Guerlain Muguet 2014 and Guerlain News: Terracotta Le Parfum, reissues & discontinuations

Every May 1st, the Guerlain clientele can wear that year's limited edition of Guerlain Muguet which celebrates the "good luck" charm that lily of the valley stands for. The tradition of re-issuing the Muguet (i.e. Lily of the Valley) perfume dates from 2006 and you can find an article with the history and the bottles of the different annual edition of Guerlain Muguet on this link.

via elle.fr

This year Guerlain appealed to ceramist Brigitte de Bazelaire (associated with Porcelaines de la Fabrique who manufacture Limoges china since 1825). The process requires a double "baking" at more than 1000 degrees Centigrade.
The white biscuit porcelain container contains a bee bottle with a white bow and pale green liquid inside. The design reprises the style of Les Parisiennes, the boutique line sold at boutiques and espaces Guerlain. The scent is a realistic lily of the valley soliflore with additional notes of jasmine, bergamot and rose. The 2014 Guerlain Muguet edition is presented in 1872 numbered bottles internationally sold for 400 euros for 125ml, available from May 1st and for only a few days.

via elle.fr

There also other news for Guerlain maniacs:
First of all a discontinuation, though I'm expecting it won't go down with too much wailing: Guerlain L'Homme Eau (2010) is discontinued, a rumor which was originally reported on Mr.Guerlain's page and officially confirmed by Guerlain. Available therefore only while stocks last.

But there is also a reissue: Idylle Duet Rose Patchouli (from 2011), a flanker to the original Idylle, more info on which you can read on the linked article

Last but not least, Terracota le Parfum is a limited edition to celebrate 30 years of Terracotta products which have made the reputation of Guerlain makeup to the widths of the globe. This is a solar fragrance (reminiscent of summer via its salicylates allusions, not different than the effect in Terracotta Voile d'Ete  most probably) and you can see a linked picture of the bottle on Instagram.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Haute Voltige, Rapelle-toi, Onde Sensuelle: three new fragrances in Explosion d'Emotions

L'Artisan Parfumeur continues to harness the creative powers of perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour who adds to the line Explosion d'Emotions with three new fragrances: Haute Voltige (acrobatics), Rapelle-toi (remember!) and Onde Sensuelle (sensual wave). They form the Collection Detonante (the detonating collection) packaged in bright fuchsia.

The press release describes them in rapturous tones and I quote:

Haute Voltige

capture the exuberance

True excitement. Feel the goose bumps on your skin

as an intense joy takes over. This is an Eau de Parfum with an expansive and extroverted personality: where

a generous floral peony note meets with the unexpected fruitiness of pomegranate.

An explosion of joy.

Rapelle-toi

feel the beauty inside

Silence as a door to our inner thoughts. A contemplative fragrance, anchored in the stillness of our surroundings. With its mesmerising opulence, gardenia evokes this quiet introspection, enlivened with fresh vibrating notes of Sichuan pepper. This magnificent flower is enhanced with musks and smooth sandalwood with honey accents.

A beautiful transcendence.

Onde Sensuelle

the ache of desire

An insatiable, voracious desire is felt like a deep force, surging under the skin. A wave of sensuality washes over you. This Eau de Parfum is a work in contrasts, between a burning spicy bouquet of ginger, saffron and cumin, and the icy crispness of juniper berries and cardamom.

It recreates the sensation, and tension of this urge.

A captivating wave of passion.

The fragrances are presented in Eau de Parfum bottles of 125ml and are set to launch in early May 2014. 

Parfumerie Generale Isparta 26: new fragrance

“Rose is sent to earth by the gardeners of paradise for empowering the mind and the eye of the spirit.”
~Rumi

Such must have been the thoughts of perfumer Pierre Guillaume who chose the summery rose of Isparta, in the Anatolian plateau, in Turkey, to infuse his latest fragrance offering, offered in the midst of this harsh winter. Poised between chypre and oriental, the new opus is tagged Isparta 26 and incorporates mysterious resins and an animalic base over the sweet lightly spicy floralcy of the prized Isparta rose.

Fragrance notes for Parfumerie Generale Isparta 26 : Red Berries , Rose of Summer Isparta , Balsam of Peru , Calamus , Patchouli, Frankincense, Benzoin, Agar wood , Ambroxan , Moss

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde: When Guerlain Looked Towards Brazil (new fragrance)

The fact that Brazil is an emerging market for perfume companies is no big news to readers of this blog.  We have noted the phenomenon for some time, with niche perfumeries taking an interest in the country of Pele, favelas and endless beaches (see Batucada by L'Artisan Parfumeur for instance) as well as more mainstream luxury houses, such as Dior with their Escale sub-line. Now another European house of pedigree, the French Guerlain, joins them with a new fragrance in their light-hearted declination, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria line.

Limon Verde ( limón verde refers to lime and literally translates as "green lemon") is inspired by the refreshing note prominent in the national "drink" of Brazil, the Caipirinha, which routinely includes lime alongside sugar cane liquor and sugar. House perfumer Thierry Wasser married this Caipirinha accord with lime to a tropical green accord, fig and tonka bean for some tenacity in the new Guerlain eau de toilette.

Brazilians are not very far removed from the Mediterranean concept of a refreshing splash as a much needed pick-me-up in the hot throe of a summer spent under an unrelenting sun, where fragrance isn't seen a weapon of seduction as it is seen as a necessary sensual pleasure out of life that pertains to all sexes and all ages. In that spirit Guerlain can't do wrong.

It remains to be seen whether the local market will view it as homage to their "emblematic" lime cocktail note or they will use it as an effortless casual splash to be enjoyed all summer long. If you want to get a taste of what "clicks" for that particular market (which please note places a very high tax on all "western" luxury products and has very little "niche" infiltration so far, you can see the Best Seller perfumes list for Brazil for 2011-2012. )
Usually perfumes "inspired" by specific cultures necessarily bypass some elements to appeal to a wider audience, which is got to be true in the case of Limon Verde as well, seeing as it will come to North American and European markets.

Limon Verde by Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria line is launching internationally in spring 2014.

Penhaligon's Tralala: new fragrance

This April Penhaligon’s will release Tralala, a new fragrance inspired by the fantastical universe of Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff.

“We do not have a signature but rather a handwriting. We like to tell stories in different ways.” Meadham Kirchhoff

Meadham Kirchhoff’s shows have been scented by Penhaligon’s for the past nine seasons. The designers themselves have chosen a diverse selection of scents to represent their collections, including Hammam Bouquet, Bluebell, Castile, English Fern and Cornubia. The inevitable outcome of this ongoing collaboration, Tralala is an opulent, hedonistic blend created by Master Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.

A small note in passing? I guess this means that the long defunct L'Artisan Parfumeur fragrance Framboise Tralala will not get re-released anytime soon (at least under that name).

Notes for Penhaligon's Tralala:

aldehydes, saffron, whiskey and violet,
leather, tuberose, incense and carnation,
patchouli, vetiver, musk and vanilla.


info via press release, notes via E.Knezhevich

Les Parfums de Rosine Majalis: new fragrance

Les Parfums de Rosine is launching a new perfume, Majalis. The inspiration comes from the Rosa Majalis, a rose variant native in the Asian mountains. This flower develops an amazing cinnamon scent, which is the reason it's called the "love rose" due to its soft and captivating aura. Les Parfums de Rosine also call it the Cinnamon Rose.

The new perfume, Les Parfums de Rosine Majalis, is inspired by this unique rose to render a soft oriental with spicy complementary notes of pink pepper and nutmeg on a woody background. Bulgarian rose absolute contributes a bright and heady heart note.

The presentation of the bottle is rich and refined as usual: The Rosine bottle wears an amber cap and a silky cinnamon-hued pompon for this scent, tied with a fuchsia pink detail, while the folding box continues the theme of lozenges, but treated in bright metallic fuchsia details on a bronzed card in a cinnamon colour to reflect the mood of the Majalis perfume.

Make Perfume, Not War: Gerard Ghislain Presents a Humanitarian Fragrance

"Les enfants ont the solution, the solution sont les enfants "
~Gerald Ghislain
(i.e. The children have the solution, the solution is the children).

What would happen if wearing a perfume became a call to action? With this question Gerard Ghislain, perfumer and founder of Histoires de Parfums (as well as of lines The Scent of Departure and Alice & Peter) presents his new offering, called "Make Perfume, Not War". The proud father of 4 children, Ghislain always had an affinity for sponsoring a cause that would help children in need. He felt now was the right time to get into action.

Perfume for humanitarian purposes isn't new (let's remember Jabu by Mona di Orio or the Le Labo Tokyo wider release for the relief of earthquake-hit Japan), but every effort counts. For every bottle of Make Perfume Not War sold a portion (50$) of the proceeds will be donated to support and protect children in need around the world. The buyer actually gets to choose which cause will receive his contribution, the range including 5 subjects: sports, education, technology, art or women's microfinance.

Make Perfume Not War is a unisex fragrance that opens with citrusy notes of orange, lemon, grapefruit, mandarin and bergamot segueing into a floral fruity heart of mango, pineapple, peach, freesia, lilac, and cyclamen which finishes on an aromatic and woody accord.

To make it even more valuable Make Perfume Not War will only be produced in a limited 1,000 numbered bottles of 120ml retailing at 205$ from September 15th, 50 of which will be donated to the fund with the aim to achieve in a short time the benchmark of $ 50,000. The fragrance will be exclusively available for purchase at the dedicated website www.makeperfumenotwar.org.

The site does not currently state which Children's Associations they're working with or how the buyer will ascertain of his/her contribution getting to the proper hands (they only state" The fund is regulated by the French government and the accounts are reviewed yearly by public officials") but I trust that this small technical matter will soon be clarified, as the sign "soon" upon hitting the "Learn more" button promises to.

Jouany Marrakech and Saint Barthelemy: new fragrances

Christophe Jouany has been a fashion photographer for the last 28 years with a successful career shooting campaigns for L’Oreal, Revlon, and Maybelline, Sports Illustrated swimsuit editions, and numerous covers and fashion features for major magazines around the world, like Vogue, ELLE, Marie Claire, and Glamour. His life as a photographer and love of adventures took him to some of the most beautiful and exotic locations in the world, and inspired him to create an olfactory voyage through his new line of Jouany Perfumes. From a very early age, Christophe has been passionate about scents. Twelve years ago, faced with frustration at not being able to find a perfume he liked, he decided to create his own. Mixing essential oils at home, Christophe began experimenting to find the right composition, texture and strength to his fragrances, beginning with one that reminded him of his hometown of St. Barthélemy in the Caribbean. After wearing his own fragrance for a decade, and getting constant requests from many people to commercialize it, he finally decided to create his own line.

Saint Barthelemy:
The first stop on the JOUANY OLFACTORY voyage is St. Barthélemy. Inviting you to explore the magical luxurious beauty of the island of St. Barthélemy, this sensual, exotic perfume begins with head notes musk resolve with a spellbinding twist of crisp white grapefruit, followed by heat notes that mingle vanilla, coco Jasmine and cedar wood. Evoking the barefoot elegance of St. Barth, the perfume’s base notes of patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, and white luxurious beauty of the island of St. Barthelemy.

Marrakech:
Like the great Moroccan city from which it takes its name, Marrakech transports you into the subtle but stirring pleasure of a Moroccan orange grove.The perfume begins with fresh, citrus head notes of orange blossoms, bergamot, and grapefruit. Next, heart notes emerge with delicate hints of jasmine and neroli. Finally, Marrakech concludes its intoxicating olfactory odyssey with woody base notes of patchouli and white musk.

Pricing: $125.00 / 1.7 Oz. Made in France.

Where to buy:
Henri Bendel New York, New London New York, Art of perfume Philadelphia, Sloan Hall Saint Antonio and Houston, CO Bigelow New York, Beautyhabit.com, Parfumerie Germain des pres Canada

info thanks to beautypress

The Scent of the Ballet: Iris Prima by Penhaligon's (video)

The upcoming Penhaligon's fragrance, to be launched next month, is called Iris Prima and is touted to be "a work of olfactory choreography", with Iris Absolute in the role of the prima ballerina. In a unique partnership with English National Ballet, Penhaligon’s has set about capturing the very essence of the ballet, turning to master perfumer Alberto Morillas as choreographer. Iris Prima will launch on the 9th of September 2013. Enjoy the first of two films dedicated to the launch.

Tocca Margaux: new fragrance

Feast your eyes on the gorgeous bottle of the newest feminine fragrance by Tocca cult brand, as it's so very beautiful as usual. Margaux eau de parfum, the upcoming feminine fragrance release, planned for October 2013, is a new proposition  in the line with a richer, more sophisticated scent than we've been used to previously (see Colette, Touch or Cleopatra by Tocca for instance).

via Perfume (Larie) pinterest.com

Fragrance notes for Tocca Margaux:
Top Notes: Blood Orange, Bergamot Blossom, Cassis, Green Gardenia
Middle Notes: Black Jasmine, Ambery Violet, Cashemere Woods
Bottom Notes: Warm Musk, Benzoin, Vanilla, Heliotrope

TOCCA Margaux Eau de Parfum (50 ml) retails at $68 at Sephora and Nordstrom stores nationwide and online at www.TOCCA.com, www.sephora.com, www.bluemercury.com and beauty.com beginning October 2013.

Puredistance Black: new fragrance

"Deep beauty is best experienced in the dark. Envision. Smell. Feel. Don't analyse. Today's trends to know everything and to show everything mute our magic feelings of inuintive beauty. Puredistance Black treaures the beauty of the unknown."

Puredistance BLACK is an understated elegant and mysteriously charming perfume that is close to the wearer and releases sensual and elegant scent layers in a whispering way...

The essence of the concept was to create a perfume that is close to the wearer and releases sensual and elegant scent layers in a whispering way—without shouting. A mysterious fragrance that stays in the shadow, giving away —only every now and then—part of its nature. Perfumer Antoine Lie loved the concept and created a sophisticated perfume full of charm with the same elegant personality as the timeless classic Puredistance I, but then more masculine and oriental. And as a consequence of the concept of BLACK (that treasures the beauty of the unknown) we will not reveal the ingredients of Puredistance BLACK....

Puredistance is created in Paris by famous French perfumer Antoine Lie and it will be available from December 2013 in 17.5, 60 and 100 ml flacons. Expect however a preview from PerfumeShrine in September!

news via press release

Lily Bermuda Calypso: new fragrance

A niche perfumery in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean? And yet, it moves. Calypso, the latest unisex fragrance by Lily Bermuda perfumery, located in the Bermudas, captures the summer energy of Bermuda’s Emancipation Celebrations and the lively rhythms of the Island’s music and lifestyle. Calypso is a fresh blend of sparkling neroli and bergamot. Its heart reveals fruity notes of Bermuda loquats and aromatic notes of the south shore seagrass. Calypso ends with soft and aquatic notes of white musk, which will linger on your skin and create lasting memories.

Family: Citrus Aromatic
Perfumer: Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone

“Calypso is fresh, dynamic and youthful – a fruity fusion of Bermuda scents, part of our unisex ‘Water Collection’ alongside South Water and Fresh Water,” said perfumer Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone who crafted the fragrance in St. George’s at The Bermuda Perfumery. “People who are open-minded, easy-going and passionate about a life of freedom and expression will cherish Calypso. With intrinsically Bermudian scents of loquats, seagrass and neroli, this fragrance is universal, well-suited for spring and summer celebrations like sunset cruises or an open air concert by the ocean.” This is the first fragrance launch since the Lili Bermuda line skyrocketed to international acclaim with segments on The View, The Bachelorette and CBS This Morning. In 2012, CBS News Travel Editor Peter Greenberg brought worldwide attention to Lili Bermuda when he named The Bermuda Perfumery the best place in the world to buy perfume in his book The Best Places for Everything.

Notes for Calypso by Lily Bermuda:
Top notes: Mandarin, Fresh French Basil, Sicilian Bergamot zest, Petitgrain, Citron
Heart Notes: Bermuda Loquat, Neroli, Seagrass, Geranium
Base notes: White Musk, Bermuda Cedar, Marine notes


Online orders at LiliBermuda.com are filled at The Bermuda Perfumery with a hand tied ribbon and shipped from the St. George’s Post Office.

news via press release

Serge Lutens La Vierge de Fer: the Iron Maiden Referencing New Fragrance

She walks on through the night
Her circumstances slight
Are only helping her to fail
And though she feels she's right
She tries with all her might
And makes the deepest peril pale
Oh, but she is unreal
Oh, but she doesn't feel
Oh, but she is unreal

She chooses who to love
And then unlike a dove
She takes the laughter from their smile
She wears a velvet glove
Her friends may find it rough
It is a gauntlet all the while

via laparousiedejesus

Could Serge Lutens have been listening to the 1970 Iron Maiden song by Barclay James Harvest (one of my long favorites[1]) and thinking of his own mother, who entrusted his keeping to the hands of relatives as a small child? We'll never know.

What we do know is that this hard-as-nails recollection is mixed: the fragrance pays tribute to Serge's own mother, poignant, since the anthropomorphic torture device know to us from the Inquisition days and the heavy metal band replicates the iconography of Mary, mother of Jesus. Aside from any notions (and involuntary misunderstandings) of grandeur, the concept of tending to fragility, to past traumas for the semi-abandonded Serge (much like a device of torture would reference), is at art's core and thus drives creation. And his fixation with 19th century romanticism (De Profundis or Vitriol d'Oeillet) and its darker side (Douce Amere), all the way through to German Expressionism (La Fille de Berlin) continues...

Vierge de Fer, the latest perfume to adorn the sumptuous Lutens line means Iron Maiden (also referenced as "Virgin of Nuremberg") and recalls the Inquisition dungeons we have come to associate with heavy metal bands, gothic tales and heavy SM tones.



The fragrance focuses on lily (a flower highlighted in Lutens's Un Lys previously) with a mineral, hard and cold aspect, that recalls the hardness of iron, and incense. According to Lutens himself: "The lily in Vierge de Fer is more glorious than in Un Lys. That one was fresher, more lily-like actually. It played on the whiteness of lily. This one [Vierge de Fer] plays on the heady aspect. It's a lily whose pollen hasn't been dusted off, it has kept its stamens and anthers. This is a lily which affronts, once again."[2]

Vierge de Fer has just been presented and will be widely available in September at Les Salons du Palais Royal in the beautiful bell jars of 75ml eau de parfum concentration and on the official Lutens e-boutique.

[1] For some reason or other, I first loved it as a teenager. Must have been the glorious bass line, as I loved following songs with strong bass lines.
[2]quote via Nicoals Olczyk translated from the French

CB I Hate Perfume #610 Outside: new fragrance

Christopher Brosius of CB I Hate Perfume maverick brand launches his latest ready-to-wear fragrance, #610 Outside. Formulated by founder and perfumer Christopher Brosius, Outside pays true homage to his country roots; after one too many a run-in with mosquitoes in the family's Pennsylvania garden, Christopher designed this fragrance to be first and foremost, a bug repellant. It is a fresh, vibrant scent that has notes of Lavender and Oregano, among others - and with it's bug-repelling qualities - it's here just in time for those sweltering summer BBQs.

Christopher Brosius, a cult figure among perfume cognoscenti is a Fragrance Foundation award-winner and the first perfumer to ever be recognized by the Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum for the way scent is designed. He has created countless groundbreaking scents and continues his work today through his namesake label, CB I Hate Perfume.

CB I HATE PERFUME #610 OUTSIDE
A sincere disdain for bugs, especially the flying variety, is the inspiration behind the latest CB I Hate Perfume scent, Outside. More than 10 years in the making, this bug repellant perfume has finally been brought to fruition by utilizing elements organically found in plant life, and it’s been well worth the wait.
“I hate bugs. Particularly mosquitoes. So this perfume began in 1992 as a bug repellant for me when I lived in the country. I knew from my research that one of the principal reasons plants produce their essential oils is to protect themselves from insects and I discovered several essential oils that were particularly effective to protect me from insects as well. The challenge then became to blend these various oils so that they truly smelled like perfume. Which, after a period of experimentation, is just what I did.”

So forever say goodbye to chemical sprays, creams and citronella candles and embrace CB’s latest Limited Edition fragrance that just so happens to keep you smelling lovely and bug-free at the same time. CB fans might remember an original version of the scent found only in the Gallery, but the new incarnation of the fragrance is more refined, and wears ‘deeper and richer’ than the original. OUTSIDE perfume is a refreshing, lively scent that contains notes of lavender, geranium, patchouli, bergamot and a touch of Oregano, among others. It opens with a burst of freshness, and dries to a ‘soft,’ slightly floral finish.
OUTSIDE is currently available in 15ML Absolute ($115) and a 100ML Water Perfume ($100) at the CB I Hate Perfume Gallery in Brooklyn and online at cbihateperfume.com

The Different Company South Bay, Kashan Rose and White Zagora: new fragrances

The Different Company introduces three new additions to their esprit collection, South Bay, Kashan Rose and White Zagora, all composed by perfumer Emilie Coppermann and priced at 86 euros each for 90ml of eau de toilette.

Kashan Rose is a surprising fragrance, developing with notes of the Persian rose celebrated at the festival of the May rose in the city of Kashan. The fresh, fruity and spicy blend of sage, litchi, pink pepper and cardamom, segues to Persian rose. Rose petals are surrounded with hawthorn and peony, on a base of ambrette, sandalwood and musk.

Notes for Kashan Rose
litchi, sage, cardamon, pink pepper Persian rose, hawthorn, peony sandalwood, ambrette seed, musk 

South Bay is a luminous woody composition with fresh citrusy accents. The composition opens with a luminous blend of grapefruit, mandarin leaves and tamarind. Woody accords of grapefruit tree with freesia flowers and eglantine (Rosa rubiginosa) become stronger in the central layer of the composition, enhanced with creamy sandalwood, vetiver and suede creating the base of the perfume.

Notes for South Bay
grapefruitt mandarin leaf, tamarind grapefruit wood, freesia, eglantine sandalwood, suede, vetiver

White Zagora is a sensual oriental fragrance based on orange blossom accords. The top emphasizes neroli, citrus notes of which bergamot is the most discernible, with orange blossom in the heart, sweetened with honey, tuberose and sweet peach blossom. The base is warm, sensual and soft, via osmanthus, white musk and amber.

Notes for White Zagora
neroli, citruses, bergamot orange blossom, peach blossom, tuberose osmanthus, amber, musk

More on the official site.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Amour Nocturne, Deliria, Skin on Skin: new fragrances in Explosion d'Emotions collection

This September, L’Artisan Parfumeur launches Explosions d’Emotions, a thrilling new collection of Eaux de Parfum. Faithful to the vision of its founder, Monsieur Laporte, the cult Parisian perfume house sets a new standard with three exceptional fragrances. Three concepts, translating the extraordinary emotional power of fragrance, created without compromise, with master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.


 According to the official blurb the collection includes:

AMOUR NOCTURNE

the intimacy of the night Infinite tenderness becomes ecstasy. Live a moment of sublime intimacy... Cedar, surrounded by soothing notes of hot milk and caramel, gives way to a powerful burst of gunpowder, and orchid. An explosion of love, beyond time and place.

DELIRIA

exhilaration of the senses
Prepare to be thrilled. Your senses will be shaken into a delicious blur. Déliria is the fantastic contrast between metallic, rhum and gourmand notes of toffee apple and candy floss. Top and base notes lose themselves in the heart of the fragrance in a dizzying cloud.

SKIN ON SKIN

a wanton embrace
Skin on Skin awakens our animalistic instincts...to touch, to get closer, to smell. It merges a sensual iris with a suede, velvet leather. The intertwining of saffron, whisky, lavender and rose, melts into musks and skin effects. A carnal creation to be used without moderation.

The new packaging is inspired by the aesthetic codes of L’Artisan Parfumeur; a harmony of luxurious materials: – sensual, thickly-textured white paper with original debossed motifs; precious metals; a beautifully facetted glass flacon. L’Artisan Parfumeur is proud to be ‘Made in France’, of its artisanal attention to detail, and, naturally, of ‘le luxe à la française’; the union of simplicity and sophistication.

PRODUCTS: Three Eaux de Parfum 125ml
LAUNCH DATE: Early September 2013
Available in L’Artisan Parfumeur boutiques, concessions and website.
RRP: £135

Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena: new fragrance

"With Iris Nazarena eau de parfum", perfume creator Ralf Schwieger explains "I had to face two major challenges: to find a point of difference with Chanel No. 19, which has always been a reference point for iris-based scents and an unsurpassable model since its launch in 1971, and to incorporate transparency so that the beauty of the Nazarene iris would be best expressed".



The second eponymous fragrance by niche haven Aedes de Venustas in Greenwich Village, New York City is launching this June and is inspired by the Bismarck variety of iris, also known by the name of Nazarene iris thanks to growing in the mountains east of Nazareth, which piqued Karl Brad's (the co-founder of Aedes) interest.

German perfumer Ralf Schwieger (with the perfume-producing company Mane), is winner of the Fragrance Foundation France Prix des Experts, 2012, creator of such successful fragrances as Eau des Merveilles (Hermès), Lipstick Rose (Frédéric Malle), The Afternoon of a Faun, and Philippine Houseboy aka Fils de Dieu (Etat Libre d' Orange) and Orange Sanguine (Atelier Cologne). Previously Aedes de Venustas had employed Bertrand Duchaufour for their first eponymous fragrance, in a flacon of deep purple glass. This time the bottle of Iris Nazarena takes on a fittingly dark grey tint.

In Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena ambrette, with its facets of pear, rose and musk, is luminous on the top notes while juniper berries introduce the theme of incense. The fresh and vivid green star anise evokes the stylized leaves and stems of the flower with woody notes such as patchouli and vetiver alluding to the roots in the earth. The clay like earthiness is further warmed by touches of cloves and oud.

Notes for Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas:
Top: iris, ambrette, juniper berries, star anise
Heart: leather, oud, cloves, rose de Mai
Base: incense, woods, musk, vetiver

Herbal & Tangy, Aromatic & Green: Unusual Scents from the Bountiful Garden

Have you ever wanted to bottle the sweet smell of an herb garden or the tangy scent of a tomato? Such a mental image is enough to send your mind spinning into fantasies of having your own little patch of greenery or the memory of cutting the stems of fresh, organic vegetables grown in your childhood's garden. I suppose these are daydreams we all have but have yet to find the perfect scented memento to make them come alive again. Well, now you can, apparently.



 Great American Scents, a New Albany, Ohio based company that creates unique fragrances and candles, recently launched a new line of scented candles and perfumes called Bountiful Garden. These artisanal scents were created for a woman (or a man!) who loves the natural smell of the earth’s bounty; they signal freshness and impart the free-feeling spirit of the outdoors.

The 2013 Spring and Summer Collection features these enticing fragrances:

Tomato Leaf
Nothing signals a garden in full bloom more than sweet and luscious red tomatoes on the vine. And to their succulent charm Great American Scents added the oh-so slightly tart scents of verbena and rhubarb. Plus the beguiling earthiness of oak and moss. This is summer heaven. Top Notes: verbena, rhubarb, tomato stem; Mid-Notes: Olive flower, crushed green leaves; Dry Notes: oak moss, guaiac wood

Flowering Herbs
Nothing complements a garden and kitchen like a delightfully fragrant herb garden. Bright grapefruit and crisp apple scents, followed by fresh hyacinth and luscious peonies with pretty patchouli notes underneath will greet anyone who walks through a room. Top Notes: Grapefruit, green herbs, apple; Mid-Notes: Hyacinth, lotus flower, peony; Dry Notes: sycamore, patchouli, blonde woods

Sweet Magnolia
Conjure up the romantic South more with the honeyed goodness of magnolia blossoms. With a touch of lemon and hyacinth for brightness, and that most charming of scents – gardenia. Beneath it all Great American Scents has stirred in the timeless intrigue of iris and sandalwood. Top Notes: Lemon, gardenia leaves, hyacinth; Mid-Notes: gardenia blossom, lotus flower, magnolia; Dry Notes: skin musk, sandalwood, iris.

Beet Root
Delight in the earthy and spicy scents of bergamot, cedarwood and musk, wrapped with a hint of green leaves, orange blossoms and sea lily. Then sweet and fruity notes of fig, oleander and orange blossom join in this fragrant melody. Top Notes: Bergamot, green leaf, fig; Mid-Notes: sea lily, oleander, orange blossom; Dry Notes: cedarwood, warm wood, musk

Victory Garden
During World War II, Victory Gardens sprung up all across America with their crisp aromas of basil and sage. Walk a little further and a touch of citrus, violets and lavender appeared on the nose. And for good measure the warmth of cedar and mahogany added depth and dimension. Top Notes: Bergamot, petitgrain, basil; Mid-Notes: lavender, violet, crisp sage; Dry Notes: warm woods, cedarwood, mahogany

Orchard Blossom
When the orchard begins to blossom the delicious scents of fresh fruit can’t be far behind. Here Great American Scents starts with sweet apply, lush apricots and morning dew. Then delicate tiare flower joins in. And the warmth of orris and musk add a comforting finish. Top Notes: Apricot, apple, dew fruits; Mid-Notes: Apple blossom, tiare flower, stardust peony; Dry Notes: blonde woods, orris, musk.

Sunshine Grove
Come to the Grove and pick the sparkling fresh scents of citrus fruit with Great American Scents. And take joy in the uplifting fragrances of lemongrass blossom, sage and iris. Plus Great American Scents has added a whiff of intoxicating vanilla and musk. Top Notes: Orange, sage, clementine; Mid-Notes: lemongrass blossom, neroli, lily; Dry Notes: vanilla, iris, musk


For more information about Bountiful Garden, visit http://www.greatamericanscents.com, http://www.facebook.com/GreatAmericanScents or http://www.twitter.com/AmericanScents.

Le Labo Limette 37 City-Exclusive: new fragrance

Don't expect Le Labo's San Francisco exclusive to be a chilly summer fog essence or the Golden Gate in a bottle. Le Labo is hot on the heels of the launch of two new fragrances, Lys 41 and Ylang 49, part of the classic le Labo collection, with another city-exclusive to substitute for the loss of Aldehyde 44 for Dallas, due to discontinuation, (see a review of Aldehyde 44 here), after the closing down of the Barneys boutique distribution there.

Source: Uploaded by user via PerfumeShrine on Pinterest

 [Photo by Kathrin Thelen via fotocommunity.de]

According to the official blurb by the company: "Limette 37's reference to San Francisco is abstract and delves into its olfactive construction that mimics the hilly ride from Le Labo's Fillmore street store to the bay. You start off with a view, with bergamote's freshness and light, before plunging into the warm and welcoming effects of jasmine, petit grain and clove that roll into luscious softness with vetiver, tonka beans and musks... Limette 37 is an olfactive roller coaster, mingling an impression of cleanliness, freshness and well-being with that definite feeling that you are smelling special. In a good way of course."

We'll see, I suppose. Given that many of the city exclusives are true gems (Gaiac 10, Poivre 23, Baie Rose 26 or Vanille 40), perhaps the predictable ring of the given notes will amount to more than the sum of the parts.

*This is a repost from the post of 14th May, removed since, at the request of the company.

Les Parfums de Rosine Vive la Mariee: new fragrance

The Fragrance of happiness!
A bride likes to choose a delicate fragrance. Vive la Mariée is a very feminine and subtle perfume, in harmony with the feelings she feels in her heart. The floral composition of Vive la Mariée has been devised like a bride's bouquet. Benoit Lapouza is the nose who has made this gentle floral scent, based on an idea by Marie-Hélène Rogeon, the creator of Les Parfums de Rosine.


A gentle floral fragrance.

 A harmony of flowers and green, made from bergamot, neroli, and lychee, comes to mind. This fades gently to allow the white flowers to appear. At the heart of the fragrance are jasmin sambac, peony, magnolia flowers and freesia accompanying the rose and orange blossom. Then, toned down but still there, are the happy scents of celebration. Wedding cake, sugar almonds and little choux pastries can be found in the sweetness of the praline, the fruity sensuality of peach and the whipped-cream of vanilla-tonka beans. The fragrance keeps its magical bridal train for us for the finish. A procession of Patchouli, Cedar, Musk and Sandalwood creates a drifting note, unreal, which will be difficult to resist.

Vive la Mariée’s tender trail will make it unforgettable for brides, grooms and their guests.