Diptyque expands with L'art du Soin into Sensuous Voyages

One of the first "niche" houses, Diptyque was founded in 1961 by three friends into design who opened their first boutique in boulevard Saint Germain in Paris. Thanks to their candles (available since 1963) and their fragrances (available since 1968), Diptyque has known a growth that seemed unprecedented for such a small project and they have created a dedicated following for those who are in the know. It was indicated to me when I first began being interested in alternative lines that there was this "secret" little brand that had been issuing cult scents in Paris and that everyone who was anyone would travel to get some of them. This was before the niche "craziness" that erupted in the late 90s and the 2000s. Another source had intimated that Lauren Bacall was making an annual pilgrimage every December to buy her Christmas candles from them. Marisa Berenson, the 70s style icon finds there the "haute couture in candles" while Philip Stark "the most Proustian fragrances". It was enough to convince me and Philosykos, a fragrance that captures perfectly the smell of a Greek, hot, dusty fig-tree in late August, sealed the deal for good and opened the door for many other things to follow.
Now, after a business takeover in 2005 by private equity fund, Manzanita Capital who nevertheless kept Yves Coueslant and Christiane Gautrot, the two remaining living founders, involved, Diptyque has seriously spread its wings into a new realm: Cutting back some of their stock, adding other products and now expanding with their L'art du Soin into the aromatic body skincare, a segment that was missing.
The new line is the equivalent of a scented voyage to the Mediterranean and each of the five products corresponds to a different entourage around the old, beloved mare nostrum.
The creamy gel for bath and shower is inspired by Alep, the city of authentic, old-fashioned soap, and is redolent of the olive oil and laurel smells that so often form the aromatic basis of good, handmade soaps.
The body milk is refreshing, perfumed by the joyful orange blossom which takes us to Alexandria, an oasis ante portas of the scorching desert.
The rich body cream is an illusionary trip to Byzantium, voluptuous, decadent and oriental and ready to spoil us with the luxurious (and expensive) argan oil, honey and rosewater.
The hand balm is a virtual trip to Cordoba where the apricot trees are laden with blossoms and it utilises the rich oil of apricot, karite butter and argan oil to nourish, repair and soften hands that take care of everything.
Last, but not least, the bath and body oil is an homage to the parfumers et gantiers of Florence, where the gloves of the aristocracy were fragranced with iris essence. The delicate and elegant scent has been added to a mixture of nourishing macademia nut oil, argan oil and sweet almond oil.
All the scents co-ordinate with each other and can be layered at will.

But perhaps the most interesting part is that they are devoid of aluminum, synthetic colourants and sulphates derived from petrochemicals, making the green movement we had discussed when talking about the Honoré des Prés fragrances a while ago all the more Parisian and fashion-savvy.
With Mediterranean inspiration behind them, I can't wait to try them out!

Available from March '09.

Pic via Jalougallery

Insolence Eau Glacee: another new flanker by Guerlain

Guerlain is certainly busy this spring! After La Petite Robe Noire, launching this February, two limited edition bottles for Shalimar, Shalimar Flower/Fleurs de Shalimar for March and an aqueous interpretation for the classic peachy chypre Mitsouko in the upcoming Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus coming this April, another flanker joins the line: Insolence Eau Glacée. The name is echoing another version of the well-known and beloved classic Vétiver by Guerlain, Vétiver Eau Glacée.

The new version Insolence Eau Glacée promises: "Tasty and fresh aromas of green apple sorbet and luminous citruses which give a feeling of ultimate refreshment. Joyful and encouraging accords of red berries tingle your imagination with luxurious and elegant iris flowers, resting on velvety and gentle violet petals. Accentuated freshness in this composition arouses all senses and affects your emotions and good mood directly". Available from March 2009 in 50ml bottles in the same design as the original Insolence. (via press release)

The Insolence brand is comprised of 5 editions so far, including the upcoming one. In chronological order they are: Insolence eau de toilette (2006), My Insolence eau de toilette (2007), Insolence Shimmering edition (2007), Insolence Eau de Parfum (2008) and the new Insolence Eau Glacée (March 2009).

*Sigh* We'll see...

Breaking News: Mythique, the upcoming fragrance from ParfumsDelRae

We're pleased to be on the vanguard of new developments and to bring you news you haven't heard of before. Just as DelRae Roth was busy promoting the fifth addition to her classy line of fragrances by Michel Roudnitska, Emotionelle (a composition featuring melon, that is in the spirit of Le Parfum de Therese), we learn that a sixth addition is being completed and is launching this coming April: Mythique!

Mythique is indeed the newest fragrance to join Parfums Del Rae, created by young perfumer Yann Vasnier in collaboration with Roth DelRae and the first to be composed by anyone other than Michel Roudnitska. The whole DelRae line is simply fabulous in quality and myself I had been quite ecstatic in my review of the delicate sylphid that is the lily-of-the-valley-laden Debut, so my anticipation is high!
The inspiration of the newest fragrance, which is described by Roth as a diaphanous and elegant floral is historically inspired by a most celebrated personage: the famous courtesan Diane de Poitiers, an important figure for king Francis I and the 20 years senior lover of French king Henri II ~consequently the arch-rival of both Anne de Pisseleu, Francis's favourite, and Caterina de Medici, Henri's legal wife (and incidentally the woman who brought fine perfumery in France).

Roth was impressed by this very charismatic woman, Diane ~her beauty, her intelligence, her political astuteness and her strong character that was also compassionate inspired her to envision a feminine fragrance that would stand for those qualities.
The basic accord of Parfums DelRae Mythique is based on precious Florentine orris butter coupled with flowers found in the garden of the beautiful Château de Chenonceau, the truly spectacular castle on the Loire River valley that was offered to Diane by Henri II and remained her home until the king's death.

Mythique begins on fresh notes of Italian bergamot, mandarin and ivy while in the heart accords of jasmine Sambac, peony and Florentine iris conspire for a softened, sfumato effect. The base is played on sensuous notes of sandalwood, Indian patchouli and ambrette seeds.

Launching this coming April.

Painting Diane of Poitiers by Francois Clouet via wikipedia. Pic of bottle through Extrait.

New Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus and Shalimar Flower: what's happening at Guerlain? (and a footnote on Muguet)

As if La Petite Robe Noire, on which we had reported and commented at length on these pages a little while ago (here is the link if you missed it), wasn't enough, Guerlain is issuing this coming spring a couple of flankers that have me wondering a bit about what exactly is happening in the venerable house that I so love. In the interests of reportage and juicy commentary however, let me plunge into more details, nevertheless.

First there are two flankers: on the iconic Shalimar and the newly re-issued Eau de Shalimar. They are tagged "Flower" and if that reminds you of Kenzo with all that powder which is also a trait of the classic Shalimar, then I can't blame you! It's uncertain if they are merely limited edition bottles (it seems so) or if they also entail rejinging of the jus for a new scent; and I would welcome official corroboration on that score.

Eau de Shalimar Flower in Eau de Toilette and Shalimar Flower in Eau de Parfum concentrations are limited edition versions of the legendary Shalimar, "created to celebrate the most bewitching and sensual note of the classic fragrance: vanilla blossom. Protective of its own rarity, it only blossoms for a few hours at sunrise. In awe of this quiet, intimate moment with vanilla flowers Guerlain set out to capture a second of eternity, etching its blossoms on the Shalimar bottle for two limited editions.[...]The vanilla blossom on the voluptuous neck of the bottle underscores the perfume’s intensity, then appears in a precious, radiant hallmark - first in midnight blue on the glass of the bottle, then in gold on the packaging which shields its mysterious blossoming from observation". [1]

If it entails a new scent formula, it would be a little ironic than in a category which Guerlain literally lain the path on with their bare hands (ie. that of good, delectable vanilla) they feel the need to bring out a flanker that sounds like it is playing with something that is a redundancy. There is already the darkly boozy Spiritueuse Double Vanille in their line, which recently joined the permanent collection due to public demand, and Shalimar highlights vanilla pretty well in both the classic version (no matter how tampered it might be with through the years) and in Eau de Shalimar where it goes for the more lemon-cupcakes-accord. Wouldn't the talents of Thierry Wasser ~who had such fond memories of his fathers' driving gloves as to quote them as a constant inspiration in an interview which appeared at the time he was appointed in-house perfumer for Guerlain~ better be used elsewhere, if so?
If, on the other hand, it is only a matter of specially-made bottles (and it is hinted from the above that it could as per my "reading" of it) which will circulate for rekindling the desire for Shalimar, why are they necessary at a time when the new commercials with Natalia Vodianova have already brought Shalimar in the limelight and the eye of a younger crowd who could be easily seduced to try a proper perfume like this through this fashionable and tastefully done Paolo Roversi campaign? Wasn't it enough? Wouldn't all that energy, budget and talent be employed in a new fragrance that could become a new classic?

Anyway, until we make sure, here are the shopping details:
Shalimar Flower Eau de Parfum 75ml retailing for $123, available in March through Guerlain boutiques exclusively.
Eau de Shalimar Flower Eau de Toilette 75ml retailing for $97, available in March through Guerlain boutiques exclusively.

The news on a Mitsouko flanker however are slightly more alarming: Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus (Lotus Flower) is definitely a new fragrance with a different scent, as the info states "In celebration of the 90th anniversary of its creation, Jean Paul Guerlain has developed Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus, a fresh reinterpretation of the fragrance with a special fleur de lotus note". [2]

Two things strike me as odd: First, isn't it a little sacrilegious to rejingle Mitsouko of all things? Since the original is already rather unrecognisable because of the -necessary alas!- reworking of the formula in order to meet with the standards recommended by the IFRA regulations on oakmoss and allergens, isn't this attempt to provide an aqueaous* note rather antithetical with the rich character of this legendary fruity chypre which is exactly so celebrated because of it? The light blue bottle doesn't bode well with me personally (blue so often means a screetchy ozonic on the perfume counters...) However since Vol de Nuit Evasion was completely unrelated to the older classic oriental Vol de Nuit smell-wise, and utterly lovely in its own right, I am very willing to believe that we might have a similar case here with Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus.
[*The lotus flower "note" -a reconstitution (?) since no natural is extracted usually- is one of the materials which are used in order to render watery notes and was very popular in the perfumery of the 1990s. Watch out, those acqueous notes are in for a big return: you heard it here first!]
Secondly, it's a little odd that Jean Paul Guerlain is still referenced as the creator of new juice. I realise that some creative control still applies and his approval is asked, naturally ~it's only good manners and courtesy to his illustrious history and lineage after all~ but what happened to Thierry Wasser and Sylvaine Delacourte? Aren't they at the head of fragrance development? Now that we're at it, La Petite Robe Noire is credited to Sylvaine and Delphine Jelk, I hear [3]. Again, what about Thierry? I hope official info becomes available on those pressing points and when they do I will announce them and comment on them with more informed views.

Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus Eau de Toilette 60ml/2oz will be available in May retailing for $100

And for those who have been hankering after the customary issue of Guerlain Muguet on the 1st of May (lily of the valley/muguet is the traditional flower to be offered for May 1st in France and Guerlain had issued limited editions in the past to honour that) , this year's edition includes jasmine, Turkish rose, lemon and sandalwood in a 60ml/2oz flacon retailing for $350, available in May through Guerlain boutiques exclusively.
Now that hydroxycitronellal and Lilial are heavily restricted I wonder how they will be able to render an intense lily of the valley note (something that is also a pressing concern for the latest Diorissimo batches), but that remains to be seen, I guess. The price however has relaxed a tiny bit, as the 2007 edition was $285 for only 30ml/1oz in a Bacarrat bottle!

We will return...

Painting Ancient of Days by William Blake
[1][2][3]info & pic via Beautyalchemist.

Monolithe Travel Sprays for By Kilian fragrances: at long last!

If you have been one of those people who have been enamored with some or all of the By Kilian fragrances (such as the wonderful rosy jamminess of Liaisons Dangereuses or the less intriguing Cruel Intentions, reviewed on these pages), but annoyed by the concept of the super-luxe box under lock & key and the inability to buy the available refills without first investing in the whole kaboodle of the expensive presentation, you will be thrilled.

Perfume Shrine is bringing you the welcome news that Cognac heir Kilian Hennessy's By Kilian brand will be introducing a travel purse spray, called Monolithe, in spring '09, designed with the familiar Achilles' Shield design which is the signature of L'Oeuvre Noire (ie.the first lineup of By Kilian fragrances in black packaging and noir-ish intent). The design is, well, monolithic, I guess, in its columnal glory with some textural interest.
Refillable, Monolithe travel spray will be available for filling with 4 refills of 7.5ml/0.4oz each in Prelude to Love, Love, Beyond Love or Liaisons Dangereuses . Availability and price: 95 Euros, starting March wherever By Kilian scents are sold (like Aedes for example).
Considering that the usual standard price of the By Kilian line is US$225 for a 50ml/1.7oz bottle and $115 for a 50ml/1.7oz refill or ~if you want to have a constant source~ $2,500 for the small "barells" of perfume), it sounds like a more approachable solution for many perfume lovers, even if ml per ml it is not so economical. Rejoice!

News & pic via Magali Bertin vogue.fr