Iso E Super, its merits, its faults, Geza Schoen and Jean Claude Ellena

The chemistry of fragrances seems like an arcane side-path in the vast avenue of pretty smells. Those who venture there are either chemists, eternal students or people reading perfume boards. On those last ones, Iso E Super is nom du jour due to recent rumours of restricting its use to specific ratios in products (and they're many!) and due to its increasing popularity, some of it attached to the work of master perfumer Jean Claude Ellena who has experimented with its magic properties many a time in the past to glorious effect: Terre d'Hermès, Poivre Samarkande and Déclaration are utilizing lots of it, exploring minimalism: the play of scents note-for-note with no sentimentality attached. Even an entire composition, Molecule 01 by perfumer Geza Schöen of niche brand Escentric Molecules (his Escentric 01 also features it in high ratios along with pink pepper, lime peel, orris and incense) is composed of nothing else but it, diluted in solvent, because the perfumer loved it so! I am hereby reminding you that he is the perfumer who created HSIDEWS for artist Sissel Tolaas and he has collaborated with the London-based niche brand Ormonde Jayne. The theory behind Molecule 01 and IsoE Super was that it would create an appealing effect to those smelling it on the wearer without it being perceived as a "perfume"; the ultimate skin-scent, much like natural ambergris to which it mimics certain aspects would act. Another scent which officially contains it is Maitresse by Agent Provocateur, while the masculine fragrance Fahrenheit by Dior (1988) iincludes a 25% Iso E Super in the compound. In the legendary woody oriental Féminité du Bois by Shiseido, under the maestro Serge Lutens's direction, the material serves as an harmoniser between the plummy effect of the fruits with the violet ionones and the cedarwood bottom notes. Iso E Super is used in so many fragrances today that it would be hard to compile an actual list that would not bore everyone silly! But what the hell is Iso E Super?, you might ask. Let's take matters at the top.

Iso E Super® is the trademark name of aromachemical 7-acetyl, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,1,6,7-tetramethyl naphthalene and I guess it's pretty obvious why it's called that instead of its long organic chemistry name. According to International Fragrances and Flavors Iso E Super is

"Smooth, woody, amber with unique aspects giving a ''velvet'' like sensation. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances. Superb floralizer found in the majority of newer fine fragrances and also useful in soaps. Richer in the desirable gamma isomer than isocyclemone e".

Arborone is the odor active enantiomer of Iso E Super, with its clean woody and pleasing aroma.[1] The uses of Iso-E Super are legion: from bleach and deo sticks to soaps, shampoos, laundry detergents and fine fragrance. Given that its colour is almost transparent to very light yellow it poses no problems in being incorporated in formulae and is also used in the pharmaceutical industry.
Despite the IFF being the company to trademark it, Chinese companies such as Zhejiang Winsun Imp. & Exp. Co., Ltd. do provide it at a concentration of 90% for various uses. Home-made mixes would suggest one part Iso-E Super to 9 parts base, such as dipropylene glycol/perfumer's alcohol (therefore a 10% concentration). Although neat use on skin isn't recommended, minor "accidents" of spillage have not produced anything sinister. Taking in mind that it is quite inexpensive, it is perhaps of interest for apprentices and amateurs alike to experiment themselves at high dilution.

Smelling it in itself one is surprised by how almost non-existent a smell Iso-E Super has; not something one would describe as a smell in so many words, it's unapologetically synthetic and perhaps vaguely cedar-like, slightly sweet. It seems to vanish very quickly and resurface on skin in intervals from time to time very discreetly: The heat of the skin is intergral to its volatilising properly and it seems that any test on paper would not give an accurate perception of its true nature. It is however quite recognisable once you get to sample it and you will have fun detecting it in many major fragrances on the market todat. This subtle "skin-scent" effect is what in perfume-lingo is used to evoke that a fragrance stays close to the skin, not projecting in a wide radius; but also that it has some skin compatibility effect that makes it smell not like a usual perfume. Therefore IsoE Super soon gained the reputation of it acting like a pheromone, that invisible aroma that is supposed to attract same species potential sexual partners and ensures recognition of compatibility between mates. Plainly explained, pheromones act to the vomero nasal organ ensuring that pigs mate with pigs and not rhinoceruses for instance! Much as the matter is exciting and intriguing hower, the scientific community has not been able to conclusively establish validity in the theory of pheromones working in humans so far, although popular mythology is rampant with examples of products aimed to achieve this magical attraction (such as Androstenol, Androstadienone, and Androsterone). In an interview given by perfumer Geza Schöen on the creation of Molecule 01, he intimated:

"When I was introduced to ISO E Super in 1990 I gave it to a friend of mine to wear. We went out to this bar in our hometown and it took only a few minutes until this woman steered straight into our direction to inquire about who smelled so lovely! Since then I knew that this stuff is special indeed. I suggested it to the guy who was in charge of Diesel back then and he said that he felt that this is a bit too much - even for them!" [2]

He's quick to elaborate however that it does not act as a pheromone (that's a misconception if scientifically examined) but that simply it's "not possible not to like it", as no one has ever commented he/she doesn't like its particular smell per se.

Perhaps the most vexing matter to perfume enthusiasts however has been how Iso E Super is one of the 14 chemicals that have been recommended for study by the National Toxicology Program (NTP) with impending restrictions on its use. Ever since as early as 2000 the matter has been in discussion. In a letter by Betty Bridges, RN Fragranced Products Information Network (http://www.fpinva.org/) addressed to Dr. Scott A. Masten, Ph.D. from the Office of Chemical Nomination and Selection, Environmental Toxicology Program of the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences in 2002 we read the following:

"International Flavors and Fragrance's suggested use levels of Iso E Super is up to 10% of the fragrance formula and is recommended for use in a variety of products (IFF, 2002). Isocyclemone E's (a material with a different ratio of isomers, same CAS# 54464-57-2) suggested use level is up to 30% and is recommended in a variety of applications.(IFF, 2002) [...] Considering Iso E Super's similar structure to AETT and AHTN, two polycyclic musk compounds with known concerns, it is likely that Iso E Super and other chemically similar materials would also bioaccumulate in human tissue, persist in the environment, and have health concerns. There are concerns related to AHTN causing liver toxicity and discoloration. Galaxolide, another polycyclic musk has similarconcerns, but to a lessor degree (SCCNFP, 2000) Chromogenic properties have been associated with neurotoxicity (Sabri, 2002)"

Before publication of the 43rd amendment issued by IFRA it had been rumoured that Iso E Super should be a restricted raw material. This doesn't mean that it is not to be used any more as novices often assume erronesouly. It simply means that it should be incorporated in a formula below a certain level for it to be commerialised (and of course one could do whatever they pleased if they made a do-it-yourself formula at their own labs/homes!). On the other hand another aroma material, Boisvelone (C16H26O) closely related to Iso E Super (but reportedly a little more elegant; I haven't tried it myself while one source[3] reports it as the exact same thing) has disappeared from commercial use. According to one perfumer currently teaching [4] however, a feminine "alcoholic" product (that means an eau de toilette, eau de parfum or extrait de parfum ~generally any product with an alcohol base) there is a limit of approximately 20% of Iso E Super in the final product. Although it might seem like a lot, if you are composing an Eau de Parfum, which means a 15-20% dilution, you're well within limits still even if the entire fragrance consists of Iso E Super. Luckily for all of us, the latest amendement of IFRA can be downloaded here and it seems to make us sigh a sigh of relief for now: Iso E Super is not yet restricted. ** [Please see addition on the bottom for current info on IFRA approved ratio]

Hot on the heels of the sinister rumours was the prevalent concern of perfume lovers whether the fragrances that feature it (with Jean Claude Ellena's most prominently) would suffer from it. It was only the other day that the matter was brought again to the table on this very venue, while discussing Déclaration by Cartier, one of the most influential of Ellena's fragrances. Since the objective of Perfume Shrine is to be very clear in what is only a hypothesis on our part and what is a matter of fact, we took things in our hands to further investigate and the resulting message is even more assuaging, discouraging you from frantic stocking-up of fragrances which you would fear would be unrecognisably altered. The fragrances by Jean Claude Ellena will not be altered or influenced by any -as yet only suggested for the future- restrictions of Iso-E Super ratio as they are already well below the ratio proposed for the restrictions. The information is official and comes from mr. Jean Claude Ellena himself. I hope this article proves useful to you!

Here is a table of Top Ten Fragrances with Regard to Their Content in Iso E Super
No., Fragrance Name (Company, launch year), Iso E Super
[NB. the percentage is in regards to compound, not diluted ready to use product]

1 Molecule 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 100%
2 Perles de Lalique (Lalique, 2007) 80%
3 Poivre Samarcande (Herme`s, 2004) 71%
4 Escentric 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 65%
5 Terre d'Hermes (Hermes, 2006) 55%
6 Incense Kyoto (comme des garcons, 2002) 55%
7 Incense Jaisalmer (comme des garcons, 2002) 51%
8 Fierce for Men (Abercrombie & Fitch, 2002) 48%
9 Kenzo Air (Kenzo, 2003) 48%
10 Encre noire (Lalique, 2006) 45%

Ref for table: Schon G. 2008. 'Escentric' molecules. Chemistry & Biodiversity. 5 (6) :1154-8. In June 2008. Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta AG,Zurich


EDIT TO ADD/AMEND 2011: At the time of writing this was the correct info. As of 2011 however the IFRA industry regulating body has set a maximum dilution limit of 21.4% in the compound. Jean Claude Ellena's scents and the majority of scents using it are relatively safe, as a mere 1% in the formula in enough to provide the qualities it's famed for, but it is the updated info for anyone caring to use it in their own formulae.


References:
[1]Helvetica Chimica Acta, Volume 82, Issue 7, Date: July 7, 1999, Pages: 1016-1024
[2]I heart Berlin.de
[3]Nextbio.com
[4]J'aime le parfum!

Pics from Iheartberlin.de and Hermes.

Narciso Rodriguez Essence: fragrance review

Narciso For Her by young, hip and understated designer Narciso Rodriguez had me at hello all those years ago with its delicious musky trail that is too sexy for words, yet polished enough to pass off as classy; ever since the brand has me curious as to what they come up with next. Proving to be a mega-trendsetter ever since its launch, Narciso for Her catapulted the market into a gene-pool sharing the same musks and "clean" synthesized patchouli bases shaped into the beautiful but traitorous dress of the "modern chypré"; in moments of truth and Sundays' waking up too late after a night partying next to delicious-looking strangers those scents shed that pretentious dress for the comfortable and more accurate flannel PJs of "woody florals with musks" and that's perfectly all right by me. But I digress... Luckily for all of us, the tremendous success of Narciso For Her didn't wind the Rodriguez brand into mechanically and pacingly launching myriads of "flankers"; with the exception of slight differences between the original range itself (eau de toilette vs eau de parfum vs parful roll-on vs Musk For Her oil) and the masculine counterpart issued one year ago, they have restrained themselves into an elegant rhythm which I respect.

Essence, Rodriguez's newest feminine fragrance, didn't grab me as much as Narciso For Her initially did, but that doesn't mean it is a bad fragrance; on the contrary it has a strangely insidious, undercurrent appeal of being made by very skilled hands who were given a not-too-precise-brief and although I am snobishly trying to write it off as repetitive and trite, I can't really. In Essence Rodriguez collaborated again with Beauté Prestige International, the Paris-based fragrance division of the Shiseido Cosmetics Corporation, aiming to capture a "sensual and luminous fragrance with a modern heart of musc enhanced by radiant notes of rose petals, powder notes of iris and hints of amber resulting in a floral, powdery musc fragrance". It doesn't sound terribly exciting, it utilizes the same well-known notes that Narciso Rodriguez obviously loves and I bet that the Spanish-born perfumer Alberto Morillas of Firmenich ~at once a classicist and a modernist and amazingly prolific in his almost 40-years-long career~ could have provided the formula with both hands tied behind his back and blindfolded at the drop of a hat! A recipient of numerous awards, among them the coveted Prix Francois Coty in 2003, Alberto Morillas is responsible for such bestsellers as Armani's Sensi and Aqua di Gio, Bulgari Blu, Omnia and Thé Blanc, Carolina Herrera Chic and 212, Cartier's Le Baiser du Dragon , M7 for YSL, Marc Jacobs Daisy and of course another huge influence on the market: Flower by Kenzo. The man knows how to attract the audience's loyalty, therefore enough said.

The overall effect of Narciso Rodriguez Essence is a clean unctuous almost soapy/aldehydic scent with classical mementos of White Linen minus some of the sharpness and Chanel No.5 minus the sweet florals or the skanky sexiness of lacy panties underneath prim suits, yet with an eerily reminiscent warm-skin-feel that the original Narciso for Her possessed as well. The clean musks featured, with their lathery bubbliness, have their lineage in Morillas's 212 and Daisy, while the powdery segment takes a page off Flower. Little development happens from the initial dryer-sheet sharply aliphatic and abstractly floral opening to the polite muskiness skin-like effect of probably Ambroxan*, (wishful-thinking) Muscenone** and Habanolide**. For what is worth the current modern white musk accord was first created by Alberto Morillas himself in Emporio Armani White for Her (combining Habanolide to Helvetolide**) and he used Muscenone in both Flower and Vanille 44 for niche brand Le Labo. The whole pared-down approach reminds me of the Escentric Molecules line. Although the powdery hazy effect is often attributed to iris, I do not detect any of its melancholic earthiness in the composition, same as with Infusion d'Iris by Prada which utilized a similar approach to the upscale-shampoo-latheriness vibe which seems to be all the rage now (judging by even such offerings as Chanel's Beige from Les Exclusifs). Luckily for the anosmiacs to Narciso For Her it seems to be rather different, enough to maybe give a jolt to their hypothalamus and be discernable to them.

Rodriguez wanted Essence to represent duality: "the intense and the ethereal, the simple and the complex" with an emphasis on "sun's purity" which reminds me of the "solar musks" accord of his first feminine perfume. I guess it's shorthand for "clean and warm" which Essence most certainly is. Lovers of that unperfume-y aspect as well as adventurers of all things delicately musky should flock to at least try it, the rest might find it non remarkable or even unpleasant in its screechy soapy tonalities which overstay their welcome impressively. It's pleasant enough for people into that genre, quite unisex and rather fun (for the price asked) to wear when that Sunday in flannels comes around once in a while, although not as enjoyably fulfilling as the original Narciso for Her is.

The bottle glows from within its mirrored core, round in its glass curvaceousness, created by noted industrial designer Ross Lovegrove (recipient of the prize Royal Designer for Industry in 2004 and art-exhibitor at MOMA and Guggenheim Museum in New York, the Centre Pompidou in Paris as well as the Design Museum in London). The eye-catching design is almost a futuristic, rounded interpretation of the original solid and austere Narciso For Her flacon.
The advertising campaign shot by the lens of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin
features supermodel Catherine MacNeil to whom Narciso "was drawn to instinctively".

Notes for Narciso Rodriguez Essence:
iris, rose, benzoin, modern musks


Narciso Rodriguez Essence is available in Eau de Parfum 50ml/1.7oz and 100ml/3.4oz exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue from March and globally in April.
Ancilary products include a body lotion, a bath and shower cream and a deodorant spray.

Ad pic via fibre2fashion.com , soap courtesy of sassylicious.com.au

*Abroxan is a synthetic aromachemical mimicking the ambergris sensuous note.
**Muscenone, Habanolide, Helvetolide are gtrademark names for different varieties of synthetic musks.

STR8 to the movies

Of all the very successful commercials of the Sarantis Group for their fragrances (C-THRU, B.U., Xpose etc) the ones which made more of an impression to me due to their very cinematic and sensuous nature are the ones for the masculine fragrance STR8 (ie. straight), titillating without being vulgar and with small details that make them a little "story" in themselves.

The constants are cars, American "heavy" cars in particular with their big skeleton of steel, expanses of skin mapped like roads, darkness and light, liquid drops oozing like pearls and teeth (mechanical and otherwise) gnawing on soft parts...

The first one set the tone under the haunting notes of Motorpsycho's Stalemate with its rhytmic staccato echoing the editing "cuts".



The one to follow had a gothic-vampiric feel seen through the masterful direction of Eric Barbier and the jazzy ambience of The room by Sillyboy.



The newest one makes the very American Kerouak's On the Road take a whole new dimension with the long-winded J.Butterfly from the longplay "From One Human Being To Another" by Mourah.



All clips originally uploaded on Youtube.

Much ado about Nothing in the End: Terracotta Sous Le Vent by Guerlain

Let me preface this post by saying that I am not inferring that the products in themselves are "much ado about nothing" because I haven't even tried them yet, but that the clamor and furore over the supposed "sacrilege" by Guerlain of mixing names etc. producing the upteenth flanker were exactly that, in this particular case: a bubble that burst!

It turns out as spring and summer makeup collections roll around that the above mentioned Terracotta Sous Le Vent was nothing more than part of the skincare products belonging to the beautifying tanning/makeup line of famous "Terracotta", responsible for a couple generations equating it with "chic in the sun". Definitely NOT a new flanker fragrance, then! Not meant to reprise any element of the classic Sous Le Vent, now part of Il Etait une Fois line at the boutique Guerlain, either. We had been wrestling the cause for nothing (on this particular case at least, because it's worth fighting on other products of the brand).
The Dry Oil below is included to give some hint as to how the corresponding Mist might be smelling as well; the official PR machine at Guerlain via Isabelle Rousseau likens the smell of the Mist vaguely to the lily-spicy-baked Terracotta Voile d'été (created in 1999 by Jean-Paul Guerlain as a limited edition and reprised in Quand Vient L'été for Les Parisiennes exclusive line). Heavily diluted, then, I presume. And the Sous le Vent moniker is only mentioned to evoke the exotics of the islands of the Carribean thus grouped.

Here are the relevant details courtesy of temptalia:

"Terracotta Eau sous le Vent Soothing Moisturizing Mist $55.00 (in the pic on the left)
A delicious mist that improves hydration in the skin and amplifies the tan while enchanting the senses with a sun-soaked scent. Its refreshing texture is enriched with a vegetable protein to bathe the skin in softness and protect against the dryness and heat of summer. Moisture levels in the skin are increased up to 35% as the Tan Booster complex simultaneously works to enhance and prolong your tan day after day.
Terracotta Huile du Voyageur Nourishing Dry Oil SPF 8 $59.00 (in the pic on the right)
Sensuous and nourishing this silky-light, dry oil leaves the skin with a divinely smooth and luscious finish. The lightly perfumed scent of the Tiare flower immediately takes you to an exotic, faraway paradise while the oil’s Tan Booster Technology and Roucou, a reddish-brown vegetable pigment, intensify the golden colour of your skin. The soft, satin finish is radiantly accented with an iridescent veil made of golden mother-of-pearl particles".

Just to be fair...

Related reading on PerfumeShrine: Guerlain news, reviews and discussion

C-Thru fragrances et al from Sarantis Group: some musings

Many of you must have seen the new advertisements and editorials on the newly exported fragrance line C-Thru in Allure magazine and been wondering about them. The line comprises of identically shaped/designed bottles in different shades with various gemstone names corresponding to different scents. As they have been produced by the Greek company Sarantis for quite a few years I am in a position to let you know that they're competently made but rather derivative of well-known styles of fragrances that are popular, offering a low-budget solution of a twist yet without them being dupes. After all, their motto is "great brands for every day".
C-Thru of course stands for See Through which evokes both the diaphanous packaging but also -subliminally- the showcasing of one's personality through their scent choice and the fantasy taking flight via choosing a personal fragrance, as if our eyes "see through" a story. I think the name choice for the line is quite clever, actually!




The Greek-aired commercials featured Andriana Sklenarikova-Karembeu, extremely popular in Greece because her footballer husband had at the time signed a contract with a Greek football team and thus Andriana was a common sight in the fields and the streets of Athens. Comparatively the US-airing commercials are less "sharp" and more "romantic".
The line consists of gem-named fragrances in Eau De Toilette 75ml, Eau De Toilette 30ml, Deodorant Body Spray 100ml and Natural Spray 75ml.
The company urges us to "Discover...
...the purity and fascination of water in Aqua Marine,
...the warmth and nobility in Ruby
...the sparkling light in Emerald
...the vitality and beauty in Amethyst
...the ultimate love and eternity in Black Diamond
...and the purity and luminocity in Pearl Garden".

Sarantis has never been short of budgeting nor attention given towards their advertising, producing small "films" that have actually a story-line and recognisable frontmen, judging by their B.U. (ie. Be You) fragrance line especially (a comparable project with mass-market fragrances encased in tin cans looking shiny and bright on the drugstore aisles), when they hired local pop-sensation Sakis Rouvas to front their commercials, quite memorably.



And they had also the good instincts to hire Christina Aguilera for their more "out there" fragrance line Xpose (with the characteristic netting on the bottles recalling both fishermen's nets and spider webs, entangling men).



From a marketing point of view, the expansion into the very competitive market of the US, especially in terms of drugstore and mass-distribution (let's not forget the giants Bath & Body Works and Coty), is well-timed. Sarantis has striken when the drop in consumers' buying power is directing them to 'combustible' products that do not present a huge commitment but brighten their day a bit with their optimism. The fragrances are shiny, fun, and tongue-in-cheek enough and I bet they seem completely exotic due to their origin to the average American consumer. Are they really that exotic smell-wise? Not really. The company kept that characteristic Mediterranean touch for their Olympic products called Olympic Spirit commemorating the Athens Olympics of 2004, which are now sadly quite rare to get.

But my favourite commercials were shot for a masculine fragrance: to follow on the next post!

Clips originally uploaded on Youtube.