Esxence: exhibition in Italy news

Esxence: the scent of Excellence, the Art Perfumery’s Event takes place from 25th to 28th of March 2010 in Milan . The location is the renowned art museum La Permanente, in the heart of the City.
Esxence’s new location will welcome a lot of interesting friends such as Michael Edwards, well-known author of the book “Fragrances of the World”, Maurice Maurin, the Great French Master Perfumer author of the book “ La Sagesse du Créateur de Parfum”, of which Calé was the mover behind the Italian translation. L'Osmothèque, le Conservatoire International des parfums in Versailles and the Museo del Profumo in Milan and other supporters will propose workshops and events committed to improve the Perfumery Art knowledge.

Among participants who will attend we can quote the 7th descendant of Creed dynasty, Erwin Creed, or the 8th descendant of Floris family, Tom Marsh, but also the “nose” behind the Italian brands Calé Fragranze d’Autore and Profumi di Pantelleria , Maurizio Cerizza, the dynamic Parfums d’Orsay owner, Marie Huet and the “big Breton” Antoine Vuillermet, owner and creator of Lostmarc’h. The wonderful world of Humiecki&Graef will be proposed by Sebastian Fischenich and Dmitri Denissov will be happy to teach you the story of Mark Buxton . The world of wet shaving and men’s grooming, from Truefitt&Hill to Gentlemen’s Tonic, will be a huge discovery!

To get an idea of the special atmosphere you could brea the at Esxence last year please visit Esxence gallery.php.
If you would like to visit please remember to register yourself on the website http://www.esxence.com/ to receive by e-mail your personal invitation.

Annick Goutal Passion: fragrance review

All Annick Goutal perfumes have little stories behind them which adds to the enchanting, small scale appeal they have: Passion was the first fragrance which Annick Goutal created along with perfumer Isabelle Doyen in 1983 for her own use. The second one, inspired by the floral bouquets her husband offered her while courting, was Grand Amour; also a firm favourite of Perfume Shrine and to be tackled later on. Sables was made for Alain, Annick's husband, while Eau de Charlotte and Eau de Camille celebrate her daughters' childhood memories.

Passion dazzles amongst them with its headiness, its perceptible sillage and its great lasting power, "like a flower with translucent antennae and a mauve plastic heart.” Complicated, chewy, cruel, yet beautiful, like life itself, Passion made Tania Sanchez reserve one of her more poetic reviews of it in Perfumes,The Guide: "It feeks humid, narcotic, unsettling, like a moonless July night without a breeze". It could be one of those nights about which Raymond Chandler wrote: "Meek little wives feel the edge of the carving knife and study their husbands' necks."

The artistry of course lies in how to manipulate the (excellent) materials: The exotic Ylang-Ylang has facets of banana and even coconut; sweet, buttery, creamy, almost bulemic. On its other end though it encompasses methyl salicylate which recalls wintergreens. Tuberose has facets of camphor which act as a counterbalance of its intense white floral sweetness. Pair them with a bitter green touch which supports the already present caphoraceous scheme (tomato vine leaves, the same as used in Eau de Campagne by Sisley and Folavril again by Goutal, plus oakmoss) and some vanilla to offset the "fruitiness" of the bouquet and you've got something unique!
Passion starts with a heady caphoraceous blast of what can only be sensed as vibrant tropical florals snowballing a cadenza of sweet and green notes that unify to the point where you don't know where the garden ends and the woman starts. There is something very ladylike about Annick Goutal fragrances, yet in classic French tradition the lady in question can forget all about ladylike manners in the bedroom. Passion is carnal, yet delicate and fragile at the same time, like a 22-year-old ready to be consumed by love. And even older ones...

Notes for Annick Goutal Passion: Jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang, vanilla, tomato leaves, patchouli, oakmoss.

Passion by Annick Goutal is available as Eau de Toilette (100ml) and Eau de Parfum (50ml, 100ml) in boutiques carrying the Goutal line and several online venues. Check Lianne Tio's Nederthelands boutique on this link as well.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Annick Goutal news & reviews, Interview with perfumer Isabelle Doyen

Photo from the film Betty Blue, 37.2°C le Matin via livejournal/Ohnotheydidn't. Photo of bottle of Passion by Elena Vosnaki.

No Alcohol-Based Perfumes in Our Future?

The somewhat alarming title which brings to mind declarations much more ominous than "perfumery is dead" etc. due to reformulations or a reversion to ancient perfumery tactics which relied on oil-based elixirs isn't completely demagogue. In fact there is some development afoot which requires a bit of thinking and reconsidering and perhaps some action, if we're serious about what we say and do in public. (I'm reminding you of the ethos we champion)
It seems that when Ava Luxe stopped making alcohol-based eau de parfum versions of her popular fragrances she was on to something, even if she is based in sunny California. According to latest news, all alcohol based perfumes made in Colorado, USA, will be banned if HR 10-1248 CSPCPA is passed, as legisltors consider it a carcinogen! Even though alcohol is also found in several toners as an astringent & a preventative of fungal growth the CO Safe Personal Care Bill is acting up into banning its use. Which would entail perfume too, perhaps!

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics began as a self-regulatory body within the industry grouping colleagues in the small personal care products industry with the aim of a peer-reviewed scientifically verifiable position on products. "When the FDA introduced the FDA Globalization Act of 2008, it appeared as if CFSC was pressing for stringent, and perhaps unnecessary, regulations to be included in the act requiring product registration fees that would be prohibitive for many of the CFSC small business signers. At that time, it also began to become apparent that perhaps an overzealous rush headlong was overstating the immediate necessity for some of the requirements suggested to be included in the act and that perhaps established authorities were not being consulted to provide scientific documentation that would anchor CFSC’s position with actual facts and tempered scientific reasoning." [source] Reminds you of something? Thought so!

Colorado, USA has a proposed a bill, proposed for effect for September 2011, known as The Colorado Safe Personal Products Act, unfortinately so broad and vague that if it passes under its present guise the personal care shelves in stores would go bare! You can read the entire bill here. To follow the bill as it is updated click here and change the range to House Bills 1201-1250 and then scan down to 1248. [source Kayla Fioravanti] There is a hearing scheduled for March 1, 2010 (including sponsors and opposers) while the committee is meeting in room 0107.
Concern might be valid, but like someone questions, "Will these chemicals be ones that cause cancer when topically applied at normal usage percentges or will this information come from studies in which rats were injected with 100% concentration of said ingredients? There is a big difference between putting an diluated ingredient on the skin than injecting an ingredient into the body at full concentration."

It might be wise to be vigilant, because if this paranoia about possible toxics and carcinogens escalates the results would be akin to putting us in a plastic bubble. We're all for the informed choice of the consumer, but surely alcohol would have to be directly ingested and what's more in great quantities to effectuate such radical repurcussions such as tumour growths etc. Not to mention that alcoholics in poor situations are known to imbue clear alcohol to get their fix for years on end without necessarily cancers being the cause of their (eventual?) demise [of course no specific study has been conducted either, but let's just entertain the thought for the sake of our argument here a minute].
Food for thought at any rate! And possibly an incentive to write to your local Congressman/woman.



Here is a list of Colorado based small businesses who have raised their concerns and oppose the new Bill for further reading:
Oppose the Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act Donna Maria Coles Johnson, IBN Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act :: Take Action Immediately, Kayla Fioravanti, Essential Wholesale Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act Kelly Bloom, Southern Soapers Tunnel Vision, Robert Tisserand, Aromatherapy Expert and Author Colorado Safe Cosmetics Bill, Cindy Jones PhD, Sagescript Institute The Colorado Safe Personal Care Act: How Will it Affect You, Lisa Rodgers, Cactus & Ivy You Can Die From Salt, Too, Anne Marie Faiola, Bramble Berry Oppose Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act, Katherine Corkill, Sterling Minerals From the President – Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act, Leigh O’Donnell, HSMG Colorado versus the cosmetics industry, Sarva Natural Artisan Soaps When Safety in Personal Care, Isn’t Safety At All, Jerell Klaver, Salus Natural Body Care The Colorado No Product Law, Marge Clark, Nature’s Gift Tilting at Windmills: The Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act, Emily Topsham, GCD Spa Costly Confusion in Colorado: The Bubble Bill, Donna Maria Coles Johnson, IBN Related Articles: Colorado Proposes Ban on Cosmetics It Claims Cause Cancer, Cosmetic Design Bill Proposes the Colorado Safe Personal Care Products Act, Global Cosmetic Industry

Heeley Oranges and Lemons Say the Bells of St.Clement's: new fragrance

Oranges and Lemons, Say the bells of St. Clement’s: Yup, that's the full name of the latest Heeley fragrance which will be introduced in Excense 2010 in Italy. The brand by James Heeley had us all take notice with their Cardinal and Cuir Plein Fleur, to mention but two worthwhile specimens.

Born in Yorkshire, England, James Heeley studied Philosophy and Aesthetics at King’s College, London University. He lives and works in Paris. Product design, packaging, graphic design, interior design and perfume: the scope of his work is large, yet always approached with the same rigour and attention to detail. The apparent simplicity and elegance of his designs are the result of a continual thought process in which he marries form, function, and a coherent use of materials. Characterised by a certain degree of formalism, his idea of luxury is that it should abound with life and intelligence.

Now Heeley is after a playful new twist for their hesperidic fragrance in what has to do with its baptism at least. The name derives from an old British song:

Oranges and lemons, Say the bells of St. Clement’s
You owe me five farthings, Say the bells of St. Martin’s
When will you pay me? Say the bells of Old Bailey.
When I grow rich, Say the bells of Shoreditch.
When will that be? Say the bells of Stepney
I do not know, Says the great bell of Bow
Here comes a candle to light you to bed.
And here comes a chopper to chop off your head!

The fragrance? It contains notes of orange, lemon, bergamot, mandarin, neroli, petit-grain, Earl Grey tea, ylang ylang, vetiver, and musk.

info via Extrait.it

Amouage to open 2 stand-alone boutiques

"The luxury perfumer was founded 25 years ago at the request of Sultan Qaboos bin Said, Oman's head of state, as a way to both preserve the sultanate's biblical perfume-making traditions and provide gifts for visiting world leaders. Now, it's looking to infiltrate the European -- and eventually the U.S. -- markets with its own named stores selling an unique, expensive brand of perfume, and other luxury goods, for the body and the home.
Two new stores are planned for 2010 -- one in Dubai and one in London. The Dubai store, scheduled to open at the end of March, will be the first outside Oman. The London store, scheduled to open in May, will be the first outside the Gulf."

We love Amouage on Perfume Shrine and encourage you to read the whole article from cnn.com on this link.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Amouage news & reviews

It's in the Air...

One of the most classic fragrances, selling one bottle every minute someplace in the world, is L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci. Even if it's characteristic, immediately recognisable piquancy of spicy floral has been somewhat dimmed over the decades since its introduction in 1948 due to reformulations, the romantic ideal on which it was introduced to the world ~its doves bringing peace and serenity~ has not. Here are some of my favourite commercials and advertisements which have graced its fragrant trail over the years: From the masterful clip that recalls Hieronymus Bosch's "The Garden of Earthly Delight" to more nostalgic ones ("c'est une vie enchantée", it's an enchanted life). And from the 1993 graphic arrow-shot bottles by Enrique Badulescu from 1993 through to the Jean Baptiste Mondino ones at the subway from the late 1990s. The bottom line is what the lovely soft-focus ads from the 70s by David Hamilton proclaim: "'Un parfum doit être source de rêve." A perfume should work as a source of dreams...








Which one is your favourite?

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Fragrant Advertising articles

Traditional Handmade Soap Making: An Old Craft

"Soap making in Lebanon is an old craft established more than a thousand years ago. Handmade Lebanese soaps have been sold through the ages to the Arabian countries and Europe. The Badr Hassoun family has been involved in soap making for 800 years. The family’s houses and shops can still be seen in the Khan Al-Saboun or Soap Khan.[...]In the old days, the “attar”, perfumer and “ashab”, herbalist worked together to prepare medicated soaps infused with herbal remedies. Essential oils were mixed with medicinal herbs to make special soaps which treated dandruff, acne, eczema and hair loss. Badr Hassoun believes that these mild soaps have an advantage over modern remedies, because they are less likely to cause allergies or side effects".


A most interesting article appeared on Arabnews.com concerning the tradition of handmade aromatic soaps in Lebanon. You can read the whole article here.

pic via 360dewan.com

Chloé Eau de Fleurs The collection ~Lavande, Capucine, Neroli: new fragrances

A new floral chapter begins with the upcoming Chloé Eau de Fleurs collection: three scents inspired by classic flowers, Lavande, Capucine, Néroli, and encased in similar architectural bottles, distinguishable by the shade of their jus and the raw material they're referencing (Reminds you of niche "collections"? Thought so!). Let's see them one by one:

Chloé Eau de Fleurs Lavande - Lavender or Lavandula officinalis

An absolute echo of masculine fragrances, lavender has always inspired perfumer Domitille Bertier (IFF). “When I close my eyes and breathe in lavender essence, I imagine sheets drying in the sun and the freshness of summer days. I’ve wanted to create a women’s lavender fragrance for a long time.” Thus, when the Artistic Director of Chloé, Hannah MacGibbon, asked her to compose a feminine fragrance based on this androgynous material, Domitille was guided by her longstanding dream. “I used one of the noblest lavenders of our palette”. This essence was fractioned to lighten its coumarin base note. Without this almond-like aspect, it becomes an evanescent and airy aura of lavender. “I wanted a simple signature, the impression of an eau fraîche with a real perfume structure.” On the skin, the lavender of Chloé eau de fleurs Lavande seems herbaceous and tinged with citrus, alongside violet and bergamot leaves. Then, a tea accord prolongs the presence of bergamot into the heart of the formula. Lavender delicately transforms. The iris concrete gives it this verticality. Finally, musk envelops the allure in sweetness, while cedar, vetiver and cashmeran fuse with the ambergris accord to give a sensual tempo to the composition. An olfactory challenge that puts lavender back into the feminine field of possibilities.

Chloé eau de fleurs capucine - Nasturtium or Tropaeolum majus

With its interlocked leaves and petals, the nasturtium closely guards its secrets. One must dream and fantasize about it to see its presence in a perfumed composition. “I like the simplicity of this flower, which grows in my garden,” admits Louise Turner (Givaudan). “It seems to come straight from an antique botany book or herbarium.” Louise is inspired by her knowledge of wild gardens. She blends refreshing citrus – bergamot, lemon and neroli – with galbanum essence. A concentration of chic, this rarely used crisp green note offers a timeless inflexion to the fragrance. Behind this dense foliage of galbanum and sage, Louise adds a few aromatic touches of juniper berry, like a reference to a man’s wardrobe. And, at this moment, the petals begin to blossom on the skin. An impressionist sensation of faceted flowers of rose essence, rose absolute, jasmine and lily of the valley enwraps the heart of the formula like a mist from an unknown origin. Finally, ambroxan – a sensual and woody amber ingredient – melds with cottony musk to form a comforting halo. .

Chloé eau de fleurs néroli - Neroli or Citrus aurantium var. amara

Immediately recognizable, neroli essence makes everyone smile. Nostalgic of childhood, it diffuses its freshness in numerous perfumery compositions. This also makes it difficult to use: “We had to make the eau de fleurs néroli unique and prevent it from smelling like a baby care product,” explains perfumer Aliénor Massenet (IFF). “I have this very striking memory of a trip to Tunisia, when I walked through a field of bitter orange trees in blossom. And I dreamt of a vibrant, modern and noble neroli.” Surprising one and all, Aliénor Massenet decided to combine mandarin and orange in the head note with a typically masculine aromatic note: rosemary. This explosive dry herb underlines the bitterness of citrus fruit. At the heart of the formula, an exceptional high-quality neroli is swirled into an accord of peony petals and clary sage. With its fresh, spicy, floral and tobacco-like aspect, sage reveals tea accents that raise neroli to the height of modernity. Smitten with amber notes, Aliénor blends white musk, a trace of Tonka bean and an overdose of amber in the drydown for a “bare skin” sensation, along with unexpected, masculine cedar wood. Sweet, yet never innocent, floral and woody, fresh and sunny all at once.

Available from February 2010 exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue and Chloé boutiques, 100ml for $135.00
info &pics via press release

Sasha Varon Soulgasm : fragrance review

Sasha Varon Luxe Parfums is behind Soulgasm, the first of what seems a new line of perfumes self-positioning into niche territory. The main factor that I was interested in trying it was that part of the proceeds for each sale of Soulgasm goes to the charity Vitamin Angels.
Vitamin Angels reduces child mortality by connecting infants and children under five with vital nutrients, especially vitamin A and zinc, and has been working in 40 countries around the world in 2009. Vitamin Angels has been awarded two consecutive 4-star ratings from Charity Navigator for sound fiscal management, so I guess they do send over the "green". (visit vitaminangels.org for more info)

The company boldyly presents itself thus: "Established to create masterpieces uniquely rebellious of today’s status quo, Sasha Varon steals the stage with its first offering; SOULGASM, Heaven Sent, Hell-bent…
In an oversaturated market where packaging differentiation is crucial for sales success, Sasha Varon’s Soulgasm, with its provocative, sexy, vintage-inspired styling & feel takes you back in time, telling a story that reaches out and dares you not to pick it up and satisfy your curiosity".
NOTES for Soulgasm:
Head: Succulent Peach, Anjou Pear, South African Freesia, Ripe Black Currant
Heart: Wild, Night-Blooming Jasmine, Delicate Eurasian Lily, Multi-Faceted Woodberry
Base: Clean Musk, Warm Amber, Sweet French Vanilla

Sounds cool? Hmmm....Colour me sceptic.


I can't say I was impressed by Soulgasm's scent, certainly not in reference to the expectations that the ad copy creates (paradisial and inferno-touched at the same time, please note)! And the retro packaging and burlesque-inspired playful images (boosted by 40s-style jazzy music on the site) that accompany it prepare one for something completely different! In that respect there is a serious incongruity between image and scent: I'm sure they have their reasons.
Left to one's own devices, one (not me, I'm afraid) might appreciate the fragrance for what it is: a very mainstream and potent fruity floral. Certainly in a sea of fruity florals it is difficult to differentiate between them and indeed smelling Soulgasm reminded me of something I couldn't put my finger on. Was it the peachy Maybe Baby and the pear-meets-wet-dog-note of Petite Cherie rolled into one? Perhaps. The thing is the scent is VERY fruity, peach-dominated with strong berry notes and not especially floral, more shampoo-directed. One would be hard pressed to distinguish specific notes under the fruits, although I'm sure there is synth lily of the valley and synth violet to help expand the feel and open up the fruits ~as if it was necessary. It is very lasting and judging by my small sample vial which allowed a few squirts it projects quite a bit. Fruito-phobics should keep their distance.

The fragrance is available exclusively online and at Beautycafe.com
You can check out for yourself at Soulgasm (The site is really well done and the music is great auditory backrground if you're doing something menial, like washing dishes or taping envelopes at the office, while thinking about 40s classic noirs: I guess they did those things then too but more glamorously!)

In the interests of full disclosure I was sent a sample vial via a PR promotion.

The winner of the draw....

...for the Tonka Imperiale is The Duke of Pall Mall. Please email me using the email on the Contact page with a shipping address so I can send this to you immediately.

Thanks for playing along everyone so enthusiastically and till the next one.

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre: new fragrance

Chanel is taking their bestselling Chance perfume and giving it another spin after their first flanker Chance Eau Fraiche, this time calling it Chance Eau Tendre. A "tender water" spin on Chance then! More delicate and more playful, if that can be possible...
The fragrance composed by Jacques Polge, in-house perfumer at Chanel, will be a pink-hued fruity floral which I predict will not enthuse too much the perfumistas who want more "serious" fragrances out of that house. Still a Chanel always bears testing it out before judging.
Chanel describes it thus: "A new facet of CHANCE is born; the third generation of the CHANCE Fragrance family. The new incarnation of the decidedly young scent, CHANCE EAU TENDRE Eau de Toilette Spray reveals itself to be both delicate and radiant, with an intoxicatingly light, fruity trail. An unexpected mingling of grapefruit and quince meets the crispness of fresh green notes, while a trace of Jasmine Absolute lingers in the air. Gently warmed by a sheer veil of White Musk, at once, innocent and seductive".

The campaign is fronted by Sigrid Agren, and photographed by the legendary Jean-Paul Goude, a longtime collaborator of Chanel parfums. (The flower on top of the head does seem a little silly to me, but don't mind me, I'm not in the demographic).

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre will be available as an Eau de Toilette in 50ml/1.7oz and 100ml/3.4oz.

Edit to add: Full review on this link.

Notes for Chanel Chance Eau Tendre are:

Top: grapefuit, melon, quince
Heart: hyacinth, jasmine
Base: iris, white musk, Virginia cedar, amber

The perfume has just launched and is available at Nordstorm.

Fragrances for Myers Briggs Personality types!

In a most interesting experiment conducted by David Pybus, historian and head of Scents of Time, 150 executive women worldwide were questioned on their use of fragrance and their Myers Briggs personality type to determine any potential correspondence between the two.
Fundamentally there was some pairing between 16 Myers Briggs personality types matched to 16 fragrance types (the basic families divided in sub-sections) The 16th one bring absence of fragrance altogether (i.e. not wearing perfume); one has to account for that option too!
For each personality type some tendencies arised, in order of preference. Here they are:

NT (rational thinker)
Florals
Soft Florals
Woody Orientals
ST (practical)
Florals
Soft Floral
Woody Orientals
SF (feeling, sensing)
Florals
Soft Florals
Soft Orientals

NF (idealist)
Florals
Soft Florals
Woody Orientals
Soft Orientals/Orientals

SP(artistic)
Florals
SJ (traditional)
Florals
Soft Florals
Mossy Woods-

Intriguing, eh? David Pybus analyses the results on his site but he concludes nevertheless with a very thought-provoking question that leads to discussion: "Intuitive thought may lead us to believe that an introvert would use quiet, discrete perfumes, such as soft florals, whilst an extrovert would employ more strident aromatic brands if the use of perfumes was directed at self- enjoyment and character” stamping”. However, perhaps the reverse may be true? That extroverts use softer fragrances to damp down their personality, whilst introverts use the more strident brands to better project their presence. Indeed, is the use of perfume for a person’s outer (influencing others) or inner (influencing themselves) world?"

Read the whole article on this link.

And what do YOU think? Do you know your Myers Briggs type and does it fit the above choices? (If you don't you can take the test here).

thanks to Basenotes for drawing my attention to the article on Scents of Time.