Saturday, December 8, 2012

Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin: new fragrance

“A flower grown under the ruins, cut off from the world, it appears before your eyes; to all of us to open our eyes. I took courage in both hands, in her flowing Rheingold hair. On the lips, I tasted blood. My girl from Berlin showed combative, more beautiful than ever – and so I broke my contempt and even my shame, hiding under the guise of my pride. Through the power of criticism, of love and hate, God and the devil, death and life, I drew a furrow in which she disappeared. And while the maelstrom beats on me, I pay homage to her beauty enraged”.
~Serge Lutens

Cryptic, no? Typical. The Girl from Berlin (this is what La Fille de Berlin translates to) recalls a Siegfried Idyll in some ways, but it is apparently the next Serge Lutens export fragrance to hit stores in March 2013. The renowned aesthete not only just launched in Berlin's Hotel Adlon his third book "Berlin à Paris", a collection of photographs from the years 1967 to 2008, but he also introduces his upcoming fragrance "La fille de Berlin"; an elegant velvety, dark red rose with peppered romantic nuances, dedicated to the real-life drama that helps self-expression flourish.

The genre of spicy rose is rather overpopulated (see Cinabre by Maria Candida Gentile for a fabulous specimen, as well as Parfum Sacre by Caron) and Serge is no stranger to spices, from smoky clove in Serge Noire, to dirty cumin in Arabie and El Attarine, to tart ginger in Five o'clock au Gingembre. 
The ruby-red color of the juice inside surely speaks of drama and has caught my attention, at the very least.

La fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens is an Eau de Parfum concentration available in 50 ml for 78 € from March 2013  
Serge Lutens's book: Berlin á Paris • 176 pages • 4-color • Electa Milano 2012 (Source: Serge Lutens, pic duftarchiv.de)

Cartier L'Heure Vertueuse: new fragrance

Mathilde Laurent, head perfumer at Cartier since 2006, introduces L'Heure Vertueuse (the virtuous hour), another installment in Les Heures de Parfum collection for connoisseurs issued by the acclaimed jewelry house in tall architectural bottles with latin numbers designed like a somber clock. For this one, representing three o'clock in the morning,  "it is time to walk in a magical garden, to breathe the enchanting fragrances of miraculous plants. A unique moment, an aromatic caress of fresh, gentle green notes."

Mathilde further specifies that the new Heure III, L'Heure Verteuse evokes ‘toutes les herbes, aromatiques, sauvages, médicinales, même la lavande, même l’absinthe’ (every herb, aromatic, wild or medicinal, lavender as much as absinth) like a Middle Age herbarium. This green and aromatic fragrance recalls compositions of old which became a symbol of a simple and natural life, like for instance Le Jardin de Mon Curé by Guerlain -or rather her own creation for Guerlain inspired by the garden of her beloved grand-father who died at 101, Herba Fresca.

And yet, Laurent's aim is to present contemporary fragrances, as she reveals her goal: "Comprendre [son] époque, pour proposer des effluves modernes et beaux qui apportent du plaisir." (Understand one's era, so as to present modern and beautiful scents that bring pleasure). In fact L'Heure Vertueuse III draws its inspiration from Corsica and maquis.

 L'Heure Vertueuse III by Cartier contains notes of absinth, rosemary, mastic (lentisque), thyme, verbena and lavender to soothe body and spirit. Available as eau de toilette, 75ml exclusively at Cartier boutiques.
Official Cartier site here.

 [quotes source]

Friday, December 7, 2012

Fake vs.Real: Visual Perfume Tutorials for Safe Purchases

Anyone who has ever bought perfumes via Ebay (or on the street as opposed to from a certified store) knows how disappointing is the experience of getting a dud, a counterfeit perfume that looks like the real thing for the most part, but doesn't really deliver like the real thing. I have already devised a very popular how-to guide on purchasing fragrance safely online, but usually the visual evidence is ever so much helpful.  It has since come to my attention that several guys have actually created and uploaded Youtube tutorials on how to spot the fake cologne with side-by-side comparisons between the real and the fake. They often note how the seller of the counterfeits isn't some mass-store in China or Hong Kong and how the feeback might be rather alarmingly high sometimes! (Estimates speak of 1 in 10 perfumes sold being fake!)
For reference purposes and to put these helpful guides under one roof, so to speak, I am including the links to the videos here.
via pinterest

 As you can see by watching them, fakes come in "similar" (but not 100%) boxes and presentations and they always involve popular fragrances from the mainstream circuit; it just wouldn't make financially sense to copy a limited edition or an obscure niche fragrance. With that in mind, direct your purchases wisely.

Armani Aqua di Gio: fake vs. real

Burberry London men: fake vs. real 

Chanel Allure Homme Sport: fake vs. real

Chanel Blue: fake vs. real

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre (and other Chanels): fake vs. real 

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle: fake vs. real

Chanel ~ tips on spotting fake/counterfeit Chanel fragrance

Creed Silver Mountain Water: fake vs. real

Diesel Only the Brave: fake vs. real

Dior Homme Intense: fake vs. real

Dior Mightnight Poison: fake vs. real

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue homme: fake vs. real

Gaultier Le Male: fake vs. real

Gucci Rush: fake vs real

Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy: fake vs. real 

Paco Rabanne One Million: fake vs. real



Related reading on Perfume Shrine: What can I do to protect myself from fake perfumes and scams? 

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Divine L'Homme Infini: fragrance review

"A gentleman is simply a patient wolf."
~Lana Turner

William Thackeray, who knew a thing or two about snobs, wrote in Vanity Fair: "Which of us can point out many [gentlemen] in his circle – men whose aims are generous, whose truth is constant, and not only constant in its kind, but elevated in its degree; whose want of meanness makes them simple; who can look the world squarely in the face with an equal manly sympathy for the great and the small?"

L'Homme Infini deeply appeals to my own ideal of nobility, in the sense of an ideal human being; not lineage, but the couth ways, effortless elegance and received wisdom that should go with it. From its suave green-citrusy vetiver core with sweet, cozy, nutty undertones, to its piquant smoky pepperiness, the fragrance reads like an paean to masculinity; reassuring and dependable, a shoulder to lean on in hardship and a handsome cheek to caress when things go awry and a wistful tear is forming.

Caspar David Friedrich. Abbey in the Oak Forest, 1810

Yvon Mouchel, founder of Parfums Divine, has employed one of the young mavericks emerging in this medium, Yann Vasnier (a Givaudan perfumer working among others for Arquiste, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Comme des Garcons and Parfums DelRae). Vasnier has a history of creating outstanding men’s scents for Divine (L'homme de Coeur, from 2002, for one), and L’homme infini, his latest creation for the line, a nutty-smoky vetiver woody scent, manages to entice and deliver both in terms of intellectual artistic integrity and of pleasing the senses. With L’Homme Infini, Divine expresses the idea that man has an infinite horizon of life before him.

No claims to seismic originality, but high praise for the deft of execution for this one.

On skin (male as well as female) L'Homme Infini wears very much like a beloved piece of clothing you want to wear to tatters, the gorgeous patina of effervescent skies, tall silvery trees, their branches like peaks of gothic churches reaching for the skies, for the divine, geosmin and human warmth trailing on fabric; craggy stones and flint, coarsely grated spices and the spraying droplets bursting out of orange rind, and woods, woods, woods...echoing in the distance.
The promise of mysteries yet to be discovered, the adventure only now beginning.

Divine L’homme Infini notes: Coriander leaf and grain, elemi, black pepper, oak, cedar, agar wood, vetiver, amber, benzoin

Available from November 2012 at the e-boutique, all Divine boutiques in France and at Luckyscent, Liberty UK, The Perfume Shoppe, Oswald Parfumerie and AusLiebeDuft. Check the brand's website for more information: http://www.divine.fr

In the interests of disclosure I was sent sample vials by the company

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Hermes Jour d'Hermes: new fragrance

"From dawn until dusk, a luminous and sensual floral that flourishes." The new feminine floral fragrance by Hermes is composed by in-house perfumer Jean Claude Ellena and is set to be widely released in February 2013 (the 15th) for the upcoming spring season. Hermès boutiques already stock it as a temporary exclusive.
You can refer to our detailed fragrance review of Jour d'Hermes on this link.

pic via sabinedewitte.nl
Jour d'Hermès is available as Eau de parfum natural spray 50 ml/£67.00 at the official Hermes site as well as bigger 85ml and 125ml bottles. Click to the official Hermes e-boutique link here

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