Estee Lauder Cinnabar: fragrance review & notes on inspiration

 

Cinnabar by Estée Lauder needs no introduction, really. It's well known at least by name to most perfume collectors. Its magical name accounts for much of its mystique, but the scent, bold, spicy, dense, plush is also cause for its reputation. 

photo borrowed via pinterest

 This is a perfume inspired by the natural pigment made from high-purity cinnabar mineral (HgS, Mercuric Sulfide) originating from China, which is characterized by its intense red hue. Cinnabar was mentioned by Theophrastus in the 4th century BC, and known in Greece as early as the 6th century BC as a natural red pigment. It was widely used in Greco-Roman and later painting, as well as in frescoes, portable icons, and Renaissance manuscripts. But the orientalized use is what stuck to the collective unconscious, and hence the name and references were perfect for an Far East fantasy of fragrant spices and all the rich tales of the Silk Road.

photo borrowed via pinterest

  Cinnabar was Lauder's stake at the end of the 1970s into the spicy oriental race which also gave us the legendary Opium. Developed however without direct influence from the YSL fragrances, although the packaging does indicate references to YSL's idea of the inro with the tassel, but rather from the progenitor of it all, Youth Dew by Lauder again.

With its intense cloves and spicy lily heart, Cinnabar therefore harkens back to Youth Dew and its mellis accord, but lightens the balsamic base notes by focusing on the incense-y tonality and the patchouli which nicely sidekicks the spices. The recent repackaging into the Classics collection, in the oblong bottles, is supreme, retaining the essence of the original and projecting like an amulet of spicy delight. A legend unto its own.

Macademia Nuts: the New Nut Trend in The Body Shop Macademia Nut & Cheirosa 71

 

Nuts were huge this past year. The perennial almonds, the hip pistacchios and the richly baklava-reminiscent walnuts...How about macadamia nuts, oily and neutral in terms of sweetness, but deliciously, mischievously salted, rendering their slightly bitter nuttiness into a rich aftertaste? 

 For this effect there is the appropriately named The Body Shop Butter me Up which takes nut butters to a whole other level, but more importantly the commercially successful, like Cheirosa 71(by hip and popular Sol de Janeiro brand) which put macadamia nuts on the perfumephile's map.
The effect is realistic, true to the nut, as in a profoundly oily scent, very caramelic too, yet the effect is crisp and crunchy. It feels like sweet & salty pop corn drizzled with caramel in a way!

Top Fragrance Trends to Watch in 2026

 Forecasting is always a question of insightful reading of what is going on in any given industry, as well as a good instinct on how the public responds to what is going on. Therefore to predict the top fragrance trends to watch in 2026, I need to point out what we noticed in 2025 first. And then give you my predictions. Let's see at the end of this year whether I was right or wrong. 

photo borrowed via Pinterest

What we saw in 2025

Brands are finally shaking off the depression spirit of the pandemic era, even though it was the one that increased the desire for perfume in the first place... as a test of Covid's loss of smell. The public is somewhat tired of the safe trend for sweet bases with thick and powerful amber-woods and oud bases (replicating agarwood resin) intended to denote luxury and are now turning to well-being and personal satisfaction effects. In 2025, many things were debunked about the purchase, manufacture and copying by Arabs (the prevalent culture of dupes). 

At the same time, we reached an oversaturation in fragrance launches, where hundreds of new releases smelled and looked like so many others, especially in the sweet confectionery olfactory profile. Fortunately, the perfume industry is working on new molecules, new ideas and a new style of presentation, so that perfume becomes mainly an experience and emotion for GenZ rather than an accessory to show off wealth or status. After all, this is no longer the case on a planet on precarious balance. 

Last but not least, it was the year that Givaudan perfumer Quentin Bisch became a mega-star on the perfume channels (taking over from the previous beloved of the perfume community, Francis Kurkdjian, who seems to have disappointed audiences since taking over as permanent perfumer at Dior). His use of Titan-strong molecules produced by Givaudan has changed the entire industry. 

Fragrance Trends to Watch in 2026 

1. Creamy, milky, and fruity scents 

 Whether expressed through fruity, woody, or coconut milk notes, lactones (a chemical class of molecules that evoke ripe fruit or summery woods like fig tree) were a defining trend in 2025 and will continue into 2026. Even consumers who aren’t technically familiar with the meaning of the adjective “lactone” have embraced this creamy aesthetic. The movement was sparked by the viral social media buzz that catapulted fragrances like Blanche Bête and Bianco Latte into the spotlight, and the industry has followed suit. This journey is far from over. Expect a steady stream of creamy sweet compositions throughout the year, often accented with nutty notes — the other big obsession as seen in the frenzy around pistachio and notes of “Dubai chocolate”.

photo borrowed via Pinterest

 
2. The trend for crunchy effects, in granola and cookies notes

 In the field of smell, the play of textures is starting to dominate, moving from the salty trend of last year and the year before to olfactory impressions reminiscent of crunchy cookies, baked oats and popcorn. I remind you that popcorn was an innovation introduced by the late Miss Dior Cherie two decades ago! 

photo borrowed via Pinterest

We saw at the same time a multifaceted spectrum of vanilla marrying with the crunchy textures: dark, amber or on the contrary woody with a delicate taste of nuts or milk that married with the style that dominates in candles, and all this surfacing in refined fruity-floral fragrances in posh brands. The crunchy effects are evident already in Crush Akro (which recreates in the form of a fragrance the delicacy of lychee macarons) and Miutine by Miu Miu (like sponge cake with pieces of strawberry interspaced).

 The nostalgia of childish desserts and olfactory effects recodes the low-priced and accessible style now at a high price, but more vexingly claims to be considered high culture. Niche has become as uniform and conformist as mainstream, at places, which will outdo its purpose and come at breaking point. 

 3. Freshness is back! 

Perhaps we are tired of the monothematic prevalence of so-called gourmand perfumes, sweet with references to desserts, or of boozy, alcoholic perfumes, with references to spirits, rum and aged cognacs and whiskeys. After wearing, with true mania of overspraying I might add and with a certain aspirational desire of belonging, well-known brands of the central luxury department stores (Kilian, Xerjoff, Marly, Tom Ford Private Line), the public has finally overcome the obsession. People are tentatively revisiting the fresher compositions that recall the 1990s. Or even earlier, the chic fresh colognes of the glorious 60s and 70s. Hereby we can cite the wonderful Acqua di Parma Buongiorno or Le Labo Eucalyptus 20 that resembles a living tree full of juices and aromatic woodies which remain lighter in feeling. 

photo borrowed via Pinterest

But freshness also takes on the shades of the earth after a storm, with fragrances that give the effect of petrichor and rainy morning: for example the wonderful and pioneering (from 2015), but with a tongue-twister name, Hermann à mes Côtés me Paraissait une Ombre from the previously iconoclastic French Etat Libre d’ Orange. Reminiscent of the city after a heavy rainstorm. We will see more such fragrances, often Asian (see trend #5) 

 4. The integration of Artificial Intelligence in the production and composition of fragrances 

 Perfumery has surpassed itself in the way it captures odors, moving away from the smell of a single object or plant to embrace fragrances that function as sensory translations of an entire field or to give effects that aspire to recreate space, time or completely abstract concepts. 

photo borrowed via Pinterest 

The brand Paco Rabanne pioneered with Phantom but many are following in its footsteps, so we have not seen much yet. 

 5. The rise of Asian and especially Chinese brands 

 After perfumery hailing from or replicating the aura of the Middle East, we observe in the West a tsunami of new brands coming from Japan, South Korea, China, Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam with a minimalist profile: Zhufu, itā, ChuJian, cent.pm, to Define, Fukudo… 

Possibly as revenge for Trump’s infamous tariffs, the new Asian brands usually offer affordable prices on differentiated olfactory profiles that renew traditional elements. Like a tea ceremony, with notes of matcha but also calligraphy ink, rice and fine incense. They project the feeling of spa and tranquillity that we usually identify with Eastern philosophies, so it's fitting. Will they eventually displace the milky, thick creamy and sweet aromas of desserts? It remains to be seen.

Let's bookmark this post and review it anew at the end of the year. Marketeers, take note in the meantime if you want to promote your fragrance and mail me for more if interested in working together. 

Oriflame Sublime Tonka: short fragrance review

 

Sublime Nature Tonka Bean by Oriflame is a fresh interpretation of tonka beans. The fragrance is positioned in the Premium branch of the cosmetics giant, and is composed by Nathalie Lorson, a woman who knows how to produce smooth, elegant compositions in the register of soft. 

 Sublime Nature Tonka Bean is a rather mono-thematic fragrance, focusing on how the wrinkled black beans exude an almondy scent but the tapestry is finished with a transparent, slightly salty Cascalone molecule that gives it the impression of seeds washed on the shore. Delightful and easily wearable! What's not to like?

It's very easy to pick it up in the morning and lends itself to both cool and warm weather, truly pan seasonal, a good thing for regions with temperamental weather. Proof also that good stuff needn't be too recherché. I think it's not circulating anymore, but worth searching it out. 

Happy New Year 2026 and best perfumes of 2025

 It is always a validation counting yet another year piling in one's life; not everyone manages to do so, alas. It is also a pleasure counting successes and work relations with the very best people. It's something earned, not just happening. In light of aromatic escapades and collaborations in the realm of perfumery, 2025 has been satisfactorily full, and I wish for 2026 to be just as successful and more so!

In the meantime, here is what I chose for the best in 2025 and hope you share with me your own choices and discoveries in the comments.

Dependable best 2025 fragrances

Shalimar L’Essence, released by Guerlain to mark the 100th anniversary of the iconic original, is truly a cause for celebration. Guerlain’s dedication to its heritage is well-documented and rightly praised; this edition achieves the rare feat of modernizing a legend without betraying its soul. It acts as a sort of "training bra" for new acolytes—a welcoming entry point into the mythos; no rubbery notes like the current eau de parfum edition, just suede but not limp-wristed at all. 

 Ysayo is the latest offering from the Dutch niche house Puredistance, and it is a compelling fragrance to savor. Perfumer Antoine Lie masterfully explores European and Japanese themes, resulting in a deeply satisfying composition. Animalic, green, acrid, rich, very satisfyingly old school but done in a contemporary way by perfumer Antoine Lie whose work we follow with rapt attention. 

 Very Worth Your While Fragrances 2025

Vetiveria by Ormonde Jayne is a freshie that merits noting for the warmer months ahead. While the market is saturated with hundreds of vetiver fragrances, the finest among them are truly magnificent. In my view, Ormonde Jayne’s 2025 release, Vetiveria, is superior to the brand’s earlier Zizan—a more traditional masculine vetiver from the house's early years. The addition of tonka bean, with its subtle almond-like impression, is a particularly inspired choice that creates a compelling tension within the composition. A case of upgrading a pillar fragrance through a new concentration or flanker. Not unheard of, but worth noticing always. 

Barénia Eau de Parfum Intense by Hermès smooths the rough edges of the original Barénia while heightening the boldness. It is an intellectual chypre with a leathery veneer—a masterful example of how to reassert a brand's status in the luxury sector. I vastly prefer it to last year’s pillar. 

 With Tonka Latte, the French house Dusita Parfums reimagines the milky-almond gourmand genre with exceptional refinement. It allows one to indulge in a gourmand profile without being overwhelmed by the "diabetic" excesses found in many contemporary scents. It's part of the easy-to-wear, creamy aroma of toasted almonds and posh body lotions, yummy but Parisian-chic too. 

Manos Gerakis and his team possess the technical finesse and balance required to create impeccable, upscale compositions. These scents behave with a social grace befitting an adult, rather than a hungry kindergartner. This year’s Amandus is a gourmand executed with perfection. 

You can read more details on my Fragrantica end of the year article. 

Unexpected discoveries of 2025 

 Olymra, a new niche brand from Switzerland, headed by a Greek scientist. Moving away from tired tourist clichés and grounded in a solid scientific foundation, this Swiss-Greek was my introduction to the wider perfume discussion online. My latest discovery, then, the brand was founded by Dr. Frederiki (Frida) Mihailidou, an award-winning Organic Chemistry lecturer and researcher in Biochemistry based in Zurich. I was immediately struck by her dedication to the chemistry of the rare flora found on Mount Olympus—the brand's namesake—which culminated in a scientific expedition of botanists and chemists in situ. The 6 fragrances have a high load of natural extracts in their formula and smell alive. 

Amphore Athenes is a Greek niche brand, which explores the realm of Hellenistic influences in perfume, through the lens of cultural associations. The website is where the action goes, I hope they upgrade the infrastructure to be fully functioning with the cart soon. 

 On the other end of the spectrum, Lidl supermarkets have updated their inexpensive line of small bottles of fragrant eaux. The one called Salted Breeze is the best, in my humble opinion, being quite close to Jo Malone's Wood Sage & Sea Salt at a tiny fraction of the price. You do need to spray a lot of this one, as no matter its eau de parfum concentration it is rather thin, but the payoff is good. 

photo borrowed via Pinterest

The MEMO Paris line of leather fragrances has been tampered with. The scents smell less leathery, the oomph has gone done. French Leather however remains very good still. 

The persistence of lactonic fragrances as a major trend.Whether expressed through notes of peach, sandalwood, or coconut milk, lactones were a defining trend this year. Even consumers who are not technically versed in the meaning of the adjective "lactonic" have embraced this creamy aesthetic. The movement was ignited by the social media virality that catapulted fragrances like Blanche Bête and Bianco Latte into the spotlight, and the industry has followed suit. This trajectory is far from over; expect a continued wave of creamy, peachy compositions, often accented by nut accords—the other major obsession of the year (as seen in the frenzy surrounding pistachio and the so called "Dubai chocolate" notes).

Interviews I took from inside the industry

With perfumer Christina Koutsoudaki part 1 and part 2

With perfumer Ioanna Tanionou part 1 and part 2

Interviews the media took from me

Perfume as an industry and cultural signposts for the meta-niche scene Part 1

and  Ancient and Byzantine history insights on scent and perfumery Part 2

LIFO.gr: Arabian perfumes -copies and dupes or not?  (a top 10 info-portal/webzine in Greece)

The New York Times, interview by Joanna Cassidy

Happy New Year everybody!

Almond, marzipan and Tonka Latte by Dusita

 

Marzipan, the almond paste soft enough to mold into shapes, on the other hand, has known commercial success long before hazelnut became a household name. 

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There is Hypnotic Poison of course to thank for that. a staggering success across all age brackets, to the point that for many this is the archetypal Poison (especially millennials who did not recall the original Poison from the 1980s). Pi (Givenchy) was also strong, especially in the years following since its launch in 1998, opening the vista for masculine fragrances into something unapologetically sweet. Jour de Fête, again from L’Artisan Parfumeur, took the almond note into a special preparation in 2004: sugared almonds (also called Jordan almonds for some). And then Tonka Impériale from Guerlain folded the almondy paste into the glorious effect of a baroque serving table in 2010. 

photo borrowed via 

 Dusita Tonka Latte is the latest offering on the edible deliciousness of almond, launched in 2025. Soft marzipan is an understatement. As I had written, back when picking the best launches I had tried until the first weeks of summer, "The gourmand genre is overshadowing everything in its stride, commercially dominating the market, especially in the 17-40 age group. It's not something to cry about, of course, people need the jolt of newness to respark their interest in perfumery. The French brand Dusita recreates the milk-almondy genre with their newest creation Tonka Latte in a refined way. It therefore makes it possible to indulge in a gourmand fragrance without being overwhelmed by the diabetic proclivities of so many other scents. If you're searching for that easy-to-wear milky-creamy scent of toasted almonds and posh body lotions, the scent to wear after a bath and on silken sheets beside a loved one, you've arrived. Look no further."

Elena Vosnaki: I am being interviewed on Skai.gr

Journalist Myriam Kiassou and radio-tv media group Skai.gr proposed an interview which we conducted in two parts. Below the direct links (in Greek) 

Mου παίρνουν συνέντευξη στο Skai.gr, η δημοσιογράφος Μύριαμ Κιάσσου, σε δύο μέρη (στα ελληνικά), κάτωθι οι απευθείας σύνδεσμοι. 

Roman alabastra 

This is the first part, where I talk about the Business side of perfume and perfumery in Greece and abroad (mainstream and niche). And this is the second part, where I talk about the largely unknown archaeology and history of perfumery and offer insights on how memory, culture and fragrance interweave throughout the ages. 

Εδώ το πρώτο μέρος για την πλευρά Business του αρώματος στην Ελλάδα και διεθνώς (κλάδος πολυτελείας και κλάδος niche, με εμπορικές πληροφορίες για την αγορά). Κι εδώ το δεύτερο μέρος όπου μιλώ για την άγνωστη αρχαιολογία κι ιστορία του αρώματος και πώς ο πολιτισμός συνδέεται άρρηκτα μαζί του. 

Thanks for reading and more to come soon! Ευχαριστώ για την ανάγνωση και περισσότερα σύντομα!

Annick Goutal Nuit et Confidences: fragrance review

Nuit et Confidences is the most typically sensual, sweet, and stereotypically "evening" of the series originally named Oiseaux de Nuit and later renamed Les Parfums de Géraldine, after the moniker Annick Goutal took in her 1970s modelling years. Nevertheless it is not the darkest one -that is rightfully Tenue de Soirée which I reviewed here.

via pinterest

Drunk (as in intoxicating, for lovers) vanilla forms the heart of the fragrance, soaked in rum and with a slightly almondy marzipan texture at the edges of this fragrance's spectrum. It is set with white jasmine, more innocent than carnal. I'd call Goutal's Nuit et Confidences a cross between rich, multifaceted vanillas like Spiritueuse Double Vanille (Guerlain) and the darkness of Eau Duelle (Diptyque). It is intended for occasions when a lack of imagination is required. This trait almost promises a best seller, and yet it was not meant to be. However, it is like a topaz in gold-bronze tones, suggesting the diamond qualities of a diamond in cognac tones: even if it does not approach the mentioned examples in strength of character, it exerts its own attraction. 

 Like the moniker "nightwear" in the series, the fragrances do not betray the quality of Goutal perfumes, even if the perfumer-stamp of the first and middle releases, which established the "small brand for exquisite perfume lovers," has since changed from Isabelle Doyen to Mathieu Nardin of Robertet.

 

 Les Parfums de Géraldine, of which Nuit et Confidences is part, are available in 30ml (1 fl.oz), 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.), and 100 ml (3.3 fl.oz.) bottles of Eau de Parfum concentration at select stockists

Annick Goutal Etoile d' une nuit: fragrance review

 Étoile d'Une Nuit is the delicate "boudoir fragrance" that the viewer of period TV series fantasizes about - fragile, nostalgic, sometimes stuffy. However, Goutal does not plan to join the banality and convenience of ready-made "cosmetic powder" perfume bases, which are precisely the ones that risk anesthetizing the noses of the unfortunate males who will come into contact with them. Instead, the brand looks back to her older lacy fragrance La Violette, creating the most delicate of the "night birds" quartet. Here, she retransmits that ethereal atmosphere of La Violette together with the frambinone molecule to "cut" the excessive old-fashionedness. Light musk, of superior aesthetics, subtle, clear, not at all like harsh detergent, fills the composition, imparting cleanliness and a clear powdery and light skin scent sensation. It is closely related to Kenzo Flower and its powdery-violet aura.

pic via pinterest

Goutal perfumes possess that je ne sais quoi that we admire about femininity in older paintings, movies, poems, literature... and this is no exception. It is subtle, but discernible, and in an era when the gender borders have expanded, it is rather retro, but not in an obsolete way. It is pearlescent and ethereal. It has its own charm. And charm has always been at the very heart of the Annick Goutal brand. Dainty, delicate, beautiful, and with the innocent love of a budding young woman opening her wings to the world. 

 Like the moniker "nightwear" in the series, the fragrance does not betray the quality of Goutal perfumes, even if the perfumer-stamp of the first and middle releases, which established the "small brand for exquisite perfume lovers," has since changed from Isabelle Doyen to Mathieu Nardin of Robertet. Les Parfums de Géraldine Etoile d' une Nuit is available in 30ml (1 fl.oz), 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.), and 100 ml (3.3 fl.oz.) bottles of Eau de Parfum concentration at select stockists. More info on the official Goutal Paris website.

Annick Goutal Tenue de Soiree: fragrance review

 Goutal Paris has been through a few changes in the last few years, which we have been following with the rapt attention of someone journaling a favorite artist's track. From changing hands to redirecting their aesthetics, the Goutal brand has surprised fans with its rebranding, but also disappointed some of the acolytes of its distinct style. A quartet of their fragrances, of which Tenue de Soirée is the object of this review, deserves more attention, as it didn't get the interest it merits when they first launched. 

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The series under Amore Pacific was initially called Oiseaux de Nuit (Night Birds), a name with inescapable and erotically-charged Anais Nin overtones, and was later renamed Les Parfums de Géraldine, following the heritage of the deceased founder of the house, Annick Goutal, who made a career under that name in the 1970s. 

 Tenue de Soirée is the most suggestive, flirtatious, and subversive of this series. The hint of blackcurrant liqueur wraps the chocolate patchouli of the composition in the pleasure of night romance, revealing it in a silky garment (with leather straps) full of promises. The sensuality is close to that of Bottega Veneta's eponymous and sadly discontinued fragrance, with hints of eroticism rather than overt displays of flesh. Notes of powder, vanilla, and the freshness of bergamot (which unexpectedly emerges AFTER the scent of edibles has subsided, like dewdrops of the first dawn) make Tenue de Soirée fragile, sensitive, truly lacy. It is feminine without clichés. The sweetness and bitterness are distributed in equal amounts in Tenue de Soirée and do not betray the quality expected of Goutal perfumes.

The perfumer is Mathieu Nardin and the concentration is Eau de Parfum, available in 30, 50, 100 ml sizes.

CLEAN Soft Laundry: fragrance review

 

Perhaps philosophically speaking, clean sheets and laundry scents bring on a sense of control, and maybe this is what lured me into CLEAN Soft Laundry. We yearn for control in so many areas of our lives that it seems tidying up the house and doing laundry is an occasion where that control can be exerted without much resistance. Visiting a spa is another association: fresh warm towels, fluffy and soft, and comforting. Elation. 

 The problem, however, with many of those fragrances in the "clean" genre is that they might project as sharp, piercing, too detergent-like. They are, after all, directly inspired by the scent of laundry detergents, and aim to replicate that moment of happiness—the moment one opens the washing machine and is overwhelmed by the sheer cleanliness of the freshly washed load. And the iconography of them all is associated with blue skies, starched white (that almost blinding white that never hints at cream), and poised ladies who enjoy their own existence rather too much. 

It might all get back to White Linen by perfumer Sophia Grojsman, though that aldehydic composition highlighted soapy notes in a somewhat different retro way. Aldehydic scents, those built on the sequence of so-called fatty aldehydes (C10, C11, and C12) as demonstrated in Chanel No. 5 Eau de Toilette and a group of other classics, from Chanel N°22 and White Linen (Estée Lauder) to Calèche by Hermès, are usually mentioned when the topic is "soapy." 

There is also something about the dryness and clarity of muguet notes (lily of the valley) that enhances the feeling of clean starchiness in a contemporary formula. Pure cuddly soapiness and freshly showered skin also lure in innocent by-standers into making one appearing more sympathetic. They project friendly vibes and bring tokens of peace. Perfect for when out on the prowl wanting to appear totally innocent like a baby, but also magnificently presentable. CLEAN Soft Laundry interestingly is not like the usual sharp detergent-like olfactory profile, though it's certainly a specimen of that genre. It is rather close to Pure Grace by Philosophy, the brand that made ripples in the pond (no pun intended) in the mid-2000s with their light, airy, soft, and unintrusive fragrances before the advent of the gourmands. Perfumer Steven Claise is officially mentioned as the nose behind CLEAN Soft Laundry, and his portfolio shows a penchant for making this sort of scent: Marc Jacobs Cotton Splash 2016 and Charlie White Musk (1997) are both credited to him. 

The composition benefits from aqueous notes, which had been long associated with marine fragrances from the 1990s, and yet there is a different ambience here. Urban and yet radiant, bright and yet soft, like an Eric Satie composition. The scent is lightly floral and airy, like that of the ingredients Numpheal and Florazone. It translates as dewdrops on a freshly washed line of linens in the wind and is ever so slightly sweetish and calm. It's the familiarity that beckons. The fruity note du jour of pear adds a juicy component but never veers into fruity territory. It almost feels like fruit from a terrestrial tree where sparkles of soap and light garland the produce, and where the scented air feels ripe with oncoming rain and electrical forces. And yet... softness. Calm. And zen-serenity. In many ways, CLEAN Soft Laundry is true to its name, and this is precious indeed, especially in the turmoil of international events we're witnessing right now.

Guerlain Vetiver Parfum: short fragrance review

 

Vetiver Parfum by the historical house of Guerlain is another success by perfumer Delphine Jelk, after Habit Rouge Parfum. She managed to bring something new in a classic by the venerable French house.

 Their older classic version of Guerlain Vetiver has been the reliable fall-back-upon fragrance in summer of many generations of men and discerning women. Women? Yes, besides this humble writer hereby, we can cite the supermodel Elle McPherson as someone who has graced her glorious form with Vetiver by Guerlain as her signature scent for many, many summers. 

 The newest Vetiver Parfum version came in 2024 to spice up the proceedings (literally, it smells spicy up top, piquant and quick-witted) and to amplify the smoky facets that were lurking in Chanel Sycomore's previous attempt to do a similar thing (I am referring the Eau de Toilette edition in Les Exclusifs collection). Now that the Eau de Parfum version of the latter seems so oddly diluted in comparison and so inexplicably expensive, the Guerlain edition will fill in the gap. I'm grateful.

Lancome Poeme: fragrance review & musings

 

Even after thirty years since the launch of Lancome's Poême ads in glossy magazines, those images with poetic lines and the expressive face of actress Juliette Binoche (well known from The Lovers on the Bridge, Three Colors: Blue, The English Patient and the adaptation of Wuthering Heights), as shot by Richard Avedon, are etched into memory and continue to produce sighs of elation from perfume lovers around the world.

 According to the official launch, "Poême is a scent of contrasts: the icy transparent notes of Blue Himalayan Poppy embrace the intoxicating Desert Datura Flower and warm Vanilla, creating something vibrant, sensual, and long-lasting." At the time, no one had any solid information to doubt perfume blurbs coming from sales assistants. Nowadays the information is so vast and nuanced that it might even kill information. No one would be so trusting now. Instead of blue, the deep crocus-hued yellow of the carton box tells the story. The fragrance smells yellow, sweet, dense — it is mellifluous. The reality is that Poême is a scent choke-full of orange blossoms, honeyed and rich and plush. 

Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud took a well-known ingredient and skyrocketed its effects with the touch of a true illusionist. Mimosa is also a component that contributes to its plush yet non-carnal effects. 

   "Parfois les mots ne disent pas tout…" — "Sometimes words don't say it all..." 

 Sunny like a warm afternoon spent in the glow of a happy encounter with a loved one. Lyrical like a musical piece floating in the air from a nearby impromptu street orchestra. Delicious the way floral fragrances can be, Lancome's Poême is dense without veering into the saccharine territory of modern fragrances. It's honeyed, dripping with sweetness, yet not the edible kind, rather the nectar hidden under the pollen and the stamen, ripe for harvesting by thick bumblebees, the kind we don't readily see anymore. 

Poême is wildly optimistic and makes me deliriously happy when I can taste it in small quantities, preferably when someone else is wearing it. The inclusion of lactone/ketone notes in a fruity-floral context adds a hint of peach smell to the scent pyramid, while velvety vanilla softens the explosive floral heart and lingers for hours or days on clothes. The hour of the golden encounter is perched in -seeming- eternity. A hint of narcissus and of miniscule spice adds to the fascination.

Guerlain Habit Rouge Parfum: short fragrance review

 

Making a successful flanker — or rather, a more concentrated form of Guerlain's classic for men — is a Herculean feat. Still Delphine Jelk made it possible in Habit Rouge Parfum. I might be excused for including it here in the summer, since it launched in late 2024, but it arrived on our shores after New Year's day, so it had to be mentioned sometime afterwards. 

Despite it being in the orientalized direction of boozy alcohol (rum, in this instance) and with a touch of patchouli that might have seemed incongruent in the proceedings of this silky soft robe de chambre of a fragrance, it is not at all heavy. Habit Rouge Parfum might therefore suit a summer's night spent fine dining al fresco under the stars. Dreamy. 

For comparison's sake, please refer to my detailed fragrance review of the original classic Habit Rouge by Guerlain on this link and consult for historical details. 

 More reading on PerfumeShrine: 

Habit Rouge Sport fragrance review 

Habit Rouge advertising 

Habit Rouge L' Eau launch 

Habit Rouge Armoiries edition

Yves Rocher Pur Desir de Gardenia: fragrance review

 

The now discontinued Yves Rocher Pur Desir de Gardenia (i.e. pure desire for gardenia) is perhaps the most lamented true gardenia discontinuation in perfumery, barring the one by Estee Lauder (Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia). 

                               via pinterest 

Tom Ford's Velvet Gardenia comes up a close second or third maybe, representing the browned ripe gardenia that is just starting to deteriorate beyond salvation. It has been discontinued and brought back in the Reserve Collection. "Lushest, wettest, freshest, creamiest jungle gardenia. White petals and thick green leaves. That's it and it's all there. This is the most realistic gardenia fragrance." Thus writes about Pur Desir de Gardenia a reader and I can totally back this up. 

  Pur Desir de Gardenia is the essence of gardenia, built on jasmolactones and with a touch of styrallyl acetate maybe for the green part, in a sort of old-school-technique that perfumers used to do so well and then abandoned. The creamy and the lush elements are freshened up with the intensity of the green in Pur Desir de Gardenia, giving me the illusion of a budding gardenia, one which unfurls its petals in continuous orgasmic fervour. A marvel and at the same time a romantic elegy. The folly of not stocking up when one could... 

It's a puzzle why Yves Rocher stopped making this, as their Pur Desir line of soliflores was excellent to begin with, and this one was the jewel of the crown. The perfect embodiment of a single flower, that of the gardenia, is this vintage fragrance which those who recall it love with the unbridled passion reserved for true gems.

Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Aegea: fragrance review

 

Estée Lauder just launched a new limited edition flanker to its popular 2008 fragrance Bronze Goddess named Bronze Goddess Aegea. The name suggests inspiration from the feeling of an island escape on an island in the Aegean Sea. Following last year's Bronze Goddess Flora Verde, the new version differs from the tropical suntan lotion of coconut and ylang that most summer flankers of that sort of genre have to offer.

The allusion of the Aegean with its rich history and specific references is hard to do justice in a perfume, nevertheless. And yet Bronze Goddess Aegea is not amiss. It has a dry feeling of dried hay that perfectly recalls one feeling that is prevalent in Greece: the dust from the ground, the soil, which sits on everything till the gust of wild winds of the Aegean redistributes it anew.

Lauder has again invested in the tourist interest for Greek island-hopping, launching Aegean Blossom for the Aerin brand. The images were breathtaking, the minimalist luxury of a veranda over the sea and pottery with big, fragrant flowers flanking the easy living of summer. A dreamlike sequence.

The coconut is discreet in Bronze Goddess Aegea, more of an idea of suntan oil than of actual suntan formula, or tropical fruity, and the so-called bougainvillea note manages to give that dusty feeling to the proceedings. It's as if one lays down on a stack of dry hay to rest when the sun rises to its apex and tourists are advised to lay low, wear their hats, and take little to no action apart from taking a swim. It's a silent hour, the hour of siesta, of the moment when the upcoming transport is almost liquified at the end of the horizon. Then rises the fig — inviting, green, and very delectable — a very characteristic note of Greek summer, beloved in perfumery ever since Premier Figuier (L' Artisan Parfumeur) and Philosykos (Diptyque), whose Hellenic-inspired background makes my heart warm. It's a lovely fig note, delicate, smooth and mouth-watering, which elevates Bronze Goddess Aegea beyond the usual summer concoction. 

The clean musk at the base makes it last and become skin-scent-like after several hours, melting with the green-milky-soft ambiance. It makes this limited edition a must-add to any Lauder collector, but more importantly, a must-have for anyone dreaming of catching a whiff of the glorious Greek summer while cooped up in an office somewhere urban and stifled. Enjoy wisely as Bronze Goddess Aegea is a limited edition! 

NOTES for Bronze Goddess Aegea
Top: Italian bergamot, ylang-ylang, violet leaf
Heart: fig nectar, pink bougainvillea, jasmine sambac absolute
Base: sandalwood, coconut milk, musk

More PerfumeShrine articles to read: Beauty and the Beach, beachy scents for summer

Perfume Photography: Dior Dioressence

photo copyright by Elena Vosnaki

 

Annick Goutal Paris Folie d'un Soir: fragrance review & photography

 

If Halfeti (Penhaligon's) and Encens Mythique (Guerlain) were to have a hypothetical child, it would inherit facets apparent in Folie d'un Soir by Goutal Paris. It is the bittersweet myrrh, the hidden but omnipresent rose oil with its most oriental notes, and a patchouli aftertaste like that of Coromandel by Chanel. 

photo by Elena Vosnaki

 In short, a fragrance that pleases, attracts, and easily creates shivers. A cool or even cold evening brings out the tender fluffy boa that accompanies Folie d'un Soir like a cat's tail wrapped around you ready for caresses. 

photo by Elena Vosnaki

 

There is something very feminine and ladylike about Annick Goutal perfumes, however, in the classic French tradition, the lady in question can also forget about her prim manners in the bedroom. 

 Folie d'un Soir is now part of the collection Les Parfums de Geraldine (formely Les Oiseaux de Nuit)

Histoires de Parfums 1826: fragrance review

 Spicy stuff is usually reserved for wintertime because it so often appears in heavier compositions such as spicy oriental fragrances, a genre many of us love but that people around us find a bit retro and therefore not always pleasant. Rejoice then for a spicy citrus and oriental musk blend from a very worthwhile niche company that has retained its integrity and pedigree in an era of easy cash grab. 1826 by Histoires de Parfums is inspired by Eugénie de Montijo, the last French empress who was born in Granada, the jewel of Andalusia. 

photo Deborah Turbeville - Models in Valentino, VOGUE Italia borrowed via Pinterest

A sparkling beauty, her seductive nature and temperamental elegance delighted Napoleon the Third. It was for her that Guerlain made to measure his famous Eau de Cologne Imperiale Guerlain. It was those famous historical people, like her, as well as characters from novels, that inspired the first collection by venerable French niche brand Histoires de Parfums, the brainchild of Gerarl Ghislain. 

 Powdery violet is allied to spicy cinnamon and piquant ginger notes in the heart of 1826, but not before this is first refreshed with a rush of hesperidia—happy and aromatic, almost aggressive citrus notes that tumble out of the bottle in song. A honeyed ambience like a ripe orchard is present, they're never sour or sharp. Then the synergy with the prolonged musky drydown makes it appear woody, orientalised, dry, yet restrained. There is the elegance of sipping earl grey tea while reading an old book with violets dried inside its pages by the window overlooking a beautiful citrus grove...

Beautifully balanced, 1826  by Histoires de Parfums always welcome in any season, but especially when the weather warms up. 

Launch date: 2001

The older bottles have a retro label with a crest and a chiseled bronze-gold cap. The newer bottles are sparse with a rectangle shaped bottle that is visually cut in half, thus making the cap seem off, and they fit into their boxes like in a cardboard drawer, as if meant to display unto the shelves of a library. Very cute idea! 

The perfumer behind 1826 by Histoires de Parfums is Sylvie Jourdet. 

Top notes are Tangerine and Bergamot;
middle notes are Violet, White Flowers, Cinnamon and Ginger;
base notes are Patchouli, Amber, Woody Notes, Incense, Musk and Vanilla.

Ex Nihilo Iris Porcelana: fragrance review

 

In January 2022, Ex Nihilo introduced a new women's fragrance, Iris Porcelana. The inspiration for its creation was fine porcelain that came to Europe from the East, as well as a perfume material called Pallida iris. The perfumer is Dalia Izem (of Givaudan), a young perfumer from Dubai. The fragrance joined the main collection of the brand named Initiale, which already includes bestsellers such as Fleur Narcotique and Lust in Paradise and is therefore a useful gauge of how brands perceive materials and concepts. 

photo borrowed from Pinterest

The iris one is very popular, having become almost synonymous with a delicate feminity that is so sought after by many, many women nowadays. Alongside violet, it's often at the core of "powdery fragrances." Notes like milk, vanilla, iris, ambrette seeds, cashmere woods, musk, "cotton," and soap also define a genre of fragrances that create a sense of comfort and serenity, very sought after during and since the pandemic. Truth is, iris "notes" are routinely produced through less expensive methods. But this is neither here nor there; their magic happens not because of the cost itself, but of the perceived value.It's all a game of smoke-and-mirrors! But it works. It definitely works. 

 In Iris Porcelana by Ex Nihilo, the iris is rendered lightly metallic, with an eau de vie touch, and then fanned on something totally unexpected: Hazelnuts! The star ingredient appears thanks to a potent aromachemical in several creations in recent years. Being safe for even food use (GRAS), it is exploited with gay abandon in perfumery, exactly because it is not going to be on the chopping block of potential allergens in the near future. 

 From the intense praline in Angel Muse by Mugler to Amouage Guidance (a fragrance which I reviewed here and which takes Filbertone to the next level by overdosing), this trend shows no signs of abating: Devotion Intense, Patchouli Noisette, Valentino Uomo, English Oak & Hazelnut (Jo Malone), Aimez moi comme je suis (Caron), Joop! Homme Eau de Parfum, several boutique fragrances in the Trussardi line, Vetiver Gris, and even La Vie est Belle L'eau de parfum Intense. The precursor in the combination of Iris Porcelana is probably Praliné de Santal by innovative niche creator Pierre Guillaume. He coupled the sandalwood milkiness with the hazelnut savory facets and created an atypical fragrance that fascinates. And of course the pioneer was Mechant Loup by L'artisan Parfumeur as far back (in relative terms of contemporary perfumery) in 1997!