Montale Luban -incense with guts: fragrance review

 There is a serenity but also a dark horror surrounding incense. The zen and the apocryphal. Which is which, each time? While Kilian's Incense Oud composition is overwhelmingly frankincense dominant rather than aloeswood (oudh), which is exactly why I like it so much, in Montale's Louban, the dominance of frankincense betrays the given pyramid and audience's impressions: there is no distinct oudh with its usual bitter, medicinal and smoky nuance, but neither is it associated with the Middle East, being more reminiscent of Ethiopian dry landscapes with their resinous bushes and trees. 

Nummen by Husvik, via Pinterest

 

Mysterious citrusy-pine effects zing at the top of Montale Louban, as sour and crystal clear white frankincense does (after all, this is what luban means according to our Arab speaking readers) and this overwhelms the nostrils initially. A phase that may be considered sharp by non-mystics, but necessary for the spiritual uplifting and purification that frankincense brings - literally and figuratively.

And because the heat is rising as we speak, coupled with Saharan sand winds that travel over the Mediterranean, this dry incense has been keeping me company for the gloomiest days when the sky is cast with this alien shade of orange-grey that denotes a Saharan gust of sand storm...It's priceless.

Free shipping & Gift Draw at Neela Vermeire Creations

Good news for those who love the Neela Vermeire Creations line. Here is the news snippet I was informed of.

"To celebrate March and International Women's Day next week,
we are offering free shipping only within the EU until the 15th of March and you have a chance to win one of our special numbered amethyst bottle of Mohur Extrait (50 ml) when you purchase any 60 ml EDP flacon."

You know what to do...

www.neelavermeire.com

Patricia de Nicolai: News on Availability and Name Change of Balle de Match

The well known niche brand parfums de Nicolai, working under the aegis of the current president of L'Osmotheque and perfumer par excellence Patricia de Nicolai, has repositioned as discussed previously. In this decision several factors have come in and the effects can be seen and felt in the packaging, brand identity (and "motto") as well as the categorization of fragrances in the portfolio.
In that latter issue, Balle de Match becomes the subject of changes.

via townandcountrymag

The fragrance continues to be produced as an eau de toilette concentration, available in 30ml (36€) αnd 100ml bottles (108€), as is customary for de Nicolai products, but the name changes: from now on, Balle de Match becomes L'Eau de Sport, a cologne for "jeunes sportifs" as claimed on the website. The woody citrus composition, hinging on grapefruit, and an alliance of pink and black pepper, is a refreshing tonic for days when the mood is casual and the style effortless.

Paris Perfume Shopping Addresses: Quick Index

In the interests of supplementing the Paris Shopping Guide on these pages (replete with Parisian memoirs on shopping & browsing at the mecca of perfumery, including visits at Guerlain, Caron, F.Malle, Serge Lutens, L'Artisan Parfumeur etc.) I am including a few specific addresses with underground directions for anyone going to Paris for a St.Valentine's vacation or just for reference, in alphabetical order.

Abdul samad Al Quarashi, 45 Avenue George V. 75008 Annick Goutal, 14 rue de Castiglione, 1st. Metro: Tuileries.
Arabian Oud, 63 Champs Elysees (perhaps the only place in Europe outside of London where one can find good arabian oils)
By Terry 10 Avenue Victor Hugo Metro Station: Charles de Gaulle L'etoile, and at 36, Passage Vero Dodat. Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre. [Except By Terry' products, the store also stocks Patyka]
Caron, 90 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, 1st. (in front of the Presidential Palace) Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt.
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, Tuilleries, Madeleine. According to Chanel's website, Les Exclusifs fragrances are also sold at 42 Avenue Montaigne and at 9, Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore
Cire Trudon candles 78, rue de Seine - 75006 Metro: Mabillon
Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honore, 1st. Metro: Tuileries. [eclectic niche selection]
Comme des Garcons23 Place du Marche Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Pyramides
Cote Bastide, 4, Rue de Poissy Metro Station: Maubert Mutualite
Detaille 10, Rue St Lazare. Metro Station: Notre-Dame de Lorette
Des Filles a la Vanille, 150 Boulevard Saint-Germain. Metro Station: Mabilon
Dior, 30 Avenue Montaigne. Metro Station: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Diptyque, 34, boulevard saint germain, or 49 Avenue Victor Hugo
The Different Company, 10 rue Ferdinand Duval, 4th. Metro: Saint-Paul.
Etat Libre d'Orange, 69 rue des Archives, 4th. Metro: Rambuteau.
Etro, 66 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Champs Elysees Clemenceau, Madeleine.
Frederic Malle, Editions de Parfums, 37 rue de Grenelle, 7th. Metro: Rue du Bac.
Fragonard, 51, Rue Francs Bourgeois. Metro Station: Rambuteau, Saint Paul
Fragonard Museum & Shop 39, Boulevard des Capucines (opposite L'Olympia). Metro Station: Opera, Madeleine
Guerlain, 68 avenue des Champs-Elysees, 8th. Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt.
Hermès24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Madeleine. Also at 42, Avenue George V. Metro Station: George V and at 17 Rue de Sèvres. Metro Station: Sevres Babylone
Indult102 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Metro Station: Saint-Philippe du Roule
IUNX at Hotel Costes [Olivia Giacobetti fragrances], 239 rue Saint-Honore, 1st. Metro: Tuileries.
JAR, 24 rue de Castiglione, 1st. Metro: Tuileries.
JEAN PATOU PARIS, 5, rue de Castiglione 75001 (very close to the chanel boutique at place Vendôme)
Jovoy, 29 rue Danielle Casanova, 1st. Metro: Pyramides/Opera.
Jo Malone, 326 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
L'Artisan Parfumeur 32, rue du Bourg Tibourg and 34 Rue Francs
Les Bains de Marais, 33 Clos des Blancs-Manteaux. Metro Station: Rambuteau
Les Beaux Draps de Jeannine Cros, carrying Les Nez fragrances, 11, rue d'Assas 75006 Paris. Tue. - Sat.11.00 AM - 13.30 PM 14.30 PM - 19.00 PM Closed on Monday
Le Prince Jardinier, 39, Rue de Valois (Palais Royal). Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre, Bourse
Les Parfums de Rosine,105, Galerie de Valois, Palais Royal (close to Serge Lutens at Le Palais Royal). Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre, Bourse
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, 5 rue des Capucines, 1st. Metro: Opera.
Les Nereides, 5, Rue Bourg l'Abbe. Metro Station: Etienne Marcel.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 5 rue d'Alger, 1st. Metro: Tuileries. Custom-made scents by appointment, phone +33 142 774 033.
Martin Margiela, 23 Rue de Montpensier Metro Station: Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre
Mariage Freres, teas and delicatessen, 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, Paris 4e
Marie Antoinette, Place du marché Sainte Catherine -75004
Miller et Bertaux, 15, Rue Ferdinand Duval. Metro Station: Saint-Paul, Pont-Marie
Montale Tanelli 26 place Vendome
Olivier Durbano, 34 Rue des Francs Bourgeois Metro Station: Saint Paul . Workspace; by appointment only.
L'Osmothèque, 36, rue du Parc de Clagny. Note: Reservation required.
Parfums de Nicolai (Patricia de Nicolai), 28 rue de Richelieu, 1st. Metro: Palais Royal and 69 rue Poincare (m.Victor Hugo)
Parfums de Rosine, Jardin du Palais Royal, 105 Galerie de Valois, Metro: Palais Royal.
Reminiscence, 22, Rue du Four. Metro Station: Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Mabillon
Salons du Palais-Royal Shiseido [Serge Lutens fragrances], 142 Galerie de Valois, 1st. Metro: Palais Royal.
Sens Unique [niche selection], Rue du Roi de Sicile 13, 75004 which carries a selection of Amouage | by Kilian | David Jourquin | Etat Libre d'Orange | Evody | Hilde Soliani | Honoré des Prés | Huitième Art | Humiecki & Graef | ICONOfly | Laboratorio Olfativo | Maison Francis Kurkdjian | MDCI | Odin | Olfactive Studio | Parfumerie Generale | Poiray | Stéphanie de Saint Aignan | Technique Indiscrète | Undergreen Natural Perfume | Von Eusersdorff
Teo Cabanel, 23, Boulevard du General Leclerc /23, Boulevard du General Leclerc, Fontainebleau
Tocca, 44 Rue Etienne Marcel. Metro Station: Sentier

A selection of niche perfumes (including Lubin) are also found at Le Bon Marche (24 rue de Sevres, 7th. Metro: Sevres-Babylone) and on the ground floor of Printemps de la Beaute (64 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th. Metro: Chaussee d'Antin). Sephora on the Champs-Élysées (next to the Guerlain flagship store) carries a quite wide variety of niche offerings (Lutens, Different Company, etc.)


Worthy of note as well:
Arty Dandy, 1 Rue de Furstemberg. Metro Station: St-Germain-des-Pres or Mabillon. Brands: Histoires de Parfums, Juliette has a Gun, Linari, Six Scents, The Scent of Departure
Belle de Jour, 7, Rue Tardieu. The store specialized in old perfume bottles and Art Deco objects. (Sells E.Coudray and Jardin de France).
BHV, Acqua di Parma, Annick Goutal, Atelier Cologne, E.Coudray, Evody, Esteban, Etat Libre d'Orange, L'Artisan, Molton Brown, Molinard, Serge Lutens, Teo Cabanel etc.
Nose, 20 Rue Bachaumont. Metro: Sentier. Carries: Acqua Di Parma, Atelier Cologne, By Kilian, biehl. parfumkunstwerke, Cale Fragranze d'Autore, Costume National, Cowshed, Cire Trudon, Diptyque, D.R.Harris, Floris, Frapin, Heeley, Histoires de Parfums, Juliette has a Gun, Keiko Mecheri, Lorenzo Villoresi, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Linari, Mark Buxton, Miller Harris, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Odin, Penhaligon's, Robert Piguet, The Different Company, The Laundress, Ulrich Lang.
Pharmacie du Palais des Congres, 2 Place de la Porte Maillot. Metro Station: Porte Maillot. Brands: Acqua di Parma*, Comptoir Sud Pacifique, Menard, Molinard, ROGER & GALLET, Rigaud

Add your own if you have them in the comments, so I can keep this up to date!

source,, photo via hipparis.com

Ormonde Jayne Perfumery opens at Fortnum & Mason

We're delighted to be the ones introducing the good news:

Ormonde Jayne Perfumery is delighted to launch its fourth point of sale in London at Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly from this Monday 12 September. Fortnum & Mason will stock Ormonde Jayne’s Bathing range (including Osmanthus Soap Bar & Dish), Scented Candles and a new exclusive Trilogy of Extrait de Parfum (pure parfum) (the set includes Tiare, Tolu & Ta’if) on the second floor.
Fans of the Ormond Jayne perfumes include perfumistas from all over the world and celebrities such as Elton John, Bryan Ferry, Emma Thompson, Sophie Dahl and Yasmin le Bon.
There are already two Ormonde Jayne boutiques in London in Mayfair and Sloane Square and points of sale at Harrods in Knightsbridge and Osswald in Zurich and Senteurs d’Ailleurs in Brussels.

Ormonde Jayne on the Continent: European Shopping Destinations in Zurich & Brussels

Osswald Parfümerie in Zurich was chosen for the Ormonde Jayne’s first continental concession on the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse. Osswald is an exclusive third generation perfumery that Ormonde Jayne’ owner Linda Pilkington first visited as a customer thirty years ago. Osswald has created a special area for Ormonde Jayne’s full range of 12 exclusive Parfums and Eau de Parfums within their boutique and the Osswald staff are delighted with the new range.

Ormonde Jayne’s second European concession is due to open in ten days on July 17 in Brussels on Place Stephanie at Senteurs d’Ailleurs. This will be the largest haute parfumerie store of its kind in Benelux.

In an impressive expansion from the existing store on Avenue Louise, Senteurs d’Ailleurs will be opening their doors in the stunning new Art Deco building opposite The Conrad Hotel next week.

 Ormonde Jayne’s exclusive Perfume Portraits service that Linda Pilkington recently launched with also be available in Brussels. This is the complimentary service that helps customers find their signature scent by smelling the raw ingredients of the perfumes.

The two new European concessions follow on from Ormonde Jayne’s launch of the new flagship boutique in Sloane Square that opened in November 2010 and the staffed concession in Harrods Perfumery Hall in February 2010.

news via press release

Ormonde Jayne Opens on Sloane Street

Ormonde Jayne celebrates its tenth and most exciting year with today’s launch of the new flagship boutique in world famous Sloane Square, London. The third and newest address of Ormonde Jayne in London is 192 Pavillion Road (site of the old General Trading Company) and like the first boutique in Old Bond Street, it neighbours with Tiffany’s, Cartier & Links of London. Designed by Caulder Moore, the smoked glass & antique gold shagreen walls give the store Ormonde Jayne’s trademark sophisticated decadent look. According to the founder Linda Pilkington, it was waiting to happen because it was so fitting the concept of the firm anyway: “When I first saw the “to lease” sign on Pavillion Road, I knew it would be the perfect location for Ormonde Jayne and I have always loved Sloane Square. Our original business plan was to start looking by the end of 2011, but I operate on instinct! As we are an independent company without outside investors, we have the luxury of making quick decisions. Following the success of our debut in Harrods earlier this year, it felt like the next logical move. Sloane Square is an international address in the heart and soul of London & we are thrilled to be opening today”.

Don't forget to check our other Ormonde Jayne articles and news.

Ormonde Jayne Perfume Portraits

British niche firm Ormonde Jayne is introducing a new service, aimed at providing clients with the tools and techniques to choose their perfect scent: a journey through the aromatic raw materials themselves, thus guiding them into choosing and setting aside ingredients! And the best latest shopping tip? Ormonde Jayne is being introduced to Harrods, for all you UK-based people. But how does the Perfume Portraits service work?

Seated at a beautiful bespoke testing table, trained staff take notes about the client’s likes and dislikes, favourite perfumes and other aromas. The customer is then invited to smell three raw ingredients from seven different families; hesperedic, light floral, intense floral, balsamic, oriental, woody and atmospheric. The scent of each raw ingredient is embedded in a unique black and gold ceramic stone especially created for Ormonde Jayne’s new Perfume Portraits.
At this stage the client is only asked to say if they like the aroma or not, and not to try to relate the scent to a perfume they might wear. Perfume Portraits is simply about letting personal taste be guided by your mind’s limitless scope to decipher the aromas around you.
Concluding the experience, two or three Ormonde Jayne perfumes that may suit by summarizing the favoured oils are recommended. Again, the favoured perfumes are presented on a second collection of black and gold ceramic stones. The client will then choose the perfume they like best. Sometimes this could be two or three perfumes and the chosen perfume is sprayed onto the wrists.
Discussion of their personal Perfume Portrait is possible too and yhis is something they can take home and keep for future reference while an archive is kept for those who want to drop by and need to rejog their memory on what they chose in the past.
Perfume Portraits is available at the flagship store in The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street and at the new Ormonde Jayne counter in The Perfume Hall on the ground hall of Harrods (click to also watch some videos with founder Linda Pilkington).

You can read an article by Lucia van der Post in the Financial Times supplement How to Spend It following this link.

Takashimaya: Bad News Ahead

WWD revealed that elegant Japanese department store Takashimaya which occupies more than 37,000 square feet for retail and office space on New York City's posh Fifth Avenue will close its flagship store in June. The building is owned and controlled by Takashimaya Fifth Avenue Corp. and Takashimaya Singapore Ltd. "Takashimaya said it plans to sell the real estate and dedicate the proceeds to faster growing markets in Asia," the paper reports in a short blurb. [source]

Somehow this reminds me of what I had said (a propos LVMH expanding into new markets via Tony Blair's consulting, scroll the article to the last paragraphs) in regards to the move of western companies into the Asian expansion being the only solution right now. Hermes as we had reported a while ago is even launching an exclusively Chinese line called Shang Xia!

The current issue of WWD reveals that the Takashimaya closing will be effective come 10th of June 2010. "This June, the company will shutter its New York flagship at 693 Fifth Ave., between East 54th and East 55th streets. It has been at the building, which it owns and plans to sell, since 1993, though its first store on the gilded Fifth Avenue strip opened in 1958" [source] while WWD mentioned that the store "will no longer be merging with H2O Retailing Corp., parent company of Hankyu and Hanshin department stores". Apparently not only is the Fifth Avenue store closing but another 6 stores have already closed in Japan. The reason isn't hard to see: Low sales have given the kiss of death. Given that they recently announced carrying the elusive (and unjustly underrated) Mona di Orio line, let's hope it didn't jinx it. (This is only a joke, folks!)
On the whole it was a matter of time before the hen that lays the golden eggs, namely the sector of niche fragrances, becomes oversaturated and confuses the consumer who cannot be fooled into paying, especially in this economy, for triple-the-price concoctions which are made the same way as mainstream fragrances but circulate in a je ne sais quoi way supposed to make them more "luxurious" and "exclusive"...

If interested to follow my thoughts on this track, I had posted an article wondering How Much Will the Niche Market Bear? on this link and recently discussed Niche Degeneration on that link on the Perfumism website.

Pic of Takashimaya New York via Atherton Bartelby

Neil Morris discount

Neil Morris mailed me with some info on a special discount they're offering for ALL their full bottles scents (including the Vault ones!) as a thank you to customers which made 2009 the best year for the Neil Morris line so far. The discount is 15% off listed prices until 31st January 2010 and the code when checking out on the official site is THANKS.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Neil Morris scent reviews

Christmas '09 Gifts Ideas: Jo Malone

Jo Malone is spoiling us rotten this Christmas with nifty gifts and sets encased in their delicious waffle-like, chic packaging. Here is the round-up for your ease, take notes:



TEA BOX DELUXE CANDLE COLLECTION A suite of three Deluxe Candles are presented in a stately cream-coloured box accompanied with a silver-plated wick trimmer, candle snuffer and key. The Collection features Eau De Cologne, Parma Violets and Sweet Almond Macaroon Deluxe Candles; each candle includes an engraved Jo Malone Candle Lid. 3x400g for 395 $US

SCENTED TRAVEL CANDLES Add the finishing touches to your home by decorating the interior with the delicious scents of Amber & Sweet Orange, Grapefruit, Lime Blossom and Orange Blossom. Sold individually the travel candles are easy to get anyplace to add an ambience of style, sophistication and warmth in any room. Each Candle is 60g for 35$


COLOGNE COLLECTION The Cologne Collection celebrates the artistry of scent through six colognes in small atomisers in a luxurious box, allowing perfume lovers to get to know the Jo Malone line intimately. The scents may be worn alone or layered to create unique combinations. The collection includes Grapefruit, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Pomegranate Noir, Sweet Lime & Cedar, Lime Basil & Mandarin and White Jasmine & Mint. 6 sprays x 9ml for 95$

BATH OIL COLLECTION An invitation to unwind via aroma. Six glass decanterswith six different scents to be used alone or in comvination. The collection includes Grapefruit, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Pomegranate Noir, Sweet Lime & Cedar, Lime Basil & Mandarin and White Jasmine & Mint. 6 vials x30ml for 85$

LIME BASIL & MANDARIN fRAGRANCE CHRONICLE™ The Lime Basil & Mandarin fragrance Chronicle™ is a new idea: Combine accords to the classic rich citrus formula embellished with notes of aromatic herbs and sensual woods to create your very own compelling signature scent. Transform Lime Basil & Mandarin with the accords of Mandarin, Sweet Basil and Amberwood. The Chronicle includes Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne 30ml, Mandarin Cologne Accord 9ml, Sweet Basil Cologne Accord 9ml, Amberwood Cologne Accord 9ml, all for 95$.

POMEGRANATE NOIR PAMPER KIT The limited-edition Pamper Kit includes Bath Oil, Shimmer Body Powder and Body Crème, all with the mysterious, regal scent of Pomegranate Noir.
Presented in the Jo Malone signature gift box the kit includes Bath Oil Glass Decanter 200ml, Shimmer Body Powder with Ultra Luxe Puff 70g, and Body Crème 175ml for 245$

POMEGRANATE NOIR DELUXE CANDLE Combining the sweet, fruity notes of raspberry, pink pepper and pomegranate with patchouli, frankincense and spicy woods, it comes with an engraved Jo Malone Candle Lid presented in a Jo Malone signature gift box. 400g for 130$

PINE & EUCALYPTUS COLLECTION Savor the season with Pine & Eucalyptus, a limited-edition scent from Jo Malone. The crisp aroma of pine is entwined with velvety eucalyptus to evoke the sense of winter. The Collection includes: Bath Soaps 3 x 100g 50$, Bath Oil 250ml 60$, Living Cologne 200ml for 95$, Home Candle 200g for 65$, Luxury Candle 2.5kg for 345$

Available at Jo Malone Shops, http://www.jomalone.com/, Bergdorf Goodman and in select Neiman Marcus and Saks fifth Avenue stores.

Info via press release. Pic of Christmas display via katie-d-i-d.blogspot.com

Frederic Malle’s New Madison Avenue boutique

With personal objects from Malle's collection and art deco exteriors hiding the futuristic "smelling columns" that were popularised for the ultimate sniffing experience in his other shops, the first free-standing F.Malle boutique in New York is reality. His 18 fragrances composed by some of the star-perfumers of today along with his new home fragrances collection (which we highlighted previously on this article) are waiting for the takers.

"Frédéric Malle’s new Upper East Side store — his first free-standing location in the states — is much like his fragrances: refined and multilayered. Nestled in a former doctor’s office at 898 Madison Avenue, the jewel-box boutique was designed by the French architect Patrick Naggar, who drew inspiration from the building’s storied Art Deco exterior."

Read the rest of the article on The New York Times clicking this link.

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, 898 Madison Avenue; (212) 249-7941.

Pic by Frances Janisch

New Online Store

Those who have been following Andy Tauer's blog have noticed that a new collaboration has been secured with the very new Scent and Sensibility Perfume online store. Founded by Ronny, a devoted fragrance enthusiast for some time and a loyal reader of ours, it is based in the UK and hopes to provide shopping pleasure for all your niche needs. For the time being, you will find Tauer Perfumes, Lost'march, Hilde Soliani (I know several of you had been praying for something like this!) and I Profumi di Firenze. The inventory will augment day by day. We're wishing Ronny all the best!

Hilde Soliani News: More Exclusive Stuff Available in NYC Now

You might remember that we had reported and reviewed the new exclusive niche line by Italian jewelry and fragrance designer Hilde Soliani. The magnificent Bell'Antonio, a fragrance focused on multi-nuanced aromatic tobacco and dark roasted coffee, and Vecchi Rosetti, a fragrance inspired by the Parma theatre with its waxed wooden floors and the backstage smelling of old-fashioned makeup, are now available in a few limited bottles only in New London Pharmacy in New York City. (The store also stocks the previous line by Hilde Soliani, La Mia Daisy, comprising 5 scents named after flowers and re-interpreting them in new interesting ways, which Perfume Shrine had reviewed a while ago).
I suggest you get your bottles while stocks last!

Shopping Guide:
New London Pharmacy, Inc. 246 Eighth Avenue New York, NY 10011
212.243.4987 800.941.0490 Fax 212.243.7110
You can also reach New London Pharmacy with your queries on Bell'Antonio and Vecchi Rosetti using the contact form here.

6 Tips on How To Sample as Many Fragrances as Possible

Getting to try out lots and diverse fragrances can be a daunting task, not least because there is the difficulty of keeping up with all the new releases and of getting actual samples to try out at home.
So here are some tips to help you out!

1.Map out your destination: do you want to go mass market testing or upscale boutique? It makes all the difference in the world in the proceedings, as you will see. I would suggest you make a list of coveted fragrances for each itinerary and then follow my suggestions for each.
And above all: forgo perfume and anything scented on that day. You want to have as much "virgin" skin on exposure as possible.

2.If you choose to go the department store/Sephora way. There is a specific code of conduct for this, so pay attention.
We all know that one of the major obstacles in unobtrused testing is sales assistants and their sometimes predatory jump-up on you with their "can I help you?". To avoid that without having to say 10 times "I'm merely browsing" there are several techniques. One of which is to dress as unconspicuously as possible: too expensive and fashion-forward and you look like someone who needs someone on his beck and call; too shabby and you look like a possible shoplifter. You want to mix with your surroundings, be a little bit anonymous.
Avoiding eye contact also works great. Take a little basket at hand if you're at Sephora -or anywhere they offer those- and browse the fragrance aisles unobtrused, spritzing to your heart's content, swifting to another bottle if you see a sales assistant coming your way: no one will bother to stop you. Should they do and you're in a good mood, you can assume your girliest look and say pleadingly: "Can I play just a little bit? It's such fun!"

3.If you want to actually get samples from a department store for testing at home. First of all, preferably go when you actually do need to make even a tiny purchase (say, a nail polish). Then when you do ask for the item, you can also interject questions about the fragrances you need samples of. They do have them if it's something new no matter what they might say and they are intended for your use, so be a little persistent, although always polite. Ask questions and be prepared to hear the wrong answers. You're not there to outwit them, you're there with a mission. Make them like you. Questioning shows that you have an actual interest in the scent and you are a potential customer, not just a sample hoarder, so the sales assistant will be more receptive. If they do not have sample vials to give (it can happen once in a while), you can bring your own and ask for a fill-up from the tester. Sephora in particular offers this as a standard practice, so don't be afraid to at least suggest it.
If your interest is on something older, it's probably hidden under the counter and you have to ask for the tester. Be brave and do it, they will produce it for you.


4.If you choose to go the niche boutique/upscale store with exclusives. A completely different approach is needed here. Dress as eclectically or classically expensive as you can, without going overboard of course. Drop the tacky fake items at all costs and look tidy: a tidy exterior has been scientifically proven to inject the idea that the person is organised and knows what he/she wants.
If you have actually shopped in the same shop before, it is a good idea to carry a little shopping bag of the store (with your sunglasses or your scarf inside): it lets them know instantly you're a customer and they will be extra friendly! If not but you have a small shopping bag from a comparable store, carry that instead: they will perceive the competition and strive to get the sale themselves.
Let them approach you and then state your purpose clearly. "I came to sample the new Chanel fragrances" or "I have read that the new Amouage has just come in!" They will be glad to show you.
When the difficult time of actually requesting a physical sample vial comes, you can always pretend you already have a perfume on and would prefer to sample at the leisure of your home. If they seem a little obstinate, claiming they have no sample vials, you can produce your own from your (expensive) purse and politely ask them to fill up from the tester. If they cannot do that, you can at least ask for blotters to spritz and sniff at home: you can have your own blotters and little envelopes to put them in seperately in your purse. They might look at you funny at this point, pay no attention.
If they decline, have the good manners to smile and thank them anyway. These people just work in a luxury shop, they don't own the things, plus they're on their feet all day. Don't envy them!

5.Befriend a competent sales assistant at your favourite store. It can't be stressed enough. She is worth her weight in gold! She will tell you about all the lasest news (those that she knows, at least), when items arrive and if there is a waiting list she will phone you when it's still getting started, so you do have a chance to get your item in time. Not to mention she will fill your handbag with samples following any actual purchase you make at the store!

6.If you're generally bored/daunted/sick of the whole shopping experience and want to do everything from home/desk.

a) You can swap for them on any perfume board for afficionados, such as Makeup Alley, or Basenotes. There is a technique involved here too: first amass some samples you think people will want to trade you for, then browse for those you wish for and get into the fine details. Preferably choose established swappers with good feedback and always make clear what each one's end of the deal is before sending. Swapping is a matter of trust and supposed to be fun. If you feel weird during the proceedings, better let it pass.

b) You can order niche samples from several fragrance sites directly, such as Aedes de Venustas, Luscious Cargo, Luckyscent and First in Fragrance. They make the bulk of their revenue out of samples anyway, I suspect (if their bestseller lists are any testament to that!).
Unsniffed purchases of whole bottles is strongly discouraged. You can be stuck with something you hate and no one wants! Don't be swayed by the ad copy just because it's not a magazine you're reading it in. It's still ad copy!
I would also personally advise against purchasing things that come only in nanodrops for exorbitant prices. Time and again has proven that those are ultimately disappointing and they soon crop up in people's swap lists anyway, so you can save the bucks and go route a (see right above).

c) You can email/write to perfume companies directly and ask for their sampling programme. Sometimes they have wonderful sample packs that will delight you. Its' worth it! Ormonde Jayne, Nobile 1942, Vero Profumo, Etat Libre d'orange (with their set of 17 miniatures) and others are such companies.
Some even have free giveaways such as Tauer Perfumes who frequently does so through his blog, which is the ultimate in a joyous experience.
Artisanal perfumers generally are very willing to send samples of their work for a nominal fee: try Abdes Salaam profumo.it, Anya's Garden, Aftelier, Sonoma Scent Studio, Ayala Moriel, Michael Storer, Liz Zorn/Soivohoe fragrances.
Also major companies have cottoned up to the power of the Internet and began to harness it by launching seperate pages for their new scents, often hosting sample giveaways and contests with prizes. Googling a new perfume name along with the sample/giveaway/contest tag will make those pop up. Example: here. I simply entered "Chloe new perfume sample" on Google!

d) You can also buy from respected sellers online, such as The Perfumed Court, The Posh Peasant and Fishbone fragrances. They have a great selection, but as prices are a little expensive, you might want to keep this for things you can't lay your hands any other way. You're guaranteed good service.

e) Last but not least, every time you make an online purchase at any site that carries fragrance, no matter what the purchase is, you can write at the comment form that you would appreciate fragrance samples with your order. They will oblige and send a little something, most of the time.


Pic courtesy of theage.au

London Calling...part 3

If on the previous post I talked about the opportunity of a hand and arm massage being rather uncommon to encounter in a perfume boutique, it is with regularity that one encounters the practice at another bastion of British skinscentsa-experience, that of Jo Malone. That’s only to be expected of course from someone who began as a facialist working with her hands, mixing to the degree that seemed right to her, as well as coming from a lineage in the profession. And up until the acquisition of the firm by Estee Lauder, Jo herself was seen at the boutiques getting involved in the process.
Today only the flagship store is controlled by Jo, per info divulged by the manager.The rest of the boutiques are controlled by the Lauder Group, remaining nevertheless totally respective to Jo’ vision for the line.

What is most pleasing about the Jo Malone boutiques is the presentation and stylish interiors. The walls are painted in ivory reflecting the shade of the luxurious boxes and thick paper bags, etched in black, with grosgrain black ribbon to match. It just looks the opposite of ostentatious; it’s really stylish, unaffected, old money style yet with a certain modern worldliness about it that other brands aiming at such miss. I can see a young at heart, busy and self-fulfilled, about town woman carrying the little tote bags filled with gifts for family, the glorious candles for the home (which burn exceptionally well and do scent the whole house) and a couple of bath and body products for herself. The lotions do lend a new meaning to the notion of self-pampering, they’re so velvety soft.
The shelves in the stores are spacious and inviting, beckoning you to lean closer and smell the testers with the lovely scents. There is an apothecary style of presentation, done however in light and bright hues that give off the modern edge I mentioned.

Going into the cornucopia of scents comprising the line, one is spoilt for choice, as there is apparently something for everyone. The notion of combining scents to produce a third, personal one is at the core of the brand and it is something that allows individualism to an extent, always a good thing in my books.

The one basic gripe I often hear about Jo Malone scents is that they are not very lasting and that this is due to them being “colognes”. With that in mind I tackled the manager with a direct approach aimed at producing the “deer caught in the headlights” effect which might have made me persona non grata in the store had the British good manners not surfaced and a smart managing direction not prevailed. No, my question was not rude or impertinent, it seemed. This was often voiced and they had a perfectly valid explanation. The fragrances in the Jo Malone line are really of eau de toilette (and in some cases even eau de parfum) strength, however the eau de cologne tag was chosen to denote that the products are really meant to be shared, being unisex, so as not to alienate the male customer venturing into the store. Phrased like that it does make sense, although I have to admit that the lasting power is greatly dependent on the specific fragrance chosen, as some seem to go on for hours, while others vanish in a “puff the magic dragon” instant.

As the whole line is available where I live quite easily I wasn’t temped into actual purchases, so the whole purpose of the exercise was to really get the feel of the shop, talk to the manager and get info for our readers concerning aspects of the brand. To the interests of the latter issue I tentatively asked what the bestsellers are. The artsy types go for Pomegranate Noir, I was told, with its deep and brocade-like tapestry of rich hues and sweet and sour fruits, while the more traditional women go for Red Roses.

Contrasted to my local boutique bestsellers, which the manager had revealed to be Orange Blossom and Honeysuckle & Jasmine (those are both very likeable and suited to warmer temperatures), I saw that there is substance to the notion of choices based on climate. However Pomegranate Noir is the perennial favourite for the winter season.
Men often go for the traditional Amber and Lavender and Vetyver. I think although the former is rather mainstream and not very exciting, it does blend pleasing sides of both notes. Vetyver I found not to my liking, I’m sad to report. Rather discordant.

From the choices before me I really appreciated again the slight spiciness of Vintage Gardenia, which makes it unique in the universe of gardenias, even if not as realistically accurate as the one by Yves Rocher or the new Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder. Blue agave and cacao is slightly salty and has a rather bitter edge that is very welcome in the heat.

One thing I came across that you won’t be coaxed into relying solely on the recommendations of the catalogue or the site is the marvelous combination of the woodiness of masculine 154 cologne and Red Roses: the effect is vaguely reminiscent of Voleur de Roses by L’artisan, with a different enough tonality to it, that is more sandalwood rich but with the earthy touch of vetiver instead of patchouli. Neat!



Next post will offer a glimpse of greatness...

Pics courtesy of Jo Malone site