It's in the Air...

One of the most classic fragrances, selling one bottle every minute someplace in the world, is L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci. Even if it's characteristic, immediately recognisable piquancy of spicy floral has been somewhat dimmed over the decades since its introduction in 1948 due to reformulations, the romantic ideal on which it was introduced to the world ~its doves bringing peace and serenity~ has not. Here are some of my favourite commercials and advertisements which have graced its fragrant trail over the years: From the masterful clip that recalls Hieronymus Bosch's "The Garden of Earthly Delight" to more nostalgic ones ("c'est une vie enchantée", it's an enchanted life). And from the 1993 graphic arrow-shot bottles by Enrique Badulescu from 1993 through to the Jean Baptiste Mondino ones at the subway from the late 1990s. The bottom line is what the lovely soft-focus ads from the 70s by David Hamilton proclaim: "'Un parfum doit être source de rêve." A perfume should work as a source of dreams...








Which one is your favourite?

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Fragrant Advertising articles

Traditional Handmade Soap Making: An Old Craft

"Soap making in Lebanon is an old craft established more than a thousand years ago. Handmade Lebanese soaps have been sold through the ages to the Arabian countries and Europe. The Badr Hassoun family has been involved in soap making for 800 years. The family’s houses and shops can still be seen in the Khan Al-Saboun or Soap Khan.[...]In the old days, the “attar”, perfumer and “ashab”, herbalist worked together to prepare medicated soaps infused with herbal remedies. Essential oils were mixed with medicinal herbs to make special soaps which treated dandruff, acne, eczema and hair loss. Badr Hassoun believes that these mild soaps have an advantage over modern remedies, because they are less likely to cause allergies or side effects".


A most interesting article appeared on Arabnews.com concerning the tradition of handmade aromatic soaps in Lebanon. You can read the whole article here.

pic via 360dewan.com

Chloé Eau de Fleurs The collection ~Lavande, Capucine, Neroli: new fragrances

A new floral chapter begins with the upcoming Chloé Eau de Fleurs collection: three scents inspired by classic flowers, Lavande, Capucine, Néroli, and encased in similar architectural bottles, distinguishable by the shade of their jus and the raw material they're referencing (Reminds you of niche "collections"? Thought so!). Let's see them one by one:

Chloé Eau de Fleurs Lavande - Lavender or Lavandula officinalis

An absolute echo of masculine fragrances, lavender has always inspired perfumer Domitille Bertier (IFF). “When I close my eyes and breathe in lavender essence, I imagine sheets drying in the sun and the freshness of summer days. I’ve wanted to create a women’s lavender fragrance for a long time.” Thus, when the Artistic Director of Chloé, Hannah MacGibbon, asked her to compose a feminine fragrance based on this androgynous material, Domitille was guided by her longstanding dream. “I used one of the noblest lavenders of our palette”. This essence was fractioned to lighten its coumarin base note. Without this almond-like aspect, it becomes an evanescent and airy aura of lavender. “I wanted a simple signature, the impression of an eau fraîche with a real perfume structure.” On the skin, the lavender of Chloé eau de fleurs Lavande seems herbaceous and tinged with citrus, alongside violet and bergamot leaves. Then, a tea accord prolongs the presence of bergamot into the heart of the formula. Lavender delicately transforms. The iris concrete gives it this verticality. Finally, musk envelops the allure in sweetness, while cedar, vetiver and cashmeran fuse with the ambergris accord to give a sensual tempo to the composition. An olfactory challenge that puts lavender back into the feminine field of possibilities.

Chloé eau de fleurs capucine - Nasturtium or Tropaeolum majus

With its interlocked leaves and petals, the nasturtium closely guards its secrets. One must dream and fantasize about it to see its presence in a perfumed composition. “I like the simplicity of this flower, which grows in my garden,” admits Louise Turner (Givaudan). “It seems to come straight from an antique botany book or herbarium.” Louise is inspired by her knowledge of wild gardens. She blends refreshing citrus – bergamot, lemon and neroli – with galbanum essence. A concentration of chic, this rarely used crisp green note offers a timeless inflexion to the fragrance. Behind this dense foliage of galbanum and sage, Louise adds a few aromatic touches of juniper berry, like a reference to a man’s wardrobe. And, at this moment, the petals begin to blossom on the skin. An impressionist sensation of faceted flowers of rose essence, rose absolute, jasmine and lily of the valley enwraps the heart of the formula like a mist from an unknown origin. Finally, ambroxan – a sensual and woody amber ingredient – melds with cottony musk to form a comforting halo. .

Chloé eau de fleurs néroli - Neroli or Citrus aurantium var. amara

Immediately recognizable, neroli essence makes everyone smile. Nostalgic of childhood, it diffuses its freshness in numerous perfumery compositions. This also makes it difficult to use: “We had to make the eau de fleurs néroli unique and prevent it from smelling like a baby care product,” explains perfumer Aliénor Massenet (IFF). “I have this very striking memory of a trip to Tunisia, when I walked through a field of bitter orange trees in blossom. And I dreamt of a vibrant, modern and noble neroli.” Surprising one and all, Aliénor Massenet decided to combine mandarin and orange in the head note with a typically masculine aromatic note: rosemary. This explosive dry herb underlines the bitterness of citrus fruit. At the heart of the formula, an exceptional high-quality neroli is swirled into an accord of peony petals and clary sage. With its fresh, spicy, floral and tobacco-like aspect, sage reveals tea accents that raise neroli to the height of modernity. Smitten with amber notes, Aliénor blends white musk, a trace of Tonka bean and an overdose of amber in the drydown for a “bare skin” sensation, along with unexpected, masculine cedar wood. Sweet, yet never innocent, floral and woody, fresh and sunny all at once.

Available from February 2010 exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue and Chloé boutiques, 100ml for $135.00
info &pics via press release

Sasha Varon Soulgasm : fragrance review

Sasha Varon Luxe Parfums is behind Soulgasm, the first of what seems a new line of perfumes self-positioning into niche territory. The main factor that I was interested in trying it was that part of the proceeds for each sale of Soulgasm goes to the charity Vitamin Angels.
Vitamin Angels reduces child mortality by connecting infants and children under five with vital nutrients, especially vitamin A and zinc, and has been working in 40 countries around the world in 2009. Vitamin Angels has been awarded two consecutive 4-star ratings from Charity Navigator for sound fiscal management, so I guess they do send over the "green". (visit vitaminangels.org for more info)

The company boldyly presents itself thus: "Established to create masterpieces uniquely rebellious of today’s status quo, Sasha Varon steals the stage with its first offering; SOULGASM, Heaven Sent, Hell-bent…
In an oversaturated market where packaging differentiation is crucial for sales success, Sasha Varon’s Soulgasm, with its provocative, sexy, vintage-inspired styling & feel takes you back in time, telling a story that reaches out and dares you not to pick it up and satisfy your curiosity".
NOTES for Soulgasm:
Head: Succulent Peach, Anjou Pear, South African Freesia, Ripe Black Currant
Heart: Wild, Night-Blooming Jasmine, Delicate Eurasian Lily, Multi-Faceted Woodberry
Base: Clean Musk, Warm Amber, Sweet French Vanilla

Sounds cool? Hmmm....Colour me sceptic.


I can't say I was impressed by Soulgasm's scent, certainly not in reference to the expectations that the ad copy creates (paradisial and inferno-touched at the same time, please note)! And the retro packaging and burlesque-inspired playful images (boosted by 40s-style jazzy music on the site) that accompany it prepare one for something completely different! In that respect there is a serious incongruity between image and scent: I'm sure they have their reasons.
Left to one's own devices, one (not me, I'm afraid) might appreciate the fragrance for what it is: a very mainstream and potent fruity floral. Certainly in a sea of fruity florals it is difficult to differentiate between them and indeed smelling Soulgasm reminded me of something I couldn't put my finger on. Was it the peachy Maybe Baby and the pear-meets-wet-dog-note of Petite Cherie rolled into one? Perhaps. The thing is the scent is VERY fruity, peach-dominated with strong berry notes and not especially floral, more shampoo-directed. One would be hard pressed to distinguish specific notes under the fruits, although I'm sure there is synth lily of the valley and synth violet to help expand the feel and open up the fruits ~as if it was necessary. It is very lasting and judging by my small sample vial which allowed a few squirts it projects quite a bit. Fruito-phobics should keep their distance.

The fragrance is available exclusively online and at Beautycafe.com
You can check out for yourself at Soulgasm (The site is really well done and the music is great auditory backrground if you're doing something menial, like washing dishes or taping envelopes at the office, while thinking about 40s classic noirs: I guess they did those things then too but more glamorously!)

In the interests of full disclosure I was sent a sample vial via a PR promotion.

The winner of the draw....

...for the Tonka Imperiale is The Duke of Pall Mall. Please email me using the email on the Contact page with a shipping address so I can send this to you immediately.

Thanks for playing along everyone so enthusiastically and till the next one.

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre: new fragrance

Chanel is taking their bestselling Chance perfume and giving it another spin after their first flanker Chance Eau Fraiche, this time calling it Chance Eau Tendre. A "tender water" spin on Chance then! More delicate and more playful, if that can be possible...
The fragrance composed by Jacques Polge, in-house perfumer at Chanel, will be a pink-hued fruity floral which I predict will not enthuse too much the perfumistas who want more "serious" fragrances out of that house. Still a Chanel always bears testing it out before judging.
Chanel describes it thus: "A new facet of CHANCE is born; the third generation of the CHANCE Fragrance family. The new incarnation of the decidedly young scent, CHANCE EAU TENDRE Eau de Toilette Spray reveals itself to be both delicate and radiant, with an intoxicatingly light, fruity trail. An unexpected mingling of grapefruit and quince meets the crispness of fresh green notes, while a trace of Jasmine Absolute lingers in the air. Gently warmed by a sheer veil of White Musk, at once, innocent and seductive".

The campaign is fronted by Sigrid Agren, and photographed by the legendary Jean-Paul Goude, a longtime collaborator of Chanel parfums. (The flower on top of the head does seem a little silly to me, but don't mind me, I'm not in the demographic).

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre will be available as an Eau de Toilette in 50ml/1.7oz and 100ml/3.4oz.

Edit to add: Full review on this link.

Notes for Chanel Chance Eau Tendre are:

Top: grapefuit, melon, quince
Heart: hyacinth, jasmine
Base: iris, white musk, Virginia cedar, amber

The perfume has just launched and is available at Nordstorm.

Fragrances for Myers Briggs Personality types!

In a most interesting experiment conducted by David Pybus, historian and head of Scents of Time, 150 executive women worldwide were questioned on their use of fragrance and their Myers Briggs personality type to determine any potential correspondence between the two.
Fundamentally there was some pairing between 16 Myers Briggs personality types matched to 16 fragrance types (the basic families divided in sub-sections) The 16th one bring absence of fragrance altogether (i.e. not wearing perfume); one has to account for that option too!
For each personality type some tendencies arised, in order of preference. Here they are:

NT (rational thinker)
Florals
Soft Florals
Woody Orientals
ST (practical)
Florals
Soft Floral
Woody Orientals
SF (feeling, sensing)
Florals
Soft Florals
Soft Orientals

NF (idealist)
Florals
Soft Florals
Woody Orientals
Soft Orientals/Orientals

SP(artistic)
Florals
SJ (traditional)
Florals
Soft Florals
Mossy Woods-

Intriguing, eh? David Pybus analyses the results on his site but he concludes nevertheless with a very thought-provoking question that leads to discussion: "Intuitive thought may lead us to believe that an introvert would use quiet, discrete perfumes, such as soft florals, whilst an extrovert would employ more strident aromatic brands if the use of perfumes was directed at self- enjoyment and character” stamping”. However, perhaps the reverse may be true? That extroverts use softer fragrances to damp down their personality, whilst introverts use the more strident brands to better project their presence. Indeed, is the use of perfume for a person’s outer (influencing others) or inner (influencing themselves) world?"

Read the whole article on this link.

And what do YOU think? Do you know your Myers Briggs type and does it fit the above choices? (If you don't you can take the test here).

thanks to Basenotes for drawing my attention to the article on Scents of Time.

PERFUMism: What Will be the Talk of Town Soon

Today is a very special day! Contrary to many others, I don't usually broadcast what I'm doing outside the scope of Perfume Shrine on these pages. But today is an exception because it is beyond the merely personal and it embraces the community. I have been working alongside two dedicated people on a common cause which is groundbreaking, innovative and will hopefully rekindle the discourse on the genuine love of perfumery and help the industry take notice.

PERFUMism.com is a new platform, totally uncommercial, completely independent, and utterly respectful to those who will partake of its content. It is unlike anything else that exists in the perfume community today in that it aims to communicate serious thoughts on scents and the people involved with them (we have invited acclaimed perfumers, industry insiders, distributors and exhibitors) beyond the overused concept of niche and "art" which is brandished like the latest It-bag in the blogosphere and the discussion fora. Art will feature naturally too, but will it be a pretentious facade to make money or stroke fragile egoes? No, most assuredly not! We're totally against vanity projects!

PERFUMism is a kick in the groin in that it will tell truths! It will not fear, it will not hold back, it will not mollify or caress ears and will question everything! Along with mme Rebecca Veuillet-Gallot, the renowned author of Le Guide du Parfum and the Patricia de Nicolai Parisian boutique-keeper, and Andy Tauer, the well-loved artisan perfumer who financed this new platform, we have been brainstorming on making a difference in the industry. With our passion and with the fertile discourse which you are invited to provide, we hope to effectuate the changes which we have been all praying for for a long while now...
So, without further ado, you're invited to check out the PERFUMism site, to leave a message at the ShoutBox (on the right hand corner, please leave a comment if you feel like it), take a tour and see if something catches your eye, and to subscribe ~entirely for FREE~ to our quarterly newsletter for news and press. Just click the link! There is also a Facebook page and a Twitter page, from where you can follow us.

My personal aim in participating on PERFUMism is to get a powerful message across that perfumery shouldn't be exploited as the new "It" money-maker, but as the only refuge of sensualists in an increasingly sensory-deprived and sterilised world! I am leaving you with a couple of words by Andy which resonate his thought-process behind this innovative concept championing true art in perfumery: "I am finally here, at the starting point, of something new and exciting, collaborative and driven by the quest to move. I am finally here, and I can make a statement. I am not niche! And now, we will start inviting others to join us. We are not many, but we are the few who will make a difference. That's what PERFUMism is about: Making a difference in the world of perfumes".

Parfums Isabey Fleur Nocturne: new fragrance

Isabey has just launched Fleur Nocturne, a modern version of a 1925 Isabey fragrance called Bleu de Chine. The fragrance, inspired by a world of crystal and amethyst, was entrusted to acclaimed French perfumer Jean Jacques, who envisioned an exceptionally rich floral bouquet with fruity, white flowers.

According to the official information the top note of Fleur Nocturne consisting of mandarin, mixed with apricot blossoms and white peach, instantly gives you the feeling that you are holding in your hands a perfume of exceptional, noble and valuable ingredients. The fragrance then plunges into a heart of jasmine, gardenia and magnolia, with a quality which is very rarely found today. The base leaves a strong wake of extraordinary elegance with a sunny chord of vanilla and patchouli.

Fleur Nocturne by Parfums Isabey will be available in a bottle of 50ml of Eau de Parfum for 129 euros.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Interview with perfumer Jean Jacques

Guerlain Tonka Imperiale: fragrance review & draw

"From his brown and golden fur
Comes such sweet fragrance that one night
I was perfumed with it because
I caressed him once, once only".

Thus writes Charles Baudelaire in his poem Le Chat (The Cat) defining the tamer interpretation of le parfum fourrure ("fur coat perfume"; for more info on this concept please refer to this article and this one). That feeling could equally well apply to the newest Guerlain exclusive, Tonka Impériale (Imperial Tonka). That is, if you rolled your cat onto caramel and roasted almond powder, assuming via some paradox of nature this feline was sympathetic to humans' desserts and borderline torturous treatment! Tonka Impériale is such a strange and compeling dessert following the manner of la grande patiserrie chez Guerlain, but also underscoring the composition with alternating sweetness & bitterness, luscious deep backgrounds and the multi-faceted nuances of one of the most prized materials of classic Guerlains, tonka bean.

Tonka, with its rich coumarin load, takes pride of place in the notorious Guerlinade, the common "thread" which characterises some of the classic scents of the house, so an étude on this material within a line which focuses on new spins on standardised materials (L’Art et la Matière within Guerlain's boutique scents portfolio) was a natural. Rather in reverse to what Liszt did to Paganini's motifs however, Thierry Wasser, the in-house perfumer at Guerlain who also composed Tonka Impériale assisted by art director Sylvaine Delacourte, subtracts elements from the classical Guerlains to render a purer, more direct and insistent message, like abstract art interpreting an idea of the Baroque Masters. The fragrance doesn't waver or develop, but manages to appear modern while retaining the luxurious and saturated quality of the old creations. A solinote on this material was sorely lacking for a house who has made it the sine qua non of their olfactory tradition and this new offering is salivatingly tempting, even for non gourmand-following folks!

Tonka bean (coming from the South American tree dipteryx odorata) is an exceptional and costly material that presents fascinating facets of culinary delights; from aniseed and licorice notes as well as macaroons, salty toffees and blond tobacco all the way to hay and toasted bread. The comforting factor these facets naturally exude is here coupled to an overdose of rosemary (according to Olfactorum and Esprit de Parfum). The pairing is logical: the almost salty, andorgynous end of tonka is close to culinary herbs. But the comfort factor should in no way evoke an Earth Mother type! In a way this is a modern play on the unisex idea of Jicky: the fougère nuance of lavender (here replaced by rosemary) played on the more langoruous scale of a semi-oriental thanks to the vanillic base (here the more honeyed, caramel and woody tonalities are accentuated). But it will also remind to some the honeyed veil (mimosa, orange flower, heliotropin) of L'Heure Bleue and its bittersweet harmony. Like every great groumand oriental that respects itself, it is also a little bit "poisonous" thanks to the coumarin.

The effect materialising in Tonka Impériale is an amazingly restrained and balanced oriental gourmand (much more in check, less boozy than Spiritueuse Double Vanille; equally delicious and wearable to Cuir Beluga) that I voted for with my Visa, as you can see from my photographs. Wearing it on winter sweaters and scarfs (where it clings for days radiating seductively) is akin to getting caressed by a honey mink étole while smelling fine cigars in a salon de thé serving the most delicious almond pralines on panacotta. Those who would be intellectually intrigued to see Guerlain spin a David Hockney and who keep their lava lamp close by will be left critisizing Guerlain for bourgeoiserie. Those who appreciate keeping the heritage alive will embrace Tonka Impériale with enthusiasm.

Notes for Guerlain Tonka Impériale: rose, orange blossom, rosemary, honey, gingerbread, almond, tonka bean, hay, tobacco, amber, vanilla
Tonka Impériale is available exclusively at Guerlain boutiques & spaces at 168 euros/230$ for 75ml of Eau de Parfum, from February 1st.

For our readers, to give them a chance to try this fabulous new fragrance, a big sample will be handed out to one lucky winner. Draw is now closed, thanks for participating!

All photographs by Elena Vosnaki/Perfumeshrine. Click to enlarge.

The winner of the draw...

...for the La Via del Profumo fragrance is Aroseisarose. Please email me using the contact on the Profile page with your particulars so I have this in the mail for you soon.
Thanks to everyone for the enthusiastic participation and till the next one!

New Look & Open Poll

Exactly 63 years ago today, Christian Dior's New Look was introduced on February 12, 1947. The two lines of designs Dior had presented were code-named "Corolla" and "Eight" (including the new "Bar suit" silhouette) but the "New Look" catch-phrase which immortalised this particular silhouette came after Harper's Bazaar 's editor-in-chief Carmel Snow exclaimed after seeing the collection: "It's such a New Look!"


The New Look relied on a signature shape of below-mid-calf length, full-skirt, large bust (unheard of at least since 1912), and small waist. With it came a reprised feminity that had been romanticized anew after the vagaries of the war which had made women more dynamic-looking. And of course the perfumes followed, with the secretly naughty Miss Dior, the fruity chypre Diorama and the radiant Diorissimo in the designer's name, all through others which came in the 1950s and early 1960s by Balmain, Balenciaga, Lentheric, Carven et al, defining an era of petticoat crinolines underneath stiff taffeta whish-whashing their way down the Technicolour avenues of the everyday life. Metaphorically, as well as literally, the style demanded a certain demeanour from its wearer who had to exude some restraint and heaps of natural elegance.

So on to you: Which perfumes do you consider New-Look-compliant and which do you love out of this group?

Photo of Renee sporting the New Look by Dior at Place de la Concorde, Paris 1947, by Richard Avedon. Photo of New Look design via buctopia blog.