What I Used This Summer: Sensuous Products & Yummy Discoveries

We're on the last day of summer, calendar-wise, and Labor Day weekend is upon us so my mind was cast to what happened in the previous months.  It was a summer filled with everything: much needed languor, some necessary stress, moving around a bit, lots of projects, learning new things such as macramé, refreshing my Italian and hot, hot, hot temperatures soaring for days on end (those of you in the US will sympathize and those of you in Western Europe will anathematize). That last bit naturally posed its own little limitations.

Thinking of what made the cut during these past few months, I came up with products, scents, foodstuff and sensuous little touches which brightened the long days and soothed the hot nights. Here's my personal list. Feel free to share your own in the comments!

via livia-momentsoflife.blogspot.com

Dr.Bronner's Peppermint Castile Soap
My reader Rosarita recommended this as a relief from the heat when I was complaining I was too hot to even consider continuing breathing (it felt that way) and asked for recs. Two words: it works! Tingling and cooling.

Guerlain Lys Soleia
The best feminine release from Guerlain by Wasser so far. A tropical fantasy of lily and sand dunes warmed by the sun.

Selin Limon Kolonyasi (traditional Turkish cologne)
Because there's something into old traditions that stands the test of time. The most refreshing touch after any activity, kept in the fridge for maximum effect.

Calone isn't totally incongruent with the sea...
Numerous times while swimming in the sea I noticed the faint whiff of watermelon in the distance (replicated by the fragrance industry in the synth Calone which defined the "marine" scents of the 1990s). At first I thought it was vacationers bringing their typical feta and watermelon treat in tupperware on ice-blocks for midday snacking. Then it dawned on me: the sea water does have a watermelon reminiscent component, or rather the fruit has a sea-like nuance (which explains its perfect pairing with the salty cheese). Amazing; it made for a renewed interest in seeing the nuts & bolts of marine perfumery, a very complex segment of the industry.

via hugo.com

Burberry Beauty Sheer Summer Glow
Most bronzers are either too dark or too orange-peach for my coolish skin (which naturally reddens in the sun and then attains a golden tint which fades quickly unless upkept). This limited edition collection of 4 shades in British-cool colors is perfect for managing the dosage for an optimum natural effect. Add mascara and a lip balm you're set for the day.

Ramon Monegal Mon Cuir
Best perfume discovery of the year so far. Dry and sophisticated powdery leather fragrance. To die for; there are no other words. Review coming up!

Ayala Moriel Etrog Oy de Cologne
Etrog is Hebrew for citron and citron is a delightful thing that remains inexplicably under the radar in most commercial perfumery. Light, tangy with pommelo, natural, with an aromatic, oleaginous background, Etrog Oy de Cologne is a scent to see you through hot summery noons and to brighten darker autumn dawns. Review coming up!

collage via pojkfroken.blogspot.com

Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche
Total abscence of flowers and fruits. A scent of solid white rock like a volcanic island emerging from the sea. Perennial summer fav. It feels as if Jean Claude Ellena conceived it on the island of Milos.

Bergamot spoon sweet on classic cheesecake
An unusual twist to the classic recipe that provide welcome tanginess and bittersweet nuances.

La Via del Profumo Tawaf
Hypnotic and mystical jasmine like never before, allied to Arabian tradition resins. Review coming up!

Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan mixed with simple white musk (Lutens's own Clair de Musc isn't a bad choice for this, but you can experiment with any clean musk really, a hint of white flowers in the mix is best)
An experiment (at a ratio of 1:3) that proved sometimes an intense, deep amber can fit even a heatwave. I know people use this oriental in the summer thanks to its herbal, aromatic top note which cuts the sweetness, but trust me, we were talking 105F/40C here...no laughing matter.

Jasmine Gin Fizz iced tea
Using jasmine-infused tea instead of soda in the classic recipe makes this super-easy and very cooling.

Roger & Gallet Vetyver Eau de Cologne
Delectable vetiver scent; light, smokey, with a hint of tobacco and hay underneath the citrus top. I'm cursing the day they discontinued this.

Mirto Lavender cologne
Greek pharmacy stand-by cologne that is sublime. Review coming up!

via rcakewalk.blogspot.com

Sour Cherry Jelly
Just use any red-fruit jelly mix and substitute water with fresh sour cherry juice. The result is more than the sum of its parts and garners compliments from everyone tasting it.

Etro Royal Pavillon
A tender and musky floral combination of jasmine, mimosa and ylang ylang with a mossy segment from 1989.

Ambre Solaire Golden Protection with Monoi SPF 30
Ambre Solaire is a European golden standard in that tropical floral scent we associate with South of France and Capri beaches. This year's edition is even more seductive, infused with a subtle monoi scent that just screams for sensuous application even when not on the beach.

Annick Goutal Musc Nomade
When I wanted to simulate "no perfume" skin, yet sought that indefinable aura that metallic vegetal musks only can render on the wearer. Tripy!




Farewelling summer with this song clip: "Summer rendez-vous upon your body" by Greek group Δυτικές Συνοικίες (i.e.Western Neighborhoods)
"the whole island a pebble by your feet,
the whole wide earth your embrace".

What did you use this summer? What did you discover?

Fragrance For the Day

If you're the type to co-ordinate your fragrance to the weather (and the mood it produces as a result) you might get a kick out of the new Fragrance Forecast feature of Lifestyle Mirror which matches scents to the weather forecast for New York City.

Curated by yours truly, this is today's prediction, while the week is full of participations by eminent colleagues such as Patty White of Perfume Posse, Mindy Yang of Min New York or Barney Bishop of Fragrant Moments.
Hope you have a lovely day wherever you are!

pic via pinterest

Diptyque Le Sablier, 34 Boulevard Saint Germain solid perfume, Do Son Eau de Parfum: new scented products

In staging the sensory and the poetic, Diptyque and Sébastien Servaire present a singular and unique object, coupled with a patented innovation that reinvents the ritual diffusion of perfume inside: le sablier, a device which diffuses home fragrance and resembles... an hourglass.

Priced at 110 euros for 75ml of fragrance, Diptyque's Sablier isn't cheap but it can fit a recharge of the same quantity for 34 euros thereafter. The scent offered is 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, a fresh, green and spicy scent named after the Diptyque address in Paris. The home fragrance comprises atypically green notes, humid moss, crumpled blackcurrant leaves, fig leaves dried in the sun. Spices, as can be felt on the markets of Damascus. English garden flowers,in all their freshness. And finally, woods and balms, rich and dreamy, exotic, milky and comforting. The result? A fragrance that belongs to no olfactory family.
[Let it be said in passing that there is also a Home Fragrance spray in the above mentioned scent for those who prefer the spraying action as well as a hanging on the door knob "perfumed palette".]

 The 34 Boulevard Saint Germain scent is also now offered in a solid perfume form in the by now familiar black canister that all Diptyque solids are offered for using on the skin.

 Additionally, Do Son, a tuberose floral of untypical ethereal character inspired by a resort in Vietnam, is given a new interpretation in Eau de Parfum concentration (and in the new oval shaped bottle design), boosting its longevity and radiance, unfolding tuberose's mystery on a bed of berries and flowers.

 [news via Diptyque with comments by me]

The winner of the draw...

...for the package of assorted samples is none other than Michael (posting at 11:36). Please email me, using the Contact, with your shipping data so I can have this in the mail for you soon.

Thanks everyone for your enthusiastic participation and the kind words for the work on this site, rest assured I have taken notice of your requests for upcoming articles and please stay tuned for the next giveaway soon!

Perfume Quotes: "You have to feel like it's your own skin sweating perfume"

"There (should be) space between you and your perfume. It shouldn't be obnoxious and it should blend in a way that it almost gives you the feeling that it's your own skin that smells that way. I think that the intimacy between your perfume and your skin is very important. I envision my perfume of being, in a way, a no make-up make-up concept. You have to feel like it's your own skin sweating perfume. I love that idea." [It personally reminds me of concubines being fed raw musk to emit a pleasant scent when caressed in the distant past and of the swallowable perfume pill launched recently]

 Thus describes perfumer Francis Kurkdjian the two-plonged affair between perfume and wearer, a propos his newest perfume duo under Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Amyris for Women and Amyris for Men, disputing another famous perfume quote in the process too: "(Coco) Chanel used to say that you could put perfume wherever you want to be kissed. It doesn't work; I have tried. It gives a nasty taste when you eat perfume and it's the most horrible thing ever. No one wants to be kissed that way. I love to quote her sometimes but not that. Instead, put it next to where you want to be kissed."

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Perfume Quotes 

[quote source] [pic source]

Robert Piguet Petit Fracas: new fragrance (1st Fracas flanker) & The Pacific Collection trio

The year was 1947. Perfume maverick Germaine Cellier created Fracas, the landmark tuberose perfume against which all others are measured up to till this day. In 1999, Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, current owner of the Piguet fragrances liecence, enlisted perfumer Aurelien Guichard to re-introduce Fracas on the modern market after a fallow period, with a slight reformulation, working on the original formula.

The legendary white floral is now accompanied by its first flanker for the first time, Petit Fracas, a lighter, more youthful interpretation of the 1999 reformulation with cocoa. Aurelien Guichard is the nose again.
Notes for Robert Piguet Petit Fracas: Bergamot, mandarin, pear,jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, musk, sandalwood and cocoa.  Petit Fracas will be available in September 2012, 100ml/$150.

The same perfumer also developed a trio of scents called The Pacific Collection according to The Perfume Magazine, named Blossom, Chai and Jeunesse. Please consult the link for more info as well as the official Piguet website (linked through the banner above).

[info via Robert Piguet press, release rephrased by me, first to report was The Perfume Magazine]

 Tuberose plus chocolate? Stuff of dreams or nightmares. We'll see...

Chanel Les Exclusifs Fresh Body Cream: new scented product for layering

"Subtly scented to flatter any fragrance in the LES EXCLUSIFS Collection, this exquisitely soft, light cream envelops the skin with pure luxury. The sumptuous cream is perfect for layering, for the ultimate LES EXCLUSIFS experience. Presented in a beautiful coffret."

This is the official presentation by Chanel of their latest fragrant offering: a Fresh Body Cream to layer with any of the Les Exclusifs fragrances in the Chanel perfumes line. [Available right now on their US site; It's interesting to note the French appellation bypasses the pitfall of calling it Crème fraîche, i.e. culinary "fresh cream". Or perhaps the need for "freshness" in body cosmetics is only necessary for Anglo-Saxon speaking audiences? At any rate, an interesting tidbit observed here, don't you agree?]

The description makes me feel it's a neutral enough body cream ~and thus not particularly scented enough~ to go well with just any of the diverse fragrances in the Chanel boutique line. At 130$ a pop for 150 gr., it's a posh option for layering some moisture and lipids on the epidermis to extend your perfume making it last longer.

Specialized body creams to anchor scent in posh brand exclusive-boutique fragrance lines might become a trend: See last season's Guerlain Delice de Peau reviewed here. 

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: the newest fragrance by Chanel, Coco Noir and Chanel news & reviews

Bex London "Londoner W1X": fragrance review

Londonder W1x is part of a new line in niche fragrances, Bex London, (and by now you know how I feel about hundreds of new lines coming onto the market, yes?), but let me assuage you: its prettiness is convincing "beyond the retro" and it lacks enough dullness for a contemporary release to warrant a separate review on its own merits. Which is to say, if you want a compliment-getter, read on, because I was inundated with those by all ages and all strata when I wore it myself.

via vintagefashionlondon.co.uk

Bex London, under the steady hand of Rebecca Goswell, its founder, apparently took a page off Bond No.9 and their ~exhausted by now~ concept of segmenting New York City into regions with their own scentscape and transposed it to a new, fresh place with more possibilities, the historic city of London that is; this time more exciting and on-the-pulse thanks to the 2012 Olympics. W1X is indeed inspired by West End and its bohemian atmosphere "where things happen" and is the most "feminine" of the lot smell-wise (the line comprises four unisex-aimed fragrances so far), composed by perfumer Francois Robert.

Though presented as a "neo-vintage" in the official press, this is strictly accurate only if you consider as "modern" the fruity florals and fruit-patchoulis miasma of the mall. W1X is quite forward-thinking in fact, with a very appealing contemporary and distinctly musky floral character that is trailing in the wind when on a generous wearer. If I were to assign it an ideal wearer I'd say it suits younger ladies who want something distinctive, with enough indefinable floralcy in it, which wouldn't clobber them down nevertheless. The sort of wearer that would put a cameo on a pashmina scarf worn over her jeans.
The mere fact that the main alliance of ingredients relies on the slightly metallic, sharpish iris-violet accord with a little bit of rose is indicative that we're dealing with something beyond the same old, same old syrupy sweet that we smell coming & going at any social gathering of 20-something year olds.

Antonio Marras, from the SS 2012 collection

 In W1X the powdery fragrance vibe of iris and violet that we have come to expect from "retro" scents ~reminiscent of pancake powder and lipstick~ is refreshed with a smidgen of white flowers (plus the fresh, eletric pepperiness of freesia as well as the clean, green nuance of lily of the valley which help provide the necessary "air" between the notes, giving the lighter, contemporary feel of the fragrance). Small surprises delight the senses when the fragrance is sprayed in the air: it gains a spicy, cinnamic pepperiness with touches of "round" peachy rosiness underneath (a lactonic warmth), hinting at the traditional ladylike femininity of pink satin scalloped undergarments peeking through a modern chemise like in an Antonio Marras fashion show. However don't let that convince you this is a dramatically evolving melody that will have you thinking about it all day long like vintage perfumes; the tune catches the ear from the start and continues unfazed.

But it is perhaps the fact that the sweetish musk peers through, with the support of indefinable woods and a wink of oakmoss to anchor everything down in an autumnal haze that seals the deal, giving new sense to neo-retro, actually having me perplexed as to which season to ascribe the fragrance to: it's pan-seasonal.

I can't say W1X reinvents the wheel, but I can't deny I'm smiling smelling it; it's the Narciso For Her effect.

Bex London has just launched this past June and their site is still under construction (a very European trait!), so I couldn't really find more information on availability and distribution. What I know is that the fragrance is available as eau de toilette in 100ml bottles going for 81GBP at Les Senteurs and Zuneta in the UK for now. 

In the interests of full disclosure, I sampled this thanks to a PR promo.

A Lady's Guide to Wearing Peoneve by Penhaligon's (or Any Perfume Really!)

A fun, quintessentially British little film, brought to you via the kind people at Penhaligon's a propos their newest fragrance launch for women, Peoneve.

 

Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly: fragrance review

Mon Patchouly, part of the impressive new Ramón Monegal perfume collection from the former owner & perfumer of Spanish Myrurgia (since swallowed by Puig), straddles the line between woody oriental fragrance and oriental "gourmand", intended for people of either sex persuasion who love soft, rich, deep scents that invite you closer with a delicious Jon Hamm hum rather than proclaim their aggressive intentions with mock bravado. It's patchouli reinvented; traditional, yet new; an overdone fragrance note of the 2000s which here gains a precious, quietly exciting patina.

via http://nowandthan.tumblr.com/post/19390848880

The association with the suave Midwestern actor is reinforced by the subtly retro "masculine cologne" hint ~with its herbal indefinable rosy touch under the musk and woods~ that Mon Patchouly exhibits, further enhanced by the rum & whiskey tonality it gains as it unfolds its dry cocoa powder opening on the skin. It's enough to induce daydreaming of more elegant times, when men were virile and women were femmes. Aside from the phenomenal lasting power of the fragrance on my wrists ~withstanding an entire extended weekend that involved 2 showers, one prolonged sea dip (!) and several hand washings, obviously~ Mon Patchouly is also distinguished by its variability according to the skin it performs on.

On my own feminine skin, this RM perfume sweetens, mollifying the intense gourmand dryness of French roast coffee dregs & cocoa of Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens. Fans of Montale Boisée Vanille and L'Artisan Havana Vanille/Absolument Vanille might find a similar boozy, darkish, real vanilla pods note hiding; rich and resonant, full of complexity and sub-plots, sometimes the latter even slightly repelling but always compelling. On my significant other's male skin Mon Patchouly dried down more resinous ambery, though not quite the thick, beer-belly-amber we know from elsewhere; I detect a hint of raisin and smoke too which provide contrast, probably revealed by skin Ph magic. The fragrance has the right balance and artistry not to fall into the over-familiarized (Just think, how many sweet amber patchoulis can you name at gun point? This isn't one of them).

The mossier, greener, woodier elements come forth from the back like dark secrets of a life behind closed doors, trysts during lunch break and hushed phone-calls, while still retaining the cigar box elegance and connoisseur complexity. I'm absolutely sure that come autumn and winter, Mon Patchouly will be delegated on the very front of my perfume closet (alongside the more panseasonal marvel Mon Cuir of the RM line which I sport as I write and on which I will write a separate review), its snuggly warmth a comfort for hectic days when its escapist fantasy will consume my commute and daily chores. I just can't fathom how bind-blowing Ramon Monegal's Mon Patchouly will be on a mohair scarf shared between lovers...you'll have to wait for me to divulge in due time!

Bottom line: scrumptious! I'd love to get one of those beautiful inkwell bottles for myself.

Notes for Ramon Monegal Mon Patchouly: Patchouli, olibanum, oakmoss, geranium, jasmine, amber

Available at Luckyscent in eau de parfum concentration.

In the interests of full disclosure, I was sent a sample from the manufacturer.

Dolce & Gabbana pour Femme & pour Homme: fragrance videos

A social media promoted campaign with a new video presentation of the best-selling and (by now classic) fragrances in the Italian brand's portfolio is launched to capture the attention of a new demographic. Naturally, this is will be spread via print later on as well. The aesthetic ~which incidentally captures my own vacation holiday spirit perfectly!~ compliments the autumn-winter 2012 collection campaign look (starring former D&G fragrance face Monica Bellucci, seen here) which capitalizes on Italian (and specifically Sicilian) heritage.

 

 This new black-and-white video stars French model, actress and the Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme current ambassador Laetitia Casta as she recalls time spent with a lover and debates whether or not to leave everything behind for him. Her love interest is played by American model and actor Noah Mills while the song is “Città Vuota” by Mina. The commercial was shot on location in Sicily, Italy, at the baroque village of Erice and the beach of La Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro by Mario Testino.

According to reportage at Luxury Daily: “Dolce & Gabbana is trying to make the fragrance sexy, provocative and exotic – emphasis on the sexy – to a younger demographic that relies on social media for information about new products, and aspires to the carefree, glamorous and uninhibited life of the characters featured in the video,” said John Casey, founder of Freshfluff, New York [non affiliated with the brand].

And just for the heck of it, for memory's sake, I'm reminding you of the IMHO magnificent Giuseppe Tornatore directed classic commercials (reminiscent of his work at Malena) for the now ~bafflingly~ discontinued aldehydic floral Sicily fragrance by Dolce & Gabbana and the steadier selling duo of Pour Femme and Pour Homme, starring the voluptuous Monica Bellucci circa 1994 (and the chiseled Chistian Monzon for Sicily).

The Smooth, Creamy Scent of SunTan Lotion: From Oils to Perfumes

The languor of sun drenched holidays by the beach, the sea lapping at your feet, tan legs seemingly going for miles against realism (that is the effect of a bit of golden glow for you!), an intriguing book, dog-eared and lying loose on your bare belly button... all these things naturally induce scented thoughts associated with this kind of lazy pastime. The creamy, tropically floral or more edible nuance of suntan lotions and tanning oils reinforces the experience as only sensory experiences that do not engage our rational mind can. Is it any wonder that my sun-dazed mind is buzzing around them like a greedy insect hovering over the golden pollen of a ripe flower? I don't necessarily claim laurels of originality, we all -people with an interest in smells I mean- think of this subject on those occasions, I guess. And is it any wonder that fragrance de croisière remains a popular market trend? There are surely many of us out there, more than initially thought of.

by George Marks, via Getty Images

Much as the reference seems universal, not all suntan lotions and potions are created equal nevertheless. The divide can be cultural: The all American scent of Coppertone is heavy in coconut lactones (such as gamma-Nonalactone), milky-smelling, rich, sometimes overwhelming even, to this Med-born nose. The European equivalent of Ambre Solaire is rich in salicylates, ylang-ylang naturally occurring floral components that translate as tropically floral, sweet, inviting, rather gardenia-leaning. Bain de Soleil is another old brand in the same vein. A suntan product can be ~predictably enough~ exotically laced, as Les Polysianes by Klorane or the Hei-Poa sun oil line attest: Tahitian tiare (the local gardenia steeped in sandalwood & mainly; coconut oil) is at the heart of their creamy, South Isles evocative bouquet, sometimes containing wine lactone or massoia lactone, which have a lighter, creamy coconut odor. Hawaian Tropic is poised somewhere in between: tiare and thicker coconut flesh in some sort of equal balance.

A cursory Google search before embarking on my own holidays while preparing this post a while ago revealed vintage brands I hadn't even heard of before; with funny-sounding names, such as Skol, Gaby, Tartan, Diana or QT, or with outright functional ones such as the 1970s billboard material Sea & Ski products.

yup, that's Renee Russo in 1976 via pzrservices blog, click to enlarge

The transition from tanning product for the body to actual fine perfume can be subtle or bolder, according to who makes it. The perfumers at old-guard Guerlain, for instance, were inspired by the isles "sous le vent" (which also inspired the classical Sous le Vent by Guerlain perfume) as well as their popular cosmetic tan line, the famous Terracotta, for the Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent fragrance mist and its accompanying Huile de Voyager dry oil; these products can compliment your sunscreen to give an illusion of old style tanning preparations now that the sun is frowned upon and we all slather ourselves with SPF 50+. Lys Soleia in the Aqua Alegoria line is Guerlain's newest interpretation of the sun tan lotion European floralcy in all its lily-laced spiciness, while the older Terracotta Voile d'Ete is carnation-spicy and fiery like the sunniest days spent under the Antibes blue skies.

A most refined version is met by parfums Hermes, a vanguard of the "not trying too hard" school of thought; Vanille Galante in the boutique-only Hermessences line is redolent of the vanillic-spicy facets of lily, while Santal Massoia in the same posh line utilizes the lactonic facets of fig leaf and classic sandalwood to render the ambience of beach holidays with a winking helping of suntan lotion in the distance. An unapologetic, no-holds-barred approach in all its coconut & vanilla calorific indulgence on the other hand is Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Vanille Coco: Coppertone till you beg to be released.

Cosmetic line Nuxe had no choice but to follow their super-popular (with celebrities and mere mortals alike) golden-flecked Huile Prodigieuse beautifying oil with a similarly fragranced, dedicated perfume product (L'Eau Prodigieuse); the recreation of holidays at the flick of a sprayer! Nars Monoï Body Glow II also has this suntan lotion scent in its core, a mixture of coconut and Tahitian gardenia that is decidedly tropical.
Bobbi Brown created her Beach fragrance to give a compatible scent to what she felt would go well with her tawny, bronzed makeup collections; the fragrance became a long-lasting cult deservingly, recreating the familiar Coppertone association under a gloomier, more East Coast sky.

photo borrowed from blogdorfgoodman blog

Estee Lauder is no stranger to either makeup or perfume, but it was under the tenure of Tom Ford that the infamous "Bronze Goddess" line was first conceived (Originally under the name Azuree Soleil; there are since MANY updates, so please consult our article on the Azuree Soleil vs.Bronze Goddess scent comparison for detailed info. The latest version for 2012 is Bronze Goddess Soleil).
Dior is a similar example: Though Dior's Dune perfume didn't begin its long career as a suntan evocative scent, but rather a demure, monastic yard by the seafront reminiscent perfume for the 1990s with the bracken hint of broom, it soon expanded its main accord into Dior Sweet Sun (an alcohol-free version of a sun-dried, warm biscuit scent that is close to tanning products in the line with a peachy-apricoty nuance) and of course the alcohol-free flanker Dune Sun, to capitalize on the success of the summery evocative name. They have since launched Escale aux Marquises as another "warm sun and tiare" fragrance, now that the above mentioned lighter concentrations have been discontinued, albeit with different aesthetic results.

via pzrservices blog

Some tanning products have an amber-like sweetness to them, like toasted biscuits, with a slight gingerbread warmth. Lancaster's (another cosmetics line, this time famous for its tanning preparations since the 1960s) ambery Aquasun fragrance is a good substitute of beach holidays in a bottle; the drydown reminds me of the intensity of sunscreen on my skin after I have sat under the intense sun of Sardinia for a while and before leaping into the sea, in a frog-like leap, exhausted by the heat. Obsession for Women by Calvin Klein also reminds me a bit of sun-warmed skin, possibly the evocation of a sun-watched tryst.

Celebrities haven't been immune to the trend: I'm only citing Jennifer Lopez and her Miami Glow with its cute havaianas flip-flops on the neck and its tropical suntan feel of a scent because celebrity perfumes isn't a field I consider myself proficient in, for better or for worse. This one is good enough to wear without any guilt nevertheless.

If you prefer oils, Monyette Paris is a cult reference, girlish and floral with coconut overtones, while their more recent Coquette Tropique is somewhat airier, though it is rather too sweet for my personal taste. Sage Onyx by the same jewelry line designer who makes the trinkets is darker, ambery, with the coconut hidden under the suntan and famously made popular by Kate Beckinsale who pronounced it her husband-luring charm. And if you appreciate a sense of humor, the fragrance library over at Demeter (brain child of perfumer Christopher Brosius) stocks Suntan Lotion fragrance spray; what's more overtly obvious than that?

There are probably hundreds of suntan products that smell delicious enough and accompanying perfumes and scented oils recreating that holiday touch; do YOU have a favorite one?

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Beauty and the Beachy; beachy fragrances for every style & taste, The Scent of Nivea cream: nostalgic blue-tin reminiscences 

Summer European-Exclusives Giveaway!

I'm soaking up what sunshine I can gather and what laissez-faire I can fathom so that I'm fortified for the adventures of the looming rentrée.The lapping of the waves on the shore, the faint hint of watermelon with salty nuances smelled in the background, the driftwood on the beach, the changing moods of the summery clouds passing over the mountains afar, shading and lighting the distance into an undulating bosom... The fried calamari over the squid with spinach and the joy of artisan-made gelato in flavors such as "bacio" (i.e. kiss). Leaping unto the risen sun high in the sky seizing what's there of the day, backpedaling into the night listening to the crickets monotonous song...That's life, my friend.

But I have not forgotten about readers wanting their little piece of excitement. Therefore a giveaway, a fun one hopefully, as it involves surprise European-only perfume samples from my drawers (which are set to overflowing, ssssst).

Enter a comment saying what you'd like to read more of on these pages -come the time to be back and jolly- and I will pick a random winner. Draw is open till Sunday 26th midnight. Draw is now closed, thanks for participating!
Prize will be sent in a few days after the winner is announced early next week.

Le Labo Re-introduces their Bath Line

According to the news sent to me:
"After being notoriously sold out of our perfumed body line for a few months, we decided (for some obscure reason) to change our look and go brown with our bottles. Our revamped packaging will hold our already existing body lotion and massage and bath oil, along with our long-awaited perfumed shower gel. Now you can get fresh and fragrant at the same time, with any of the twelve scents available in our collection."

 The E-store can be found on this link.

New Celebrity Perfume: Amy Childs

"I'd love every celebrity to wear my perfume, because I know that they'd absolutely love it. Victoria Beckham definitely needs to wear my perfume. I'm going to definitely send her a bottle. Kate Middleton as well, I think she'd like it. She's glam." The fragrance is called Amy Childs (fashioned after The Only Way is Essex 22-year old starlet who also starred in Celebrity Big Brother). Amy said she had been urged to launch her own fragrance. "It was loads of people saying, 'Amy bring out your own perfume'. I love smelling good and everyone was saying bring out your own perfume so I did," she said. Amy launched her new venture at the Aura nightclub, in London's Mayfair. [news source]

Toronto Fragrance meetup #7 - Sunday August 19th 5pm at GUERLAIN - Come Join the Fumeheads!

The meeting up of fellow fumeheads (an affectionate term for perfume lovers) is always cause for celebration. The greeting process alone makes for a sudden burst of cognition and the process accounts for delightful material to recount later on. On this note, a Toronto, Canada meet-up of fumeheads is organized by Daniel Joffe for this coming Sunday, so if you're close by, don't miss a chance to get there for a meet & greet. Date: SUNDAY August 19th, 2012
Location: Guerlain Boutique, 110 Bloor Street West, (416) 929 6114. Valerie is the friendly store manager.
Time: 5-7pm, and feel free to come and go as you please.
To Bring: Yourself and significant others or friends/family that have an interest in fragrance and skin care, any industry books or magazines, etc.
Original Thread for more details can be found here:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/308254-7-Toronto-Fragrance-meetup-Sunday-August-19th-5pm-at-GUERLAIN-Come-Join-Us!

Another Serge Lutens Perfume Joins the Exclusive Line & Other News on Lutens Paris Exclusives Available in the US

It was predetermined fate...

We had talked about several Lutens fragrances joining the Paris exclusive line almost two years ago. Slowly but surely they all made their way over there from their oblong exports to the beautiful bell jars. The last one to do so is Chypre Rouge, officially confirmed as the latest to join the Paris exclusive bell jars.

On the other hand, news is going around the perfume community that the Paris exclusive line of Serge Lutens fragrances is maybe coming closer to the USA customers than ever before: Non necessitating a Paris trip but rather a phone call to Barney's at New York (dedicated tel.line: 212.833.2425) which would be stocking the till now unattainable. Good news for discerning US customers, an open question regarding the changing business practice of the house. Remains to be seen if and how this will change the perfume scenery.

$280-300 for 75ml of perfume, exclusively at Barneys New York, 660 Madison Avenue [source]

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: the latest Lutens perfume Santal Majuscule review, Serge Lutens fragrance reviews & news 

Lady Gaga shoots her Perfume Ad Commercial for Fame with Ridley Scott, NOT!

To promote her "Fame" fragrance, on which I have reported in detail on this link and on that one as well, Lady Gaga reportedly tapped Alien and Prometheus director Ridley Scott for a shadowy, futuristic clip (as per The Rolling Stone). Scott is no stranger to advertising for perfume: Let me remind you in passing he was the mastermind behind those indelible commercials for Chanel No.5 titled "Share the fantasy"...
However the credits I see on a video on Youtube which looks official (uploaded by Haus Laboratories, the company that produces Fame by Lady Gaga) credit Steven Klein as director with ~beauty purists will be thrilled~ makeup by Stephan Marais while the production company is listed as Blackdog (and not Ridley's familiar Scott Free). Ahem...

The full film, directed by Steven Klein, is expected to debut later this month, via LittleMonsters.com


Dressed in a black jumpsuit, Lady Gaga twists herself before tiny men swarm her naked body. The perfume has been touted as "The First Ever Black Eau de Parfum" and is "built on three main accords: dark, sensual and light" out for launch in September 2012.

 What do you think?

Thierry Mugler Les Parfums de Cuir (The Leather Collection): new fragrance editions

In celebration of the 20th anniversary of French fashion and fragrance house Thierry Mugler, The Clarins Fragrance Group has added a new twist to the brand's classic fragrances with the release of The Fragrances of Leather collection.

The new line-up includes vamped up, leather-ied in fragrance terms (if you're not sure what these are, look it up in our Leather Fragrances directory) special editions in the following best-selling fragrances: Angel (a gourmand with added notes of iris and apricot), A*men (uniting patchouli with leather), Alien (with added amber and dried fruits) and Womanity (highlighting the existing labdanum into a protagonist in the new formula). Leather is a fragrance note that is making a come-back (about time!) as witnessed by the launch of Bottega Veneta eau de parfum (and probably Louis Vuitton  perfume next), catapulted by the niche sector into the mainstream.

 The launch of the new Mugler fragrance editions is set out for October 2012 with a new design for the feminine bottles and the familiar black one for the masculine A*men in ambery juice shades.


[news source]

"Fragrance reviews are silly. Fragrance marketing is even sillier."

Thus pronounces styleite.com and proposes to do some crowdsourcing on how things smell to offer an alternative viewpoint on some of our favorite fragrances.

Intriguing one to appear? Coromandel by Chanel Les exclusifs (and check on my comparison link with some other similar scents).
 Do drop by the styleite site to read and witness your jaw drop on the floor in disbelief (Descriptions range from the incomprehensible “[smells] Like teenage girl mall perfume. Or country club bathrooms” to the equally weird “It’s interesting. It’s almost a little candy-like. But also has some soapiness too. Kinda fruity.”)

Goes to show you: People (layman folks for our purposes, not die hard parfumistas) interpret objective effects in completely subjective ways. It all depends on context and association, I guess.
What do you think?

Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme and Vetiver Fatal: new fragrances

Atelier Cologne is proposing two new fragrances for their fans, jumping on the oud bandwagon in the process as well.

Rose Anonyme~ “She turned the dial until the safe opened, revealing the diamond. She had stolen jewels before, but none compared with this one. She left a single rose and the scent of her perfume in its place for him to find. In a moment she’d be halfway around the world and he would be in pursuit. The chase began again…” With notes of bergamot, ginger, rose, incense, velvet oud accord, patchouli, papyrus and benzoin.
Vétiver Fatal~ “He was alerted immediately and called on the case, another diamond stolen mysteriously. The moment he opened the dossier, a smile sparked in his deep eyes as he recognized her signature mark. He took one of his passports, burned the file and began the pursuit. This time she wouldn’t get away…” With notes of bergamot, lemon, bigarade, orange blossom, violet leaves, black plum, vetiver, cedar and dark oud accord.
Rose Anonyme is a spicy fresh gourmand-oriental rose.
Vetiver Fatale is a full-bodied and plush, woody aromatic vetiver fragrance.

Both fragrances are aimed at both men and women, developed by perfumer Jerome Epinette, available in 200ml and 30ml bottles at Luckyscent and Beautyhabit.

Ramon Monegal Barcelona: Perfumes to Lose One Heart's Into

It is not usual that I direct readers to other venues where my writing has appeared; Perfume Shrine readers come to the Shrine for what the Shrine offers here on its own terms. Yet I can't resist sharing with you the presentation I wrote for Fragrantica on this newly launching to the USA perfume house hailing from Barcelona, Spain.

I said newly launching because Ramon Monegal isn't technically a new house: the tradition and the perfumer go back a long while, to the historic Spanish of Myrurgia actually.
Please find the the Ramon Monegal perfumes first impressions  on this link and rest assured I will post more detailed reviews very very soon...

I haven't been this excited about discovering a new niche fragrance line since stumbling upon Maria Candida Gentile perfumes!

Guerlain: Who Am I?

A teaser film by Guerlain perfumes on the new September 2012 launch.

"Devinez qui je suis" or in English, guess who I am.

Watch the clip on this link.

Of course we're safe to assume it involves an iteration of La Petite Robe Noire.

Lancome La Vie Est Belle: fragrance review

The upcoming Lancome fragrance, La Vie Est Belle (i.e. Life is Beautiful), is exactly the kind of perfume we dedicated perfumephiles love to kvetch about without any grave reason, come to think of it: It won't knock your Spanx off, sure; it's a "pretty" smell for pretty ladies (as evidenced by the face fronted it, the original Pretty Woman) but it's not a genuinely bad release all the same, just derivative. It suffers from the major problem of mainstream perfumery: a sense of sameness, a sort of deja vu, when what we yearn for is earth-shattering uniqueness, Heathcliff boldness and passion, springboards for heated discussion with a slice of brie in one hand and a good goblet of Laphroaig on the other while Mahler's 3rd blasts out of the speakers.
If you're that sort of person you won't be wowed by La Vie Est Belle. If on the other hand you just seek a wearable, non completely teeny-bopper fruity scent to get you through the day (and night) then the newest Lancome release isn't the worst to come out on counters for a while; nor is it the best, worse luck...

To cut a long story short: La Vie Est Belle an iris "gourmand" with patchouli. Just how many irises, gourmands and patchoulis are there on the market currently? Do I hear you say hundreds? I thought so! And yet, this fragrance is pretty well-executed within the genre, if sweet and over-tenacious. It's really a floriental for the 30-50 age group of women who want something contemporary that wouldn't have their teeth fall off at the same time. Lancôme after all has never ditched their more "mature" outlook (Tresor Midnight Rose non withstanding) and the accompanying image the way Dior has, as I was discussing with one of my online friends. In that context, the fragrance succeeds in its intended demographic, all caveat emptors in place.

This gourmand yet rather delicate composition was developed by famous perfumers Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo, all known for their talent and technical skill. The final formula is claimed to be the result achieved after 3 years of testing and 5000 versions including precious ingredients (Iris Pallida concrete, Jasmine sambac absolute, orange blossom absolute, and patchouli essence; we can take this with a grain of salt or not). When you're hearing things like that, you know you have reason to get worried.
Iris is supposedly the key ingredient of the perfume, surrounded by orange blossoms and jasmine in the heart. The iris isn't really perceptible as such to my nose, though, I have to say: that carrot-rooty often metallic note we associate with iris fragrances is very subtle and floats in the background as a murmur rather than a clear command. The composition’s opening provides fruity flavors of black currant and pear, those can be felt, while the base is warm, gourmand and powdery due to almond-like accords of tonka bean (high in coumarin), praline (shades of Angel, especially coupled with the next two ingredients), patchouli and vanilla.

The recognizable reference in La Vie Est Belle comprise a hint of Delices de Cartier (instead of cherry, the fruity nuance is orange-toned but in a clean, fresh and pleasant way) and Flowerbomb's fruity-patchouli sweetness rising from the core. It's somehow airier, like a gourmand done in devore velvet rather than heavy damask. It also vaguely reminds me of Hanae Mori #4. Of course all these facts point to the theory that if you own any of the above, there's not much point in owing La Vie est Belle as well. That's for you and your Visa to decide.

The lasting power and projection of La Vie Est Belle, available as eau de Parfum, are both very very good, a technically able fragrance, and though I wouldn't be too displeased to be in the company of the woman wearing it, I wouldn't buy a full bottle for myself all the same.

La Vie Est Belle is the newest Lancome fragrance, available on the market from autumn 2012 in major department stores. The concept of this fragrance is centered on real beauty in small things, freedom from conventions and the wisdom to go after one's heart.
The (beautiful) flacon is a redesigned version of a Lancome bottle from 1949 from the brand's archives. Actress Julia Roberts is the face of the campaign, shot by director Tarsem Singh.

NB: I shared a sample with a friend who works in the press and got a preview herself. 

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Exclusive Perfume BG 754 Perfume: new fragrance

Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Alexander McQueen and Christian Louboutin amongst the luxury brands that are celebrating Bergdorf Goodman 111 years anniversary in September.

"The luxury retailer turns 111 years old this year and will celebrate with a series of special events including a documentary film, a book and an anniversary collection of more than 100 exclusive products. The celebration will kick off Sept. 6 during the fourth annual Fashion’s Night Out with designer appearances and the debut at retail of the anniversary collection. Among the brands that are creating special merchandise are Alexander McQueen, which designed a ruched velvet dress; Christian Louboutin, which is doing pyramid-studded platforms; evening looks from Oscar de la Renta and Akris, and even an exclusive perfume called 754 from Maison Francis Kurkdjian."

pic via FK facebook, thanks to Tomassina/mua for finding this info nugget

"[That perfume] reminds me of my great aunt and so cannot be seductive to me"

In the ever fascinating way people translate things into words that mean something else entirely, the popular topic of "old lady perfume" vs "older woman scent" has occupied these pages before with wonderfully thought-provoking comments from the readers. A belated comment however sheds a new light and I wanted to share it with you anew, alongside some thoughts of mine. See if you agree or disagree, feel free to drop a line in the comments with your own analysis, there can never be too many. So....what was it?

via eversoscrumpious.com, photo by Unseencenser

Cheryl Quimbly said: 

"Just stumbled on this topic a bit late. I always cringe at the term “old-lady perfume,” not because I see any problem with an individual’s association of a certain perfume to a given age group (younger or older). What bothers me is that in everyday speech “old lady” is *only* used condescendingly (oh! What a sweet little old lady!), or disparagingly: one would never refer to a colleague as an “old lady” (unless to ridicule her, etc.). As you pointed out, “older woman” is quite a different story--and probably far from people mean when they refer to old-lady perfume. If it is about a perfume that is not the latest trend, as others have pointed out, there’s a spectrum of more precise words to use, depending on the intention : old fashioned (not so interesting); retro (cool); classic ( highly respected); etc. As for an alternative to “old-lady perfume.” Hmmm. “Displeasingly old-fashioned/ Displeasingly out of style”? But I suspect people mean something else like "stuffy" or "too rich and complicated" or something with deep memory ties that is harder to encapsulate: "reminds-me-of-my-great-aunt-and-so-cannot-be-seductive-to-me." 

 To which I replied:

 Well, as you say, it's a term that is either condescending or disparaging, hence the trouble and sensitivity with it. If we used "old fashioned" (which does denote what most benign people mean) then we'd be far more comfortable. I'm sure "stuffy" does go into the equation too, as "fresh" (even when brandished for things which do not smell fresh per se!) is considered a positive term, uniformly in my experience when perfume consulting.

 Basically "fresh" is whatever is not "stuffy" (LOL) and by those terms we're not describing the actual literal meaning of the words but different "styles" and "trends" of perfumes over the decades (what was fresh 30 years ago is stuffy now and what is fresh now will become stuffy 30 years from now and so on...). It makes for one hell of confusion, especially among general folks who don't have the necessary vocabulary to analyse what they smell and what they feel (NB: I consider everyone's smell perception and feeling as 100% valid, I just think that some are more verbal-inclined or trained than others).

 But again as you point out perhaps there is something deeper than just "out of fashion" involved, which is why the term hasn't caught on. Most people buying perfume are still hooked by the whole seduction kit & caboodle and believe that perfume should be something to attract sexual partners (or at least be pleasant to potential sexual partners, even if there is no intention of actually making them partners in the act) so the association with something an auntie or grandmother wore all her life is too strong to break out from. I think you're definitely on to something with that remark you made! It makes total sense and explains the denial with which "positive" perfume (i.e. sex thang) is NOT associated with old people (i.e. for whom the generally held immature point of view is that their having sex at all is eww).

 It all boils down to sex again, doesn't it, which might also explain why the enmity towards women in particular! (classical target)

Frequent Questions: Differences Between the Hermes Merveilles Perfume Editions, Flankers & Limited Editions (With Photos)

Among perfumes with several confusing similarly-named editions there are a few. You can check PerfumeShrine's previous entries on the different flankers/perfume editions of Dior Poisons, the many flankers/limited editions of Dior best-seller J'Adore, the various reformulations/repackaging of Miss Dior Cherie, the super confusing group of fragrance editions by Rodriguez Narciso For Her with their differences highlighted, the Etro Via Verri original and reformulated editions, the Shiseido Zen perfume editions ...and there's surely going to be more!
Today I'm going to offer an illustrated guide to sort out the confusion attested regarding one fragrance among those with a dedicated cult following: Eau de Merveilles and its by now many flankers and limited editions issued by the venerable house of Hermès.

Timeline, Info and Notes for Different Hermès "Merveilles" Fragrance Editions with pics: 

Eau de Merveilles (2004) 
Pefumers: Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer
Eau de Toilette concentration
Notes: ambergris, pink pepper, violet, fir, oakmoss, orange, lemon, cedar, elemi, Madagascar vetiver

The main theme of this truly original fragrance, this "water of wonders", and the reason it's a deserved cult is the orange-shaded ambergris salty impression of skin, resolutely non-floral for a marketed to women fragrance (although perfectly unisex in all practical purposes!) and "natural" smelling in its overall impression, negating the notion that the person wearing it is wearing a perfume.
Technically speaking the intriguing thing is Eau de Merveilles collapses the traditional pyramidal structure entirely, as all the woody-musky notes are on top, rather than the base of the fragrance, getting the ambergris note upfront in large print.

Parfum des Merveilles  (2005)
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Extrait de Parfum concentration
Notes: Oak, patchouli, mosses, amber, Peru balsam, tears of Siam, Davaba, Cognac note, leaves, roots
A concentrated composition with more intense resinous ingredients which Jean Claude Ellena worked on while the original was selling its first bottles.

Parfum des Merveilles (2006)
Limited edition of the Parfum des Merveilles of 2005 extrait de parfum in Saint-Louis blue crystal (same juice)
Extrait de Parfum concentration

Elixir des Merveilles (2006) 
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Eau de Parfum concentration
Notes: Peru balsam, vanilla sugar, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, siam resin, caramel, oak, incense, orange peel and cedar.

Hermes Elixir des Merveilles is a quite different formula rather than just an EDP concentration of the original Eau de Merveilles, focusing on more resinous chypre elements highlighted rather than the ambergris woody notes of the EDT version. It is succulent, warmer and less salty than the original and relatively tenacious. 

Eau de Merveilles Constellation (2006) 
Limited edition of the original formula of Eau de Merveilles of 2004 (same juice)
Eau de Toilette concentration
The bottles features an etched illustration of the classic chariot of the house under a star constellation.

Eau de Merveilles Pegase (2007)
Limited edition of the original formula of Eau de Merveilles of 2004 (same juice)
Eau de Toilette concentration
The bottle features an illustration of the flying horse Pegasus from the Greek mythology.

Eau Claire des Merveilles (autumn 2010) 
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Eau de Parfum concentration

This new interpretation of the "magical water" boasts  airy notes alongside the sophisticated woody notes and warm ambergris of the original. It incorporates powdery soft vanilla, airy notes and for the first time a few abstract floral notes to give a luminous character. The overall impression of Eau Claire des Merveilles is of a musky vanilla scent with softly powdery ambience. 

Eau de Merveilles Au Bal des Etoiles (February 2012) [i.e. Ball of the Stars]
Limited edition of the original formula of Eau de Merveilles of 2004 (same juice)
Eau de Toilette concentration
The bottle features a "dragonfly fairy" design by illustrator Alice Charbin.

L'Ambre des Merveilles (summer 2012)

Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena

Eau de Parfum concentration

Notes: amber, labdanum, patchouli and vanilla.

The emphasis on L'Ambre des Merveilles is on the classical ingredient used to render an "amber" base blend: labdanum with all its leathery-sweet-intimate aspects in place. 

All the bottles in the Hermes Merveilles series routinely come in 50ml/1.7oz and 100ml/3.4oz sizes, with the occasional 15ml/0.5oz travel size issued (same as the Hermessences coffret shape and size) except for the parfum and limited edition bottles, of course.

pics via fragrantica.com and basenotes.net