Distant Cousins: Lily of the Valley & Lily ~part 2: Lily

Pensive garden, affectionate, fresh, and faithful,
where lilies, moon and swallow kiss.
Army on the march, child who dreams, woman in tears!

Adjectives like "astonishing" and "ravishing" may sound like hyperbole, yet it is enough for someone to have leaned once over an open, waxy petaled blossom of pure, gleamingly white and delicately flocked lilies to have stood transfixed.

Words fail one upon the sight, while the nose is mesmerised by its oleaginous, yet at the same time spicy interlay of softness, sharpness and intense femininity. Even John Ruskin in his lectures “Sesame and Lilies” designates the second one, Lilies, to the treatment of women in literature and lore. An allusion which brings an added dubious sub-layer in the common reference of lily white skin in rapper songs ~such as the hilarious “Pretty Fly (for a white guy)" ~ by the Offspring) and in street parlance!

The beauty of lily is at once as pure and as sensuous as the face of Ingrid Bergman in "Casablanca"; its strong emition of scent in late summer makes an evening spent in a garden where it blooms an exercise in aching wonder faced with nature’s magic. And most astonishing of them all, among this plush, there raises its little head a small facet of horse stable manure (Luca Turin in a playful reminiscence while reviewing a lily fragrance refers to it as salami), enough to place lily in the category of the majestically strange, much like tuberose or jasmine. There's something awe-inspiring yet vulnerably tragic in the lily, like the Dresden-doll beauty of Vivien Leigh.

Lilies belong to the Liliaceae family, from which they take their name. The genus Lilium are herbaceous flowering plants growing from bulbs, comprising about 110 species with infinite visual variety. Lily of the Valley/Muguet (Convallaria majalis) on the other hand belongs to the Ruscaceae family (genus Convallaria), making them botanically unrelated to the former blossoms. Within the lily group there are several sub-varieties and contrary to the vernacular sayings equating lily with white, not all species are so. The following varieties are amongst the most prominent and beautiful: Columbia lily ,Tiger Lily , Easter/Madonna Lily ,the Goldband lily of Japan , the Amazon lily as well as the Stargazers, a popular and colourful subdivision of the Oriental lilies and the Casa Blanca Lilies (another Oriental hybrid).
On the other hand, the well-known Calla Lily (erroneously often misspelled as Cala) is not strictly a lily, since it belongs in the family Araceae. Generally Calla Lilies do not possess the characteristic heady odour of lilies nor do they have a potent odour profile in themselves, although the species Zantedeschia odorata possesses the strong scent of freesias. Vera Wang original perfume for women claims notes of Calla lily in its bridal bouquet. In perfumery, however, the lily par excellence is usually one in the Lilium family. And in this guide we will try to list fragrances which include the different varieties of lily.

Lost in history, the beautiful flower has even some interpreters of the Bible identify the Hebrew word Shoshannah as 'lily' in Song of Songs ("As the lily among thorns, so is my love among the daughters." Song of Songs 2:2 (KJV), instead of the customary translation as rose.
The heady odour of the flower is usually rendered through headspace technology or dynamic purge-and-trap headspace analysis, which reveals the main enantimomer as R-(-)-linalool, while the alluring strangeness of lily is closely tied to high levels of p-cresol accounting for its animalic tonality. [1]
The suave and sugary scent of Madona/Easter lilies which is all the more intense as the hours draw on towards the night is evident in the classic Anais Anais by Cacharel, in the more billowed aldehydic Dolce & Gabbana pour femme (the one which is crowned with a red cap), and the suave, lightly green and tender Un Lys by Serge Lutens underscored by snuggly vanilla, painting the picture of a Werner Herzog delicate heroine. The floral sweet touch also offers an unexpected marriage of opposites in Passage d’Enfer by L’artisan Parfumeur. The scent of incense and lily mesh through the ecclesiastical tradition, overwhelming my memory with liles offered during Easter whilst frankincense is being slowly burned on charcoals around.

Tiger lilies with their wild patterns are evoked in the equally jungle-inspired print (leopard) on the cylindrical bottles of the sadly discontinued feminine By by Dolce & Gabbana. The ginger overlay of some of the varieties of the lilies makes a perfect accompaniment to the coffee and sandalwood notes of the D&G fragrance. Inpendent perfumer Yosh has no less than three scents featuring tiger lily: Wanderlust (a fresh bouquet with a whiff of incense and patchouli), Tigresse (a fruity floral encompassing figs and pomegranates) and Ginger Ciao (the creaminess of coconut compliments the sweeter aspects of lilies and ylang ylang)! Reportedly Baby Phat Fabulosity and Lucky Number 6 also feature tiger lily as a note, although I have not personally tried either. The fresh, sea-spray-like and photorealistic undertake by Edouard Fléchier for Frédéric Malle’s Lys Méditerrannée (Mediterrannean lily) is one of the most elegant lilies on the market today, injecting a subtle gingery facet on a precious musky backdrop.

White and red Casa blanca lilies are evoked in the soft, non aggressive and diaphanous treatment of Des Lys, a soliflore in the Annick Goutal line. For her denser, hypnotic Grand Amour, the majestic lily is paired to sweet honeysuckle, the oily emerald hue of hyacinth and a host of eastern promises (myrrh, vanilla, musk). The woody-ambery aroma chemical Karanal presents some lily facets, reminiscent of the treatment of lily in such scents as the glorious Donna Karan Gold which explores the waxy facets of Casablanca lilies ~especially in the rich and excellent Eau de Parfum concentration. While the alpha-, beta- and gamma- terpineol are used to render clearer lily notes.
In Pleasures Intense by Estee Lauder, the abundance of green and sweeter lilies give off a contrasting image of sharpness and sweetness, highlighted by fresher peony on one end and benzoin on the other. One of the best oriental lily renditions in a mainstream fragrance was unfortunately an all too short-lived and now regretably elusive version of Pleasures, called Garden of Pleasures Moon Lily. A limited edition from 1999 in a trio collection which highlighted facets of the original best-selling Pleasures (the other two included Peony and Lilac), it presented a soft, orientalised and subtly sweet ambience of gigantic white liliums with intense red stamens protruding provocatively.

Oriental lilies and Stargazers seductively emit their fragrant indolic headiness, close to jasmine, in other best-selling fragrances such as the kitchy White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor and the suave Lily & Spice by Penhaligon’s.
Last but not least, in order to train your nose into the subtleties of the diferent varieties, Ava Luxe has composed a trio of lily scents with different effects: the simple and greenish Lily, the traditional Madona Lily and the more orientalised Stargazer.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine:Distant Cousins part1 Lily of the Valley

[1]Rey Marsili, 2001
Painting of lilies by Amy Steward via lostcoastdailypainters blog. Pic of Vivien Leigh via Seraphicpress.com, stargazer illustration via create4u.blogspot.com

The winners of the draw...

...for the A.Tauer Une Rose Chyprée are Fernando and Ines!
Please email me using the Contact link (above, under the header) with your particulars so I can get those out to you in the mail soon!

Thanks everyone for your enthusiastic participation and stay tuned for the next one!

In the meantime for those anxious to get some Une Rose Chyprée, Luckyscent has started taking pre-orders here.

Sleep Scentsations Pillow Liners: a novel bed-scenting idea

Do you like to scent your bed? I know I do, usually spraying the sheets with a favourite fragrance. Sleep Scentsations Pillow Liners is a novel idea of instant gratification with minimum hassle: little scented liners that are placed under your pillow case to aromatize your pillow and your…dreams! The products were developed by two sisters in Texas:

“After many years as executives in the corporate world, sisters Lynne Sammons and Michelle Fitzwater often found themselves facing an extremely stressful environment. […]After spending what she swore would be her last sleepless night, Lynne and sister Michelle, along with a group of well-trusted associates, spent months researching the effects of essential oils and aromatherapy, as they’d heard that these natural alternatives served as a good method in inducing relaxation. They quickly discovered applications for aromatherapy were often quite cumbersome and costly, and did not bring out the subtle natural effect inherent in fragrance oils. Experimenting with different applications, they came upon an ideal method to enhance a great nights’ sleep; it was easy to use, could be personalized to their liking, and could be taken anywhere….thus Sleep Scentsations ™ was created”.

Or so the story goes.

Personally I would find the approach much more convincing if I hadn’t already heard of the adage of “discerning consumer who couldn’t find what they wanted, so they made their own X product” numerous times, from Donna Karan to Christy Turlington and Iman downwards. There is nothing wrong with having a good business idea, after all! Why not just say it? It even landed them a partnership with the American Hotel Register Company, the world's leading product distributors within the hospitality industry! And since the Wellness and Aromatherapy liners are contra-indicated on the site for pregnant women due to containing essential oils, I'm led to believe the rest do not. But let’s skip my minor gripe and focus on the product itself.

Basically it consists of thin, scented liners which adhere to your pillow (under the pillow-case) and emit their scent for a few days until it’s time to peel them off (they come off very easily, no trace). They’re indeed easy to use, although if you’re accustomed to silk pillowcases you might feel a bit of the screetch-scratch sound at first, but nothing too bad. One observation is that the liners themselves are manuactured in China, while the scent is produced in the US. (It seemed interesting to me). As to the scents, there’s something for every taste.

The categories and respective scents included in the Sleep Scentsations line are:
Aromatherapy: Bliss (mandarin and vanilla), Relaxing (lavender, bergamot, cedar)
Botanical: White Tea & Lily, Wild Flower (tobacco flower, white ginger lily & freesia)
Exotic: Ginger & Amber, Shanghai Nights (flowers & musks)
Fresh: Day at the Beach, Fresh Cut Grass
Sensual: My Boyfriend’s Shirt, Seduction (vanilla, mandarin, amber, honey)
Wellness: Cold RX (A therapeutic blend of essential oils formulated to stimulate relief of congestion, coughs and cold symptoms) and Snore RX (A therapeutic blend of essential oils formulated to suppress snoring)

The three individual liners sent to me to test included Day at the Beach (Fresh category), Ginger & Amber (Exotic category) and My Boyfriend’s Shirt (Sensual category).

From those Day at the Beach was easily my favourite, as it replicates the much sought-after suntan-lotion-effect, filtered by memory into evoking sandy dunes and oiled-up sexy bodies languorously sprawled under the sweltering sun. I admit despite my usually posher tastes, the whiff of a little creamy mandarin-ambery and tropical tiaré/jasmine smell catches my attention more often than not. Pairing it with reading Evil under the Sun, in which the indomitable Arlyna Stuart Marshall is exposing limps as brown as a salty-almond biscuit, is quite blissful.
Ginger Lily & Amber has a spicy and aqueous undertone beneath the soft, waxy and powdery floralcy which is pleasant, if not too memorable. Still, I expect that it would be quite pretty to many people, especially those who are fans of clean white florals and it makes for an inobtrusive prelude to sleep.
My Boyfriend’s Shirt is the least remarkable in the trio and the harshest in its aromatic fougère genre; if my boyfriend used comparable cologne, I guess he wouldn’t be my boyfriend! This is one that needs reworking in my opinion because it deduces from the impression left from the other two.

Sleep Scentsations Pillow Liners can be purchased online on the official site. One pack for a 30-day-supply costs $19.99.

Disclaimer: I was sent three individual liners as part of a PR giveaway.
Photo: Gisele Bundchen shot by Mario Testino for Vanity Fair.

Where I am fabulastically tagged....

The lovely K from Rose beyond the Thames (a wonderful blog, btw) tagged me and awarded me this fabulous award. So I have to play and expose myself yet again and again, haven't I? OK, I'll try and in the meantime award 5 more blogs with the "You're fabulous" tag.

The rules are:
1. You have to pass it (the award) on to 5 other fabulous blogs in a post.
2. You have to list 5 of your fabulous addictions in the post.
3. You must copy and paste the rules and the instructions below in the post.
Instructions: Include the person that gave you the award and link it back to them. When you post your five winners, make sure you link them as well. And don't forget to let your winners know they won an award from you by emailing them or leaving a comment on their blog.

So what about my ~euphemistically called fabulous~ addictions?

1.Cinematic Fixation: You all expected me to say perfume, huh? Well, no; that's a given! I am hereby confessing to visual pleasures (you might have guessed if you're following this blog). It especially focuses on David Cronenberg (ever since Videodrome and The Dead Zone; please watch that Poe recital again), David Lynch (ever since Eraserhead, The Elephant Man and Twin Peaks), Vincent Pryce (a fellow historian! how kewl!!) and Charlotte Rampling (can anyone resist the sexiest actress alive?)
Last night History of Violence was on. Guess what I was watching for the 5th time with one sleepy eye open.

2.Jewellery. No, I'm not a material girl and I don't need sugar daddies, I can get my own thank you very much (although S.O. has been quite generous). But the flutter of a decent jewel does make my heart skip a beat from time to time. This is only a part of my collection(click pic to enlarge; if interested I shall post more later), but they're current favourites. I want a Gavello ring with a skull in pink gold and small brilliants next!

3.Air-conditionning. This is even costlier than the above ultimately (darn electricity company!), but I simply can't envision summer or summer sleep without the trusted humming of my A/C unit. Please dear God, don't let failures happen.

4.Sour cherry drink by Epsa (a traditional Greek brand). My cheap indulgence, a summer staple and simply a-m-a-z-i-n-g!. Less than a euro a bottle and it has the most refreshing sour-sweet taste evah! I could drink it by the galon which is what I often do.

5.Reading. I can't help it and it sounds nerdy or pretentious, but everything within access must be devoured be it high art or lowly pulp-fiction pamphletes (I like those for balcony reading along with crosswords puzzles!). Books are friends. And we don't choose them, they choose us!

I am passing the baton to 5 more blogs (the choice was very difficult!), not strictly perfume, which fully deserve the "you're fabulous" award:

Les Tuilleries by AlbertCan: A dear friend on ethernet, but most importantly a sensitive and talented individual who writes on the arts and scents with gusto and genuine sophistication. His clips of classical music have me sorting out for the headphones, even when I should be frantically answering my mails before class.

Tea, sympathy and perfume by M: Her beautifully eclectic blog is dedicated to all flights of fancy possible through common themes in art, as well as notes of her self-smithed poetry which is elegant and thoughtful. And joy of joys, the occasional Barbie sighting brings it full circle!

Under the Cupola by L: Studying in Florence would have been my second choice, had I not succeeded into entering the preciously-difficult-to-accept-you and precariously mine-strewn National & Kapodistrian University of Athens. L is following that Florence course, finishing up her PhD while perusing rosette windows, drinking Chianti (I assume) and making discoveries in the wake of scent along the way including Calvados-inspired essences. If blogs can also present a slice of life, hers is a full-plate.

Perfume de Rosa Negra by Chris: Chris does the impossible; she tries to inject visibility to the unknown Brasil and South American perfume scene and she does it bilingually and with great skill. Reading her venue opens the vista to different cultural associations.

Fashion Tribes: Because a historian needs to dress well too and because getting inspired by Minoan wasp-waists is all very well (wish I had a wasp waist too!) I follow a couple of fashion and design blogs. Fashion tribes is compact, aesthetically easy on the eye and sweetly to the point.

Photos © by Perfume Shrine

Chanel news...yet again

It's final and official! What we have been discussing on Perfume Shrine for quite some time is finally a fact: All 12 of Les Exclusifs will be on Chanel.com (the US site) very soon! And for a limited time only (May 16th-May 24th), you can receive a deluxe sample of either Bois des Iles (code 0509BOIS ) or Cuir de Russie (code 0509CUIR) with your 85$ purchase on Chanel.com!