Infusion d'Homme by Prada: fragrance review

~Introducing guest writer Mike Perez

Iris. In a men’s fragrance. What’s the first scent that pops into your head? I would be surprised, if you didn’t immediately think of Dior Homme by Christian Dior.

Dior Homme, released in 2005 has become the iris scent favorite for men (and women) due in part to: a root prominent (carrot-y, Turin has called it in an interview he did with Fantastic Man magazine) iris accord; a subdued powdery gourmand sweetness; and a hint of leather and tobacco folded skillfully into the dry down. Dior, realizing that they had a ‘hit’ on their hands with Dior Homme, has released numerous flankers: Dior Homme Cologne [2007], Dior Homme Intense [2007] and Dior Homme Sport [2008]. This however has not taken away from the acclaim or popularity that Dior Homme has garnered. A friend of mine, who travels to France, claims that it is extremely easy to smell Dior Homme on men all over ‘the streets of Paris’ - similar to how I smell Le Male by Gaultier or Acqua di Gio by Armani on many men here in the US.

When I first smelled Dior Homme, I was totally unfamiliar with the iris note. Perhaps because of this, I intensely disliked it. It smelled like powdery makeup! Later on, when my nose became attenuated to florals (including iris), I revisited it - this time in a small travel sprayer, gifted to me by a fragrance enthusiast who didn’t like it himself. Smelling it again, something clicked. Iris! Oh…this is what they’re talking about, I thought.
Many other iris fragrances I tested after that have impressed me (Iris 39 by Le Labo and it’s civet/green iris; Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens – the smell of iris, in the clouds up above, orbiting Earth) and disappointed me (Iris Pallida 2007 by L’Artisan Parfumeur was too, too dry and weak on my skin; Hiris by Hermes felt too powder prominent). Yet, here I was – finally excited about iris scents!

Prada has just released their newest iris scent for men, Infusion d’Homme. The perfumer (who also did the intensely popular Infusion d’Iris by Prada for women), Daniela Andrier, has been quoted saying Infusion d’Homme, ‘…has a very fresh, crisp smell — like a man just out of the shower.’ When I read this, I immediately thought to myself, ‘Oh no…not another boring ‘shower fresh’ scent!’.I’m here to report that Prada has created a fresh scent. But NOT a boring one.

The extremely iris prominent top notes (dry, almost brittle and throat parching) feature just a pinch of neroli slightly overpowered by a pure soap accord that appears almost immediately. It is extremely soapy. Fans of soapy scents will be thrilled: it smells bubbly, aqueous and floral. The first time I skin tested this, I missed the soap accord and my nose zeroed in on the iris. Repeated wearings, especially on warm, humid days revealed the soap. I am reminded of the biting, almost lye-based hand-milled soap notes of Puro Lino, or the green/flower accents of White Linen by Estee Lauder.
The iris/neroli/soap combo dries down revealing a light, transparent vetiver mixed in with the top notes. The light whiffs of vetiver made me wish for a stronger vetiver presence - the iris wears very strong and linear on this fragrance. I smell no incense or benzoin in the dry down, with only the slightest woody accord (cedarwood?). It is a more evident vetiver accord than Infusion d’Iris, and although I wouldn’t classify this as more masculine (although many women might do this), I think it just smells more crisp and starchy.
Overall it manages to evoke a freshly showered feeling, awash in flowers.
The scent is not groundbreaking, in terms of fragrance releases, but it is much better than the large number of aquatic, marine and synthetic men’s fragrance clogging department store shelves. I applaud a designer scent that is not afraid to be flower prominent. It seems that Kenzo, is right on the heels of Infusion d’Homme, with their new floral prominent fragrance for men: Power, which I will review here, soon.

Longevity of Infusion d’Homme is average. It stays quite close to my skin when I wear it and when I wanted it to wear stronger I remedied this by overapplying it. Perhaps the ancillary products (bar soaps, shower gel) might extend the sillage?? But, then again, showering with products that are scented to smell like a ‘fresh shower’, sounds a little ridiculous doesn’t it?

The Eau de Toilette comes in a gorgeous tall, rectangular metal-embossed bottle with a grosgrain ribbon wrapped cap – in 1.7 oz, 3.4 oz, 6.7 oz, 13.5 oz and a whopping 25.5 oz bottle (the size of a small television).
To stream nine short films (unveiled at the Spring/Summer ’09 show back in June) commissioned by Prada for Infusion d’Homme go to http://www.prada.com/ (click on Projects>Short Movies for Infusion d’Homme) or Wallpaper Magazine to see stills from each film.

Official Notes:
Top: Mandarin Orange, Neroli, Clean Note
Heart: Iris, Galbanum, Cedar, Vetiver
Base: Benzoin, Frankincense, Powdery Note


Pic of Infusion d'Homme by Prada bottle via Osmoz
Pic of Jake Gyllenhaal chosen by Helg unbeknownst to Mike (hehe), originally uploaded on MUA

The new Shalimar by Guerlain commercial with Natalia Vodianova

A few days ago we introduced the new face of Shalimar by parfums Guerlain, Natalia Vodianova, shot by Italian photographer Paolo Roversi. The ad prints that will appear in major fashion and beauty magazines only give a hint of the upcoming advertising campaign, apparently.
Perfume Shrine is proud to be the first to feature the newest commercial of Shalimar, with Natalia Vodianova, today, kindly supplied by one of our readers who wishes to remain anonymous.
Our newest info suggests that Natalia Vodianova will also be fronting Guerlain's makeup and skincare starting January 2009.
The TV and cinema commercial of Shalimar is full of sensual images of a naked Vodianova, wriggling on an unmade bed, the voiceover recalling the famous Marilyn quip about wearing a few drops of Chanel No.5 in bed, but also visually echoing the controversial campaign of Calvin Klein's newest feminine scent Secret Obsession in which an object(the fragrance) becomes a psychological relation to emotional response. It is almost as if the emotion is transfered onto the object befitting Freudian analysis.



The concept seems to be focused on a conversion between lovers following a passionate tryst, with the man asking the mystery ingredient that accounts for what sounds like an unforgetable memory.
"Qu'est-ce que tu portais sur ta peau?" (what were you wearing on your skin?)
"Quelques gouttes de Shalimar!" (A few drops of Shalimar)

Then again, the immortal dialogue* from Godart's Le Mépris with Brigitte Bardot, reprised in Chanel's latest lipstick commercial* for Rouge Allure, is rather unsurpasable...


*{Click the links to watch!}

Stay tuned for upcoming reviews and little known info on Shalimar as well as its flankers, Shalimar Light (Eau Légère) and Eau de Shalimar.

Ad print courtesy of French Madame Figaro 30th August 08.

Laura Mercier exclusive Nuits Enchantees in the US: fragrance news

Laura Mercier has a UK-only limited edition fragrance for women coming to the US, available at Nordstorm for 4 days only. It's Nuit Enchantées (=Enchanted Nights), inspired by the One Thousand and One Nights tale and tagged as "the perfect sensual scent for evening". Designed by James Krivda it belongs to the oriental olfactive family.

Most Nordstrom stores are only getting ten bottles or so. That's because it was produced in only 3000 bottles, so you might want to be quick!
Availability September 17-20 in the 75$ price range for 50ml of Eau de Parfum concentration.

Notes include tuberose, mocha, mace, cardamom, mandarin, ginger, rose, cedar leaf amber, patchouli, sandalwood.
Initial impressions talk about an addictive, warm, spicy fragrance with an autumnal air about it.

Shopping tip: Robyn, the Laura Mercier representative at Nordstrom can be reached at 314.255.2000 extension 1064. According to her she had 7 bottles and she has just gotten the tester in.

The fragrance can also be purchased in the UK of course, at Harrods, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols.

Thanks to chimpyblue05 on MUA for bringing the news to my attention.
Some info and pic via Vogue.co.uk and Fragrantica.

Credit to Sniffapalooza

Congrats to Raphaella Brescia Barkley, Editor in Chief of the Sniffapalooza Magazine, for scoring: the online magazine that emerged out of the Snifapalooza NYC event has been going from strength to strength lately and has found its audience, among them people from the industry. According to the latest newsletter:

"Just one of the most famous perfumers of our time, MICHEL ROUDNITSKA has signed the Sniffapalooza Magazine Guest Book.
Mandy Aftel also signed last week-a double honor from two completely different artists".

To view, click on the Sniffapalooza link and scroll to bottom of main page. Click on “view entries”.

Special congratulations also to Michelyn Camen for the series of Fragrance & the Arts, a fun approach to fragrance reviewing.

Logo pic courtesy of Sniffapalooza

Reduced Prices at Neil Morris

We're pleased to bring you good news for Neil Morris fans: contrary to most firms, there is a decrease in prices, which is great if you have been contemplating getting one of those famous Vault scents (I highly recommend Dark Season, Dark Earth and Parfum d'Ida).

Here are the news from Neil's blog via his business partner David:

"Over the past several months our sales of the Vault fragrances has
steadily increased. With this increase in sales we are able to buy our raw
materials and supplies in larger quantities and discounted prices. We are also
able to make them in larger batches increasing our productivity and
efficiency. As our way of saying thanks for supporting us we are passing on some
of the savings to your our customers. We are reducing the price of our Vault
fragrances from $150.00 to $125.00 for each two ounce bottle of Parfum".

(thanks to Kristy for pointing this out to me)