Elixirs Charnels/Carnal Elixirs by Guerlain: new fragrances

We had announced a while ago news of the upcoming launches of Guerlain and one by one they are materialising: from Guerlain Homme to the new Carnal Elixirs/Elixirs Charnels by Guerlain which are to be released in autumn. Today I am pleased to offer the readers of Perfume Shrine a first glimpse into what the new trio entails.

La Maison Guerlain with the help of perfumer Christine Nagel and artistic director Sylvaine Delacourte came up with the idea of feminine phantoms, roles which women emulate in their everyday lives and catered to every mood with a different magical potion which is aimed at producing a certain mood, a certain fantasy: the femme fatale of cinematic tendencies, the truly erotic, sensual woman, the playful woman-child. So, which type of woman will you be tonigh?

The exclusive trio will be encased in tall, rectangular bottles with shades of both L'art et la Matière aesthetic but also somehow the Lutens exports, albeit bearing a silver-platted label with the name etched at the base embossed with a vintage-looking floral garland. The juice itself will be in three shades of lavender, beige-rose and rose.


Gourmand Coquin, aimed at producing the playful innocence of the woman-child, who might be not so innocent after all, is playing on two terrains, with notes of chocolate, piquant pepper, soft vanillic rose and lively rhum. First impressions are hinting at a profusion of chocolate which was only hinted at in Iris Ganache, last year's Guerlain gourmand, producing a very rich and sensual composition.
Notes: black pepper, rose, rum, chocolate.

Chypre Fatal is geared towards the Hitchockian heroine, a femme fatale with a disposition to match. Its intense sillage, full of confidence announces a fiery heart under an exterior of icy demeanor. To make this woman unforgetable the composition is lightly woody and spicy, softened with lappings of the infamous Guerlain vanilla and white peach.
Notes: white peach, rose, patchouli, vanilla

Oriental Brûlant is composed for those women who produce an instant reaction to men, that is them loosening up their ties. This soft oriental is evoking the colour red and is sensual and feline to the extreme in its ambience, with its warm tonka beans and the soft caress of soft almonds. The impression is one of a soft and appealing oriental a la maniere Guerlain.
Notes: clementine, almond, tonka beans, vanilla

The new trio of Carnal Elixirs/Elixirs Charnels will be released in October in limited distribution at Guerlain boutiques, however the bottles will be available at Bergdorg's Goodman starting in August. If you happen to be there the helpful Jason Beers might be the person to guide you through them.

250$ for a 75ml/2.5oz bottle of Eau de Parfum.

Notes and pic found via culture marketing . Translation by Helg.

Winner of the Hilde Soliani Teatro Olfattivo draw

We have two winners: Jarvis for the Bell'Antonio sample and Jenavira13 for the Siparrio.
Please mail me with your info so I can send along your prizes.
Thank you all for participating and prepare yourselves for the next one!

Next post will feature a long-awaited exclusive. Stay tuned!

Top 25 of current fragrances we can still enjoy!

So often we perfumephiles come together online and discuss how things were different back then and how older perfumes were somehow deeper, richer, better. I always thought this makes us an anachronism! Most of us have not even lived that far back! Of course there is solid argument that the way ingredients' restrictions, mercenary cheapening of the formula, old names pastered onto completely different things and all around derivative creations are cropping up, the future of perfumery isn't too bright. So many fragrances have been discontinued as well, not to mention the crazy fashion of limited editions which leave the loyal fan seriously crestfallen when they finish the bottle with no hope of easy replenishing.
But in this joint project ~inspired by Perfume Posse's call to readers and my friend Denyse~ which we undertook with the Non Blonde, the Smelly Blog and Savvy Thinker, we tried to focus on what is out there still available, still in good form, still gist for our mills. We tried to celebrate the little gems that are awaiting our litte paws to gingerly open and apply!

Compiling lists can be both exciting and frustrating, though. There are just so many things one wants to include, but obviously some form of elimination should take place. I had to eliminate beautiful creations which were limited editions, such as the sublime Fleur de Narcisse by L'artisan. Some older classics which are still around and I loved dearly have changed dramatically with questionable results: Cabochard and Ma Griffe, for starters. Then there are those which are on precarious soil: Alpona is perhaps destined to discontinuation due to the heavy restrictions on oakmoss? The jury is still out. And some like Pontevecchio W by Nobile 1942, although I loved them, just couldn't fit into the alloted limit no matter how hard I tried to cram them.

So without further ado, here is an aplhabetical list of 25 fragrances I really love! By no means comprehensive and not highlighting their historical importance in perfumery (you can take a peak at my take on what marked scented history here). Just what has me always sighing with pleasure, my psyche elated and my mind appreciating, every time I open the bottles. Some are mainstream, some are niche, some are feminine, some are masculine, some are shared.
{Those which are highlighted have been reviewed on Perfume Shrine, the rest will get their share soon!}


1. Angélique Encens, Creed (nose: Henry Creed)
2. Avignon, Comme des Garcons Incense Series (nose: Bernand Duchaufour)
3. Bandit, Robert Piguet, in edp (nose: Germaine Cellier)
4. Carnal Flower, Frédéric Malle (nose: Dominique Ropion)
5. Chant d’arômes, Guerlain (nose: Jean Paul Guerlain)
6. Cruel Gardénia, Guerlain (nose: Randa Hammami)
7. Cuir de Russie, Chanel in extrait (nose: Ernest Beaux)
8. Déclaration, Cartier (nose: Jean Claude Ellena)
9. Diorella, Christian Dior (nose: Edmond Roudnitska)
10.Diorling, Christian Dior (nose: Paul Vacher)
11.Fifi, Fifi Chachnil (nose: Jean Guichard)
12.Film Noir, Ayla Moriel (nose: Ayala Moriel)
13.Fleurs d’oranger, Serge Lutens (nose: Chris Sheldrake)
14.Grand Amour, Annick Goutal (nose: Isabelle Doyen)
15.Iris Poudre, Frédéric Malle (nose: Pierre Bourdon)
16.Jasmin de Nuit, The Different Company (nose: Céline Ellena)
17.L’air de Rien, Miller Harris (nose: Lynn Harris)
18.L’air du desert Marocain, Tauer Perfumes (nose: Andy Tauer)
19.La Myrrhe, Serge Lutens (nose: Chris Sheldrake)
20.Mitsouko, Guerlain in extrait and edt (nose: Jacques Guerlain)
21.Narciso Rodriguez For her, edt and extrait (nose: Francis Kurkdjian)
22.Onda, Vero Profumo (nose: Vero Kern)
23.Opium, Yves Saint Laurent, in edt (nose: Jean Louis Sieuzac)
24.Vetiver Tonka, Hermessences (nose: Jean Claude Ellena)
25.Vol de Nuit, Guerlain, in extrait (nose: Jacques Guerlain)

Which fragrances comprise your top 25 list?

Please don't forget to check out the lists on The Non Blonde, Smelly Blog and Savvy Thinker as well.

Pic courtesy of jilly1964/photobucket and manipulated by me

When it Comes to Scent: Are Men Animals?

In this recent discovery of Chanel commercials we spanned the spectrum from the surreal to the atmospherically descriptive and it's now time to come to the anthropologically evolutionary.

Without spoiling much of the fun of watching the Chanel Allure commercial unfold: Does the lost link still exert its powerful hold on hominids? This is a popular theory, if only because it makes for greater sales of fragrance. And subliminally we would all like to believe that subtle, invisible touches play a major part in human interaction. Wouldn't it be magnificently practical, unscrupulously cunning and efficiently manipulative to be able to rely on smells to produce the desired effect? Imagine the possibilities: attract those we desire, repel those we despise, batress our persona when talking to bosses and less-liked authority figures, invoke respect and then shed the cool facade before it becomes aloof, excite passions and then reliquinsh them when satiated or bored with the simple shoosh of an atomiser...Wouldn't it be something!
On the other hand is the sensitivity to smells and the desire to act upon them tied to neoevolutionary anthropology, attributing specific evolutionary features to specific cultures? Another issue that has its own little enigmas attached provoking heated debate along the nature or nurture dilemma.
And is this evolution strictly misandrous, since the evolution of women is sadly misrepresented, even in scientific circles?
Whichever of those issues applies, this is still a profoundly interesting commercial. Not to be missed!

*It appears to be a legitimate commercial. Interested to hear if anyone of you has seen it broadcast.

Clip originally uploaded by allaboutnemo on youtube

Is Poker a Game of Skill or Chance?

One of the joys of advertising apart from the stirring of the imagination is the recreation of other times with all the exquisite details of bringing an aura of a forgotten epoch into the here and now. For Chanel the mythical era has always been the 1920s & 1930s: the time when she revolutionized the fashion (and fragrance) industry. It comes as no surprise therefore that a little touch of that glamour resplendent with marcelled/bobbed hair and dark-shaded lids and lips should reappear from time to time modernised or not so much.
The following Chanel Chance parfum commercial subscribes to the latter tendency and comes from 2006, featuring male model Vincent Lacrocq and actress Amandine Maugy in a setting worth its art director's salt. From the sumptuous dresses to the intricate jewellery (oh, the briolettes chandelier earrings!) to the exquisite recreation of hair and makeup, the clip makes me want to jump right into La Règle du Jeu.



They're playing poker (oh so suggestive!), a game which has a reputation to proceed it. He has a straight flush hand, she has a royal flush!
Just how probable that is in a single table, you'd ask. Well, the probability of a straight flush is 0.0015% among 2,598,560 possibilities to be exact! Talking about imagination.

There is some doubt whether this is a genuine advertisement sanctioned by Parfums Chanel, in light of Amandine Maugy's site mentioning this is a "fausse pub", meaning a mock commercial. However it has definitely the air of a grand-scale production, which requires a skilled director and crew; not to mention the Chanel logo and the brandname Chance is not merely edited to appear at the end like in amateur productions, but it appears in the cards themselves: an inherent part of the plot! Therefore there seems to be some truth in it after all. I believe this has aired somewhere and if you do recall it, please say so! I'd love to find out.

Clip originally uploaded by Nepraustaburnis on youtube