Perfume Reviews Index by House

The following Perfume Shrine Index contains Fragrance Reviews by House. Please report broken links to perfumeshrine @ yahoo.com
The reviews solely reflect the personal opinion of the author and are not sponsored in any shape or form. 
Work in progress!


Aftelier
Haute Claire
Secret Garden

Agent Provocateur
Agent Provocateur (short review)
Agent Provocateur (original & short description of flankers)

Amouage
Epic for men
Epic for women
Gold for women
Jubilation 25
Honour for Man
Honour for Woman
Library Collection Opus I, Opus II, Opus III
Library Collection: Opus V
Ubar

Annette Neuffer
Avicenna

Annick Goutal
Eau de Fier
Grand Amour
Heure Exquise
Le Jasmin
Le Mimosa
Musc Nomade (Les Orientalistes)
Passion
Quel Amour
Rose Absolue
Rose Splendide
Sables
Songes
Un Matin d'Orage

Anya's Garden
Fairchild
Kewdra
Light
Moondance
Pan
Riverside
Starflower

Apivita
Earth

Aqua di Parma
Gelsomino Nobile
Magnolia Nobile

Atelier Cologne
Vanille Insensee

Ayala Moriel Perfumes
Fete d'Hiver
Film Noir
Gigi
Sahleb
Vetiver Racinettes
Yasmin
Zohar

Arabian Attars
Arabian attars from Yemen

Aramis
Aramis (short review)

Armando Martinez
Benefactor
Maquillage
Pillow of Flowers

Armani
Attitude for men
Armani pour Femme original
Bois d'Encens (Armani Prive)
La Femme Bleue (Armani Prive)
Mania (vintage, original edition)

Ava Luxe
Madame X
Midnight Violet
Pearl Musk

Ayala Moriel Perfumes
Fete d'Hiver
Film Noir
Gigi
Sahleb
Vetiver Racinettes
Yasmin
Zohar

Baccarat
Les Larmes Sacrées de Thèbes
Un Certain été à Livadia
Une Nuit Etoilé au Bengale

Balenciaga
Cialenga
La Fuite des Heures (Fleeting Moment)
Michelle

Balmain
Jolie Madame
Miss Balmain

Barbara Bui
Barbara Bui Le Parfum

Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs
Snake Oil

Blood Concept Fragrances
Blood Fragrances

Bond No.9
Andy Warhol Silver Factory
Coney Island

Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (2011)

Boucheron
Boucheron pour Femme

Bulgari/Bvlgari
Black
Jasmin Noir
Voile de Jasmin
Omnia Green Jade

Burberry
Burberry Body
Burberry London for men (2006)

By Kilian
Cruel Intentions
Incense Oud
Liaisons Dangereuses

Cabanel
Alahine
Early Roses

Cacharel
Anais Anais
Eden
Loulou
Noa, Noa Fleur & Noa Perle (comparison)
Scarlett

Calvin Klein
Beauty
Secret Obsession
Obsession for men (short review)

Cartier
Baiser Vole
Roadster for men
Santos (short review)

Caron
Alpona
Coup de Fouet
Narcisse Noir
Nuit de Noel
Or et Noir
Parfum Sacre
Poivre
Tabac Blond
With Pleasure

Carven
Ma Griffe
Vetiver

Chanel
28 La Pausa (Les Exclusifs collection)
31 Rue Cambon (Les Exclusifs collection)
Antaeus
Antaeus Sport
Bel Respiro (Les Exclusifs collection)
Beige (Les Exclusifs collection)
Beige vintage (info)
Chance Eau Tendre
Coromandel (Les Exclusifs collection)
Cuir de Russie
Cuir de Russie (Les Exclusifs collection)
Eau de Cologne (Les Exclusifs collection)
Gardenia (comparison of vintage & Les Exclusifs)
No.18 (Les Exclusifs collection)
No.19
No.19 Poudré
No.46
Pour Monsieur
Sycomore (Les Exclusifs collection)

Chantecaille
Le Jasmin

Chloe
Chloe (distrubuted by Lancaster): old version vs.new edition

Christian Dior
Diorama
Diorella
Diorling
Dior-Dior
Eau Fraiche
Eau Sauvage (short review; info on hedione)
Fahrenheit 32
Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle
Jules
Miss Dior
Patchouli Imperial
Poison (short review)
Poison Hypnotic (short review)
Poison Tendre (short review)
Poison Pure (short review)
Poison Midnight (short review)
Poison Elixirs: Poison Hypnotic Elixir, Poison Pure Elixir, Poison Midnight Elixir (short reviews)

Clinique
Aromatics Elixir

Comme des Garcons
888
Avignon
H&M by Comme des Garcons
Kyoto
Laurel by Monocle x
Man 2(short review)
Ourzazate

Costes
Costes by Hotel Costes

Cote Bastide
Fleurs d'Oranger (short review)

Coty
Chypre de Coty

Crazy Libellule & the Poppies
Encens Mystic

Creative Scentualization
Perfect Veil

Creed
Angelique Encens
Jasmine Emperatrice Eugenie
Royal English Leather
Spice & Wood

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Cimabue
Musk Eau Natural

DelRae parfums
Debut

Deneuve Catherine
Deneuve

Diane von Furstenberg
Diane by Diane von Furstenberg

Different Company, The
Jasmin de Nuit

Diptyque
Do Son

Essence of John Galliano
Jardin Clos
Opone (short review)
Opopanax

Dolce & Gabanna
The One (for women) Eau de Parfum

Donna Karan
Gold

Elie Saab
Elie Saab Le Parfum

Estee Lauder
Azuree original (1969) (short review)
Azuree Soleil
Beautiful Love
Bronze Goddess
Bronze Goddess Soleil 
Pleasures Delight
Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
Wild Elixir
Wood Mystique

Etat Libre d'Orange
Archives 69
Bijou Romantique
Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes
Secretions Magnifiques 

Etro
Gomma
Messe de Minuit
Shaal Nur
Vetiver (short review)
Via Verri

Fath
Iris Gris

Floris
Vetiver

Frederic Malle
Carnal Flower

Dans tes Bras
Iris Poudre
Lys Mediterranee
Musc Ravageur
Vetiver Extraordinaire

Fresh
Pink Jasmine

Gianfranco Ferre
Ferre by Ferre (short review and comparison)

Givenchy
Ange ou demon
Givenchy Gentleman
Vetyver

Gres
Cabochard

Guerlain
Ambre de Guerlain
Angelique Noire
Aqua Allegoria (all fragrances, short reviews)
Aqua Allegoria Bouquet No.1
Arsene Lupin Dandy
Attrape Coeur
Atuana
Chant d'Aromes
Carnal Elixirs/ Elixirs Charnels (Gourmand Coquin, Chypre Fatal, Oriental Brulant)
Chamade
Coque d'Or
Cuir de Russie by Guerlain
Delice de Peau body cream
Cologne du 68
Cologne du Parfumeur
Cruel Gardenia
Cuir Beluga
Derby (short review)
Djedi
Fleur de Feu
Guet Apens
Habit Rouge
Idylle Duet (Rose-Patchouli)
Insolence Eau de parfum
Iris Ganache
Jasminora
Jardins de Bagatelle
La Petite Robe Noire no.2
L'instant Magic
Liu
Mitsouko
Nahema
No.68 Limited edition
Ode
Parure
Pour Troubler
Rose Barbare
Samsara
Shalimar
Shalimar Eau Legere & Shalimar Light
Shalimar Parfum Initial
Sous le Vent
Tonka Imperiale
Vega
Vetiver pour homme and Vetiver Glacee
Vetiver pour elle
Vol de Nuit
Vol de Nuit Evasion

Halston
Halston by Halston

Haramain
Al Nabha (short review)

Haydria Perfumery
Harem Girl
Tainted Love


Hermes
24 Faubourg
Bel Ami (short review)
Doblis
Eau d'Hermes
Elixir des Merveilles
Eau de Merveilles (comparison between concentrations and Elixir)
Iris Ukiyoé (Hermessences)
Kelly Calèche
Poivre Samarkande (Hermessences)
Santal Massoia (Hermessences)
Un Jardin apres la Mousson
Un Jardin sur le Toit
Vanille Galante (Hermessences)
Vetiver Tonka (Hermessences)

Hilde Soliani
Anemone
Bell'Antonio
Conafetto
Iris
Mangiami dopo teatro (short review)
Margerita
Ortensia (short review)
Sipario(short review)
Stecca (short review)
Tulipano
Vecchi Rosetti

Histoires de Parfums
Colette 1873

Honore des Pres
Vamp a NY
Bonte's Bloom, Chaman's Party, Nu Green, Sexy Angelic

Illuminated Perfume Roxana Villa
Hedera Helix
Lyra
To Bee
Q
Notes for all Roxana Villa perfumes

Indult
Tihota

Ineke perfumes
After my Own Heart
Balmy Days and Sundays, Chemical Bonding, Dering Do, Evening edged in Gold (short reviews)
Evening Edged in Gold (short review)

I Profumi di Firenze
Zagara (short review)

Jean Couturier
Coriandre

Jean Louis Scherrer
Jean Louis Scherrer I (green)

Jean Paul Gaultier
Fleur du Male (for men)
Ma Dame

Jo Malone
Honeysuckle and Jasmine
Orange Blossom
Tea Collection: Assam & Grapefruit, Earl Grey & Cucumber, Sweet Milk, Sweet Lemon, & Fresh Mint Leaf

Kenzo
Power

Knize
Knize Ten

Krizia
Teatro alla Scala
K de Krizia

La Maison de la Vanille
Vanille Noire de Mexique

Lancome
Cuir de Lancome re-issue (short review)
Cuir de Lancome re-issue & vintage Revolte (full review & comparison)
Kypre de Lancome
La Valee Bleue
Magnifique
Miracle Forever
O de Lancome
O de l'Orangerie
Poeme

Lanvin
Rumeur
Scandal

L'artisan Parfumeur
Fleur de Narcisse 2006 (Harvest series)
Fleur d'Oranger 2005 (Harvest series)
Havana Vanille
La Haie Fleuri de Hameau
L'Ete en Douce/ Extrait de Songe
Mandarine
Passage d'Enfer
Safran Troublant (short review)
Traversée du Bosphore
Thé pour une Ete
Timbuktu
Vanille Absolument
Vetiver (short review)
Voleur des Roses

Laura Tonnato
Amir

Le Labo
Aldehyde 44 (Dallas exclusive)
AnOther 13
Baie Rose 26
Gaiac 10 (Tokyo exclusive)
Musc 25 (Los Angeles exclusive)

Poivre 23 (London exclusive)
Santal 33
Vanille 44 (Paris exclusive)

Les Nez
L'antimatiere
Let me Play the Lion"
Manoumalia
The Unicorn Spell
Turtle Vetiver Exercise 1
Turtle Vetiver Front

Lolita Lempicka
L de Lempicka

Lorenzo Villoresi
Incensi
Vetiver (short review)

Lubin
Idole (short review)

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
Jardin Blanc
Route du Vetiver (short review)

Marc Jacobs
Amber Splash
Bang
Blush
Daisy
Daisy Eau so Fresh

Maria Candida Gentile
Cinabre
Exultat
Hanbury

Michael Kors
Island Hawaii

Mihov Konstantin
Alice in Wonderland

Miller Harris
Jasmin Vert
L'air de Rien

Missoni
Missoni Aqua

Molinard
Une Histoire de Chypre for Aedes

Montale
Jasmin Full

Montana
Parfum de Peau
Suggestion trio: Eau d'Argent, Eau d'Or, Eau Cuivree

Nasomatto
Absinthe
Duro
Hindu Grass
Narcotic Venus
Silver Musk

Narciso Rodriguez
Essence

Narciso for Her & comparison of all concentrations/versions

Nobile 1942
Anonimo Veneziano

Pontevecchio M for Him
Pontevecchio W for Her

Norma Kamali
Incense

Oscar de la Renta
Esprit d'Oscar
Oscar Violet

Oriflame
Amethyste Fatale
Chiffon

Ormonde Jayne
Frangipani Absolue
Ormonde Woman
Sampaquita
Ta'if (short review)
Tiare
Tolu
Zizan

Paco Rabanne
Calandre
La Nuit de Paco Rabanne

Paloma Picasso
Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum

Patricia de Nicolai
Kiss me Tender
Vetyver (short review)

Parfumerie Generale
Corps et Ames (short review)
Praline de Santal

Parfum d'Empire
Aziyade

Parfums MDCI
Ambre TopKapi
Peche Cardinal

Patou
Adieu Sagesse
Amour Amour
Caline
Chaldee
Cocktail
Colony
Delices
Divine Folie
Joy
L'Heure Attendue
Moment Supreme
Normandie
Que sais-je?
Vacances

Penhaligon's
Amaranthine
Castile
Juniper Sling
Sartorial

Piguet Robert
Baghari (new vs vintage)
Bandit
Calypso (vintage)

Pontevecchio
Anonimo Veneziano
Pontevecchio M for men
Pontevecchio W for women

Prada
Candy by Prada
L'Eau Ambree
Infusion d'Iris
Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger
Infusion d'Homme
Infusion de Tubereuse

Profumo.it/La Via del Profumo
Angelica Water
Chocolate Amber
Frutti Paradisi
Green Blossom
Grezzo d'eleganza
Samurai

Revillon
Detchema

Rochas
Femme
Moustache
Rochas Man

Satellite
A la Figue
Ipanema

Serge Lutens
Arabie (short review)
Bas de Soie
Boxeuses
Clair de Musc
Chypre Rouge
De Profundis
Douce Amere
Encens et Lavande
El Attarine
Fleurs d'Oranger
Jeux de Peau
Iris Silver Mist
L'Eau de Serge Lutens
L'Eau Froide
Nombre Noir
Mandarine Mandarin
Sarrasins
Serge Noire
Tubéreuse Criminelle
Un Lys
Vetiver Oriental
Vitriol d'Oeillet

Shiseido
Inoui

Nombre Noir

Solange
Cosmic

Sonoma Scent Studio
Ambre Noir
Champagne de Bois
Encens Tranquille
Jour Ensoileillee
Fig Tree
Fireside Intense
Lieu de Reves
Nostalgie
Opal
Sienna Musk
To Dream

Sonia Rykiel
Belle en Rykiel
Sonia Rykiel Woman-not for men! (Eau de parfum)

Tauer Perfumes
Carillon pour un Ange
Dark Passage (Tableau de Parfums Snapshots, LE)
Eau d'Epices 
Hyacinth and a Mechanic (unreleased ~"bottle on a journey" project)
Incense Extreme
Incense Rose
L'air du desert marocain
Miriam (Tableau de Parfums line)
Orange Star 
Pentachords: White, Auburn, Verdant
Reverie au Jardin
Rose Vermeille 
Une Rose Chypree
Vetiver Dance
Zeta

Thierry Mugler
Eau de Star
Innocent
Womanity

Tom Ford
Arabian Wood (Private Blend Collection)

Black Orchid
Bois Marocain (Private Blend Collection)
Champaca Absolute (Private Blend collection)
Grey Vetiver (Private Blend Collection)
Japon Noir (Private Blend Collection)
Jasmin Rouge
Italian Cypress (Private Blend Collection)
Santal Blush
Violet Blonde

Tommi Sooni
Tarantella

Trussardi
Bianco
Trussardi Uomo (original) (short review)

Ulric de Varens
Ulric pour Elle

Valentino
Valentina de Valentino

Van Cleef & Arpels
First (short review, info on hedione)

Vera Wang
Look

Vero Profumo
Kiki (extrait)
Onda (exrait)
Rubj (extrait)
Kiki, Onda, Rubj in Eau de Parfum concentration

Viktor & Rolf
Spicebomb

Washington Tremlett
Black Tie (short review)

Yves Saint Laurent
Belle d'Opium

In Love Again
Kouros
L'homme
Opium
Paris
Rive Gauche
Saharienne
Y by Yves Saint Laurent
Yvresse (previously "Champagne")

Chanel No.5 L'Eau: fragrance review & marketing insights

 Chanel No.5 L'Eau, endorsed by the debutantes of the Chinese press, has been hailed as an innovation, but it's really "new old school". And I'm stating this in a positive light. It's a very likeable fragrance by Chanel which retains the spirit of the classic with a very contemporary sensibility of new beginnings and a freshness that differs from the exigencies of the 1920s, a century later. But its composition is not innovative, rather it makes abstract and elegant (in the mathematical sense) what has been passed down from tradition, in order to appear new. 

To wit, the use of aldehyde C8 is an addition that is not particularly modernist, nor is Australian sandalwood or the fractional-distillation ylang ylang that Polge père (Jacques) and Polge fils (Olivier) have been surely contemplating using for a couple of years now. The balancing act of the fragrance lies in judging how the citrusy freshness extends and rejuvenates the rose in the heart. And how an aldehydic fragrance appears non stuffed, nor "old lady perfume" (explained).

The core of No.5 L'Eau is shifted from the densely ylang and perceptible musk chord that dominates the modern varietals of No.5 to the delicate, wisp-like chord of citrus and rose. Almost a skin scent. By definition the concentration is light, ethereal, reflected in the choice of Lily-Rose Depp as the face of the ads. But why an ethereal version with a youth as the face?

It all started in the 80s when then in-house perfumer, the erstwhile Jacques Polge, created the first real "tampering" of the authentic formula to bring it up to par with the powerhouses of the decade of excess. When you have to keep your footing in the market that saw the original typhoon of Dior's Poison and the lead density of detonator of amber waves that was the original Obsession by Calvin Klein, you have to have a classy and elegant formula boosted to its logical limit. Ergo No.5 received a generous helping dose of the sandalwood synthetic Polysantol which effectuated that smooth, lactic boost that was missing from the earlier versions. No.5 Eau de Parfum is possibly not the "truest" No.5 but it is a satisfying edition that is made with great care.

Chanel continued to keep a very tight, and careful, modus operandi on any and all subsequent editions of No.5. I distinctly and fondly recall the No.5 Elixir Sensuelle which boosted the soapier smelling and muskier elements to render a less faithful but still sexy-as-hell body gel. It encapsulated what Coco Chanel herself had meant for No.5 to symbolize: a clean woman that wasn't at odds with her natural scent. The idea that women could be both sexy and not dirty. After all, her inspiration was a famous cocotte friend who smelled "clean", contrary to society women of the times "who smelled dirty" according to the French designer herself. 

The logical extension could only be manifested in something like Chanel No.5 Eau Première. Indeed praised by almost everyone in the industry for adhering to the original concept, without deviating too much, and at the same time bringing forth a new sensibility, Eau Première was critically praised by critics and bloggers, as well as connoisseur wearers only to be daunted at the fragrance counter by a relative indifference in its modern message. Eau Première, fabulous though it was, couldn't address the needs and wants of a youthful audience who knew No.5 from its legendary course and urban fashion clout, but did not feel confident in pulling it off in real time.

Unlike many, maybe even most, flankers by Chanel, such as Coco Mademoiselle and Coco Noir (extending and renewing the fragrance concept of Coco Eau de Parfum), which had little relation to their predecessor, No.5  l'Eau inherited enough of the original's nucleus to serve as a valid reimagining on the original idea.

Related reading on PerfumeShrine:

Coco by Chanel: fragrance review

Chanel No.19 & Heure Exquise: Twin Peaks

On Classifying Chanel No.19 & perfume review 

What's the True Story of Chanel No.5?

Cultural history: Exposition Chanel

Chanel No.5 Through the Years

Chanel No.46: fragrance review & history

I Don't Want to Set the World on Fire: Imaginative Fantasies

Chanel Les Exclusifs Misia: fragrance review [And a collective Chanel Les Exclusifs link.]

A Special Homage: Coco Chanel

Today would have been Coco Chanel's birthday, had she been around and withstanding the scrutiny for her infamous past. No matter what anyone has to say about the lady herself and her tumultous personal life, her enduring style has really changed the way we see fashion and how women dress themselves. That's you see the advantage of avant-garde; making history.

via

Chanel's characteristic use of jersey fabric, pants for women, that do not resemble the harem, the trademark quilted handbags, two-toned pumps, pearls and costume jewelry, the freedom of fluidity & movement in her jackets, the stark usefulness of neutral colors such as beige, white, black and navy and her philosophy of function vs. decoration have made Chanel an icon of the 20th century and a true liberator of women from the constrictive garments of La Belle Epoque. We owe her that much.

Her fragrances of course couldn't but follow her unerring sense of style. The famous Chanel no.5 was followed by many others, notably No.19 commemorating her birthday on August 19th. This is what I am wearing myself today, reveling in both its sharp galbanum and vetiver cutting through the humidity (thick like it could be cut with a knife) and luxurious enough with its orris background.

So in her own honor, please find some related articles of mine on her style, beauty advice, iconography and of course perfumes.
And please share your own experiences with Chanel beauty & perfumes in the comments!

Coco by Chanel: fragrance review

Chanel No.19 & Heure Exquise: Twin Peaks

On Classifying Chanel No.19 & perfume review 

What's the True Story of Chanel No.5?

Cultural history: Exposition Chanel

Chanel No.5 Through the Years

Chanel No.46: fragrance review & history

I Don't Want to Set the World on Fire: Imaginative Fantasies

Chanel Les Exclusifs Misia: fragrance review [And a collective Chanel Les Exclusifs link.]

Chanel to Launch Les Exclusifs Jersey & Chanel No.19 Poudre flanker

It was a matter of being due at Chanel: Chanel No.19 is such a revered classic (and a very popular mature woman choice in my country) that it would be a misstep not to exploit this by rendering a new flanker, aimed at the younger audiences who might be introduced to the brand of No.19 via that gateway.
Enter No.19 Poudré, the latest mainstream fragrance by Chanel, as revealed in a lengthy interview by Jacques Polge on Women's Wear Daily, which will hit the stores in the summer of 2011.

The composition, much like Cristalle Eau Verte did for Cristalle and Eau Premiere did for No.5, will highlight the lighter, more diaphanous elements in the formula, with the lately popular veil of modernised, sheer powder accord (as in Love,Chloé and Esprit d'Oscar). The powdery effect will be rendered through novel musks plus iris, an already major component of the classic No.19. According to veteran perfumer Jacques Polge who is only the third head perfumer for Chanel, since 1978:

"We've found some new musks that are very interesting, and we're working a lot at the moment on iris, which is a very important ingredient in No.19 Poudré. We have our plantations in Grasse, with rose and jasmine, and we're trying to find new qualities in those. But we're also trying to reproduce what was done 40 years ago, that nobody does anymore".

Other ingredients featured prominently in No.19 Poudré besides iris and musk are jasmine and neroli. The concentration is Eau de Parfum, as shown on the bottle.

My personal view on the new flanker launch? It's dubious whether classicists will be pleased by the new No.19 flanker, but it does sound like it will be heavy on those "novel" musks and iris (probably boosted by synth alternatives as well) to project at a powdery pitch. Powdery is a new trend in the market which would have fans of the older version (I'm one of them) not too mad at the new.
Who knows? A flanker usually means the continuation of a brand: I would like to see the No.19 brand going rather than being left behind in the wake of more popular things.

As to Jersey, it is the name of the upcoming Chanel Les Exclusifs, joining Beige, Sycomore, 31 Rue Cambon, 28 La Pausa, Coromandel, Eau de Cologne, Bel Respiro, No.18, Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, Gardenia and No.22. [links open up reviews of respective scents]. The name had been trademarked a long while ago, as we rgularly predict trends on these pages based on that, and it remains to be seen what treatment the masterminds of Jacques Polges and Chris Sheldrake are envisioning this emblematic fabric of Coco Chanel ~which made her famous (and infamous)~ will translate into. Referencing couture through fragrance is not unknown to Chanel. If we're allowed a little deliberation, a white floral is missing from the Exclusifs line. Or specifically a magnolia, one of the latest notes du jour, begging for a luxury spin.
Edit to add: Preliminary testing suggests Chanel Les Exclusifs Jersey is a clean fragrance with notes of lavender, vanilla and white musks. We will update with a full review.

Release dates for Chanel No.19 Poudré are 1st of June for London (on preview at Selfridges) and 15 days later for the rest of the UK and Europe, available at major department stores.
Chanes Les Exclusifs Jersey will hit stores in autumn 2011 as part of the Chanel boutiques circuit and online at the US store.

thanks to AlbertCA for bringing this to my attention, pic via Grazia scan online

Chanel Les Exclusifs Beige: fragrance review

Beige evokes different things for different people: from the suave to the anodyne all the way to lackluster, it is a neutral nuanced enough to escape the unambiguous reactions to black or white. Although the adjective has degenerated into invoking a blah response in the current vernacular, beige can be approached with the silent admiration that a honey-blonde with golden skin clad in a basic trenchcoat and heels can provoke in those of us with an eye for such things. Beige is thus baptised the new fragrance by Chanel to join the upscale line Les Exclusifs, modern compositions that interpret the olfactory heritage of Chanel to varying degrees. In house perfumers Jacques Polge and Chris Sheldrake envisioned a litany of shades for a completely new interpretation of an old rarity: Beige by Chanel was one of the rare vintage fragrances that hark back to the days of Gabrielle Chanel herself and formed a holy triad: Rouge, Bleue, Beige, inspired by her collection of dresses in red/blue/beige in jersey but also echoing the triptych of the French flag colours.

Coco turned beige into a symbol of elegance: "I take refuge in beige because it's natural". I distinctly recall that over a decade ago, this was used in the advertising surrounding the release of Allure Eau de Toilette (a different composition than the monodimensional vanillic indulgence of the Eau de Parfum). Contrary to usual packaging practices at Chanel, the box was not in the traditional white of the numerotical fragrances No.5, No. 22, No.19 or of Cristalle. Nor was it the arresting black of baroque oriental Coco: it was beige! At the time the press release insisted that the choice had been made exactly to pay hommage to one of Coco Chanel's favorite colors.
Perhaps the most successful and discreetly seductive use of beige has been in Chanel's trademark two-toned shoes, originally conceived as slingbacks in 1957, which she called souliers. Raymond Massaro, the shoemaker attached to the house, along with his father, was responsible for production at that time. Beige provided optical lengthening of the calf, while the black, slightly sqaure toe shortened the foot, making feet look dainty. Their discreetly fetishistic sensuality is ladylike, alluding to nude smooth skin without any trace of vulgarity. It makes me think of images of Jean Shrimpton in Melbourne, ladylike prim in her minidress and two-toned Chanel flats, and the tactile curves of suave luxury cars. Exactly what Beige by Chanel is all about!

Hawthorn or aubépine, the leitmotif in Beige, is rendered synthetically in perfumes for several decades. Produced via anisic aldehyde* (p-methoxy benzaldehyde) it has been sublimely woven into the gauzy cloth of Après L’Ondée by Guerlain (where it sings along with heliotropin), which Beige indirectly references. The fluffy, almondy "note" is also used in many contemporary fragrances, from the top note allied to violets of Paris by Yves Saint Laurent to niche offerings L'eau d'Hiver by F.Malle and Daim Blond by Serge Lutens. This shady, dusty smell that borders on a wistful gourmand resembles the tender caress of a godmother fulfilling much anticipated wishes. Much like the latter fragrances Beige resolutely eschews retro allusions to enter the territory of modern compositions. Sketched around this core the sparkling, fresh, lathery ambience of a note that resembles lily of the valley synthetic approximations and the discreet garland of tropical blooms frangipani and ylang-ylang -alluding to No.5 Sensual Elixir- reveal a creamy sensuality gaining momentum slowly.

But the most surprising effect of Beige (and I am astonished I am the first to notice it) comes when you have waited for it for a couple of hours to dry on skin or blotter: the final accord is very much that of Infusion d'Iris by Prada! The woody powdery effect resembles Ambré 83, a sweet base produced by Laboiratoires De Laire that focuses on benzoin, vanilla and honey, diluted five-fold. De Laire, founded in 1878, is famous for producing among other things the bases Prunol, Bouvardia and the infamous Mousse de Saxe for parfums Caron. Ambré 83 is the perfect bridge for perfumes with rich floral parts, such as L'eau de Circé by Parfumerie Generale and sometimes contributes to the linear effect of fragrances. Beige sustains the powdery woody effect for a long time, although it might benefit in terms of initial emotional response if made into a denser concentration, such as extrait de parfum.

If Chanel aimed at providing an instantly approachable, modern and restrained fragrance, they have undoubtedly succeeded. Much like Infusion d'Iris, with its feminine flounces coupled with masculine sparsness, Beige will appeal to women and men alike, floral-lovers as well as floral-haters and will prove to be a best-seller. Personally I would have liked if it included the black toe of the Chanel shoes that provides the arresting counterpoint. But for that I can revert to the more individual smokiness of Sycomore.

Official Notes for Chanel Beige: hawthorn, freesia, frangipani, honey.

Beige bu Chanel comes in the austere bottles of Les Exclusifs, in 200ml of Eau de Toilette. It's currently a Saks exclusive but later will be featured in all the usual places where Les Exclusifs are exclusively available.

*Anisic Aldehyde results upon oxidation of anethol which is contained in anise oil, star anise oil and fennel oil. It's also present in the extract of Tahiti vanilla and in Roman and French cassie blossom oils.

Photo "Beige Swede against beige wall", courtesy of Trudy/flickr. Pic of Beige bottle via press release. Pic of Chanel two-tone Mary Janes through Ebay.