L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc: fragrance review

Berries are an especially pliant fruity note in perfumes; no less because a certain group of synthetic musks has a berry undertone. The classic Mûre et Musc by L'Artisan Parfumeur paved the way in as early as 1978. The passionfruit focus of Escada's own Chiffon Sorbet didn't come out of the blue either: Guerlain's Nahéma (1978) brought a saturated fruity mantle to the central rose lending sonorous timbre. 

 

The idea for using this fruit in fragrance was conceived by Jean Laporte, the founder of the small niche brand of the pioneering group of artisan perfumers of the 1970s, L'Artisan Parfumeur. His little wonder of innovation from 1978, Mûre et Musc, still seduces its audience just as much over 40 years later. Discreet and gentle, Mûre et Musc was almost hippy-ish in its innocent naivety. The fresh tanginess of citrus (comprised of lemon, orange, and mandarin with a hint of spicy basil) complements the blackberry, enhancing the sweetish trail with a musky base note that lingers for a very long time on skin and on clothes.

Flanked with raspberry ketone, blackcurrant bud, and Galaxolide (a clean smelling musk), this structure would be simple, direct, innocent, sweetish, and tart in equal degrees, and captivating to those harboring the same memories in their heart of hearts! He succeeded with Mure et Musc, a huge cult phenomenon which gave rise to a constellation of berry musks that took the market by storm and formed the springboard for many young girls to jump into the realm of fine fragrance.

But why did it become so special in people's minds that even drugstores came to order their own blackberry-musk mix for their not-especially sophisticated clientele? "Its cottony-fruity notes that melt flawlessly to the skin. It's a close-to-the-skin perfume, which brings people in," to quote Jean-Claude Ellena who oversaw the commemorative editions that reprised the theme decades later for the, now owned by a conglomerate, L'Artisan Parfumeur. The original's cute innocence and come-hither subtlety still beguile the young at heart.

 

 

L'artisan Parfumeur celebrates its 30th anniversary with Special Editions

Mûre et Musc, the emblem fragrance of L’Artisan Parfumeur is 30 years old this year. To celebrate the anniversary, L’Artisan Parfumeur created its first Extrait de Parfum/Pure Perfume, Mûre et Musc Extrait and a special Limited Edition for Christmas.

Created by Bertrand Duchaufour, Mûre et Musc Extrait de Parfum takes this most essence-heavy and intimate of fragrance concentrations and interprets the bestselling classic Mûre et Musc by using the finest, most exceptional raw materials.
Extrait highlights the fruity, musky perfume of blackberries warmed in the sun, sensual and enveloping. With the radiant sparkle of its top notes, the extract creates an effect of freshness with citrus fruits (kumquat, bergamot) and aromatic notes lead by basil. Spicy notes (pink and black pepper) strengthen its contrast and add to its enchantment. The heart has the fruity note of the blackberry dressed with more heady floral notes, of Turkish rose essential oil and iris absolute, which add richness and femininity. The base of patchouli and oakmoss are the signature of this typical chypre harmony. The smooth and velvety leather note with a hint of vanilla, brings distinction, the elegance of the extract and even more femininity.

The extract is presented in a 15 ml/0.5oz bottle with the seven symbolic facets of L’Artisan Parfumeur and a cap made of zamac finely engraved with the coat of arms. It comes in its own box of subtle warm gold and black and purple lacquers. A 15 ml refill comes with this special bottle.

This winter, for its anniversary, limited edition bottles of Mûre et Musc get dressed in wild and wonderful blackberry. Mûre et Musc Extrême does the same: the bottles are dressed for the occasion! Finely engraved blackberries ornate every facet, dark purple lacquer creates a stunning effect of light and shadow. Subtle shades of purple lacquer and warm gold illuminate the packaging.

Another new addition this Christmas, this time for the home fragrance collection, is Necessaire à Parfumer la Lingerie: a set of sachets and lingerie bags. A trademark elegant black L’Artisan Parfumeur case with three drawers contains four perfumed cushions and two lingerie bags. The materials used for the collection come from the best addresses of Paris : ribbons from Mokuba, fabrics from Lelièvreinto … The designs play with geometric forms, mix croquets, flounces, laces and satin in gold, bronze, silver and grey colors, timeless but also recalling the spirit of Fall/Winter 2008-2009 fashion. Also available as Petit Necessaire à Parfumer la Lingerie, a set of two scented cushions.

Available at L'Artisan Parfumeur Boutique:
1100 Madison Avenue
New-York, NY, 10028
T (212) 794 3600
F (212) 794 6241

Info & pics via press release

2008 fragrance anniversaries

Several significant fragrance anniversaries are scattered through 2008: the House of Guerlain’s 180th year (to mark which a new men’s scent is in the works), L’Air du Temps’ 60th and the 30th for several other classic scents: Polo, Mûre et Musc and Azzaro pour Homme.

Personally I am very intrigued with what Guerlain might further do for the occassion: being my favourite house and with a revamped image in the last few years, sourcing through their back catalogue, I am eager for more! In the meantime, Guerlain is launching a limited edition of its best-seller for men, Habit Rouge, this spring. Named Habit de Metal , it is a collectible presented in a metallic-red lacquered flask, in a silvery package. The scent remains the same gorgeous powdery oriental. The Eau de toilette comes in 3.4 oz/100ml and retails for €70.


For the holidays of 2008, Nina Ricci will issue a prestigious collector’s edition for the powdery floral L'air du temps: a duo in “day and night” Lalique crystal. The set will comprise two bottles of extrait de parfum; one a pale, opalescent crystal, the other a shiny black. The set will be presented in a round jewel box with a black satin ribbon that will come in only 1,382 numbered sets for the entire world. The Lalique crystal extrait de parfum bottles will contain ¼ fl. oz. each and will retail at €227. {info through Osmoz}

Check back later for an opinion article.

Pic of Nina Ricci ad from the 70s courtesy of Parfums de pub