Thursday, September 10, 2009

Rykiel becomes a blogger!

The Rykiel house has tittilated our fantasies with their erotic shop within their flagship boutique, has smothered our senses with their wonderful perfumes and has established their name as one of the chicest in all of Paris and the fashion runway for decades now. But it seems that technology is not escaping Sonia and Natalie Rykiel who are on the cutting edge:
Yes, they caught the blogging germ (official blogs seem to be big right now) and from 14th September (this coming Monday, that is!) you can read all about their creative process, their interests and their little confidences at http://www.rykielles.com/. Shopping, littérature, photo, music., video exclusivities, archive fashion shoots.. the posh Parisian quartier de Saint Germain des Prés takes its own digital life under the direction of Natalie Rykiel who will be blogging with nom de guerre "Dita du Flore". And once a week the feature "Sonia's Choice" by Sonia Rykiel herself. Blogger Garance Doré has realised a photo exclusive which you can discover in its entirety on http://www.rykielles.com/ this coming 14th September.
I hypothesize it will be in French, but perhaps there will be a translation option available for those of you who don't speak French. Or, you can always begin learning the French language with some online classes.

Source Jennifer Neyt/Vogue.fr. Pic of Natalie Rykiel via theglamtvespagna.es

Profumi di Pantelleria Approdo: new fragrance

Profumi di Pantelleria, a niche Italian line named after the small island in the straight of Sicily and a place of exile in Roman times, had first caught my attention with Jailia; a fragrance that managed to make a concept that I thought was 'tired' (Angel), very simpatico to my sensibilities and inject it with a playful vibe which was trully charming.
Their newest upcoming release, Approdo (the word signifies landfall) presents the mergence of sea and land producing a fragrance of vigor and optimism that is aimed at both sexes. The fragrance is promising to give a smell of saltiness, the characteristic tone of the sea breeze with a "mineral, almost metallic hint". The rest of the composition is poised on woods, aromatic herbs, spices and local flowers.

The notes for Profumi di Panteleria Approdo are:
Top Note
Tangerine, Basil, Violet Green, Note of Mineral
Middle Note
Magnolia, White Pepper, Black Pepper
Base Note
Maté (tea), Patchouli, Cedar Wood, Vetiver

The story which accompanies the newest launch is quite lyrical: "In the distance, a white triangle emerges from the surface of the sea. It seems to rise and approach, until you glimpse the hull of a sailing yacht siding across the water with elegant, harmonious movements.A little later, it draws close to the quay; once the mooring operations have been completed, a group of smiling people disembarks: the pleasure they feel about having shared an enjoyable, personally enriching experience is immediately palpable. Approdo tells the wonderful emotions that are the gift of a direct relationship with the sea. The pleasure of setting foot back on the land blends with the sweet regret at leaving behind the lived experience".
It only remains to be seen what it translates to on the skin...
The Profumi di Pantelleria fragrances retail at around 80 euros a pop.

info via press release

Upcoming niche releases: unveiled at Florence Fragranze No.7

The Florence exhibition Fragranza No.7 (more info clicking the link) will be the place of unveiling of several new niche fragrances from renowned brands, whetting our appetite from the months to come when they will launch officially for our delectation. In the meantime we're bringing you a roundup of those super-new releases so you can take notes for later on.

First L.T.Piver, an historic house and one of the oldest ones, is renovating their packaging for the entire line and issuing Cedre, Cuir, Epices, Vetiver, 4 masculine fragrances centered on cedar, leather, spices and vetiver respectively.

Memo is much more modern, but they're also taking the chance to introduce Moon Safari, a fragrance composed by Clara Molloy (on the right) and encompassing notes of mandarin, verbena, leather, vetiver and tonka beans. The fragrance will be encased in the familiar rectangular bottles with dots and the juice is a golden yellow.

Humiecki & Graef, another concept-line, after Skarb which rippled the pond with their advertorial, is issuing a new fragrance called Clemency (still under wraps, news on that to be added when available).


A new niche house of Italian origin is making their grand debut in Florence: Laboratorio Olfattivo is launching 4 new Eaux de Parfum named Alkemi, Cozumel, Daimiris, and Alambar created by perfumers Marie Duchene, Pierre Guillaume (of Parfumerie Generale fame) and Enrico Buccella. The latter has been also busy producing two fragrances for niche Italian brand Sigilli: Asprosa (citrusy rose) and Ferfaen (aromatic tobacco with mint and verbena) .

All in all an impressive forthcoming of new smells for us in the coming months!


Pics via derbyprints.com, aufeminin.com, thedieline.com. Some info via extrait.it

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Natori Eau de Parfum by Josie Natori: fragrance review

There are few things more fundamental to a woman's confidence than the "just right" underwear and by that I mean proper fitting, excellent craftmanship and luxurious materials. It doesn't matter whether the clothes on top are fashion-conscious, whimsically bohemian or practical athletic-inspired gear, you only need to slip once into decent, quality underwear to never go back. In an exhibition of self-appreciation even in the most frugal of times, I prefer to invest in Aubade, Andres Sarda and Eres instead of other ~more evident~ outer garments, justifying the expense with the knowledge they put me in a good mood first thing in the morning.


The sensuality evoked by quality lingerie is not illogically compared to the feeling instigated by that category of fragrances which we call "snuggly" or "cashmere sweater" scents (like Bois des Iles, Barbara Bui Le Parfum and Rykiel Woman). Industriously ~and indeed fittingly~ lingerie designers have not been idle: From Barbara Bui to Fifi Chachnil all the way to the more bubble-gum sporting Victoria's Secret, major brands have expanded into smells to accompany their smalls.
So did Josie Natori (née Josefina Almeda Cruzhad in the Philippines), who has been creating lingerie, swimwear and women's fashions since 1977, creating a micrography of an empire that spans several upscale department stores in the US and at least 15 countries internationally.

The new release, Natori by Natori, is a floriental that although not innovative, or exceptional in any way, will win lots of people who will snuggle its ambery floral bouquet and purple-black bottle with a pleasure akin to putting on their favourite heavy-silk pajamas. Natori (the Japanese word for "highest artform" and a feminine name as well) has just launched, a fitting foil for the first evenings of autumn weaving their way through the raised blinds, creeping up on us unsuspecting with their crisp step.

The fragrance was created by perfumer Caroline Sabas of Givaudan. If Sabas's oeuvre (Fresh Cannabis Santal, JLo Miami Glow, Badgley Mischka Couture, Charles Jourdan Le Parfum) can be summed up it would transpire she goes for smooth compositions of modernised orientalia, like tapestries' motifs seen in densely-pixeled digital form.
In Natori this typical trait is immediately evident in a sparkling floriental that smells the way a devoré velvet would: smooth, with depth, yet surprising lightness of heft. Despite the advertorial on aldehydes, the impression is not the characteristic soapy-powdery effect of classic aldehydic fragrances, but instead what immediately fizzes off skin in a rather denser way is the plum. Its alliance with feminine flowers, out of focus, the silky musks (I hypothesize the new Cosmone being one) and the light amber notes (recalling the westernised impression of the latter middle-Eastern mix) makes it very wearable and exactly the kind of tactile scent which although you don't particularly notice all the time, you feel good wearing it.

As March from Perfume Posse wisely puts it: "Natori is the perfume equivalent of an expensive but very soft, flattering set of underthings that you’d wear as much for your own pleasure as anyone else’s." Personally I am a little disappointed at the lack of a certain "kick" at some step of the process: Natori develops lineary, with good lasting power and with a seamless progression in which one cannot discern any specific notes without tilting their head again and again and trying to catch them by force. Usually the latter is a trait of supreme technique, yet although technical merit is not lacking, I would have prefered it to exhibit the more shockingly feminine (and naughty) undercurrent of Une Fleur de Cassie by F.Malle incorporated into the standard dusky floriental bouquet. The way it is, Natori can be worn without blushing one iota, nor is it going to be especially chosen for grandes horizontales. Rather it's a go-to scent for women every day, like a boost of confidence they themselves are aware of. Nothing wrong with that, come to think of it.

The Natori flacon is a deep purplish black inspired by the lotus blossom, a flower imbued in symbolism in Eastern cultures, where poets have compared the blossom's furling leaves to female silhouettes coming out of their bath (There's something to be said about poets, flowers and women!). The cap is smooth like a river pebble. There is a small "window" on the body of the bottle, recalling the design of the inro-shaped Opium splash bottle, from which one can see the purplish shade emerge triumphant. Its purple colour recalls royal gowns but also the merging of opposites: like the primaries that conspire to create it, it possesses both cool and feisty vibrations.

Notes for Natori:
aldehydes, rose, plum, jasmine, ylang ylang, peony, musk, patchouli, amber.

Natori has just debuted as Eau de Parfum in the United States from Parlux Fragrances Inc. as a Saks exclusive (for the time being) with plans to incorporate it into a lifestyle line. Fifth Avenue Club members and Saks First participants will be invited to receive a deluxe ¼ ounce Eau de Parfum miniature in Limited Edition packaging.
The fragrance collection includes a 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Spray ($110.00) and a 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray ($80.00)

Please do not confuse the new Natori with the same-named discontinued fragrance by Avon from 1985.


Pic of Natori feather dress via amazonaws.com and of bottle via Sniffapalooza Magazine

Winner of the...

...Lily Bermuda draw is Ines. Congrats and I will be getting your samples in the mail shortly.

Thanks everyone for your participation and get ready for the next one!

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