Breaking the BONDs

I was fully prepared to write a long post about the latest business practices of Bond No.9 (i.e.opposing the selling of decants of their fragrances through the reliable services of The Perfume Court) after a long hiatus on the brand's news due to the somewhat non-diplomatic (for lack of a harsher word) handling of internet fragrance-camaraderie-politics on the whole (see their handling of the name "Peace"). But thankfully State of the [Car]nation beat me to the punchline with his great post BONDage and Dominance, which is highly recommended reading!

For what is worth, I have given every benefit of a doubt to businesses such as this one in the past, maintaining that they are within their rights to oppose all sales that might pose a threat to the integrity of their wares even inadvertedly ~and if we're all maintaining that perfumery is an art, then how can reselling it piece by piece not lessen that, even if it suits our pocketbook? Same is true for any perfume company (see the ceasing of decant selling on Ebay) and I can see their point. Yet somehow it's the MANNER something is handled that makes all the difference in the world: "Cease and desist" via Twitter messaging somehow appears like a calculated risk that a three-women-operated internet business (all decent ladies as far as I know) would rather drop the line off their stock instead of having to hire a costly attorney and take the case to court for years to come. So not cool!
Maybe we should all become fans of this cinematic reference "Piss on your peace..." instead? What do you think?



Brilliant (and highly educational) dialogue courtesy of the classic film The Lion in Winter with Peter O'Toole as Henry II of England and Timothy Dalton as King Phillip II of France (and Anthony Hopkins as Richard the Lionheart).

Jean Louis Dumas of Hermes: 1938-2010

Jean-Louis Dumas, more well-known as "tête d'Hermès" for 28 years (1978-2006) and fifth-generation descendant of the historic family running the house (son of one of the four daughters of Emile Hermès), has died last Saturday, 1st of May after a long battle with disease.



Instrumental to the continued prestige and the awakened interest in the house, he believed:

"My role is to embelish the garden with creative talent and exceptional know-how [...] Hermès is chic: this state of grace in which one simply knows how to carry a bag, a dress, or a coat."

Rest in peace, Jean-Louis...

Photo of Jean Louis Dumas via Philippe-Burlet

Guerlain Arsene Lupin, Nuit d'Amour, Idylle Duet: new fragrances

What do an amorous night, an idyllic duet and "le gentilhomme cambrioleur" of French literature, Arsène Lupin, have in common? They're all purported to be future releases by Guerlain! Now that I caught your attention, let's take things one by one.

Arsène Lupin has been tied to a leather masculine fragrance created by Thierry Wasser and Jean Paul Guerlain, due to launch in November 2010. {It has been officially confirmed that it is a Jean Paul Guerlain creation alone} It's purported to be an aromatic violet cuir (leather) with hints of Jolie Madame threw in and tentative resemblances to a reworking of the theme of Coriolan and Chamade pour Homme but with a drier leather base (according to Basenotes and mr.Guerlain). Another member on the same forum mentions trying the scent and reports: "[Guerlain's Arsène Lupin] does has some similarities with the other Guerlain masculines - i.e. Coriolan and Chamade pour homme. I could describe it as green-gray aromatic cologne with some flowers (not much) and dry mossy-leathery sillage.
It resembles vintage Jolie Madame by Balmain (violet+leather) and the new Le Temps d`une Fête by Parfums de Nicolai (narcissus or hyacinth) made with more dry feeling. It definitely has green bitter galbanum with bergamot, and some Provençal herbs like rosemary, lavender. Camphor-cooling feeling also detected. Heart is spicy-woody - wormwood, nutmeg and maybe pepper + coriander. Sillage is dry woody - moss, sandalwood, vetiver, immortelle (?) and leather". The longevity was also deemed good, with the intriguing addition that sales assistants report there would be two versions: a younger "dandy" version and a more mature version. (Just how groovy and cunning is that??)

ETA: The newest info we have tells us these will comprise an "Arsène Lupin collection by Guerlain" in which one will be called Arsène Lupin Le Dandy and the other Arsène Lupin Le Voyou (the latter meaning Lout). The double name is meant to reflect the two faces of Janus which the fictional hero exhibits. The bottles are encased in a wooden panel and follow a modern aesthetic (a more masculine take than the one for the Elixir Charnels by the same house), somewhat in contrast with the retro name, whereas the juice is lilac for Le Dandy and straw-golden for Le Voyou as visible on the pics.

*Notes for Arsène Lupin Le Dandy: bergamot, bigarade, pink peppercorn, cardamom, violet, sandalwood, patchouli, cistus, olibanum.

*Notes for Arsène Lupin Le Voyou: bigarade, aromatic herbs, mugwort, coriander, pepper, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, rose, white musks.



But what's in a name? The literary character Arsène Lupin began his fictional life in 1905 (under "Lopin", until a namesake politician protested), smack-right into La Belle Epoque; an enigmatic figure in black-tie respendid with white gloves, a cape and a monocle, relieving the haute-bourgeoisie from their money, which seems like the perfect analogy for the clients of Guerlain! The comings and goings of Lupin in horse-carriages and the suaveness of the character evoked saddlery according to Jean Paul Guerlain. Are they pulling an Hermès on us? Or are we to expect a fragrance by the name of Rocambole next? :-)

It's interesting to note that lupin is also a flower, grown in northern climates and known for its antioxidant properties. This might have pointed to the name being only "lupin" and thus tied to skincare instead of fragrancing. So, I decided to research a bit deeper: It seems that the trademark Arsène Lupin is still held by Leblanc Florence, 20 rue Edouard Nortier,92200 NEUILLY-SUR-SEINE and it's applicable to several trademark categories. Among them, yes, perfume too! According to Perfume Intelligence there are already two fragrances named after the gentleman thief, Arsène Lupin pour femme and Arsène Lupin pour homme developped by Intercosma as Eaux de Toilette. However, according to my info it seems that there has been a legal "transmission partielle de propriété" to Guerlain by the original beneficiary, which confirms that the name is official beyond any doubt!


The new feminines by Guerlain will be somewhat different. On the one hand there is the "new" Les Parisiennes for women called Nuit d'Amour, in fact an earlier creation by Jean Paul Guerlain in 2006 which followed the 2005 launch of Plus Que Jamais, and which had previously circulated as a limited edition of only 500 bottles conceived as tribute to Gustav Klimt. According to the official LVMH info: "Jean-Paul Guerlain has always been fascinated by Gustav Klimt’s painting "Lady with Hat and Feather Boa". Gracious and proud, yet fragile, elegant and mysterious, this woman intrigues him. Delicate but intense, Nuit d’Amour is a tribute to the stirrings aroused by meeting a strange woman with an indefinable charm.
Nuit d’Amour is a floral, powdery, woody fragrance, its top notes mingling the freshness of litchi with the gentle tingle of pink peppercorns. A hint of aldehydes, wedded with a bouquet of feminine, graceful Provence rose and subtle, powdery iris, translates the emotions tinting the young woman’s cheeks. Sandalwood prolongs the base note with its warm, sensuous tones, just as the dark feather boa envelopes her shoulders and throat..."
Nuit d'Amour now joins the more "stable" stable of Les Parisiennes (bee bottles exclusive to Guerlain boutiques) as a re-issue, possibly to make up for some of the discontinuations that happened in the line. Please note that the photo depicted here is of the previous limited edition with the Belle Epoque jet-bead "necklace"; the new will be the standard "bee" bottle of Les Parisiennes.

On the other hand a new version of Idylle is already in the cards, aimed at mainstream release and developed by Thierry Wasser, the nose behind the original as well: Idylle Duet Rose-Patchouli is already in the works, an Eau de Parfum version that highlights the two notes. Please find the visual representation included on your right.

It looks like we'll be having lots of material to discuss coming from Guerlain in the next months!
For our French-speaking readers, please watch this interesting video:

Jean-Paul Guerlain testing herbs and spices at the market, talking about modern perfumery ("lesivière!") citing Baudelaire, meeting in the lab with Thierry Wasser (whom he considers a disciple and an accomplice) and his esprit collectioneur des femmes (ah!)!click the link below:

Le surdoué du parfum

Sincere thanks to Moon Fish for their reportage on Basenotes.
Illustration of Arsene Lupin via Werner Maresta. Film stills from the 2004 film Arsène Lupin starring Romain Duris, Kristin Scott-Thomas Pascal Gregorry and Eva Green

Lubin Bluff, Figaro, Inedite, Itasca: new fragrances

Perfumers Lucien Ferrero and Thomas Fontaine worked around original olfactory themes of "Vetiver" and "L'Eau Neuve" by Lubin and produced two versions of each: Bluff and Itasca are inspired by Lubin's Vetiver , while Figaro and Inedite are inspired by L'Eau Neuve. The bottles reprise the design of the originals with stylised colour schemes and relief.

Lubin Bluff

A racy perfume, deceiving by its appearances : topped with lime, bergamot and combining nutmeg and cinnamon, Bluff is first fresh spicy and woody. Then it blossoms into a sensual, almost greedy, heart of clary sage, iris and cola nuts.
Its finally lands on a background of cedar, patchouli sandalwood and vanilla.
Top notes: Lime, Bergamot, Nutmeg, Cinnamon.
Heart note: Sage, Iris, Coconut Cola, Nectarine
Base Notes: Vetiver, Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood

Lubin Figaro

Bold and seductive like Beaumarchais, Figaro take as its inspiration liberties with the conventions. Its Vetiver and fig heart notes is embellished with apple, plum and clover. The coriander leaves gives the green effect and ocean pine provides a marine aromatic facet . The woody wake finally combines amber, vetiver, sandalwood, tonka bean and balsam of Styrax.
Top Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Pine
Heart Notes: fig, apple, plum, clover
Base notes: Vetiver, Styrax, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean

Inédite by Lubin

First, a rosewater, innocent and fresh as a mandarin of Sicily, Inédite is spicy and sweet, with a floral wake of heliotrope, lilac, rose and nectarine. Soon the vanilla, iris and patchouli reveals the spices. Sensual Circassian, rubbed with cinnamon, pepper and coriander, cedar and musk, make it even more voluptuous.
Top Notes: mandarin, bergamot, pepper and pink peppercorns.
Heart Notes: Coriander, Lilac, Rose
Base Notes: Vanilla, Iris, Patchouli, White Musk

Lubin Itasca

The Forest of America. The Mississippi River rises in Lake Itasca, in the heart of Minnesota. Itasca by Lubin evokes America's deep forests, those of Algonquin Indians and pioneers. The Minnesota red pine accompanies them on a background of amber, incense, Java vetiver and Texas cedar . First refreshed by juniper berries, then it develops a spicy harmony of wood combined with cloves and nutmeg.
Top notes: Neroli, Mandarin, Juniper Berries
Heart note: Clove, Sage, Nutmeg, Geranium Leaves
Base Note: Red Pine, Vetiver, Amber.

The new Lubin fragrances come in Eau de Parfum 75ml spray bottles for 85 euros each.

M.J.Blige My Life: new fragrance

The formidable (and talented) M.J Blige is coming out with her own celebrity scent soon, called My Life in co-operation with Carol's Daughter, to whom Blige is an investor in the first place, thus marking a break with usual business practices. The brand does an estimated $30 million-plus in retail sales, with My Life expected to add a significant amount to that annual tally. “The whole notion of ‘if you can’t smell it, you can’t sell it’ wasn’t on my radar. “Everyone can choose how they want to sell. We chose to capture Mary J. Blige’s life and tell it to 93 million people,” said Stoute.

“I wanted my fragrance to be something special for my female fans,” said Blige of her new fragrance named for her landmark* 1994 recording of the same name. (according to WWD)
*Mary J.Blige admits being a victim of abuse winding into depression and contemplating suicide at some point in her life.

The scent was developed by Firmenich, with the help of "Aunt Pam". Who is Aunt Pam? Pamela Baxter, president and chief executive officer of LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics North America, married to Blige’s husband and manager, Kendu Isaacs's uncle!
“I’ve never done it, but it was so much fun because I have a keen sense of smell. I knew exactly what I wanted and would ask for an incense smell, a musk smell, a wood smell. I also wanted florals, but edgy florals." Apparently she didn't like too much wood, so that got deducted. The official info appearing on WWD really wants to make it sound like M.J Blige really got herself involved (and I guess she did smell and approve/disapprove the 6 "mods" before finalisation) which was to be expected.
What's the scent like? The opening relies on gardenia petals, Bartlett pear and white freesia; the heart expands into lush florals such as tuberose, blooming jasmine, gold lily and apricot flower, and the base encompasses cashmere woods {i.e. aromachemical Cashmeran}, praline, sesame and incense. Sounds totally wrong which might actually prove to be totally good; we'll see!
It will retail for $46 for 1.7 oz. and will be sold with a clutch purse.
The launch will of My Life by M.J.Blige will be solely on HSN during six shows on July 31, thus breaking any tradition of prestige fragrance retailing. "The scent will be sampled at the Essence Music Festival the first week in July. Carol’s Daughter, which has had a pop-up store at the festival for the last few years, will be taking pre-orders for the scent at the festival, and Blige —who will perform July 4 — will sign autographs at the Carol’s Daughter booth".

Photo of M.J.Blige with bottle of My Life by Anthony Mandler, via WWD