Jil Sander No.4: fragrance review & history & free perfume giveaway

Although No.4 by Jil Sander comes nowhere near the novelty of Maxwell's laws of electrodynamics, it is despite its in the wings presence rather memorable to me both for its expansive radius of spicy oriental scent and the fact that its relative success condoned an infamous scented catastrophe just one year later, Spellbound by Estee Lauder (1991). But whereas you'd have to dig a moat around the house that kept a bottle of Spellbound (even in a remote drawer, under lock and key in a wooden box), Jil Sander No.4, although a characteristic 1980s-style powerhouse that would challenge the best of the lot in radiance, thrived on a somewhat less carnivorous attitude, This is exactly what makes it worthwhile of rediscovering it nowadays that we crave more flesh-eating perfumes after a prolonged 20 year-lasting perfume diet of either strict veganism or one for severe hypoglycemia. It's a the Lana del Ray effect: there's something trashy retro about her, but refreshingly different from the average pop singer too which makes it very "now and happening".

Tomb of Talma by Helmut Newton, Pere Lachaise cemetary  Paris 1977, via Pinterest

Coming out in 1990, No.4 by Jil Sander had both accumulated the gist of the big orientals that dominated the decade of carnage (and emulated their core elements), such as YSL Opium, CK Obsession, Dior Poison and to a lesser degree Cinnabar and Cacharel Loulou, but had also devised a way to give an impression of quiet animalism, an aura of worn elegance that was antithetical to the distance that the quarterback shoulder pads of these fragrances evoked at the same time.

It's utterly meaningless to try to differentiate "notes" in this perfume, as the weaving of each thread in this complex macramé is so intricate and complex that it would be more of an exercise in author's vanity than an actual helpful breakdown. The notes read like there's everything and the kitchen sink in it. It'd be much more practical to say that No.4 by Jil Sander is warm, perceptibly spicy with anise and what I sense as clove-coriander (a whiff of pomander), with a tuberose heart winking to Poison's direction. And more importantly it has the sort of oriental base that characterizes big 1980s classics: big, proud, Amazonian, sounding its barbaric yawp over the rooftops of the world.

If you like that sort of nyctophyliac thing, you will like this sort of thing, but it's worth keeping in mind these are bombastic perfumes worthy of a mini Katrina in radius; be sparing and considerate of your fellow human beings when applying, don't ambush them in the morning train to work.
If you enjoy anise and clove orientals but want something more contemporary (with a much higher price tag), you can look into Noir Epices by Frederic Malle for an alternative. If you'd rather settle for the under-appreciated underdog, No.4 can be found online for a decent price.

I have a vintage boxed miniature to share with a lucky reader. Please comment below this post with your impressions/opinions/questions to enter the draw. Draw is open internationally till Sunday midnight and winner will be announced some time on Monday.

Notes for Jil Sander No.4:
Top: geranium, peach, bergamot, plum, anise
Heart: rose, violet, jasmine, tuberose, heliotrope, ylang ylang, coriander
Base: amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, musk, civet, cedar, tonka bean.

Related reading on PerfumeShrine:
Underrated Perfume Day (reviews of forgotten fragrances),
Oriental Perfume Basics.

Best Green, Leafy Violets & Watery Crystal Violet Fragrances (Violet Series)

A dew drop resting atop a deep-hued petal, its violet shade reflected and refracted in a thousand tiny facets, like scattered confetti through a kaleidoscope. Moisture makes for an enhanced experience of scent and dewy violets are such a psychedelic image that the fragrances inspired by them are sure to put a growl in your motor.

This is part of Perfume Shrine's Violet Series perfume articles focusing on violets-laced fragrances in all their nuances, so if you missed previous posts, take a minute to consult Violet, Violet Leaf & Ionones (for an essay on the perfumery materials), Best Soft Powdery Violet Fragrances and Best Woody, Earthy Violet Fragrances. Or just skip right down to the suggestions for leafy, green violets with an upbeat, contemporary take.

via basenotes

Today we're zooming into scents which take violet as a point of departure to evoke a more "naturalistic" impression whereupon violet is never without the foliage it is surrounded by and the leaves of the plant render their own dewy, somewhat metallic tonality; a very popular effect in unisex and masculine fragrances (especially in the modern fougere genre). Rather than the retro powdery (close to iris) or earthy note of the violet flower and its roots, violet leaves lend an unusual freshness, not to mention unlike the flowers they can be successfully extracted, which creates endless possibilities for modern, transparent but persistent fragrances. This is also thanks to the coupling of violet leaf absolute with synthetic musks and aromachemicals mimicking cedarwood, such as Iso E Super, or ambergris, such as Ambrox. Here is a personal selection. Feel free to add your own in the comments.

Green Violet Leaves Fragrances

Dior Fahrenheit (classic fougere)
Frederic Malle Dans tes Bras (with a salty skin effect)
Jean Charles Brosseau Fleurs d'Ombre Violette Menthe (green mint suffuses violets in freshness)
Les Nez The Unicorn Spell (with a fresh green beans note up top, but satisfying and polished)
L'Artisan Parfumeur Verte Violette (quite green & clean with an inedible quality, halfway between damp and dry)
Santa Maria Novella Violetta (with a citrus top note)

Yosemite Valley at Night, Yosemite National Park, USA, by Phil Hawkins

Crystal-clear, Aqueous Violet Fragrances

Balenciaga L'Essence (perfect for the office)
Cartier L'Eau de Cartier (a clean musky style fragrance with a dewy effect)
DSquared She Wood (a clear, transparent violet with cedar)
Marc Jacobs Violet (very light splash)

Stay tuned for your upcoming part of the Violet Series tackling Sweet, Candied Violet Perfumes.

Aftelier Cuir de Gardenia: fragrance review

"And at night I love to listen to the stars. It's like five hundred million little bells. [...]"You...you alone will have the stars as no one else has them....only you will have stars that can laugh."
~Antoine de Saint Exypery, Le Petit Prince.

Cuir de Gardenia, gardenia's leather. It is my tendency to focus on names, believing that they carry their own wisdom. So coming across this enigmatic coinage I couldn't help but pause and think, maybe lost a bit into my own lethologica. The leathery facets of gardenia, a flower becoming skin-like, the hide of an animal thrown atop tender skin. Yes, it sounded sexy as hell. Is sexy all there is when it comes to perfumes though?

Working with gardenia for a perfumer presents its own challenges. The flower doesn't yield a sufficient or steadily available extract (though there is one in extremely limited quantities) so an approximation is conducted through the synergy of pliable materials; doubly difficult when sourcing only off the natural palette. Of those, I sense the generous use of jasmine, with its lactonic and green facets highlighted, in Aftelier's Cuir de Gardenia; they produce an at once fresh and creamy variation on the gardenia theme, a sort of Pur Desir de Gardenia meets Hedy Lammar.
The mossy element in the base suggests that this deceptive floral hides a more introspective core beneath its veneer and it's worth waiting for it to surface beyond the delicious flower atop.

Artisanal perfumer Mandy Afteler did use a tiare flower absolute from a small producer (tiare is the Tahitian gardenia), which accounts for the more exotic and, yes, the "creamy smelling" feel you get upon testing this bewitching fragranc. The candied aspects meet the roughness of castoreum (an animalic note traditionally used in leather blends). She also mentions ethyl phenyl acetate, which although is usually rendering a rosy not in perfumes, here she describes it as lending a whiff of sweet peas. The liquid version of Cuir de Gardenia is oily, lending a softer ambience, but it doesn't feel oily, it absorbs quickly and well.

I did not find a huge stonking beat of leathery butchness, nor a dark, dangerous, skanky gardenia that would shriek Norma Desmond like off the vial (for a different take read Gaia's The Non Blonde's review), but then neither did I expect to: Cuir de Gardenia isn't a "cuir" per se, it's an illusion of an animal turned into a flower. If anything, it's more musky than leathery. It's a daydream, a waxy memento of sensuality hidden in a drawer for a rainy day, the feeling of physical happiness. It's a matutine moment stolen, when you can hear the stars laugh.

Aftelier's Cuir de Gardenia is available in liquid extrait de parfum and solid versions, on the official Aftelier eboutique. Although natural perfumes come at an increased cost per ml compared to commercial perfumes (even niche), I find that the options of owning minis and solids are a lovely way to get a feel of the work of artisans in the field.

The Fragranta Man has some interesting info on the sourcing of the materials. 

In the interests of disclosure I was sent a sample by the perfumer. 

Fragrance Trends for 2014: The Notes That Will Dominate in Your Perfume

Although it seems like it, fragrance vogues aren't just random, nor do they follow the latest celebrity, image first, perfume formula later. The perfume producing companies who manufacture them are actually doing extensive R&D into what captures market interest and follow up with combinations that ring at once familiar and a little different to keep interest going. The perfume barometer, the Seven Scents company, has revealed the fragrance notes that are looking like they're going to be big for the autumn and winter of 2014-2015. Looking at one year ahead, then, what will your perfume bring?

It seems like what we perfume aficionados know instinctively, that autumn and winter are natural habitat for fragrances that "evoke a sense of warmth and comfort" (to quote Miri Scott, the insight manager of Seven Scents) is a market watch conclusion. To reinforce this desired feeling, Scott prescribes "darker, rich rose and red berries, as well as a dash of spirit-inspired notes to give a seductive character to fragrances".

Rose is looking like a winner for the third consecutive year, reinforced by intense notes of (yet again) oudh and plush, velvety saffron. These notes will add depth to the rose and create elegant bouquets.
For sophistication and edginess, Scott reveals a direction to "spirits' notes" such as gin-like juniper berries, or the smoky aroma of whiskey and rum.


The company goes so far as to categorize the fragrance directions for autumn and winter 2014-2015 in three distinct trends:

• Futuristic Folklore: bold and potent compositions with leather notes and urban woody notes lead to a structured base of metallic musks and amber. 
• Energetic Kaleidoscope: Warm and spicy fragrances inspired by the global village, with cosmopolitan accents of local spices.
• Engineered Evolution: Responding to the demands of the digital generation, this path offers fruity berries, floral notes and familiar sandalwood and musks as the base for fragrances to appeal to the younger segment. 

Mock as you may on the imaginative names, the drive of demand through the ubiquity of ingredients and the opportunities for innovation thus created account for a reach of 15.7 billion dollars by 2017, no mean feat in itself.

A Faded Polaroid: My review of the New M.Micallef "Mon Parfum Cristal"

Mon Parfum Cristal is the new release by niche perfume brand M.Micallef. The descriptions and the breakdown of notes (cinnamon, pink pepper, rose, toffy, vanilla, amber, musk) do small justice to the feeling it spontaneously provoked in me.

Arguably a very personal one, but this cuddly, truly lovely, creamy scent is meant for personal associations, so it will have to do. You can find my review of it, replete with complementary media, on this link on Fragrantica.