Friday, February 6, 2009

Guerlain Mon Precieux Nectar: another new fragrance

A very limited edition is coming out of Guerlain's Boutique for serious collectors with a matching price-tag to rival everything we have been expecting. In times of recession there's nothing like some throwing caution to the wind, it seems!
Mon Précieux Nectar, is a super exclusive boutique offering in Extrait de Parfum concentration. "For the woman who relishes being unique and strives to set the trends instead of following them, Guerlain has created an extremely limited fragrance offering appropriately titled Mon Précieux Nectar. Only sixty two women in the world will be privileged to wear this scent, all but ensuring the wearers will never cross paths. Available as one full liter of perfume, the fragrance is floral and gourmand with a head of petitgrain and bitter almond, jasmine and orange blossom at the heart and a base of sensual woods, incense, vanilla and white musk". The mouth-watering and addictive fragrance comes in La Fontaine Impériale (imperial fountain), a hand-made crystal fountain with a silver-plated refillable atomizer that will be offered in a black leather box for the customer's convenience. Created by Sylvaine Dealcourte and Randa Hammami who had worked again with Guerlain on Cruel Gardénia. 1 L pure Parfum at the retail price of $9,000 or 6000 €, circulating in numbered bottles exclusively at Guerlain boutiques. (contradicting information talks about 100 numbered bottles ~this reminds me of something, but my tongue is tied)

At any rate, compared, Caron Baccarat "urns" seem like a steal...

Other upcoming Guerlain releases for the season (click the links for more info):
La Petite Robe Noire (out now)
Insolence Eau Glacée
Fleurs de Shalimar and Eau de Shalimar
Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus
Aqua Allegoria Mimosa-Tiaré and Aqua Allegoria Cherry Blossom
Terracotta Eau Sous Le Vent (also based on tiaré, the tropical Tahitian gardenia strung in leis)
Habit Rouge Sport



News & Pic courtesy of Sniffapalooza and mr.Guerlain collector via Basenotes

Arabian Fragrances Reading

There is a very interesting homage to Arabian perfumes and corresponding influences on Osmoz right now, with beautiful pictures to accompany it, focusing on the firmly established traditions of Arabian culture in regards to fragrance use ~from fumigation to rich oil preparations and sourcing exotic materials, such as oudh and viscous balsams. After all, it's those traditions which have inspired one of the most emblematic of the niche brands revered today among perfume enthusiasts: Serge Lutens.
You can read about some of the more popular Arabian perfumes, some of the essenses and how they have been translated to Westernised perceptions, as well as the influence they have generated to the insatiable western consumer.
For more information and musings on the traditions and uses of Arabian scents and aromatics, you can read on Perfume Shrine: Travel Memoirs Arabian Rituals and Arabian Attars, journey to the mundane?.

We will shortly come back with a glimpse of the opulent and ultra-luxurious Amouage line, a Valentine's Day article on seductive fragrancing with a twist, exotic Travel Memoirs and a corresponding scent to match the mood and an ultra-rare surprise vintage treasure that has never been reviewed before which I have been most lucky to lay my hands (and nose) on.
Stay tuned!!

Pic via Osmoz

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Stephanie de Saint Aignan: new fragrances

In late 2006 a new fragrance designer,Stéphanie de Saint Aignan, came on the scene with a line that created a ripple on the pond with exotically inspired niche fragrances. After having had a baby, Sacha, she's set to be back on perfumistas' conscious as she has just unveiled 4 new fragrances:
L’Eau Nirique (a pun on the word onirique which means “dreamlike” in French ~and Greek, I might add...), an exotic accord of jasmine and lemon blossom.
Berbériades Extrême, an intense, spicier and more ambry version of one of her earlier creations, Berbériades.
Blanc d’Hiver, a pear sorbet over a trail of silky musks.
Li Altarelli, a fresh eau inspired by Mediterranean aromatic herbs and immortelle/everlasting flower.
The packaging changes its look, being designed anew by Laurent Dray. But the brand’s first 7 creations are still available. More info can be had on the official site: stephaniedesaintaignan

Info & pic via Osmoz.

John Varvatos for Women: fragrance review

When one's name is Varvatos and they're Greek, the plot thickens and the Gods might accuse you of hubris if you dare produce something light and innocuous. "Varvatos" means well-endowed, smelling of raw sex in Greek and the anticipation for his masculine fragrance was laced with a dollop of humourous mirth on my side and a sense of the joke being on the English speaking world who would be rather shocked to have known the truth. Luckily the scent was quite good, succulent dates captured in a leather jacket's pocket, with an individualistic streak that differentiated the fragrance from comparable scents already in the market.
But whereas the men's offering went for kick, the women's product went for meek. In other words John Varvatos for Women went for the road of least resistance and contrary to the axiom that men are less likely to take chances with their fashion or fragrance choices, it's the women's side of the pool that has beginner's steps, never venturing to Olympic scale depths. I guess Varvatos is not a concept in step with feminine sensibilities when thought of in relation to their own scent.

The scent is classified as a floral chypre, belonging to the "modern" style declination of the genre, which eschews the perfume-y aspects of yore and the mossy depths of murky sensuality to invest fragrances with modern abstract tonalities; an effect most successful in the almost classic by now Narciso For Her, judging by its immense repurcussions to the field of feminine launches of the last 4 years. John Varvatos for Women was developed by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux (DK Black Cashmere, DK Wenge, DK Labdanum, DK Gold, Clinique Happy, TF Neroli Portofino, John Varvatos for men ) aiming to grab the demographic looking for a sexy attitude with feminine touches at a recognisable direction. In other words, nothing too daring, too strange or too opulent, although the lighthearted approach has its fans and as such is not to be trifled with. The official information wants the inspiration to have been Joyce, Varvatos' own wife, who has worked on the art direction of the fragrances, while the face of the advertisements is Louise Pederson, photographed by Alasdair Mclellan.

Smelling John Varvatos for Women I can't help not thinking it is one part re-issued Rumeur to two parts Coco Mademoiselle with an added fruity facet that doesn't add significant dialogue between the two parts, like neighbours living next door to each other barely lisping "g'day" when getting the dog out. The initial impression is of a descendant of the Narciso lineage (which the new Rumeur belongs to anyway) with the fresher, sharper aspects of almost champagne-like magnolia and white rose notes, while as it opens up its heart is suffused with fruity jellies of peach and mandarin that inject a girly aspect. After half an hour on skin, the resemblances with the clean patchouli, vanillic and white musks of Coco Mademoiselle are unmistakeable; and indeed how could it be different when 1 in 3 scents aiming at the mainstream feminine market utilize that base? Fans of the above mentioned fragrances might like the approach if they have caught the collector's bug. The flacon is actually very appealing, designed by Doug Lloyd of Pochet in a shade of dusty peachy pink like vintage underwear.

Notes for John Varvatos for Women: aromatic grappa, Georgian apricot, Damascus plum, golden mandarin, rubrum lily, Indian mango blossom, Egyptian jasmine, Turkish rose, oakmoss, patchouli, tonka beans and wild honey

John Varvatos for Women was exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue before going into wider distribution and is available in 15 ml Parfum, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum, and in matching body products.


I have one sample of the scent which will be given to one lucky reader. State your interest in the comments.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Angel Sunessence ~Summer Eau Début flanker

Thierry Mugler fragrances will be launching a summer eau version of their perfume classic and best-seller Angel "for the very first time since it was launched in 1992". First time you ask? Well....Innocent (a lovely scent in its own right) was really a different fragrance and it didn't have the moniker "Angel" attached to it after a very brief initial foray into the market in an aerosol can, which was soon dropped in favour of the crystal flacon with the star; so I guess that doesn't count. Angel Rose, Angel Lily, Angel Violet and Angel Peony for some reason don't seem to register as flankers nevertheless? And what about Eau de Star reviewed on these pages? Anyway....
Christened Angel Sunessence, the new scent takes the original fragrance but softens it with bergamot and an exotic floral-hibiscus accord. Angel’s icon, actress Naomi Watts, is the face of Angel Sunessence, as well.

~info & pic via Osmoz

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