Everyone is coming out with a "collection of scents", so why not Kenzo?
The new Kenzo Les Eaux De Fleurs Collection includes three floral fragrant waters inspired by Japan and created upon silk-tree flower, tea blooms and magnolia blossoms, called respectively Eau de Fleur de Soie (silk), Eau de Fleur de Thé (tea) and Eau de Fleur de Magnolia (magnolia). The plan is to add a new flower each year. What ties them? An ethereal floralcy, delicate transparence and subtlety. One might call them inoffensive. Also, they're by no means soliflores (ie. fragrances which focus on replicating the smell of a single flower). These limited editions are available in transparent bottles of a uniform design presented in different colours: pink for silk flower (as the flowers indeed resemble pink ventailles), green for tea flowers and whitish-yellow for magnolia blossom.
They all cost 52 euros for 50ml of Eau de Toilette at Sephora which is where I tested them myself.
Eau De Fleur de Soie (silk-tree blossom) is created in cooperation with perfumer Jean Jacques as a velvety, nonchalant floral-fruity of silk blossom with fruity accents in the heart of the fragrance. Very light and airy, it progressively becomes a little "thick" with an orientalised wink.
Eau De Fleur de Thé (tea blossom) is created by perfumer Aurélien Guichard and is the most unisex of the lot. The tea blossom is garlanding a heart of bitter notes of inky tea, finishing on a musky trail. It seem to be inspired by two of Bulgari's tea fragrances: Eau parfumée au thé vert (green tea) and Eau parfumée au thé blanc (white tea). The tea note eschews the green apple variety "green tea" accord which floods the market, but instead has a realistic tannic, a little inky green tea leaves tonality complimented with lime and white musk.
Eau De Fleur de Magnolia (magnolia blossom) is created in cooperation with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and marries citrus, non-sweet accents to the complimentary radiant lemony facets of creamy magnolia blossoms, giving off a posh soapy feel. The lingering note is one of woodiness, when the floral notes have but vanished into thin air.
None of the above wowed me beyong the "perfectly nice, if rather unmemorable", which is a shame really, because I quite like the Kenzo portfolio on the whole: Kenzo Summer is a delicious and sensual creamy mimosa and milky musks concoction to dispell any dark thought with its bright yellow halo. Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant is a trusted spicy-fruity oriental that sets one apart. Kenzo Parfum d'été had been the green aqueous floral of one of several summers ago spent on Cyprus island. Kenzo Flower is a best-seller for a reason: it re-introduces the violet and powder note to an audience who is urban and quirky; not exactly the Victoriana envisioned by other traditional brands. Its spins (Flower le Parfum and Flower Oriental) are rather interesting as well! Kenzo Amour captures the comforting scent of a rice milky pudding tasted after reading bed-time stories. Even Kenzo Homme has something about its aromatic woodiness in the midst of vast spaces of water that keeps my interest for a little while.
The new collection Eaux de Fleurs should provide enjoyment to those who want a pretty spring or summer fragrance with a soft ambience about it without requiring further thinking on their part. If pressed I would choose Eau de Fleur de Magnolia for its creamy touch bearing a slight wink to Santa Maria Novela's individual Calycanthus refreshing élan, with Eau de Fleur de The as a second choice for its bitter accents although all three are quite pleasant.
They are all available at Amazon now: Eau de Fleur de Soie, Eau de Fleur de The, Eau de Fleur de Magnolia for 55$.
Pic via Kenzo