Saturday, December 31, 2005

Articles/ Discussion index

2007 fragrances round-up: what makes for the popular vote?
2007 and 13 honest & cynical musings
Allergies and Perfume: Your Scent is giving me the hives/allergies/a migraine/asthma
A perfume for Sirens
Art by Women: an Equal Opportunity Manifestation?"
Art Revered for the Sake of Reverence?
Art in perfumery: an essay
Art in perfumery part deux
Average Person vs. Perfumista
Back to the Future (of Fragrance this time)
Beautiful Bottles in time for Christmas 2006
Best of the next: what lies ahead
Chic: perfumewise, that is!
Colour of the juice: delivering more hints than you thought
Continuing the saga: what future of perfumery?
Cult of the Celebrity scent: fragrance history
Dirty Secrets of the Grey Market and Fakes
Eau Flirt: Can a Perfume Make you Appear More Attractive?
Economic Crisis? What Economic Crisis?
End of Ebay sales
Experiement to put an itchy rash on the butt of science
Famous people on the wedding day and their scent: Eva Longoria
Gimmick or Innovation and at what price?
Givaudan iPerfumer application:  Cutting-edge or demystifying?
Glorious Stink: why smelling dirty is not as you imagined
Hope for the average perfume buyer (still)
How far can one's allegiance to a brand go? (vis a vis the Galliano/Dior case)
How many of you have been wearing less than a dollar perfume?
How much can the niche fragrance market bear?
Is Perfume Political? You bet!
"It smelled so good and now I'm not loving it as much!": on Perfume Reformulations
It's the end of the world as we know it
Jacques Polge for Chanel
La Parfumeuse Chauve (the bald perfumista): a play in three acts
Lies and Misdemeanors
Luxury Market amidst the Recession & Other Bedtime Stories
Mitsouko death...
"Noir" in Fragrances: The Power & the Mystique
Old Lady vs. Older Woman: the Perfume Wars
Perfume appreciation and the Quest for objective beauty
Perfume and the Perfumed: When Icon& Fragrance delightfully clash
Perfume in Public Places: etiquette or paranoia?
Perfume preferences & How Body Chemistry can Affect Fragrance
Perfumery Restrictions and Why Everything we Say in Public Matters
"Put all the perfume you want on a smelly beggar, it will spoil the perfume" Seriously?
Powdery and Dry in relation to Perfume
Rich people: what do they smell of?
Quest for the great dry citrus
Rest in Peace Jacques Helleu
Sally sells sea "sel" at the sea shore
Season specific fragrance wardrobe and Rotate your fragrance so you don't stop smelling it: Fact/fiction?
Sex and the parfum
She's only got 2 and a half expressions for Pete's sake!
Should we or shouldn't we say "You Stink!"
Signature fragrance: Its indefinable allure
Soapy Fragrances: More than Just a Matter of Clean
"Stop Dousing with Musky Perfume" (from Facebook)
Take it back
The Guerlain Conundrum
The Origins of the Olfactory Theory of Shape?
The politics of perfumery: Jean-Paul Guerlain makes a faux-pas
Top 13 Worst Perfumes? Come again?
Too Many Launches? Some perfume history
Romancing the Scent: part 1, part 2
Valentine's Preparation: Movie and a Fragrance
War of the worlds: natural vs. synthetics
When someone usurps your signature fragrance
What fragrance would these Oscar winners wear?
What type of perfume collector are you?
Who are we wearing perfume for, really?
Who is questioning the Guide?
Why crusading against perfumery restrictions is an exercise in omphaloscepsis
Why do perfumes smell the same?
Why do French (and Europen) people grow up to love scents,  while Americans don't (social anthropology)
Yes, but is it original?

Fragrance History Articles Index

Click the appropriate links. (Please report broken links)

Coty and the beginnings of modern perfumery:
Coty and his Chypre
Coty Chypre : packaging and advertising

Chypres:
The Origins of the Chypre perfume family: Lost in Antiquity ~everything you wanted to know
Chypre fragrances and their chronology: historical relevance of olfactory vogues related to chypres

Crossing Oceans of Time to Bottle Antiquity: David Pybus and his museum projects

Cult of the Celebrity scent: an historical approach to the phenomenon of celebrity endorsed fragrances

From the history of the house of Chanel:
Beige (vintage)
Cuir de Russie

From the history of the house of Christian Dior:
Miss Dior (1947)
Diorama (1949)
Eau Fraiche (1953)
Diorling (1963)
Diorella (1972)
Dior-Dior (1976)

From the history of the house of Guerlain:
Pour Troubler (1911)
Shalimar (1925)
Djedi
Liu (1929)
Sous Le Vent (1933)
Vol de Nuit
Vega (1936)
Fleur de Feu (1948)
Atuana (1952)
Ode (1955)
Vetiver (1956)
Chant d'Aromes (1962)

Little known facts: fragrance trivia you might not know

Romancing the Ripe: historical evidence on the lure of "dirty/skanky"

Space Odyssey: Ten Monoliths Ten moments in the history of scent that changed everything

The Different Company: history of a niche line

Vetiver in historical fragrances: the iconic references
Vetiver and gender: the history of a miscalculated note

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Perfume Houses Links

The following links are not sponsored/affiliated in any way.

A
Acqua di Parma
Aftelier Perfumes
Agent Provocateur
Agraria
Alberta Ferretti
Alexander McQueen
Amouage
Anna Sui
Annick Goutal
Antica Farmacista
Antonia's Flowers
Aqaba
Aroma M
Artemisia Perfume
Attar Bazaar
Azzaro

B
Balenciaga
Balmain
Barbara Bui
Benetton
Bijan
Blumarine
Bobo
Bogner
Bond no 9
Borsari di Parma
Boucheron
Burberry
Bvlgari

C
CB I Hate Perfume
Cacharel
Calypso
Caron
Carthusia
Castle Forbes
Caswell-Massey
Caudalie
Chanel
Chopard
Christian Dior
Christian Dior Homme
Christian Lacroix
Clarins
Clinique
Comptoir Sud Pacifique
Costume National
Coty
Courrèges
Crabtree & Evelyn
Creative Scentualization
Creed
Czech & Speake
Céline
Côté Bastide

D
Des Filles à la Vanille
Detaille
Diptyque
Divine
Dolce & Gabbana
Donna Karan
Dorissima
Dragonfly Blue

E
E. Coudray
Ebba
Elizabeth W
Escada
Estée Lauder
Etro

F
Fendi
FlorisFragonard
Fresh
Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums

G
Galimard
Gianfranco Ferré
Giorgio Armani
Givenchy
GucciGuerlain

H
Helmut Lang
Hermès
Hierbas de Ibiza
Histoires de Parfums
Hové Parfumeur
Hugo Boss

I
I Profumi di Firenze
Issey Miyake

J
Jacomo
JAR Parfums
Jean Patou
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jil Sander
Jo MaloneJohn Varvatos

K
Keiko Mecheri
Kenzo
Korres
Krizia

L
L'Artisan Parfumeur
L'Erbolario
L'Occitane
L'Oréal
La Perla
Lalique
Lancôme
Lanvin
Laura Biagotti
Laura Tonatto
Le Jardin Retrouvé
Les Bains du Marais
Lise Watier
Lolita Lempicka Parfums
Long Lost Perfumes
Lorenzo Villoresi
Lothantique

M
Marc Jacobs
Martine Micallef
Matthew Williamson
Mauboussin
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
Miller Harris
Miller et Bertaux
Molinard
Montale
Moschino

N
Nanadebary
Narciso Rodriguez
Nina Ricci
Norma Kamali

O
Ormonde Jayne

P
Paco Rabanne
Parfums 06130
Parfums Delrae
Parfums Grès
Parfums de Nicolaï
Pascal Morabito
Patyka
Paul Smith
People of the Labyrinths
Prince Matchabelli

R
Ralph Lauren
Robert Piguet
Roberto Cavalli
Rochas

S
Sage Machado
Sali Oguri
Salvatore Ferragamo
Santa Maria Novella
Serge Lutens
Shiseido
Sisley
Slatkin
Sonia Rykiel
Stella Cadente
Strange Invisible Perfumes
Strenesse
Susanne Lang

T
The Different Company
Thierry Mugler
Tiffany
Tommy Hilfiger
Trish McEvoy
Trussardi

U
Ulrich de Varens
Ungaro

V
VIP Room
Valentino
Van Cleef & Arpels
Vera Wang
Versace
Vivienne Westwood

Y
YOSH
Yardley
Yohji Yamamoto
Yves Rocher
Yves Saint Laurent

About

About Perfume Shrine

http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com

The Perfume Shrine project is an independent online publication offering articles on perfumery including fragrance reviews, essays on the science of fragrance and aroma materials, articles on perfume history, interviews with perfumers and industry professionals, trend-watching and fragrance advertising evaluation. Its aim is to provide a resource for anyone interested in fragrances and to offer an independent assessment of available products. But its most important goal is to share the passion for scents, pose interesting questions and ignite a genuine appreciation for the art of perfumery!

About Elena Vosnaki, the Editor

I grew up in a family of scientists and artists, which instigated an inquisitive spirit in me with a passion for the finer things in life. My academic degrees are in History and Archaeology, as well as Classical Music Studies.
Scent and the sense of smell have been of high interest to me since I was a small child nevertheless. Playing with my mother's and my very elegant grandmother's perfumes as a toddler I soon progressed to reading whatever I could find on fragrances: magazine clippings which I saved in an album; books on perfumes and essences, some from authors of classical antiquity; heavy volumes of chemistry and perfumery later on. The fascination with the history of perfumery prompted me to collect and study a large sum of vintage fragrances, essential oils and synthetic materials for several years. As time and opportunities allowed, I studied a little more formally attending seminars about relevant olfactory issues while pursuing my other academic pursuits, and travelled on places which presented aromatic challenges ~some of those I have recounted here, some are left to be told.

In 2000 a non-profit website was created that contained some of the perfume information I had been collecting for years. In 2006, after writing numerous reviews online on other venues, I created the Perfume Shrine ~my personal glimpse into the cosmos of perfumes: the materials that are woven into the compositions that enrapture me, the perfumers who are responsible for their creation, the process of creation itself and the marketing and presentation of the finished product. Fragrance writing had began as a hobby but beyond this site it progressed to fragrance consulting and articles featured in various publications around the world (Harper's Bazaar and Sniffapalooza Magazine among them). This path has enriched me as a person and I am very grateful for it.

Frequent Questions of Readers

Why is the site named "Perfume Shrine"?
Because this is my tribute to everything I hold sacred in the world of scent.

Who Writes for the Perfume Shrine?
Unless explicitly specified to the contrary, all of the articles on Perfume Shrine are written and developed by me. Perfume Shrine is based in Europe and I write in a foreign language, not my native one, so please excuse the occasional linguistic blunder.

What are your credentials for writing about fragrance?
I am a historian and an archeologist, specialized in the Bronze Age. I learned about perfumery from reading, discovering fragrances (from modern to vintage to niche, building a vast collection), smelling raw materials, attending seminars and seeking encounters with those willing enough to teach me what they knew. It would be Utopian to claim proficiency in such a vast subject, so I consider myself, as with everything, a constant student.

How does one navigate the website?
The Main Page features only the most recent posts in chronological order like a web log. Monthly Archives are grouped in a seperate column of links on the right, but there is also a Sitemap accessed on the top of the main page. The Search feature allows browsing through all the posts on Perfume Shrine (just type your search). For individual reviews of fragrances, please peruse the Reviews section of the menu. There is a brief handy Index on the right hand column as well.

Does Perfume Shrine belong to any beauty/perfume blogging network?
No, it doesn't. If someone has added our link on directories of such blogs we're honoured and appreciative, but are not tied by any "rules" or reciprocal "promotion" obligation. Any joint project here that links other blogs/sites is personally undertaken out of mutual respect.

Do you sell posts or links? What about ads?
The Perfume Shrine site doesn't sell posts, ever, out of principle. Whenever a link is sponsored it is specified as such. We accept a limited choice of ads that are of relevant content to our readers and are explicitly specified as such. Indirect Google Adsense ads are randomly selected based on the Google keyword algorithm and beyond our control. I however link to some other blogs or to relevant sites out of respect and admiration for free.

Do you accept (free) samples for review?
Only if it is something that is unavailable where I live and I can't get it any other way. If so, it is disclosed as such and I always offer the manufacturer to refund the costs of shipping. Accepting a sample doesn't guarantee that I'd end up blogging about it though.

Do you write negative reviews?
If you have been reading this blog you know I do, if I feel that it is deserved. This is an independent venue that reflects the opinions of its author. I would be much more inclined to be harsh with a big company who can afford to lose customers, however. A very small, struggling artisan might meet with my silence if I don't feel I have anything positive to say.

Can we do a link exchange?
If you like this blog, you're more than welcome to put a link to it on your own site. It's a great compliment and I appreciate your gesture. I might do the same if I find your site worthwhile and I find myself a frequent reader. Please do not contact me with requests for a reciprocal link if you're a business: In those cases, please consider a clearly defined ad link option per above.

What about the other links you have on your sidebar?
If they're here, it means I like them and consider them worth your time too.

Can I copy your posts/take your feed to use on my own site?
You can link to me (you're in fact encouraged to do so with a mention & link of the venue), but if you want my actual content and writing featured on your commercial site, you'll need to pay what I charge as a freelance writer. Please mail me using the email provided at the bottom of this post for details.

What is Perfume Shrine's Privacy Policy?
The Perfume Shrine does not release any of the personal information shared on this site or in emails. The subscription lists are moderated by third parties and the identities of the subscribers are not released to the editor.

What is Perfume Shrine's policy on Comments?
We accept any comment, be it positive or critical, as long as it is not covered advertising for a commercial business (in which case it will be deleted; please mail us directly for evaluation of your business if you want to get openly advertised on Perfume Shrine) or insultory to other commentators (in which case it might get deleted or the thread locked to prevent further agravvation among readers).
You are free to leave an anonymous comment if you so choose, although I would prefer if you signed with a pseudonym; it makes for easier dialogue that way, you see!

About Subscription Information
Subscription to the Perfume Shrine is available through various "readers" (Google, Netvibes, Bloglines, Newsgator, My Yahoo etc.), Atom feeds, and/or Feedblitz. You will find the appropriate links/widgets to use on the right hand column, under the Search function. Your email remains private and your name is not divulged to the editor.

About Copyright on the Perfume Shrine site
All original content, personal photos and translations herein copyright © 2005-2009 Elena Vosnaki/PerfumeShrine, All Rights Reserved. The contents of Perfume Shrine are protected by applicable copyright laws, which prohibit any usage of the original material appearing on this site for commercial purposes without explicit written consent from the editor of Perfume Shrine. You are however welcome to provide a link back to the posts on this site as long as you explicitly mention their authorship, recognize the original source of the information you give, and acknowledge the site of origin. Please respect the time and effort that are put into this venue, thank you!

Contact The Editor
Please email the editor at: perfumeshrine at yahoo dot com

SITEMAP

Click the appropriate links, a new window will open. Work in progress! (please report broken links)

Home Page/Main

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Interviews with Perfumers & Industry Insiders
Marian Bendeth
Chandler Burr: Part 1, Part 2, Burr's response to readers' comments
Chandler Burr on his NYT Scent Talks
Jean Jacques
Vero Kern
McCoy Anya
Linda Pinkington of Ormonde Jayne: part 1, part 2
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Articles of the Perfume Shrine editor On
Advertising
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Scent Alikes: Twin Peaks

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Denyse Beaulieu
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