Tuesday, March 9, 2010

The Plaza NYC introduces fragrance collection

You know there's something in perfume-as-the-new-It when hotels are launching their own fragrance lines...Costes was in the vanguard; now The Plaza is trodding in their footsteps with what seems like a lifestyle frag line.
The Plaza (www.ThePlaza.com), New York ’s iconic hotel, recently debuted a signature fragrance collection, fittingly titled The Plaza. The collection includes an eau de parfum, a candle, and soap (fittingly these are all exclusively sold at The Plaza Beauty at The Shops at The Plaza). There are plans to introduce additional exclusive scents to the hotel’s fragrance collection later this year.
The fragrance was created exclusively for The Plaza by one of the world’s "most celebrated perfumeries, Krigler, a 5th generation fragrance house" using "exceptional ingredients from around the world". The Plaza fragrance has top notes of bergamot, grapefruit, verbena heart, Texan cedar, oud, and iris, delicately balanced with undertones of amber, precious wood, and leather. The result they tell us is "an elegant bouquet that evokes the very essence of the landmark hotel – classic, timeless and romantic".
“We looked to The Plaza’s rich history situated on Central Park and Fifth Avenue to seek inspiration,” said Kristin Franzese, Executive Vice President, Retail. “The Plaza fragrance captures a moment in time. We wanted to create a modern scent that appeals to women who share the same dreams and aspirations inspired by the romance and classicism of one of New York ’s most iconic and glamorous destinations.”

New face for Cerruti 1881 for Men


The emblematic for the house of Cerruti fragrance Cerruti 1881 for Men (the date denoting the founding of the house of Cerruti) is set for a new advertising campaign starting June 2010 sponsored by the licencee Coty with a new, untarnished face that has never before been associated with beauty or perfumes: Marc Lavoine. The French singer and actor was established in 1985 when his pop sensation "Elle a les yeux revolver" (i.e. She has killer eyes) with its Far East instrumental passages made it to the Top 4 of the French charts ~staying in the top 10 for 13 weeks~ and thus catapulting his career. The pulling traits that got him chosen? "His allure, his gaze and his voice which lend him an undeniable magnetism; an accompished and authentic man". (Quote according to the International senior vice president of marketing of the European licences of Coty Prestige). Marc is reportedly flattered to be participating, fronting such a masculine standby from 1990. Marc has aged in an appealing way, foregoing the too cute hair of the 80s, so who's to argue?

May I just ask whether this is a return to more traditional masculine prototypes, away from the metrosexual images of recent? Could this be -coupled with Dior's decision to utilize Alain Delon's classic 60s photo for Eau Sauvage- a new welcome trend? I'm crossing my fingers.



Photo collage of Marc Lavoine with Cerruti cologne bottle by Perfumeshrine

Marc Jacobs Splash Apple, Pomegranate, Biscotti: new fragrances

THE MARC JACOBS 2010 SPLASH COLLECTION announces itself with the motto "Indulge in an array of macaroons at a patisserie on a sweet summer’s day..." Yup, their popular Splash collection in the homonguous glass bottles with the simple labels for -ahem- splashing all over are back and this time with culinary themes running through them. Don't knock them off-hand, remember when we really liked their light Winter Amber back in the day?

Marc Jacobs introduces three new limited edition Splash Scents this spring in APPLE, POMEGRANATE, and BISCOTTI , inspired by the decadent indulgences of a Paris Patisserie. (Duh! I suppose saying you're inspired by a Stockholm or Belgrade patiserrie doesn't quite cut it with fragoholics, eh? Anyway...)

MARC JACOBS APPLE
Deliciously fruity, apple is aromatic and energizing, built around a green apple impression full of freshness. Developed by Yann Vasnier of Givaudan, tart yet refreshing apple juice opens with juicy apple, lemon and grapefruit. The unexpected surprise of rosemary, jasmin and soft stellata magnolia playfully join in. At last, warm driftwood, coriander and cardamom gently delight. The crisp green tint reflects summer's breezy, garden-fresh color palette.

*Fragrance house: Givaudan
*Perfumer: Yann Vasnier

MARC JACOBS POMEGRANATE
Inspired by the sparkling radiance of this fruit of myth pomegranate exudes an inviting balance of elegance and brightness.
Created by Perfumer Patty Hidalgo of Fragrance Resources, the fruity floral fragrance invigorates with an blend of mandarin flowers, bergamot, and lemon chiffon, rhubarb and violet mix with uplifting pomegranate. The dry down is a sugared musk with a blend of vanilla, and amber.
The corresponding pink tint is a hint to the fruit.

*Fragrance house: Fragrance Resources
*Perfumer: Patty Hidalgo

MARC JACOBS BISCOTTI
Savory aroma and a touch of citrus for the most gourmand of the lot of these limited editions. Crisp yet also comforting and refreshing.
Developed by Richard Herpin of Firmenich, this citrus floral treat opens with the freesia, bergamont and orange flower, the heart of pistachio blossom imparts a sweet richness while creamy and soft vanilla add balance and a smooth softness.
The warm golden tint is reminiscent of a crisp biscotto.

*Fragrance house: Firmenich
*Perfumer: Richard Herpin

MARC JACOBS SPLASH SUMMER 2010 COLLECTION availability:
Marc Jacobs Apple, Marc Jacobs Pomegranare and Marc Jacobs Biscotti are available in 300ML/10.0 FL. OZ. for $68.00 from March 2010 at fine department stores (including Saks Fifth Avenue, Sephora, Bloomingdale's, Lord & Taylor, Macy's, and Nordstrom) and MARC JACOBS Boutiques while supplies last.

info & pics via press release

Monday, March 8, 2010

Annick Goutal Grand Amour: fragrance review

A sexy actress in her boudoir after her performance: Pensive , smiling hazily to herself as she lifts her hair off her forehead and gazes at her image in the mirror. Her most enthousiastic fan has sent her armfulls of liles , bunches of honeysucle and posies of hyacinth to fill the room and her lacy clothes with an initially fresh and sweet fragrance , with a penetrating aroma that becomes deeper and slightly decaying as time passes. The whole concoction is intoxicating somehow, yet it makes her think of him with nostalgia. She thinks she's falling in love... It's a Grand Amour. It has to be!

That had been my impression of this rich floriental, composed by Isabelle Doyen, redolent of heady flowers and a balsamic ambery base when I had tried it for the first time back in 1997 when it launched, on a trip to Austria. I recall that the splendid presentation of the butterfly bottle alongside the dewy flowers in the filigree vases around with their fin de siècle ambience had captured my attention and provoked the above image, which is still firmly with me after all those years. The recollection made me nod my head a little when I read Tania Sanchez in Perfumes,The Guide saying: "[it]has impressive ambitions, combining aloofness and warmth in search of that magical proportion that turns a starlet into a star".

Grand Amour immediately stroke me as a little decadent and "intimate", not as airy as the majority of the Goutals I had hitherto tried, and indeed, alongside firm staples Passion and L'Heure Exquise, most of my favourite Goutals fit into the category that the Goutal people term as "capiteux"; more or less "heady". Inspired as it was by the bouquets that the cellist Alain Meunier presented to Annick during their courtship Grand Amour is officially described as "A perfect balance of carnal flowers, lily, hyacinth, honeysuckle. A hymn of sensuality with notes of amber, musk, myrtle".

The atmosphere of Grand Amour is one of sustained uncertainty, poised as it is between the unctuous base of its resinous orientalia and the grassy, sappy, almost refreshing floral top; honeysuckle first reveals its yellowish, nectarous blossoms, reminding me of the exquisite moment when winter falls into spring, then hyacinth takes reign with its intoxicating pollen-like aroma. Its powdery, dry earthiness is the perfect accompaniment to these first days of spring when the longing to see new bulbs erupting sprouts is so ingrained into the melancholy of a long winter. In several ways (the soap, the powder, the hyacinth) Grand Amour is comparable to Guerlain's classic Chamade from 1969, another head-long dive into romance, yet I do not detect much of the characteristic galbanum and oakmoss of the latter (at least in its vintage form).

The Eau de Toilette highlights more of the romantic, soapy aldehydic hyacinth notes while the Eau de Parfum of Grand Amour is more base-heavy in the incense-like myrrh tonality and allover denser and sultrier. It is also naturally more orange-hued in contrast to the light straw-coloured Eau de Toilette, so don't be alarmed if you come across dark juice, it's not necessarily spoiled. If you really like that sort of effect and are that sort of woman, I guess you need both versions.

Notes for Annick Goutal Grand Amour:
lily, hyacinth, honeysuckle, Turkish rose, jasmine, French mimosa, amber, vanilla, myrrh.

Grand Amour by Annick Goutal is available as Eau de Toilette (30-50-100ml) and Eau de Parfum (50ml, 100ml) in the classic gadroon bottles and in a red butterfly bottle at boutiques carrying the Goutal line and several online venues. Check Lianne Tio's Nederthelands boutique
on this link as well.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine:
Annick Goutal news & reviews, Interview with perfumer Isabelle Doyen

Photo of Hanna Schygulla via Fromn Blank to Blank. Photo of Annick Goutal bottles rested atop Edouard Vuillard 's painting The Dress with Foliage by Elena Vosnaki

Friday, March 5, 2010

Jennifer Aniston Launches her Own Celebrity Fragrance: Lola Vie

In a sea of celebrity scents (ie.commercial fragrances fronted by celebrities who lend some of the glamour into pushing -often mediocre at best- juice) another newcomer is ready to strut her foot into the mess and with a flick of her honey-gold mane make us look and hopefully sniff long enough to buy: Friends show and several movies' star Jennifer Aniston, also known for her marriage to Brad Pitt.

"According to OK!, Jen has been developing the perfume for nearly two years, although she is apparently on the fence about what to call it. The actress "has yet to get 100 percent behind any name," says an insider, "but the one she favors is 'Aniston.'" Not so, says her spokesman, who calls the eponymous perfume speculation "wrong." "It will not have her name," he assures us. Another moniker that was apparently nixed: Echo. "It’s all about capturing the idea of romance and freedom at any age," the source explains to the mag, "but it's hard to do that in just one word." [source]
Tell us about it! No word on the juice...it's all about the name! We'll update when more info becomes available.

Edit to Add: According to UsMagazine "A rep for the actress, 41, confirms that her first fragrance will be named Lola Vie, which roughly translates into 'laughing at life' in French" {sic} and is being developed by the Falic Group which is also behind Eva Longoria's eponymous fragrance. I would rather think that it takes texting in mind, as in LOL @ Vie (where throughfully vie means life in French) "I've worked on it for over a year," Aniston recently said of her scent to London's Capital Breakfast Show. "When they asked, I don't think they really expected me to be [so] picky. But you've got to have it smell right."

According to recent reportage, Aniston, a former fan of Miss Dior and Anais Anais in her formative years, has progressed from the "heavier" scents and is now aiming for a "non perfume-y" scent that will have people exclaiming "What is that smell? You smell great!" I'm supressing a yawn as we speak, but maybe there might be something decent in the works, who knows?
The advertising campaign makes ample use of ms.Aniston's lithe body, clad in only a towel, sitting on the rocks of a deserted beach.

Photo collage created by Perfumeshrine. Photo of Aniston for the ad campaign through Popeater.com

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