Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Smelling like dead celebrities?

"If you ever wanted to smell like Elvis or Marilyn Monroe? Now you can. According to the Daily News, a company in Beverly Hills is formulating a line of "antiquity" fragrances. The scents are based on the DNA of dead celebrities. Bottles of the perfume are sold online for about $60. Other celeb scents include Albert Einstein, Michael Jackson and Richard Nixon". [quote]



Nah....just go participate in our Perfumista Challenge Project.

CK ad manipulated by freakingnews.com

The Perfumista Challenge: A Project to Spread to those you Know

Sometimes one needs to shout in order to be heard. Sometimes one needs to kick people in the shin to get their attention. Sometimes one just needs to grab a public venue and challenge people in their perceptions in a much more civilised way. Which is what I am going to do today and I am calling every one of you who has been fed up to the brim with all the trashola that has been circulating under glossy names of TV personae and celebritoids from Sillyville and Trollopburg.
Namely today I am proposing and inviting you to the ultimate strikeback: Let's produce some fragrant juice ourselves!

No, I am not delirious. What are the chances that some amateur perfumista back in the wings has actually created a blend that is better than the bleh stuff in pretty (and not so pretty) bottles? Pretty high, I'd wager. After all, perfumistas do know a thing or two about what takes to put a nice sniff-fest together and hey, wait, didn't artisanal perfumers start with the proviso that they're blending things to suit their own taste? I am sure some of you have several oils which you mix for private enjoyment, some have a frustrated perfumer's soul, some even have chemistry kits and know a thing or two about reactions, emulsifiers and grape vs. grains alcohol; but the beauty of it all is you needn't really worry, this is not a race who is better, it's more for the fun of the thing and to prove to ourselves we can do it. (In the words of Dominique Dubrana, who's lauded by dr. Luca Turin, the biggest perfumery secret is that it's "rather easy to create something nice". There, you have insider's encouragement). Who knows, maybe someone's creation might be as good as to actually see the light of day in a wider circle and become our shared secret! Imagine the possibilities: Sillage de la Perfumista, Aqua sniffaholica, Εαρινή δρόσος φιλάρεσκων δεσποινίδων, et al... Not to mention the thrill of feeling of creating your own Galateia...

The idea was shaped by Liisa Wennervirta, following a discussion on Perfume Shrine about D-celebrities (or even DD-celebrities in some cases) constantly issuing utterly forgettable "products", who is in turn organising the whole thing. She's one hell of a witty lass with the quirk to bring this into fruition -she's been dabbling in blends herself- and you can be sent to her by me without reservations. [One doesn't need to be part of the clique to be perfectly legit ;-) ]

So here is how she wants this to be: "There'll be a simple swap round. Every participant will submit their address and they'll get another one where they'll send their creation. I wouldn't oblige the recipients to write a review or comment but it would be more fun if they did. To join the bunch of swappers, mail me at rosa (dot) pendulina (at) yahoo (dot) se. Closing date for participation submissions is December 31st."
If you'd like to take the info on your own blog or on a forum you participate, feel free to do so (and we would be grateful to you): the more participation we have, the more chances we can discover a raw talent in the dirt and the more fun we will all have in the process.

Now spread this to everyone you know times 10 or your precious rare Guerlain Baccarats will crumble in thin dust and your Chanels will turn into fermented beer on a hellishly hot day. Spread it! Participate! I have spoken...

Pic of Peter Cushing via umad.com, shot from Fritz Lang's Metropolis via dvdtimes.co.uk

Sunday, November 15, 2009

The winners of the draw....

...for the free bottles of CKfree are Orchidfae and Michael K. Congrats!!

Please email me with your shipping addresses using the contact email in profile so I can forward it to the company (which will have these in the mail for you).
Thanks for playing everyone and till the next one!

Christmas '09 Gifts Ideas: Jo Malone

Jo Malone is spoiling us rotten this Christmas with nifty gifts and sets encased in their delicious waffle-like, chic packaging. Here is the round-up for your ease, take notes:



TEA BOX DELUXE CANDLE COLLECTION A suite of three Deluxe Candles are presented in a stately cream-coloured box accompanied with a silver-plated wick trimmer, candle snuffer and key. The Collection features Eau De Cologne, Parma Violets and Sweet Almond Macaroon Deluxe Candles; each candle includes an engraved Jo Malone Candle Lid. 3x400g for 395 $US

SCENTED TRAVEL CANDLES Add the finishing touches to your home by decorating the interior with the delicious scents of Amber & Sweet Orange, Grapefruit, Lime Blossom and Orange Blossom. Sold individually the travel candles are easy to get anyplace to add an ambience of style, sophistication and warmth in any room. Each Candle is 60g for 35$


COLOGNE COLLECTION The Cologne Collection celebrates the artistry of scent through six colognes in small atomisers in a luxurious box, allowing perfume lovers to get to know the Jo Malone line intimately. The scents may be worn alone or layered to create unique combinations. The collection includes Grapefruit, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Pomegranate Noir, Sweet Lime & Cedar, Lime Basil & Mandarin and White Jasmine & Mint. 6 sprays x 9ml for 95$

BATH OIL COLLECTION An invitation to unwind via aroma. Six glass decanterswith six different scents to be used alone or in comvination. The collection includes Grapefruit, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Pomegranate Noir, Sweet Lime & Cedar, Lime Basil & Mandarin and White Jasmine & Mint. 6 vials x30ml for 85$

LIME BASIL & MANDARIN fRAGRANCE CHRONICLE™ The Lime Basil & Mandarin fragrance Chronicle™ is a new idea: Combine accords to the classic rich citrus formula embellished with notes of aromatic herbs and sensual woods to create your very own compelling signature scent. Transform Lime Basil & Mandarin with the accords of Mandarin, Sweet Basil and Amberwood. The Chronicle includes Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne 30ml, Mandarin Cologne Accord 9ml, Sweet Basil Cologne Accord 9ml, Amberwood Cologne Accord 9ml, all for 95$.

POMEGRANATE NOIR PAMPER KIT The limited-edition Pamper Kit includes Bath Oil, Shimmer Body Powder and Body Crème, all with the mysterious, regal scent of Pomegranate Noir.
Presented in the Jo Malone signature gift box the kit includes Bath Oil Glass Decanter 200ml, Shimmer Body Powder with Ultra Luxe Puff 70g, and Body Crème 175ml for 245$

POMEGRANATE NOIR DELUXE CANDLE Combining the sweet, fruity notes of raspberry, pink pepper and pomegranate with patchouli, frankincense and spicy woods, it comes with an engraved Jo Malone Candle Lid presented in a Jo Malone signature gift box. 400g for 130$

PINE & EUCALYPTUS COLLECTION Savor the season with Pine & Eucalyptus, a limited-edition scent from Jo Malone. The crisp aroma of pine is entwined with velvety eucalyptus to evoke the sense of winter. The Collection includes: Bath Soaps 3 x 100g 50$, Bath Oil 250ml 60$, Living Cologne 200ml for 95$, Home Candle 200g for 65$, Luxury Candle 2.5kg for 345$

Available at Jo Malone Shops, http://www.jomalone.com/, Bergdorf Goodman and in select Neiman Marcus and Saks fifth Avenue stores.

Info via press release. Pic of Christmas display via katie-d-i-d.blogspot.com

Friday, November 13, 2009

Caleche Fleurs de Mediteranee: reissue by Hermes

Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée, a variation on the classic Calèche is being re-issued by the house of Hermès for spring 2010. The till now discontinued fragrance, a limited edition in only 2500 bottles from 2003, is being brought back, as a line-up contestant alongside the many lovely variations on the classic Calèche (three of them being Kelly Calèche in all its concentrations of Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Parfum; all four versions were composed by Jean Claude Ellena, in-house perfumer)

Hermes presents it as "A voyage in a bottle. Perfume and wind know no barriers: they travel freely through air and over sea. In Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée, a warm breeze glides over the Mediterranean basin, delicately grazing the fragile white stars of Egyptian jasmine, rustling the skirts of the Turkish damascena rose, stroking the sunbathed blooms of Moroccan mimosa. Calèche, so characteristically elegant, so undeniably classic, reaffirms its femininity with Egyptian jasmine and Turkish rose. The Soie de Parfum of Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée plays with a daring hint of violet leaf, giving an invigorating tartness to its initially light, fruity scent. Joyously enlivened by a fresh breath of mimosa, it incarnates a youthful fragility, a distinctly contemporary clarity rounded to perfection by a gentle touch of heliotrope and beeswax – an echo of the powdery, honey-sweet note of mimosa absolute'.

Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée is therefore centered around that early spring yellow wonder, mimosa, "a precious yellow oil imbued with an airy yet sensual scent of astonishing softness and presence. 'Golden puffs, the downy tufts of new-born chicks," wrote the poet Francis Ponge in Le Mimosa. "The minuscule golden chicks of mimosa...", "powdered like Pierrot the pantomime in his yellow polka-dots”, “fireworks”, “tiny torches alight"...' [quote Francis Ponge , “ LE MIMOSA ” In La Rage de l’expression © Édition Gallimard . Authorised translation by Hermes, courtesy of editions Gallimard ~Fragrantica]

Available in Soie (Eau) de Parfum from Hermès boutiques as a pre-release.

News via Michelyn Camen Pic via Fragrantica

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Chandler Burr Scent Dinner in New York City

If you're in New York City this December and with an appetite of combining scent learning and fine cuisine, another scent dinner organised by Chandler Burr is waiting for you.
The details are:

December 2, 2009 Scent Dinner
Two menus, one olfactory, created by Chandler Burr, The New York Times scent critic, and one culinary, created by Fabio Trabocchi, Exec. Chef of The Four Seasons Restaurant.

The Four Seasons Restaurant
99 East 52nd St.
(b/t Park & Lex)
New York NY 10022
212 754 9494

In the Pool Room. 7pm
Business Attire $250 per person, all inclusive

For Reservations please call or email:
Regina
212.759.9008
Regina@FourSeasonsRestaurant.com

Helena Rubinstein Wanted: fragrance review

Helena Rubinstein proposed that Wanted "unveils the ineffable and mysterious link that binds a woman to her love, a woman to her desires, a woman to her fragrance". Supposedly the name derives from the advertising phrase "All you've ever wanted" (Yeah, like another PhD, a second summer house, this one on Santorini so I don't end up paying exorbitant prices when there, and my offspring to behave at all times...fat chance I'll get! Anyway...)

The daring muse for Rubinstein's first foray in fragrance in 25 years (last one was the rococo typical of its era Barynia in 1985) is none other than Demi Moore, who I suppose is more daring for her choice of a much younger soulmate than anything else (no offence meant, just pondering on the "dare" factor these days). When all is said and done, more power to her and I have to note I always liked that, despite whatever procedure she has had done, she never plumped up her lips the way so many Hollywood stars do ending up like trouts. In the advertising commercial she showcases her best assets (come-hither eyes, great shape) and does a sexy speak-over with her husky, suggestive voice dressed in a Donna Karan look-alike dress (which if my memory serves me well had been her hit a decade ago).

On the other hand Wanted is daring to the degree that a chicken and asparagus casserole can be described as such: surely a nice combination of flavours, but not unheard of and the only folks who won't touch it with a six-feet pole are small children (and even then...). Likewise Wanted recalls to mind shades of Dolce & Gabanna's The One, in a lighter, more citrusy incarnation, and woodier rather than fruity-orientalised; stepping from the sauna with a lovely peignoir on the colour of cream, all pores cleansed and exctracted (the lily of the valley touches of "scrubbed clean" along with what I deduce are white musks at the base).
Magnolia grandiflora is shaping to be the newest iris (i.e. a huge trend) and after a dearth of florals in favour of gourmands, it seems they're getting back with a vengeance, possibly as a result of the mega hit of J'Adore by Dior which also features magnolia. In Wanted it's a fantasiacal accord of woody and creamy-floral facets (a special LMR extraction of ylang ylang) with a radiant dose of sugar spun crystals sprinkled on and an acqueous feel, which was inspired by a stay at Portofino of all places. It's certainly sweeter than Magnolia Nobile by Aqua di Parma. Perfumers Dominique Ropion and Carlos Benaim of IFF figured women who turned to their favourite cosmetics brand would expect a comforting, polished and rather delicate composition, like pampered face cream (similar approach in Eau de Fleur de Magnolia by Kenzo), that wouldn't have any hard edges, nor operatic throw-cushions the way white flowers are by their very nature rendered (and doesn't Ropion have tremendous experience with those!). Therefore fans of apocalyptical awe-inspiring florals will be disappointed, consumers with an eye on wearability will make it popular.

The bottle, designed by internationally renowned French jewels and furniture designer Hervé van der Straeten is elegant and striking in a industrial-sleekness-meets-1er arrondissement-sophistication , although the material doesn't look as luxurious up close and personal. (Or maybe I'm just extremely picky)





Notes for Helena Rubinstein Wanted: magnolia, ylang ylang and iris over cedar

Helena Rubinstein Wanted is available as Eau de Parfum 1.7 fl. oz. for $60/50ml for €70, Eau de Parfum 3.4 fl. oz. for $80/ 100ml for €100 and Body Lotion 6.6 fl. oz., $45; exclusively at Macy's from November 5th and at major department stores in Europe.


Pic of Demi Moore via cosmetic candy, Wanted bottle pic via bwconfidential.com

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Ormonde Jayne 10% off the whole line

Come and see falling snow along London's Old Bond Street, rickshaw sleighs, Father Christmas, carol singers, musicians, bell ringers, roasted chestnuts and entertainers in period costume, all organised by the Bond Street Association.
You're invited at Ormonde Jayne for a glass of champagne and mince pies on:
Thursday 19th November from 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm
(12 The Royal Arcade28 Old Bond StreetLondon W1T. 0207 499 1100)
Bring this invitation along with you to receive a 10% discount on the night or shop online on Thursday the 19th November and receive a 10% discount by entering the promotional code 'NOEL' in the checkout page.
Joyeux Noël.

Info via press release.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Anya's Garden Moondance and Starflower: fragrance reviews (& a draw!)

When the well-trodden becomes anew there is reason for joy. If certain white flowers have always seem unatainable to you, if you found yourself avoiding tuberose for reasons too complicated to unfold, all naturals indie brand Anya's Garden has two aces up her sleeves: Moondance and Starflower, two unconventional new fragrances that ~in typical Anya style~ will surprise you!

In the words of Anya McCoy in Moondance "water mint is underfoot as you dance among the violets and tuberose, as apple herb and roses sing softly".
The ethereal touch of violets opens with a trompe l'oeil touch of the mint: is it there or isn't it? "This is not the direction toothpaste is going", I said to myself, when testing, as the familiar cold-on-a-hot-tongue feeling of industrial-strength fake mint didn't register. Yet, prompted by my desire to locate it, after reading the notes, I paid more attention and it is there if very subtly: But how strange! It only maxes out the dryad feeling of the woody-orris violets into cool green pistas! Herbal scents are difficult to harness, because they seem to project at a frequency that registers them either in the culinary (lamb chops roast) or the marginally aromatherapeutic: think tisanes and hot compresses. Yet, in Moondance the chamomille reminds one of nothing of the sort. Instead it fuses with the Rose de Mai absolute and the natural alpha ionone isolates (i.e.violet) into a synergistic ritual dance in the forest under, you guessed it, a full moon. Tuberose only hints at its presence, if you're not specifically searching for it, you might not realise that it is delicately weaved in here: its bombastic nature is well-behaved for once, like a loud, overactive child who is mesmerised briefly by the shooting stars into silence, as furry animals watch from a distance (Anya used hyrax tincture and hyrax absolute to render this fuzzy animalic comfort blanket). The general ambience is not unlike Isabel Doyen's creation for Les Nez The Unicorn Spell (which is similarly unisex) and lovers of the latter should definitely give a try to Moondance! My only gripe would be its relatively short lasting power, which means that you could use it on a scarf or ~even better~ a leather band on your wrist (How utterly charming! Why should Kurkdjian have all the fun?)

If your tastes do not run into the timid, but you're set for no-limits throttle, full-on speed, then Starflower is more your thing, and by Jove, ain't it mine! Anya McCoy presents floral gourmand Starflower as "candy flower, dreamy and steamy, almond cherry, chocolate and tuberose bring Mexico to you". A Mexican delicasy doesn't even begin to describe it, as luscious chocolate, allied to beautiful, slightly camphoraceous but oh-so-good-it-hurts patchouli (and possibly a maple touch) tempt the taste buds before the nostrils claim all the pleasure. There is nothing of the sanitised patchouli that mainstream brands churn out by the bucketload aiming at the fatigued nose-velcro of urbanites burned out on the Angel-doused armpits of commuters. This is the spirited love affair of rich essences which do not succumb but to the skillful hands of a certain Miami shores artisanal perfumer. The result in Starflower is oddly animalic, deep, incredibly lasting for an all-naturals perfume, and somewhat buttyric: Indeed a CO2 butter essence is hiding under the narcotically-scented tuberose (rendered into her edible vestige, posing for a screen-test with Marcolini and melting into a pool of cream). Anya reveals: "I first became aware of its use in ice cream from an 18th Century book Encarnación's Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California, and further research showed its use in other sweet desserts. My perfume musings got me to thinking, well, let's see how it would pair with vanilla and chocolate, two other tasty and fragrant offerings from Mexico." I can only say that Starflower should come with a cautionary label attached: "Restrain application or you're seriously risking at having your arms (or other body parts) nibbled on!"

A small precaution if I may would be to sample Moondance before indulging in Starflower, so as not to suffocate the more ethereal into the more full-bodied, much as one would do when tasting wines of different attributes, and cork-off them for a couple of minutes before sniffing (as all-naturals are famous for being too intense to fully grasp at first).
Moondance and Starflower are
available from Anya's Garden, in parfum extrait ($75 and $60) and an Eau de Parfum ($125 and $100) or $5 per sample.

Anya had the generosity of sending me two ample samples of the expensive scents for a lucky reader, along with those I sampled for reviewing. Enter a comment if you want to be in the drawing!

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Natural scents and perfumers, Tuberose scents

Painting The Fairy Lovers by Theodore von Holst via touch of vaudeville. Women of Mexico Girclee print via fashionfling.blogspot.com.

Avery Gilbert talks to Katie Puckrik



Very interesting interview: cute, relevant questions, non-technical, accurate replies.

How to rekindle your sex life through perfume

"If your wife smells of ikan keropok, try telling her in the nicest way possible that she stinks. If you want to see your wife wearing some sexy lingerie “once in a while” (remember what happens when familiarity sets in), go out and buy her something alluring. If you think sex is boring with your partner, you might want to ask yourself what you’re doing about it. After all, it usually takes two. Dousing a fish cracker with perfume will only make it smell like a fish cracker with perfume".

The high divorce rate in Terengganu (attributed to "body odour, humdrum sex and boring pyjamas") is prompting the local government into approaching big firms to come up with “exotic and sensuous fragrances that can arouse sexual desire.” Mary Schneider on TheStar.com argues that companies surely have been going that exact same route for ages; and that perfume doesn't really change anything in a relationship that has communication or stagnation problems. Does it? Be vocal with your stories!!


Read the whole article on this link on The Star.com.

Pic of Sean Connery and Daniella Bianchi from From Russia with Love via virginmedia.

This Month's Popular Posts on Perfume Shrine