lot of respect for his work. This one sounds particularly great.

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  68. Yes, please! I'd love to try it.

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  69. Oh, I can't resist. This is a scent I think I'm going to love; please include my name in the drawing, and thanks!

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  70. Thanks for an interesting review and a profound analysis.
    Tauerade... first I thought Incense was his signature. I could even smell it Rose Chyprée, but there is no incense there. So, those are irones... combined with woody amber accord. I guess irones worth more detailed understanding :o)

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  71. Let's give my luck a chance. Please, enter me in the drawing :)

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  72. Please do put me in the draw for a sample! I was one of the lucky people who won a full bottle from Andy's Easter draw, and I hoped to be able to get a bottle of Rose Chypree, but it wasn't available yet (so I went instead for the endlessly gorgeous Lonestar Memories). I'm certain that his newest will be to my taste: I love Tauers, love rose scents and I love chypres, so it's kind of obvious.

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  73. I would love to try it, E.

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  74. Anonymous03:25

    Ooooo... If it's not too late, I'd love to be considered for a sample of this. Tauer is amazing!!

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  75. Alyssa,

    I will! And your memory is jogging perfectly, don't worry. Indeed Andy was talking about it, so I hope he gets to it soon (in fact he was making some experiments with the materials).

    LOL! The ideas I am putting in people's heads, eh? I combine lots of things with yoghurt. Try it with peanuts and honey too: salty and sweet, nice interplay ;-)

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  76. D,

    sure thing baby!! (and I haven't been to the PO, but will probably tomorrow)

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  77. Eileen,

    of course I am including you. Trying to keep up, trying to keep up, so many things to test!

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  78. Lindsey,

    you're most welcome. I hope you win a sample!

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  79. Moon Girl,

    you're in! I can see how you're on edge about it.

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  80. Deanna,

    thanks for stopping by and of course you're included.

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  81. Busy,


    the small bottles make the new line so very much covetable and within reach, don't they? I mean how much commitment does it meean? Not like with big bottles. Good on Andy to think like that.

    And of course you're in, I think you might like it!

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  82. Gretchen,

    this is not your typical rose by any stretch of the imagination. Hope you win!

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  83. Kathleen,

    hi and thanks for stopping by!
    It's a wonderful book and it doesn't surprise me that someone interested in architecture should have it by their side. Do try to sample URC, if you don't win here, although I hope you do win!
    And I agree, VD is a very wearable perfume, even for non vetiver fans.

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  84. Scott,

    you're very welcome, hope you get to enjoy it. Andy has a fan club for a reason: he makes gorgeous perfumes.

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  85. Lulu,

    best of luck! :-)

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  86. Hana,

    thank you honey for your most kind words, such support warms my heart, and hope you continue to enjoy. It's a pleasure hearing from readers (I know sometimes it's a draw that brings them out, LOL) Hope to see you often and discuss fragrant matters.
    You're of course included, the fragrance has been quite tantalising to follow on Andy's blog.

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  87. Meg,

    awww, thanks sweetie for saying so! Best of luck for the draw!

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  88. Ksenia (what a beautiful name, is it Greek ~Ξένια~ by any chance?)

    thanks for stopping by and for commenting! I have included you in the draw so best of luck!
    (and what an interesting venue and field of expertise!)

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  89. Starscent,

    I wasn't enamoured with Le Maroc, true, but it was too much for me perhaps (although I love L'air). I think this will have non rose lovers come out of the midsts, it's very wearable and cuddly.
    Best of luck, you're in!

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  90. Courtney,

    don't say! Uncanny! It's a very interesting thing to sample, so best of luck, you're included and thanks so much for stopping by!

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  91. Amy,

    you said it! Tauer inspired respect. How could it be otherwise?
    You're in and hope you win!

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  92. Karin,

    thanks for commenting, you're of course included! Best of luck!

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  93. Rosarita,

    it's shaping up to be something for all those who had been searching for a new interpretation. You're in!

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  94. Max,

    thank you for stopping by, my dear! It has made me pause myself and try to dissect the materials which give off this effect. There is often an incense interlay (frankincense) in many of his fragrances, but the irone/ambroxan duo is more common throughout I think (?)

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  95. Elve,

    let's!! Hope you win!

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  96. P,

    that draw was completely envy-worthy, wasn't it! He's very generous with his readers.
    Hope you get to sample it, you're in! It's indeed what the name says but very very warm!

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  97. D,

    hi honey!!! How are you? Move went well? (you should send me your addy regardless of the draw for something else, new things to send).
    Best of luck in the draw though, as I know you're interested.

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  98. Anon,

    not too late, you're in, don't worry. Will leave the Une Rose Chypree draw open till the end of this week so that everyone gets their chance.
    I can't agree more on your assesment!!

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  99. First time post on my favorite perfume site. I recently came into some vintage LA Rose Jacqueminot and
    Chypre. Une Rose Chypree sounds like a dream come true. Please include me in the drawing.

    Thank you,

    Cheryl

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  100. Anonymous17:28

    I hope it is not late, please take me in the draw!
    Lavinia

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  101. Anonymous00:29

    I would be delighted to win a sample of Mr. Tauer's latest. I love Incense Rose. I used my small sample in three days but I still sniff the empty bottle for my fix.

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  102. rachaelg01:52

    chypres still challege me. i would love to try this, if the draw is still open.

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  103. Cheryl,

    thank you so much for your wonderful compliment and by all means welcome on the Shrine!
    Your new acquisitions are fabulous, so enjoy!
    Good luck on the draw!

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  104. L,

    good luck and thanks for stopping by!

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  105. Anon,

    I had been enchanted by IR too! I'm sure you will like this one too, then :-) You're in!

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  106. Rachel,

    yes, still open and I think this one is an unchallenging chypre, as it has a very soft vanillic base, very smooth.

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  107. I love Tauer's fragrances, especially L'air du desert marocain and Incense rose. Vetiver Dance I found challenging and initially regretting buying unsniffed, but as I continued to wear it and came to enjoy how it develops throughout the day, it has become one of my selfish pleasures. I say selfish because once in an elevator a lady exclaimed, "It smells like bug spray in here!" and I knew had had to be my Vetiver Dance. I enjoy your blog and I would love to try his newest scent!

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  108. Anonymous19:46

    L'Air is my favourite Tauer creation. I'm hoping this one will be just as good!

    robertashton69@yahoo.co.uk

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  109. Anonymous03:02

    Oh, oh, please enter me in the contest too! I'd love to try a Tauer. Thanks,
    Laura M

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  110. Thank you Jenn for your kind words and you're welcome here.

    I am sorry this happened with VD. Perhaps the spice-vetiver reads as something fiercer than it is?
    Anyway, I don't suppose you'd get that with this one, so good luck!

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  111. Rob,

    I sure hope you get a chance to find out! It's pretty good.
    Good luck!

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  112. Laura,

    you're included and thanks for stopping by! Good luck!

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  113. I want haz a sample, too, oriental spicy rose sounds interesting (even though I love roses even with the dusty potpourri notes). If it helps, I'll send you some chocolate:D

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  114. Ma cherie,

    done deal! (and you have detected my chocomaniac tooth, huh?) :-)

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  115. I found I couldn't stand not winning any of the drawings on various perfume blogs, and managed to snag one of luckyscent's now-available samples. (Samples were in short supply, but expected to be replenished soon.) Yay! So excited about it.

    Especially since the RC sample is coming with my longed-for bottle of PdN Le Temps d'une Fete. I don't think I could name one other fragrance that is guaranteed to make me feel as happy as Fete always does. Isn't it wonderful that there are scents one just falls in love with?

    And isn't it wonderful that one person's "meh" scent is someone else's Holy Grail?

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  116. Awwww, had I known it, I would have made another sample from my little bottle for you, as one perfume aficionado to another. If there's ever a draw in which I do have some to spare beyond the samples, do remind me!!

    Hope you enjoy both scents you ordered, one is guaranteed to bring you smiles, eh?

    Warmest regards!!

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  117. Please enter me in the draweing. i am huge Tauer fan and can't wait to try the new one!

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  118. Oh, sorry darling, the draw has closed now...But if you really want a sample mail me with a shipping address using the mail provided on the page and I will send one from my own bottle. Hope that pleases you! :-)

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  119. Anonymous22:28

    I'm wearing Rose Chypre right now. First and last impressions are sugar and moss. No rose at all. A curiously melancholy fragrance,like walking in a winter forest and catching a hint of spring, long before the season comes. Ah, the power of smell.......

    ReplyDelete

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