Thierry Mugler Les Parfums de Cuir (The Leather Collection): new fragrance editions

In celebration of the 20th anniversary of French fashion and fragrance house Thierry Mugler, The Clarins Fragrance Group has added a new twist to the brand's classic fragrances with the release of The Fragrances of Leather collection.

The new line-up includes vamped up, leather-ied in fragrance terms (if you're not sure what these are, look it up in our Leather Fragrances directory) special editions in the following best-selling fragrances: Angel (a gourmand with added notes of iris and apricot), A*men (uniting patchouli with leather), Alien (with added amber and dried fruits) and Womanity (highlighting the existing labdanum into a protagonist in the new formula). Leather is a fragrance note that is making a come-back (about time!) as witnessed by the launch of Bottega Veneta eau de parfum (and probably Louis Vuitton  perfume next), catapulted by the niche sector into the mainstream.

 The launch of the new Mugler fragrance editions is set out for October 2012 with a new design for the feminine bottles and the familiar black one for the masculine A*men in ambery juice shades.


[news source]

"Fragrance reviews are silly. Fragrance marketing is even sillier."

Thus pronounces styleite.com and proposes to do some crowdsourcing on how things smell to offer an alternative viewpoint on some of our favorite fragrances.

Intriguing one to appear? Coromandel by Chanel Les exclusifs (and check on my comparison link with some other similar scents).
 Do drop by the styleite site to read and witness your jaw drop on the floor in disbelief (Descriptions range from the incomprehensible “[smells] Like teenage girl mall perfume. Or country club bathrooms” to the equally weird “It’s interesting. It’s almost a little candy-like. But also has some soapiness too. Kinda fruity.”)

Goes to show you: People (layman folks for our purposes, not die hard parfumistas) interpret objective effects in completely subjective ways. It all depends on context and association, I guess.
What do you think?

Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme and Vetiver Fatal: new fragrances

Atelier Cologne is proposing two new fragrances for their fans, jumping on the oud bandwagon in the process as well.

Rose Anonyme~ “She turned the dial until the safe opened, revealing the diamond. She had stolen jewels before, but none compared with this one. She left a single rose and the scent of her perfume in its place for him to find. In a moment she’d be halfway around the world and he would be in pursuit. The chase began again…” With notes of bergamot, ginger, rose, incense, velvet oud accord, patchouli, papyrus and benzoin.
Vétiver Fatal~ “He was alerted immediately and called on the case, another diamond stolen mysteriously. The moment he opened the dossier, a smile sparked in his deep eyes as he recognized her signature mark. He took one of his passports, burned the file and began the pursuit. This time she wouldn’t get away…” With notes of bergamot, lemon, bigarade, orange blossom, violet leaves, black plum, vetiver, cedar and dark oud accord.
Rose Anonyme is a spicy fresh gourmand-oriental rose.
Vetiver Fatale is a full-bodied and plush, woody aromatic vetiver fragrance.

Both fragrances are aimed at both men and women, developed by perfumer Jerome Epinette, available in 200ml and 30ml bottles at Luckyscent and Beautyhabit.

Ramon Monegal Barcelona: Perfumes to Lose One Heart's Into

It is not usual that I direct readers to other venues where my writing has appeared; Perfume Shrine readers come to the Shrine for what the Shrine offers here on its own terms. Yet I can't resist sharing with you the presentation I wrote for Fragrantica on this newly launching to the USA perfume house hailing from Barcelona, Spain.

I said newly launching because Ramon Monegal isn't technically a new house: the tradition and the perfumer go back a long while, to the historic Spanish of Myrurgia actually.
Please find the the Ramon Monegal perfumes first impressions  on this link and rest assured I will post more detailed reviews very very soon...

I haven't been this excited about discovering a new niche fragrance line since stumbling upon Maria Candida Gentile perfumes!

Guerlain: Who Am I?

A teaser film by Guerlain perfumes on the new September 2012 launch.

"Devinez qui je suis" or in English, guess who I am.

Watch the clip on this link.

Of course we're safe to assume it involves an iteration of La Petite Robe Noire.

Lancome La Vie Est Belle: fragrance review

The upcoming Lancome fragrance, La Vie Est Belle (i.e. Life is Beautiful), is exactly the kind of perfume we dedicated perfumephiles love to kvetch about without any grave reason, come to think of it: It won't knock your Spanx off, sure; it's a "pretty" smell for pretty ladies (as evidenced by the face fronted it, the original Pretty Woman) but it's not a genuinely bad release all the same, just derivative. It suffers from the major problem of mainstream perfumery: a sense of sameness, a sort of deja vu, when what we yearn for is earth-shattering uniqueness, Heathcliff boldness and passion, springboards for heated discussion with a slice of brie in one hand and a good goblet of Laphroaig on the other while Mahler's 3rd blasts out of the speakers.
If you're that sort of person you won't be wowed by La Vie Est Belle. If on the other hand you just seek a wearable, non completely teeny-bopper fruity scent to get you through the day (and night) then the newest Lancome release isn't the worst to come out on counters for a while; nor is it the best, worse luck...

To cut a long story short: La Vie Est Belle an iris "gourmand" with patchouli. Just how many irises, gourmands and patchoulis are there on the market currently? Do I hear you say hundreds? I thought so! And yet, this fragrance is pretty well-executed within the genre, if sweet and over-tenacious. It's really a floriental for the 30-50 age group of women who want something contemporary that wouldn't have their teeth fall off at the same time. Lancôme after all has never ditched their more "mature" outlook (Tresor Midnight Rose non withstanding) and the accompanying image the way Dior has, as I was discussing with one of my online friends. In that context, the fragrance succeeds in its intended demographic, all caveat emptors in place.

This gourmand yet rather delicate composition was developed by famous perfumers Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo, all known for their talent and technical skill. The final formula is claimed to be the result achieved after 3 years of testing and 5000 versions including precious ingredients (Iris Pallida concrete, Jasmine sambac absolute, orange blossom absolute, and patchouli essence; we can take this with a grain of salt or not). When you're hearing things like that, you know you have reason to get worried.
Iris is supposedly the key ingredient of the perfume, surrounded by orange blossoms and jasmine in the heart. The iris isn't really perceptible as such to my nose, though, I have to say: that carrot-rooty often metallic note we associate with iris fragrances is very subtle and floats in the background as a murmur rather than a clear command. The composition’s opening provides fruity flavors of black currant and pear, those can be felt, while the base is warm, gourmand and powdery due to almond-like accords of tonka bean (high in coumarin), praline (shades of Angel, especially coupled with the next two ingredients), patchouli and vanilla.

The recognizable reference in La Vie Est Belle comprise a hint of Delices de Cartier (instead of cherry, the fruity nuance is orange-toned but in a clean, fresh and pleasant way) and Flowerbomb's fruity-patchouli sweetness rising from the core. It's somehow airier, like a gourmand done in devore velvet rather than heavy damask. It also vaguely reminds me of Hanae Mori #4. Of course all these facts point to the theory that if you own any of the above, there's not much point in owing La Vie est Belle as well. That's for you and your Visa to decide.

The lasting power and projection of La Vie Est Belle, available as eau de Parfum, are both very very good, a technically able fragrance, and though I wouldn't be too displeased to be in the company of the woman wearing it, I wouldn't buy a full bottle for myself all the same.

La Vie Est Belle is the newest Lancome fragrance, available on the market from autumn 2012 in major department stores. The concept of this fragrance is centered on real beauty in small things, freedom from conventions and the wisdom to go after one's heart.
The (beautiful) flacon is a redesigned version of a Lancome bottle from 1949 from the brand's archives. Actress Julia Roberts is the face of the campaign, shot by director Tarsem Singh.

NB: I shared a sample with a friend who works in the press and got a preview herself.