Le Labo Cuir 28 (Dubai exclusive): fragrance review

What took Le Labo a couple of years to go from announcing Cuir 28 to actually launching it? It's as yet undivulged. Smelling the recently launched fragrance my mind is reeling into a fantasy of Chanel's Sycomore with leather and vanilla. Looks fabulous on paper but in practice it doesn't quite work as intended. Possibly because it looks like two disjointed parts, reminiscent of those kid's toys in which two rolls with images cut in half join at the middle to give you a giraffe's neck with lion's legs or a ballerina with the head of a Hell's Angel. In fact the parable of the latter isn't far removed from the reality of the latest Le Labo Dubai exclusive, Cuir 28.

via thinkgeek.com

Le Labo presents their leather fragrance as "Easy Rider without the sweat and gasoline — blending leather, wood and animal notes to give it a very powerful, dark and memorable personality" Specifically they mention natural vanilla absolute, leather notes (a synthetic base), woods (vetiver), animal notes (ambrox), and musks (muscenone).

Although the opening is jolting for anyone who considers the modern representatives of the "cuir" genre being cuddly and purring kittens like Guerlain Cuir Beluga or other suede fragrances (indeed these lean more to oriental than true leather scents), or spoiled by the plush iris note of Chanel Cuir de Russie, Cuir 28 is an exercise in illusion, an unusual and intriguing composition. Much like Tubereuse Criminelle before it, it hides beneath the shocking prelude a sensitive ballad. In Cuir 28 that ballad is played on the wooden wind instruments: a vanilla oboe and a vetiver clarinet, filling its other's phrases with a bridge in legato. The perfume's opening, smoky, tar-like, phenolic smelling with a touch of that cult Goutal, Eau du Fier and Band Aid worthy (oudh) pungency, isn't particularly animalic smelling, nor is it especially musky scented, but it can be a bit masculine and butch all the same. Wait about 15 minutes though (applying on the skin) and the rest of the composition in Cuir 28 becomes a sweetened vetiver scent, clean and comfortable and really fetching with its very perceptible vanilla. (Possibly there are more synthetic wood notes, like sandalwood, which provide some plush after the thrash.)
The comforting part has been a recent favorite for Le Labo judging from their Moscow exclusive, the extremely hard to come by Benjoin 19. Which beckons the question: Is the East succumbing to a Western taste?

Nevertheless, as is not uncommon with fragrances in the upper echelons of the pricing range, especially when they require a concentrated effort to get hold of as well, the dedicated perfumista might find that the effect is not worth the asking price in the end. Although I have been known to deem at least two of the Le Labo city exclusives, Poivre 23 and Gaiac 10, as worth the jumping through hoops  (and have Mastercard-in-hand capitulated to one), I realize this also has to do with personal preferences, and if you're delirious about leather or vetiver, Cuir 28 is still very worth sampling and I'm glad I tested it; my sample saw good use indeed. Among the city exclusives -and the regular line as well- Cuir 28 is certainly NOT amongst the worst (Limette 27 is probably the dullest), yet it leaves me with a feeling of a missed opportunity. I'd like it turned up a notch.

Fragrance notes for Le Labo Cuir 28: leather, vanilla absolute, woody notes, vetiver and musk.
Le Labo Cuir 28 is exclusively available at Dubai as a city exclusive according to the brand, only the place that was supposed to stock it there (Paris Galley in the Dubai Mall) is closed and until something else opens (which Le Labo informs us it shall), the perfume is nowhere to be found. Fate has no doubt been harsh to Cuir 28...

Related reading on PerfumeShrine: The Leather Fragrance Series, Le Labo Fragrance Reviews & News

The winners of the draw...

...for a brighter set of pearly whites are rickyrebarco and wefadetogray. Congratulations! Please email me, using Contact, and with "smile prize" in the title of the mail, so I can forward your winning coupons to have you profit of your prize.

Thanks everyone for the enthusiastic participation and till the next one!

Lou Reed: 1942-2013

Your face when sleeping is sublime
And then you open up your eyes

Then comes pancake factor number one
Eyeliner, rose hips and lip gloss, such fun
You're a slick little girl, you're a slick little girl
Rouge and coloring, incense and ice
Perfume and kisses, oh it's all so nice
You're a slick little girl, you're a slick little girl

Now we're coming out, out of our closets
Out on the streets, yeah, we're coming out

When you're in bed it's so wonderful
It'd be so nice to fall in love
When you get dressed I really get my fill
People say that it's impossible

Gowns lovely made out of lace
And all the things that you do to your face
You're a slick little girl, you're a slick little girl
Eyeliner, whitener then color the eyes
Yellow and green, oh what a surprise
You're a slick little girl, oh, you're such a slick little girl

Now we're coming out, out of our closets
Out on the streets, yes, we're coming out
Yeah, we're coming out ...



Or as Brian Eno said: ""The first Velvet Underground album only sold 10,000 copies, but everyone who bought it formed a band."

A Different Giveaway Leading to a White Christmas

I'm accosted by several different marketeers and companies, often related to our little scent interest, many times related to peripheral beauty and health products. The chance to touch up one's smile before the holiday parties sounded like a good idea to me, wine and coffee drinker than I am, therefore this is what I'm offering today to anyone who's interested in some free product!

Try being one of 2 lucky winners of the Smile Brilliant LED teeth whitening system which contains:

· 1 LED Accelerator Light
· 1 Teeth Whitening Pen 4ml (containing 22% carbamide peroxide & enough for 7-10 applications)
· 1 lip protector
Looks at once customized and easy to use.

Countries Eligible for the Draw: US, UK, Canada

Please post a comment stating you're interested. Draw is open till Monday midnight and I will pick 2 winners to be announced on Tuesday.

The Re-Issue of Indult, Perfumes Composed by Francis Kurkdjian

“I am very happy to see this fragrance collection under new ownership, permitting these perfumes presented under their original formulations to delight its owners”
– Francis Kurkdjian

As you may have surmised Indult is back. We had talked a bit on these pages on Indult, an old French word from 1498 signifying the privileges given by the french King or the Pope to esteemed individuals. The Christian Latin "Indultum" meaning "concession, favor" is at the root. With the desire to launch something that has comparable exclusivity rights as those bestowed upon by a king, Indult began as a niche line back in 2007 comprised by fragrances issued in only 999 bottles each, automatically entering you in the private club able to order a refill if you have purchased a bottle. Specifically we had zeroed on Tihota, a glorious vanilla fragrance.

So, good news! New owners for Indult, new direction and new bottles lifting the extremely restricted quantities mantle. The line is available at the usual suspect, Luckyscent and its brick & mortar equivalent The Scent Bar, exclusively.