Who is issuing the 1005th flanker for 2009? None other than Guerlain, of course! Habit Rouge Armoiries was first introduced in 2006, as a limited edition for men and is re-issued in a flacon with an engraving on the glass in 18ct gold bearing the old logo of Guerlain. The name Armoiries means "coat of arms" and denotes the aristocratic pedigree which has always been evoked by Habit Rouge (The Red Jacket is the traditional garment to don while fox-hunting, a British sport of the aristocracy and royalty for centuries).The masculine composition belongs in the woody spicy family of fragrances and includes notes of lime, orange, bergamot, neroli, cinnamon, cedar, leather, vanilla, oud (agarwood/aloeswood), patchouli and amber. Collectors should probably take note: Habit Rouge Armoiries was created in limited supply ~only 454 numbered flacons, each containing 240ml. Exclusively available at Guerlain boutiques.
As if La Petite Robe Noire, on which we had reported and commented at length on these pages a little while ago (here is the link if you missed it), wasn't enough, Guerlain is issuing this coming spring a couple of flankers that have me wondering a bit about what exactly is happening in the venerable house that I so love. In the interests of reportage and juicy commentary however, let me plunge into more details, nevertheless.
First there are two flankers: on the iconic Shalimar and the newly re-issued Eau de Shalimar. They are tagged "Flower" and if that reminds you of Kenzo with all that powder which is also a trait of the classic Shalimar, then I can't blame you! It's uncertain if they are merely limited edition bottles (it seems so) or if they also entail rejinging of the jus for a new scent; and I would welcome official corroboration on that score.
Eau de Shalimar Flower in Eau de Toilette and Shalimar Flower in Eau de Parfum concentrations are limited edition versions of the legendary Shalimar, "created to celebrate the most bewitching and sensual note of the classic fragrance: vanilla blossom. Protective of its own rarity, it only blossoms for a few hours at sunrise. In awe of this quiet, intimate moment with vanilla flowers Guerlain set out to capture a second of eternity, etching its blossoms on the Shalimar bottle for two limited editions.[...]The vanilla blossom on the voluptuous neck of the bottle underscores the perfume’s intensity, then appears in a precious, radiant hallmark - first in midnight blue on the glass of the bottle, then in gold on the packaging which shields its mysterious blossoming from observation". [1]
If it entails a new scent formula, it would be a little ironic than in a category which Guerlain literally lain the path on with their bare hands (ie. that of good, delectable vanilla) they feel the need to bring out a flanker that sounds like it is playing with something that is a redundancy. There is already the darkly boozy Spiritueuse Double Vanille in their line, which recently joined the permanent collection due to public demand, and Shalimar highlights vanilla pretty well in both the classic version (no matter how tampered it might be with through the years) and in Eau de Shalimar where it goes for the more lemon-cupcakes-accord. Wouldn't the talents of Thierry Wasser ~who had such fond memories of his fathers' driving gloves as to quote them as a constant inspiration in an interview which appeared at the time he was appointed in-house perfumer for Guerlain~ better be used elsewhere, if so? If, on the other hand, it is only a matter of specially-made bottles (and it is hinted from the above that it could as per my "reading" of it) which will circulate for rekindling the desire for Shalimar, why are they necessary at a time when the new commercials with Natalia Vodianova have already brought Shalimar in the limelight and the eye of a younger crowd who could be easily seduced to try a proper perfume like this through this fashionable and tastefully done Paolo Roversi campaign? Wasn't it enough? Wouldn't all that energy, budget and talent be employed in a new fragrance that could become a new classic?
Anyway, until we make sure, here are the shopping details: Shalimar Flower Eau de Parfum 75ml retailing for $123, available in March through Guerlain boutiques exclusively. Eau de Shalimar Flower Eau de Toilette 75ml retailing for $97, available in March through Guerlain boutiques exclusively.
The news on a Mitsouko flanker however are slightly more alarming: Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus (Lotus Flower) is definitely a new fragrance with a different scent, as the info states "In celebration of the 90th anniversary of its creation, Jean Paul Guerlain has developed Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus, a fresh reinterpretation of the fragrance with a special fleur de lotus note". [2]
Two things strike me as odd: First, isn't it a little sacrilegious to rejingle Mitsouko of all things? Since the original is already rather unrecognisable because of the -necessary alas!- reworking of the formula in order to meet with the standards recommended by the IFRA regulations on oakmoss and allergens, isn't this attempt to provide an aqueaous* note rather antithetical with the rich character of this legendary fruity chypre which is exactly so celebrated because of it? The light blue bottle doesn't bode well with me personally (blue so often means a screetchy ozonic on the perfume counters...) However since Vol de Nuit Evasion was completely unrelated to the older classic oriental Vol de Nuitsmell-wise, and utterly lovely in its own right, I am very willing to believe that we might have a similar case here with Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus. [*The lotus flower "note" -a reconstitution (?) since no natural is extracted usually- is one of the materials which are used in order to render watery notes and was very popular in the perfumery of the 1990s. Watch out, those acqueous notes are in for a big return: you heard it here first!] Secondly, it's a little odd that Jean Paul Guerlain is still referenced as the creator of new juice. I realise that some creative control still applies and his approval is asked, naturally ~it's only good manners and courtesy to his illustrious history and lineage after all~ but what happened to Thierry Wasser and Sylvaine Delacourte? Aren't they at the head of fragrance development? Now that we're at it, La Petite Robe Noireis credited to Sylvaine and Delphine Jelk, I hear [3]. Again, what about Thierry? I hope official info becomes available on those pressing points and when they do I will announce them and comment on them with more informed views.
Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus Eau de Toilette 60ml/2oz will be available in May retailing for $100
And for those who have been hankering after the customary issue of Guerlain Muguet on the 1st of May (lily of the valley/muguet is the traditional flower to be offered for May 1st in France and Guerlain had issued limited editions in the past to honour that) , this year's edition includes jasmine, Turkish rose, lemon and sandalwood in a 60ml/2oz flacon retailing for $350, available in May through Guerlain boutiques exclusively. Now that hydroxycitronellal and Lilial are heavily restricted I wonder how they will be able to render an intense lily of the valley note (something that is also a pressing concern for the latest Diorissimo batches), but that remains to be seen, I guess. The price however has relaxed a tiny bit, as the 2007 edition was $285 for only 30ml/1oz in a Bacarrat bottle!
We will return...
Painting Ancient of Days by William Blake [1][2][3]info & pic via Beautyalchemist.
In times of recession one would think that manufacturers and perfume companies would cut back and offer more economical solutions to lure in customers and retain their market share. However, as the -admittedly strange and inconvenient- economic rule for getting out of such as phase is basically continuing to spend (so as to boost the market and keep companies afloat), the practice of luxury brands to actually raise their prices and issue super-expensive products instead is macroeconomically sane but in the short term a little absurd. Yet it happens! And the latest example is brought here today for your appraisal.
The Clarins Group which holds the licence for parfums Thierry Mugler has just issued a very unusual and expensive edition that is aimed at true-blue collectors of fine fragrance with their newAlien Golden Giant Excess: The limited edition holds 1 liter (Whoah! talking about Godzilla size!) in a flacon decorated with real gold and Swarovski crystals! (click the pic, it's really impressive) The juice inside the bottle remains as usual, an "extraterrestrial" mix of jasmine sambac from India, blonde woods and white musks in Eau de Parfum concentration. Thierry Mugler launched Alien in 2005 in a formula devised dy Dominique Ropion and Laurent Bruyere and is considered successful in turnover terms. The price of the Alien Golden Giant Excess is 2000 euros. (Now please gather your jaw from the floor).
This comes on the heels of another limited edition for Alien, the Initiatory Stone which is available as a limited edition of 15ml Eau de Parfum from January 2009 in a bottle cut like an amethyst gem, a carrier of natural energy, topped by a gold cap, symbolising solar power. The scent is once again completely unchanged.
The two limited editions come as a follow up of the spring-summer'08 Alien Eau Luminescente, which was taking the solar theme into an interpretation in warm packaging hues. Seems like the various editions keep a brand alive and kicking, creating buzz even in difficult times!
Mûre et Musc, the emblem fragrance of L’Artisan Parfumeur is 30 years old this year. To celebrate the anniversary, L’Artisan Parfumeur created its first Extrait de Parfum/Pure Perfume, Mûre et Musc Extrait and a special Limited Edition for Christmas. Created by Bertrand Duchaufour, Mûre et Musc Extrait de Parfumtakes this most essence-heavy and intimate of fragrance concentrations and interprets the bestselling classic Mûre et Musc by using the finest, most exceptional raw materials. Extrait highlights the fruity, musky perfume of blackberries warmed in the sun, sensual and enveloping. With the radiant sparkle of its top notes, the extract creates an effect of freshness with citrus fruits (kumquat, bergamot) and aromatic notes lead by basil. Spicy notes (pink and black pepper) strengthen its contrast and add to its enchantment. The heart has the fruity note of the blackberry dressed with more heady floral notes, of Turkish rose essential oil and iris absolute, which add richness and femininity. The base of patchouli and oakmoss are the signature of this typical chypre harmony. The smooth and velvety leather note with a hint of vanilla, brings distinction, the elegance of the extract and even more femininity.
The extract is presented in a 15 ml/0.5oz bottle with the seven symbolic facets of L’Artisan Parfumeur and a cap made of zamac finely engraved with the coat of arms. It comes in its own box of subtle warm gold and black and purple lacquers. A 15 ml refill comes with this special bottle. This winter, for its anniversary, limited edition bottles of Mûre et Musc get dressed in wild and wonderful blackberry. Mûre et Musc Extrême does the same: the bottles are dressed for the occasion! Finely engraved blackberries ornate every facet, dark purple lacquer creates a stunning effect of light and shadow. Subtle shades of purple lacquer and warm gold illuminate the packaging. Another new addition this Christmas, this time for the home fragrance collection, is Necessaire à Parfumer la Lingerie: a set of sachets and lingerie bags. A trademark elegant black L’Artisan Parfumeur case with three drawers contains four perfumed cushions and two lingerie bags. The materials used for the collection come from the best addresses of Paris : ribbons from Mokuba, fabrics from Lelièvreinto … The designs play with geometric forms, mix croquets, flounces, laces and satin in gold, bronze, silver and grey colors, timeless but also recalling the spirit of Fall/Winter 2008-2009 fashion. Also available as Petit Necessaire à Parfumer la Lingerie, a set of two scented cushions.
Available at L'Artisan Parfumeur Boutique: 1100 Madison Avenue New-York, NY, 10028 T (212) 794 3600 F (212) 794 6241
Guerlain has been challenging us to show just how serious of a perfume nut we are for some time now: it feels that if we don't mortgage our house or sell our first born's kidneys to the black market we're not quite up there in strategic placement in the galaxy of collectors. The 180th anniversary of Guerlain has brought its own slurge of limited edition collector's items from Les Quatre Saisons coffret to these new and much more "frugal" (enter sarcasm) commodities.
According to serious (and sane) Guerlain collector's reportage Monsieur Guerlain: "A leather case with 18 of the house's emblematic perfumes, created from 1828 to nowadays: Eau de Cologne Impériale, Jicky, L’Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Shalimar, Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Nahema, Samsara, L’Instant de Guerlain, L’Instant de Guerlain pour Homme, Cologne du 68, Rose Barbare, Cuir Beluga, Angélique Noire, Bois d’Arménie, Iris Ganache and Insolence". Price is 2500€ (the equivalent of 3,531$ or so) which begs the question: since all of these are readily available in much lower prices, why not make one's own coffret (there are lovely leather cases in antique shops which would give a retro feel to the whole thing)? This is something I'd like to see explained in a rational way.
Also there is the second re-edition of Jacques Guerlain's Parfum des Champs-Élysées, after its brief 1995 re-issue: a leathery floral chypre originally launched in 1904 and then in a "turtle bottle" in 1914 as a celebration of the opening of Guerlain's new boutique at Avenue des Champs-Élysées and completely unrelated to the mid-90s Champs-Élysées in its mimosa-laden floralcy. This specific re-issue comes in the original Baccarat crystal "turtle bottle"(conceived by architect Charles Mewes to denote the "slowness" of works but also to suggest that one could "climb on its back and be transported to paradise"), gold label and silk cord seal encased in a red and gold box adding to the luxury stakes. Only 24 bottles will circulate from October 15th for the modest amount of 10.000€ (or 13,807) each. I'm taking two as we speak!!
News brought to my attention thanks to Elysium. Pic courtesy of athinorama.
Was this my life, or did I dream it? That seemingly rhetorical question might drive one crazy given sufficient circumstances. After all, isn't all life, "is all we see and seem but a dream within a dream?" like Poe used to say. Or as the ancient Greeks poetically put it: "οναρ σκιας ανθρωπος" (man is but a shadow's dream).
My thoughts revert to these aphorisms, as I converge Opium by Yves Saint Laurent and Sergio Leone's swansong masterpiece,Once upon a time in America in my mind.My proclivities to the fragrance being a given and my fondness for that final enigmatic scene in which De Niro is beatifically smiling through the somnolent haze of opium vapors, it was natural to be so; if only because, like the drug, Opium is to be worn lying down. Pilgrimage was sorely lacking till now and the Gods have been accusing me of hubris for too long.
History of YSL Opium Perfume
Yves Saint Laurent was at the zenith of his career when he envisioned a decadent, baroque perfume evoking the exotic Orient: "It will be the greatest perfume of them all and we will call it Opium", he said, perhaps with a sideways wink to his own path to hallucinogenics' addiction. The year when the concept was conceived was 1972. It would take another 5 years for it to come to fruition.
The scent was composed by Jean Louis Sieuzac (Sonia Rykiel, Dune, the re-issue of Madame Rochas) in 1977 and art-directed by Chantal Roos, while the vermilion flacon was designed by Pierre Dinand.
Originally the name that Squibb, the American parent company of parfums Saint Laurent, wanted to christen the fragrance was Black Orchid, the same that Tom Ford later grabbed almost 30 years later for his own foray into perfume for what he hoped to be an equally controversial landmark.
Opium was in many ways a landmark: Its fragrance although tracing its lineage to great orientals of the past such as Shalimar, Habanita, Youth Dew and even Tabu (with its carnation-civet accord of "parfum de puta"), was perhaps the first to enter into the floriental category, with its very much detectable carnation, orange blossom and ylang-ylang among the plush of effulgent spice and starched resins, of which oppoponax stars. But also due to the fact that it broke with the previous trends of independent chypres and soft aldehydics, bringing back the orientals which had been forgotten since their last stint during the 20s and 30s and thus inaugurating the fashions for them again, resulting in everyone producing one from Coco, Poison, Ysatis, Boucheron Femme , all the way to Loulou.
Its launch party, at a junk in Manhattan's East River, with orientalised canopies and matching decor, marked the first time such opulence was applied to a fragrance's issue and ignited a series of mega-launches that were to become de rigeur. Its campaign, provocatively proclaiming "for those addicted to Yves Saint Laurent", earned it serious controversy in certain countries: A peanut-growing premier in Queensland, Australia had the perfume banned in his state. The US Federal Justice Department tried to outlaw it. In other countries due to drug import laws it had to be imported under a pseudonym, like contraband, and relabelled within the country.Its subsequent status of a bestseller proved that all the obstacles were within its stride and that man (and woman) is really a creature desiring what seems unattainable.
Bottle Design: the Oriental Inro
The bottle has a no less interesting tale surrounding it. According to Dinand's autobiography, he was working on a stylized inro, the small wooden box samurais carry on their belts, full of little drawers where herbs, spices and opium for alleviating the pain from their wounds are kept. The little drawers are held together by strings (hence the resulting tassel on the Opium bottle) and the top is crowned with a sculpted ball, called netsuke, replicated in the cap. "That's it!" said Saint Laurent, as soon as he saw it and fixed his mind on calling it Opium, the rest being history. The advertising had always been titillating, starting with sprawled Jerry Hall, progressing to an unknown red-head (pictured above), through to Kate Moss and Sophie Dahl infamously in the nude (therefore banned but you can see it by clicking the link). Currently Malgosia Bela fronts the ad prints.
Lauder had been secretly working on their own spicy oriental, mysteriously also in a vermilion bottle, named after a mercury mineral found in China and smelling close to Opium,Cinnabar, which launched only weeks later. Yet they never had such commercial success with it, a fact that is treated with silence when you point it out to them. Whether there had been some form of trade espionage has never been proven and is only a figment of speculation.
Scent Description
Baptising yourself in Opium amounts to owning a droplet of the Styx, imparting invulnerability, shunning your combination sinners -- your lecherous liars and your miserly drunkards -- who dishonor the vices and bring them into bad repute. It speaks the tongue of angels through the wiles of devils, fanning its brocade-like resins over your humble existence, marring the opulent flowers and the bright citruses (bergamot, lemon and the orange-tinged essence of coriander) by a contaminated hand of animalistic sin. I can't distinguish any of its constituent parts separately, as they merge into a tremendously forceful message of abandon and escapism from the vagaries of life. Was it my life or did I dream it?
The iron-pressed linen note of the aldehydes in the beginning gives off -coupled with the spicy bite of the carnation accord- a rather "clean" veneer, which allows Opium the distinction of being among the easiest orientals to carry without feeling all soiled underneath your dress. The plumminess is closly interwoven with the balsams in the drydown phase, when the fragrance has dried on the skin and only its whispered message remains; quite woods, trickly resins like benzoin, labdanum and opoponax with an animalic darkness to them from the small footnote of pungent, bitter castoreum in the far end.
Opium never fails to bring forth compliments every single time I wear it and it is the robe de guerre on every occasion where ample backbone is required or a new acquaintance is going to take place. People never identify it as such and always ask what is that magnificent fragrance emanating. Sometimes it's perversely fun to see faces fall when I reveal the true identity, other times it only makes me think long and hard about over saturation of a particular scent in the collective unconscious and the detriment that brings to a whole generation who formed bad associations through it being ubiquitous.
Opium Summer Editions and Comparison of Concentrations My preferred form is the Eau de toilette, which highlights the spicy bite and the moribund balsams perfectly, although the extrait de parfum is another excellent choice. The Secret de Parfum which had circulated at some point during the early 90s in a cut-out bottle from hard plastic in a hue darker than the original flacon was a concentration that turned me off Eau de Parfum (to which it amounted) . Luckily that error in judgment on the part of YSL Parfums has been amended and the current version of Eau de Parfum is merely denser and more opaque, although still true to the scent. The body products in the range are some of the best I have tried in terms of both fidelity to the scent (they have a slightly pronounced orange note which is very agreeable) and texture which melts under your caress. Men have also been catered for through a men's version that is woodier and more aromatic but also rather spicy, Opium pour homme. As a faithful Opium wearer for years I can attest to it being relatively the same despite possible reformulation. If eugenol however becomes seriously restricted -as has been discussed- then it would risk severe disfigurement. {edit to add, June 2010: Alas, it has...}
In later years, many lighter summer versions launched, as limited editions, aiming at making Opium fit for summer-wear and largely succeeding: Summer Fragrance (2002), Eau d'Eté(2004), Fleur de Shanghai(2005), Fleur Impériale(2006),Orchidée de Chine(2007),Poésie de Chine (2008). My personal favourite is Fleur de Shangai among them, replicated closely in the latest version. This trend might have started by the non-limited, non-alcoholic Opium Fraicheur d'Orient, which got issued for summer in the mid-90s and which introduced a note from Angel and an intense citrus into the composition, to no particular pleasure derived. A limited edition bottle is Opium Orient Extreme from 2007, which only changes the exterior, not the scent. Various collector's bottles and versions will continue to get made. As long as it captures the imagination of perfume worshippers at its altar. Notes: Top: aldehydes,plum,pepper, tangerine, coriander,bergamot, lemon Heart: clove, jasmine, cinnamon, rose, peach, orris, myrrh, ylang ylang Base: benzoin, patchouli, oppoponax, cedar, sandalwood, labdanum, castoreum, musk, vanilla
2008 marks the 180th anniversary of Guerlain, as we had noted a short while ago : It was Pierre François Pascal Guerlain who opened his first shop in Rue de Rivoli in Paris in 1828. Therefore, to celebrate this landmark on May 15th 2008 a limited box-set of four different perfumes representing the four seasons by Jean Paul Guerlain will launch: Eau de Toilette Muguet de Printemps, Eau de Parfum Quand Vient l'Été, Eau de Parfum Brume d'Automne and Eau de Toilette Winter Delice.
Brume d'Automne (=autumnal mists) is a new creation, an aromatic, floral woody with bay rose, coriander, rosemary, ylang-ylang, absinthe, sandal wood and vetiver rhizome. The rest are re-issues of previous limited editions.
The fragrances will be presented in a black leather box in 35 ml crystal Baccarat 'heart shaped stopper' bottles. Each bottle is engraved by hand with a small drawing, illustrating each season. With only 85 copies made and a price of 2500€, this release is targeted towards the serious collector!
We will occupy ourselves with recent Guerlain launches such as Cruel Gardenia shortly!
Some things are taken for granted. Well, they shouldn't be! One of them is that Baby Doll by Yves Saint Laurent was a separate, individual creation. Or so I thought, till very recently. I am sure most of you did as well. Not so! Leafing through the new Perfumes The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez I came across the statement that Baby Doll started its arguably adolescent career as a flanker* to Paris, also by Yves Saint Laurent. I was a bit dubious to that and mailed the authors to clarify and they confirmed that it is indeed so. In the beginning it was called Baby Doll Paris and the box with "Paris" in the same typeface as the original Paris fragrance and similarly designed and hued bottle do have a passing resemblance to the classic rosey fragrance Paris by nose Sophia Grojsman. Who would have thought? It didn't help that Baby Doll has slowly but surely accumulated a whole clique of flankers itself. I did a little research: From Baby Doll Light (predictably) to Baby Doll Lucky Game (which is lighter by all accounts and less sweet);
through Baby Doll Angel Bleu (which is a twisted kind of name, confusing it with other fragrances which bear those monikers) to the latest limited edition of minis in all the colours of chewing gum, er, the rainbow. And counting...
A flanker with flankers. Now, that's a sad thought indeed!
*Flanker is perfume-speak for a new fragrance that launches on the tail of a successful one by the same house, utilizing the same name with a slight variation/addition and design of the packaging, to capitalize on the previous success.
Next: a surprise review! Stay tuned!
Pic of Baby Doll Paris with box from Ebay, of Baby Doll Angel Bleu from Ebay, of Baby Doll Lucky Game from MUA, of Baby Doll minis from Sephora.
Several significant fragrance anniversaries are scattered through 2008: the House of Guerlain’s 180th year (to mark which a new men’s scent is in the works), L’Air du Temps’ 60th and the 30th for several other classic scents: Polo, Mûre et Musc and Azzaro pour Homme.
Personally I am very intrigued with what Guerlain might further do for the occassion: being my favourite house and with a revamped image in the last few years, sourcing through their back catalogue, I am eager for more! In the meantime, Guerlain is launching a limited edition of its best-seller for men, Habit Rouge, this spring. Named Habit de Metal , it is a collectible presented in a metallic-red lacquered flask, in a silvery package. The scent remains the same gorgeous powdery oriental. The Eau de toilette comes in 3.4 oz/100ml and retails for €70.
For the holidays of 2008, Nina Ricci will issue a prestigious collector’s edition for the powdery floral L'air du temps: a duo in “day and night” Lalique crystal. The set will comprise two bottles of extrait de parfum; one a pale, opalescent crystal, the other a shiny black. The set will be presented in a round jewel box with a black satin ribbon that will come in only 1,382 numbered sets for the entire world. The Lalique crystal extrait de parfum bottles will contain ¼ fl. oz. each and will retail at €227. {info through Osmoz}
Check back later for an opinion article.
Pic of Nina Ricci ad from the 70s courtesy of Parfums de pub
Perfume Shrine worships at the altar of Opium. I am saying this in case some of you, dear readers, have not been aware of the fact yet (doubtful). So any news concerning the object of the Shrine's adoration is welcome and worth mentioning. So this September, Yves Saint Laurent is launching Opium Orient Extrême.This will be a luxurious collectible version encased in a sumptuous "vessel", inspired by traditional Chinese art. Of course the oriental theme has always been strong with Opium, from the flowers that form its lush heart to the exotic spices at its base to the bottle that is inspired by the traditional samurai inro. And what is more Opium has been one of the precious few fragrances that have been lucky enough to have gorgeous renditions of themselves in limited editions and summer versions that trully do not betray its glory. More than I can say for so many other scents.
The new object d'art will be a refillable spray bottle (with 75ml/2.6 oz. eau de toilette refill) retaining the heavenly aroma of classic Opium fragrance with top notes of mandarin orange, bergamot and lily-of-the-valley; a heart of jasmine, carnation and spices; and base notes of vanilla, amber, opoponax and patchouli. Elegantly lacquered in black with flowers over it, the box will be illuminated with gold and bistre floral motifs reminiscent of those on the Emperor and Empress’s of China embroidered robes and adorned with a black tassel. The refillable eau de toilette rests on satin inside, in black and gold. 75ml/2.6oz of Opium Orient Extrême will cost 119 €, available at major department stores The limited edition is brought out in only 10000 pieces, however. Sign up!
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Who is issuing the 1005th flanker for 2009? None other than Guerlain, of course! Habit Rouge Armoiries was first introduced in 2006, as a limited edition for men and is re-issued in a flacon with an engraving on the glass in 18ct gold bearing the old logo of Guerlain. The name Armoiries means "coat of arms" and denotes the aristocratic pedigree which has always been evoked by Habit Rouge (The Red Jacket is the traditional garment to don while fox-hunting, a British sport of the aristocracy and royalty for centuries).The masculine composition belongs in the woody spicy family of fragrances and includes notes of lime, orange, bergamot, neroli, cinnamon, cedar, leather, vanilla, oud (agarwood/aloeswood), patchouli and amber. Collectors should probably take note: Habit Rouge Armoiries was created in limited supply ~only 454 numbered flacons, each containing 240ml.
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