Showing posts with label in memoriam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label in memoriam. Show all posts

Thursday, January 20, 2022

In Memoriam: Gaspard Ulliel

 The actor who is best known to perfume lovers thanks to fronting the advertising campaign for Bleu de Chanel is no more. The star of many films, including an Yves Saint Laurent biopic (named Saint Laurent, an excellent casting choice!), Sibyl (2019) and Un Long Dimanche des Fiancailles (2004), Gaspard will be missed.


 

His life's thread was cut at the untimely and early age of 37 at a skiing accident. The claustrophobic atmosphere of the commercial for Chanel seems foreshadowing now.


 

Cast a thought for his ethereal and sophisticated beauty that will haunt our perfume bottles to their end. "For the man without limits". How ironically, tragically apt.



Thursday, December 20, 2018

In Memoriam: Vero Kern

It was with a sad heart (and some surprise) I learned of Vero Kern's passing.
It was an honor communicating with her, getting to know her kind nature, and experiencing her lovely fragrances, which proved beyond doubt that one can change course in life at any age. She will be missed.


And we will be longing for her creations, I bet, in the years to come. May someone pick up the line after her, to commemorate her talent and her generosity of spirit.

Tuesday, March 13, 2018

In Memoriam: Hubert de Givenchy 1927-2018

Heaven will be richer with Givenchy joining the ranks and meeting up with his favorite muse Audrey Hepburn...


A true noble man Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy founded The House of Givenchy in 1952 after stints as designer at Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, and Lucien Lelong. Interestingly enough, the lineage goes back to Italian roots (Venice) but he embodied French chic like very few designers ever have. The perfumes line will be fondly remembered.

Here on PerfumeShrine we have written about Givenchy and reviewed the following fragrances of the line:

Givenchy Ysatis fragrance review and history
Givenchy Le De Givenchy fragrance review and history
 Givenchy Ange our Demon fragrance review
Givenchy Eau de Vetyver: the history of a classic vetiver scent
 Givenchy Amarige: a tuberose of drama

Let's play tribute to the iconic designer. Which Givenchy fragrance is your favorite and why? Please share it in the comments. 

 

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Sonia Rykiel: 1930-2016

Sonia Flis is now more. The French designer better known as Sonia Rykiel has left this vain world. Her quirky and intellectual style will be remembered fondly. Her perfumes will continue to grace our wrists and necks in fond remembrance. From Le Parfum to 7eme Sens and on to Rykiel Woman Not for Men and Belle en Rykiel...Chapeau madame!

Dominique Isserman photo 1980

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

David Bowie: 1947-2016



Ziggy Stardust and the White Duke, rolled into one, have irrevocably gone where the white horses go. But their voice will keep on ringing in our ears. We are absolute beginners and we will always need our daydreams.

Donning Minotaure by Paloma Picasso, his favorite fragrance, according to his official website, in his honor today. (Bowie also allegedly wore Silver Mountain Water by Creed and fragrances from Floris, according to the two companies.)

Monday, December 7, 2015

Mariuccia Mandelli (Krizia): 1925 -2015

The woman behind the fashion design brand Krizia is no longer with us after 90 fruitful years on earth. The admirer of Plato who named her fashions after a female character of the famous Greek philosopher referencing feminine vanity opened her house in 1954. Her status as a pret-a-porter legend remains unfazed.


On her honor I'm wearing K de Krizia perfume today. And remain hopeful that her vision will go on under the new direction of the house; it was fortunate the purchase of it happened when it happened.

She been known to have said: "The only thing I wanted was to change woman's image with simplicity and respect; without shouts or troublemaking."

Thursday, June 11, 2015

Christopher Lee: 1922-2015

The defining voice of British horror and the towering stature are no more.
Here Christopher Lee is reading one of the best tales by an American dreamer...

A small piece of everyone's heart in childhood just died.


And in the following clip, one of my personal favorites, also American born and in great comical shape, pays a tribute to the handsome Sir Christopher.


Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Oscar de la Renta: 1932-2014

The Dominican designer Oscar de la Renta had to die at 82 years of age for me to find out his very Hellenic middle name, taken on from his mother's brother side, shame on me. Aristides, "of an excellent kind". How apt!

Amal Clooney's wedding dress was designed by Oscar de la Renta, photo via Vogue



the man via

The multi-awarded trainee of Cristóbal Balenciaga, and then at some point head designer for Balmain, who truly loved and cherished women throughout his opus, soon showed a keen eye for color, for red carpet gowns and for ensembles that dressed First Ladies and Hollywood film stars alike to great aplomb. He also designed Torguga Bay, a small boutique hotel, among the best in the world. And of course he diversified into elegant perfumes right from the 1970s onwards: Oscar original (1977), several Oscar flankers, So La Renta, RufflesVolupte, Something Blue, Live in Love, Esprit d'Oscar

via vintageadbrowser

dresses from the Fall 2012 colection



Fern Mallis, Executive Director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, had called him some years back "The Sultan of Suave". You couldn't have done better than that if you tried.

from the Exhibition "Five Decades of Style" showing dresses and tailleurs worn by First Ladies

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Joan Rivers: 1933-2014

The eternally self-deprecating, great Joan has silenced for ever. Her stint at the perfume and makeup counter shall always be remembered fondly.


Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Lauren Bacall: 1924-2014

"And death shall have no dominion.
No more may gulls cry at their ears
Or waves break loud on the seashores;
Where blew a flower may a flower no more
Lift its head to the blows of the rain;
Though they be mad and dead as nails,
Heads of the characters hammer through daisies;
Break in the sun till the sun breaks down,
And death shall have no dominion. "

~Dylan Thomas

via

The classy, beautiful Lauren Bacall has joined the ranks of the Pantheon. Her impeccable style and acting, her husky voice, her arched brows, her inspiring and defining romance with Bogie ( her less celebrated marriage to Jason Robarts Jr. isn't less fruitful) have etched themselves in our minds.
Her favorite fragrances, L'Ombre Dans L'Eau and Opôné  (Diptyque) and Paco Rabanne's Calandre shall remind Slim to us. She had great taste. A life lived to the fullest.

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Robin Williams: 1951-2014



The first movie of Robin Williams I ever watched was Popeye the Sailor Man. I remember I went with my elementary school English teacher, alongside two boys. And to this day I remember the occasion poignantly, because, first, I absolutely loved the movie (the transliteration of the cartoon into living, breathing beings, that wonderful Robin logo-diarrhea catching me like fly paper does to flies) and, secondly, it was the first time ever I got teased on my growing breasts. Yup, I as growing breasts early on, don't ask.

In 1989 Dead Poets Society (another formative moment in my timeline) was everything I aspired to be: inspirational, caring, eros-focused, unconventional for my students to be. The film remained with me for a long, long time and shaped me, I think, into part of what I am today.

From then on I never really lost sight of mr.Williams until today.

Robin Williams is my significant other's favorite actor. I recall watching a documentary together on the mating habits of dolphins (don't ask). Williams described how dolphins mated in nanoseconds, yet enthusiastically, like we do pecking the cheek, and I distinctly recall how effing tender and playful and child-like his face and eyes looked as he was describing this mating ritual. As if there couldn't be any shadow hanging down because, hey, dolphins are so lovable in just about everything they do and life is sweet, right?

For me, Williams ~like Dustin Hoffman~ will forever remain poised in my mind in that incredibly tender, (deceptively as it turns out) smiling face that resembles a naughty child one can't resist to.
O captain, my captain…


Sunday, October 27, 2013

Lou Reed: 1942-2013

Your face when sleeping is sublime
And then you open up your eyes

Then comes pancake factor number one
Eyeliner, rose hips and lip gloss, such fun
You're a slick little girl, you're a slick little girl
Rouge and coloring, incense and ice
Perfume and kisses, oh it's all so nice
You're a slick little girl, you're a slick little girl

Now we're coming out, out of our closets
Out on the streets, yeah, we're coming out


When you're in bed it's so wonderful
It'd be so nice to fall in love
When you get dressed I really get my fill
People say that it's impossible

Gowns lovely made out of lace
And all the things that you do to your face
You're a slick little girl, you're a slick little girl
Eyeliner, whitener then color the eyes
Yellow and green, oh what a surprise
You're a slick little girl, oh, you're such a slick little girl

Now we're coming out, out of our closets
Out on the streets, yes, we're coming out
Yeah, we're coming out ...



Or as Brian Eno said: ""The first Velvet Underground album only sold 10,000 copies, but everyone who bought it formed a band."


Thursday, July 4, 2013

In Memoriam: Sandrine Videault

Ashen Death

I used to think, my friends,
I used to think...
that all things
were marching on this Earth
in their true colors.
Joy was white,
grief was pale,
love was pink and
death was black.
I thought so...

And I passed my days
with my colors laid clear.
With my dreams tidy.
With my poems neatly written.
Because it was thus I saw them.
Or I thought so.

~Menelaus Lountemis (Constantinople 1906 - Athens 1977)


It is with extreme shock that I'm relaying the news of the untimely demise of perfumer Sandrine Videault, whose work and generosity of spirit -above all- I had come to love. Reading the somber email, thanks to the providence of her husband and Nathalie Prichard, left me with the bitter realization (once again) of how perishable we are, how frail. Just when she was about to launch her latest fragrance Magnolia Grandiflora, fate had other plans for her. May the soil that covers her be light, as she shed light to the lives of those she became a part of.

You can read an interview with Sandrine Videault I had conducted some time ago on this page.


Friday, June 21, 2013

Jean Louis Scherrer: 1935-2013

The French designer is no longer with us. Dead at the age of 78 after a long illness, this dancer turned fashion designer, will remain etched in our memories as an elegant couturier (who started at Dior, worked for Yves Saint Laurent and then Louis Féraud before opening his own house in rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1962) and the head of a perfume line of infinite grace and luxury: Jean Louis Scherrer pour femme, Scherrer II, Nuits Indiennes...


Stéphan Roulland said of him: "What Yves Saint Laurent stood for in Rive Gauche, Jean Louis Scherrer stood for in Rive Droite".

“It’s a beautiful brand and a prestigious house, with a fairly dramatic and very, very tumultuous history,” noted Didier Grumbach [president of the Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s governing body] who detailed the house’s numerous changes of ownership in his 2008 book, “Histoires de la Mode.” “Despite that, he maintained a great reputation through his couture designs, which were pleasant, slightly bourgeois and less radical than those of Saint Laurent, with whom he worked at Dior,” Grumbach said. “The quality of the workshops was very well-known.”
[source

Repose en paix.

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Andree Putman: 1925-2013


Andrée Putman, the "grande dame" of design, died in the age of 87. Introduced to American audiences with the renovation of hotel Morgans on Madison Avenue, exhibiting her clear, astute, elegant style, Putman brought in a new modernity in the world of interior design. Her chief characteristics in her work were luminosity and spaciousness. Her aphorisms are inimitable. ""Unless you have a feeling for that secret knowledge that modest things can be more beautiful than anything expensive, you will never have style."

In honor of her opus, there is going to be a review of her eponymous fragrance Preparation Parfumée Andrée Putman on these pages shortly. Stay tuned!


Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Guy Robert: Loving Tribute to a Legendary Perfumer

The creator of masterpieces Madame Rochas, Amouage Gold & Gold for Men, Dioressence, Calèche and the original 1955 Doblis by Hermès  is no more: Perfumer Guy Robert died on Monday 28th May. His mantra: Un parfum doit avant tout sent bon (a perfume should first and foremost smell good).
 One small anecdote (and some perfume quotes I will address below) shows us how historical memory is fleeting when it comes to perfumes and perfumers' work. Despite Robert's amazing and historically important work, not everything is recorded and much of what passed behind closed doors has escaped the written word. Like Robert's unknown perfume called Chouda...


Guy Leyssène, who met Madame Grès at a dinner part two years prior to Cabochard's launch, suggested that she should issue a perfume because it was a profitable enterprise which all the other fashion designers of the times had embarked on. The perfume that was in works was a composition by legendary perfumer Guy Robert, called Chouda. Then young Robert ~under the guidance of mentor Andrée Castanié, then editor of L'Officiel de la Mode et de la Couture~ had been introduced to Mme Grès in 1956. But it took a trip to India, the land of exoticism, which prompted Alix Grès to further her plans on the house’s fragrance. The visit had begun innocuously, invited by the Ford Foundation to assess Indian brocades. It was there that Alix Grès discovered water hyacinth: a flower she became enraptured with. It has a sweet odour, rich like tuberose, yet with a fresher top and slightly warmer. The experimentation of Guy Robert yeilded rich fruits: Alix loved it, however Chouda was almost exclusively used by her (only five litres of Chouda were ever made) as it was too flowery for the tastes of the 50s which veered towards classic chypres. She launched another fragrance under the pressure of public input: the mod of what was to become Cabochard, made by Bernand Chant of IFF, was received much more favourably and thus the plan to push Chouda was ultimately abandoned, although the two were issued almost simultaneously in 1959. It comes as a surprise that there were focus groups even back then, but it is a fact that puts things into perspective: public reception is (and will always be) the moniker of how things work in a sector that, although hinges on art, is also largely a business.

According to Luca Turin, as quoted by Chandler Burr:  "I got to know Guy Robert particularly well. He's a professional-level jazz pianist, writes fiction, is a terrific cook. You should hear him talking about olive oil. He knows the only place to get it. He took me to one of the best restaurants I've ever been to, Le Bistro le Paradou, west of Aix. He's in his seventies now. He's been in the business a long time, has bad relations with Jean Amic, the old head of Givaudan. It's a small world, Grasse. Everyone's screwed everyone else at some point, literally and figuratively."

Guy Robert's wit and realism were unparalleled. He said of Piguet's Bandit scent: "A beautiful, but brutal perfume." And on Ernest Daltroff of Caron, lamenting current state of affairs in perfumery: "Today, when copycats make money, and perfumers are discouraged by lawyers and toxicologists from using some of nature's most fascinating products, Daltroff's creations are a reminder of what true perfumery is all about. He devoted his unique taste and sense of balance to a quest for fragrance perfection." [quotes via Michael Edwards, Perfume Legends]
And on composing: “We are like painters: some use simple colors, others prefer sophisticated ones. It's the result that matters” [quote Guy Robert, Les Sens du Parfum]


Guy Robert belongs to a clan of perfumers as is typical with classic French noses; nephew of Henri Robert, the second perfumer after Beaux at Chanel and famously the nose behind Coty's Muguet de Bois, Chanel pour Monsieur, Chanel No. 19 and Cristalle, while Guy's own son is François Robert who worked on Lanvin Vetyver and the newer Les Parfums de Rosine scents. Between 1949 and his death he worked for six different fragrance houses (Hermès, Rochas, Dior, Gucci, Amouage and The Pink Room), learning perfumery, creating perfume and then supervising groups of perfumers.

In 1961, at the prompting of Jean-René Guerrand (son-in-law of Émile Hermès and founder of the fragrances branch), the perfumer Guy Robert composed Calèche, a masterpiece which instantly transformed Hermès into one of the major players of modern perfumery. Nine years later, moreover, he would be the author of Équipage, the House's first fragrance for men and arguably one of the most graceful to this day. But in the decades of the 1950s, 1960s, 1970s and 1980s he also composed numerous perfumers' bases and accords which have been incorporated into ready-made fragrances credited to other perfumers. He also composed The Pink Room perfume Parfum No.1 pour toi: "The Pink Room Parfum Number 1 was then created with the wonderful Guy Robert as mentor, guide and friend. It was an eidetic experience of the textures, colours and ambience of The Pink room. Having produced Number 1, it became clear to Sarah where her senses were leading her, in a very niche and special way." [quote: Sarah Barton-King]

In his work he served internatioal clients but also involved in the training of new perfumers. Guy Robert considered 'Amouage Gold' a symphony and the crowning glory of his career.
Robert was not without author's credentials either: His Les Sens du Parfum (where he lists some of his favorite perfumes, among them the original Quelques Fleurs, Coty's Cordon Vert alongside Coty's Chypre, Ambre Antique, Emeraude, L'Origan and devotes space to the opus of Germaine Cellier) is considered a handbook into appreciating the art of perfumes, while he served as President of La Société Française des Parfumeurs.

He will be sorely missed. Our condolences to his family.

Guy Robert's known perfume oeuvre comprises, apart from scented products for the body, perfumers' bases and cosmetics:

Friday, May 18, 2012

Josephine Catapano: 1918- 2012

Joséphine Catapano, a long time perfumer with International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) and one of the few celebrated women perfumers in the business, passed away last Tuesday at the age of 93.

Catapano was given a Lifetime Achievement Award by the American Society of Perfumers in 1993 and the Cosmetic Career Women's Award in 1980. She is considered one of the truly greats and Sophia Grojsman, herself a veteran, considers her her mentor. Among Joséphine Catapano's scented creations is the classic Youth Dew for Estee Lauder (working alongside Ernest Shiftan) and the equally classic if considerably less known Norell (circulating under Revlon for many years), as well as the first Shiseido Zen and Fidji for Guy Laroche. Alas, her name never made headlines like perfumers today; in an era when perfume was shrouded in mystery, the true creator was never revealed...

photo via yesterday's perfume

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Alec Lawless: 1960-2012

An accident in late March cut off the life thread of Alec Lawless, fun personality, communication wizard, scented naturals teacher and mad professor Boris's alter ego.

Alec Lawless was formerly married to Julia Lawless, renowned aromatherapist and author of The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils and he ran an essential oil company called ‘Acqua Oleum’ which supplied companies all over Europe. He's the author of the perfume book Being Led by the Nose, reviewed on these pages, which serves as the perfect compendium on natural materials and blending.
His colourful personality and unique contribution will be missed.



Friday, December 9, 2011

Mona di Orio: 1969-2011

I can't describe the feeling I got upon hearing the perfumer Mona di Orio has just died. Totally unexpected! Her untimely passing at the young age of 42 came about during or after surgery, according to reportage.
My deepest condolences to her family and friends and deep sympathies to all perfumistadom mourning for such a young loss.
The best way she can go on living is on our skin, by wearing her perfumes; like my beloved Mona di Orio Carnation, her Nuit Noire, her Nombres d'Or Musc.



Born in 1969 in Annecy, France, of an Italian father and a Spanish mother, Mona was famously a protégée of legendary perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. She went on from there to form her own brand in 2004, Mona di Orio parfums.

The official Facebook page and her partner Jeroen Oude Sogtoen state: "Today, completely unexpected and leaving us in great sorrow, our great inspirer, friend, colleague and name giver to her great loves, her beautifull parfum creations, MONA DI ORIO has passed away.
We are shocked and deeply saddened and speechless but will still help realize her dreams.
Team Mona di Orio Parfums"

Read older interviews with Mona di Orio on Osmoz and at The Perfume Magazine.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Evelyn Lauder: 1936-2011


Pink was Evelyn H. Lauder's colour. The breast health advocate and founder of the Pink Ribbon campaign working for Estée Lauder for more than 50 years (she was Leonard Lauder's wife) died from ovarian cancer at her Manhattan home. 
She will be fondly remembered for all her action in the support of women, her graciousness and her kind manner.

photo of Evelyn Lauder and Greek designer Dukas who designed the latest pink bracelet for the campaign against breast cancer via ermoumag

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