Ιt was too good to pass up. In a single instant the poignant image of Eastern Europeans waiting in line immersed in furs and hard leather boots for their daily quota, as well as that of the solitary peddlers with hair pins on hand, waiting for hours on end at the edges of the market. Ironic timing now that Serge Lutens is opening a luxury niche fragrances boutique in Moscow!
“HAMMER AND SICKLE” ENGRAVED BOTTLE (L’EAU FROIDE)
“A bottle named Cold War, which we hope, in communist parts, will bring a smile to the face of capitalism.”
- Serge Lutens
For information: sprs@shiseido.fr
Le Palais Royal - Serge Lutens
142 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 49 27 09 09
Monday through Saturday, from 10 AM to 7 PM.
Not unfittingly I had waited till I had written my articles on myrrh resin before writing my full perfume review of the latest Annick Goutal1001 Ouds fragrance in the Les Absolus range. That's because rather than being a fully fledged oud/aoudh fragrance this oriental elixir features myrrh in a key player position.
photo Vitor Schietti
The trend for oudh has been going strong and every brand has embraced the innovations of the fragrance industry. Some say this particular trend is an unpardonable sin (and indeed only Chanel seems impervious to the flummox as of this moment) so an oud-centric perfume from Annick Goutal did not spell optimism in my heart of hearts. Especially as the combination of oudh with rose has been the hallmark of tried and tested combinations surgically transplanted from Middle Eastern perfumery -where they thrive in local blends- and then watered down for western usage.
Nevertheless 1001 Ouds in Les Absolus d'Annick Goutal managed to not fulfill the desire for apostasy that ran in the back of my mind. Two key ingredients which are featured in a clever way by perfumer composer Isabel Doyen are responsible for the rekindled interest.
Myrrh resin, bittersweet and poignant, is restraining the stomping boots of the oudh note. Thankfully as most contemporary oudh compositions, lacking the complexity of a traditional oudh perfume essence, run the risk of coming across as rather aggressive (the dreaded Band Aid note) and a little too invasive, like a stranger in leather gear on public transport making intense eye contact out of the blue. The woody effect given by papyrus wood is slightly smoky, the feel of a distant campfire rather than having the barbecue right on the lawn.
Rose phobics or those who do like rose but dread the engulfing tentacles of it when combined with usual suspects sandalwood or oudh in an Arabian setting need not be scared. The rose in 1001 Ouds by Annick Goutal is providing a softened, mellowed bridge between the more challenging ingredients, polishing the corners and smoothening the edges. This well known perfumers' trick works especially well here; one doesn't really discern the rose, only the humming warmth and glow that resembles a copper-toned lipstick on an olive skinned lady.
As might be suspected by the notes 1001 Ouds leans to the shared fragrances side of the spectrum and men and women alike would enjoy it without problems. In fact the creative team at Annick Goutal present the Les Absolus trio as a lovers' shared sensuous experience and they couldn't be closer to the truth. These are warm, soft, enveloping fragrances to share with those you cherish the most.
As with the rest of Les Absolus, beautiful presentation, demanding prices.
Sacred among essences the resin of the Commiphora myrrha tree grows in the solitary desert weeping its fragrant tears for that which could not be. From the wandering girl Myrrha to the practices of embalming and mummification and the anointing of priest king and lover alike, myrrh is among the most fascinating essences in perfumery and I am pleased to be able to offer my readers who had asked about it two articles investigating its mythology origins and the cultural significance it played in western civilization.
These are going to be followed by a third part focusing on perfume reviews of my favorite myrrh-centric fragrances.
And let me grab the opportunity to mention those are both part of my new steady column (une rubrique) on Fragrantica especially for my historical articles, besides any other content I provide on the webzine. You can find them on the collective link 1001 Past Tales.
It looks like contrary to what Humphrey Bogart said we won't always have Paris after all. For a Europhile to the core like myself this is a heavy blow. Alas it tinges my thoughts but I'm sure many will agree.
Please feel free to share your thoughts and current activities/favorites in the comments section just below this post.
Thinking
The At the Moment column is usually a way of distraction via description but this little bit lately is resisting distraction. It's hard to avoid thinking what comes next after the 23/11 terrorist attacks in the heart of Europe. Paris has long seemed like the stronghold of peaceful discource between opposing cultures though I'm sure the banlieux have been having their own share of "civil war" from time to time. It's shocking to hear the news and the escalation involving even more countries. I'm crossing fingers and toes and wish I had as many arms as the goddess Kali to be able to wish the terrors away.
Reading
Perhaps not unjustly my thoughts ran to Virginia Woolf and her Thoughts on Peace in an Air Raid. Just finished Letter to a Young Poet though which had been a long while in waiting. Her essay on poetry is most enjoyable to read and think about. Especially when she intones how poetry (life really) should get out of the autistic self and unto the others. (And yes I do get the irony of saying that just as I'm writing about my own self and what occupies me on this post). Next I'm planning on getting an education on the Marvel classics.
Wearing
We've been having the warmest November I can recollect. A light jacket is plenty and I often find myself removing it at noon! I'm on a steady diet of pashminas over lightweight cotton sweaters and long-sleeved T-shirts with blanket scarves. I do lack an animal printed one (so hot this season) and this one from Asos seems to fit the bill.
I'm aching for some cold though I know many will be thinking of the increased cost in central heating. As it is we have not used central heating yet.
I also need a new evening clutch. This Colette frame clutch by Hobo in shade frost ticks two trend boxes in one: fringe and grey. It also looks roomy enough to hold a wallet and keys plus a cell phone.
Perfuming
I've been wearing neglected Orientals lately (and will be devoting a post to my favorite ones soon).
One of them I will whet your appetite with is Cinema eau de parfum by Yves Saint Laurent. Who would have thought back in 2004 that this mimosa and almond floriental would seem almost austere compared with the tsunami of sweet vanillic things to follow?
Listening
Maybe because of Paris I'm revisiting Barbara. I'm especially touched by this song of hers Sans Bagages.
And I'm leaving you with a Greek song by Cretan musician Yannis Haroulis: Άιντε και Ξέχασα.
(And hey I've forgotten)
A black stone rolled and woke life up and we're escaping from closed windows like the shadows and all we never dared do we throw to the fire to warm up our dreams our hands our hugs.
The problem with the term "charnelle" (carnal in French) for Anglo-speaking audiences persists after the online mocking of Guerlain's analogous fragrances (Les Elixirs Charnels or better known as Carnal Elixirs). Of course one might argue it's hard to beat Poupée (doll in French) by Rochas... Nevertheless don't let that distract you from the creamy goodness of the latest Annick Goutal vanilla fragrance, Vanille Charnelle, part of Les Absolus d'Annick Goutal luxury perfumes trio.
Vanilla fragrances can come in various guises and heaven knows one more vanilla is not what is missing from the market, especially at this point. However the polished touch of perfumer Isabelle Doyen and art director Camille Goutal promises a milk bath preceding a lovers' tryst Popaea (Sabena) style.
The butyric note in Vanille Charnelle is held down by two interesting elements making the fluffy base more playful; one is a peppery note that tingles the sinuses with the anticipation of a session of light spanking, the other a nectarous ylang ylang which brings the floralcy of vanilla into focus. Dark vanillas exhibit boozy, dark, whiskey and rum facets, but Vanille Charnelle is more reminiscent of almonds than of booze and has that goose down feel that white musk has when done right.
For Goutal, who had already offered the moderately priced Vanille Exquise, which many vanilla lovers counted among the ones they love, the decision to offer a disproportionately elevated in the posh stakes vanilla sounds rather odd. But vanilla is a known aphrodisiac, as per pop culture (and who can forget the Guerlain claims to Shalimar being cat nip thanks to its rich, dark, leathery vanilla) and it seems one can't have too many in one line. It also ensures a steady interest at the counter...
The luxurious presentation by Annick Goutal in the Les Absolus line, that opens like the scene of a theatre production to reveal a performance by good actors, merits the asking price more than the innovation of the formula. Still...pas mal du tout.
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