News on Availability of Guerlain and Annick Goutal Fragrances

A while ago it had been openly discussed that some fragrances in the Annick Goutal line were being dropped off the collection, right when there was a major overhaul of the entire brand reflected in repackaging. This isn't unusual in this day and age and indeed the original Goutal line had already seen the demise of a few of the initial scents for better or for worse. However for at least one among the more recent releases which went missing, I'm referring particularly to Mon parfum Cheri par Camille (a tribute of the daughter to the mother) the argumentation presented always seemed rather non sensical to me.

As per one sales assistant "Mon Parfum Cheri was really disliked by the normal Annick Goutal customer" and therefore it wasn't restocked. The logic went that the "normal" AG customer goes for light, floral or subtly gourmand fragrances that are feminine in a romantic, young and ethereal style (so enter Petite Cherie, Eau de Charlotte, Quel Amour and the like) and Mon Parfum Cheri being a retro chypre it had no chance. Looking down on current tastes is a very popular past-time on perfume boards but it can backfire.
On topic: then how does one account for Goutal's Passion, for Tuberose Passion, for Grand Amour and for Heure Exquise, not to mention Ambre Fetiche in the Orientalistes sub-line which are nothing but? They were all remaining in the main line with no wavering (they were prominently displayed on the Goutal website), donning their new dresses of a bottle and label like the rest of them as if it was nobody's business. The limited distribution pattern (another offer of an explanation) also made no sense, since the US launch of the newest fragrances had been made with enough fanfare to justify an interest in the particular market which would be deemed silly to nullify just a few short months later.

behold Perfume Shrine's photographic evidence of what we're claiming!

At the time I had offered the explanation that the house was busy reformulating the fragrances (at their own cost, as is the custom) so that they could meet with the impending IFRA restrictions effective immediately, whenever they were able to. If that was possible from a technical point of view, any missing stock was simply a matter of practicalities requiring for the new bottles to be somewhat delayed.

I'm glad to see that I was mostly correct. The new Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille is proudly displayed at stockists who sell the revamped collection by Goutal and it looks like it won't be any more limited in distribution than it originally was, which is to say widely available (120 euros for 100ml).
The photo included in this post above showcases the new packaging. You can see the old packaging just below.

the old packaging…more suggestive thank to the color of bottle, though

In what concerns Guerlain, I have great news concerning one of their latest fragrances: the much loved Terracotta Le Parfum (fragrance review included on this link), France's answer to the best-selling status of the Bronze Goddess fragrance industry by Lauder, I have the privilege of very exciting news! Although the tropical creamy floral was launched as a limited edition for summer 2014 (and therefore hard to come by now that perfumistas have been stampeding to get their little paws on a bottle), the scent has sold enough that Guerlain headquarters are considering it of a potential permanent addition to the collection. If you are therefore interested in making this come true indeed, do seek it out, contacting your favorite Guerlain sales assistant, emailing the Guerlain PR service and contacting the Paris flagshipm so that the Terracota Le Parfum scent becomes available next summer and all the subsequent summers as well…

You can thank me later and you're very welcome.

Perfumes of the Rich & Famous: the Duke & Duchess of Cambridge and the Beckhams -what do they really wear?

"More than a third of Britons believe they know whether a date is "the one" within seconds of meeting them after catching a whiff of their fragrance", as quoted in an article in the Daily Mail.

via tumblr

Beyond the obvious (catching a whiff of a childhood scent like your mother's can be relaxing or that smelling something unpleasant might get you off your food for a while) the article goes into mentioning a few mega famous people's choices. If you have been following the Perfume Shrine you know that the Kate, the Duchess of Cambridge is a no brainer, and you even had info on the scent of Kate Middleton's wedding day promptly reported, but the rest is interesting.

"With input from expert master perfumer, Penny Williams, they found two high-profile celebrity relationships had strong scent compatibility ratings.

Indeed, both the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and David and Victoria Beckham had scent compatibility ratings of nine out of ten.

With Prince William wearing Ralph Lauren Polo and Kate wearing Dior Dune, Penny Williams said their choices 'complement without clashing'."

Something tells me they have both moved on (Kate was reported to wear Dune as a student), scent-wise, but let's not spoil it for the Daily Mail. They carry on:

"Meanwhile, David Beckham wears his own cologne Instinct and Victoria opts for Anna Sui's Sui Dreams, Chanel No.5 and her own Intimately Beckham.

Mrs Williams, who has worked in the industry for 24 years, added: 'Her collection of scents range from everyday to spritz [sic: did she mean "glitz"?]. This suggests a multi-tasking lifestyle and fragrance used for benefits beyond the scents themselves. If he wears Instinct and she wears Sui Dreams, it's very harmonious.'"

I bet Victoria has hundreds of bottles back home, if only as gifts from all the designers she is in contact with. 

But the crucial point is: do you match your fragrance with your partner's? Please share in the comments. I find it a great idea myself, more on which on a subsequent article. 

Immersive Journey into the Outer Reaches of Scent: Fragrance Lab at Selfridges

On the ground floor of Selfridges, participants enter a futuristic laboratory-like space peopled by scientific-looking assistants in white lab coats. Guests are given an iPad and asked to take a personality test that consists of multiple-choice questions and pictures.

via psfk.com

After filling that out, visitors don a pair of white headphones and make their way through an audio-guided tour of spaces filled with various objects and scents. They might, for example, open a mystery drawer, selecting an object that speaks to them in some way and identifying the smells that rouse them most.

These choices help determine their personal fragrance, concocted by perfumer Givaudan and presented to them at the end of the tour in a private, silver-colored room. Along with the bottle, they get an "about you" description

Read the whole article following this link and learn more on this link.

Most rare Guerlain Perfume to be Resurrected for the Prestige Collection

No house in the realm of fine fragrance is more revered with the appreciation of history than the house of Guerlain, the one "sans prenom" (since there's also Marcel Guerlain, a different outfit). The re-issue of the heritage perfumes, collected as "collection patrimoine" at the flagship store in Paris at Champs Elysees was a move into museum worthy greatness. We have described & reviewed the re-issued historical Guerlain perfumes on these pages before thanks to the help of the house's artistic director, Sylvaine Delacourte, and it is my great joy to inform you that the prestige collection which includes Vega and Sous le Vent will be itself augmented by the erstwhile addition of another long discontinued gem…

Which is it? Can you hold still?

from the nonblonde via pinterest

This time the perfume in question also happens to be encased in a precious, collectible vessel as well. Coque d'Or from 1937 (in the blue bottle in the shape of a bow, like Dawamesk, but with gold overlay which always reminded me personally of scarab jewels from Egypt, designed by George Chevalier and raymond Guerlain) is a legend. Composed by Jacques Guerlain of the mature period, it encompasses what is quintessential Guerlain in spirit: the warm amber chord with labdanum and vanilla plus the inky note of oakmoss, overlaid with powdery floral notes that are precious to the makers.
 The re-enacted formula undertaken with the care of head perfumer Thierry Wasser is a bet that challenges the contemporary style of the industry (though it will have to conform to contemporary regulations I hear). Its discovery will take place next autumn, before the holidays. Coque d'or will be a wonderful pilgrimage to the shrine that is Champs Elysees and a covetable item for those who can afford it. May we wish for time to fly!

Guerlain's Coque d'or perfume presentation PerfumeShrine.com

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia: new fragrance

Magnolia is shaping up to be a major, recurrent theme in niche releases lately and one of the first officially "niche" brands, the one who introduced the notion of "perfume authors", namely Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle is issuing their own version: Eau de Magnolia, as depicted below.
After all, we at Perfume Shrine had announced it as a rumour 4 years ago!! (yes, really!)

via Ccercle/twitter

The task has been undertaken by acclaimed perfumer Carlos Benaim who knows how to construct a floral of this waxy and yet also lemony fresh blossom, fluffy and substantial at the same time. The effect can be nothing short of radiant! Up till now, Benaim's skills had been utilized in the Editions de Parfums line for the Home scents (for which he composed Cafe Society, Rosa Rugosa, Rubrum Lily, Jurassic Flower and Saint de Saints), but now a major new release of fine fragrance is trusted upon his shoulders for Eau de Magnolia.

Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums: soon at a Malle boutique or counter near you.

Jack Eau de Parfum: Withnail has a fume!

Beloved actor Richard E.Grant, the tall gaunt guy with the piercing blue gaze we have come to adore since, oh at least The Scarlet Pimpernel, Withnail & I and Track 29, is launching his very own perfume "Jack" tomorrow, April 2nd at Liberty, London, UK. (And no, this isn't a joke, though I'm sure Richard thought about launching on April 1st being rather funny in a non funny way).

Jack eau de parfum has its own dedicated site, is proudly British and contains shall we say interesting notes. Not to mention that the celebrity launching it is someone how does create anticipation, contrary to many many others in this field.

Jack eau de parfum by Richard E.Grant is a unisex eau de parfum with fragrant notes of lime, marijuana, mandarin, clove, pepper, nutmeg, oud, vetiver, white musk, tobacco absolute and olibanum resin.

Nubile Forms, Their Voices Echoing in the Woods

Cacharel produced a romantic (and I bet to be discussed) commercial for the first flanker of Anais Anais in 3 and a half decades (the original was issued in 1978), Anais Anais Premier Délice.
Sarah Moon gives her place to Olivia Bee (barely 19 herself) for this time around, shooting what looks like teenager models having a hippie good time in the woods. Dora Baghriche and Olivier Cresp of Firmenich have composed the new fragrance (eau de toilette 50 ml sells for 39,90 euros at the time of writing, international launch set for April 2014). The scent of Anais Anais Premier Délice starts with green pear, bergamot, galbanum and orange, with the heart familiarly floral with peony and hyacinth, while the anchoring notes include cocoa and cedarwood.

It's an interesting, though not novel, approach, since the flanker is supposed to capitalize on a well-established brand, which however has lost much of its fresh, youthful appeal now that its original audience is comprised of mothers with their own daughters. So, in order to capture the daughters, L'Oreal, who hold the licence to parfums Cacharel came up with this plan. After all, three quarters of the sales of Cacharel come from the perfume sector!

What do you think? Wow or Yawn? (I refer to the advertising aspect, rather than the list of notes)

Aromaforks: Scent Gadget to Enhance Food Experience

"A techy new fork boasts a special panel that can be infused with scents.
The Aromafork has a built-in spot for strips whose scents, when paired with actual food, can be registered by the brain as a new flavor combination.
The strips are made of materials not unlike facial blotting papers, and can be loaded with scents including chocolate, banana, basil, coconut and wasabi, among others."Read more on the Daily Mail.

pic via the dailymail/Molecule-R Flavors Inc.

Of course flavor is in big part smell, so this makes sense. I bet dedicated foodies however might have a dissenting voice or two among them.

What do you think? Wow or Yawn?

Win Guerlain's La Petite Robe Noire Scented Surprises

La Petite Robe Noire started as a curio a few years ago, mingling the Chanel "little black dress" concept with fragrance, illustrating the bottles with playful SATC black dresses cartoons which sorta alienated the regular Guerlain perfume die-hard yet jumping off the exclusive boutique circuit into the mainstream distribution after the scent proved a best-seller in the line. How things change, eh? Today La Petite Robe Noire boasts an entire line of concentrations and flankers with noticeable differences between the scent of each to keep women interested and buying.

Guerlain is organizing a contest which gauges your Glamourometer (yup, that's the word used) and allows you to win lots of LPRN fragrant surprises (including a large bottle of the perfume!) and you can enter it on this link, all you have to do is skip the film with the Nancy Sinatra tune. Good luck!

The human nose is seemingly an infinite smell detector

The latest news, as reported by The Guardian, attributes 1 trillion of separate scents to the human nose, as opposed to the till now standard 10,000 ones. This is based on a study led by biologist expert Dr.Andreas Keller of Rockfeller University, published in Science magazine (so you know it's not trash reproduced on the Net) and puts humans in a much more elevated capacity than previously anticipated for differentiating smells.

You can read the news article with quotes from Keller on this link. 

What do you think: Wow (so fascinating!) or Yawn (what does it matter to me anyway)? Vote!

New fragrance editions from Ramon Monegal and Acqua di Parma

Spanish perfumer Ramon Monegal has been commissioned to produce an exclusive fragrance for Bloomingdale's Dubai, called Dubai Next to Me, a special edition of 50ml eau de parfum in a specially decorated box. The fragrance aims to marry the magic of the traditional Arabic perfumery with some Spanish flair, via its Spanish leather touch. The top of Dubai Next to Me contains notes of fruits (coconut, peach, melon) alongside spices (Spanish saffron, nutmeg and black pepper), while the heart is floral and resinous with jasmine, rose (oil and absolute), frankincense and labdanum. The base is resting on woody notes (oud, sandalwood) with a leather touch as well as musk, tonka bean and ambraceme absolute.

Acqua di Parma on the other hand is issuing a 75ml bottle of their Acqua Nobili across the range of the female fragrances: Gelsomino, Magnolia and Iris.

There is also a Special Edition of Gelsomino Nobile, the fragrance in an exquisite refillable bottle (above) with hand-drawn features, fine engraving and 24K gold silk-screen-print. You can watch a video of the production process on this link.  The fragrance formula remains the same.

info via respective press releases, rephrased by me.

Guerlain's Mademoiselle Guerlain & Eau de Cashmere: new fragrances

In a christening that strongly recalls Chanel (and their ultra-successful Coco Mademoiselle) Guerlain is reissuing one of their past fragrances in their Les Parisiennes collection sold at Guerlain boutiques in the classic bee bottles.

Alongside this May's Guerlain Muguet 2014, summer will see Mademoiselle Guerlain take her stand proudly alongside the other re-issues in the Parisiennes collection, such as Cherry Blossom, Mon Precieux Nectar or Liu (the collection also includes L'Heure de Nuit which isn't a re-issue so much as a reinterpretation/modernisation of the iconic L'Heure Bleue).

The fragrance is a rebottling of a briefly circulating version of La Petite Robe Noire, in fact called La Petite Robe Noire Modele No.2, which consisted of different fragrant notes than the original La Petite Robe Noire (which continues to be sold very successfully in declinations of Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Extrait and La Petite Robe Noire Couture eau de parfum, all slightly different from each other). We're therefore talking about a renaming. Mademoiselle Guerlain, aka the former La Petite Robe Noire Modele no.2, comprises perfume notes of orange blossoms, marshmallow, galbanum, orris, leather accord and musk. (I can see die-hard boutique-only Guerlain-o-philes up in arms about the marshmallow note and the pink hue! You can read a review of La Petite Robe Noire Modele no.2 on this link.) To vintage hardcore fans may I remind there was a 1880 Bouquet Mademoiselle fragrance by Guerlain, composed of floral essences.

Let it be mentioned in passing for those who missed it that Guerlain has recently, to celebrate the centenary anniversary at 68 Champs Elysees and the renovation of the flagship, recreated several of the archived perfumes using the original formulae, affectionately called the recreated heritage Guerlain perfumes (more on which on the link). These however are NOT for sale, only for exhibition purposes for inquisitive Guerlain perfumephiles.

Mademoiselle Guerlain will be available starting June 2014 at Guerlain espaces and boutiques.

Guerlain is also augmenting their fabric scent options with Guerlain Eau de Cashmere, a unisex fabric scent that won't hurt delicate woolens and cashmere, and which reinforces the warm, soft ambience of those fabrics with its mandarin top notes and cedarwood and powdery drydown. This newer entry comes as an addition to Eau de Lit (a bed linen scent) and Eau de Lingerie (a scented water for underthings) in the Guerlain fabric scent collection.

[thanks to Mr.Guerlain Facebook page]

Esxense 2014 Calendar of Events

Esxence has announced the full calendar of events for the more popular perfume exhibition of niche creators in Milan.

Thursday, MARCH 20 

12:30 pm	Conference Artistic Perfumery: on the Links between Art and Perfumery with Prof. Claus Noppeney, Bern University of the Arts / Bern University of Applied Science
3:00 pm	Book Presentation I Giardini di Saffo by Prof. Giuseppe Squillace, Universita della Calabria
4:30 pm	Presentation Conversation about the Images with Mustafa Sabbagh interviewed by Ermano Picco, LaGardeniaNellOcchiello.com
5:30pm	Perfumed Cocktail Polysensorial Journey Inside the Perfumes of Edmond Roudnitska Marika Vecchiattini, BergamottoeBenzoino.com

Friday, MARCH 21

10:00 am	Workshop From Conflict Management to 'Pas ded Deux': Towards a Harmonious Niche fragrance Brand/Retail Interface Chairman: Sarah Colton, ThePerfumeMagazine.com and Beauty Fashion Magazine
12:30 pm	Workshop Artistic Perfumery in Middle East (R)evolution Parfumée Chairman: Alireza Khazal, LuxAssist & Co
2:30 pm	Conference The Chemistry in Perfume: Source of Creativity with bernard Bourgeouis, Osmotheque
4:30 pm	Lecture Smells of Saudi Arabia with Nicola Pozzani, S Sense The Senses of Perfume
6:00 pm	Olfactory Tasting Amarone: Smell and Taste the Great Red Italian Wine and its Perfumed Notes Danilo della Mura, Confraternita dell'Amarone and Stileltalia.tv

Saturday, MARCH 22

11:00 am	Book Presentation Michael Edwards - the Man behind Perfume Legends,Fragrances of the World and The Fragrance Wheel Michael Edwards interviewed by Mark Behnke, Colognoisseur.com
12:30 pm	Workshop by Mouillettes & Co Olf'Evolution with Maria Grazia Fornasier and Emanuel Rupi
2:00 pm	Lecture Scent Culture in East Asia with Chi Wai Tang, fragrance Moment
3:30 pm	Presentation by Sultanate of Oman Tourism Office Fragrance and Myths of Arabia Felix: The Frankincense Route and the Roses Gardens with Wanda Benati, Nadia Bizzarro, Sara Cusma
5:00 pm	Presentation Les Lignes de Parfumerie Alternatives Maisons de Luxe vs. Maisons de Niche with Carine Lanteri

Sunday, MARCH 23 

10:30 am	Tribute to Sandrine Videault
11:00 am	Book Presentation Parfums Rares Sabine Chabbert and Laurence Ferat interviewed by Tessa Williams
2:00 pm	Contest - Award Ceremony The Art Of Scent
3:00 pm	Workshop by Mouillettes & Co Olf'Evolution with Maria Grazia Fornasier and Emanuel Rupi

Please note that this year for the first time the Conference Room will be open to everybody, visitors and operators, for the four days of the event.

Guerlain Muguet 2014 and Guerlain News: Terracotta Le Parfum, reissues & discontinuations

Every May 1st, the Guerlain clientele can wear that year's limited edition of Guerlain Muguet which celebrates the "good luck" charm that lily of the valley stands for. The tradition of re-issuing the Muguet (i.e. Lily of the Valley) perfume dates from 2006 and you can find an article with the history and the bottles of the different annual edition of Guerlain Muguet on this link.

via elle.fr

This year Guerlain appealed to ceramist Brigitte de Bazelaire (associated with Porcelaines de la Fabrique who manufacture Limoges china since 1825). The process requires a double "baking" at more than 1000 degrees Centigrade.
The white biscuit porcelain container contains a bee bottle with a white bow and pale green liquid inside. The design reprises the style of Les Parisiennes, the boutique line sold at boutiques and espaces Guerlain. The scent is a realistic lily of the valley soliflore with additional notes of jasmine, bergamot and rose. The 2014 Guerlain Muguet edition is presented in 1872 numbered bottles internationally sold for 400 euros for 125ml, available from May 1st and for only a few days.

via elle.fr

There also other news for Guerlain maniacs:
First of all a discontinuation, though I'm expecting it won't go down with too much wailing: Guerlain L'Homme Eau (2010) is discontinued, a rumor which was originally reported on Mr.Guerlain's page and officially confirmed by Guerlain. Available therefore only while stocks last.

But there is also a reissue: Idylle Duet Rose Patchouli (from 2011), a flanker to the original Idylle, more info on which you can read on the linked article

Last but not least, Terracota le Parfum is a limited edition to celebrate 30 years of Terracotta products which have made the reputation of Guerlain makeup to the widths of the globe. This is a solar fragrance (reminiscent of summer via its salicylates allusions, not different than the effect in Terracotta Voile d'Ete  most probably) and you can see a linked picture of the bottle on Instagram.

Welcome Back in Production (Tauer Fragrance Re-Issue)

Next month, in March, Tauer Perfumes #12-Eau d'Epices returns to the shops after an absence of a year and a half.  Eau d'Epices is a quite interesting scent and very much falls into a love/hate relationship with the Tauer clientele. The "love's" are clamoring for the return and here it is!

I will be devoting more space to it since it is a perfume I personally like very much and hopefully there will be lots to discuss about some finer things in the production and distribution of niche perfumes. Stay tuned!

Smell Perception & the Neuroscience of Personality, Sun 2/23 in NYC

The two Karens of Sniffapalooza have created an event to be held on Sunday, February 23rd, in NYC.  The premise is how the chemical aspects of perfumery affect our smell perception and preferences and link to our personality traits (It also acts as a promo for the DAT line developed by Dr.Shamil, Dr.Fischer and M.Nardin, read on).

The event starts at 2pm with an elegant tea party at the theatre-district resto Etcetera Etcetera! The journey is led by Dr. Syed Shamil, who earned a Ph.D in Taste and Smell Perception from the University of Reading in the United Kingdom, before going on to managerial positions at PepsiCo, as well as leading flavor and fragrance houses Firmenich and Mane. Dr. Shamil has partnered with Dr. Helen Fisher, a renowned Biological Anthropologist, award-winning lecturer, research professor at Rutgers University, and the Chief Scientific Advisor at Match.com,  and Robertet Master Perfumer Mathieu Nardin, to create DAT (Doctor's Aromatic Treat). DAT is a line of 4 gender non-specific perfumes based on the neuroscience of personality and developed specifically to attract four broad, biologically-based styles of personality: Explorer, Builder, Director & Negotiator (according to the developers). Guests will have the option to take Dr. Fisher's questionnaire. Time for questions with Dr. Shamil, Dr. Fisher, and M. Nardin is also provided for, with the event finishing at about 4pm.

The registration fee to reserve your spot is $45, and reservations will be taken on a first-come basis. More info for those interested on this page.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Haute Voltige, Rapelle-toi, Onde Sensuelle: three new fragrances in Explosion d'Emotions

L'Artisan Parfumeur continues to harness the creative powers of perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour who adds to the line Explosion d'Emotions with three new fragrances: Haute Voltige (acrobatics), Rapelle-toi (remember!) and Onde Sensuelle (sensual wave). They form the Collection Detonante (the detonating collection) packaged in bright fuchsia.

The press release describes them in rapturous tones and I quote:

Haute Voltige

capture the exuberance

True excitement. Feel the goose bumps on your skin

as an intense joy takes over. This is an Eau de Parfum with an expansive and extroverted personality: where

a generous floral peony note meets with the unexpected fruitiness of pomegranate.

An explosion of joy.

Rapelle-toi

feel the beauty inside

Silence as a door to our inner thoughts. A contemplative fragrance, anchored in the stillness of our surroundings. With its mesmerising opulence, gardenia evokes this quiet introspection, enlivened with fresh vibrating notes of Sichuan pepper. This magnificent flower is enhanced with musks and smooth sandalwood with honey accents.

A beautiful transcendence.

Onde Sensuelle

the ache of desire

An insatiable, voracious desire is felt like a deep force, surging under the skin. A wave of sensuality washes over you. This Eau de Parfum is a work in contrasts, between a burning spicy bouquet of ginger, saffron and cumin, and the icy crispness of juniper berries and cardamom.

It recreates the sensation, and tension of this urge.

A captivating wave of passion.

The fragrances are presented in Eau de Parfum bottles of 125ml and are set to launch in early May 2014. 

Parfumerie Generale Isparta 26: new fragrance

“Rose is sent to earth by the gardeners of paradise for empowering the mind and the eye of the spirit.”
~Rumi

Such must have been the thoughts of perfumer Pierre Guillaume who chose the summery rose of Isparta, in the Anatolian plateau, in Turkey, to infuse his latest fragrance offering, offered in the midst of this harsh winter. Poised between chypre and oriental, the new opus is tagged Isparta 26 and incorporates mysterious resins and an animalic base over the sweet lightly spicy floralcy of the prized Isparta rose.

Fragrance notes for Parfumerie Generale Isparta 26 : Red Berries , Rose of Summer Isparta , Balsam of Peru , Calamus , Patchouli, Frankincense, Benzoin, Agar wood , Ambroxan , Moss

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde: When Guerlain Looked Towards Brazil (new fragrance)

The fact that Brazil is an emerging market for perfume companies is no big news to readers of this blog.  We have noted the phenomenon for some time, with niche perfumeries taking an interest in the country of Pele, favelas and endless beaches (see Batucada by L'Artisan Parfumeur for instance) as well as more mainstream luxury houses, such as Dior with their Escale sub-line. Now another European house of pedigree, the French Guerlain, joins them with a new fragrance in their light-hearted declination, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria line.

Limon Verde ( limón verde refers to lime and literally translates as "green lemon") is inspired by the refreshing note prominent in the national "drink" of Brazil, the Caipirinha, which routinely includes lime alongside sugar cane liquor and sugar. House perfumer Thierry Wasser married this Caipirinha accord with lime to a tropical green accord, fig and tonka bean for some tenacity in the new Guerlain eau de toilette.

Brazilians are not very far removed from the Mediterranean concept of a refreshing splash as a much needed pick-me-up in the hot throe of a summer spent under an unrelenting sun, where fragrance isn't seen a weapon of seduction as it is seen as a necessary sensual pleasure out of life that pertains to all sexes and all ages. In that spirit Guerlain can't do wrong.

It remains to be seen whether the local market will view it as homage to their "emblematic" lime cocktail note or they will use it as an effortless casual splash to be enjoyed all summer long. If you want to get a taste of what "clicks" for that particular market (which please note places a very high tax on all "western" luxury products and has very little "niche" infiltration so far, you can see the Best Seller perfumes list for Brazil for 2011-2012. )
Usually perfumes "inspired" by specific cultures necessarily bypass some elements to appeal to a wider audience, which is got to be true in the case of Limon Verde as well, seeing as it will come to North American and European markets.

Limon Verde by Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria line is launching internationally in spring 2014.

Esxence: the art perfumery's event for 2014

Like every March in the last 5 years and counting, Esxence: The Scent of Excellence is taking over Milan for the 6th edition of the art perfumery event during which creators, perfumers, distributors, critics and perfume lovers alike will be participating into the biggest exhibition this side of the Atlantic this spring. The event will space itself during 3 days, from March 20th till March 23rd, Thursday to Saturday from 10:30am to 6:30pm and on Sunday from 10:30am till 4:30pm at the Triennale di Milano.

The official site can be accessed here and full list of exhibitors can be seen on this link. Exhibitors interested in participating need to apply using this form, while journalists can download their invitation for attending on this link.

Surely an event not to miss, Esxence will be the meeting place for all the brands who excel at niche perfumery. Catch you there!