Teo Cabanel Alahine: fragrance review

Alahine (2007) by Parfums Téo Cabanel literally smoulders in the guise of an ode to ylang ylang and amber, composed like a palimpsest of orientalia: the lushness of the flowers, cut with a smidgen of citric tang (usually the uber-classic bergamot), then fanned on resinous notes that deepen to a tawny iridescence has brought us spectacular fragrances from Shalimar to Bal à Versailles, all the way through Boucheron Femme. Alahine was apparently inspired by Arabian palaces (located in Spain I'd wager) and its solar energy is weaved in an virtual arabesque of luminous, warm notes.


Technically the concept isn't new: The same treatment of the ylang-ylang salicylate-rich blossom is given in Estee Lauder Private Collection Amber Ylang-Ylang: a medicinal amber that sweetens via the florals and leaves a somewhat powdery finish on drydown. Another tawny amber is played in a same style (but more violet-tinged and darker) in Attrape Coeur by Guerlain, also known as Guet Apens. Interestingly the Lauder came out one year after the Cabanel. Still, neither can claim laurels of originality. The main difference nevertheless between the two is how the Lauder projects almost linear, with a persistent two-tone melody to it (enjoyable for anyone who wants what they want, mind you!), and a boozier-saltier amber progression; while the Cabanel is falling from top to heart to base like on a billowy mattress. Even though they're both lush and sexy feminine, thanks to their floriental ambience, a judicious man could benefit from a spritz of Alahine strategically placed. Come to think of it, Sensuous (again by Lauder) is another one men after an ambery fragrance should try. Compared with Amber Ylang Ylang, the Cabanel is more upscale and smells more expensive. It's what people usually refer to as a "sweater scent", denoting a comforting, nuzzling composition that performs especially well in cooler weather and northern climes which seem like its natural habitat. Yet, I bet the tropicalia of its flowery heart would be equally perfect during cool summer evenings when it would blossom sexily if used with restraint on warmed-up belly skin. The fragrance is beautifully poised between East and West, between the dainty quality of Dresden china and the arabesque exoticism of Mecca artefacts, to warrant a place in many perfume lovers' collection.


Alahine opens on a cascade of sizzling and rather medicinal bergamot-ylang-ylang chord, which isn't miles removed from the mandarin-frangipani start undescored by benzoin-rich and patchouli-spiked amber of Chanel's classic Coco from 1984. Indeed they show a comparable bravado into appearing haughty at first, while being utter purr-kittens later on. Coco is spicier and has a powdered-chocolate note which also appeared more than a decade later in Coromandel. Angela of NST proclaims "the result is a ylang ylang crème brûlée lightened with rose and dusted with powder". The resinous quality of Alahine is persistent though, the amber never becoming completely powdery despite the orris touch, nor totally milky-comforting (which one would think would be the result of the sandalwood plus vanilla). A small musty facet which reveals itself through rose plus patchouli is totally brilliant amidst the oriental formula. This is probably its coup de grace, as it engulfs you into an embrace that can still be a little dangerous and fanged, despite the languid exotica.

Kudos to Thédore Cabanel's heir Caroline Ilacqua (the goddaughter of his own daughter) who has indisputably excelled where other upstarts in niche have blundered, when "re-starting" her firm in 2005 (The press kit by Cabanel mentions their first eaux pour le mouchoir were composed in Algeria in the 1890s and they relocated in Paris in 1903): Classical structure, top notch ingredients (not all-natural, though as claimed online, but still with a quite high ratio without doubt), an approachable but not yawn-inducing formula, seamless but perceptible progression & opening-up like a fine cognac. Their other fragrances, also composed by Jean François Latty (creator of Givenchy III, Yves Saint Laurent pour Homme, Tsar, Eau Dynamissante and Drakkar among others), are also very good: Teo Cabanel's Oha is a rose-moss chypre that has nothing to be jealous of from other classics in the genre, while their Julia is a graceful floral fit for princesses. Latty's motto has been "quality doesn't mix with compromise". It's reassuring to know classical perfumery is still revered enough to prolong itself into the 21st century.


Notes for Teo Cabanel Alahine:
Top notes: bergamot and ylang ylang
Heart notes: Bulgarian rose, Moroccan rose, orange blossom, jasmine, and pepper plant
Base notes: iris concrete, cistus, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, and musk.

Alahine by Teo Cabanel is available in Eau de Parfum through Luckyscent and other etailers (at advantageous prices), also somewhat discounted on Reirien.com. It's also available in Concrète de Parfum (solid perfume) and Parfum Extrait in 15 ml/0.5oz. More info on the official site of Cabanel.

For our French-speaking readers, an interesting interview with the president, Caroline Ilacqua on Youtube linked here.

All photos copyrighted by Elena Vosnaki. Click to enlarge.

Teen-angst in Perfume Form (My World by Justin Bieber)

Teen singing sensation Justin Bieber shas paired with Etoile Nation Beauty, to create a new line of fragrances! Hold your horses, dear readers. The unisex juice "My World" is not only going to be something that will get you out of your My Little Pony comfort zone, it also comes in the form of scent-infused wristbands and dog tags, according to WWD. Because admit it: You always wanted to be seen as a tough marine with your dog tag hanging over your wife-beater, wafting some teenage fruit-salad scent!

The unconventional approach [sic] is fitting for the pop star, who catapulted to fame after posting homemade videos of himself singing on YouTube. Bieber, who plays the drums, guitar, piano and trumpet, is learning the notes of the fragrance game, too. Before a concert Friday evening at Arco Arena in Sacramento, Calif., Bieber told WWD over instant message that he spent part of the day smelling different scents. "Slated to launch in Wal-Mart stores just in time for the Holidays on Black Friday, the line is clearly targeting the singer’s teenage demographic." No shit, Sherlock!
“They actually brought me a bunch of stuff to smell today,” he said. “One of them smelled too young, too fruity. One was really good.”

WWD continues: "The ongoing phenomenon of the pop star is the reason Etoile hooked up with him. As Michael Ferrara, president of Etoile, a company formed this fall, said, “This Justin Bieber juggernaut is never going to end. Justin is a total grassroots phenomenon.” You wish, I say! And regarding longevity: Have these people never heard of Jordy Lemoine? Or Macaulay Culkin for that matter?
Bieber, his manager Scooter Braun and Universal Music Group, which owns Bieber’s record label Island Records, are partners in the new venture. The fragrance, named after the singer’s current tour, is embedded into a patented resin technology designed to hold the scent for at least one year. “The resin delivers the scent in a way that is every bit as good as a juice,” said Ferrara, who prior to Etoile was a senior marketing executive at Coty Inc.
What did the crooning coed say was his favorite female fragrance already on the market? “I actually like the Britney Spears perfume on girls,” he admitted to WWD. “It smells good.” What did you expect? Anyway, the kid is a little boy, we will be lenient on this one and not roast him over open flame.

pic via wwd

Scent Used as a Political Weapon?

"Republican Van Tran, the upstart challenger to Rep. Loretta Sanchez (D-Calif.), is betting on voters sniffing out his opponent's struggles -- literally. " Thus begins a small article on the National Journal which describes how the politician is sending out direct mail which targets Sanchez with its scratch-and-sniff which emanates a horrible odour comprised of the combination of some of the worst possible odours imaginable (according to a GOP source). The mailer says "Open for a fragrance sample of "Loretta, The Scent Of Washington." while on the inside the text reads "Something smells rotten about Loretta. It's the stench of Washington." Below that is the actual scratch and sniff panel.

I guess after scent being used to lure customers in and make them feel relaxed enough to make more purchases, digital scents carried through nanotechnology and scent being used to attract potential mates, it was time someone thought about it in reverse and used it as a powerful weapon of all the wrong associations...It remains to be seen what the voters will do.

Check it out at this link.

Christy Turlington: new face for Avon

Supermodel of the 90s and successful business-woman Christy Turlington has signed up with cosmetics giant Avon to appear in their new fragrance Slip Into (Avon, that is), according to WWD.


Even though the phrase is usually used to denote something comfortable (and slinky), the new fragrance is supposedly seeking "to capture the transformative power of stepping into a high-heel shoe" (Why not just don the darn thing already?). Avon VP Vanessa Reggiardo explained, “The idea of transformation is a very exciting one. It’s really about that moment of slipping out of flats into high heels — that act that makes women feel more confident, more sexy and more sophisticated.” Christy added, “I can really admire [high heels] because I don’t wear them too often. I’m not one of the moms who wears heels when dropping the kids at school.” [source] The super-mom is notoriously dismissive of all the accoutrements of her profession and the fake "glamour" it perpetuates, especially as she emerged herself in the No Woman, No Cry documentary: "There's nothing rewarding about modeling. It was a fun opportunity that allowed me to see the world, but spiritually and intellectually there is nothing rewarding about the profession at all." [source]

Interestingly, there is a divide on the name: The fragrance will launch in Europe as Slip Into in January 2011, and roll out to Latin America in March 2011 under the name Step Sexy. It’s slated to hit North America as Step Into Sexy in October 2011, pushed aiming at the holiday selling season. There is a difference in pricing and concentration though: This Avon fragrance will be available globally as a 50ml. eau de toilette for $22.50 and in North America as an eau de parfum for $28.
As to the scent it's purported to be "an oriental floral by IFF, has top notes of blackberry, freesia and violet leaf; a heart of rosewood, violet and butterfly orchid, and a drydown of Cashmeran, sueded orris root and golden ambers. The bottle is inspired by the curve of a women’s calf as she slips into a high heel. " [source]

pic via jezebel

Montana Suggestion trio: Eau d'Argent, Eau d'Or, Eau Cuivree ~fragrance reviews

Years before niche perfumery came up with "collection of scents" in identical bottles and "concept" themes evolving around different families or notes, Claude Montana (the designer best known for his scalpel-cut jackets, the partner who flew off her verandah and Parfum de Peau) had proposed his own trio of fragrances, code-named Suggestion (1994). The triad included Eau d'Argent, Eau d'Or and Eau Cuivrée and came just 2 short years after Serge Lutens inaugaurated Les Salons du Palais Royal by Shiseido with his own iconoclastic "takes" on Féminité du Bois (in 1992), thus giving rise to a whole seperate eponymous line which became legendary at the drawing of the millenium. (Technically the first one to propose a "trio collection" should be Patou). The fragrances by Montana were ill-fated though, like the unlucky stars under which the designer and his muse were apparently born, and were eventually discontinued. Still, the dedicated perfume lover might profit from making their acquaintance, as they're both worthwhile sniffing, as well as a valuable lesson in fragrance history; seeing the mainstream launch of a "niche" concept commercially fail where others now succeed, with the hindsight of almost 2 decades in the passing between the two (see for instance La Prairie trying the same things with their Life Threads).



The common thread in all Montana Suggestion scents? A vague metallic nuance, bright, scintillating, radiant. The metals entering both the name and the bottle decoration are ample indication of it being intentional.

Suggestion Eau d'Argent is, judging by the packaging alone, one might say Pavlovian-like, equated with a cool aquatic floral; and it is! Composed by Max Gavarry, it pre-empties the notion of the dew-adorned ocean drenched lilies which later appeared in F.Malle's line under Lys Mediterranée. Of course the compass isn't showing the North ~or rather the South, as the Malle scent is so at home in the warm Provencial and Grecian air~ as accurately. Eau d'Argent is very good but not as masterful or daring (it lacks the salty, savoury touch). The scent of lily (and the aldehyde used for cyclamen renditions) is brought out to the fore through the use of lily-of-the-valley aromachemicals (read about those on this article) and underlined with a dewy, "clean" musky ambience plus Ambroxan. It feels much more legible and "kind" than the feminine L'Eau d'Issey, both being contemporaries with a dewy feel. It also probably gives a frist glimpse of the idea for Marc Jacobs's first eponymous scent, supposedly inspired by gardenias floating on a bowl of water. Substitute cool lilies and you're there! Very nice on its own ~controversial, let's admit it~ genre and completely unsung.
Top notes are greens, mandarin orange, violet, peach, bergamot and Brazilian rosewood; middle notes are cyclamen, lily, orchid, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are sandalwood, amber and musk.

Suggestion Eau d'Or was composed by Nathalie Lorson (who has composed the glorious Poivre 23, the Le Labo London city exclusive, which we reviewed on this page, amongst other things). A floral built on the juxtaposition of lactonic peachy and green notes with a heart of classic and bright flowers, this is a floral that radiates off the blotter and off the skin with quality and balanced approach to its message. The blossoming of jasmine and rose are supported by a fruity embrace of peach underscored by ionones (giving an earthy sweet note, also a bit of powder) and a creamy vanillic drydown, not too sweet. A floral, veering to floriental, with a cool-warm contrast that plays like chiaroscuro. Those who like J'Adore or Nuit de Cellophane might find another compliment-getter sunny floral in this one.
Top notes are comprised of greens, violet, peach, hyacinth and bergamot; middle notes are orchid, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla and cedar.

Suggestion Eau Cuivrée in its copper-dressed, patina-reminiscent bottle looks and feels warm and is predictably the more orientalised in the trio. Still, not quite a dense, traditional oriental, it features green-citrusy opening notes and a rich floral heart with a metallic nuance, justifying its coding: more modern urban amazone than Shalimar-wearing movie goddess, thanks to the base encompassing Ambroxan and cedar notes. Cooler, sweet top notes with lusty plum are folded into a warmer heart of luscious flowers and what seems like a hint of spice (they say carnation, it's actually built on cloves). The warmth is amped via the synergy of resinous notes played at the key of the lamentably defunct Theorema: meaning lightly, pleasurably balanced, never overwheling. Very pleasurable work, composed by Gerard Anthony.
Top notes are orange, pineapple, plum, green notes, peach and bergamot; middle notes are carnation, tuberose, orange blossom, orchid, jasmine, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla and cedar.

The scents had bottles which interlocked nicely in a round "plate", their sides touching like lovers or spirits-evoking-spiritualists sitting across a rounde table touching hands... They were sold as is or independently in Eau de Toilette concentration. They make sporadic appearences on auction sites and discounters.