Amouage Library Collection Opus V: fragrance review

People have been complaining about the Library Collection in Amouage comparing it to the other symphonic pieces in the house's portfolio and finding the fragrances (Opus I, II, III and IV) leaner and sparser; ultimately non as satisfying. Beside a full Wagnerian orchestra playing a Gesamtkunstwerk, like Gold or Jubilation 25, anyone would be deemed lacking. But further testing of the opera in the Library Collection confirms a theory I had that this is the "niche" sub-brand within the house (which is already niche enough), focusing on specific raw materials or accords and highlighting specific ideas which are themselves treated in a less complex, less dense manner.

They resemble études, rather than orchestral pieces: Indeed Opus I is a study in bigarade and what it does to lush florals. Opus II is a classic (and therefore somewhat predictable) spicy incense. Opus III is a violet étude, exploring both the confectionary aspects and the greener, leafy facets. I can't say I was impressed enough with Opus IV to retain a vivid impression. Opus V however is another one which investigates in more detail the various aspects of one material: iris/orris this time.

If I were to characterise Opus V, I would say it is a woody floral built on the facets of iris with a coda on agarwood. I can't stress enough that if you are to like Opus V, you have to be simpatico to iris, that strange rhizome note that can smell delicately of upturned earth, dusty old papers, boiled carrots and face powder.
Iris fragrances as compositions, run the gamut: from almost non-existent iris wrapped in a woody embrace with mastic accents, such as in Infusion d'Iris by Prada; to true irises taking on funereal melancholy like Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens; to surprising, astounding irises which pair the grey note of iris to the bright note of peach as in legendary Iris Gris by Fath; to calorific, chocolate-laced irises such as Iris Ganache by Guerlain or almond-laced ones such as Iris by Hilde Soliani. Not to mention other fragrances which although not pertaining to be a stand-alone iris, they feature copious amounts of it nevertheless, case of Chanel No.19 or Heure Exquise in point. In short, there's something for anyone in the marketand every niche company has their own. Why? Because "orris butter", the concentrated iris rhizome produced the traditional way, macerated for a long time, three years at least, but modern procedures have cut down that interval in the production, resulting in only three-months maceration time.

Opus V by Amouage opens on a lightly metallic, almost boozy note of silvery iris. It feels like sipping gin & tonic under a crepuscular sky with the uncertain temperatures of an April evening. Not particularly dry nor sweetened by other notes, it stages the scene for its expressive range in the next stage. Soon perfumer Jacques Cavallier flanks the composition with woodier notes, subtle, only slightly bitter (agarwood is mentioned, but I suspect some cedar and Iso-E Super as well), with underpinnings of suede, a soft mantle over delicate shoulders. Although the introduction wasn't sweet, as time passes a small subfacet of sweetness emerges, very mollified, without powdery aspects, just to annul the funereal aspects of iris. Indeed anyone who has been scared off by Iris Silver Mist will find a tamer, more friendly iris in Opus V and one which projects at a lower scale. The progression is seamless and feels natural, without the classical pyramidal structure. The lasting power is satisfactory, although the sillage is much lower than many of the other Amouage fragrances which announce their presence in no uncertain terms. If you were waiting for a typical Amouage, you might be advised to look in the main line of the house, because you won't find it here. Opus V is rather intimate and should be enjoyed in moments of a certain introspection or close quarters at the very least for it to highlight its best qualities.
Even though I find it perfectly pleasing, the inclusion of an iris composition in the line seems rather a compulsive move and for that it leaves me a little apprehensive.

Notes for Amouage Opus V:
Top: Orris absolute, rum
Heart: Orris concrete, rose, jasmine
Base: agarwood, civet, dry wood accord

Opus V will be available for purchase through Amouage and their respective boutiques, as well as online retailers which carry the brand. Amouage have uploaded a very conceptual short film on their site concerning the Library collection (lovely sight). Catch it on the Amouage site.

One deluxe sample sprayer will be given to a lucky reader. Please state in the comments if you like Amouage fragrances, or not, and why. Draw is open till Sunday 27th midnight.

Paining Black Iris by Georgia O'Keefe, 1906.
Disclosure: I was sent an advance sample mini from the company for reviewing purposes.

Exclusive announcement: Amouage Opus V, new fragrance

We are delighted to be privy to the latest Amouage fragrance, the 5th installment in the Library Collection, details on which we secured exclusively for our readers' sake. Without further ado, the newly launched Opus V of Amouage's Library Collection explores the transformative journey of conventional media of communication and knowledge through the coalescing power of the internet; navigating a world that has changed radically and forever.

A self-professed fanatic, Amouage Creative Director Christopher Chong explains:

“Social media have liberated and empowered us to disclose and share thoughts and information instantaneously, bridging cultures and allowing knowledge to spread across all boarders. It is a powerful communications tool that today has become the norm for self expression.”

In keeping with the Collection’s spirit, Chong defied all rules and followed pure intuition to create a fragrance that provides a different interpretation of the popular by deconstructing traditional perceptions. This is how the scent is officially described: "This floral and woody neoclassical masterpiece is arresting, paying tribute to haute parfumerie while still remaining germane to modern day living. The raw and classical beauty of Orris and the seductive resonance of Agarwood strike a perfect balance that allows each to manifest symphonically in a trance-like aura while the juxtaposition of Rum and Rose in the top and heart notes expresses many nuances; fragmented yet unremitting in an ingenious composition. The fragrance is rounded off with an opulent leathery and woody base". Star perfumer Jacques Cavallier is behind this composition, in collaboration with artistic director Crishopher Chong.

The Library Collection now includes Opus I, II, III, IV and V. It was inspired by the knowledge and experience drawn from the art of living, while it unfolds a contemporary face to the House of Amouage and at the same time preserving the elegance and effortless classicism synonymous with the brand. In defining the art of living in today's digital age, Chong refers to the inspiring words of Jacques Derrida, the father of postmodernism, "If this work seems so threatening, this is because it isn't simply eccentric or strange, but competent, rigorously argued, and carrying conviction.”

Opus V retails for £195 or US$325
STOCKISTS
In the UK
WWW.AMOUAGE.COM
HARRODS
SELFRIDGES
AMOUAGE FLAGSHIP - 14 LOWNDES ST, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON
In the USA:
Bergdorf Goodman, Luckyscent, Aedes de Venustas, MiN Crosby

Amouage Opus IV (Library Collection): new fragrance

This December, the House of Amouage is uniting the world against AIDS with the global release of Opus IV from its Library Collection. The latest inspiring creation was especially crafted to instill knowledge and empowerment in efforts to promote HIV / AIDS awareness by Creative Director Christopher Chong, who worked assiduously with renowned perfumers in Grasse.

“Our fragrances have always centered on delivering a distinct and compelling message, not just the creation of artistic and beautiful scents,” expressed Chong. “With the startling number of new HIV infection cases reported globally each year, education remains a powerful and paramount instrument to prevent the spread of HIV and grant universal access to HIV prevention, treatment, care and support services. Opus IV is our contribution to raising awareness on this growing epidemic across all corners of the globe, which today is one of the world’s most pressing public health matters.”
Chong added that Amouage is exceptionally proud to donate fifty percent of the worldwide profits from Opus IV to the National HIV/AIDS Prevention and Control Program (NAP) in Oman, an initiative supported by the Ministry of Health, World Health Organisation, United Nations Children’s Fund and United Nations Population Fund.

Opus IV opens with luminous and invigorating notes of Lemon, Mandarin and Grapefruit with a warm spicy mantle of Coriander Oil that awakens the senses. The heart is characterized by the sharp and exotic Elemi Oil, Cardamon and Cumin that pervades to a sweet blend of Rose Berries, Rose and vibrant Violet Leaves. This inventive fragrance finishes with woody and smoky undertones of Labdanum, Frankincense and Musk. The perfumer is Jacques Fior (of Etro fame) who has closely collaborated with Christopher Chong.
The Library Collection which now includes Opus I, II, III and IV, is a celebration of integrity, creativity and virtuosity. Inspired by the knowledge and experience drawn from the art of living, the Collection unfolds a contemporary face to Amouage while preserving the elegance and effortless classicism synonymous with the brand.

In the USA, Opus IV will be available at Bergdorf Goodman and MiN Crosby. In London, at the Amouage flagship at 14 Lowndes St, Harrods and Selfridges. Opus IV retails for US$325 3.4 oz

Amouage "Library Collection" Opus I, II, III: exclusive fragrance previews

Few niche fragrance lines today are as devoted to opulence as the Omani firm of Amouage founded in 1983. Rich, multi-nuanced baroque tapestries of scent, so textured you feel like you can touch them, Amouage perfumes remind us of how perfumery used to be before restrictions and leaning-tricks gave perfumery its contemporary meagre look. The three upcoming additions Opus I, Opus II and Opus III in the "Library Collection" (which we announced the other day) do not disappoint.


It is with great pleasure that I introduce them to you, writing down my impressions as I test them again and again on my skin these past few days. A few of you might get to try them out in the special preview scheduled in a couple of days (details at the bottom), the rest are urged to seek them out later on when the launch officially. They're true to form and one among them is truly surprising.


Artistic direction is everything when it comes to positioning a perfume brand: Remember Christian Astuguevieille for Comme des Garçons, Lutens for Shiseido and his own eponymous line etc. Likewise, the multi-faceted ~opera, fashion and semiotics among his studies~creative director Christopher Chong has helped Amouage gain the credibility which niche lines are (sometimes only) dreaming of: unflagging consistency, luxury, specific vision, collaboration with top perfumers. His musical background I guess is the reason why the three new Opera (or musically referenced, Opi) were thus baptized. The library standing as the capsule for keeping the creative process contained in tangible, approachable form.

Initially I was a bit sceptical when I heard of a new Collection, especially with arithmetical numbering: These days niche frag "collections" are a dime a dozen and for some weird reason everyone wants to bring out one, semi-establishing themselves as authors of a body of work at the drop of a hat. But in the case of Amouage there is already a line-up of impressive creations, thus crossing effectively that motive off the list. Still, three fragrances in one go seem like one or two would overshadow the rest. But if the Arabian-inspired house has proven anything to us, it's that more is sometimes more, after all! There is nothing minimalistic about Amouage and the new triptych will find its dedicated fans as well, walking the fine line between wearability and artistry successfully.

• Opus I is the most surprising new Amouage in the Library Collection, not from a structural point of view but one of juxtaposing two antithetical elements which miraculously fuse into one another in a case of reverse engineering. Although officially classed as a chypre, Opus I feels like a lush floral with a jarring, really great bitter bigarade top note (like traditional bitter citrus rind confit, almost Roudnitska drool-worthy) which contrasts with tuberose and dominant ylang ylang; both flowers treated into a mentholated ribbon flowing in the wind underneath a plummy accord which is round, fleshy, pudding-rich. The bitterness of bigarade and the tarry notes offsets the salicylates of the flowers, while the sweet elements (tonka, plum accord) brings out the nectarous qualities. The most pyramidal of the three, where there is a clear and distinct progression from top to heart and then slowly segueing into base.

• Opus II promised to be evocative of "old books, dark wooden shelves and antique leather armchairs" and only because I already knew that from the announcement of the new line, I purposely jumpled the samples around, as if.... Proclivities are almost hard-wired and both nature & nurture seems to conspire making me always gravitate towards such compositions. If I were to sum it up I would proclaim Opus II a spicy incense fragrance and in that field it plays seamlessly. The core of frankincense reveals a zesty freshness the way the natural resin tears have a lemony, orange-y freshness as they smoke serenely on the censer. Contrary to Opus I, which starts refreshingly bitter and turns sweeter and lush, Opus II goes for the reverse: A warm, soothing opening of rosy spice and absinth liquer (see our Series) becomes cooler and more celebral as the time passes; while the final warm sweetish remnants on skin project at a low hum like bass heard from a distance. Unquestionably my favourite, it reflects what Christopher had said: "The Amouage customer is an international traveler who has picked up antiques and items of furniture while travelling around the world and has built a home reflecting a global approach to design, but housed within an Omani-inspired space."

• Opus III is built around violets, clearly detectable from the very start, taking on nuances of both candied petals and greener, leafier verdancy with a sage-like tone. The aromatic top has a quirky nuance, with pungent, bracken and honeyed tonalities, turbidity set against a woody base. Even though violets are usually thought of as feminine and retro-glamorous, reminiscent of makeup paraphernalia, here they're treated in both directions of sweet and mainly green, rendering the finished scent suitable for both sexes. Opus III feels linear, united into one ultra-complex chord which projects with unwavering assurance.

All three fragrances in the Library Collection bear the sign of Frankincense, the emblem of the luxurious fragrance line, sensed in various degrees and they all smell full and rich, the way we're used to from the Sultanate of Oman.

The three scents in the Amouage Library Collection are extremely lasting on skin (a full 12 hours and they were still going strong!) and leaving a delicious trail behind without becoming intruding or cloying. Please refer to this post for the exact notes of each.

A sneak preview of the "Library Collection" Opus I, Opus II and Opus III will be taking place at Aedes de Venustas, 9 Christopher Street, New York on Thursday, July 1st, 2010 from 5-8pm and cocktails will be served. It's worth the trip if you're near. The sampler set is endearing, small sprayers encased in pearl white silk-lined matchboxes.

All photos by Elena Vosnaki. Click to enlarge.
Painting of The Queen's Library at St.James's Palace, from The History of the Royal Residences, engraved by Richard Reeve, by William Henry Pyne.
In the interests of full disclosure I was sent 3 preview samples by the company.

Amouage Library Collection: new fragrances

Amouage, the Omani line which has established itself as the purveyor of true luxury in fragrances with its precious essences and unbridled budgeting, comes out with a new trio of fragrances, called Amouage Library. The three scents encompass different families and were devised by artistic directot Christopher Chong, each given a code, an opus number reflecting their status as a completed work within a greater collection.

According to the press release:

"OPUS I. A glorious Chypre fragrance, built around a warm, floral heart of Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the Valley and Tuberose . Top notes of Bigarade, Plumm and Cardamom add spice and individuality, whilst woody base notes of Guaiac, Cedar and Sandalwood, along with Tonka Bean, Vetiver and the House's signature note of Frankincense provide an epic and bold closing chapter. The narrative, olfactory
evolution of this fragrance was inspired by the start of a pilgrimage in search of knowledge.

OPUS II. A majestic Fougère inspired by the heady and evocative fragrances of old books, dark wooden shelves and antique leather armchairs . Opus II opens with a rare and magical combination of Pepper , Pink Bay, Absinth and La vender in the top
notes. These notes unfurl to reveal a hear t of Jasmine, Rose, Cinnamon and Cardamom. The base of Cedarwood, Amber, Frankincense and Patchouli conclude the fragrance with a soft , smoky, masculinity that contrast beautifully with the floral heart notes .

OPUS III was inspired by the art and science of the creative process, from the darkest moments of frustration, to the brightness of enlightenment and discovery.
This radiant Floral Orie ntal fragrance is built around daring heart notes of Violet,
Jasmine , Orange Blossom and Ylang -Ylang. These are introduced perfectly by top
notes of Carnation, Broom, Mimosa, Nutmeg and Thyme . The vibrancy of the
fragrance is anchored by earthy notes of Ambrette Seed, Papyrus , Benzoin , Frankincense and a trilogy of woods in the base".

Read full reviews of each of the scents on this article.

All three fragrances are available in 100ml for 195 BGP each.
The Library Collection will be available at Selfridges, Harrods and Fortnum & Mason as well as leading department stores and boutiques globally. The collection will also be available at Amouage’s soon to open flagship store in London’s Knightsbridge - 14 Lowndes St.