Perfumer Maurice Roucel Appointed Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres

“We chose Maurice Roucel to receive the order because we were deeply impressed by his olfactive creativity over the last four decades. During this time, he has developed his own way of creating remarkable scents by combining his unique inspiration and profound knowledge,” commented Frédéric Mitterrand on the decision to appoint Maurice Roucel Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.

The Ordre des Arts et des Lettres is a French award from the Minister of Culture and Communication and was instituted on May 2, 1957. President Charles de Gaulle included it as part of the Ordre National du Mérite in 1963. It is awarded to people who have made significant contributions to the arts, literature or the advancement of these fields. The recipients are not exclusively French nationals.

Maurice Roucel looks back on 40 years of creative work in the perfume industry. During this time, he has worked for many renowned manufacturers of fragrances. In 1996 he joined Symrise and has since created many signature scents for the fragrance house. Among his most successful creations are Be Delicious by Donna Karan, Guerlain's Insolence and L' Instant, 24 Faubourg by Hermès, L by Lolita Lempicka, L'Onde Mystère by Armani, for women as well as Hypnose for men by Lancôme, Kenzo Air for men, Pleasures Intense by Estée Lauder, Musc Ravageur and Dans Tes Bras for F.Malle, Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens and many more... (K de Krizia perfume anyone?)

Maurice expressed his gratitude: “I feel very proud to have been made part of the order for my work as a perfumer. It’s always a challenge to find a way to express your individualism and at the same time meet the expectations of your customer and to give the consumer what they desire.”

A decision that surely leaves perfumery with an enhanced significance in the field of the arts. 

Read an interview with perfumer Maurice Roucel on this link.

Scratch & Sniff Jeans: Get your Posterior to Smell Like Raspberries

Blowing a raspberry might get a brand new meaning if you're wearing the new Weird Guy Scratch n’ Sniff Raspberry Scented jeans from Naked & Famous! This Canadian brand boasts of using only raw denim manufactured at a traditional mill in Japan, so quality shouldn't be a concern, but are you ready for having your bottom smelling like raspberries every time there's friction?

How it works? Raspberry perfume was coated all over the denim, hundreds of tiny micro-scent capsules that break when you scratch the surface (that's the same technology employed for scent strips for magazines) and then baked into them. Naked & Famous claims that the scent can last up to five washes! If you go as far as washing once every 3 months as recommended by some ~hard-core, surely~ jean purists (so as to supposedly preserve color & texture), you'd be set for aromatic wearings for 15 months!
The jeans retail for €150 ($165 USD) and are available for purchase online at Colette .

Big Fragrance Companies Condemned for Fixing High Prices: Perfume Cartel Bust

Thirteen leading fragrance companies have been sentenced to a total of more than 40 million in fines by the Court of Appeal of Paris for price fixing leading up to an oligopoly/collusion.
The Court upheld a decision by the Competition Authority ruled in 2006 against thirteen major names in luxury and three distribution companies of perfumes and cosmetics, for fixing a retail price of products to standardize prices up , as the Court viewed by AFP.

The condemned perfume brands are: Chanel, Beauté Prestige International (Jean Paul Gaultier and Issey Miyake fragrances), Clarins Fragance Group (including Thierry Mugler perfumes), Hermès Parfums, Parfums Christian Dior, Elco (Clinique and Estee Lauder), Guerlain, L'Oreal, LVMH Fragance Brands, Sisheido Europe, and YSL Beauté. The condemned distributors are retail sales giants: Marionnaud, Sephora and Nocibé.

What was this all about?

The luxury groups in question locked a "street price" of products and the discount rate than they were allowed to practice with their distributors in order to level up prices to the detriment of the consumer, as the Competition Council established in its first decision in 2006.
They also accused the suppliers of establishing a "price police", in other words, price controls, pressures and threats of trade retaliation vis-à-vis the recalcitrant distributors.

The history of shame
The story isn't entirely new. An alleged cartel between 1997 and 2000 was what prompted a particularly long legal battle, as this is the third time the issue is examined by the Court of Appeal, the two previous decisions being challenged before the Court of Cassation. In both cases, the senior judges had asked for a retrial on appeal. You can see the newspaper clipping depicted from 2006 (click photo to enlarge)

Interestingly, the amount of the total fine now was reduced from 46.2 million euros to 40.20 euros.

photo clipping and article in full linked here

Hermes to Join Donors at The Department of Olfactory Art at The Museum of Arts and Design

Good news for the inclusion of know-how and artistry in the olfactory art exhibition at the NYC Museum of Arts and Design. Hermès has become a 2012 Major Donor to The Department of Olfactory Art.

Hermès’ gift is earmarked for the exclusive use of the Department of Olfactory Art and its activities. To quote Chandler Burr, the curator of the exhibition: "As you all know, I’m particularly familiar with Hermès Parfums’ in-house artist, Jean-Claude Ellena, and am extremely happy to have Hermès, this great house founded in 1837, as a donor."
Like The Estée Lauder Companies, P&G Prestige, Chanel, and Guerlain, Hermès will have a seat on the Department of Olfactory Art’s Advisory Board.

Perfume Quotes: Habit Rouge [Genre (tres) masculin]

Promotion for fragrances don't have to involve much to be suggestive and to stir the imagination. Forget bimbos rolling on the bed, blinged out couples coupling amourously and lots of skin display; forget long tirades extolling the virtues of precious ingredients and mellifluous emotion. A mere suggestion and a quote from a legendary celebrity saying they found a fragrance to have an influence in their lives is enough.

Behold a photo shot by Peter Lindberg for Guerlain's classic masculine fragrance Habit Rouge, genre: (tres) masculin. [translation: Gender: (very) masculine].

Habit Rouge refers to the red riding jacket donned by gentlemen in equestrian days. Of course!

And then you have Keith Richards, of Rolling Stones infamous celebrity, reminscing in his memoirs about choosing Guerlain's Habit Rouge as his signature scent [Mick Jagger prefers Chanel Cuir de Russie]:

"One minute no chick in the world. No f*cking way, and they're going la la la la la. And the next they're sniffing around. And you're going wow, when I changed from Old Spice to Habit Rouge, things definitely got better."
 ~Keith Richards, 'Life'

quote thanks to yum_yum/mua

L'Artisan Parfumeur Love Messages: Have a Tree Planted, Win Perfume Bottles

L'Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are designed to arouse emotions and the company would like you to express yours as part of the new LOVE MESSAGES ‘happening’.Visit L'Artisan in their boutiques and corners from January 30th, pick up paper hearts and compose your heart-felt or amusing love messages, then place them in the giant bottles. The more the merrier; as for every 20 love messages received, a tree will be planted in Mali. And by the way, you will also have the chance to win fragrances! (for yourself or loved ones.)

Again this year (2011 saw 500 trees planted!), L'Artisan Parfumeur is working in partnership with TREE AID, an NGO that supports development and reforestation in Mali. The company chose this West African nation in honour of the iconic fragrance Timbuktu: this warm, sensual and bewitching elixir was inspired by Bertrand Duchaufour’s journey to this fascinating country.

Love messages event runs from: January 30th to March 30th.
Leave your love messages in the boutiques and on the L'Artisan Parfumeur Facebook page.
PS: Fragrances to be won for the most original messages...

Winter 2011-12 Top Fragrances & Other Stuff

Who, at the first sign of frost, doesn't long to be wrapped in an oversized cashmere throw, sit by the fire, grab a good book, and sip something spiked and fragrant while the snowflakes outside are dancing the polka? January's chilly winds and all too brief days call for heavier knits, formal furs to banish the cold and an inferno of fragrance to get through it all; and cold it has been, unusually so this year for this corner of Europe!

Seeking warmth in your perfume can be a subtle reassurance in cold weather, but it can also be fun to try to match, getting the fragrance notes to smell painstakingly pure as if emerging out of a snow bath Venus-like off the waves. There is indeed a two-pronged approach to choosing personal fragrance for winter wearing:
One is to go for traditional oriental elements, warm resins and balsams, rich florals and amber blends; creating contrast and invoking via perfume-magic mellower lands where the night is always warm and bodies radiate the heat of blood rushing to the skin's surface. Another, more unusual one, is akin to homeopathy: inject a bit of cool silkiness to the routine, letting the outside cold enhance the silvery, metallic qualities of the perfume. Therefore throw in a mix of irises, artemisia, wormwood, angelica and gentian essences, cool celebral notes, and sour frankincense smoke that trails behind like the ashes off an extinguished censer...
It's also just the time for precious vintages (do a search on PerfumeShrine for plenty of ideas on those) and for parfums fourrure, since putting these perfumes on is as enveloping as donning my fur jacket and you wouldn't don a fur jacket in August, would you?

Monica Belluci and Alain Delon forAnnabella

Here are some of the fragrances and other stuff in my rotation this winter to stir the senses and banish (or embrace, if you like!) the cold.

Guerlain Tonka Impériale 
Wearing it on winter sweaters and scarfs (where it clings for days, radiating seductively) is akin to getting caressed by a honey mink étole, smelling fine cigars in a salon de thé serving the most delicious almond pralines on panacotta.

Caron Poivre
As warm as a fur coat, as arresting as pepper spray, a pas de deux on clove and carnation blossoms; or the scent of Cruella de Vil. I bring out the sable and pretend I'm wicked!

Armani Prive Bois d'Encens 
A clean smoky incense that wafts from the forests on the cool wintery air, gloomy cedars silently silhouetted in the distance.
 

Editions des Parfums F.Malle Angéliques sous la Pluie 
Rained upon angelicas, a celestial gin & tonic on the rocks, refreshingly bitter with the cool edge of seeing snowcapped stone fences just across the road.

La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens
Myrrh gum is part of ecclesiastical incense alongside frankincense for millenia. You would expect an oriental, full of resinous mystery, going by the name, right? Lutens goes one better and infuses the bitter ambience of myrrh with candied mandarin rind and citrusy aldehydes which bring this on the upper plane of an airy aldehydic. Somehow it wears lightly but solemnly too and it resembles nothing else on the market. Cool days bring La Myrrhe's attibutes to the fore and it remains amongst my most precious possessions.

And of course, Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum 
If you yearn for the sweetly pungent and at the same time totally "fabricated" smell of a good, old-school leather fragrance...then the fragrance release introduced by the Bottega Veneta brand (the apex of leather luxury) is set to stir your heart with unbridled longing. And deservedly so: Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum is unquestionably "mighty fine"; it made it both to my Top 2011 Best Fragrances list and my Autumn Sensuous Discoveries list. Now it's on my Top Winter things list too. Figures...

I'm also crazy about discovering Nostalgie by Sonoma Scent Studio. There's a sheen sans pareil about wearing a graceful floral aldehydic smack in the middle of winter, everything just seems to sparkle brighter under the tentative sun! In that vein, expect a review of the graceful L'Ame Soeur by Divine and an update on its slightly re-orchestrated reissue shortly on these pages!

my personal shot of Guerlain Tonka Imperiale

Winter is also the time to indulge in some body pampering. Heavy oils and unctuous creams suddenly seem welcome, decadent, like a deserved small luxury.This winter I have seriously lost myself into the scentscape of vanilla pods, almonds & toasted cereals of Cacharel's Gloria Bath & Body Oil. I also regularly turn to L'Occitane Creme Ultra Riche, crammed full with shea butter, for all topical dry skin emergencies.

Food-wise, winter weekends is the time to make time-consuming, elaborate dishes like Armenian "manti", called Tatar Böregi in Turkey (recipe to follow on subsequent post), full of the warming aroma of all spice, cinnamon, cumin and clove. I also love to prepare home-made halwa with semolina, raisins and roasted pine nuts. Yum!

pic via mantrakina.blogspot.com

Intellectually I have been stimulated through work mainly this season. But off-work hasn't been totally idle.
I took an interest to John A. Hall’s “Ernest Gellner: An Intellectual Biography", recounting the exiling of intellectuals of Eastern Europe because of communism and Nazism. The relaxed pace of an evening by the fire also perfectly fits reading poems by Emily Dickinson and Kostas Karyotakis thanks to their slow pace and melancholy. I also caught The Girl with the Dragon Tatoo in cinemas this winter: It's atmospheric and suprisingly loyal to the original Swedish version, so if you need a rec, go watch it!

Please visit the other fine participating blogs in this project for more ideas:
All I am a Redhead, I smell therefore I am, Katie Puckrik Smells, The Non Blonde, Under the Cupola, Waft...what a fragrance fanatic thinks.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine:

Poll: Readers Suggest Fragrances to Warm You in the Cold ,

Sunny Fragrances to Beat the Winter Cold

The clip comes from the 2004 film "Weeping Meadow" (Το λιβάδι που δακρύζει) by Greek film director Theo Aggelopoulos, who died last Tuesday. Music by Eleni Karaindrou.

original photo on top Winter Leaves by Eric Begin/Flickr, some rights reserved

Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist: fragrance review

Iris Silver Mist clearly isn't for everyone. Balls to the wall iris, carrot dirt rootiness, bread sourdough and raw potato starch are attached to every drop of this crepuscular, bellowing Lutensian opus, turning urban life into a gothic tale where the heroine is carried away dead in a grand duc. Iris Silver Mist is unsettingly unusual as if you looked into the abyss once and now the abyss is looking at you. How can you not love it?

In a rare dicrepancy with the tenure to follow of Chris Sheldrake at the helm of perfume development at the Salons du Palais Royal Serge Lutens perfumes, perfumer Maurice Roucel was instructed to compose an iris fragrance to eclipse all others.
The year was 1994 and Iris Silver Mist came out on the skies like Phaethon to cast a prolonged, melancholic shadow over mortals. But the perfume is in discrepancy with the Lutensian style up to a point as well; eschewing the opulent orientalia of dried fruits, resins and creamy notes, it goes for a wonderfully weird effect that is loud even though it appears to be the silent type; a sort of Schopenhauer being recited off the rooftops, for modern Emos romanticizing depression.
Years later Lutens softened the pitch and caressed the iris into a greener, silky hush in his enigmatically sensuous Bas de Soie fragrance.

The power of the fragrance is deceptive: you'd think that iris is a shy, pale note that rings metallic and sits meekly at its corner, but no. Orris absolute (the product from the iris rhizome) can run the gamut from floral to woody to gourmand to powdery smelling.
Iris Silver Mist beats with a thunder drum, thick as fog you'd need to cut through with a knife; powdery and cooly rooty, eating away every other scent it co-habitates with, be it skin, potion or foe.

Roucel used not only orris rhizome but also Irival (or orris floraline), a nitrile-containing fragrance compound (a perfumer's base, produced by International Flavors & Fragrances) with a stentorian voice heard over the buzz of common routine; coupled with the scimitar of galbanum, its bitter green resinous facet boosting the feel of the first hour on the skin, and a tiny hint of carnation, iris becomes truly sinister with a yeasty quality about it. The familiar cedar base of Lutens is given an extra austere profile in Iris Silver Mist, with the subdued, cooling woody backdrop of vetiver and the prolonged powderiness of musk, almost a sigh through blueish lips.

Be aware that the Irival base is moderately skin sensitising; Iris Silver Mist, alongside the equally lovely Iris Gris by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, have been the only two perfumes to ever give me a topical itch and redness. Use on clothes preferably.

Iris Silver Mist is a Paris exclusive, circulating in the uniform bell-shaped bottles of the exclusive line (75ml).

The photo depicts the limited edition bell jar (flacon de table) of Iris Silver Mist, showing the beating heart and veins of iris...

"Watching Alice rise year after year
Up in her palace, she's captive there"





photo Ron Reeder "Death and the Maiden V4" via pcnw.org

Patricia de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender: fragrance review

Heliotrope is at once deep, soft and mysterious, a note traversing the rainbow from the yellow of vanilla pods and almond, to the light blue and green of anise right to newly mown hay. Kiss Me Tender by Parisian niche brand Patricia de Nicolaï feels like being submerged in a warm bathtub on a cool evening, the translucence of water clouded by the full range of the delicate, powdered notes of heliotrope.

The simplicity of structure in Kiss Me Tender shouldn't fool us into believing there is no skill involved. Heliotrope might be a full perfume in itself, but De Nicolaï weaves it both subtly and deliciously, a hint of retro without ever falling into the pit of dated. If you always liked the powdered aniseed core of the classic L'Heure Bleue perfume but found it too mature, rejoice: the main components ~anise, orange blossom and synthetic heliotropin (for heliotrope notes, as the flower cannot be extracted)~ are present in both the classic Guerlain and the newer Patricia de Nicolaï; it might all be in the genes, the woman derives from Guerlain stock after all! (For those who don't know, she's the grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain). But it's more than that just modernising and streamlining a beloved structure and one of the quintessentially Guerlain notes. It's underscoring it with a freshness and tenderness like never before.

The almondy facets in Kiss Me Tender bolstered by vanilla overlap into the gourmand oriental fragrance group; tempered, good-mannered sweet, a touch of white pastry confectionary like marzipan accented with spicy bites that are just this side of edgy. The hay facet is clearly discernible, over abstract solar notes (salicylates) of ylang ylang and non-indolic jasmine, floating on a watery pong, the two woven in the ethereal way of Hermès Vanille Galante.

More delicate and subtle with skin-soft musky notes than livilier interpretations of the note (such as the latest versions of Guerlain's Apres L'Ondée which are eclipsing the violet in lieu of heliotropin) Kiss Me Tender comes closer to the feel of being wrapped by goose down in L'Eau d'Hiver (F.Malle) or the lighter interpetations of Shalimar and Habit Rouge; after all it shares the flou, hazy base of opoponax resin with the latter two. The deviant, fresh and slightly green, minty-anisic top note takes Kiss Me Tender on a different track than the usually opressive routes of other gourmand or floriental fragrances built on almond and gives it a unisex aspect that men might enjoy too. (The trick of coupling anise with vanilla for lightening the latter is working for Jo Malone in Vanilla & Anise as well.)
For its elegance and versatility, Kiss Me Tender is a must-try for those who always sought for a discreet daytime heliotrope fragrance but probably a bit too pastel for those who like their floral orientals hard-core and khol-eyed.

Notes for Patricia de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender:
vanilla, aniseed, almond, heliotrope, fresh cut hay

Kiss Me Tender is available in 30ml/1oz for 39 euros or 100ml/3.4oz for 99 euros of Eau de Parfum available on the official Patricia de Nicolaï site and select stockists.

Versace Yellow Diamond: Fragrance Samples to Grab

Readers will have the limited-time opportunity to receive a deluxe sample of Yellow Diamond, the newest Versace perfume which we had announced on these pages a while ago.

Visitors simply enter their information into a form available on the Facebook page, and the boxed deluxe sample will arrive within 90 days. The Facebook page visitors will also find the official video campaign for Yellow Diamond, while connecting with other fans. Dedicated to providing Versace fragrance enthusiasts with a highly-interactive forum to discuss and engage with one another, the Yellow Diamond Facebook page puts the brilliance of the scent’s luminosity front and center on your computer screen.

Click on the Yellow Diamond Versace Facebook link and log in for a luxurious and one-of-a-kind experience brought to you by Versace!

 

Chronology, Comparison & Photos of Miss Dior (Cherie) Various Editions & Reformulations: How to Spot the One You Like

It was a few months ago I was venting on the reformulation and name change of a very popular Dior perfume, the coquette Miss Dior Chérie which became...Miss Dior, thus changing the course of history forever for the young generations. The issue is both puzzling and enraging enough and you can (re)read my previous article if you like, but I realized that what many people are asking for is how to differentiate between the various editions and how to spot the older Miss Dior Chérie from the reformulated one.
So here's a short guide with photos to help you pick the right one; the one you meant to buy.

First of all, according to the official claims the new version of Miss Dior (Cherie in parenthesis, because that's what it is a version of) (2011) is "subtler and more refined" than the original from 2005 created by perfumer Christine Nagel. If we're to do a Miss Dior Chérie 2005 vs. 2011 edition comparison, the new edition is credited to perfumer Francois Demachy and starts on a different premise: 'Dior's girl is grown up and is now a woman who loves' (instead of one who flirts, we're led to believe), fronted in the advertisements by Natalie Portman, but the truth is much of the character that made Miss Dior Chérie so much a love-it-or-hate-it fragrance is lost, the tart strawberry jam note and the caramelic pop-corn is watered down and all we're left with is a generic sweet top, a white floral note and sanitised patchouli. But that's just my own opinion; don't mind me too much, I always thought the old was rather unpalatable, though it possessed conviction & character. But what is now admitted officially, was a fact even before 2011! A while ago the Dior fragrance was already reformulated, even though it circulated under the full name (see below for photos and captions).

Miss Dior Chérie EDP (Christine Nagel 2005) will be available on the market while stocks las (the last reformulation before the 2011 one will be as well), and the new edition Miss Dior (Chérie) EDP (Francois Demachy 2011) will replace it completely.
The reason of course being that Miss Dior Chérie outsells the original Miss Dior by a wide margin...

click to enlarge

The rather confusing Miss Dior (Chérie) line comprises so far:
Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Parfum 2005 (Christine Nagel original)
Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Toilette 2007 (this version eventually obtained the white label instead of the silver writing on the bottle, like the later reformulated EDP)
Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Printemps 2008 (limited edition),
Miss Dior Chérie Blooming Bouquet 2008 (exclusive for the Asian market)
Miss Dior Chérie L'Eau 2009 (a completely different fragrance, a "flanker")
Miss Dior (Chérie) Eau de Parfum 2011 (Demachy reformulation)
Miss Dior Eau Fraiche Eau de Toilette (new flanker for spring 2012)
Miss Dior (Chérie) Le Parfum (August 2012)

Miss Dior Chéri EDP 2005

Miss Dior Cherie EDP reformulated 2008

Miss Dior Cherie~ L.to R: Eau, EDP, EDT 2008 presentation

Miss Dior (Cherie) reformulated 2011 "couture" edition

The confusion happens with the Eau de Parfum (EDP) mainly as this is the sought-after version. The older original 2005 bottles had a silver writing on the bottle, while the white label was introduced sometime in 2008 (as attested by the Maryna Linchuck commercials). Please be warned that a perceptable reformulation happened in 2010 to both EDP and EDT, when the Eau de Toilette version was remade in 2010.

Miss Dior Originale EDT 2011

The classic 1947 Miss Dior now circulates in Eau de Toilette (and extrait de parfum) as Miss Dior Originale. The extrait de parfum of the Cherie declination (now simply presented as Miss Dior as well) is thankfully distinguishable by the bottle design which is close to that of the pinkish Cherie juice and bears a ribbon bow. The body lotion comes in both the Cherie and the original 1947 scent, the latter distinguishable by the moniker "Diortendre" below the Miss Dior name.

Miss Dior Eau Fraiche edt 2012

Imagine the confusion when spring 2012 will see the introduction of Miss Dior Eau Fraiche by Dior, blending not only one classic fragrance in the mix but two! (Dior Eau Fraiche is an Edmond Roudnitska perfume composition from the 1950s).

Adding that August 2012 sees the introduction of Miss Dior ((Chérie) Le Parfum, an extrait version of the reformulated Demachy juice, fronted by Natalie Portman in the ads.
As you can see in the pic below the bottle is identical to the 2008 reformulated EDP but with Le Parfum written under the "Miss Dior" tag.

There's a circle in hell reserved for Parfums Dior for confusing us so!
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Related reading on Perfume Shrine: the Christian Dior fragrance reviews

You can also check PerfumeShrine's previous entries on the different flankers/perfume editions of Dior Poisons, the many flankers/limited editions of Dior best-seller J'Adore, the super confusing group of fragrance editions by Rodriguez Narciso For Her with their differences highlighted, the Etro Via Verri original and reformulated editions, the Shiseido Zen perfume editions, the several fragrance editions of Flower by Kenzo compared to one another (with pics) and Hermes Merveilles perfume range different editions.

some photos via sassisamblog.com

By Kilian Asian Tales: new fragrances

Kilian Hennesy of the niche, luxe perfume brand By Kilian is announcing a new collection of fragrances, codenamed "Asian Tales by Kilian" or L'Oeuvre Rouge because the familiar black-laquered boxes now boast a scarlet lining and a chinese coin on a red ribbon instead of the little key we knew from L'Oeuvre Noire. The new fragrance line comprises five fragrant editions that will recount the tradition of the Far East and pay homage to this great culture.

For 2012 two releases are scheduled, to be unveiled in Milano next March at the Esxence exhibition, both by perfumer Calice Becker who did the majority of the Kilian fragrances so far: Water Calligraphy is focusing on the artistic merits of eastern calligraphy and its rich tradition. Harmony Bamboo is inspired by The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter, a Japanese folk tale.

Notes for By Kilian Water Calligraphy:

grapefruit zest, cherry blossom, water lily
magnolia, jasmine sambac
cardamom and vetiver

Notes for By Kilian Bamboo Harmony:

bright notes of bergamot, neroli and orange bigarade
white tea leaves, mimosa, illuminated by a touch of spice
rare essence of mate, fig leaves and oak moss

The rest of the Asian Tales by Kilian line will launch successively in the following seasons, inspired in turn by The Peony Pavillion (2013), The Peach Flowers Water Source (2014), and The Lotus Flower and the King Dragon (2015).

What Makes a Perfume a Classic?

What are the perfume classics and why are they classics? Do they have something in common that has made them "the classics"? What exactly makes something a classic? Like in other areas of art, there is a finite number of options.

*innovation/echoing the zeitgeist

*timeless beauty

*endurance/longevity, so that it becomes a reference point

An objet d’art should express its times (or pre-empty the future) with such tremendous force and conviction that it should be on the vanguard of an entirely new direction. This is usually done through technical and artistic innovation. For instance Coty’s Chypre [with its streamlined formula and the archetypal harmony of bergamot (a citrus) ~cistus labdanum (a sweet resin) ~oakmoss (a bitter, earthy lichen)], as well as Chanel No.5 (with its abstract impression and huge dose of synthetic aldehydes, unusual at the times) and Dior’s Eau Sauvage (a citrusy-mossy cologne for men with a floral heart of hedione, i.e.green translucent jasmine note) have paved the way for hundreds of upstarts, thus swaying the direction of perfume-making for decades. To bring a musical analogy: “The first Velvet Underground album only sold 10,000 copies, but everyone who bought it formed a band.”

Something could also be harmonious in an eternally beautiful way, pleasant to an 18th century patrician and a 21st century city-slicker alike, like a bust of Aphrodite. Like a concerto for violin by J.S Bach endures because it creates an inner sense of harmony with the universe, while a tune by Milli Vanilli is ultimately forgettable. Some fragrances possess a timeless appeal, removed from vagaries of trends. Joy by Jean Patou, predominantly built on the nectarous qualities of very expensive raw materials, the best rose and jasmine essences, is not particularly innovative, but beautiful all the same. The Jean Marie Farina Eau de Cologne formula is also such an example of timeless appeal. Simultaneously the Eau de Cologne is the mother-mould of all light, citrusy and herbal “eaux” to follow. Humans tending to find olfactory pleasurable what is familiar to them, the second criterion meets the first (innovation that gets imitated and therefore becomes familiar) and is interwoven with the third (market endurance).

Since perfume as a sold commodity has market considerations beyond the merely artistic, a perfume cannot survive the passage of time without enough people buying it in the first place. It needs a continued sustenance on the real market, and often a best-selling status as well, to establish itself as a true classic. Several of the classics we refer to as such nowadays, such as Guerlain’s Shalimar, Chanel No.5, Lanvin Arpège, Miss Dior, Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, Lauder Youth Dew, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, YSL Opium, have been huge best-selling fragrances in their times and continue to circulate in one form or another to this day.
It doesn’t matter if Iris Gris by Jacques Fath or Nombre Noir by Shiseido might be more beautiful than L’Air du Temps (roughly contemporary with the Fath fragrance); precious few people have ever smelled the former two to establish them as a yardstick.

One thing we need to differentiate is between classic and dated: “Dated” is a fragrance that has ceased to be in dialogue with the needs and aspirations of the times. The violet and rose waters of the Victorian times now seem obsolete, simplistic and without touch with the zeitgeist. Some of the fragrances of the 1930s, like some in the Jean Patou Ma Collection perfumes series, are decidedly old-fashioned, with a retro halo. Sometimes a sense of nostalgia, or, more poignantly, the desire to nostalgize about that which we have not personally known, overwhelms the perfume lover who then explores these retro fragrances with gusto. It’s human nature: we always think the past held greater passion and glamour than it actually had.

What about YOU: What do you appreciate in a classic perfumes and what makes a perfume classic to you?

photo of Greta Garbo via planetsipul.blogspot , photo Robert Mapplethorpe and the Classical Tradition

Optical Scentsibilities: When Perfume Becomes... Foundation

Homage or "clopyright"? [This is a pun from the Greek, from "κλοπή/clopy" -pronounced clo-PEE- which means...theft]. You be the judge, what do you think?

Paris Perfume Shopping Addresses: Quick Index

In the interests of supplementing the Paris Shopping Guide on these pages (replete with Parisian memoirs on shopping & browsing at the mecca of perfumery, including visits at Guerlain, Caron, F.Malle, Serge Lutens, L'Artisan Parfumeur etc.) I am including a few specific addresses with underground directions for anyone going to Paris for a St.Valentine's vacation or just for reference, in alphabetical order.

Abdul samad Al Quarashi, 45 Avenue George V. 75008 Annick Goutal, 14 rue de Castiglione, 1st. Metro: Tuileries.
Arabian Oud, 63 Champs Elysees (perhaps the only place in Europe outside of London where one can find good arabian oils)
By Terry 10 Avenue Victor Hugo Metro Station: Charles de Gaulle L'etoile, and at 36, Passage Vero Dodat. Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre. [Except By Terry' products, the store also stocks Patyka]
Caron, 90 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, 1st. (in front of the Presidential Palace) Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt.
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, Tuilleries, Madeleine. According to Chanel's website, Les Exclusifs fragrances are also sold at 42 Avenue Montaigne and at 9, Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore
Cire Trudon candles 78, rue de Seine - 75006 Metro: Mabillon
Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honore, 1st. Metro: Tuileries. [eclectic niche selection]
Comme des Garcons23 Place du Marche Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Pyramides
Cote Bastide, 4, Rue de Poissy Metro Station: Maubert Mutualite
Detaille 10, Rue St Lazare. Metro Station: Notre-Dame de Lorette
Des Filles a la Vanille, 150 Boulevard Saint-Germain. Metro Station: Mabilon
Dior, 30 Avenue Montaigne. Metro Station: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Diptyque, 34, boulevard saint germain, or 49 Avenue Victor Hugo
The Different Company, 10 rue Ferdinand Duval, 4th. Metro: Saint-Paul.
Etat Libre d'Orange, 69 rue des Archives, 4th. Metro: Rambuteau.
Etro, 66 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Champs Elysees Clemenceau, Madeleine.
Frederic Malle, Editions de Parfums, 37 rue de Grenelle, 7th. Metro: Rue du Bac.
Fragonard, 51, Rue Francs Bourgeois. Metro Station: Rambuteau, Saint Paul
Fragonard Museum & Shop 39, Boulevard des Capucines (opposite L'Olympia). Metro Station: Opera, Madeleine
Guerlain, 68 avenue des Champs-Elysees, 8th. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt.
Hermès24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Madeleine. Also at 42, Avenue George V. Metro Station: George V and at 17 Rue de Sèvres. Metro Station: Sevres Babylone
Indult102 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Saint-Philippe du Roule
IUNX at Hotel Costes [Olivia Giacobetti fragrances], 239 rue Saint-Honore, 1st. Metro: Tuileries.
JAR, 24 rue de Castiglione, 1st. Metro: Tuileries.
JEAN PATOU PARIS, 5, rue de Castiglione 75001 (very close to the chanel boutique at place Vendôme)
Jovoy, 29 rue Danielle Casanova, 1st. Metro: Pyramides/Opera.
Jo Malone, 326 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
L'Artisan Parfumeur 32, rue du Bourg Tibourg and 34 Rue Francs
Les Bains de Marais, 33 Clos des Blancs-Manteaux. Metro Station: Rambuteau
Les Beaux Draps de Jeannine Cros, carrying Les Nez fragrances, 11, rue d'Assas 75006 Paris. Tue. - Sat.11.00 AM - 13.30 PM 14.30 PM - 19.00 PM Closed on Monday
Le Prince Jardinier, 39, Rue de Valois (Palais Royal). Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre, Bourse
Les Parfums de Rosine,105, Galerie de Valois, Palais Royal (close to Serge Lutens at Le Palais Royal). Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre, Bourse
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, 5 rue des Capucines, 1st. Metro: Opera.
Les Nereides, 5, Rue Bourg l'Abbe. Metro Station: Etienne Marcel.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 5 rue d'Alger, 1st. Metro: Tuileries. Custom-made scents by appointment, phone +33 142 774 033.
Martin Margiela, 23 Rue de Montpensier Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre
Mariage Freres, teas and delicatessen, 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, Paris 4e
Marie Antoinette, Place du marché Sainte Catherine -75004
Miller et Bertaux, 15, Rue Ferdinand Duval. Metro Station: Saint-Paul, Pont-Marie
Montale Tanelli 26 place Vendome
Olivier Durbano, 34 Rue des Francs Bourgeois Metro Station: Saint Paul . Workspace; by appointment only.
L'Osmothèque, 36, rue du Parc de Clagny. Note: Reservation required.
Parfums de Nicolai (Patricia de Nicolai), 28 rue de Richelieu, 1st. Metro: Palais Royal and 69 rue Poincare (m.Victor Hugo)
Parfums de Rosine, Jardin du Palais Royal, 105 Galerie de Valois, Metro: Palais Royal.
Reminiscence, 22, Rue du Four. Metro Station: Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Mabillon
Salons du Palais-Royal Shiseido [Serge Lutens fragrances], 142 Galerie de Valois, 1st. Metro: Palais Royal.
Sens Unique [niche selection], Rue du Roi de Sicile 13, 75004 which carries a selection of Amouage | by Kilian | David Jourquin | Etat Libre d'Orange | Evody | Hilde Soliani | Honoré des Prés | Huitième Art | Humiecki & Graef | ICONOfly | Laboratorio Olfativo | Maison Francis Kurkdjian | MDCI | Odin | Olfactive Studio | Parfumerie Generale | Poiray | Stéphanie de Saint Aignan | Technique Indiscrète | Undergreen Natural Perfume | Von Eusersdorff
Teo Cabanel, 23, Boulevard du General Leclerc /23, Boulevard du General Leclerc, Fontainebleau
Tocca, 44 Rue Etienne Marcel. Metro Station: Sentier

A selection of niche perfumes (including Lubin) are also found at Le Bon Marche (24 rue de Sevres, 7th. Metro: Sevres-Babylone) and on the ground floor of Printemps de la Beaute (64 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th. Metro: Chaussee d'Antin). Sephora on the Champs-Élysées (next to the Guerlain flagship store) carries a quite wide variety of niche offerings (Lutens, Different Company, etc.)


Worthy of note as well:
Arty Dandy, 1 Rue de Furstemberg. Metro Station: St-Germain-des-Pres or Mabillon. Brands: Histoires de Parfums, Juliette has a Gun, Linari, Six Scents, The Scent of Departure
Belle de Jour, 7, Rue Tardieu. The store specialized in old perfume bottles and Art Deco objects. (Sells E.Coudray and Jardin de France).
BHV, Acqua di Parma, Annick Goutal, Atelier Cologne, E.Coudray, Evody, Esteban, Etat Libre d'Orange, L'Artisan, Molton Brown, Molinard, Serge Lutens, Teo Cabanel etc.
Nose, 20 Rue Bachaumont. Metro: Sentier. Carries: Acqua Di Parma, Atelier Cologne, By Kilian, biehl. parfumkunstwerke, Cale Fragranze d'Autore, Costume National, Cowshed, Cire Trudon, Diptyque, D.R.Harris, Floris, Frapin, Heeley, Histoires de Parfums, Juliette has a Gun, Keiko Mecheri, Lorenzo Villoresi, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Linari, Mark Buxton, Miller Harris, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Odin, Penhaligon's, Robert Piguet, The Different Company, The Laundress, Ulrich Lang.
Pharmacie du Palais des Congres, 2 Place de la Porte Maillot. Metro Station: Porte Maillot. Brands: Acqua di Parma*, Comptoir Sud Pacifique, Menard, Molinard, ROGER & GALLET, Rigaud

Add your own if you have them in the comments, so I can keep this up to date!

source,, photo via hipparis.com

Definition: Resinous & Balsamic Fragrances

One of the most elusive terms in fragrance terminology appears to be -according to readers' comments- "resinous" and "balsamic", as relating to perfumes. The raw materials falling under the umbrella of resins and balsams are among the most ancient components of perfumes, often the basis of the Oriental family of scents and lending their soothing opulence and depth to other families, such as the Chypres. They make their appearence known in any category though: florals, fougères, hesperidics also benefit from a touch here and there.

The distinction between resin and balsam is one of form, on a fundamental level: Simply put and generalising, resinous materials come in the form of solidified, gum-like "tears" seeping from the elixir vitae circulating into the bark of big trees, such as the Boswellia Carteri (which produces frankincense). Balsams on the other hand are trickly materials, not necessarily tree secretions, often coming as they do from flower pods or bushy twigs (such as vanilla orchids or the Mediterranean rockrose). But there are exceptions to every rule: Opopanax, though resinous smelling itself, actually comes from a herb, opopanax chironium.
So the real focus when referencing balsamic and resinous terminology is how the materials actually smell and how they're different or common in scent, rather than what their origin is. 
Therefore, for ease, resinous & balsamic materials are classified into 3 distinct olfactory profiles according to their aromatic properties first and foremost.

Soft balsamic smelling ingredients include:

• vanilla (from the vanilla orchid, the rich pod having a more complex rum-like note than the popular synthetic ethyl vanillin)

• benzoin gum (from Styrax Tonkiniensis with a sweetish, caramel and vanillic facet; benzoin Siam or benzoin Sumatra are used in perfumery)

• Peru balsam (coming from the Myroxylon, ~literally "fragrant wood" in Greek~ or Quina/Balsamo, a different species of which also produces Tolu balsam)

• Tolu balsam (close to Peru balsam, but a little sweeter and fresher)

• cistus labdanum (leathery, ambery, deep, coming from the rockrose bush and traditionally harvested from the hairs of goats who had grazed on the rockrose).

These materials have a gentle tone, while at the same time they're softly enveloping and have a pronounced character. They fix flowers into lasting longer and thanks to their properties when used in large quantities produce the semi-Orientals or the florientals (in conjunction with rich floral essences). 
A great example of a fragrance featuring copious amounts of Tolu balsam is Tolu perfume by Ormonde Jayne. The opulence of the balsamic note mollifies the rest of the composition, giving the golden sheen of a multi-faceted citrine. Tolu also makes floral notes more candied: in Fracas by Piguet it acts on the tuberose, on Gold by Donna Karan it enhances the ambery lily.
Compare and contrast with the balsamic base of Guerlain's Vol de Nuit which features a generous helping of Peru balsam; the oriental accord gives it its opulence under the green top note. In Ambre Sultan by Lutens, Peru balsam pairs with its traditional counterpart, an oriental amber accord. Elixir des Merveilles is another one which features balsam of Peru for its sweetly grounding qualities.

For labdanum, grab Donna Karan Labdanum, L'Air du desert Marocain by Andy Tauer, La Labo Labdanum 18 or Madame X by Ava Luxe: they're full of it.
The purest incarnation of benzoin in non gum form is Papier d'Armenie, the traditional scented little papers in a cute notebook, which burnt produce a clearing, anti-microbial atmosphere to one's home. Short of that, if you don't travel to Europe often, you can get a sample of Bois d'Armenie by Guerlain, or Prada Candy. Benzoin is very versatile spanning the fragrance families from citrus to woods and florals and its heft is therefore used frequently as it complements the other notes beautifully. Chanel's Coromandel fuses the vanilla-cinnamon notes of benzoin with a white chocolate note to render a delicious and sophisticated gourmand fragrance. Both benzoin and Tolu balsam make up the surprisingly monastic backdrop of Bal a Versailles by Jean Desprez, allied to the austerity of cedar.

If you are seeking a lush balsamic composition with multi-nuanced orientalia, seek no further than Mecca Balsam by La via del Profumo; it features labdanum, real oud and franckincense as well, so it's a composite that allows one to see how categories can be combined.

Vanillic fragrances are of course widely understood by everyone, so another article of a different scope, focusing on their merits and faults, is in order.

Resinous balsamic smelling ingredients include:

• opoponax/opopanax (also called "sweet myrrh" ~though no relation~ from the Opopanax chironium herb, scented between lavender & amber)

• frankincense/olibanum (the lemony-top, smoky smelling "tears" of the Boswellia carteri tree, called lubbān in Arabic)

• myrrh gum (a waxy oleoresin with a bitterish profile from the Commiphora myrrha)

• birch tar (from "cooked" birch wood, tar-smelling)

• elemi (a peppery, lemony, pine-like yellow oil coming from the steam-distilled or treated with volatile solvents resin of the Canarium Lizonicum)

• styrax (resin from the Liquidambar Orientalis tree, with a scent reminiscent of glue and cinnamon)

Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery. Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments. It's no coincidence that the three Magi gave baby Jesus the gifts of Frankincense, Myrrh and Gold. Traditionally used to make incense (King Solomon regarded opoponax as the noblest incense gum), even nowadays in the Middle East and the Mediterranean basin frankincense and myrrh "tears" are the incense par excellence still. These materials are deeper, with a lingering trail which adds originality and projection to a composition. Since they themselves typically come from the bark of trees in the form of crystalised resin "tears", they pair very well with woody scents.

If you want to get a taste of how some of the more "esoteric" of these smell, , say opoponax grab yourself the Diptyque Opopanax scent in either room spray or candle, as well as their Myrrh candle. They provide the scent in isolation. The iconic Shalimar as well as the masculine counterpart Habit Rouge owe their "flou" hazy effect in opoponax allied to orange blossom. For myrrh, Myrrhe Ardente in Les Orientalistes line by Annick Goutal and La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens provide two nuanced and quite different "readings" of the myrrh gum in complex compositions.
Athonite frankincense in the black variety is pure frankincense/olibanum gum (it's pliable when you rub it, like chewing gum), rising in clean, citrusy-smoky ringlets on the air; I burn it on small coal tablets regularly. There are many frankincense fragrances in the niche market, the truer perhaps being Avignon by Comme des Garcons, but the whole Incense Series is to be explored for the truly interested perfume lover.
Tauer's Incense Extrême is a good starting place for frankincense variants, based as it is on the Boswellia serrata (Indian incense) at a 25% concentration.

Birch tar is easily detected in compositions of the Cuir de Russie type (from Chanel Cuir de Russie to Piver's and Guerlain Cuir de Russie). This is also a material that can be classified in the sub-group of phenolic smells. It is pungent and dark.
Elemi is often used in masculine blends to give at the same time cooling piquancy and warmth thanks to its peppery top note: try Gucci by Gucci, notice the top note of L'Instant pour Homme (Guerlain) and the unique Eau de Naphe by Comptoir Sud Pacifique. For styrax, remember that the resin has a leathery facet with incense tonalities (and has been an important supporting player in "Cuir de Russie" compositions, such as Chanel's). Notice it in the drydown of Carven's Ma Griffe, in Poivre 23 by Le Labo and in No.11 Cuir Styrax by Prada. Lutens uses it beautifully in several of his scents, notably in the base note of Tubereuse Criminelle and Cuir Mauresque.

Nota bene that even though fir, pine and copal essences come from coniferous trees themselves,  I am not including them in the resinous and balsamic classification as they're really terpenic-smelling (a perfume definition to be elaborated on in a subsequent article).

There is also a sub-set of powdery balsamic smelling ingredients which do not come in resin or balsam form, therefore they are not classified into this category via origin at all, but rather via their scent profile alone. This includes: orris root (the Iris Pallida rhizome and also the synthetic irones-rich reproductions), several musks of synthetic origin, and carrot seed oil (which can give an orris scent in itself).
Amber mixes (refer to what amber is and its difference from ambergris on this link) can also be powdery balsamic smelling: the inclusion of benzoin (which gives a sweetish, baby talc note) and vanilla in the mix of ingredients in amber is the culprit. In French terminology/classification of orientalised perfumes they're refered to as "parfums ambrés" (even when not entirely focused on amber). For instance Obsession, the original Magie Noire (not the reformulated which is greener, more chypre) or Moschino by Moschino (again the original from 1987) are examples of perfumes "ambrés". It is important NOT to confuse between a balsamic/ambery powdery ambience (which is typically sweeter) and one which is powdery/dry (such as in Aromatics Elixir, Ma Griffe, Flower by Kenzo, DK Cashmere Mist): the two terms though very close are not interchangeable.

In concluding, the necessity of establishing a common language for scent among people who talk about the same perfumes increasingly arises. Even though we commonly use subjective terms to denote our feelings, the proper terminology, in accordance to how perfumers talk among themselves, aids a thorough understanding  and enhances our communicating our impressions on an immediately graspable context. It is this need which we try to address with our articles on Perfume Vocabulary and Definition on PerfumeShrine. If you haven't caught up with our relevant articles, here's what you might have missed:

• Definition: Indolic vs. Non Indolic
• Definition: Lactonic, Creamy, Milky, Butyric
• Definition: Powdery & Dry in Fragrances
• Definition: Soapy in Fragrances
• Definition: Phenolic, Terpenic, Camphoraceous scents
• Definition: Which Material Produces Which Note/Effect?

Photo of resin drops, some rights reserved by flod/flickr, censer pic via St.Dunstan's Priory

Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Capri: new fragrance

A new introduction, a limited edition in the Bronze Goddess summer editions by Lauder. A solar oriental inspired by the wiles of Capri island off the Italian coast named... Bronze Goddess Capri. Exotic waters, long golden days, soft, sultry nights...enough to make you dream!
 

Notes for Lauder Bronze Goddess Capri:
Top: lemon leaves, blackcurrant leaves, mandarin
Heart: peony, lily of the valley, Sambac jasmine
Base: patchouli, vanilla, musk, amberwood

Limited edition 2012 Bronze Goddess Capri will be available as 100 ml Eau Fraiche in travel retail from February 2012, alongside last year's Bronze Goddess.

The Lauder Bronze Goddess line-up has so far included:

Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche Skinscent 2008
Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche 2010
Bronze Goddess 2011
Bronze Goddess Soleil 2011
and the Azuree Soleil from 2007 under Tom Ford's tenure (The formula was renamed Bronze Goddess with minimal change due to Ford's contract coming to en end, but the fragrance being a mega-success for the company who was eager to preserve it).


We have done a side by side comparison of Bronze Goddess Soleil with the previous editions on this review and a comparison between Azuree Soleil and Bronze Goddess on that review.