Pong de Paris & Medieval London

A documentary series by the BBC Two called "Filthy Cities" tackles two of the most infamously "stinky" of European cities from the past (today they're not so fragrant either): Paris and London. A history lesson and some olfactory adventurous research as well, guided by historian Dan Snow with some impressive CGI scenes. The London episode is presented in its entirety below.





And if you think you could brave it, watch a poor human specimen test on camera the scratch & sniff cards for the show, available in any library in the UK courtesy of the BBC.
In many ways reminiscent of the atmosphere of "Perfume, Story of a Murderer", only this is no fiction....

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower: fragrance review

Carnal Flower by Frédérick Malle alludes to the perception of tuberoses as flowers of "spiritual ruin"; at one point in time they were actually thought to provoce an instant orgasm to the fair maidens who might smell them!! Imagine the prudish customs of yesterdays challenged by that thought....In reality, Frédérick Malle seeking to author a white floral (no line is complete without it), visited California, where both surroundings and ladies exude scents of gardenia and tuberose apparently. But Malle is also Louis Malle's, the famous film director's, nephew, and therefore related to actress Candice Bergen, Malle's wife from 1980 till his death in 1995.

Inspirations
Candice Bergen, a Californian by birth, despite the "cool ice princess" facade proved how there is fire and passion beneath it, both in her personal choices and -relevantly to our discussion- in one memorable film, Carnal Knowledge by Mike Nichols in 1971. As Susan, shagged by Jack Nicholson and shared (and eventually married to) Art Garfunkel, the safer bet of two wandering males, she gives a bleak and blunt portrayal of the inherent mortality of romance and the decaying beauty of sex. The young Frédérick Malle had thus one part of the illustrious concept of his fragrance down pat! Carnal Flower it would be and the star would be a man-eating flower.

Composition
The rest was masterful orchestration: Composed by Dominique Ropion, renowned creator of the wonderful Ysatis by Givenchy , the horrifically flamboyant and attention-grabbing Amarige by the same designer and the controversial Une Fleur de Cassie for Malle again (no mean feat, its strong animalic base acting as a conversation piece among the brave), the new fragrance on the sketching board naturally presented an olfactory challenge as tuberose is one of those smells that can be heavenly or hellish, no in-betweens : the orchestration and interpretation is all that matters. A flair for the intense on the recipients' part is also mandatory , it would seem....

Perufmery Tuberoses: Where does Carnal Flower Stand?
The history of tuberose in perfumery passes through that parfum phare as the French say (a "lighthouse perfume", a landmark more like it): Fracas, conceived by the fauvist Germaine Cellier for Robert Piguet, with its fleshy, lush contradicting qualities edged upon the two extremes: creamy, candy-ish beauty and violent hystrionics leading to decay. Blonde by Versace is its poorer , aspiring -and rather successful- imitator with a flamboyant style that is very Italian, a civet come-hither innuendo and quite pleasant in calculated moderation especially in extrait de parfum. Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle presents a peculiar problem : one has to wait for the crucial first 15 minutes, when the demonic camphor note subsides, giving reign to the glorious creaminess and silky softness of the flower. Caron's Tubereuse is very radiant , yet perfume-y although lighter and not suited to today's sensibilities, I find. Carolina Herrera (the original one by the famous designer) is a bit too operatic, being so much infused with another bombshell : jasmine. Some of the rest (Lauder's Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and Do Son by Diptyque) are either more positioned towards gardenia or too light for carnal aspirations. Vamp a NY by Honore des Pres is more candied than that and with a generous helping of pink jasmine, although equally magnificent. Tuberose perfumes are a real continent: there are variations in the verdure to suit everyone.
Carnal Flower was from the beginning a mission into offering something different.

Scent Profile
Studying the odor of the real living blossom, which is apparently everywhere in California, the quintessentially French company Editions des Parfum Frédéric Malle has managed to capture the air of a tropical garden at dusk, full of the breeze and the richness of the dangerously seductive blossoms inside the austere looking bottles of Carnal Flower. Malle himself was encouraging Ropion to go the extra mile, per their official info, while the concept was in the cards from the very beginning, going into speed dial when Ropion was introduced to a new "corrected" absolute de tubereuse: Americans love tuberose flowers. Hence the addition of a coconut note and strong salicylates with musks, boosted with orange blossom absolute, all familiar apertures, which channel a warm and inviting quality. But they also want a seemingly fresh scent, something that will titillate the nostrils and the mind. The camphor note, reminiscent of eycalyptus leaves, is a necessity: At once freeing the weight of the inherent indolic character of the blossom, which browns as it decays, and imitating the exhalation of tuberose in nature: greenish and somewhat mentholic from afar.  Yet the mentholated note does not make a grand appearence in Carnal Flower like it does in Tubéreuse Criminelle: the composition is therefore less striking, arguably less thought-provoking, but more wearable by more people as a result. Not a jarring note in sight; even the fruitier notes, like coconut and melon, are interspersed through sleight of hand to evoke freshness and sensuousness. Like Candice Bergen, it's beautiful, but then again, not without wits or substance, and although undeniably sensual and sexy, it is high class and a lady, not a slut, at all times. (For slut, if you choose, you can resort to Musc Ravageur by the same niche perfume company)

The development of Carnal Flower is smooth, into a heart of pure tuberose absolute with a sweet coconut-like facet (like Coppertone suntan lotion, another California reference) and solar salicylates (a natural pheromone of blossoms that aids pollination), without great changes throughout its drydown. The amount of tuberose absolute used is the greatest in use in all current perfumery: any more of this and you might burst! The initial opulence remains intact while after some minutes a slightly bitter-sweet, rubbery quality ascends to the surface, a natural effect of the real flower. It should be advised not to overdo the application because of this element. As it weaves its magic though, it never becomes cloying, but it does seem to steal the scene and all the best lines audible from several paces away. Carnal Flower is loud enough to be a classic-in-the-making.

If you're among those who find the fragrance overwhelming (and it can be), the exquisite Beurre Exquis in Carnal Flower (a body butter infused with the gorgeous smell of the fragrance) might be a lighter, subtler option for you with decent sillage and lasting power. Highly recommended and worth the monetary outlay.

Notes for F.Malle Carnal Flower:
Top: bergamot, melon, camphor
Heart: tuberose absolute, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orange blossom
Base: tuberose basolute, coconut, white musk



pic of Candice Bergen via youlookfiine.wordpress.com

IFRA 46th Amendment is Out

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has officially issued the 46^th Amendment to the IFRA Code of Practice as part of the industry's ongoing safety program*.
There are six new restrictive Standards based on the Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA)** and one new Standard prohibiting the use of 2,4-Octadienal.
IFRA has also withdrawn the Standard for Vanillin, which was first put in place with the 44^th Amendment. This Standard was put on hold on 1^st December, 2009, has now been officially withdrawn. Following the Vanillin Standard's notification additional information was submitted, which allowed for a re-evaluation of the material. After further additional testing and a critical evaluation of all available data today, IFRA has decided to withdraw the Standard and not set a revised Standard.
IFRA has also updated various guidance documents as part of the 46^th Amendment.

• QRA Information Booklet Version 6.0 Final 2011 (including guidance on classes for IFRA Certificates)
• Annex 1 to the IFRA Standards which has been updated with contributions from other sources for o-Methoxycinnamaldehyde and Safranal
• Index (list of all IFRA Standards)
• Standard Operating Procedures (SOP) for the implementation of IFRA Standards

All the new Standards and related guidance documents are freely available on the IFRA website: http://www.ifraorg.org
1.    Six new Standards, based on the QRA

CAS             Name                                      Status
                                                            
    7492-44-6     alpha-Butylcinnamaldehyde                   
    39189-74-7    2-Heptylidene cyclopentan-1-one                  NEW
    1504-74-1     o-Methoxycinnamaldehyde                       RESTRICTED
    68922-13-4    3-Methyl-2-(pentyloxy)cyclopent-2-en-1-one      (QRA)
    13257-44-8    2-Nonyn-1-al dimethyl acetal
    13144-88-2    1-(2,4,4,5,5-Pentamethyl-1-cyclopenten-1-yl)
                  ethan-1-one

2.    One new Standard prohibiting the use of 2,4-Octadienal

2,4-Octadienal has been reviewed by the RIFM Expert Panel and, due to lack of adequate data (Dermal DNA Adduct study), it was concluded that it should not be used as or in fragrance ingredients in whatever application until additional data is available and considered sufficient to support its use. The presence of a structural alert as defined in the Human Health Criteria Document justifies this ban which already concerns several materials of the same structural family.

CAS           Name                     Status

    30361-28-5    2,4-Octadienal            PROHIBITED

How the whole thing works, for those who missed our previous posts on the subject of perfumery ingredients restrictions:
The fragrance industry's safety program is founded on testing fragrance materials and either establishing 'Safe Use Levels', or prohibiting their use, based on studying their potential effects on people and the environment. Currently the safety program contains 186 'Standards', which restrict, or prohibit, the use of selected fragrance materials.
To ensure that the fragrance industry adheres to its safety standards the International Fragrance
Association (IFRA) has a Compliance Program. Every year 50 products from a selection of 450, gathered from stores in 10 different countries, are tested. If a product does not comply with its Code of Practice and Standards, IFRA works with the manufacturer to ensure compliance.
The IFRA Code of Practice is a comprehensive document that supports the IFRA commitment to provide products that are safe for use by the consumer and to the environment.
The Code of Practice applies to the manufacture and handling of all fragrance materials, for all types of applications and contains the full set of IFRA Standards. Abiding by the IFRA Code of Practice is a prerequisite for all fragrance supplier companies that are members of IFRA (either directly or through national associations). The majority of client companies (including producers of toiletries and household products) expect their fragrances to comply with IFRA Standards as set out in the Code.
The IFRA Code of Practice is distributed worldwide and is in the hands of all member associations and their member companies, in addition to governmental regulatory bodies and many other stakeholders. It is also available to all on our website: http://www.ifraorg.org

**Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA)

In 2005 IFRA introduced a new Quantitative Risk Assessment or QRA approach to restrict fragrance materials that have a potential to induce contact sensitization. This new approach is a much more refined approach for evaluating sensitizing materials, and so provides more precise guidance on use levels of materials depending on the situation and the product in which they are used; ultimately it should better protect the consumer from becoming sensitized to a specific material.

SOURCE: The International Fragrance Association (IFRA), Brussels 27th June 2011

Beauty & the Beach, The Fragrance Edition: Beachy Scents for Varied Tastes

It's enough to think about the beach and a dip in the ocean to have a hankering for that particular ambience which involves not only the tactile feelings of cool spray and sugar-spun sands, we're so familiar with, but also a scentscape of the mind. The remembrance of those scents that enhance our exprerience, be it in swimming lazily off the costa del Sol in the Spanish Riviera or plunging one's self oh-so-carefully in the vastly wild waters of eastern Australia, keeps us going even in the dead of winter. The aromas that comprise this scentscape however are varied, depending as much on the particular circustances of the place and time, as of our own preference for the elements that compliment it, such as peripheral activities (sipping those Pina Coladas in Miami Beach and oiling up with monoi in Hawaii).

the Sarakino beach on Milos, Greece

Generally speaking however in fine fragrance "beachy scents" have formed enough of a niche to form their own unofficial category. Usually they involve accords reminiscent of suntan lotion with the unmistakable hint of coconuts and/or aquatic notes (marine/ozonic or just "watery"), but they can also bypass the actual elements of just the beach and expand into tropical florals (gardenia, tiare and tuberose mostly, with the occasional pikake/sampaquita inclusion) or the fruity cocktails served at the beach-bar.
Other times in this category we could lump sweet, ambery scents that reprise the "skin baked in the sun scent" of a good holiday on a sunshide basking country, or the salty, ocean-dipped smell of a body that has dried up with the salt still on it. Sometimes, they can even be inspired by the driftwood found in beaches across the world, more abstract, poised between "wet" and woody, producing interesting combinations. Local cosmetic products in tropical parts also provide inspiration for "notes" in fine fragrance, the most famous being monoi.

Monoi, in its authentic state, is simply tiare (Tahitian gardenia) macerated in coconut oil; a viscous, gorgeous oil that is supremely nutritious to skin. Both Nars and The Body Shop make their own version, although the authentic product can be easily got at tropical islands at drugstores and souvenir shops.
For the purposes of this guide of scent to take with you on a beach holiday, I divided them into categories of evocation. 

the Vai beach at Preveli, Crete, Greece

THE SUNTAN LOTION BRIGADE

Dissecting the "suntan lotion accord" we come up with two categories: the Coppertone inspired ones (more coconutty) and the Ambre Solaire ones (more floral), the latter rich in salicylates which naturally occur in the flowers of the tropics and which are referenced often as "solar notes". Both of these are skin scents, but they can vary in intensity. Here are some of the best examples.

Bobbi Brown Beach
An authentic experience of sunny mood, straight suntan oil smell, melting in the sun, relaxed and a small subfacet of sea mist mingling in the air and a hint of jasmine. Guilty pleasure in the winter, and a no brainer for summer holidays.

Bond No. 9 Fire Island
Immediately recognised as the scent of Ambre Solaire , beloved of Euro-sunscreen using people at the Riviera, Capri and Mykonos, Fire Island fragrance encapsulates the pleasing aroma of warm sand and warm skin.

Estee Lauder Azuree Soleil & Bronze Goddess
Inspired a frenzy when it launched as a body oil spray as the anchor of the Tom Ford Azuree collection, it also featured subsequently an Eau Fraiche Skinscent version. Azuree Soleil was discontinued when the contract with Tom Ford was over and substituted with Bronze Goddess. Beware, the new 2011 edition of Bronze Godess Soleil is a different fragrance (read our comparison).

Guerlain Terracota Eau Sous Le Vent
A specialized body mist which moisturizes the skin while enhancing its color (via Tan Booster complex), but it also lightly perfumes the skin with Tiare flower. Another one of the suntan lotion type scents with decent sillage.

CB I Hate Perfume At the Beach 1966 
Old school Coppertone never had it so good in an alcohol formula, and the addition of a "North Atlantic" accord by Christopher Brosius makes this a cult favourite among perfume enthusiasts.

TROPICAL EMISSIONS CAVALIERS

Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Abricot
The addition of vanilla and sugar sweetens the already sweet, fruity aromata of papaya and apricot. It's cuddly and soft and a perennial best-seller in the line.

Guerlain Terracota Voile d'été
This solar fragrance by Guerlain is composed out of the combustible notes of spicy carnation fanned on salicylate-rich ylang ylang. It smells succulent, while non fruity or particularly sweet and is an underrated marvel. 

Escada Pacific Paradise
Part of the limited edition summer fragrances by German brand Escada, Pacific Paradise wasn't surypy, nor was it sanitized. The fruity floral core kept a bit of balance between sweetness and dryness, resulting in a pleasant offering.

Moneyette Monyette Paris 
Decidedly tropical, rather heavy smelling floral and warm fragrance with a coconut-amber base, it comes in oil form and was especially popular with young Hollywood a few years back.

Chios island, Greece

WARM, BISCUIT-COLOURED, SAND DUNES & SKIN

Lancaster Aquasun 
Not to be confused with "Sunwater" (to which the name amounts anyway!), this is a warm amber evoking caramel-hued sands, as if seeing them from an helicopter flying above the Sahara desert, dunes forming and rippling at the gusts of wind. Wonderful for winter-wear as well.


Dior Dune & Dune pour Homme
A clever construction (more smoky oriental than "marine":  bitterish interplay between the tarriness of lichen ~alongside the distinct bracken feel of broom~ with the sweeter oriental elements of the base. Dune is a marvellous, diaphanous oriental and unique! Also credible in the men's version, which is less orientalised.

Prada L'Eau Ambrée
The refreshing top, cypress-like and with a micro-facet of white flower progressed to sweet, slightly salty sweat musk in Prada's L'Eau Ambrée; not a tetrapod's raunchy howl, but the smell of seashore in spring and the bodies that lie down on its fluffy texture.

Ava Luxe Johri
A unisex fragrance that smiles through slightly sweet, slightly coconutty elements, producing a delightful skin scent.

Greek seascape in the Aegean sea

OCEAN SPRAY & SEA SALT SERVED RIGHT UP

CB I Hate Perfume Monsieur Hulot's Holiday
Commentably not sharp, it incorporates a hint of algae into the sea breeze proceedings and a trace of leather, like carrying an old suitcase on some Mediterranean adventure.

Ava Luxe The Beach
Like its programmatic name suggests, salt-air-and-ocean-and-driftwood.

Hermès Eau de Merveilles 
One of the few feminine fragrances devoid of floral notes, this is a harmony built on woody notes, an abstract orange top, salty skin  and a saline effect; very easy to wear on whatever occasion. It wears beautifully and lasts very long, like the most delicious imperceptible aura. Its Eau de Parfum counterpart, Elixir des Merveilles, is more orangey and chyprish, great for winter as well.

Heeley Sel Marin
A salty fragrance with backbone and a true niche offering. 

Christiane Celle Calypso Marine
More in line with what "marine" came to mean: sharpish, aqueous, with a good dosage of ozonic notes for good effect, but not eye-watering in this case. 

beach at Elafonissos at Southerneast Peloponnese, Greece

DRIFTWOOD BOG WATER AMBIENCE


Comptoir Sud Pacifique Aqua Motu 
Aqua Motu is the steady best-selling eau de toilette in Europe since its release in 1995. What's the secret? It recreates perfectly that shore-ambience blend of marine views, warm sands, kelp and a hint of lily of the valley. A very credible "beachy scent".

The Different Company Sel de Vetiver
Inspired by exactly what its name suggests, a glass of vetiver water, letting the salty nuance of the Eastern grass permeate the liquid, it's refreshing and sophisticated.

Andree Putman Preparation Parfumee
The quintessence of a large body of water, a little bit left to its own devices, driftwood coming down the stream, a hint of decay.


DSquared2 Ocean Wet Woods
Take the woody goodness of the original Dsquared2 Wood He and splash it with ocean spay. You're there!

the Myrtos beach, Cephalonia, Greece

COLOURFUL UMBRELLA-DECORATED COCKTAILS
 
Creed Virgin Island Water

Lime and coconut and tequila with sticky tanginess that last well throughout the day. Even fit for work, when you're feeling that boredom setting in at the beginning of yet another week at office months away from your paid leave.

Guerlain Homme L'Eau
Referencing the refreshing recipe of Mojito cocktail, this minty cologne is fresh enough for casual summer wear and not totally predictable, although it lacks the backbone of a proper Guerlain. 

JLo Miami Glow
A sweet, heady mix of fruits (passion fruit with its erotic undertone, blackcurrant with its slightly sour whiff) blended with musk, warm amber and sweet vanilla. Latina-inspired and quite good for a celebrity fragrance.

Do you have other favourite beachy fragrances? Let us know in the comments.

Color Trends Stimulate Perfumers in the Creation of New & Different Fragrances, Study Shows

We have long suspected it. In fact we have even devoted a whole essay with empirical data to support the case on how colour plays a big role when choosing scent. But now research comes to confirm it, even though it reads much like promotion for a company promoting top-to-bottom colour & fragrance design.

"A comprehensive study from the fragrance company Arylessence says that our sense of sight and smell are closely linked and work together to help consumers make buying decisions. Color trends stimulate perfumers in the creation of new and different fragrances, the study says, and the distinctive colors of a product and its packaging set expectations among consumers about how the product should smell. Conducted among female consumers in Atlanta, the study demonstrated that people can describe the 'scent' of selected colors, and typically use the same words to describe the scent's emotional effect.
'Traditionally, perfumers have depended on the product itself for creative inspiration – or on how products in a category should be perceived,' says Arylessence President Steve Tanner. 'Our research shows that color works even more effectively to shape consumer expectations, and that the colors of a product and its packaging translate into winning fragrances that reflect the power of the whole brand.'

Don't let me catch you decanting that powerful leather juice into a bottle with pink frou frou or that sweet girly gourmand into a smooth sand-blasted aluminum can...

Chris Sheldrake: "I taught a little bit of English to the perfumers and a retired perfumer taught me a little bit about perfume"

Sheldrake didn't intend to be a perfumer when he was young. He wanted to be an architect. His father thought he should learn a European language before he started his architectural studies so Sheldrake took a three-month work-experience job at Charabot, a fragrance company in the south of France.

''I taught a little bit of English to the perfumers and a retired perfumer taught me a little bit about perfume. After about three months, he said, 'I think you've got a nose. Would you like to stay?' So I stayed another three months, then another six months, then two years, then three years and architecture was the past.'' Sheldrake worked at another fragrance company, Robertet, before going to Chanel in Paris and working with Polge in the early 1980s. He left after ''three fantastic years'' for more experience at global perfume manufacturer Quest International. He has fond memories of creating a rosy, fruity fragrance for a Unilever shampoo called Lux Super Rich when he was in Japan. ''It was probably the biggest-selling perfume [product] for Quest at the time,'' he says.

Thus reminisces Christopher Sheldrake, perfumer known for his work at Serge Lutens perfumes and currently head of research & development at Chanel fragrances, a propos the upcoming Chanel No.19 Poudre. Please refer to our previous quotes from Sheldrake on the new Chanel flanker and our announcement on Chanel No.19 Poudre. More on how Christ Sheldrake works and views industry "bedroom scent" demands on this link.

Read the entire article at Smh.com.au

pic via knackweekend

Andy Tauer Discusses His New Pentachords Line

Instead of posting the info and press release on the new Pentachords line by Andy Tauer of Tauer Perfumes (If you're an avid reader of this blog, he needs no introduction), I decided in building up to my reviews of them coming shortly to direct you to a video in which he talks about them himself. Courtesy of Tauer's blog and Extrait.it, here is the link.  and the video (in English with Italian text). Enjoy and à très bientôt!

The winner of the draw...

...for the Bal a Versailles bottle is Demetra. Congratulations and please email me, using the Profile or About page contact, with your data, so I can have this out in the mail for you soon.

Thanks everyone for the enthusiastic participation and till the next one!

Valentina de Valentino: new fragrance

Renowned perfumers Olivier Cresp and Alberto Morillas are behind the new Valentina de Valentino fragrance for women, launching in September 2011.

The fragrance is conceived to be "seductive and sophisticated, removed from conventions, charismatic". The scent of Valentina de Valentino follows the Italian floral oriental (floriental) style where every note reveals a paradox.
Calabrian bergamot is joined by white truffles from Alba. Jasmine, orange blossom from Amalfi and tuberose offer their radiant floral beauty, with touches of strawberry, woods (cedar especially) and a final note of amber.

The photographic campaign by David Sims sees Freja Beha Erichsen shot in a deserted Rome at night-time. The packaging revisits the ideas of Valentino couture, especially the pastel colours of the past three collections; femininity, audacity and sobriety.

Valentina de Valentino will be available in a complete range of products:
* Valentina Eau de Parfum Vaporisateur 30 ml, 50 ml et 80 ml.
* Valentina Lait Satiné pour le Corps Flacon 200 ml.
* Valentina Gel Douche Velouté Flacon 200 ml.
* Valentina Huile Soyeuse pour le Corps 100 ml.
* Valentina Déodorant Parfumé Spray 100 ml.

Amouage Honour Woman & Honour Man: fragrance reviews

I distinctly recall watching Cio-Cio San ritualistically commit suicide with her father's knife at the end scene of Madama Butterfly and thinking that despite the glorious music, the storyline lacked the tragic depths of Euripides's Medea, fresh in my mind from school. It was more simplistic too: one straight plot line, girl wins boy, girl loses boy, girl commits hara kiri. Surely, both heroines were cruelly abandonded by their foreign lovers for whom they sacrificed everything, but somehow taking one's life seemed to my childish eyes as an easy way out; eternally pining for the grave sin of filicide, uniting both tragic lovers & parents in pain, seemed vastly more weighty. But the Japanese notion of honour wanted it so and further exploration of Japonism acclimatized me with the idea in the end. Honour Woman and Honour Man, fragrances inspired ~as Christopher Chong revealed~ by the ending act of Puccini's Madama Butterfly, come as a stop at a multifarious course.

The prolific art director for Omani-based firm Amouage, C. Chong, is issuing perfume duos for some time now, having the best noses creating under his guidance: From the majestic Jubilation 25 for women and Jubilation XXV for men to the sweeping Epic for Men and Epic for Women, the rich fragrances have lured lovers of true luxury and superb raw materials creating something of a mini cult. Even when the skeleton is recognisable as belonging to a specific category met again, the fleshing out of the robust contours is impressive enough to warrant uniqueness.

In order to assess both Honour editions, it's essential to examine how they interpret the concept: Instead of playing out the scenario of Puccini's heroes in one's mind, it might be better to see the scents as a modern extention of a viewer who sees their shadows cast in the wings; oriental elements petering, but those are not reserved for the Far East, they also draw upon the Middle-Eastern tradition: incense, elemi resin, jasmine, the Spice Route, pepper worth its weight in gold and finally Indian tuberose...This amalgam of richness is woven into a tapestry that is not reminiscent of any one culture, yet stands on the edge between ancient, rich in resins & flower essences natural perfumery and the modern ethereal treatment that ensures fragrances remain contemporary as if fueled by electrified air.
Both Honour Woman and Honour Man are typically Amouage in their individual way, showcasing what natural oils can do to instil richness and depth in fragrance, possessing as they do a sort of 3D-expansion which reveals facets interlocking with each other in an olfactory Rubik's Cube.

Amouage Honour Woman, created by perfumers Alexandra Carlin and Violaine Collas, is galvanised by the power of pink jasmine, fruity, succulent and nectarous as if oozing sexy honey, floriental, womanly and seductive and yet light enough to be enjoyed during the summer. The bouquet reminded me of a less campy Vamp à NY, chokeful as that one is too of real, vibrant natural white flowers, hints of big Bazooka gum pieces laced with banana-fruit facets. Smelling Honour Woman on top, I'm struck by the swift progression from the peppery-camphoraceous green note which foreshadows tuberose (in reality spicy notes and that certain subtle root-beer touch which is so familiar to Americans) into the intensely sweet, fruity and upbeat jasmine heart that is all out nature red in tooth and claw. The white floral essences stimulate Honour Woman into a melodious cadenza that seems never ending, supremely lasting onto blotter, clothes, nostrils, soft skin, decolletage...And yet, the supporting of that floral sweetness by somber notes like green vetiver and serene incense makes Honour Woman a pliable, real femme who can yield under the power of love, rather than an hysterical madwoman who scatters her demands right and left. The success and beauty of Amouage Honour Woman lie in the balance of diva-esque characteristcs with the cool attitude of seeing the brightest morning light as the most natural thing in the world...which it is.

Notes for Amouage Honour Woman:
Top notes are coriander, pepper and rhuburb;
middle notes are carnation, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose and lily-of-the-valley;
base notes are vetiver, opoponax, amber, incense and leather.

Amouage Honour Man, composed by perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer is a decidedly spicy fragrance, with oriental-woody leanings. The intensity of its spicy top, a veritable plunge into the pepper shaker, is unsettling, grabbing you from both lapels and smacking down into submission. But oh, you want to discover what this tough story unfolds later on! Indeed, the pepper becomes almost oily, like the half smoky-half musty odour when you crack a mace, more than a tad resinous, thanks to elemi (a naturally pepper-like essence that compliments frankincense and enters into the blend of Eastern cencer incense mixes). The equally terpenic sides of this mix are soon embraced by the distinct green-rosy-camphor of geranium and blended woody notes of cedar, patchouli and vetiver, borrowing a slice of Amouage's Reflection. The cunning in Honour Man lies into presenting each note as a distinct pitch with sonorous timbre, yet also as unifying them into a chromatic scale that is heard like bass coming out from subwoofers in the larynx of some smoldering lion afar, coming closer and closer by the minute. In no way threatening, but impressive all the same, Honour Man should have lovers of Poivre Samarcande, Bang and Poivre 23 sniff appreciatively and try to unravel the complicated thread of its Eastern mythos for western men.

Notes for Amouage Honour Man:
Top notes are pink pepper and pepper;
middle notes are geranium, elemi and nutmeg;
base notes are vetiver, musk, patchouli, Virginia cedar, incense and tonka bean.

Eau de Parfum, 50ml for £120. Available at Harrods, Selfridges, Les Scenteurs and Amouage boutique, 14 Lowndes Street, SW1. Soon available stateside.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Amouage fragrance reviews and news

In the interests of full disclosure I tried the new scents via official samples sent by the company

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Vitalisant, Apaisant, Exaltant: History & Fragrance Reviews

It's easy to lose track in the Guerlain portfolio: The vastness, scope and sheer volume of perfume produced is astounding, stirring the imagination of every serious perfume collector. Amidst it, some fragrances came and went in a blink: literally! This mainly happened in that moment in time when Guerlain was passing from firm, paternal care hands (i.e. Jean Paul Guerlain's) to luxury market behemoth accountants (i.e. LVMH) during the late 1990s and early 2000s. Aroma Allegoria, a trio spin on the bottle design and concept of the comparable Aqua Allegoria line by Guerlain (fragrances to introduce a new kind of customer to the house), was launched at that time-frame (2002), resulting in a bit of lost compass moment: The directors at the helm felt that the emerging market for "natural", "green" and "aromatherapeutic" was the new trend ahead (and that much was true), so they tried to reconcile that notion with the Guerlain perfume spirit. The experiment was short-lived, and by nature -no pun intended- not entirely successful, but not without some merit, as we will see in our short guide & reviews of the three Guerlain fragrances produced: Aroma Allegoria Vitalisant, Aroma Allegoria Apaisant and Aroma Allegoria Exaltant.

The ad copy went something like this: "For the first time, Jean-Paul Guerlain takes the aromachology path by launching three fragrances built around natural ingredients, which are selected for their soothing or stimulating properties. Although these Aroma Allegoria are beneficial for the mind, in the purest tradition of the House, they are genuine perfumes that are based on original accords. Aroma Vitalisant unveils tea and saffron notes for a stimulating effect. In Aroma Exaltant, cinnamon and cedarwood bring warmth and sensuality. In Aroma Apaisant, lime, chamomile and freesia bring serenity and well-being. The bottles, decorated with golden strings are smaller versions of the Aqua bottles".

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Aromaparfum Vitalisant (Vitalizing) was launched in 2002 and belongs to the aromatic citrus family of fragrance. Top notes are citruses, bergamot and green notes; middle notes are tea, jasmine and peach; base notes are saffron and woodsy notes. Despite the freshness promised, the impression gathered is a rather camphoraceous, medicinal hesperide, like if the central accord of Shalimar went stale in an attic room where old sweaters are kept: It's hard to see how the customer who disliked that effect in the classic Shalimar (where the effect is very soon upscaled by the delicious opoponax and vanilla underpinnings) would opt for such treatment in this fragrance. The addition of milky and saffron-spicy notes adds creaminess and great lasting power, but also an allusion to food, which might also further alienate the customer who seeks a refreshing, upbeat experience, lured by the vitalizing tagline. If so, Herba Fresca in the Aqua Allegoria line or one of the excellent citrusy (or not) Eaux de Cologne offered by the house accomplish more with less.

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Aromaparfum Exaltant (Exalting) was launched in 2002 and belongs in the woody oriental family of fragrances.  Top notes are bergamot, cypress, cinnamon and bitter orange; middle notes are virginia cedar, neroli, cardamom and coriander; base notes are vanilla, tonka bean, pepper and sandalwood. Easily the most typically and recognizably Guerlain in the triptych, Exaltant is delicious like a Christmas pudding consumed by the flicker of candles or a log-fire; creamy, lightly almondy, with a wonderful spicy top (fused with Arabian-like spices like cardamom and coriander, laced with a peppery warmth). I distinctly recall that trying it out at the counter, it was immediately my favourite out of the three and in fact I was contemplating of investing in it, at one moment. However I never did. If gifted with it, I would gladly wear it, nevertheless.

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Aromaparfum Apaisant (Appeasing/Soothing) was launched in 2002 and belongs in the floral family of fragrances. Top notes are freesia and wormwood; middle notes are lime (linden) blossom, mimosa, chamomile and ylang-ylang; base note is vanilla. By its very concept a quiet, soft, child-like fragrance, full of the innocence and tenderness of linden honey, Apaisant is not very floral, in fact it has a softly gourmand touch, thanks to the mimosa (reading a bit like fluffy almonds and honeyed sugar) but remains true to its intended goal: soothing tenseness and providing a buoyant refuge from the stress of every day. I could best picture it as a linear bedtime fragrance, a luxury for one's self rather than a daytime fragrance to meet the world in.


All fragrances in the Aroma Allegoria line are credited to perfumer Jean Paul Guerlain (although only one recalls his style of composition, the Exaltant one) and are long discontinued. They make sporadic appearances on auction sites, although I'm not sure the prices asked are warranted.

pic via delo blog

Trish McEvoy Black Rose Oud: new fragrance

Trish McEvoy adds to her existing line of fragrances (which includes cult scents like No.9) with a perfume inspired by the Arab tradition of combining roses with oud/aloeswood, Black Rose Oud. 

"Inspired by a mood of pure glamour, experience the newest addition to Trish McEvoy's Fragrance Wardrobe. A heart of prized Black Baccara Rose and precious Oud oils surrounded by vibrant florals, exotic spices and sensual woods—Trish's captivating marriage of the raw with the cultivated, the familiar and the far-away creates a provocative feeling of déjà vu." [ed.note: Huh??]
1.7 oz. of Eau de Parfum concentration retails for $185

Available for pre-order at Nordstorm.