Autumn Harvest and Shamhain: The Warmth of the Season

Late autumn is a sure signal of embracing the joys of the hearth to whom I'm not at all averse. Before the temperatures demand lightening the fireplace with a proper, roaring log fire (it's not too cold where I am yet, in fact it's unusually warm this year), lightening scented candles makes for a cozy ambience in res media. Diptyque's Maquis and Figuier candles, preferably lit together to throw their combined scent, is probably the most nostalgic scent for me personally, reminiscent as it is of the aroma of the Mediterranean countryside, filled with the burnished copper of immortelle, the sapling of the fig tree and its bittersweet smelling leaves slowly decaying on the moistened soil. And oranges, lots of oranges...

photo, borrowed, credit: Nik Sharma A Brown Table via

Some of the fragrances I long to wear again this month are as follows:

Une Fleur de Cassie (Éditions des Parfums Frédéric Malle)

It didn't take me a trip to fragrance capital, Grasse, to appreciate the exquisite technique showcasing every nook and cranny of the mimosa/cassie essences, but that didn't do any harm either! Une Fleur de Cassie has the right amount of "dirty" gusset to hint at coarse carnality (cassie absolute is notoriously musky, jasmine absolute is indolic) while at the same time remaining a gorgeous floral (hints of carnation and rose absolute), smudging its odds and ends into almost an oriental (sandalwood, vanillic fond)

Like This (Etat Libre d'Orange created in collaboration with Tilda Swinton) 

A natural autumnal option since it features actual notes of pumpkin, gingerbread spices, everlasting flower (immortelle), warm woody notes and the scent of damp, mulch-rich earth (in the very best way). Mmmm, probably a cult gourmand since contrary to other gourmand fragrances heavy on the foody aspects this harvest scent has perfumistas flocking to it.

Black Orchid (Tom Ford)

Forget every blurb you read about how the perfume was developed according to Tom's specifications it should smell "like a man's crotch." (Glurp! I know you wish you hadn't heard of that. Unless you're playing for the other team, in which case grab this to try out.) Thankfully, this truffle and flowers on a vanilla base floriental doesn't smell as crude as that might make it sound. But it's undeniably sexy all the same, and cozy too in its own way.

Santal Blush (Tom Ford)

A gorgeous, clean, dry sandalwood fragrance with an immediate message of sensuousness and no boozy aftertaste; beautiful and wearable, as tactile as smooth silk cushions. Unisex fare!

Molecule 01 (Escentric Molecules)

If you want to give the impression you don't wear anything (play them low and reap them high) this mono-molecule fragrance (it's full of just aromachemical Iso-E Super) at an optimum concentration will trick your date into believing it's just your skin smelling that good. Totally abstract, can't place it, can't put a finger on it, fuzzy, buzzy, delicious trail...

L'Orpheline (Serge Lutens)

This "orphaned girl" is such a peculiarly unisex blend that I dare anyone to smell it and attribute it to girls. Its slightly body odor-ish intimacy is kinda addictive; I wore intensely when it came out with no diminished enjoyment for its austere woods, intense musks, hint of herbal bitters and wink of sweet spice. I put it aside for a while but need to bring it out again. A bit of cozy dirt can be good for the soul!

La Myrrhe (Serge Lutens)

Myrrh gum is part of ecclesiastical incense alongside frankincense for millennia. You would expect a true blue oriental going by the name, right? Lutens infuses the bitter ambience of myrrh with candied mandarin rind and citrusy aldehydes which bring this on the upper plane of an airy aldehydic. Somehow it wears lightly but solemnly too (just like the season isn't yet dead cold, right?) and it resembles nothing else on the market. Crisp days bring La Myrrhe's attributes to the fore and it remains amongst my most precious possessions.

Antaeus (Chanel)

A masculine in my rotation and a powerfully 1980s at that, bringing the era back as surely as quarterback shoulder pads, Doc Martins and "mullet" hairstyles. Who said fall isn't about nostalgia? The beeswax leathery honeyed carnality is palpable. I consider it among my sexiest fall fragrances and feedback suggests I'm not delusional…

Hypnotic Poison (Christian Dior)

I'm cheating with this one, as I actually use the body lotion instead of the eau de parfum or eau de toilette versions. Still the fetish-y red, poisoined apple creates as much intrigue with its looks as it does with its scent. Fairy tales and original sin mix and testimonies say it works on guys like a magical charm. The bitter almond folded into vanilla cream radiates with the sensuality of musk and jasmine.

And for an interesting (a ha!) juxtaposition with what I was anticipating of wearing last year approaching the beginning of fall, here is the link to last year's autumn fragrances picks. And yet another list of autumn perfumes, divided into trickesters and treaters,  in the spirit of Halloween and Shamhain. For those celebrating Dia de los Muertos, here is a recipe for kolyva dessert, the traditional offering (spondee) to the dead in my culture.


Here's to a lovely rest of the fall season and a beautiful winter ahead!
Let me know which are your favorite or most worn fragrances this season in the comments.

The Season of Plenty Upon Us: Autumn Fragrances to Savor

Now that the temperatures are slowly cooling and the humidity is falling (but any occasional showers are still crisp and cool instead of grim and ghastly) my mood is picking up. I look forward to students' backpacks, hot coffee with long cinnamon sticks, turning leaves, lightweight cashmere knits and new books! Many and varied new books  for every  single  taste.
And there's another unforeseen but important plus in the coming season. Finally one can go out in mixed company with more than a single spray of perfume behind one's knees. Rejoice!

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Yves Saint Laurent design 1975 shot by Helmut Newton

Fall in many places on the northern hemisphere is a time when the temperatures really drop. We can savor the opportunity to favor a more concentrated version of our preferred fragrance. If you like something in eau de toilette, give a try to the eau de parfum or even extrait de parfum version. These are usually richer in base notes which evaporate much slower, meaning you will be surrounded by your perfume for longer. If that was bothersome in the summer it is now desirable when the weather is cool and your more delicate scents feel insignificant.

For those of you wanting to explore ways to expand the potential of your existing fragrance wardrobe I have analyzed a good bit of ways in my article on Fragrantica: Falling into Fall Patterns. 

For those who want to see my personal choices for this autumn season here's a brief "looking forward to" (as the temperatures haven't dropped enough yet) I have compiled.

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A VERY PERSONAL PERFUME SELECTION OF 12 SCENTS FOR EARLY FALL 

NB. All linked names open up fragrance reviews. 

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Almost a modern classic. This fruity leathery fragrance possesses the classiness of yesterdays with the contemporary edge of a modern seductress. My newish bottle is also the gift of a very dear friend. 

Bvlgari Black (original)

For years I have loved this rubbery smoky vanilla by Italian jeweller Bulgari with the passion it justly deserves but have worn it sparingly. Now that they have substituted it with a different men's scent by the same name it gains a twisted nuance; "what is it you're wearing?" Try and guess dude.

Dame Perfumery Dark Horse 

A player if I ever saw any in liquid form! Rich and addictive but also fresh and charming. A study in contrasts. 

Diorling (2000s re-issue)

The finest leather scent this side of Doblis (Hermes) and one that is ineffably sharper without cutting anyone's skin. Though this is also good in summertime alongside my beloved Bandit (Piguet) or Etro Gomma I have not worn this one in what seems like ages. Life is short and I should remedy this misstep.

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Guerlain Mitsouko (mostly vintage Eau de Toilette and Extrait)

The eroticism that shouldn't be erotic. There's just something to the way the previous sentence rings,  isn't there? Explore Guerlain's classic Mitsouko (great deal HERE btw) if you want to find out just how this theorem works. 

Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur extrait 

Succulent florals with a gourmand touch are a difficult genre but perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour has created a masterpiece under the inspired guidance of Neela Vermeire. The entire line is highly worthwhile your time and investment actually.

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I just love leather gloves!

Paco Rabanne La Nuit 

Another leather fragrance and you might be discerning a pattern so far. If so you're not far off the truth. Although I like leathery smells in the summer too (because they cut through the humidity of it all) autumn weather is more fit for those with animalic notes. Slot taken by this discontinued vintage marvel. 

Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely eau de parfum 

One needs something to fall back upon (no pun intended) for days when they can't be bothered to think about stuff; when they're already overwhelmed. I was reminded of this light musk fragrance with abstract florals due to another dear friend and I think I'll finish off my bottle this year (and probably replenish).

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Serge Lutens  Boxeuses 

The niche interpretation of the above mentioned Bottega Veneta edp recipe (samples available for the latter HERE). So good and so beautiful in its stewed prunes hue that I want to bathe in it.

Serge Lutens Vitriol d'Oeillet

A rather recent acquisition of a frarance bottle and just the right dose of piquant spiciness of cloves to render this floral an intriguing companion to quiet nights. 

The Body Shop Red Musk

A whiff of pipe tobacco and dried apricots smell remnants on a beloved's dressing gown is an image I can take to bed and get very pleasant dreams. 

Tom Ford Prive Santal Blush

One of the silkiest sandalwoods in modern production and that says it all. It's not anything like you expect and should fit a multitude of lifestyles and skins. Men's as well as women's.


So I'll have these in rotation for the beginning of autumn it seems. I might enrich with orientals and more chypres as time goes on so I'll update mid-fall.
What are YOU looking forward to wearing this season? Share it in the comments below the article.


Related reading on Perfume Shrine: 
Trick or Treat: Top Fall Fragrances
Falling in Love: Scents and Treats for Autumn
Matching Perfume to Fall's Trendiest Fashions
Perfume Primers: Chypre Fragrances for Newbies 

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5 New Fall Fragrances That Caught My Eye

Fall, autumn, whatever you choose to call it, is probably my most favorite season of them all. It might have to do with being born in it, with getting a relief from the heat that broils the city in the summer (I wouldn't mind being called a pluviophile) or the fact that I spent the vast majority of my life counting time in academic years. Whatever it may be, I rejoice in the feeling of renewing my mood through the changing scenery, the changing smells and the changing feelings: from languor to dynamism and from gallivanting playfulness to stimulating sensuousness.

For this transient period I chose 5 new fragrances which fit the season and promise new beginnings. They came, they made an impression, they seduced me one way or another.
Please find the selection of Top 5 New Fall Fragrances on this slideshow with beautiful pictures.  Perfect for a season of cardigans, big cashmere scarves, lush jewelry and wonderful nappa leather boots.

And please feel free to add your own discoveries among the newest crop of fragrances in the comments!

Top Autumn Sensory Discoveries: Fragrances, Tastes and Feasts for the Eyes

It's no secret that fumeheads (an affectionate term for perfume enthusiasts) are sensuous people. They embrace anything that involves the senses, from Epicurian tastes to visual stimuli. There's simply always an open arena to sniff, to savour, to lay one's eyes on...Life's too short anyway not to be inquisitive.
In this regard, a team of excellent perfume bloggers (please check them out on the bottom of post) joined me into relaying our recent disoveries in sensual pleasures for this fall. Enjoy!

• TACTILE SENSATIONS

It's our national holiday today (the Ohi Day) and the military nuance isn't out of place. But beyond that, this navy blue wool jacket by La Redoute is both very warm and stylish enough to be worn any given day. I'm pairing it with dark-rinse bootcut jeans (instead of khakis), a matelot top (just like in the photo) and my trusty Hermès enamel bangles to finish off its nautical theme.

• VISUAL DELIGHTS

Art has a way of brightening the day. Especially original art I can hang on my walls.

Ballet Dancer Sitting, original drawing available for purchase on Etsy.com

Ancient Priestess, original drawing available for purchase on Etsy.com

• FAVOURITE FALL 2011 FRAGRANCES

To my utter surprise (jaded perfume critic that I've become!) several fragrance releases lately have not only been quite impressive, but they have infiltrated their presence into my everyday existence beyond reviewer's testing alotment. I have adopted them in a more durable way and thinking about investing more substantially on them.

pic via efashiontrend.net

Bottega Venetta Eau de Parfum THE winner for me this fall; subtly leathery goodness with warmth and coziness, underneath a fruity chypre mantle with a beating jasmine heart. What's not to like? It's also a more easily procured and less expensive stand-in for Boxeuses. Win-win.

Balenciaga Paris L'Essence Possibly the best office scent since Prada Infusion d'Iris. Unobtrusive, yet there, its violet leaf with warm, skin tones and nutty accents is quietly appealing.An alternative to the other woody violet of the season, Tom Ford's Violet Blonde.

Parfumerie General Praliné de Santal The juxtaposition of savoury and sweet, intensely nutty, before the scent falls into an unctuous billowy note of powdery, rich woods and the soothing, smooth silkiness of Cashmeran is addictive. I'm thinking of it when not wearing it. Not to mention, sandalwood is proving something of the theme of the season, once again.

Cartier Baiser Volé This stolen kiss of green lily and powder is ethereally lyrical. I might have expected more avant-garde by Mathilde Laurent, but let's be realistic here: it's so very pretty!

Tauer Pentachord White A silvery, expansive imagescape: A fragrance of either the crack of dawn or the crepuscular drawing of a prolonged cool afternoon, the contrast between light and shadow. Orris, violet, vanilla, ambergris notes...

Guerlain Mitsouko (vintage) Revisiting my old bottles of Mitsouko, like I ritualistically do as soon as autumnal weather raps at my window pane, I'm reminded of the words of Pascal Bruckner that "[anyone] who desires cannot be guilty... sin proceeds only from prohibitions" and I'm mentally throwing my fist at IFRA.

• SWEET & VAMPY THINGS ON THE LIPS

Relax, my pretties. It looks venomously dark and puple in the tube, but it's gorgeous for us brunette gals with light skin when applied on the lips. (I always consult dependable Christine from Temptalia for application photos) Dolce &Gabanna Lipstick in Lust goes beyond Halloween into serious, drama-full evening attire. Plus it smells rosey!

Dolce &Gabbana Make Up Classic Cream Lipstick Lust (clipped to polyvore.com)
 

• BOOK TO BOOKMARK

Edith Head's little 1967 tome on how to elegantly dress was reprinted: How to Dress for Success is not merely someone's fashion advice. It is written by the woman who imprinted on our collective memory the golden goddesses of Hollywood and their impecable style. Retro, granted, but you'll blink out of the sheer chic.

• FILMS TO CATCH

Drive
I had forgotten all about "neon-noirs", in which the LA night lights -in the immortal words of Sunny/Alexandra Paul- "made her cunt's hairs shine"; till this little Nicolas Winding Refn directed gem that is. The anti-hero's fantasy of being a silent type ordinary man "but [also] a real hero" is mingled with the director's essay on man's true nature and its boundaries; immortalised in successive shots of the white satin jacket with a huge scorpion sewn on the back and splattered with blood. I'm still thinking about it weeks after watching.  

George Harrison: Living in the Material World
I have always been a fan of The Quiet Beatle since day one. It's great to see many more were of an equal disposition towards his immense contribution; not only to music but to cinema too (A lesson for us all on how to support what you believe in).

• TASTES TO SAVOUR

Ambergris Eggs As discussed in a seperate post on cooking with ambergris, this is a heavenly and decadent recipe that will change your Sunday mornings for ever. Just don't pair them with bacon; the crude, oily meatiness doesn't go well with the marine, smoky-earthy character of the ambergris.

pic via the Greek fork
 

Fava (split pea purée) with caramelised onions Not exactly a new discovery, but I'm trying to reintroduce all the good, rural, organic dishes that Greek food really stands for into our everyday table: This is the stuff that made sturdy people who lived to a hundred with their wits sharp to the end, withstanding wars and ravages all the while. It's got to have something going for it! For this recipe (by Chef Karitas, find it here, on The Greek Fork) I use organic Santorini yellow lentil fava and extra virgin olive oil. Makes for a fine spread or dip for pita bread and accompanies a good Santorini Vinsanto on a cool evening.

• HAUNTING SOUNDTRACK

From the mind-blowingly nuanced and dark Revolutionary Road film, starring Kate Winslet and Leonardo Di Caprio. Music by Thomas Newman, this is the end titles piece. Let it fill the empty house as evening approaches...

Please visit the other participating blogs for more discoveries:

Katie Puckrik Smells

Scent Hive

Smelly Blog

The Non-Blonde