The winner of the draw...

....for Magnolia Nobile is Olfacta! Please mail me with a shipping address so I can send this out to you to try out. Thanks to everyone who participated!

I will be announcing the winner of the naturals scents set too soon.

Essentially Me: fragrance reviews (& draw)

Essentially-Me.co.uk is an artisanal perfume company founded by Alec Lawless, whose book Artisan Perfumery or Led by the Nose we had reviewed on Perfume Shrine a while ago. The beauty of the company and the site is that you can order your own supplies and play around with real, genuine, authentic essences to see what the heck they really do smell like! You never knew what's the difference between Virginian and Atlas (Moroccan) cedar? They have both. You read about Guaiacwood (Paraway lignum) and get confused? Now you won't be anymore. You have never in your life come across broom or boronia? You have your chance to revel in those unique and paradisial smells. You hear about orris (the rhizomes of iris) and how it's super costly (and apparently not used in your commercial perfume)? For 44.99 pounds you can get your very own with a very high 16% irones ratio (this is the percentage of the smelly molecules in it) and use it to enhance your scents with the wonderfully earthy, powdery, delicate aroma that was prized since antiquity. Same for link lotus absolute, osmanthus, labdanum, oppoponax, oakmoss and so many others....

Being a purveyor of fine essences through his and his ex-wife's company Aqua Oleum, Alec Lawless was in close proximity with good materials for quite a long time. At some point he decided to blend his own scents for sheer pleasure more than their aromatherapy value (and who can blame him, it's ever so inviting to mix those delectable materials!) and, what have you, he seems like he knows a bit or two about the art. Alec uses his own copyrighted "system" of describing and differentiating between notes, baptizing them Heart (the main idea, the "family" classification if you please), Nuance (the character of the composition, the central cord) and Intrigue (the accessory notes that pique your interest and provide the desire to explore further, top notes and nosegays, so to speak).

The line currently includes 10 fragrances made from naturals with only about 1% of synthetics*, of which I am reviewing 5 today (you will find a link for more reviews of the rest on Scenthive at the bottom)


White Blooms
Heart: delicate white floral
Nuance: soft green balsam
Intrigue: warm woody.

If you have never smelled real essences from flowers you're missing on a whole brave world: the essences vibrate with a Kirlian aura, emitting their life-force on paper, on skin, wherever. Those dregs in perfume bottles that pass as floral fragrances these days do not possess even one iota of that kind of vibracy. White Blooms is expectedly an orgy of lovely flowers, of which orange blossoms, jasmine and the sweet honeyed mantle of beeswax comprise the very core. It's awfully pretty ~without being all "demure" like so many office scents are~ and it is positively optimistic: sunny, feminine, ambrosial, wonderful. "White Champac and orange blossoms cover a faint hint of pink lotus and jasmine. Delicacy is maintained by using absolutes of hay and beeswax to impart soft warm green notes, which are, in turn supported by a base of sandalwood, frankincense and a light vanilla courtesy of benzoin resin".

Amber
Heart: masculine floral
Nuance: balsamic incense
Intrigue: herbs and spice.

Let it be said that I am not an "amber person". I mentally picture those people ooohing and aaahing over the densest of amber fragrances as big, "wooly" personalities with terrific social skills, engulfing hugs and always a virtual pattisserie of things to offer in the remisses of their cupboards. Although I don't stand small myself, I am certainly none of the above and my house-warming gestures usually involve on-the-spot preparing of little amuse-bouche (Better not shop for sweet things if no-one is scheduled to appear on my doorstep I tell you!). Having said that, most ambers usually strike me as pleasant on the one hand, but too embulient, too "expressive", too sweet somehow; and usually they scare the hell out of me with their gigantic sillage-d tentacles! To its credit this Amber follows the prime example of Lutensian vision and adds a fat dollop of herbal and spicy elements that manage to give a culinary aspect (the housewarming bit of something roasting in the background) while it simultaneously gives a lightly cool aspect through frankincense and melancholic myrrh (essences I am especially drawn to). It makes me feel comfortable without having that heavy, petting aunt with the auburn curly hair insisting I tell her "all about my classmates and my boyfriends" and I can finally relax... "Subtle hints of spice, mint, caraway and thyme evolve on the skin to reveal a floral heart of jasmine, lavender, rose and clary sage. The base is provided by labdanum, frankincense, sandalwood and myrrh with hints of vanilla and patchouli".

Trade Wind
Heart: cool sea
Nuance: warm earth
Intrigue: warm wind.

There's nothing more difficult than creating a "marine" or "ozonic" fragrance with natural materials. I believe it's nigh impossible because that family strongly depends on the popularised synthetics of the 90s. Trade Wind manages to just skim Charybdis, by opting to borrow the warmer elements of earth with its rooty aroma (very discernible vetiver and woods) and folding them into saltier things (seaweed compliments vetiver well, both sharing a salty nuance). The result is not exactly a marine and it's not screechily persistent and piercing like most marines are, which is a good thing. "Seaweed absolute with mint and violet leaf conjure up the ocean whilst galbanum resin, sandalwood, and vetivert hint at the soft warm earth. Carried in the breeze are faint impressions of orange flowers, linden blossoms, hay and nutmeg

Souk
Heart: Precious woods
Nuance: rose and spice
Intrigue: Incense.

No prizes for guessing this is a Middle-East and India-inspired fragrance: the very elements comprising it, from rose to incense to spice, suggest the East and its bazaarss. Perhaps because it's such a traditional concept or because Lutens has spoiled me rotten with his own mirage of Felix Arabia with dried fruits and dirty armpits I wasn't impressed as much. "The haunting smells of the spice markets, the Arab love affair with the rose, fragrant gardens, precious woods, resins and incense. Sandalwood, frankincense and Cedar of Lebanon are blended with balsams to provide a complex woody heart. Rose Maroc, jasmine, orris and neroli bring floral tributes from surrounding lands. Citrus fruits, herbs and oriental spices bring nuance from the market stalls and the ancient mysterious opoponax suggests incense with help from frankincense and sandalwood".

Tangos
Heart: violet leaf, tobacco
Nuance: Jasmine, rose
Intrigue: guaiacwood.

"Needs to be worn by a dark haired woman day or night if you have the confidence" is how Tangos is presented on the site. The thing practically beckoned me, calling my name. Dark hair, check. Confidence, check. Day or night wearing, check (I wear whatever whenever). Finding out it was originally made for a friend from Argentina based upon her choices of aromatics was titillating. The reality is it smells of many things that amalgamate into a musky, rose-tobacco mix with prominent florals in the framing. There is a bitter and also a sweet element antagonising each other and I feel like it should have been a little more feathered out so as to let the essences project more clearly ~this happens after a couple of hours on skin, I'd love it to be so from the start. "A deep green sultry forest (oak moss, violet leaf, vetivert Bourbon and tobacco) slowly releases complex floral bursts (jasmine, ylang, rose Otto, geranium Bourbon, vanilla and rose Maroc) with hints of herb and spice (hay, coriander, tonka bean)."

Please visit Scenthive for more reviews on the fragrances by Essentially Me.

I have a set of all the fragrances (minus the quantity I tried) for giving away to a lucky reader!

*Disclaimer on account of Essentially-Me.co.uk: "Synthetic fragrance compounds usually have petrochemical-derived ingredients. The ones we use are about 50% petrochemical-derived, with the rest made up of turpentine derivatives (that is, synthetic molecules created from chemically processing alpha-pinene which is extracted from pine trees)”

Body Painting Jack O'Kundalini taking "Jack in the Pulpit" by Geogia O'Keefe as the starting point via livingbrush.com. Tangoing couple via cam.net.uk


In the interests of full disclosure we have been sent samples of the line.

Parisienne limo sex?

I just got sent the full 60-seconds commercial of Parisienne by Yves Saint Laurent with Kate Moss. Did I mention they went a bit overboard with the raunch? Or is limo sex (or the memory of sex fantasized in limos) still popular? I think the pouting on Kate Moss shows that she's taking it far too seriously. In my opinion a good reminiscence of frantic sex should employ a little self-depreciation, some humour, some tears, some laughs...
Check it out on this link.

Fata Morgana: Arabesque...

I'll take communion with sea water,
distilled from your body drop by drop,
in an ancient copper cup from Algiers,
as done by pirates of old before the fight.

Where are you coming from? From Babylon.
Where are you going? To the eye of the cyclone.
Whom do you love? A Gypsy maid.
What is her name? Fata Morgana*.

A leather sail, all smeared with wax,
smelling of cedar-wood, of incense and of varnish,
like the smell of the hold in an aging ship
built in olden times on Euphrates in Phoenicia.

Where are you coming from? From Babylon.
Where are you going? To the eye of the cyclone.
Whom do you love? A Gypsy maid.
What is her name? Fata Morgana.

Fire-hued rust in the mines of Sina,
the capes of Gerakini and Stratoni.
That ship-coating, that old blessed rust gave us birth,
It feeds us, feeds on us, and then it kill us!

Where are you coming from? From Babylon.
Where are you going? To the eye of the cyclone.
Whom do you love? A Gypsy maid.
What is her name? Fata Morgana.






























The poem Fata Morgana by sea-faring Greek poet Nikos Kavvadias is set to music and sung by Mariza Koch.

*A "fata morgana" is a mirage, an optical phenomenon caused by abrupt variances in air temperature. Objects on the horizon, such as islands, cliffs, ships or icebergs, appear elongated and elevated

All photos © by Elena Vosnaki

Perfume tips from Danny Ventura

Perfume and scented products should be used at the lower end of the body upwards: "The logic is the fact that we lose around 80 per cent of the body heat through our head and the top portion of the body. So one should actually wear a perfume on a lower part of one's body -- even a décolletage or the armpits are places where you could put the perfume," emphasises Danny, who was actively involved in the making of 'A Scent by Issey Miyake.'
Read the rest on what fragrance expert Danny Ventura has to say on this dainindia.com link.

Corroborates nicely what Diogenes the philosopher did: "After having anointed his feet with perfume, he said that the ointment from his head mounted up to heaven, and that from his feet up to his nose". [source]

La Prairie Life Threads~Silver, Gold, Platinum: new fragrances

Luxe Swiss brand of skincare and cosmetics La Prairie had issued Silver Rain a few seasons ago to lukewarm results. Now a trio of fragrances, the collection Life Threads in Silver, Gold and Platinum is entering the market fronted by French actress Arielle Dombasle with hopes of scoring one better. Constance Georges-Picot is behind the new line.
Silver encompasses notes of green leaves, golden bergamot, all-spice, jasmine, orange blossom, sandalwood, musk and peppered moss in a woody floral composition.
Gold is a warm and spicy oriental with top notes of mandarin, Chinese prune, and clove. The heart rests on ylang ylang, coriander, lily of the valley, rose and cinnamon, while the base incorporates vanilla, musk, myrrhe, incense, cedar and patchouli.
Platinum is a "modern and elegant" floral chypre in which violet leaves, galbanum, prune, jasmine, rose, leather, cardamom, iris, patchouli, vetiver, amber, oakmoss and labdanum intermingle.

The designation of precious metals for feminine fragrances is an old practice, famously exploited by Dana and later by Estee Lauder (Dazzling Silver, Dazzling Gold) as well as Claude Montana with his discontinued collection of three scents (Argent, Or et Cuivre) and so the new fragrances by La Prairie follow well-charted territories while the notes seem to correspond to what is populary referred to as "silvery" or "golden" smells. Nothing revolutionary then, but of course we will only pass judgement when we sample them.

The two official sites lifethreads.com et laprairie.com will be featuring small teasers with Arielle. Launch is scheduled for 15 October with prices of 100 euros for 50 ml/1.7oz which puts them in the higher-end of department store fragrances.

Juliette Has a Gun Calamity J: new fragrance

Romano Ricci, progeny of the well-known Nina Ricci family, is responsible for the playful and whimsical Juliette has a Gun fragrances which include Citizen Queen, Lady Vengeance, and Miss Charming. Right after introducing "Bullet", literally a bullet-shaped atomiser for his fragrances, there is a new masculine proposition this time: Calamity J. named after the notorious Calamity Jane of the West or perhaps hinting at the Juliette of the eponymous brand.

Although marketed as a masculine, the new fragrance is aimed at rebellious women, much like the Wild West heroine, and is centered around a 35% concentration of musk cocktail. Romano Ricci wanted it to recall the essence of a dandy, with an aura that couldn't be characterised neither floral, nor fruity, nor citric, opting for a woody-ambery nuance that is supported by patchouli, amber, iris and musks.

The face to front such a fragrance is Lou Doillon, the sister of Charlotte Gainsbourg (who will be fronting the new Balecianga fragrance as discussed recently) and daughter of Jane Birkin, muse of L'air de Rien perfume by Miller Harris. Her athletic, dynamic but still unconventional physique posed in the nude was considered very fitting the rebellious concept of the series. Romano liked the idea and the "it-ness" of Lou so much he is seriously considering of making her his official "face" of the entire line.
The fragrance is set to launch this November internationally and will be presented in a roll-on version in 2010. Prices for Juliette Has a Gun Calamity J. will be 75 euros for 50ml/1.7oz Eau de Parfum and 98 euros for 100ml/3.4oz.

pic via flavor-magazine.com

New perfume addresses in Paris: shopping info

In the middle of an economic recession that affects fashion as well as the fragrance sector, new stores are still opening. For Parisian shoppers and those travelling to the city to savour perfumes and other pleasures, two new worthy of note addresses:

Different Latitudes, a company founded in 2005 by David Froissard and Loïc Le Guen as an International Luxury Trader that specializes in distribution of luxe brands, image counselling and marketing, is coming to the Parisian market with a dynamic move. They're bringing some of their portfolio in Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, a shop-in-shop stand including niche brand Neotantric, Frapin, Amouage and Robert Piguet.
Piguet is amply represented by Fracas and Baghari pour femme, Bandit and Visa pour femme, Cravache pour homme and the newly re-issued Futur, a formula closely following the instructions of Rober Piguet himself in the 1960s: the US-owned Fashion Fragrances company had the rights for a decade and the re-issue was finally orchestrated by Aurélien Guichard of Givaudan. Futur by Piguet is a blend of hesperides, violet, jasmine, yalng ylang, cedar and patchouli for a fresh and floral touch.
Amouage, much loved on these pages, is enjoyed in 30 countries with fragrances created by la creme de la creme of perfumers: Guy Robert, Jean-Claude Ellena, Bertrand Duchaufour, Maurice Roucel et Lucas Sieuzac. The result in scents such as Jubilation 25, Gold, Dia, Lyric, Ubar and Epic is nothing short of majestic.

Guerlain on the other hand is opening a new stand-alone boutique in le Marais designed by Patricia Grosdemange at 10 rue des Francs-Bourgeois. The new store is paying homage to several emblematic fragrances and products of the historical house in 110 square meters full of the best craftmanship.
Guerlain has always paid attention to their stores and the history of the Guerlain house boutique addresses is interesting: The first one was opened at 42, rue de Rivoli in 1828, conceived by the fertile imagination of Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain. In 1830 a new building is chosen for Guerlain perfumes and cosmetics in 15, rue de la Paix. Jacques et Pierre Guerlain establish themselves at the helm of the house in 1914, and with the help of architect Charles Mews they build the legendary boutique at 68, avenue des Champs Elysées. The space will host the institut Guerlain in 1939 and will be panegerically renovated in 2005 with the innovative skills of interior designers Andrée Putman and Maxime d’Angeac. Places to make one dream...

Les Parfums: Paris perfumes exhibition

From 2nd to 5th of October, Paris will be hosting the fragrance exhibition Les Parfums. A trade show aiming to highlight the new directions in perfumery and re-ignite the love for perfume, all hosted in the city that put scent on a pedestral. For professionals, the initiated and the neophytes, the trade show Les Parfums is free for all and will feature special prices on milestone perfumes from the houses hosted, a consultation and selling point of the best publications dedicated to fragrance, and meeting-up with some of the creators of the most prominent niche makers in today's market:


Amouage, Claudie Pierlot, Etat Libre d'Orange, Frank Los Angeles, Ginaluca Bulega Parfums, Isabey, Kalaris Milano, Linari, Mona di Orio, Neotantric Oasis, P.Frapin et cie, Parfum d'Empire, Parfums d'Orsay, Poiray, Robert Piguet, Susanne Lang, the Hype Noses, Vero Profumo.
The official site of Salon Les Parfums can be reached on this link (in French right now, but will feature an English speaking section shortly).

The exhibition Les Parfums will take place on 2-5 October from 9am to 6:30am (on Saturday till 8:30pm) at L'Atelier Richelieu, 60 rue de Richelieu, 75002, Paris
(Metro: Bourse, Pyramides, Palais Royal)

Have fun!

Aqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile: fragrance review

After Eau d'Italie and their watercolour rendering of the magnolia flower, Magnolia Romana, a formula that takes magnolias into a gouache approximation without their true oilier features visible, Magnolia Nobile by Aqua di Parma is another fresh take on the magnolia flower; like an unmade bed in black and white it fuses the contrapunto of cool and warm into sciaphobia, questioning our own gaze into seeing things that might not be there.

Magnolia as a note is proving to be very popular lately, if we consider recent launches: a new Helena Rubinsten fragrance fronted by Demi More, Wanted, the lovely Eau de Fleur de Magnolia by Kenzo (which we reviewed here), the "cologne florale" J'Adore L'Eau by Dior and Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel.
In the last few years there seem to be big trends on certain perfume notes which take over and almost dominate the market: the year of iris flummoxed us with allusions to the Florentine rhizomes when the (respectable and often lovely) substitues concocted in a lab were playing hide-and-seek in the bottle; the from-top-to-bottom craziness for oud left many with the impression that the pathological secretion of the Aquillaria tree was indeed the source of the complex and medicinal smell in their fragrance (at those price points, not so!); the dominance of cleaned-up, de-moleculed patchouli has been harbouring a progeny of the hundreds into almost every new release to hit the market for some time now. It seemed magnolia couldn't escape for long...
Acqua di Parma was inspired by the ephemeral flower that can be smelled ‘in the gardens of elegant villas at Lake Como’ (in northern Italy).’ After the powdery-orange trail of Iris Nobile, Magnolia Nobile is woodsier, fresher and greener. A perfume of ‘elegant femininity intended for women who don’t need to attract attention.’

The natural magnolia blossom is a big waxy embrace of ginormous petals that seem to exude both a crystalline, lemony facet and more intimate, creamy jasmine-like effusions that can take a slightly tinfoil-like odour under some weather conditions to my nose. The treatment in Magnolia Nobile is following ~just like the bottle~ the one of iris in Iris Nobile of the same line, where the hesperidic top (especially in the lighter, more upbeat Eau de Toilette as opposed to the more chypre Eau de Parfum) is tieing the composition in style with the cologne genre that Aqua di Parma so effortlessly encapsulated in their classic Cologne. In Magnolia Nobile the lemony-green facets are pronounced at first, making it a zesty refreshing mix that cannot but provide an euphoric feeling, slightly sweet due to the floral essences, but there is also a familiar plummy-apricoty nuance which brings to mind popular mainstream releases which have been haunting the aisles of malls, restaurants and cinemas for a few years now. The woody musky base is also echoing in my ears like speakers in the car left on some news-relating channel in a sub-human frequency that can be felt more than heard.
In that regard the point of the construction of a "niche" fragrance along those lines (if a LVMH-owned company can be considered that) is eluding me. Magnolia Nobile is quite pleasant and does not become grandiloquent at any point which is a plus, but I cannot deny my disappointment with the familiarity with which it greets me when I expected a novel path that would bring me some Tarkovskian dream sequence. Maybe my expectations were too high. I am holding out for the next Nobile flower in the line before adding a companion to my Aqua di Parma Iris bottle.

Notes for Magnolia Nobile by Aqua di Parma:
Top: bergamot, lemon, citron, green notes
Heart: magnolia, jasmine, rose, tuberose
Base: sandalwood, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla

Available as Eau de Parfum in 100ml/3.4oz and 150ml/5oz at Neiman Marcus and select doors internationally.

One large sample will be offered to a lucky reader. State your interest!

Photograph The Unmade Bed by Imogen Cunningham via personal.pblogs.gr. Ad pic via fashionindie.com

L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh: new fragrance

Hot on the heels of moroccan impressions and no sooner had a review of the newest Havana Vanilla been posted on our pages (a scent in the Travel series from L'Artisan and inspired by the tobacco and vanilla of old Cuba) that we find out positive info on another new L'Artisan Parfumeur coming out: Al Oudh, simply meaning "the oud". Composed by in-house perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and centered on the noble scent of the patholigical secretion of Aquillaria trees, oud or aloeswood, the new oriental fragrance is hypnotically beckoning us into a Middle-Eastern dervish dance, an hypnotic sight from which we can't draw our eyes off. The smoky, nutty complex smell of oud wood with its resemblanc to Band-Aids is definitely the dominating trend in niche releases in the last few seasons, having gained a momentum like there was no tomorrow (Montale was on to something when he burst into the scene with his ouds!). The oud bandwagon has everyone on it from Micalef's Aoud Homme to Tom Ford Oud Wood and more mainstream releases such as YSL M7, which begs the question what will happen if the guy and the gal next to you on the subway will start wearing tons of oud scents on the daily commute. But I digress.
Bertrand is taking the inspiration from the Arabian peninsula and the Spice Route (much like we had reported on Amouage and their new Epic, it's an always popular theme anyway) along with his familiar, honed skills on incense (myrrh, frankincense) to compose a spicy, woody and animalic composition with leathery notes which is reported to be "incredibly strong" as per the perfumer's own words.
The oudh/oud/aoud note is much harped on for being ultra-expensive (and indeed its production is so labour-intensive as to require exorbitant prices), yet new synthetics which mimic its medicinal and smoky scent have lately become available, starting with M7 by Yves Saint Laurent a few years ago (thus bringing the fad all the way downscale to Bath & Body Works recently). This justifies the claim of oud "notes" across the market at every price point. I trust that L'Artisan and Bertrand, with their usual finesse and care for marrying the best of both worlds, will instill a little of the real deal, extended with suave aromachemicals which will support it.

Notes* for L'Artisan Al Oudh:
Top: Cumin, cardamom, pink pepper
Heart: Neroli, rose, castoreum, civet, leather, musk
Base: Oud, sandalwood, Atlas cedar, patchouli, myrrh, incense, vanilla, tonka bean

*please note this is the sequence quotted, although it appears mid notes are comprised of heavier molecules

L'Artisan Al Oudh will be available as Eau de Parfum in 100ml/3.4oz bottles with Arabesque edges and a box that is scalloped with mosque-like decorations. It does look beautiful! (and Lutensian I might add in mischief) It will launch in winter 2009-2010.

info & pic via extrait.it

Maison Francis Kurkdjian: new line & shopping address in Paris

Francis Kurkdjan is no doubt one of the young protagonists of the perfume universe around us with huge best-sellers of mainstream perfumery (Gaultier Le Male, Narciso Rodriguez for Her), more exclusively-distributed fragrances (the boutique Guerlain Rose Barbare, the Dior exclusives Cologne trio, Indult) as well as commisioned scents and his own private label since 2001. Now it seems he has finally found the funds, encouragement and business consulting which allowed him to expand into a self-named brick & mortar boutique in Paris, bearing the name Maison Francis Kurkdjan.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian is located at 5 rue d’Alger (Paris 1er arrondisement) ~very close to Galerie Nast~ and is a building of glass, steel and wood designed by Yann le Coadic and Alessandro Scotto bearing the signature of its mastermind nevertheless. Francis imagined his own boutique as a project reflecting "the art of life, the way to share the things he feels". Inspired by the covered galleries of older Paris it fuses elements of the artisanal boutique of old.
The Kurkdjian perfumery house not only caters to the bespoke service which Francis has been involved in for some time now, through his own site, but also offers new products: in Cologne (Cologne du Jour, Cologne du Soir), eaux de toilette, parfum, parfums d’intérieur (home fragrance) and scented candles, accompanied by Papier Encens (incense paper), scented leather bracelets and a matching laundry detergent (Aqua Universalis, the piece de resistance!), deodorant and soaps in the exact same scent ~from top to toe you'll be "universally eau-ed". A "lifestyle" approach which comes as a surprise!


Navigate in Paris 1er via Google Maps on this link.


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