Tom Ford Private Blend Tuscan Leather: fragrance review

Created in 2007 by perfumers Harry Frémont and Jacques Cavallier for the Tom Ford Private Blend line, Tuscan Leather is an atypical leather fragrance not quite for everyone; leather enthusiasts might find enough quirks and crannies to elaborate on, but still be puzzled by its antithetical, polarising nature.

via stickssn.org

On one hand, the introductory blast of petrol fumes plus red fruits (mainly the tart scent of raspberries) is not exactly conductive to what people have come to expect from luxury leather blends. The expected pipe tobacco-leather upholstery richness with its fruity, bittersweet and whiskey nuances contrasts intellectually with the effect witnessed here. We have also been familiarised with the fuzzy apricot and amaretto-apricot-pits ambience of Lutens's Daim Blond, for a suede-like scent, but the tartness of berries offsets the leathery pungency here rather than mollify it. The leather perfume note in the Tom Ford is rubbery, smoky, like shoe polish and cool tires. If your elegant leather ideal has always been Chanel's Cuir de Russie, Tom Ford proposes a modern take on leather, but with much less vanilla and musks than in Bvlgari's rubbery Black.

On the other hand, pungent but restrained and under specific circumstances even velvety, with a true leathery note like a nubuck handbag fresh off the mending shop, Tuscan Leather is a cross between luxury items, new bucket seats in your new Bentley and furniture polish smeared generously on wooden planks. The leathery nuance by saffron, bittersweet,  fits perfectly. There is even a hemp like note, and I was under the impression I was delusional until I saw The Non Blonde claim the same. The terpenic, pine-like facets, revealing themselves through resinous citrusy elements (frankincense being one), are jarring, instead of airy or citric like in Etro's Gomma. Perhaps even more jarring by the addition of an oud base, a direction in which Montale followed with his Aoud Leather two years later. Perversely, the more the fragrance stays on, the more the raspberry comes through. Trippy!

Essentially linear, Tuscan Leather projects well and lasts average. In a pinch, if you sprayed Givenchy's Hot Couture over a gritty leather armchair, preferably in a newly polished library, you might start getting what this is all about. Butcher on women's skin than on men's but also sweeter in the final whisper, it's a unisex fragrance like all the Tom Ford Private Blends, which demands trying on first. It's not for shy, girly-girl women or men lacking self confidence.

Notes for Tom Ford Private Blend Tuscan Leather:
Raspberry, thyme, saffron, jasmine, olibanum, leather, oud/aoudh/agarwood.

Tom Ford Tuscan Leather is available in 50ml and 100ml bottles (from what I have seen, other Private Blends come in 250ml) of Eau de Parfum in select doors where the Tom Ford Private Blend is sold.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Leather Fragrances reviews series, Tom Ford news & reviews

David Yurman The Essence Collection: new fragrances

David Yurman after his first foray in perfume with his eponymous scent is issuing now The Essence Collection, a trio in identical bottles a la niche. The Essence Collection includes three evocative scents, each echoing the artistry of David Yurman’s signature fine jewelry and the emotions associated with three of his favorite gemstones - lustrous pink tourmaline, vivid peridot and glistening citrine. Each Essence is identified with a personal touch from Sybil Yurman—a fluid brushstroke of paint mirroring the gemstone-inspired color.

In the spirit of David Yurman jewelry, The Essence Collection is designed to be worn alone or paired, a layering game that "individualises" the scent for each woman. The Essence Collection has been artfully sculpted for the sense of smell by renowned perfumer of the original David Yurman fragrance, Harry Fremont of Firmenich.

Delicate Essence (Tourmaline): Romantic and feminine, with notes of pink pepper, lotus blossom and sparkling orange.
3.4 fl. oz. Eau de Toilette Spray $85.00

Fresh Essence (Peridot): Crisp and playful, with notes of sparkling apple, cassis, juicy red fruits and fresh greens.
3.4 fl. oz. Eau de Toilette Spray $85.00

Exotic Essence (Citrine): Mysterious and sensual, with notes of sparkling mandarin, casablanca lily, rose petals and exotic woods.
3.4 fl. oz. Eau de Toilette Spray $85.00

The Essence Collection will be available at David Yurman boutiques, www.davidyurman.com, and at Bloomingdale’s in stores next week.

notes, pics via press release

Questions & Answers with perfumer Harry Fremont of Firmenich (with focus on new All American Stetson)

Harry Frémont needs no introduction really: He is a perfumer at the top brand Firmenich and famous for several bestsellers such as Lancome Ô oui! and Miracle,Calvin Klein cK One (with Alberto Morillas), Kenneth Cole Black (with Sabine de Tscharner), Ralph Lauren Romance and the new Romance Always Yours , Nino Cerruti Image for women, the upscale jewel-glam-into-fragrance project for David Yurman, as well as more esoteric niche offerings such as Avaritia in the 7 Sins line of S-Perfumes by artist Sacré Nobi.

Although born in the world-famous resort of Cannes, in the south of France (therefore growing up in an environment of wildflowers and lush gardens which remained an inpiration throughout his career), Harry Frémont has lived and worked in New York for almost 20 years. Graduating from one of the most elite perfumery schools in France, the ISIPCA at Versailles, he went on to receive not one but two consecutive awards for his olfactive creations by the prestigious Societé Technique des Parfumeurs de France in both 1984 and 1985. In fact he is the only two-time winner! In 1987, Harry Frémont joined the Firmenich International Fragrance Center in New York after spending three years at the Corporate Headquarters in Geneva. Harry is attached to beautiful flowers, naturally: mimosa, Bulgarian rose, jasmine sambac and broom as well as interesting raw materials such as tagetes. It's not therefore surprising the pefume he admires is the cool and unusual Coriandre de Jean Couturier. Citing his love of gardening, his wife and their three daughters (Lauren, Joy and Estée ~I know, incidentally all names of existing perfumes!)as sources of inspiation and as perfumers he looks up to Alberto Morillas and Edmond Roudnitska, Harry was available for some questions and answers via the Coty team on the occassion of the launch of All American Stetson which he composed. Enjoy the glimpse!


1.Tell us about what it means to create a new Stetson fragrance?
My vision was to capture the essence of the “American” man and the Western spirit.

2.What makes All American different from Stetson Original? Any similarities?
Stetson Original is very classic and warm, being more of a classic oriental. The All American is more modern and youthful, as its fresh aromatic woody character gives a very outdoorsy feeling. Both fragrances are bold and masculine.

3.What was your inspiration for All American Stetson?
The inspiration behind this fragrance was the outdoorsy, adventurous guy that everyone admires. He has a very likeable, youthful “All American” spirit, with an exciting modern edge.

4. What are the core values of this fragrance from your point of view?
Authentic, modern, outdoorsy, performance

5. How would you describe the fragrance in general terms?
All American is fresh yet warm, vibrant yet sensual.

6. Which family does it belong to?
The fragrance is in the Aromatic Woody family.

7.Could you tell us about the olfactive structure? Top/heart/base notes?
All American opens with the cooling freshness of cedar leaf, ginger root and guava NaturePrint®*, exuding an invigorating sensation. The heart of the fragrance is built around rich notes of black suede and nutmeg offering an intriguing sensuality, while notes of sage and water fern capture a vibrant confidence that is both rugged and modern. The fragrance dries down with the sensual warmth of amber wood and musks, flawlessly blended with notes of vetiver and patchouli giving it depth and masculinity.

8. Are there any unique ingredients that make All American Stetson special or different?
A unique combination of top Firmenich aromatic raw materials (plicatone), blended with Firmenich musks (muscenone) and woody notes (norlimbanol, z11)

9. When and where should All American Stetson be worn?
All American Stetson should be worn all the time! It has a rugged freshness for daytime and warm rich tones that are perfect for the evening.

10.Could you tell us how you would imagine the All American Stetson man?
Bold and adventurous, fearless, always pushing his limits, always looking at the brighter side of life.

Thank you to Harry Frémont and the Coty team.

*"Natureprint" is the Firmenich copyrighted name of headspace technology, a technique of collecting and then mimicing the living air around a plant in the lab, thus producing life-like-smelling essences.

pic of water fern via patrix/flickr (some rights reserved)