Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Chloé Eau de Fleurs The collection ~Lavande, Capucine, Neroli: new fragrances

A new floral chapter begins with the upcoming Chloé Eau de Fleurs collection: three scents inspired by classic flowers, Lavande, Capucine, Néroli, and encased in similar architectural bottles, distinguishable by the shade of their jus and the raw material they're referencing (Reminds you of niche "collections"? Thought so!). Let's see them one by one:

Chloé Eau de Fleurs Lavande - Lavender or Lavandula officinalis

An absolute echo of masculine fragrances, lavender has always inspired perfumer Domitille Bertier (IFF). “When I close my eyes and breathe in lavender essence, I imagine sheets drying in the sun and the freshness of summer days. I’ve wanted to create a women’s lavender fragrance for a long time.” Thus, when the Artistic Director of Chloé, Hannah MacGibbon, asked her to compose a feminine fragrance based on this androgynous material, Domitille was guided by her longstanding dream. “I used one of the noblest lavenders of our palette”. This essence was fractioned to lighten its coumarin base note. Without this almond-like aspect, it becomes an evanescent and airy aura of lavender. “I wanted a simple signature, the impression of an eau fraîche with a real perfume structure.” On the skin, the lavender of Chloé eau de fleurs Lavande seems herbaceous and tinged with citrus, alongside violet and bergamot leaves. Then, a tea accord prolongs the presence of bergamot into the heart of the formula. Lavender delicately transforms. The iris concrete gives it this verticality. Finally, musk envelops the allure in sweetness, while cedar, vetiver and cashmeran fuse with the ambergris accord to give a sensual tempo to the composition. An olfactory challenge that puts lavender back into the feminine field of possibilities.

Chloé eau de fleurs capucine - Nasturtium or Tropaeolum majus

With its interlocked leaves and petals, the nasturtium closely guards its secrets. One must dream and fantasize about it to see its presence in a perfumed composition. “I like the simplicity of this flower, which grows in my garden,” admits Louise Turner (Givaudan). “It seems to come straight from an antique botany book or herbarium.” Louise is inspired by her knowledge of wild gardens. She blends refreshing citrus – bergamot, lemon and neroli – with galbanum essence. A concentration of chic, this rarely used crisp green note offers a timeless inflexion to the fragrance. Behind this dense foliage of galbanum and sage, Louise adds a few aromatic touches of juniper berry, like a reference to a man’s wardrobe. And, at this moment, the petals begin to blossom on the skin. An impressionist sensation of faceted flowers of rose essence, rose absolute, jasmine and lily of the valley enwraps the heart of the formula like a mist from an unknown origin. Finally, ambroxan – a sensual and woody amber ingredient – melds with cottony musk to form a comforting halo. .

Chloé eau de fleurs néroli - Neroli or Citrus aurantium var. amara

Immediately recognizable, neroli essence makes everyone smile. Nostalgic of childhood, it diffuses its freshness in numerous perfumery compositions. This also makes it difficult to use: “We had to make the eau de fleurs néroli unique and prevent it from smelling like a baby care product,” explains perfumer Aliénor Massenet (IFF). “I have this very striking memory of a trip to Tunisia, when I walked through a field of bitter orange trees in blossom. And I dreamt of a vibrant, modern and noble neroli.” Surprising one and all, Aliénor Massenet decided to combine mandarin and orange in the head note with a typically masculine aromatic note: rosemary. This explosive dry herb underlines the bitterness of citrus fruit. At the heart of the formula, an exceptional high-quality neroli is swirled into an accord of peony petals and clary sage. With its fresh, spicy, floral and tobacco-like aspect, sage reveals tea accents that raise neroli to the height of modernity. Smitten with amber notes, Aliénor blends white musk, a trace of Tonka bean and an overdose of amber in the drydown for a “bare skin” sensation, along with unexpected, masculine cedar wood. Sweet, yet never innocent, floral and woody, fresh and sunny all at once.

Available from February 2010 exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue and Chloé boutiques, 100ml for $135.00
info &pics via press release


  1. Elena,

    Just tried the Capucine last night (the Neroli was nice but not that distinctive, imo - I like lots of other citruses way better) - I'm still on the fence here - none of them are bad in any way, shape or form but all of them seem to lack definition. Then again, I measured Capucine against vintage Vent Vert and No. 19 so perhaps I am being unfair.

    Hope all is well with you?

    xo Anita

  2. Hi Anita!!

    Thanks for asking, very well indeed but up to my ears in work! LOL!

    Really, eh? This is the info I got but of course I could only pronounce an informed opinion after careful testing writing down all of my impressions one phase after another. The Capucine and Neroli personally interested me more. Then again, neroli is a note I have found a couple of jackpots on, so...


  3. Ah, I must try the Capucine - Nasturtium is one of my favorite flowers. And galbanum has been my favorite note forever.

    I don't remember ever noticing this line before - have I just been failing to pay attention?

  4. The main Chloe is a triumph of style over substance I think- and they could have taken the opportunity to have something really good but still appealing. Lots of my friends who don't really like perfume like it but just because it's pinkish and has a good bottle I'm sure.

    Anyway I am curious about these- the Neroli would have to be remarkable to tempt me- it's been done so much and I imagine so much better.

    The lavender sounds well made and like passion went into it- again I am of the opinion there are lots of good herbal lavenders out there but you might have to wear a mens scent to access them which not everyone wants to do. I am quite happy to wear a dash of them though! that said a really nice feminine lavender would be a good all round perfume.

    The green sounds the most interesting- I have not smelt that material and am very curious. I love galbanum but it needs to be used well to not over power or dominate doesn't it. Still a trendy fashion house with a new green scent is a nice thing to see.

  5. Anonymous16:07

    I am really wanting to try all 3 - sounds like they would be perfect for the upcoming warmer weather.

    I am not a fan of the new Chloe so am hoping that I have better luck with the Eau de Fleurs collections.


  6. CF,

    Capucine was the one I was most interested as well!

    No, not a new "house" or anything. It's just a "line" within the Chloe fashion designing brand. The one which redid the classic Chloe and made it into laundry-detergent-frag? That one! ;-)

  7. K,

    LOL, I think you're 100% accurate. See my comment above to Chicken Freak. ;-)

    I believe greens are knowing a resurgence. Probably a combinationg of the "green" move in ecology, food etc. combined with tiredness from all the fruities and the gourmands.

  8. Dagney,

    they do sound like they would be nice for summer. I recall Kenzo did a similar thing which I had written about with his trio collection based on magnolia, silk flower and ...what was it? Anyway, it should be easy to find if you search on the site panel for Kenzo and Fleur collection.

    I like to see more greens!

  9. Anonymous16:04

    Yes, I really enjoyed your review of the Kenzo Fleur de Eaux collection as well. The other one was tea and created by Francis K. I remember them being too light for me when I first tested but with spring coming up, I'm wanting to give them another try.

    Yes, I like to see more green also!


  10. Anonymous17:07

    Ooops, the tea one is by A Guichard.....not Francis K.



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