Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Kenzo Flower, Flower Le Parfum, Flower Essentielle, Flower Oriental, Flower Tag & Limited Editions: Comparing Different Fragrance Versions (with pics)

Another article on the many different permutations of a popular and confusing fragrance: Kenzo Flower and its many concentrations, different editions and limited editions, dissected following the tradition on Perfume Shrine to guide you through the variety. [If you want to see more articles of this type, check the bottom of this post].


Flower by Kenzo is the original release from 2000, created by Alberto Morillas. The bottle depicts a poppy inside the cap of the bottle in various degrees of wilting according to the size of the bottle. The bottle is white with a red poppy painted on a stem.


Kenzo Flower Le Parfum is a "parfum"-like concentration of the original Kenzo Flower, issued in 2003, with boosted vanillic and powdery notes however which give it a different enough character. Three editions according to size with different names were issued: Satin Spray (75ml), Natural Spray (50ml) and Just a Drop (15ml). Kenzo Flower Le Parfum highlights the notes of opoponax resin, white musk, vanilla, almond and Bulgarian rose. The perfume is encased in a shiny red metal bottle and in a red box, again with the familiar poppy painted down the side of the box.

Flower by Kenzo La Cologne is the latest concentration in the "original" fragrance of Kenzo Flower, from 2010 and is presented in a homogenous style of bottle: again white box with red poppy, but the bottle is cylindrical with a metal cap that doesn't hide any flower inside and the box is similarly rounded to hold it. The piquant start of bitter orange (bigaradier) keeps it fresh, with a green-like note, and less powdery overall.


Kenzo Flower Oriental is a rather different incarnation from 2005: a patchouli-amber oriental fragrance in a bottle with a black poppy instead of red inside the cap and a subtle red script down the side of the bottle. The fragrance is distinctly different from the woody powdery of the original and should not be confused with it or Le Parfum. The addition of dense, smoky incense and pepper create a distinctly "orientalized" fragrance. The bottle is white with a black poppy painted on instead of red.

Kenzo Flower Essentielle from 2009 is composed of Damascus rose absolute and jasmine absolute, with the background notes of vanilla absolute, incense and three sorts of musk. The bottles shaped like its antecedents, with the poppy tucked inside the cap, are leaner this time and accentuate their graceful arc with a long body and a pronounced cap. The box is the same as the original release, so care should be taken to differentiate with the "essentielle" mention.



Kenzo Flower Tag is a fruity floral with a quite departed role in the line-up: the citrusy fruity touches are perceptible first as a more youthful approach to the classic woody-powdery violet of the original. Two editions are available: Eau de Toilette (2011) and Eau de Parfum (spring 2012), the latter adding more gourmand/foody nuances in the background with praline, patchouli and vanilla.
The bottle in both cases is red glass with black graffiti lettering on it down the side, while the box is also red with black "Tag" in bold lettering.

Several limited editions/flankers of Kenzo Flower (retaining the original composition smell-wise in the majority of cases, noted below if otherwise) have been issued through the years; the most remarkable optically is the 2006 Edition d'Artistes on which three acclaimed illustrators create an individual packaging on box and bottle (as shown on above picture):

Kenzo Flower Limited Edition 2004 (white box with white bottle, with tiny lettering delineating the outline of a poppy)
Kenzo Flower Edition d'Artistes (2006)
Kenzo Flower Summer Edition 2006
Kenzo Flower Summer Edition 2008
Kenzo Flower Summer Edition 2011
Kenzo Flower Winter Flowers (autumn 2008, a slight recalibration on boosting the white floral component, with an open flower in deep pink and peach lines on both box and bottle)
Kenzo Flower Spring Fragrance (spring 2009)

pics sourced via Google for educational purposes only

Related reading on the Perfume Shrine:
You can check PerfumeShrine's previous entries on the different flankers/perfume editions of Dior Poisons, the many flankers/limited editions of Dior best-seller J'Adore, the variousreformulations/repackaging of Miss Dior Cheriethe super confusing group of fragrance editions by Rodriguez Narciso For Her with their differences highlighted, the Etro Via Verri original and reformulated editions, the Shiseido Zen perfume editions and Hermes Merveilles perfume range different editions.

Monday, September 3, 2012

Bottling a Glass-Blower's Sweat

"The glass-blower's sweat and work is something that tourists appreciate when they come here [Rejmyre Art LAB in eastern Sweden] and look. So for me there isn't such a huge difference in selling the glass-blower's sweat and the finished glass," says Daniel Peltz, a conceptual artist from New York who is working in Sweden, to TheLocal.se.

via www.poweredupsystems.com

After an artist's feces bottled for your delectation in a "fragrant" dilution and the simulated scent of a woman's orgasmic ecstasy (by a top perfumer no less), the next project involves real sweat. Tamer, you'd say. Apparently not that original though! 
There's already a product sold (and another one) that mimics at least the look of sweat beads. Not to mention that we sometimes do drink a sorta diluted "fake-sweat" drink when engaging in sports. 

Sunday, September 2, 2012

Oscar de la Renta Essential Luxuries: new fragrance line

Do you recall Oscar by Oscar de la Renta? The classic from the 1970s has lost some of its fans over the years (no less due to a reformulation that attenuated its incredible sillage), but with last year's lovely Esprit d'Oscar and a new collection of six luxurious fragrances, the St.Dominican born designer hopes to gain new ones, according to reportage on WWD.
 The new "niche"collection, Essential Luxuries, comprises 6 fragrances available in uniform bottles with a cap vaguely reminiscent of the curvy style of his classic Oscar allied to personal memories and stories, "inspired by the life and loves of Oscar de la Renta".
NOTES & INSPIRATION FOR OSCAR DE LA RENTA ESSENTIAL LUXURIES FRAGRANCES

Sargasso, reminiscent of De La Renta's home lapped by the waves of the Sargasso Sea, has fragrant notes of salty air, fresh citrus, seaweed and refreshing cucumber.
Santo Domingo, where the designer was born, has sweet and spicy notes of coffee and tobacco leaves tinged with spicy mandarin, coriander, and patchouli notes.
Oriental Lace, meant to reflect the colorful and luminous collections of the fashion designer, has notes of hoya carnosa flower, as well as honey, bitter almond, and dark cacao. 
Coralina, inspired by the semi-precious stone from his birthplace, is a mimosa, violet, and orris eau.
Mi Corazon, dedicated to his beloved daughter Eliza and sharing a precious memory with her, comprises notes of ylang-ylang petals mingled with touches of exotic peach.
Granada, inspired by a trip in Spain, has notes of jasmine, rose and orange blossom, reflecting the lushness of the gardens of the city.

All fragrances are available at 3.4oz/100ml at 150$ exclusively at Saks 5th Avenue, Oscar de la Renta boutiques and oscardelarenta.com

Friday, August 31, 2012

What I Used This Summer: Sensuous Products & Yummy Discoveries

We're on the last day of summer, calendar-wise, and Labor Day weekend is upon us so my mind was cast to what happened in the previous months.  It was a summer filled with everything: much needed languor, some necessary stress, moving around a bit, lots of projects, learning new things such as macramé, refreshing my Italian and hot, hot, hot temperatures soaring for days on end (those of you in the US will sympathize and those of you in Western Europe will anathematize). That last bit naturally posed its own little limitations.

Thinking of what made the cut during these past few months, I came up with products, scents, foodstuff and sensuous little touches which brightened the long days and soothed the hot nights. Here's my personal list. Feel free to share your own in the comments!

via livia-momentsoflife.blogspot.com


Dr.Bronner's Peppermint Castile Soap
My reader Rosarita recommended this as a relief from the heat when I was complaining I was too hot to even consider continuing breathing (it felt that way) and asked for recs. Two words: it works! Tingling and cooling.

Guerlain Lys Soleia
The best feminine release from Guerlain by Wasser so far. A tropical fantasy of lily and sand dunes warmed by the sun.

Selin Limon Kolonyasi (traditional Turkish cologne)
Because there's something into old traditions that stands the test of time. The most refreshing touch after any activity, kept in the fridge for maximum effect.

Calone isn't totally incongruent with the sea...
Numerous times while swimming in the sea I noticed the faint whiff of watermelon in the distance (replicated by the fragrance industry in the synth Calone which defined the "marine" scents of the 1990s). At first I thought it was vacationers bringing their typical feta and watermelon treat in tupperware on ice-blocks for midday snacking. Then it dawned on me: the sea water does have a watermelon reminiscent component, or rather the fruit has a sea-like nuance (which explains its perfect pairing with the salty cheese). Amazing; it made for a renewed interest in seeing the nuts & bolts of marine perfumery, a very complex segment of the industry.

via hugo.com


Burberry Beauty Sheer Summer Glow
Most bronzers are either too dark or too orange-peach for my coolish skin (which naturally reddens in the sun and then attains a golden tint which fades quickly unless upkept). This limited edition collection of 4 shades in British-cool colors is perfect for managing the dosage for an optimum natural effect. Add mascara and a lip balm you're set for the day.

Ramon Monegal Mon Cuir
Best perfume discovery of the year so far. Dry and sophisticated powdery leather fragrance. To die for; there are no other words. Review coming up!

Ayala Moriel Etrog Oy de Cologne
Etrog is Hebrew for citron and citron is a delightful thing that remains inexplicably under the radar in most commercial perfumery. Light, tangy with pommelo, natural, with an aromatic, oleaginous background, Etrog Oy de Cologne is a scent to see you through hot summery noons and to brighten darker autumn dawns. Review coming up!

collage via pojkfroken.blogspot.com
Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche
Total abscence of flowers and fruits. A scent of solid white rock like a volcanic island emerging from the sea. Perennial summer fav. It feels as if Jean Claude Ellena conceived it on the island of Milos.

Bergamot spoon sweet on classic cheesecake
An unusual twist to the classic recipe that provide welcome tanginess and bittersweet nuances.

La Via del Profumo Tawaf
Hypnotic and mystical jasmine like never before, allied to Arabian tradition resins. Review coming up!

Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan mixed with simple white musk (Lutens's own Clair de Musc isn't a bad choice for this, but you can experiment with any clean musk really, a hint of white flowers in the mix is best)
An experiment (at a ratio of 1:3) that proved sometimes an intense, deep amber can fit even a heatwave. I know people use this oriental in the summer thanks to its herbal, aromatic top note which cuts the sweetness, but trust me, we were talking 105F/40C here...no laughing matter.

Jasmine Gin Fizz iced tea
Using jasmine-infused tea instead of soda in the classic recipe makes this super-easy and very cooling.

Roger & Gallet Vetyver Eau de Cologne
Delectable vetiver scent; light, smokey, with a hint of tobacco and hay underneath the citrus top. I'm cursing the day they discontinued this.

Mirto Lavender cologne
Greek pharmacy stand-by cologne that is sublime. Review coming up!

via rcakewalk.blogspot.com

Sour Cherry Jelly
Just use any red-fruit jelly mix and substitute water with fresh sour cherry juice. The result is more than the sum of its parts and garners compliments from everyone tasting it.

Etro Royal Pavillon
A tender and musky floral combination of jasmine, mimosa and ylang ylang with a mossy segment from 1989.

Ambre Solaire Golden Protection with Monoi SPF 30
Ambre Solaire is a European golden standard in that tropical floral scent we associate with South of France and Capri beaches. This year's edition is even more seductive, infused with a subtle monoi scent that just screams for sensuous application even when not on the beach.

Annick Goutal Musc Nomade
When I wanted to simulate "no perfume" skin, yet sought that indefinable aura that metallic vegetal musks only can render on the wearer. Tripy!




Farewelling summer with this song clip: "Summer rendez-vous upon your body" by Greek group Δυτικές Συνοικίες (i.e.Western Neighborhoods)
"the whole island a pebble by your feet,
the whole wide earth your embrace".

What did you use this summer? What did you discover?

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Fragrance For the Day

If you're the type to co-ordinate your fragrance to the weather (and the mood it produces as a result) you might get a kick out of the new Fragrance Forecast feature of Lifestyle Mirror which matches scents to the weather forecast for New York City.



Curated by yours truly, this is today's prediction, while the week is full of participations by eminent colleagues such as Patty White of Perfume Posse, Mindy Yang of Min New York or Barney Bishop of Fragrant Moments.
Hope you have a lovely day wherever you are!

pic via pinterest

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