Beatrice Piquet (1963-2010)

Perfumer with Intenational Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Paris-based Béatrice Piquet succumbed to a prolonged illness... Famously responsible for the masterful L'Instant pour Homme for Guerlain, Burberry The Beat, the classic Trussardi Uomo in the black crock bottle, Bulgari Rose Essentielle, Davidoff's Echo, Boss Deep Red and Dark Blue, as well as assorted fragrances for Benetton, the Beckhams and Banana Republic, she was a quiet player in this emerging game of rock-stars. May she rest in peace.

If you want to grab a profile of the perfumer, you are referred to your local library for the Madame Figaro magazine of December 11, 2004, p.64.

pic via whatwedoissecret

Now You Can Smell Like Transformers & Other Blockbusters

Movie tie-in colognes might not be so distant in the future as we might have imagined...I stumbled upon the news that a reader of Cinematical blog named Jeff Solomon came across "perfumes for sale inspired by some of your favorite films.
Unfortunately, we're not talking about limited edition scents for Coco avant Chanel, or even Perfume. No, apparently somebody thought it would be a good idea to make scents inspired by such films as Bee Movie, Madagascar 2, and Transformers". (I assume these are the fragrances for which mr.Solomon provided evidence in the way of photographic proof; I kinda see how one would like to graft something of ms.Megan Fox onto them, although I am not sure it would be her scent necessarily). Thus reported Jessica Barnes, who goes on to note that "This isn't the first time that the world of the big screen has wound up at the perfume counter, as you might remember how back in 2001, NYC-based Demeter Fragrances released a limited edition perfume for Hedwig and The Angry Itch that was a scent reminiscent of hairspray, cigarette smoke, and cheap hotel rooms (kind of gross, but at least it made sense)".

Therefore assuming these might be official tie-ins produced by the major studios, thus cashing in on the mania that follows a huge box-office success, and not the underground product of hard-core fandom, should we be worried about the future? Do you want to smell like Madagascar 2 and all the zoo animals it includes? Or, wait, L'Artisan Parfumeur has already done that in their zoo-inspired (and terrific) Dzing!

pic from movie Transformers via www.wallpaperez.info

Guerlain Flora Nymphea: new fragrance, new film

To celebrate 10 years of Aqua Allegoria scents (meant to interpret notes in a simple, uncomplicated way), Guerlain releases this spring Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphéa. Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphéa, is composed of three main ingredients – seringa (NB this is not lilac but Philadelphus coronarius/mock orange which smells like heady white flowers), orange blossom and honey and was composed by in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser. To create the scent, Guerlain claims using "an exquisite orange tree flower that's been produced in Calabria for more than three generations". Fig and mimosa also combine with orange tree flower to create the romantic scent.

The outer carton of the fragrances in all the line of Aqua Allegoria scents changes: the symbol becomes the embossed bee in different colours upon a white background, instead of the romantic and swirling flower, herbs and spices designs of the past. In honour of the 10th anniversary Guerlain will also present an animated movie which will feature a nymph named Flora Nymphea who will tell the story of flowers and scents led by a bee, symbol of the brand. The movie was filmed in 3D production and is one minute long, told by Olivia Ruiz (click below to watch). The advertising campaign also features a feminine character – a nymph from a fairy tale, with pale pink floral petals. The Face is Anna Selezneva, photographed by Paolo Roversi.

Guerlain's Flora Nymphéa will be available as 125 ml of Eau de Toilette in a redesigned flacon by Robert Granai: the familiar honeycomb is reprised with its bee on the cap.

Musk Series 3: The Many Permutations of Musk

In all of perfume speak, "musk" and "musky" has got to be the most casually utilized term, often taking on hidden nuances inadvertedly to the speaker, based on their own perception of the odoriferous molecules creating the impression. We had touched upon this issue while discussing the cultural perception of musk (Musk Series Part 1), peppered with anecdotes. We had also tried to shed some light into the differences between the natural essence (produced from the deer Moschus moschiferous L.) and the vast array of synthetic musks in the industry today on this article (Musk Series Part 2).

In the words of Philip Kraft “the more one studies [musk] the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive–attractive, chemical–warm, sweaty–balmy, acrid–waxy, earthy–powdery, fatty–chocolate-like, pungent–leathery, resinous–spicy, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions” [1]. Still, beyond our interpretation (surely a personal matter) and the more clandestine issue of which ingredients are actually utilized in any given perfume, anyone immersing themselves into the fascinating subject of musks stumbles on another obstacle: What about the denominations that the companies and online boutiques give to their musks and musk notes themselves? What is "white musk", "black musk", "Egyptian musk" and so on and on to infinity? Let's try to find out in this guide.

White musk
The easiest to tackle, because of its ubiquity. You have probably seen the term in single-standing fragrances at the drugstore, such as the famous Jovan White Musk, and you have probably seen it in relation to the continuing success of The Body Shop's White Musk. The latter is comprised of the synthetic musks Galaxolide (7,7%), Tonalide (1,6%) a little Cashmeran (0,1%) for a total of 9.4% of white musks. Galaxolide (an International Fragrances & Flavours synthetic molecule with staggering popularity in the industry in both fine fragrance and functional products) gives a a clean, but also musky flowery-woody odour with a sweet, powdery nuance: You're probably well familiar with it through fabric softeners such as Comfort and Soflan and through detergents like Coral. White musk in perfumery therefore has become synonymous with a "clean", soapy and somewhat biting impression, with a passing floral tonality. Globalide (another musk synthetic, also called Habanolide) is often used in white musk compositions: A metallic smelling, fresh radiant musk which opens up the bouquet. Indeed its coupling with Helvetolide in Emporio Armani White For Her, by Alberto Morillas in 2001, gave rise to the term "white musk" as official perfume lingo beyond the brand names of yore ~its olfactory profile opposed to the balmy darkness of the prior nitromusks. The same synthetic (Globalide) enters the aldehydic musk Glow by Jennifer Lopez, accenting the fresh white floral components of the formula, while it also gives the cooly herbal-soapy feel of Mugler's Cologne and the baby-soft"clean" of Clair de Musc by Serge Lutens. It also outlives the blackberry top notes of the popular Trish McEvoy #9 Blackberry Musk.

Egyptian Musk
Even though the adjective might make you think that these musks come in their own little sarcophagi chanting in an unknown language, the reality is far removed from such exoticism. Simply put, Egyptian musk does not originate in Egypt, but is simply a variant of a musk blend in which the clean, scrubbed-skin nuance is the dominant part. The laundry day feel is there, much like with white musk (see above) but in general the effect is less screetchy and subtler to detect. Famous examples in use include the perennial Narciso For Her, where the fractialised patchouli (keeping the cleaner aspects) and the synthetic white flowers are highlighted by the clean muskiness of the base and smoothed out by a recent amber molecule, Amberlyn and a hint of honey. The Cuban born designer was inspired by an Egyptian musk oil he used to buy in New York City along his friend and muse Caroline Bessette-Kennedy. (It turns out it was Abdul Kareem's Egyptian Musk). The Egyptian musk part is easier to detect it if you test the Musk For Her by Narciso Rodriguez in the same line of fragrances (for a breakdown of the confusing concentrations of the line, please refer to this guide). There, Egyptian Musk stands almost solely on its own. They have recently updated the line with specific Musk editions.
The combination with "clean" patchouli seems to be an approved shortcut for this variant. Reading through this recipe for homemade Egyptian Musk, you come across the mention of patchouli leaves and rose petals entering the composition in a vegetal-base oil.
Several indie perfumers such as Ava Luxe, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Sonoma Scent Studio, as well as etailers (the likes of Nemat, Sweetcakes, Utopia Oils et al) make Egyptian musk fragrances. Its popularity has to do with its sheer subtlety, it would never offend a scent-phobic environment and it is pleasant to have around when you don't feel like perfume. The popular Egyptian Goddess oil from Auric Blends is a good example of a plain, unadulterated Egyptian musk with no other tonalities included: it smells a lot like fabric softener! You might also encounter this as "Pearl Musk" such as chez Ava Luxe, who offers both this and an Egyptian Musk version.

African Musk
Despite the "wild" evoking name, African musks usually are variations on the theme of Egyptian musk, soft, clean, inoffensive with an inclusion of sweet vanilla which makes them even cuddlier.

Red Musk
A chromatic variation in the name which was inspired by the "white" adjective, it bears an incense note reminiscent of the Eastern temples. Several etailers provide "red musks".

Black Musk
Similar concept with red musk, but this time with a woody, somewhat dirtier background, although not exactly animalic.

Blue Musk
Another variation poised on colour colding, this is close to white musks, with perhaps a sweeter musky nuance, a little softer and close to African Musk. If a manufacturer makes both Blue Musk and African Musk, it would be advised to try out before investing in both.

China Musk
Inspired by Body Time's China Rain, China musk types usually feature a distinct aldehydic and green top which brings on a refreshing feeling. Halfway between the metallic feel of white musks and the suaveness of Egyptian musks, China musks are saturated with light and are very pleasant. Ava Luxe makes an exceptional speciment termed China Musk.

Oriental Musk
A slight tweek on the China Musk idea (see above). Usually brought by jasmine inclusions and powdery background. Ava Luxe has one in her line.

Tunisian Musk
Generally the term refers to a sweet variation on the clean Egyptian theme (see above). Some manufacturers offer both Egyptian and Tunisian versions, so there is a slight twist in there. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz as well as TheParfumerie.com offer their versions.

Turkish Musk
Inspired by the traditions of tea and exotic leathers brought through the Silk Road to Constantinople, perfumers have come up with a musk blend that uses tarry topnotes to denote black tea and leathery nuances. Drier than the African-termed musks and with a little bit of sophistication, while still a wearable musk for layering or wearing alone. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has a nice offering in this category.

Tibetan or Himalyan Musk
A variation seemingly close to the real Tonkin musk tincture but in reality not even close. These are warmer, sweetish interpretations presented by etailers and street vendors which can be very pleasant and inviting with good lasting power and hushed tonalities. Nemat makes a lovely Himalayan Musk oil which is supreme for wearing alone or layering purposes under other fragrances or oils to make them warmer and softer.

Nude Musk
I took the term used by Ava Luxe's fragrance to denote this category which also includes Perfect Veil by Creative Scentualisation and Sonoma Scent Studio Opal (for a comparison review of all three, click here) just because it's so erotically charged. This is a category which is meant to smell like "your skin but better", obviously a very popular demand and considered quite sexy (the skin-on-skin concept). It takes a lightly citrusy top (bergamot) and rounds it out through sandalwood and other creamy notes, blending into the skin where it smells as if you rolled into bed after a shower: That would be the scent you'd leave on the sheets. Suggestive, I know...The permutation with sandalwood was famously introduced in the 1970s with Bonne Belle's Skin Musk, Sarah Jessica Parker's longtime standby (this is now made with a slight reorchestration by Parfums du Coeur).

Wild Card musks (or anything goes...)
Some of the musks which you will encounter in your galivanting among fragrance lines are imaginatively named with poetic overtones leaving you wondering what they entail. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has a whole array of unusual musks. Among them she makes a terrific animalic musk called Almadina Musk, which although reminiscent of the Arabian Al Madina, is in fact a leathery (lots of castoreum) and green marvel which projects with swagger and is highly recommended as a stand-alone fragrance. The Body Shop has a similar case of a musk which is not really musky: Japanese Musk is really a chypre in the manner of powdery chypres of old (see Ma Griffe); starched, cool, delightful and wonderful on a handkerchief tucked inside a purse.
DSH Special Formula X is a skin-friendly and erotic perfume that evokes boyish musks of yore, presented in the plain and longer lasting Extreme version. Dawn's Old School Musk is reminiscent of the 70s specimens specifically, such as Kiehl's as well as Houbigant's and Dana's, slightly greener and animalic. The touch of ambergris at the base makes it a bit like salt-water dipped skin.
The Fragrance Shop boasts an Almadina Musk too which they describe as "a spicy bitter musk with animalic undertones". Coty on the other hand makes the wonderful old barber-shop evocative Wild Musk which has a fougere overlay over the musky base. A retro fragrance with warm, inviting and lightly masculine accents, superb! Sonoma Scent Studio makes a spicy musk, called Sienna Musk, which is truly wonderful. (for a full review, please refer to this link)

Although mentioned in passing above, some etailers such as The Perfumerie.com feature lots of ethnically named musks, such Nigerian Musk (green-ish and named as a variant of Egyptian obviously; same with Tunisian, Indian etc). Generally they indicate what kind of "blend" they fit into, but trying out is always recommended first. As with everything...

The Musk Series will continue with lots of other interesting info and reviews.

[1] Kraft, Philip. “Aroma Chemicals IV: Musks” in Chemistry and Technology of Flavors and Fragrances, ed. by David Rowe. Blackwell Publishing, UK, 2004
Photograph of Lisa Lion by Robert Mapplethorpe. Perfume pics via parfum de pub

No fragrance for Detroit city workers

"[Detroit] City employees will be urged not to wear perfume, cologne or aftershave as a result of a settlement in a federal lawsuit. Officials plan to place warning placards in three city buildings. The signs will warn workers to avoid “wearing scented products, including … colognes, aftershave lotions, perfumes, deodorants, body/face lotions … (and) the use of scented candles, perfume samples from magazines, spray or solid air fresheners."

Amazing! And very hard to implement...

Read the whole article on this link.

Annette Neuffer Narcissus Poeticus: fragrance review & a draw

"Just a drop on each wrist and two in the bath were enough to send silver running down the walls" wrote French Vogue editor Joan Juliet Buck once upon a time, referring to an absolute of narcissus, properly named Narcissus Poeticus in Latin or Poet's Daffodil (it's a kind of daffodil after all). And she continued: "It set the world throbbing out of contol when I wore it. It became a little weird. It was only years later that I read inhaling too much of it can make you go mad". Makes you want to rush out and find out where narcissus absolute is available, doesn't it!
Yet narcissus absolute is almost never used in industrial calibre perfumes because of its scarcity and minute yield, which makes the cost prohibitive. Once upon a time it entered such romantic compositions as Worth's Je Reviens, but certainly not any more.
Therefore, upon being informed that indie German perfumer and jazz musician Annette Neuffer had prepared her own version of this intoxicating spring flower which spots the fields of my homeland right about springtime, I was immediately reminded of the above trivia. Annette reassured me that the fragrance "actually srceams for you - the indolic flowers gal". Can you say I've made my proclivities well-known...The dice was cast and predictably I was toast upon the very first vapour.

Because you see, all-naturals Narcissus Poeticus is heady, bedazzling, Bacchic, mind-blowing and beautiful, there's no other way to describe it! The tale of Narcissus, struck by Nemesis for his egotistical admiration makes you understand well just how this little flower can truly madden! The fragrance by Annette blends luscious, vibrant, natural essences, weaved into a dynamic composition; I have had it evolve on my skin, and each day there is a new nuance to be revealed, one day it's the jasmine, another what I perceive as orange blossom absolute (the genius pairing first conceived for Narcisse Noir by Caron) and another yet I get lots of yummy tonka bean. The inspiration came through early botanical fragrant evaluation excursions in Annette's Grandma's garden: "I was about 1,5 years old then. In spring there were lots of narcissus, jonquils and violets in bloom and their scent fascinated me already in that very early age of about 15 months! My grandma told me that I never put the flowers in my mouth, like all little kids do, but picked and inhaled them. The garden was located between forest and river and the most exciting humid crisp green scents were wafting around and intermingled with the air of the flowers".

This spring awakening is translated into Narcissus Poeticus. "Galbanum is the personification of that fresh spring green elusion and matches wonderfully with the essence of violet leaf. And a little later on in the year the fruity and fresh black currant buds - I used the absolute of it very sparingly to give a hint of fruitiness". Those who are afraid of the bitter green tang of the exotic grass of galbanum should sigh with relief, here it's weaved in very smoothly without dominating. Narcissus with its intoxicating, sweet, yet at the same time almost smoky vibe, poised between jasmine and hyacinth, is represented in all realism here; as if the white blooms are sprouting in front of your computer-weary eyes from the landscape painting across the wall.

You'd be hard pressed to peg this fragrance only as a floral or a green, nevertheless; there is an intimate, unsettling (deeply sexual) vibe about it, like a warm pillow where a beloved head had slept on the night before and you're clutching it in the morning, the memory of the scent even more precious than the reality lived, to paraphrase Henry Miller and his sexy Tropic of Cancer. The inclusion of blackcurrant buds adds a touch of of naughtiness, buttressed by honey and ambrette seeds, two essences that speak in intimate, hushed tones of lust and shared moments. A floral exalted into an animalic that can still behave, meowing its yearning. The slight hint of a dark chocolate edge presents itself throughout, something that puzzled me, as I suspected patchouli in minute amounts. Annette confirmed that indeed it is the green leaves of this exotic bush that mollify the floral notes and extend them. Paired with the classic vanilla-sandalwood-tonka accord, the base of Narcissus Poeticus is veering into the comforting.
The version I have is ultra-smooth pure parfum (the new and improved version 2010, not her older composition) and the lasting power for an all-naturals fragrance is quite satisfactory, although don't expect it to outlast a spring day's welcome.

Notes for Narcissus Poeticus by Annette Neuffer:
Head: Bergamot, Clementine, Tunisian Neroli, Violet Leaf, Galbanum
Heart: French Narcissus Absolute, Tunisian Orange Flower Absolute, Indian Tuberose, Egyptian Jasmine*, Bulgarian Rose Otto*
Base: Vanilla Absolute*, Mysore Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vegetal Musk

*certified organic, organically grown

Narcissus Poeticus by Annette Neuffer is only available through her site, Opulentals at NaturParfum.net
For our readers, curious to experience this scent in pure parfum, a small decant will be given away to a lucky reader. Enter a comment and you're included in the draw Draw is now closed..

Related reading: Avicenna by Annette Neuffer

Painting The Loss of Virginity (or Spring Awakening) by Paul Gauguin via wikimedia commons. Pic of narcissi via ruhr-uni-bochum.de.
In the interests of full disclosure I originally got to test the perfume through the perfumer herself.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Bancha: new fragrance

Niche perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has expertly crafted a brand new and very special ayurvedic scent elemental to the season which opens up, spring, called Bancha.

In alignment with nature, Bancha hopes to ease the wearer through transitional months, as signs of vitality and fresh starts begin to resurface all around. Memories of winter’s coldness quietly fold into warm breezes as the renewed element of invincibility overtakes the mind and senses. Bancha’s earthy-green notes are inspired by the fresh tones of the traditional Japanese tea of the same name and comprised of essences used in traditional ayrudedic medicine, to ensure complete wellness through simple scent meditation.

Charismatic and refreshing, the bold citrus top notes of Bancha intertwine with a base of earthy, green aromas for a crisp, lively fragrance that will revive the senses and restore harmony. The unisex scent welcomes spring’s fresh start…

Top Notes: Green Mandarin, Lime Peel, Mint, Yuzu
Middle Notes: Holy Basil, Centifolia Rose, Sambac Jasmine, Pine Needle
Base Notes: Australian Sandalwood, Himalayan Cedarwood

With heady green undertones, the sweet notes of this fragrance create a wholly balanced sense of well-being and reinforce holistic healing. Bancha will be available in early 2010.

Bancha is available in:
Parfum - 5 ml Antique Presentation Extract / $80.00
Eau de Parfum - 1oz EDP Spray / $70.00; Mini Dram Bottle / $18.00.

Original info via press release.
Awakening Spring, a painting by Luc-Olivier Merson.

Madonna Launches Celebrity Fragrance

Finally, did I hear you ask? For years perfume enthusiasts have wondered how it is possible that even Z-list "celebrities" have their own juice out while Madonna, an affirmed perfume lover (as per our celebrity list) hasn't. Well, not anymore!

"The first fragrance from Madonna may not be what you'd expect. Merchandising company Signature Networks has announced a deal with the star that could see the introduction of a fragrance based on her English Roses book for children" (according to Goliath Business News)
Of course it was as far back as 2005 that Hello Magazine had this blurb out: "According to British newspaper The Sun, she's planning on launching an eponymous fragrance this Christmas in a deal reportedly worth £5 million". And in 2007 the rumours had already gained a significant amount of analysis behind them, citing Madonna's meeting with Firmenich executives, as per Théo Spilka. What transpires at any rate is that Madonna did have the plan in the works for about a decade.

The question by now was whether such a fragrance would actually sell well, taking into consideration Madonna has the bulk of her career behind her: Neil Katz, CEO of Parlux Fragrances, which markets the Paris Hilton scent, says, "Years ago, she could sell fragrance. But I don't know if at this point in her career, she still has that strong a following. I don't know." "She has most of her career behind her," Bousquet-Chavanne notes, but "she has a universality to her and a timelessness." Judging by her 1979 nudes inspiring the visuals for unrelated fragrance, well...
What is news is that perhaps this venture will market not the adults who grew up with her but the pre-teens, aged 6-14, who are the audience for her books and their parents who buy them. The news is actually even more complicated, as it will be the culmination of a wider project which involves a clothes and accessories brand. According to Happi.com: "MG Icon, the newly formed joint venture between Madonna and Iconix Brand Group, has announced its first direct-to-retail license agreement with Macy's, Inc. for Material Girl, a new fashion line, which will eventually include beauty products. Inspired and designed in collaboration with Madonna and her daughter Lourdes, the Material Girl junior collection will launch exclusively in approximately 200 Macy's stores and online in August. It will feature footwear, handbags and jewelry priced between $12.00-$40.00. According to MG Icon, future expansion plans call for Material Girl to be active in the beauty sector, with a fragrance bowing in 2011." Could it be called Candy Perfume Girl?

EDIT TO ADD: Nope, Candy Perfume Girl it ain't. Read more on Madonna's "Truth or Dare" on our updated article.


pics via ghollywoodgossip.com

"You could smell him coming a mile off"

"When Diddy hit Blighty for an extraordinary seven-hour booze bender" begins the article on the Mirror.co.uk which talks about how Puff Diddy played the diva (deus?) game the other night in London and stayed awake not to miss anything. But what's more impressive is how he had perfume henchmen spraying his "Unforgiven" fragrance all around, so people could smell him coming a mile off, according to one attendee "but you could hardly see him under all that mist from the perfume". Argh, argh....
"The megastar rapper transformed into Diva Diddy and was followed around by personal perfume sprayers who squirted his Sean John fragrance every 20 minutes. But clubbers were choking with laughter at one of the exclusive bars graced by the 40-year-old, when the DJ who was spinning his tracks started gagging after too much scent came his way. But not to worry, Diddy had someone acting as a walking coathanger there to waft it away"

The Plaza NYC introduces fragrance collection

You know there's something in perfume-as-the-new-It when hotels are launching their own fragrance lines...Costes was in the vanguard; now The Plaza is trodding in their footsteps with what seems like a lifestyle frag line.
The Plaza (www.ThePlaza.com), New York ’s iconic hotel, recently debuted a signature fragrance collection, fittingly titled The Plaza. The collection includes an eau de parfum, a candle, and soap (fittingly these are all exclusively sold at The Plaza Beauty at The Shops at The Plaza). There are plans to introduce additional exclusive scents to the hotel’s fragrance collection later this year.
The fragrance was created exclusively for The Plaza by one of the world’s "most celebrated perfumeries, Krigler, a 5th generation fragrance house" using "exceptional ingredients from around the world". The Plaza fragrance has top notes of bergamot, grapefruit, verbena heart, Texan cedar, oud, and iris, delicately balanced with undertones of amber, precious wood, and leather. The result they tell us is "an elegant bouquet that evokes the very essence of the landmark hotel – classic, timeless and romantic".
“We looked to The Plaza’s rich history situated on Central Park and Fifth Avenue to seek inspiration,” said Kristin Franzese, Executive Vice President, Retail. “The Plaza fragrance captures a moment in time. We wanted to create a modern scent that appeals to women who share the same dreams and aspirations inspired by the romance and classicism of one of New York ’s most iconic and glamorous destinations.”

New face for Cerruti 1881 for Men

The emblematic for the house of Cerruti fragrance Cerruti 1881 for Men (the date denoting the founding of the house of Cerruti) is set for a new advertising campaign starting June 2010 sponsored by the licencee Coty with a new, untarnished face that has never before been associated with beauty or perfumes: Marc Lavoine. The French singer and actor was established in 1985 when his pop sensation "Elle a les yeux revolver" (i.e. She has killer eyes) with its Far East instrumental passages made it to the Top 4 of the French charts ~staying in the top 10 for 13 weeks~ and thus catapulting his career. The pulling traits that got him chosen? "His allure, his gaze and his voice which lend him an undeniable magnetism; an accompished and authentic man". (Quote according to the International senior vice president of marketing of the European licences of Coty Prestige). Marc is reportedly flattered to be participating, fronting such a masculine standby from 1990. Marc has aged in an appealing way, foregoing the too cute hair of the 80s, so who's to argue?

May I just ask whether this is a return to more traditional masculine prototypes, away from the metrosexual images of recent? Could this be -coupled with Dior's decision to utilize Alain Delon's classic 60s photo for Eau Sauvage- a new welcome trend? I'm crossing my fingers.



Photo collage of Marc Lavoine with Cerruti cologne bottle by Perfumeshrine

Marc Jacobs Splash Apple, Pomegranate, Biscotti: new fragrances

THE MARC JACOBS 2010 SPLASH COLLECTION announces itself with the motto "Indulge in an array of macaroons at a patisserie on a sweet summer’s day..." Yup, their popular Splash collection in the homonguous glass bottles with the simple labels for -ahem- splashing all over are back and this time with culinary themes running through them. Don't knock them off-hand, remember when we really liked their light Winter Amber back in the day?

Marc Jacobs introduces three new limited edition Splash Scents this spring in APPLE, POMEGRANATE, and BISCOTTI , inspired by the decadent indulgences of a Paris Patisserie. (Duh! I suppose saying you're inspired by a Stockholm or Belgrade patiserrie doesn't quite cut it with fragoholics, eh? Anyway...)

MARC JACOBS APPLE
Deliciously fruity, apple is aromatic and energizing, built around a green apple impression full of freshness. Developed by Yann Vasnier of Givaudan, tart yet refreshing apple juice opens with juicy apple, lemon and grapefruit. The unexpected surprise of rosemary, jasmin and soft stellata magnolia playfully join in. At last, warm driftwood, coriander and cardamom gently delight. The crisp green tint reflects summer's breezy, garden-fresh color palette.

*Fragrance house: Givaudan
*Perfumer: Yann Vasnier

MARC JACOBS POMEGRANATE
Inspired by the sparkling radiance of this fruit of myth pomegranate exudes an inviting balance of elegance and brightness.
Created by Perfumer Patty Hidalgo of Fragrance Resources, the fruity floral fragrance invigorates with an blend of mandarin flowers, bergamot, and lemon chiffon, rhubarb and violet mix with uplifting pomegranate. The dry down is a sugared musk with a blend of vanilla, and amber.
The corresponding pink tint is a hint to the fruit.

*Fragrance house: Fragrance Resources
*Perfumer: Patty Hidalgo

MARC JACOBS BISCOTTI
Savory aroma and a touch of citrus for the most gourmand of the lot of these limited editions. Crisp yet also comforting and refreshing.
Developed by Richard Herpin of Firmenich, this citrus floral treat opens with the freesia, bergamont and orange flower, the heart of pistachio blossom imparts a sweet richness while creamy and soft vanilla add balance and a smooth softness.
The warm golden tint is reminiscent of a crisp biscotto.

*Fragrance house: Firmenich
*Perfumer: Richard Herpin

MARC JACOBS SPLASH SUMMER 2010 COLLECTION availability:
Marc Jacobs Apple, Marc Jacobs Pomegranare and Marc Jacobs Biscotti are available in 300ML/10.0 FL. OZ. for $68.00 from March 2010 at fine department stores (including Saks Fifth Avenue, Sephora, Bloomingdale's, Lord & Taylor, Macy's, and Nordstrom) and MARC JACOBS Boutiques while supplies last.

info & pics via press release