Underlying Notes by Eva Pasco: book review

Carla Matteo, a woman who is narrating her mid-life crisis and her hard-earned wisdom at the end of it, goes on through life's vagaries by taking to the bottle...the perfume bottle, that is! Yes, Carla is a regular perfume aficionado with a genuine fragrance passion that manifests itself in every corner and crook and Underlying Notes is her story.

Summer is the perfect time for a little light reading and several people I know revert to genres that are easy and well-suited to the pool cocktails or the straw-topped umbrelas on the sandy beach. Myself I leave Plato be and turn to Yannis Maris and his noir detective fiction and feel all the richer for it. Perfume enthusiasts have another focus too: books that are centered around perfume. That category is wide and includes endeavours from the more scientific & informed to the glossy coffee-table tomes and the caustically witty guides. But those rarely go well with the above-mentioned environment and are often cumbersome to drag along. No, the pleasure of discovering perfume references in a simple paperback novel is far greater for those moments and proves memorable in its own way. Romance novel writer and perfume lover Eva Pasco decided to do just that and write her debut book with a staggering amount of perfume name-dropping (and even descriptions that go into the notes!). As her heroine admits:

"I don't consider myself an addict anymore than someone who fancies himself or herself a collector of fine art, wine, rare books, antiques, stamps, or comics. I view this pursuit as a noble enterprise to elevate my olfactory senses, satisfy momentary whims, relive memories, restore tranquility, or boost flagging energy. Above all, fragrance completes me. I'd no more forgo fragrance than skip brushing my teeth or showering each day." (chapter 1)

I admit that when I first saw the recommendation on Amazon ("for women over 40"), I was left a little aghast, my mouth a little open, questioning both the apparent idiocy of such a recommendation (do women change that dramatically over 40 that even their reading choices should follow?) and my own interest in the material. Being short of reaching that landmark (if only I had the wisdom...) and not a fan of "women-geared" literature (chic-lit) on the whole, I was hesitant. However, upon reading it, I understood why the recommendation was made in the first place and mentally justified it a little more leniently this time.
This is clearly a book written by a woman; a woman who takes the center stage role of narrator and whose rite of passage is documented from a woman's perspective on the first person. On top of that that rite of passage does have to do with middle-age and the going through signposts that involve marriage, a possible seperation, setting up a new business, abandoning one's own dreams in favour of a spouse's and the intricasies of calibrating one's life into fitting many different roles ~much like women have been doing in the last century at least. One might even pick up a beauty tip or two along the way:

"I showered, towel dried, and rubbed China Rose lotion on my skin while damp.When it came time to put on my face, I blended moisturizer with concealer to camouflage the indelible gray south of the borders. I took more time than usual rubbing gel into my hair to lift and flick limp locks into place. As a grooming finale, I sprayed China Rose fragrance in the air, stepped into themist, and for the road, I squirted two pumps of juice onto a cotton ball for tucking inside the cleavage of my bra. When I finished dressing there wasjust enough time for me to round out my morning rituals by logging onto www.mistednotes.com." (chapter 20)

The plot is well-paced and easy to follow, the references are there for those wanting to seek them out and sometimes are chosen to highlight a particular mood or phase or evoking memories that are kept precious:

"That there could be other luscious fragrances lured me to my parents' bedroom where I never tired of exploring the bottles on the vanity tray. I'd loosen the caps and sniff without dabbing, thinking I pulled one over on them. Ma had to know by my vapor trails, but she allowed me this transgression. One day I blurted out my secret, in tears, because I had clumsily knocked over the porcelain southern belle atomizer—a gift from Daddy. The overhead umbrella broke so that it lay over her back, no longer offering protection from the sun and no longer able to spray. The loveliest spicy fragrance was forever entombed because of the irreparable damage I caused.Then Daddy bought me my own vanity tray for my bureau along with a blue bottle of Evening in Paris. About the time my breasts started budding, he gave me Tabu, which my mother disapproved of. In her mind, he granted a daughter license to wear red lipstick and nylons and go on dates. Incidentally, all three criteria would have been met "over his dead body." (chapter 1)

The characters are enjoyable with their own set of quirks; the mother in law and sister are particularly fun to watch, even if the husband, Joe, is a little too good to be 100% true, but I suppose it's important for women to see a man not backing off and supporting their wife's dreams. Even if those involve a little titillating soft-core, I get that the writer's point is that passion isn't dead when one witnesses their second and third ~and umpteenth~ wrinkle:

"He sniffed my scented wrists and inhaled the underlying notes lingering there before tracing his lips along a path from my cleavage down to the brink of my erogenous landscape. He parted my legs, kissed my inner thighs, and swirled his tongue inside the folds of damp flesh. {etc}".

If you enjoy the genre, Underlying Notes is a good companion for your vacation reading.

The book is available on Booklocker on this link.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Book reviews

Star Trek perfumes to unleash your inner captain Kirk

"The folks at Genki Wear, a geek themed jewelry manufacturer, have helped the Enterprise explore a strange new world of merchandising and seek out new lifeline accounts and financial liquidations with a line of Star Trek-inspired cologne and perfumes.And these aren't just randomly named perfume brands linked to the show to make a quick buck. The people who branded these babies have done their homework. The brands include two fragrances for men, Tiberius and Red Shirt, and for the ladies, an ultra-sensual pheromone love potion called Pon Farr Perfume". Read the whole article on TVSquad.

Tiberius, is said to contain notes of sweet citron zest, black pepper and cedar, while Red Shirt is "bright, clean and direct with top notes of green mandarin, bergamot and a hint of lavender", both for men who want to embody Kirk or Picard (there are two distinct groups of Trekdom and you don't to mess with the wrong one). Pon Farr Perfume, named for the septennial mating ritual of Vulcans has "light, clean top notes of citrus, blackcurrant, lotus blossom and water lily, and with base notes from sandalwood, peach and mulberry".

The Star Trek paraphernalia business isn't over. It has merely progressed to the next natural stage...

By popular demand: Pheromones again

As part of an experiment held by Dial soap, nine women at a lounge in New York were blindfolded and asked to select a date by sniffing scent strips.

"Three men had just showered using a body wash with synthesized pheromones, three had used a body wash without pheromones, and the rest had worked up a sweat and not washed at all. They then rubbed their arms on scent strips, and handed them to the women to sniff.
One participant, Michelle Hotaling, 24, chose a man who had used the pheromone body wash. “In appearance and personality he was not someone I would otherwise be convinced to go out with,” she said, once her blindfold came off. “But his scent was a factor that would push my decision to say,
‘Yes.’ ”
Me thinks she needs to go out more...

"The pheromone of choice for men is a family of steroids, related to testosterone, found near the axillary glands in the underarm area. For women, a commonly used compound is estratetraenol, a derivative of the sex hormone estradiol."

Read the whole article here along with historical references on the marketing of pheromones in personal care products.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Pheromone-ladden Body Washes and the Myth of Cumin as Related to Sweat

Pic via Getty Images

Il Profumo del Futuro: Pitti Immagine Fragrance Exhibition Florence

The 7th chapter of the Fragranze exhibition by Pitti Imagine, dedicated to the appreciation of artistic perfumery and niche brands will be held during Friday 11th to Sunday 13th September at Florence, Italy. The exhibition is focused on professionals, but is also open to the public on Saturday 12th (price admission 10 euros).

Participating perfumers and brands:

Céline Ellena, Pierre Guillaume, Mona di Orio, Clara Molloy, Honoré des Pres, Sigilli, Nasomatto, Les Parfums de Rosine, Biehl, Lorenzo Villoresi, Vero Kern, Etat Libre d’Orange, Esteban, Penhaligon’s, Byredo, Senke, Andy Tauer, Montale, Mark Buxton, Arturetto Landi, James Heeley, Eugenio Alphandery, Laboratorio Olfattivo, Creed, Miller Harris, Enrico Buccella, Felice Limosani, Annick Goutal, Christian David, Eau d’Italie, Pure Distance, By Terry, Jane Iredale, Laura Tonatto, Sebastian Alvarez Murena, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Bond n9, Maurizio Cerizza, Amouage, Etienne de Swardt, Lisa Simon, Marie Helene Rogeon (Rosine), Olivier Durbano.

Brands and perfumes featured:

Daimiris, Cozumel, Epic, Chaman’s Party, Bois Velours, Acqua Fiorentina, N.20, Blanche, Bois Plume, Alkemi, Oriental Lounge, Havana Vanille, Asprosa, Nuda, Ea, Alambar, Nu Green, Honoré’s Trip, Chaman’s Party, 3 Fleurs, Lime Tonic, Gardenia, Approdo, Futur, Midnight Oud, Chamarré, Cote d’Amour, Rum Tonic, La Rose Legere, Aouda, Night Scented Stock, Mare Nostrum, Nomaoud, Fat Electrician, Jabu, Versilia Vintage, Wazamba, Synthesized Lotus Roots.

Place and Time:

11-12-13 September 2009 from 10am to 6pm

Stazione Leopolda,

Via Fratelli Rosselli, Firenze/Florence

Forum event: Il Profumo del Futuro (fragrance of the future)

on 11th and 12th September 2009

Spazio Alcatraz – Stazione Leopolda

4 talk shows about new natural raw materials, global and regional odours, historical transformations of the olfactive sphere, and sensorial fusion (marrying perfume and wines)

You can download the programme on this link: press Calendario. You can also search for hotel reservations through the Pitti Imagine site (on previous link)

Amouage Epic for Women & Epic for Men: exclusive fragrance preview & review

It's no secret that Amouage, the Omani fim with a cult following, has impressed us with their dense, proudly classical compositions which hark back to an era of intense glamour and calculated style which by now seemed long-forgotten if not for them. As if one entered the Atlantis in Dubai and found out all the water faucets were of solid gold but made to look matte from a distance. After all, we have already lovingly reviewed the utterly gorgeous Jubilation 25 and the appealingly unusual baroque Ubar on these links, so there's no denying it.



The concept of the new Epic duo (in contrast to Ubar it is presented in both declinations, for men and women), explained when we scooped the news, is a fusion coming directly out of the Silk Route, the fabled course from China to the West through the hard desert soils of Arabia. The two new fragrances incorporate traditional Middle-Eastern notes of oud and frankincense, as well as tea and Chinese flowers representative of the Far East, like heroes crossing the steppes in their own personal quest for inward glory. Of the two I was much more swayed into contemplating a big bottle purchase by the magnificence of the feminine and let me explain why.

Amouage Epic for Men recalls an old-fashioned leathery (due to castoreum) fougère, a little reminiscent of Bel Ami or even Jules, with spicy accents and a light oud note throughout which is pleasing to me as the dense mustiness of oud usually leaves me with sensory overload unable to smell anything else. The spices, of the cool type, such as prominent cardamom, mace and nutmeg, along with the tea note, could have escaped from Cartier's Déclaration. But careful: in order to envision those notes in Epic one should picture the former's perfumer, Jean Claude Ellena, having gained a few pounds, accordingly acquiring a taste for heavier molecules and jotting down notes at a smoky oriental den where assistants bring in mysterious batches of eastern ingredients instead of the luminous and diaphanous atmosphere of Cambrais. The musky drydown phase of Epic for Men is sprinkled with incense, but the interplay of animalic with more austere elements stop it short of it being an erotic sense in the Kama Sutra sense of the word, although it possesses sensuality of its own. My man pronounced it "trying a bit too hard perhaps" despite its ~on the whole~ rather light and somber (rather than flamboyant) nature; which I deduce is his equating such scents with overt manifestations of masculinity when there is no need to. Although it is an easy entry into real oud and should have people approach it without fear, I think I prefer the more distinctive Jubilation XXV myself.

Amouage Epic for Women stands a magnificent specimen of artistic triumph for the house, its distinctive marriage of oud and rose perhaps the loveliest espousal of those precious ingredients on the market today.
The sophisticated, otherwordly character of this scent is immediately apparent, with the dark, velvety petals (underscored by complimentary geranium) unfurling into infinity under the gaze of medicinal and shadowy oud/oudh; the latter lending a strangely cool & warm aspect to the composition along with a nutty aftertaste. Greenish and fresher tonalities peek beneath the gauzy gowns like a gust of wind that surprises. This interplay of temperature has been a favoured game since at least the gothic Tubéreuse Criminelle, but it has come out to the fore again with another Lutensian composition we reviewed recently, the just launched Fille en Aiguilles. In Epic for Women the rounder ambery and floral elements underscored by a discreet sweetness conspire to produce an achingly beautiful synergy of brainy and sensuous elements fit for a princess. But its Parthian shot is there are no seductive stakes in the cards and this is a young, pensive woman (or man, who could wear this equally well) with an introspective, contemplative look who can fall hard for legends; "a faithfull heart who makes wishes come true".



Notes for Amouage Epic for Women: Cumin, pink bay, Damascena rose, cinnamon, geranium, jasmine, tea, amber, musk, incense, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, guiacwood, orris, aloeswood/oud.
Notes for Amouage Epic for Men:Pink pepper, cumin, cardamom, saffron, mace, nutmeg, myrtle, geranium, myrrh, aloeswood/oud, sandalwood, leather, incense, cedarwood, musk, castoreum.

The two flacons for Amouage Epic reflect the well-known design of the brand now interpreted in a luminous imperial green, the colour which is thought to protect from evil in the East, decorated with a Swarovski crystal. The Eau de Parfum is presented in 50ml/1.7oz and 100ml/3.4oz bottles. Soon at select boutiques and now online at the official Amouage site. If nothing else, click to watch the oneiric video of a woman dressed in flowing black gowns (with Japonesque makeup) accompanied by the grand 2nd movement of Beethoven's 7th Symphony.
The talented creative director of Amouage, mr.Christopher Chong informed us that he will be at the Pitti exhibition in Italy in September to answer the queries of perfume enthusiasts and present the new fragrances.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Amouage scents and news
Pic of Peter O'Toole and Omar Sharrif in Lawrence of Arabia via thecia.com.au