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Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Chronology, Comparison & Photos of Miss Dior (Cherie) Various Editions & Reformulations: How to Spot the One You Like

It was a few months ago I was venting on the reformulation and name change of a very popular Dior perfume, the coquette Miss Dior Chérie which became...Miss Dior, thus changing the course of history forever for the young generations. The issue is both puzzling and enraging enough and you can (re)read my previous article if you like, but I realized that what many people are asking for is how to differentiate between the various editions and how to spot the older Miss Dior Chérie from the reformulated one.
So here's a short guide with photos to help you pick the right one; the one you meant to buy.

First of all, according to the official claims the new version of Miss Dior (Cherie in parenthesis, because that's what it is a version of) (2011) is "subtler and more refined" than the original from 2005 created by perfumer Christine Nagel. If we're to do a Miss Dior Chérie 2005 vs. 2011 edition comparison, the new edition is credited to perfumer Francois Demachy and starts on a different premise: 'Dior's girl is grown up and is now a woman who loves' (instead of one who flirts, we're led to believe), fronted in the advertisements by Natalie Portman, but the truth is much of the character that made Miss Dior Chérie so much a love-it-or-hate-it fragrance is lost, the tart strawberry jam note and the caramelic pop-corn is watered down and all we're left with is a generic sweet top, a white floral note and sanitised patchouli. But that's just my own opinion; don't mind me too much, I always thought the old was rather unpalatable, though it possessed conviction & character. But what is now admitted officially, was a fact even before 2011! A while ago the Dior fragrance was already reformulated, even though it circulated under the full name (see below for photos and captions).

Miss Dior Chérie EDP (Christine Nagel 2005) will be available on the market while stocks las (the last reformulation before the 2011 one will be as well), and the new edition Miss Dior (Chérie) EDP (Francois Demachy 2011) will replace it completely.
The reason of course being that Miss Dior Chérie outsells the original Miss Dior by a wide margin...

click to enlarge




The rather confusing Miss Dior (Chérie) line comprises so far:
Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Parfum 2005 (Christine Nagel original)
Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Toilette 2007 (this version eventually obtained the white label instead of the silver writing on the bottle, like the later reformulated EDP)
Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Printemps 2008 (limited edition),
Miss Dior Chérie Blooming Bouquet 2008 (exclusive for the Asian market)
Miss Dior Chérie L'Eau 2009 (a completely different fragrance, a "flanker")
Miss Dior (Chérie) Eau de Parfum 2011 (Demachy reformulation)
Miss Dior Eau Fraiche Eau de Toilette (new flanker for spring 2012)
Miss Dior (Chérie) Le Parfum (August 2012)

Miss Dior Chéri EDP 2005

Miss Dior Cherie EDP reformulated 2008

Miss Dior Cherie~ L.to R: Eau, EDP, EDT 2008 presentation


Miss Dior (Cherie) reformulated 2011 "couture" edition

The confusion happens with the Eau de Parfum (EDP) mainly as this is the sought-after version. The older original 2005 bottles had a silver writing on the bottle, while the white label was introduced sometime in 2008 (as attested by the Maryna Linchuck commercials). Please be warned that a perceptable reformulation happened in 2010 to both EDP and EDT, when the Eau de Toilette version was remade in 2010.

Miss Dior Originale EDT 2011

The classic 1947 Miss Dior now circulates in Eau de Toilette (and extrait de parfum) as Miss Dior Originale. The extrait de parfum of the Cherie declination (now simply presented as Miss Dior as well) is thankfully distinguishable by the bottle design which is close to that of the pinkish Cherie juice and bears a ribbon bow. The body lotion comes in both the Cherie and the original 1947 scent, the latter distinguishable by the moniker "Diortendre" below the Miss Dior name.

Miss Dior Eau Fraiche edt 2012



Imagine the confusion when spring 2012 will see the introduction of Miss Dior Eau Fraiche by Dior, blending not only one classic fragrance in the mix but two! (Dior Eau Fraiche is an Edmond Roudnitska perfume composition from the 1950s).

Adding that August 2012 sees the introduction of Miss Dior ((Chérie) Le Parfum, an extrait version of the reformulated Demachy juice, fronted by Natalie Portman in the ads.
As you can see in the pic below the bottle is identical to the 2008 reformulated EDP but with Le Parfum written under the "Miss Dior" tag.




There's a circle in hell reserved for Parfums Dior for confusing us so!
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Related reading on Perfume Shrine: the Christian Dior fragrance reviews

You can also check PerfumeShrine's previous entries on the different flankers/perfume editions of Dior Poisons, the many flankers/limited editions of Dior best-seller J'Adore, the super confusing group of fragrance editions by Rodriguez Narciso For Her with their differences highlighted, the Etro Via Verri original and reformulated editions, the Shiseido Zen perfume editions, the several fragrance editions of Flower by Kenzo compared to one another (with pics) and Hermes Merveilles perfume range different editions.

some photos via sassisamblog.com

37 comments:

  1. Very funny. Recently, I was talking to a young lady about a perfume I was wearing (Cabaret by Gres) and she volunteered that her favorite was Miss Dior. I didn't even bother to ask her which one!

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  2. annemariec23:48

    Many thanks, that's terrifically helpful. Not that I am in the market for any of the Cheries but the confusion just enrages me. In that circle of hell one would also find the many flankers and editions of J'Adore.

    As for passing the name of the 1947 fragrance on to the candy fruit stuff of recent times - that decision by Dior passeth all understanding. 'Originale' indeed.

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  3. Hi! I have a Q.
    I bought the vesion of 2008 in mid 2011 (its the same bottle that you posted)..
    the new version, reformulated of 2011 the one with the pale ribbon.. the notes are different from the 2008 version??

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  4. TFC,

    indeed! Probably she wore the new, that "miss" thing hints at something young and this is probably why they kept it.

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  5. AM,

    I could yield my clenched fist on and on to powers that be but what does it accomplish? Better help people at least get what they like.
    Not that I will be banging down the doors of discounters and obscure retailers to get the old version myself, but...you know. Perfume lovers are to be indulged. :-)

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  6. Maire,

    thanks for commenting and excellent question, I should have addressed it.

    Well, yes, let's see:

    Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Parfum 2005
    Christine Nagel

    Top: pineapple, cherry, strawberry, mandarin
    Heart: popcorn, caramel, jasmine, rose, violet
    Base: patchouli, musk, amber


    Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Parfum 2011
    Francois Demachy

    Top: sparkling citruses (mandarin orange);
    Heart: Rose Damascena, intense jasmine;
    Base notes: Patchouli, Vetyver, Sandalwood, Moss, Amber.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Someone got hit over their heads.

    After securing a lifetime supply of Dolce Vita, I'm done with Dior so they can continue to Miss Diorissimo, Dior Dior Diorling Eau Fraiche Eau Printemps Cologne Florale que je non adore pas and beyond. Phew.

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  8. L,

    they're crazily mixing things up. I understand that Eau is the latest "direction" but really...why confuse things? There's already one Eau in the Miss Dior Cherie line and an Eau Fraiche in the Creations de M.rDior line. The rest is de trop, just to bring out yet another release. Then again, what do I know, it might be nice enough, though I'm not holding my breath.

    Dolce Vita is good stuff. I see it however being a bit hidden behind the counter, so I'm a bit trepidating with anxiety these days.

    "Je n'adore pas" might be a great name for a new Dior fragrance: the irony, the sarcasm, the sheer being a good sport!! :-D

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  9. I wonder why they wouldn't make the stuff in plain good EdC concentration with some citruses and spices thrown in, in the good old cologne tradition.

    Oh, my lousy French. I should hang my head in shame.

    Alas, I don't think they'd be such good sports for Je n'adore pas. That would require something really odd and original which wouldn't sell by buckets to adolescents. Or it would but someone would have to try something untried.

    Whatevs. There're other things to sniff.

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  10. Thankfully I was smart enough some time ago when Douglas parfumery got closed, that I bought the real Miss Dior. These Cherie never was my stuff. So they can actually stop producing it.
    Someone shoud congratulate them on creating confusion. I'm not quite sure if themselves are following all this. It will be very nice to here explanations from sales assistants in perfume shops about which is what.

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  11. Thanks! Perfumeshrine..
    I hope The fragrance doesn't change to much.. I was seeing this at Fragantica
    http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Dior/Miss-Dior-Cherie-Eau-de-Parfum-11588.html
    I belive thats are the notes of the perfume.. and I see they change it again ¬¬ in this one
    http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Dior/Miss-Dior-Couture-Edition-13763.html

    WHY they do this!!? Are they Are bored or something?!

    Anyway.. :)
    Lots of kisses from Argentina!!

    ReplyDelete
  12. L,

    you're 100% right: that would be beyond their capability.

    Pity for Demachy, having to work on endless re-spins on everything.

    Oh well...

    ReplyDelete
  13. Civava,

    you're wise! ;-)

    I'm sure SAs will swear blind it's the same thing it always was, etc etc. I have very little faith in what SAs tell me; most do not get a solid education in their own brand.

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  14. M,

    I believe the notes on Fragrantica come from the press releases of the company itself. It makes sense that Dior would sway the notes a bit when introducing a new launch, prompting buyers to try out the "new" edition, doesn't it?

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  15. Yes it does.. But in my case I feel disappointed. Instead of change it, why not launch a new perfume ..
    :)

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  16. We're all asking the same thing!
    There's no logic there, as there's certainly enough perfume on the market already to take us all to the grave without launching anything new for the forseeable future. But they bring out something out every six months at least...New always draws interest in their eyes, I guess.

    ReplyDelete
  17. I recently bought a bottle which looks like the EDT 2007 edition. Is that going to be the Nagel formulation, the Demachy formulation, or something entirely different? I think it's safe to say whether you're a Miss Dior, Miss Dior Cherie, or "whatever else they come up with"--fan, your fuming.

    ReplyDelete
  18. FF (evocative name!),

    I believe what you have is the Nagel composition (considered the best).
    You're absolutely right that they have created an immense bother on this one for everyone. Not being able to continue to buy something you like, considering MDC is like the #5 best-seller in the world, is rather puzzling from a business point of view.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Oh my goodness, this is so confusing! Every time I go to a fragrance counter, the women have no idea what I'm talking about when I say "the Original Miss Dior." They say that there was never an original Miss Dior, and it's always been Miss Dior Cherie.

    I fell in love with Miss Dior back in November-December 2011, but never bought it. Does anyone know which formulation that may have been? I smell the reformulated Miss Dior (Cherie) now, and it's definitely not that. I can't find the one I smelled last year!

    ReplyDelete
  20. M,

    I sympathize. The younger SAs haven't even seen the older bottles and it's natural with the training they receive to confuse the "modern" with the original. After all, now they have almost the same name! :/

    Please allow me to say I don't quite get which you refer to (I can be thick sometimes): the Miss Dior classic? If so, then it should be in the bottle with the oval in colour in a white background. That was the packaging circa that period, I recall.
    If you refer to the Miss Dior Cherie, it should be clear from the article and the pics which one it was, surely? I can't really help further. *throwing hands on the air in desperation*

    ReplyDelete
  21. Anonymous18:23

    I, too, was told that the original Miss Dior was the (Cherie). I must have argued with the woman behind the Dior counter at Macy's for at least 10 minutes. While I have not come across to smell the bottle that says Miss Dior Originale, I am hoping it's the Miss Dior that I remember. I hate it when they reformulate my favorite classic sents and try to push them off as the "original." Ridiculous to say the least!

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  22. Anon,

    this is the line they're being fed, no doubt. Relax and next time just bring your own bottle, spray on a blotter and tell her" smell, is that the same?" She will know then...
    The Originale does seem rather obscure, doesn't it? Odd...let's hope it doesn't become an "exclsuive" or something, just to keep a piece of perfume history in the house. :/

    ReplyDelete
  23. Anonymous00:59

    Hi!

    Thanks for the info. I was randomly given Dior samples a while back, and fell in love with Cherie (thought the newer Miss Dior was okay, but I could really smell the moss). I've been in a couple of shops, but the saleswomen keep saying the two fragrances are the same (now I know they are not, and I wasn't imagining a difference).

    I see that the Miss Dior Cherie EDP is shown in different packaging (one with big silver letters, and one with a white label). Is there only one formula for which the bottle says 'Miss Dior Cherie EDP' on it? (i.e. do I need to pay attention to the packaging when I pick up a bottle that says Cherie on it)

    thanks

    ReplyDelete
  24. Anon,

    salesladies say what they're told. Half of them have never even sprayed the things they sell to see how they smell! [One memorable one at Guerlain with several different Aqua Allegoria testers in front of her saw me spraying one, then smile, so she grabbed the tester, read the name of the line underneath and told me "this is a spectacular fragrance, Aqua Allegoria!" to try and make a quick sale. I mean....geez, there are about 6 different ones in front of you, woman, all under "Aqua Allegoria"!!!)

    I believe the pictures above more than anything will guide you into differentiating the EDP Cherie you're interested in. The boxes don't have significant differences, but the batch codes run through a cosmetics date databank (searchable online) would indicate date of production, so with my guide here you should be easily getting that which you're after.

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  25. You might be able to help me; I'm grasping at straws!

    I thought that I was mistaken in thinking that it was myself that had changed and not the perfume. Thanks for writing this entry to clarify. I'm terribly upset that Dior has done this.

    I am still hopeful that I can find a similar scent to the 2005 MDC. Would you have any recommendations that I can pursue? I am not interested in buying a bottle off of eBay.

    Many thanks in advance! :)

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  26. Hi!
    I've recently bought a new bottle of MDCh in Boot's store. I was given an old version (by which I mean before the change to miss dior with no cherie on the carton). I checked by batch code, and is was produced in january 2011. Hence my question, is it an orginal version of MDCh or is it after reformulation made by F. Demachy? I would be grateful if somebody could help me because despite having read the whole article i cannot still tell which one I have?
    Many thanks in advanced

    ReplyDelete
  27. Minna,

    alas, I don't have a ready made rec for your shopping needs :-( In this particular case I wouldn't even recommend Ebay, because it's one of the most counterfeited products there, so it's always risky.
    Your best bet is the slowest moving department store in your region, in the hopes that a lone bottle might be lurking someplace, though with the popularity of this one this is slim chances.
    Wish I had an easy answer!

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  28. Chess,

    I believe you have the Demachy version, if it's the EDP produced in 2011.
    If you look at the "list" with the perfumes under this name, it's mentioned there. The EDT by Demachy is even later than that. Both bear no relation to the Miss Dior Cherie of yore (with the strawberry-popcorn-patchouli notes).

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  29. Perfumeshrine,
    Thx for yoor answer. I bought an EDP, and I'm now slightly confused...if the original miss dior cherie is only avaiable in a flacon with silver writting or is it also avaiable in flacon with a label on it? And yet when exactly did they drop producing an old version? I must say, that in the boots I got my one from, there were a tester of old miss dior cherie , which ihave no doubts about since it was a very first version of flacon with silver writting on it ;)

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  30. Hi again and you're welcome.

    The original original (2005) has the silver, the first reformulation (non Demachy) has the label. The newer version was introduced in 2008, as stated in the breakdown of the article. The newest reformulation was effective in batches of 2011. I hope this is clearer?

    Does your bottle have a label or silver writing? The tester you mention is definitely the old old one (which is strange as you'd think after all those years the tester would have been empty by now, since so many people test this one casually when browsing, so they clearly are getting old stock).

    ReplyDelete
  31. I have a miss dior cherie, white label in bootle frim january 2011, does that mean it's the new version?

    When did they change it, in what month of 2011?

    ReplyDelete
  32. TSR,

    thanks for asking!

    I believe your bottle is the Demachy reformulation (the prior one, there's one every a couple of years). There is no clear indication from the company as to which month (wish they'd stamp out production just like with wines), but by the roll of spring releases (these are announced in February) there was the change, so it follows that the production of the bottles must have preceded by a couple of months before -at least!

    ReplyDelete
  33. I have the newest version and I actually prefer it, although it smells a lot like Chanel Mademoiselle, in my humblest of opinions. I had a full bottle back in 2005 when it came out. My daughter was one at the time and maybe I was still sensitive to smells, but I ended up loathing it. The strawberry popcorn patchouli combo made me very nauseous and dizzy. I think I donated it to a thrift shop.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yup, I think the newer ones do feel more like Cmlle than anything else. Goes to show you...
      Can't say I love the original one (in fact find it rather loathsome, too sweet, too sickly) but it had character. Now it's not so much as an inoffensive type of scent like a hundred others.

      Delete
  34. How can this have been succesful? I don't understand it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It was cavity-inducing sweet! It was bitchy sweet like "endure me because I want to impose myself". There's an audience for that, always. ;)

      Delete
  35. my bottle of miss dior cherie edp has the paper label like the one you have labeled 2005, but the metal bow is like that of the 2008 (with the 2 sharp upper corners on the left of the bow). this is the formulation i'd like to get my hands on. the lid has CD on top but the spray button does not. where can i find a bottle?

    ReplyDelete

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