Scents that Stick Around: Summer Fragrances that Last

Like summer romances and fickle affairs concocted between sea dips and nightime beach bars, most summer fragrances seem as ephemeral as the situations that they are desperate to evoke. That's fine, if you have made your peace with that. But what happens when you have not? What's available to cater for -say- historians who appreciate marbles still standing weathered by the harsh elements, who like the permanancy of real tatoos which mean something and who are dazzled by the billions of years of geophysical pressure it took to make diamonds? Those people (and I bet they're not solely restricted to these traits) appreciate something more: longevity. Unlike guys and gals that come and go, a great stand-by fragrance should be relied on to provide dependable stability. I call these PPP perfumes (that would make it 4 Ps in a row, beats fraternities any day): the Permanent Pleasure Principle.

I was thinking about this when readers asked about lasting fragrances and therefore I compiled a list of summery fragrances which last really well for you. Some are marketed as feminine, some as masculine, some as unisex, but in my opinion they're all eminently shareable between both sexes.Experiment and see if you agree with me!

• THE CITRUS BLAST

Tom Ford Neroli Portofino
The scent of chic Italian holidays is the elusive holy grail of perfumers: How to capture the jovial, sun-filled warmth of living across the most picturesque villages and bigaradier groves across the shores without losing that freshness along the way? There's a reason this fragrance is so popular it got its own ancillary bath products: Neroli Portofino after the initial bitter neroli and clean orange blossom really lasts thanks to the ubiquitous white musks at the base.

Prescriptives Calyx
How do you convey the scent of grapefruit when the essence of grapefruit is fleeting? Perfumer Sophia Grojsman, years before Jean Claude Ellena perfected his trademark streamlined approach, came up with a bag of tricks that relied on a few well-chosen accords that last exceptionally well. Calyx smells of the freshest, tangiest grapefruit, is using none (instead relies on raspberry-faceted musks, citrus and a cyclamen-rose accord with Calone) and lasts an eternity.

Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again
Somehow the success of In Love Again is that it manages to bypass the Scylla of hyper sweet, with a tart, zesty grapefruit accord that coaxes the sulfurous nature of the fruit into submission, making it easier to wear than the more difficult Pamplelune by Guerlain which often produces a strong ammoniac, catty effect on certain skins. A touch of green leaves, organic and warmed in the sun also contributes to its modern character, as well as what I perceive as tart berries. But it also has a soft ambiance about it, without resorting to the Charybdis of ease that is the powder smell of certain white musks, nor stooping to cheap air-freshener style. Although a modern fragrance wih hints of the fruit-bowl, In Love Again has something about it which makes me enjoy it in the warmer months.

Hermès Terre d'Hermès
The brightest bergamot gains the course by having a particularly long drydown after the refreshing overture; the unusual, intellectual, mineral facets in its core and the great radiance of its woody bottom (accounted by IsoE Super, more on which on this article) are the cornerstones on which the reputation of Terre d'Hermès has been cemented.Extrait de parfum doesn't budge at all.

• THE MUSKY MUSKETEERS

L'Artisan Mûre et Musc
The fruity, musky scent of blackberries warmed in the sun is sensual and enveloping. With the radiant sparkle of the fragrance's top notes, freshness is apparent with citrus fruits (kumquat, bergamot) and aromatic notes lead by basil in the extrait de parfum version. Spicy notes (pink and black pepper) strengthen its contrast and add to the enchantment which leads to the base of blackberry-faceted musk.

Le Labo Gaiac 10
Developed in partnership with cult perfumer Annick Ménardo (Bulgari Black, Lolita Lempicka, Patchouli 24) in 2008, Gaiac10 is a tense formula built on gaïac wood and surrounded by muscs (4 different synthetic musk types in all), with hints of cedar and olibanum (incense). If you like the meditative, cool Eastern incense vibe of Kyoto by Comme de Garçons, you have good chances to appreciate that element in the Le Labo offering. The musks are the "clean" variety, lightly sweet with a faintly fruity tonality, with no funk or sweat involved. The woody background with a light peppery nuance is reminiscent of the base notes treatment in Poivre Samarkande for Hermessences and Bang by Marc Jacobs.

• MOSSY-WOODY WONDERS

Jean Louis Scherrer by Jean Louis Scherrer (original)  
Green and with the rush of sparkling aldehydes it is soon intensly mossy and floral, recalling a bygone era. The violet note is mostly reminiscent of an iris fragrance, slightly metallic and otherwordly; but the brooding synergy with the other ingredients brings out a luminiscent aura that is tantamount to wearing an expensive necklace of Peruvian pre-Colombian emeralds set on antique gold.

Hermes Un Jardin sur le Nil 
Jean Claude Ellena is often accused for ethereal, fleeting compositions by those who simply prefer the oriental school of thought: On the contrary most of his creationslast exceptionally well, being technical marvels, only they do so by humming rather than performing hystrionics. Un Jardin sur le Nil is a particularly good example, and this one actually speaks louder than most, delivering a message of green mango (think tart and tangy) over greenery and somber, serene woods. Perfect in the heat!

• QUIRKY FRUITCHOULI

Thierry Mugler Eau de Star I only need to point out that Eau de Star is Angel's summery little sister to get across my point about lasting power. Probably contended only by Fukushima's current radioactivity, each and every Angel variant is radioactive to the point of having to bury in the attic any fabric that went as far as having an after work cocktail with it (and that's meant in a good way). Eau de Star is no exception, but it has such a bracing, cool mint effect on top that one might pass it for a convincing summer fragrance that won't clear rooms due to potency. It's glorious and it lasts. Why was it discontinued?

• FLORAL PANORAMAS

Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
An initial fresh opening that is reminiscent of lemon groves overlooking countryhouses where potted tuberoses are kept takes you on a journey to an inner closed court with a fountain, Moor-style, where gardenias are kept in big pots. Their aroma mingling night and languor, beckoning you, beguiling you. The gardenia accord smells surprisingly true.  

Les Nez Manoumalia
The almost fruity jasmine-y intensity of ylang-ylang and fragrea never fails to make my mind fly to warm tropical paradises even in the midst of winter cold, but it is the earthy unrooted vetiver that provides a grounding touch in Manoumalia, like immersing my hands into a bag of uprooted bulbs.

• JUST OUT OF THE SHOWER SCENTS LASTING ALL DAY

Ava Luxe China Rain
It is said that Ava Luxe was trying to recreate an existing scent with this: China Rain by Body Time, which apparently is something of a cult classic. I haven't smelled the latter (my friends tell me it's very good but slightly different), but Ava Luxe's take is phenomenal in both projection and staying power, while at the same time being particularly fresh. Fueled by aldehydes, giving off a soapy ambience that enhances the rosy floral and lightly musky aromas, China Rain resembles Glow by JLo and is a great choice for casual summer wearing (especially when one doesn't want to buy Glow for whatever reason).  

Aramis New West for Him
Technically an ozonic/ marine fragrance (in fact the first one to inaugaurate the category in 1988), New West for Him is tingingly fresh with a plausible mint note that isn't too toothpaste-like, some aqueous Calone and lots of herbal lavender plus clean musks, epitomizing the ideal of a scrubbed down male who is gorgeous enough to not to rely on excessive preening. California images of rippled surfers fill the mind just by uttering its name.


Of course this is merely a kickstart, there are many more summery fragrances with decent longevity. Which ones are your picks? 

pics via Dailymail and Ulta blog

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Jasminora: fragrance review

It's easy to be convinced that the later day Aqua Allegorias have been subpar: The history of the Aqua Allegoria line by Guerlain proves they were not always so, yet the fruity examples of the last few years have been steadily dwindling. Nevertheless, I really surprised myself with Jasminora, Guerlain's latest addition in the line: A fresh jasmine floral which should delight fans of the classic Diorissimo (due to the latter's hyperbole of lily of the valley flanked by the grace of jasmine), as well as the acolytes of Chanel Cristalle and Ormonde Jayne Tiare (due to the crackling effect of both scents' citrusy trompe-l'oeil atop the green floralcy). The Aqua Allegorias have firmly moved from fruity territory into florals (judging by Flora Nymphea and travel exclusives Bouquet No.1 & Bouquet No.2) and if this one is any indication, there's hope yet!
 

According to Guerlain: "Aqua Allegoria Jasminora is a limited edition for 2011. This fresh floral fragrance opens with notes of galbanum, bergamot and cyclamen. The heart features Calabrian jasmine, freesia and lily of the valley, while the base consists of musk and amber."

In Guerlain's Jasminora the protagnonist is hedione (Methyl Dihydrojasmonate, the sparkling, limpid green note isolated from jasmine, paired with the lightening pepperiness of freesia. Here the perfumer used specifically Hedione HC from Firmenich, taking on citrusy touches reminiscent of bergamot juice and magnolia petals. The airy tang is complimenting the floral heart, taking on the refined delicacy of classic vintage Guerlain colognes (like in Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat) and echoing one of the most successful Aqua Allegorias, Flora Nerolia to date (Where the lightly bitter-sour neroli takes on a sensuous overlay, thanks to jasmine). The initial impression is one of electric shock, the peppery flash of freesia and some citrus creating a shockingly "fresh", piquant aura, the air ripe with the promise of rain.

This is supported by a chord of lily of the valley and jasmine which unmistakably translates as "green floral" (the resinous backbone of galbanum grass is furthering this "fresh", bracing impression). Hence my (tentative, as they're not really alike) comparison with vintage Diorissimo, especially in the lighter, fresher concentrations. But whereas the Dior classic veered into a decidedly naughty note in the background ~most notable in the extrait de parfum concentration~ in Jasminora the refined feel is that of a Japanese garden, misty at the edge of dawn and full with the electricity in the air before a rainstorm.
The aqueous elements are woven expertly alongside a sweet note reminiscent of the headiness of honeysuckle, resulting in an uplifting, refreshing melody which is heard though canopies of bright white. The lasting power is very good for an Eau de Toilette, in what is by definition a light genre, through the synergy of modern musks (only lightly powdery) and a subtle mossy note, boosting the freshness into an exploding sense of elation.

Much has been written about how Guerlain is abandoning la patrimonie of their impressive tradition, but with Jasminora they're revisiting part of that heritage with surprisingly credible results and a modern fresh feel. If I might be allowed to grumble amidst a positive review, it's a profound pity Guerlain reserved it for just a limited edition.

The newest Aqua Allegoria, Jasminora, by Guerlain, is available from major Guerlain stockists, £35 for the standard 125ml spray bottle.



Music by Manos Hadjidakis The waltz of lost dreams, from the 1961 Greek film Χαμένα Όνειρα (Lost Dreams).
Picture of Greek actress & dancer Maria Nafpliotou

Trussardi for Women & Donna Trussardi: fragrance reviews

There are fragrances which appear like a ghost from another world: New apparition, same old quirks; there's just something immediately common and yet at the same time quite different. Trussardi has two classic feminine fragrances in their repertoire which are great and they're both utterly lovely in differing ways, yet with a common calling card: Italian elegance and panache!

Trussardi for Women is elegant and chic as befits a classic floral chypre: Essentially timeless, yet so characteristic of the 1980s when this type of fragrance romped the executive ladders across the Western world, Trussardi came out in 1982. This is a cool customer: I can imagine that the all-white mock-crock flask bottle with the superimposed tabac leather medallion with the afgan dog profile (leather goods company Trussardi's trademark) is appealing to a certain type of person: She is always elegant even in 100F heat, preferably in all white, intelligent in a non studious way, more than a bit of a ruthless calculator, rather like Kathleen Turner in Body Heat (Surely Barbara Stanwick's best successor!) The fragrance inside however is all that and more: Hell, it can melt even the kindest of hearts! The characteristic perfume-y start is typically 1980s power chypre fragrance and directly derived by such powerhouses of unabashed audacity as the classic Bandit. Lovers of the very perfumey, very arid Gucci No.3 will recall how Italians embraced this type of fragrance and suffused it with a sense of luxury.

Trussardi for Women is indeed a sharp, arid composition with a good amount of pungent leather, centered around the classic bouquet of rose, jasmine and lily of the valley; the latter for its expansive properties which boost the effect of the deceoptive "cleanliness" inside and lets the other florals bloom ~among them a hint of tuberose. None of the notes are especially airated, creating a dense, pungent and slightly masculine effect with a hidden sensuality: the sandalwood, styrax resin and patchouli detectable at the dry down phase of the fragrance create a come hither vibe that is hard to miss. 

"You're not too smart, are you?...I like that in a man" she says....

On the contrary, Donna Trussardi, this time composed by Jean Guichard in 1994, is a much sunnier, open-hearted and more outwardly seductive composition that veers into floriental. Although there is a floral heart once again, the ambience is different, set on warmer tonalities, like the smile of a genuine seniora Italiana. The departure is much less sharp or perfumey, choosing instead the synergy of mandarin and ginger which imbues the fragrance in the saturated colours of the grand Italian masters. From then on, if you lean closely, you might detect several flowers, all singing in unison yet sometimes one can overtop the other in a game of hide &seek. I detect ylang ylang, carnation and a smidge of tuberose. But the real deal in Donna Trussardi comes from the unfurling of a classic balsamic accord like sweet suede, built on labdanum and benzoin (which compliments the sweeter elements of the tropical ylang ylang with its vanillic undertone). Although a couple of elements from the chyprish predecessor are surviving (the citrusy counterpoint, the rose, the patchouli layer), those who experience Donna Trussardi in the squarish bottle with the rounded shoulders are a long way away from the prayer mantis mating game of the first version in the white bottle. Their seduction is more woman-next-door and for that reason more insidious.

I love them both for all the wrong reasons...

Somewhat confusingly, Trussardi for women (or Trussardi by Trussardi)  is also seen as Trussardi per Donna, which might make some believe the 1994 version is the older one: beware, the packaging is totally different and easy to distinguish. Both Trussardi for Women and Donna Trussardi are a rare sight nowadays in my corner of the world, but discounters and online auctions might be a source of procuring some.


pics via punmiris.com

Uncorked: Natural Perfumers' Guild Celebrates 5th Anniversary

The Natural Perfumers Guild Celebrates it’s Fifth Anniversary June 1, 2011 with a Blogging Event and Membership Fee Discount. Uncorked!  The natural perfume stories of the members of the Natural Perfumers Guild are uncorked on their blogs to celebrate the 5^th Anniversary of the Guild on June 1.

Guild President Anya McCoy says “I realized that I didn’t know the reason that many of the members love natural aromatics, or why they became natural perfumers, and I asked them to blog their bios and cross-link to the other members.  It’s an intimate, lovely way to celebrate this milestone.”

You can find out who the participants are and follow their stories by clicking on Anya McCoy's blog page.

Hermes Un Jardin sur le Toit: fragrance review

Un Jardin sur le Toît, the fourth installment in the Les Jardins series at Hermès, a technopaegnia sample more than a simple fragrance, follows the success of Un Jardin sur la Mediterranée, Un Jardin sur le Nil and Un Jardin Après La Mousson. But whereas the narrative in the latter sprung naturally from the motifs of the house  (Un Jardin sur Nil was based on a previous design of river greenery captured in porcelain) or the perfumer's own travel associations (Un Jardin sur la Mediterranée was inspired by the moment when someone brought a plate of cut figs at the garden of an Hermes's executive house in Tunisia, while Après la Mousson was purposely composed chasing the monsoon in Kerala, India), this latest entry feels a bit constrained.

Constrained for associations: Hermès tend to a rooftop garden (i.e.jardin sur le toît, you see) at Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré above their Parisian headquarters, but come on; how spontaneous would it be to search for inspiration so close to home now, I ask you? Constrained for accomplishments, too: The fragrance feels a sort of déjà vu, despite its poetic arc and delicacy of execution, traits typically Ellena. Finally, constrained for marketing: Hermès went out on a limb ~amidst braving the hostile take-over attempts from LVMH~ and invited journalists to a cooking class, a horticulturist's part-time occupation and a press presentation no less, all three rolled into one! So the question is, does the fragrance succeed in what it set out to do? It depends on the angle from which you're watching it unfold.

From a purely aesthetic viewpoint, Un Jardin sur le Toît is ~as always for latter part of the house's fragrance portfolio~ an ethereal, beautiful, elegant composition. I wouldn't expect anything else from perfumer Jean Claude Ellena who eschews easy, run-of-the-mill recipes in order to cut out his own path. Un Jardin sur le Toît is typical Ellena; fans will be on the verge of orgasming, detractors will complain about his vegetal, unusual -for standard luxury- accords once again.  But therein lies the danger of repeating himself as well: The problem with Un Jardin sur le Toît is exactly what should be its strong suit: It's so reflective of its creator it's hard to differentiate it from his other opus. The top section is eerily reminiscent of Kelly Calèche, the drydown dangerously close to the woody-green parts of Un Jardin sur le Nil. Much as one might love both fragrances (and I do), they might wonder at the necessity of launching a separate third fragrance which sounds very much like conceptual looping: the accords sound like a talented DJ's sample scratches, looped into infinity. Inside info wants Jean Claude Ellena to have deemed the Jardin series complete at number three (that's Mousson) and being actively coaxed into producing a fourth one. Pas mal, considering.

Un Jardin sur le Toît from Hermès takes the scent of wet soil, foliage and wild flowers (really, a vegetable patch) as the stepping stone into an herbal epanalepsis of its creator's favourite soundbites. The top stage is effervescent with the tomato leaf (vert de tomate), slightly bitter green, pungent accord that he favours so much (even as far back as Sisley's Eau de Campagne). Whereas in the past this was a bracing breath of fresh air, totally unpolluted, this time Ellena fuses a slightly sweaty element; a bit tarrish, a bit like wet dogs, a bit like compost, in a good way, which merges in a refined way with the more flowery (rose) and fruity (pear, apple) elements. The rose is transparent, more like the greenery in L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Ditpyque or its tratment in Kelly Calèche than anything overtly feminine; peppered and citrusy, a whiff of magnolia in there. Officially classified as a floral fruity, this Rooftop Garden fragrance is as wildly removed from the standard surupy floral fruity as À la Claire Fontaine is from a mass supermarket jingle. Jean Claude Ellena describes it ‘the scent of sunlight and pleasure… a fruity botanical floral’ and that's totally on mark.
Fairly linear and totally unisex, Un Jardin sur le Toî, sustains that repetitive vegetal chord over an indeterminate woody-mossy bass which gives the background that makes the fragrance last and last. The inclusion of oakmoss (evernia prunastri) is what is so sorely missing from many modern time chypres: Who knew the elation of getting one's hands in good, honest earth was only a rooftop away?

The new Hermès fragrance comes in the standard bottles of Les Jardins series, this time in light green bottom, available in 50ml (£55) and 100ml sizes at the eponymous boutiques, major department stores and online.


music A La Claire Fontaine by Shang Wen Jie

Later Day Chypre Quiz

I am busy organising a project on historical "chypres" and the restrictions on oakmoss affecting their status and perception by the public which will involve university students. In the interests of helping me out in this research, I would like you to offer me your insights: Which older chypres in your opinion are ruined and which have remained more or less worthwhile? (even if changed) Which newer, modern chypre fragrances are worth testing and how do they flesh out the chypre concept according to you?

For those who are not sure what a chypre fragrance is, please refer to this link for the definition of chypre fragrances and some historical chypres. Refer to this link for the new breed of "pink chypres" or "nouveau chypres" fragrances. And to this article for what the chypre concept translates to from an aesthetic point of view. (see if you agree or not!)

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Bouquet No.2: new fragrance

After last year's Bouquet No.1, the succession has materialised at Guerlain:  
Aqua Allegoria Bouquet Numero 2, developed by in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser is presented with the tag line of old in vintage Guerlain advertisements: "inspired by nature, created by Guerlain".

The new take in Bouquet No.2 is on more tropical accords, rather than fresh florals unlike last year's edition; this time centered on the fruity notes of litchi, fanned on rose and iris for tenacity and elegance. The bottle is the typical, familiar 75ml/2.5oz spray bottle with the beehove latticework on top, the standard of the Aqua Allegoria line, to be distributed as a travel retail exclusive (much like last years Bouquet No.1).
According to the official Guerlain blurb: "Nature is an emotionally-charged setting where we gather treasures, which inspires and enfolds us. Every year, when springtime comes, the Guerlain perfumer conjures up gardens filled with scents, in a blend of allegory and exhilaration."

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mandarine: fragrance review

Mandarine by L'Artisan Parfumeur began its "career" under a different guise: a limited edition bottle for summer 2006 under the name Mandarine Tout Simplement (i.e. Simply Mandarin), along with the regular line launch of Fou d'Absinthe, based on absinth. Mandarine is recently re-issued in the regular bottles of L'Artisan, in 50ml/1.7oz size, so it's fitting to give it a review.

Extremely true to the mandarin fruit, succulent and fresh and tart, Mandarine by L'Artisan Parfumeur is really as if you have piched your nails on the rind of a ripe mandarin, juice dribbling down your fingers, the tartness almost spritzing you in the eye. Then it fans out into a little indeterminable wood accord, of which cedar seems to be the main note. It's pretty simple and unadorned by weighty accents.
The succulent, lightly peachy-bubblegum note that you might detect after a while is due to frangipani. Nevertheless, this is not at all a floral perfume by any means, nor a floral fruity either. It stays resolutely within the realm of fruity woody. As soon as one sprays Mandarine one is transported to a sunny place, with a bowl of fruits on the porch and a summery frock on. Sunglasses optional : this is a friendly , not aloof scent at all. Rather sweet, but the tartness keeps it from being cloying.

Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her unusual watery creations that are far from the "marine" type of frags so typical of the 90s (witness the watery ambience in Navegar or her Preparation Parfumee for Andree Putman) and her beloved dough/yeast note (as in the cucumber-watery lilacs of En passant ), but here I can detect none. That's a good thing to me personally, because sometimes they ruin the perfume for me.
Mandarine makes you go "ahhhhh" at first sniff , but then it disappears suddenly. I have no trouble with most L'artisan fragrances and their staying power (I regularly wear Premier Figuier, Timbuktu,Oeillet Sauvage without problems to give you an idea), but of course citrus and hesperidic notes are volatile to begin with, hence the swift evaporation. For those who complain about short-lived staying power, that might be a concern. Now that it comes in a 50ml bottle, it would be a "killer" to have in your bag and spray away at the first opportunity.

More info on availability &shopping on the L'Artisan site.

Which is YOUR preferred fruity fragrance for summer? 

Painting of Mandarins via Sadie e Valeri blog

FiFi Awards 2011: the Complete List

The Fifi Awards are the Oscars of perfumery, sort of. They're organised and awarded by the Fragrance Foundation and demand clout in the industry. Here is the complete list for 2011, courtesy of the Fragrance Foundation. I'll let you be the judge of the choices...

Fragrance Hall of Fame
To be nominated for The Fragrance Hall of Fame, Award, a fragrance must be on the market 15 years or more, and supported by marketing strategies, which helped the fragrance achieve awareness and success in 2010.

FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME WOMEN’S
Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey
Beauté Prestige International

FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME MEN’S
Jean Paul Gaultier 'Le Male'
Beauté Prestige International

CONSUMERS' CHOICE AWARD MEN’S
BATH & BODY WORKS SIGNATURE COLLECTION FOR MEN TWILIGHT WOODS

CONSUMERS' CHOICE AWARD WOMEN’S
BOMBSHELL - VICTORIA’S SECRET

FRAGRANCE SUPERSTAR
Gucci Guilty

FRAGRANCE SALES BREAKTHROUGH OF THE YEAR
At the discretion of the Board of Directors, a retailer can be recognized for having done something out of the ordinary. This year, it was decided to honor a brand, who at retail, achieved record-breaking sales to set a new benchmark:
Mary J. Blige and Carol’s Daughter.

Halle Berry - The Elizabeth Taylor Fragrance Celebrity of the Year Award
This award, presented by the Foundation’s Board of Directors is to honor a celebrity who has embraced and promoted the world of fragrance over a period of time. It celebrates the ongoing success and support given by the celebrity to the industry and therefore attracting consumers to the category.

Fergie - 2011 FiFi® New Fragrance Celebrity of the Year Award
Selected by the Foundation’s Board of Directors, this award recognizes a celebrity whose very first fragrance has enjoyed instant success with the consumer and brought recognition to the fragrance category.

EDITORIAL EXCELLENCE IN FRAGRANCE COVERAGE – WOMEN’S SCENT FEATURE WINNER
ALLURE – POETIC LICENSE, SEPTEMBER 2010

EDITORIAL EXCELLENCE IN FRAGRANCE COVERAGE- MEN’S SCENT FEATURE WINNERS
A TIE!
ELLE MAGAZINE – PICKING UP HIS SCENT, DECEMBER 2010
MARIE CLAIRE MAGAZINE – MAKING SCENTS FOR MEN, OCTOBER 2010

EDITORIAL EXCELLENCE IN FRAGRANCE COVERAGE – WOMEN’S SCENT BITE WINNER
ELLE MAGAZINE – MIX MASTERS, SEPTEMBER 2010

EDITORIAL EXCELLENCE IN FRAGRANCE COVERAGE – BLOG
ELLE.COM – AN EAU OF OUR OWN, OCTOBER 2010

TECHNOLOGICAL BREAKTHROUGH OF THE YEAR – FRAGRANCE CREATION & FORMULATION
ROBERTET FRAGRANCES – “SEED TO SCENT”

TECHNOLOGICAL BREAKTHROUGH OF THE YEAR – PACKAGING TECHNOLOGY & DELIVERY SYSTEMS
INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES – “REDKEN RADIANT SEA SPRAY”

TECHNOLOGICAL BREAKTHROUGH OF THE YEAR –INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY
FIRMENICH – osMOZ iPHONE APP

BATH & BODY LINE OF THE YEAR
COCO MADEMOISELLE BATH ESSENTIALS - CHANEL

INTERIOR SCENT COLLECTION OF THE YEAR
JONATHAN ADLER “HAPPY CHIC” – THE MAESA GROUP FOR JONATHAN ADLER

BEST PACKAGING OF THE YEAR - WOMEN’S LUXE
GUCCI GUILTY – P & G PRESTIGE

BEST PACKAGING OF THE YEAR - MEN’S LUXE
MARC JACOBS BANG – COTY PRESTIGE

BEST PACKAGING OF THE YEAR - WOMEN’S BROAD APPEAL
BOMBSHELL – VICTORIA’S SECRET

BEST PACKAGING OF THE YEAR - MEN’S BROAD APPEAL
HERVE LEGER HOMME – AVON PRODUCTS

BEST MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR - WOMEN’S
GUCCI GUILTY – P & G PRESTIGE

BEST MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR - MEN’S
BLEU DE CHANEL - CHANEL

PERFUME EXTRAORDINAIRE
GIVAUDAN

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR - SPECIALTY BRAND – MEN’S
BANANA REPUBLIC/REPUBLIC OF MEN ESSENCE EAU DE TOILETTE – INTER PARFUMS USA

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR - SPECIALTY BRAND – WOMEN’S
BOMBSHELL – VICTORIA’S SECRET

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR - BROAD APPEAL – MEN’S
HERVE LEGER HOMME – AVON PRODUCTS, INC.

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR - BROAD APPEAL – WOMEN’S
HALLE BY HALLE BERRY PURE ORCHID – COTY

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER
MY LIFE BY MARY J BLIGE – CAROL’S DAUGHTER

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR SPECIALTY LUXE – MEN’S
TOM FORD AZURE LIME – TOM FORD BEAUTY

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR SPECIALTY LUXE – WOMEN’S
BALENCIAGA PARIS – COTY PRESTIGE

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR - INDIE BRAND
SIX SCENTS PARFUMS: SERIES THREE (UNISEX) – SIX SCENTS PARFUMS

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR - MEN’S LUXE
BLEU DE CHANEL – CHANEL

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR - WOMEN’S LUXE
GUCCI GUILTY – P &G PRESTIGE

For the first time, two top scorers of The Fragrance Foundation’s Online Certification Exam for Sales Specialists were recognized from the Fall 2010 and Spring 2011 sessions:
Fall 2010 Top Scorer: Amanda Markey, C.F.S.S. Nordstrom, Ross Park, Pennsylvania.
Spring 2011 Top Scorer: Nicole Maki, C.F.S.S. Nordstrom, Mall of America, Bloomington, Minnesota.

Twin Peaks: Musc Ravageur & L de Lolita Lempicka

Tracing kindred spirits in perfumery is occasionally as uncomplicated as finding the common mastermind behind them. In the case of Musc Ravageur and L de Lempicka that one is none other than Maurice Roucel, celebrated perfumer and creator of some of the most delectable orientals and florientals in existence (and the occasional stellar chyprish floral, such as in K de Krizia). Although the fragrances are not 100% interchangeable, as evident in my review below, they bear a keen similarity that would have lovers of one eager to discover the other and those on a budget discovering a smell-alike that isn't a travesty.

In Musc Ravageur the explosive departure of bergamot, tangerine and cinnamon is set against a backdrop of vanilla, musk and amber. No flowers, just a refined skin scent. Yet contrary to name, Musc Ravageur isn't really about musk! Though it is rather "dirty". It's more of a spicy oriental, old-school-style and raw. And the reason I am including it in a section devoted to musks is mainly due to nomenclature and readers' expectation.
If you have been fearing (or loving, like myself) the reputation of Muscs Kublai Khan and Christopher Brosius I Hate Perfume Musk Reinvented, you will be puzzled by this one, recalling as it does the base of such classic orientals as Shalimar or even less classical, like Teatro alla Scala by Krizia.

Smelling Musc Ravageur on skin one cannot but form an opinion towards the latter. Musc Ravageur, just like the big paws of its creator, is more of a naughty & voracious home cat with a furry tongue giving you a bath, rather than a wild tiger in the jungle shredding its prey in pieces. A very sensual amber -rather than musk, compare with Kiehl's Original Musk oil for instance- is hiding in the core of the fragrance. A characteristic citrus-spice top note is there (I detect clove and lavender as well), which recalls the Gallified "oriental" mould, and a silky vanilla-amber dry down which isn't really sweet, but interplaying between warm & cool, almost a bit herbal. The artistry lies in having the amber perform like a Chinese gymnast: all over the place, but with an elasticity that creates the illusion of weightlessness!

The fashion designer with the borrowed names, Lolita Lempicka, came up with a wonderful vanillic scent in L de Lempicka, that has lured even me, who am not crazy about vanilla like -apparently- most of the rest of the female population at this particular moment in perfume history. L is no ordinary childish foody vanilla because it manages to combine an ambery depth with a salty kiss, like skin baked in the Mediterranean sun, under a cloudless azure sky. Featuring immortelle flower, the infamous note in Annick Goutal’s Sables and Christian Dior Eau Noire, it has a weird sense of hot summer images (immortelle is a very usual sight around the Mediterranean coast) despite vanilla’s traditional association with winter and homely smells. A cul de sac manicurist's existence in a crammed, abandonded apartment in the suburbs of some French town during the summer perhaps? More appealing, surely.
In Sables the impression is more of a wearable maple syrup, a very warm hug, a drier beach with no fish like that near a fossilised forest at the island of Lesbos. Sables is like seeing the earth’s history in a long gaze and a moment of eternity becoming yours.
L de Lempicka comparatively is much tamer than the Goutal and for that reason, above all, it will undoubtedly be more popular. It features also orange and cinnamon notes that contribute to the likeness I detect with Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur. However the effect is not as spicy-dense in L de Lempicka, while at the same time L comes off as more calorific and rounder, more ambery. L de Lempicka also lists almond , bergamot, precious woods (sandalwood) , tonka bean (coumarin notes)and solar musks. It comes in Parfum and eau de parfum and my review is based on the latter.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: see more smell-alikes on the Twin Peaks articles link

Photos of Catherine Deneuve,top via MademoiselleB, bottom film still from Roman Polanski's thriller Repulsion

A Royal Celebrity Scent: When the Perfume Business Becomes The Crown

It's not enough that royals are represented by their fragrance choices to the greater perfume appreciating audience, like Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge (and formely known as Kate Middleton) did recently,  skyrocketing sales by a niche perfumery. Now Henrik, prince consort of Denmark, spouse of Margerita of Denmark, 76 and an accomplished sculptor, writer and poet, is going to launch his very own perfume, sold under the -very Spartan- name "H".

According to the palace press release by Lene Belleby: "The prince has choisen the ingredients of his perfume hiself and the fragrance will be exclusively sold at the château de Caïx". Château de Caïx (also, de Cayx), for those who didn't know this information (I was among them, I must admit) is the French soil residence of the royal Danish couple, located at the south-western regions of the country where the prince is also producing fine wine from the local Cahors vineyeards for decades.
The fragrance has been developed by the Danish cosmetics line GOSH (who also produce a lovely, simple musk) and features notes of grapefruit and cedar. H, the royal fragrance of prince Henrik of Denmark, will be sold at the boutique of the château alongside his wine bottles production. A nice memento for those visiting, I should gather!

Best Smelling Inexpensive Fragrances

When it comes to fragrances democratic forces seem to be at work: There is something good to be found at all price points. The smartness lies in finding it amidst prejudices against "cheap" (there's a difference between cheap-smelling and low price, they're not necessarily interchangeable) and against "mass market". Not to mention feeling secure in one's tastes vis-à-vis others and their own preconceptions upon revealing what you're wearing.
After all, almost everyone in the industry is using the same palette of fragrant ingredients and the same perfume authors (perfumers working for major companies), so the real difference lies only in actual concept, indie companies or those using all naturals which naturally (no pun intended) fetch a high cost of raw materials.
So let's concentrate on the smarts: What are the most worthwhile inexpensive fragrances on the market that you won't be embarassed to put on your person? For our purposes nothing costs more than 20 euros on regular retail on this top smelling, cheap thrills list.

Yardley Iris

If you have been investing in Hermes Hiris all these years, run, don't walk, to go try this iris fragrance offered by the traditionally British brand Yardley. In their new look line of soliflores (including Lily of the Valley among them), Iris is a valiant effort at offering a more than decent orchestration of that melancholic, part sensuous flesh, part somber, metallic timbre effect that all good iris fragrances project.For the price, quite impressive!

Yves Rocher Pur Desir de Gardenia
Probably the most realistic budding gardenia in existence (tie with Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Lauder) at a fraction of the price. Gardenias are recreations anyway, so the low price only proves how analytic chemistry can serve a perfumista's wet dream. Rendered through the magic of jasmolactones, Pure Desir de Gardenia is a wonderful, magical fragrance. It goes on and off the market, apparently, so grab it when you see it.

Lily Prune Patchouli Chic
The Lily Prune line (a subset of the Ulrik de Varens house) has been created with someone who knows just what hot buttons to push: a great starchy musk, a fabulous pod-like vanilla, a plausible woody that isn't too synthetic, and yes, a great wearable patchouli. Patchouli Chic is a chic patchouli scent indeed, fusing powdery nuances and the light sweetness of vanilla to flank the more exotic shades of the Eastern bush.

Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely
In a sea of Narciso Rodriguez For Her smell-alikes, trying but no cigar for most, this celebrity fragrance in the floral woody musky category is the only truly worth investing contender. And it's not going to break the bank. Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker shimmers with a smiling mien, pretty, light but definitely there, at the cusp between slightly dirty and shower clean. Forget the official "notes" about lavender and appletini that referenced the persona of Carrie in Sex & The City (which made possible for its star to front this fragrance), this is a sweet musk laced with a white floral accord. Abso-fucking-lutely lovely as Mr.Big would say!

Tabac by Maurer &Wirtz
The classic Tabac from 1955 is a reference aromatic fouger for those who have upgraded from their "me too" "chick magnet" fragrance choices. Preferable in the Eau de Cologne concentration (which is just as potent as Eau de Toilette), this is a good barber shop scent, the fusion of old-fashioned talc and laundry day lavender, clean with a whiff of mossy tobacco.
Top notes are aldehydes, lavender, neroli, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are carnation, sandalwood, orris root, jasmine, rose and pine tree needles; base notes are tonka bean, amber, musk, vanilla, oakmoss and tobacco.

Lidl Suddenly Lady Glamour
A very unassuming choice, coming from a German supermarket brand no less at huge markedown, but smell it side by side with Coco Mademoiselle and you just might be hard pressed to discern which smells better. I don't know what this says about Chanel, but it's good news for the pockets of those on a very tight budget not minding a dupe.

Zara Black Eau de Toilette
Zara on the other hand, despite the economical prices for high street fashion that looks as good as designer pret-a-porter is no slouch when it comes to glamourising its product. But the prices for their perfumes are still very good, probably because they follow the axiom of the clothes (covetable designs in affordable prices for chic Europeans). Zara Black smells like a very credible effort to reconciliate Flowerbomb with a softer aspect, rosy-fruitish and sweet with a delicious underlay of patchouli & musk. Zara fragrances are not to be bypassed.

Goeffrey Bean Grey Flannel
Geoffrey Been stroke gold with his Grey Flannel, a proud American classic and an innovative men’s cologne, bringing the shyness of violets into the realm of masculine confidence. Crisp greenery and musk tonalities (plus that seductive coumarin in the bottom) combine to evoke a man in a tailored suit, perfectly groomed, clean-smelling without one iota of modern aquatic “freshness” nevertheless. The man who wears this in cooler weather is the quiet type, a smart businessman or someone who has been opting for it for half his life and wisely knows not to change. If it ain’t broken, don’t fix it, as they say. The only misstep? Perhaps that flannel in question is really purplish green instead of grey. But we can be very forgiving in his case…

Halston by Halston
Iconic American designer of the 1970s Halston launched his eponymous fragrance for women in 1975. A graceful and confident chypre blend for women of the same spirit, Halston fuses minty green accords with melon and peach, seguing into a floral core rife with warm and sensual woods. A little soapy, quite celebral and yet sensuous compared to other sudsy fragrances aimed at germphobes or nuns.

Halston Z-14 (for men)
Mentioning the Halston brand twice should tell you something. Halston Z-14 is a masculine leather fragrance with aromatic accents (artemisia, basil, cypress) and mossy greens which was introduced as far back as 1974; nothing lasts that long on the market without merit! Giving it a sniff you will find out just what that first dedicated, loyal band of men knew all along: It acts on women like catnip does on cats! Boozy, deep and totally sexy, Halston Z14 is to be avoided by the very young, probably, but if you’re a man and not a boy, then, boy, will this be your badge of honor!

Princess Marella Borghese Il Bacio
Launched by the design house of Marcella Borghese in 1993, Il Bacio, meaning The Kiss in Italian, is that particular marvel: a good fruity floral. Fresh and crisp without screechiness nor surupy sweetness, it accents rose, iris and honeysuckle with the fruity armful of plum, melon and passionfruit, all on a base ofmusky amber. It sounds disgusting, I know, but give it a try. It's quite elegant and feminine, rather than juvenile.

What's YOUR favourite perfume steal?

Prada Candy: new fragrance

A new mainstream perfume by Prada is always reason to perk up one's ears. The Prada line, masterminded by perfumer Daniela Andrier is full of elegant, sleek compositions that meld with the wearer's skin; modern, but not out there; restrained but not insipid; in fact some of the best no brainers for people with brains.

The latest seems incongruent going by the name only, being named Prada Candy (Odd decision! Imagine the Google searches!).

But the composition sounds rather promising all the same: elegant musks up top, benzoin resin in the lower range of notes (much like in their best-selling Infusion d'Iris scent) and a caramel drydown which probably is the reference point for the name. I hypothesize it will be meant as a skin scent, much like most in the line-up is (especially the lovely Prada L'Eau Ambrée) and not a tooth-aching gourmand.

The bottle reminds me of a coffee press pot for filtered coffee. Very Bodum!
Prada Candy will hit stores in August 2011.

Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri: new fragrance

The upcoming Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille, by Camille Goutal, marks the 30th anniversary of the house of Annick Goutal. The company was founded by Camille's pianist mother Annick and continued after the latter's demise by her daughter Camille to this day. Collaborating for long with perfumer Isabelle Doyen, the style of Annick Goutal fragrances is very French, feminine pretty and yet witty too.

This time, inspired by Colette novels, specifically the Claudine novels, the fragrance promises to encapsulate the mischievous, sensuous and adventurous spirit of the heroine herself. It's odd that Claudine features so highly in the concept, as the mere mention of Chéri in the name (literally "beloved" in French) reminds Colette readers of the cocksure, young and inwardly insecure hero by the same nickname.
Still, the creators reference a throwback to the golden age of Hollywood as well, instilling the creation with a retro glamour, dark red liquid in the classic gold gaudron-capped ribbed bottle in shades of violet, this time the ornamentary tag ribbon taking on a stripped pattern in anthracite.
The new Annick Goutal fragrance Mon Parfum Chéri (i.e. My Beloved Perfume) belongs to the floral woody musky fragrance family and features notes of Indonesian patchouli, powdery notes, violet, iris, heliotrope and sweet prunes. It will be available in Eau de Toilette concentration in 50ml and 100ml and in Eau de Parfum concentration in 100ml. The launch is set to be exclusively at Harrods, London on the 1st of July and world-wide distribution is set for September 2011.

The winner of the draw...

....for the Oscar de la Renta bottle is Estella N. Congratulations! Please send me your data using the profile or contact email so I can forward your shipping address to the proper person who will have your prize in the mail for you.

Thanks to everyone for the enthusiastic participation and till the next one!

Chanel to Launch Les Exclusifs Jersey & Chanel No.19 Poudre flanker

It was a matter of being due at Chanel: Chanel No.19 is such a revered classic (and a very popular mature woman choice in my country) that it would be a misstep not to exploit this by rendering a new flanker, aimed at the younger audiences who might be introduced to the brand of No.19 via that gateway.
Enter No.19 Poudré, the latest mainstream fragrance by Chanel, as revealed in a lengthy interview by Jacques Polge on Women's Wear Daily, which will hit the stores in the summer of 2011.

The composition, much like Cristalle Eau Verte did for Cristalle and Eau Premiere did for No.5, will highlight the lighter, more diaphanous elements in the formula, with the lately popular veil of modernised, sheer powder accord (as in Love,Chloé and Esprit d'Oscar). The powdery effect will be rendered through novel musks plus iris, an already major component of the classic No.19. According to veteran perfumer Jacques Polge who is only the third head perfumer for Chanel, since 1978:

"We've found some new musks that are very interesting, and we're working a lot at the moment on iris, which is a very important ingredient in No.19 Poudré. We have our plantations in Grasse, with rose and jasmine, and we're trying to find new qualities in those. But we're also trying to reproduce what was done 40 years ago, that nobody does anymore".

Other ingredients featured prominently in No.19 Poudré besides iris and musk are jasmine and neroli. The concentration is Eau de Parfum, as shown on the bottle.

My personal view on the new flanker launch? It's dubious whether classicists will be pleased by the new No.19 flanker, but it does sound like it will be heavy on those "novel" musks and iris (probably boosted by synth alternatives as well) to project at a powdery pitch. Powdery is a new trend in the market which would have fans of the older version (I'm one of them) not too mad at the new.
Who knows? A flanker usually means the continuation of a brand: I would like to see the No.19 brand going rather than being left behind in the wake of more popular things.

As to Jersey, it is the name of the upcoming Chanel Les Exclusifs, joining Beige, Sycomore, 31 Rue Cambon, 28 La Pausa, Coromandel, Eau de Cologne, Bel Respiro, No.18, Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, Gardenia and No.22. [links open up reviews of respective scents]. The name had been trademarked a long while ago, as we rgularly predict trends on these pages based on that, and it remains to be seen what treatment the masterminds of Jacques Polges and Chris Sheldrake are envisioning this emblematic fabric of Coco Chanel ~which made her famous (and infamous)~ will translate into. Referencing couture through fragrance is not unknown to Chanel. If we're allowed a little deliberation, a white floral is missing from the Exclusifs line. Or specifically a magnolia, one of the latest notes du jour, begging for a luxury spin.
Edit to add: Preliminary testing suggests Chanel Les Exclusifs Jersey is a clean fragrance with notes of lavender, vanilla and white musks. We will update with a full review.

Release dates for Chanel No.19 Poudré are 1st of June for London (on preview at Selfridges) and 15 days later for the rest of the UK and Europe, available at major department stores.
Chanes Les Exclusifs Jersey will hit stores in autumn 2011 as part of the Chanel boutiques circuit and online at the US store.

thanks to AlbertCA for bringing this to my attention, pic via Grazia scan online

Missoni Aria: fragrance review

Composed in 1987, Aria by Missoni is predictably as big as a house. In the 1980s, you see, fragrances announced themselves from around the block like a fat man with a protruding belly and you could smell them down the office corridor too long after the cleaning ladies had picked up after the staff (Missoni themselves had the now discontinued ~and replaced by a completely different animal by the same name~ Missoni by Missoni from 1982). For a fruity floral, the olfactory category equivalent of the shy type at the party who wants to blend in, yet appear a bit flirty like all the other girls, Aria is an unlikely candidate, a masquerade of a bold floral which dons a silly pineapple hair clip in case anyone takes her too seriously.

By no means dissonant, Aria is an euphoric big burst of a bubblegum actually, so suffused with flavourful florals and flowery fruits that it's easy to lose track and imagine things that are not there. The image of a giant, juicy fuschia bubblegum derives from the pink jasmine used, plus ylang ylang, which is buttressed by banana-pineaplle and peachy-lactonic notes. One edge is sweet, the other edge is rather tangy and the combined effect is melodious and expansive; the best of both worlds, really.

Aria never really caught many ears or noses at its time, probably because the brand wasn't particularly in your face and kept an elegant but vivacious Italian tricot profile, i.e. it never caught on the American market. Or it might have to do with the ugly bottle, a plain glass phial toped by a sincerely plastic purple cap that could adorn Debbie Gibson's Electric Youth or something. It just didn't feel like luxury, from the looks of it. Today, Aria by Missoni is discontinued, like much else from that time-frame: now that fruity florals are a dime a dozen it sounds like it's a shameful loss of especially good, happy jingles.
You can find old stock at stockists/online discounters or auction sites. There's even some at Amazon right now.

Notes for Missoni Aria:
Top notes: lemon, bergamot, pineapple, banana, raspberry, peach
Heart notes: carnation, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose
Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, vanilla and cedar.

Annick Goutal Le Mimosa: fragrance review

For a lover of mimosa, spoiled on the honeyed powdery facets of Caron's Farnesiana or the cassie-rich musky-animalic meowing of Une Fleur de Cassie (F.Malle), Goutal's take on the yellow pom-pom flowers seems anaemic and watery; too innocent, too puerile, too fleeting... In fact, if you're looking for a "true" mimosa (like the one by L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa pour Moi with its violet and milky undercurrent) you will be crestfallen.

The mimosa blossom is a sign of spring hope, nature's awakenings, blooming as it does all bright yellow and proud in the end of winter and decorating the countryside with its shady branches that are carrying hundreds of yellow fluffy little bundles of joy; childlike, optimistic, bursting with energy and sweet smiles. Composed of the absolute of mimosa, a hint of iris, peach and white musks, the Goutal take on this floral scent evokes a delicate and subtle sweetness. (See also Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée by Hermès for a fine rendition)

The impression of Annick Goutal's Le Mimosa is nevertheless much more of a soft, fuzzy peachy note that overimposes itself over a Johnson's chamomille shampoo and clean orange blossom accord, the latter dominating the heart of the composition. Curiously enough, the (natural) mimosa absolute raw material is there (indeed it shares facets with the above, plus anisic nuances), so this is definitely an aesthetic choice; probably in line with the intended coherence inside the Goutal soliflores line. Perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal (Annick's daughter in charge of the house now) envisioned a soliflore that is ethereal, much like the other soliflores in their line-up (Des Lys, Le Jasmin, Le Cheuvrefeuille etc.). Eau de Charlotte already a good dosage of mimosa as well. They were also thinking of the audience who buy Petite Chérie and Quel Amour by the bucketload, apparently. Clearly I am not among them, preferring the intensity of Passion or Grand Amour, yet I can understand the need to play around a material which is almost emblematic of France and Grasse [Follow my route along the mimosa road on this link]. Le Mimosa is not entirely without merit.

Annick Goutal Le Mimosa is available at Annick Goutal stockists from February 2011 onwards. It was announced as a limited edition. The bottle takes on a polka-dot ribbon in yellow and black for the occasion.

Notes for Annick Goutal Le Mimosa:
bergamot, anise, mimosa absolute, iris, peach, white musk, sandalwood

Painting by Greek painter Knostantinos Parthenis, The Apotheosis of Athanassios Diakos, c.1933

Fragrance Choices of the Famous...Again

When back in 2000 we first started putting out the fragrances chosen by the rich and famous (and several historical personages in the mix as well, including royalty) we had been compiling for years in what culminated into the Fragrances that Famous People Wear list, we had no idea this feature would be so popular. Now it seems magazines online pick up on our crumbles and the rest of the celebrity frag listers by mentioning these date for easy-lazy reportage. The latest article on the Daily Gossip is just that, picking alphabetically a handful of names to kickstart an article about fans who want to fashion themselves about their favourite stars. If your favourite star is between Adriana Lima and Dita von Teese, you might find some suggestions to at least inspire your next sampling spree.

Which Type of Perfume Collector Are You?

Among the perfume aficionados set you will find several types: The "I follow only fragrances costing upper of 300$ a pop or hard-to-get niches launched only in Rovianemi"; the "I worship at the shrine of Trish-au-four and everything else is just dog crap stuck on his sole"; the "Give me a good thick unwearable woody emblazoned with oud on the label and I'm set"; the "I chuckle through my fine mustaches as I drive thousands of people to sample expensive things which I semi-loathe, but they're the newest thing and I have to try it out first, don't I".

There are other less aggressive or opinionated ~take your pick~ types as well; from the well meaning housewife who is now living vicariously through her perfume cabinet (brandishing Bandit here and unleashing Fracas there), hidden underneath the mementos of her children who flew the nest for worthwhile pursues of their own (who knows, they might in turn hide a perfume cabinet underneath their university dorm sink!) or the businessman who is hearing tirades on software all day long and relaxes at home with a good old glass of whiskey and a dab of vintage Vetiver on his dressing gown. There is the fashionista type who collects all the latest designer fragrances building a collection, which hard-edge members of specialized fora might sneer at, but who knows her Dolce The One from her Chanel Coco Mademoiselle down pat and can give you a mean advice or two on how to pick stuff for gifts. A subset of that one displays her wares proudly on her dresser, to the amazement of all her friends who ask "do you use all that stuff?" like a clueless person would ask a wine collector whether they drink all that stuff.

There is also the seasoned kind of perfume collector who has become a bit bored with one's self over the years, constantly weeding stuff from the fragrance wardrobe, but at the same time continuously lured in by novelties that promise to be the revolution of the industry in a bottle or by unmissable bargains on an old standby which -guess what- won't be available that much longer.

There is the eager novice who desires to partake of the holy sacraments with an urgency approaching that of hysteria, yet feels unworthy deep down, trying to manipulate himself into liking a revered fragrant beast like Mitsouko instead of vice versa.
There is even the mock perfumista who posts on discussion boards about acquisitions but in reality hasn't even opened one bottle of perfume, setting them on the side for profitable meta-selling when the drive for the elusive has reached improportionate heights. And surely, there are uncharted waters which I might have missed.

Which is YOUR type?


mini perfumes tray collection via 1950s Atomic Ranch House and of bottles collection via Through my Eyes Beauty

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial: fragrance review

Much as I was predisposed to at least enjoy the unashamedly girly Idylle Duet and dislike the sanctimonious (I thought) Shalimar Parfum Initial, both new releases by the historic house of Guerlain, the perfume gods tipped the scales off and landed me into a case of reverse hubris: I found myself being quite lukewarm on the former, while enjoying very much the latter! How's that for irony?

Indeed Shalimar Parfum Initial, credited to perfumer Thierry Wasser as well, is in almost an unrecognisable style to the other feminine release of this year: rich, satisfying, with a smoothly polished texture like silk moiré, it bears little relation to the anaemic and maudlin composition of Idylle Duet. A sufficient dose of healthy scepticism had struck me like a ton of bricks upon setting eyes on the press release images of the new flanker to the iconic Shalimar: a pink Shalimar, for Christ's sake? Isn't anything sacred? My eyebrows were reaching the roots of my hair in exasperation! But upon testing the actual jus on my skin and letting the blotters, lavishly soaked with it,  on my desk for some days I realised that, corny as it might sound, we're not to judge a book by its cover. Shalimar Parfum Initial is the brave, valiant and well-crafted effort of Wasser and Guerlain to present the house with their own Eau Première, much like Chanel did with their own numeric monstre. After all, much of Guerlain's prestige resides indeed with such venerable classics as Mitsouko and Shalimar.So, what's wrong with "Mon Premier Shalimar", the tagline for this flanker fragrance, assuming the juice is good? Absolutely nothing, that's what.

From a marketing angle, everything is set for success with Shalimar Parfum Initial, aiming at the target Guerlain is so keen on attracting, the fashionable 20-something to 30-something woman with money to spare: The warm pink-fleshy tint of the liquid is familiar to consumers of fruity and gourmand perfumes, attracting them by the token that the colour of the juice is indicative of something more than just a pretty shade. The boosting of citrusy notes up top (the synthetic bergamot is not wildly different than the one used in the reformulated classic, yet it smells more vivid and more vibrant here) give the necessary "freshness" that is a sine qua non for modern audiences. The lush vanilla and tonka ensure that the trademark sultriness of the seductive original is not lost nevertheless.
The beautiful bottle (much sleeker in real life than in images) is tactile, friendly, yet imposing too; its deep blue cap with a tiny ribbon attached an homage to the classic design but also a pretty object that presents itself as something novel. Naked Natalia Vodianova posing in the advertisements of the perfume, shot by Paolo Roversi, is testament to the fact that both men and women stop to stare (and occasionally ogle) at a beautiful supermodel who promises sex at the wink of an otherwise nubile eye.All boxes checked for the marketing team, thank you very much!

The composition of Shalimar Parfum Initial focuses on a precarious balance: the standard oriental accord of bergamot and vanilla is fused with zesty orangeyand light notes which "lift" the base up much like Shalimar Light did with its lemon cupcake opening modernising the old standby admired on grandmas and mamas, but shyed away from my the daughters. Still, what would Shalimar be without the come hither? Guerlain quotes rose petals and jasmine for the floral elements, but it's essential to note that should you be searching for florals, you should look elsewhere: this is a wonderful and wonderfully oriental specimen with little flowery prose; all heaving, all sighing, with the seductive warmth of tonka beans (rich in the cut grass and hay note of coumarin) and of rich, caramelic vanilla pods on woods and what seems like the resinous opoponax. The addition of fresh, warm and sweetish white musk is something that would be polarising for the standard perfumista in search of more complex, "dirtier" musk, but the growling part is transmitted through the low hum of the smoky base that is as animalistically seductive as a rutting beast, just hiding beneath the subtle eroticism promised by the top notes. If I were to find a fault with Shalimar Parfum Initial it is that in essence it is no less than the 4th re-twinkinling of the tried & true Shalimar Light Eau Legere recipe in search of a frontman presenting it to the public now that Jean Paul Guerlain is exiled from his own house...

Shalimar Parfum Initial is available as 40ml, 60ml and 100ml of Eau de Parfum concentration, available from major department stores.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Guerlain fragrance reviews, Oriental fragrance reviews

Flankers/derivative versions of Shalimar by Guerlain (with linked reviews & comparison with original):

Shalimar Eau Legere/Shalimar Light

Eau de Shalimar

Shalimar Ode a la Vanille

Shalimar Parfum Initial

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau

Limited editions of Shalimar (without change in the perfume formula itself):

Eau de Shalimar Flower

Shalimar Charms edition & Eau de Shalimar Charms edition

Shalimar Fourreau du Soir

Shalimar extrait de parfum in Bacarrat quadrilobe flacon 2011 edition

The music in the commercial clip is Initials BB by Serge Gainsbourg.