The Nose Knows: Inside IFF with FRÉDÉRIC MALLE

Malle, head of Editions de Parfums, one of the first few companies to position themselves as "niche", invites us to the midtown headquarters of IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) to learn about the science and art of perfumery. The IFF is part fragrance think tank, part Willy Wonka-esque factory. Many (if not most) of the world's leading fine fragrances have been imagined and created within its walls —and very few cameras are allowed inside. How could one refuse such an offer? So courtesy of Barneys who were allowed into the abode, I am happy to share this video with you.

In the clip, you see a visit to the laboratories at IFF and you meet Frédéric's esteemed collaborator perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, who worked with Malle and Dries Van Noten on their recently released fragrance, to get the full story on how a Frédéric Malle fragrance comes to be. F.Malle fragrances can be shopped at Barneys as well as the dedicated Editions de Parfums F.Malle site.

The Scent of the Ballet: Iris Prima by Penhaligon's (video)

The upcoming Penhaligon's fragrance, to be launched next month, is called Iris Prima and is touted to be "a work of olfactory choreography", with Iris Absolute in the role of the prima ballerina. In a unique partnership with English National Ballet, Penhaligon’s has set about capturing the very essence of the ballet, turning to master perfumer Alberto Morillas as choreographer. Iris Prima will launch on the 9th of September 2013. Enjoy the first of two films dedicated to the launch.

Fake vs.Real: Visual Perfume Tutorials for Safe Purchases

Anyone who has ever bought perfumes via Ebay (or on the street as opposed to from a certified store) knows how disappointing is the experience of getting a dud, a counterfeit perfume that looks like the real thing for the most part, but doesn't really deliver like the real thing. I have already devised a very popular how-to guide on purchasing fragrance safely online, but usually the visual evidence is ever so much helpful.  It has since come to my attention that several guys have actually created and uploaded Youtube tutorials on how to spot the fake cologne with side-by-side comparisons between the real and the fake. They often note how the seller of the counterfeits isn't some mass-store in China or Hong Kong and how the feeback might be rather alarmingly high sometimes! (Estimates speak of 1 in 10 perfumes sold being fake!)
For reference purposes and to put these helpful guides under one roof, so to speak, I am including the links to the videos here.

via pinterest

 As you can see by watching them, fakes come in "similar" (but not 100%) boxes and presentations and they always involve popular fragrances from the mainstream circuit; it just wouldn't make financially sense to copy a limited edition or an obscure niche fragrance. With that in mind, direct your purchases wisely.

Armani Aqua di Gio: fake vs. real

Burberry London men: fake vs. real 

Chanel Allure Homme Sport: fake vs. real

Chanel Blue: fake vs. real

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre (and other Chanels): fake vs. real 

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle: fake vs. real

Chanel ~ tips on spotting fake/counterfeit Chanel fragrance

Creed Silver Mountain Water: fake vs. real

Diesel Only the Brave: fake vs. real

Dior Homme Intense: fake vs. real

Dior Mightnight Poison: fake vs. real

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue homme: fake vs. real

Gaultier Le Male: fake vs. real

Gucci Rush: fake vs real

Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy: fake vs. real 

Paco Rabanne One Million: fake vs. real



Related reading on Perfume Shrine: What can I do to protect myself from fake perfumes and scams? 

"You never stop learning in this craft" IFRA video The Story of Fragrances

In IFRANA's (IFRA North America) documentary "The Story of Fragrances," experts from the fragrance industry reveal how artistry and passion combine with science and technology to create the world's most innovative fragrances and best-selling perfumes.

Pinning it Up chez Caron

The pin up Sasha Philippe (from holala.ch) is discovering perfumes and cosmetic powders at the Caron boutique. The concept belongs to Caroline de Surany. Sasha Philippe talks to (and kisses on the cheek) directeur de Caron monsieur Romain Alès.

The clips are directed by Thomas Leroux.

Guerlain Rose communelle, new Shalimar bottle by Jade Jagger, Parfums d'Amour book by J.P.Guerlain

Two clips concerning Guerlain perfumery via Wim Janssens who is an ardent Guerlain fan:
First the journey of the perfumer to Bulgaria to pick Bulgarian rose batches for the creation of the Guerlain "rose communelle" (the term used to denote the "blend" that becomes the Guerlain signature for that note)
Wasser choosing roses in Bulgaria
The other is centered on the creation of the new Shalimar bottle designed by Jade Jagger, explaining the vision between the modern, fresh look and the traditional design of this emblematic oriental. The footage comes from the press release at the Ritz, Paris.
Jade Jagger: "I wanted something modern and fresh"
Worth a look!



Jean Paul Guerlain on the other hand is coming out with a new publication via Le Cherche Midi. The new book penned by Jean Paul Guerlain is titled "Parfums d'Amour" and will be in French. In it he highlights his eternal love for vanilla while at the same time he promises to uncover some of the 'secrets' behind the creations of Samsara, Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Nuit d'Amour, Cherry Blossom, Habit Rouge, Vetiver and Vetiver pour Elle. Along with the book a 15ml vial of Spirituese Double Vanille will be included. "Parfums d'Amour" will be available in Guerlain boutiques from October 1st, 2010 and more widely distributed from 21st October onwards. Jean Paul is also the author of another book which takes the form of journey souvenirs for his many fragrance expeditions to source fragrance materials for his family business.
And don't forget: M.Guerlain will attend an evening of book signing on 30th September at the Champs Elysées boutique!

photo from the Guerlain boutique at Le Marais (thinkretail and elisadefeudeau

Top 5 Sexiest Fragrances

A BellaTV snippet (via PopSugar) featuring 5 picks from Scent Bar in Los Angeles (the brick & mortar store of Luckyscent). Basically a promo for Luckyscent, but oh well...it's a rather fun clip! Gotta love Zelena when she wrinkles her nose sniffing a bottle at 00:05. What bottle is that, by the way, anyone knows? Is it a Nanadebarry, Monocle Laurel or one of the Six Scents? And again when she first smells Molecule 01 (watch her expression, priceless micro-detail there) and proclaims it smelling very natural. I mean...Yeah, baby, yeah!

The five sexiest fragrances for men and women in the world according to Steven Gontarski, Scentbar expert (cute guy) are:

Lumière Noire pour Femme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Monyette Paris by Monyette Paris
Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules
Costes 2 by Costes
CDG Red Series Sequoia

Agree? Disagree? Have your say! Which scents rate as sexiest to you?

What's Life Without Fragrance?

For men, it apparently offers a sleeker look....
Enter Osmoz as well to win a year's worth of fragrance!

Watch also this clip and that one.

Clip via Osmoz TV

Thierry Wasser and Ora Ito on Idylle by Guerlain

A new site for Idylle by Guerlain (with a chinoiserie rendition of "Singing in the Rain" at the background) has launched and it's carefully orchestrated to reveal facets of the new perfume and its conception. The in-house perfumer at Guerlain, Thierry Wasser, talks (with English subtitles) about the concept, the choice of notes (strong emphasis on the rose as per him) and the image chosen for the newest feminine fragrance for mainstream distribution by Guerlain,Idylle, fronted by Nora Amezeder. Watch Wasser on this link.
Ora Ito, the designer behind the flacon in the shape of a gold drop, talks here. I have to admit that the site is beautifully constructed.
Perhaps the most mischievous thing on it however is the invitation to play online and enter to win a day at La Maison Guerlain.

Images of Chanel No.5 aboard a train....

With the anticipation building for the new campaign for Chanel No.5 aboard the Orient Expess en route to Constantinople/Istanbul, uniting new Chanel face Audrey Tautou (the protagonist of an upcoming film on the life of Coco Chanel, as analysed here) and a beautiful stranger (Travis Davenport) entranced by her perfume, we're all awaiting to see how the new spirit will materialise in the short film by Jean Pierre Jeunet (of Amélie and Delicatessen fame).

The good people at Chanel sent me a link with a teaser sequence of fragmented shots of the new mini-film which lasts 2.5 minutes and took 3 weeks to shoot in Paris studios, central France and Istanbul.

Take a look clicking on this link (and click on the other "titles" as well) and prepare yourselves for the full clip on May 5, symbolically in tandem with the perfume's number...

We will return with full commentary!

Pics from Vogue.fr, hellomagazine.ca, maxitendance.com

The Island of Dr.Muglerstein: what is Thierry Mugler doing now?

Some of us, last time we checked, have singed our retinas with an image of unrecognisable designer Thierry Mugler as Manfred the body-builder (was the name intentionally Byronesque?)in socks, sandals and little else. Everyone is free to do as they see fit with their body and their lives, but it was a strange path to Destructionville.
The Thierry Mugler fragrance line however seemed to have a life of its own, flourising into a multi-million dollar enterprise, creating a progeny of upstart imitators to boot and renewing its own faces fronting the advertisements. Mugler continues with a niche twist: the latest collection of scents was tightly distributed. "Oserez-vous la metamorphose?" (=Will you dare the metamorphosis?) was Mugler's last perfume collection's "Miroir, Miroir"(=looking-glass) motto and this tied in with his own metamorphosis. I am not sure if he envisioned himself as a chrysallis that was waiting to become a butterfly, because that would collide with my own perception, but you know what they say about tastes. Besides, Mugler seems to be after his own personal chimera and there is something painfully romantic about that, if you think about it.

Now, here he comes again with a new online project: The Island of Dr.Muglerstein (L'ile du Dr.Muglerstein), clickable here, brought by the Machinima Association.
The clip is funny in uniting the Moulin Rouge mill with that golden robot from Star Wars, sci-fi and comic books design with Angel and Alien hints. There is also a blog option in which apparently Mugler will be a cosmic storyteller guiding us through his intergalactic mutant adventures, judging by the alien figure emerging at the end of the clip.
And of course the title The Island of Dr.Muglerstein recalls the Island of Dr.No as well as The Island of Dr.Moreau by H.G.Wells (and the hundreds of artwork, novels and films inspired by it). And you do remember what happened in those stories, don't you!

Twisted! What do you think?

Link via POL and PaulJohn. Poster of The Island of Dr.Moreau 1977 film, courtesy of Wikipedia.