Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde: When Guerlain Looked Towards Brazil (new fragrance)

The fact that Brazil is an emerging market for perfume companies is no big news to readers of this blog.  We have noted the phenomenon for some time, with niche perfumeries taking an interest in the country of Pele, favelas and endless beaches (see Batucada by L'Artisan Parfumeur for instance) as well as more mainstream luxury houses, such as Dior with their Escale sub-line. Now another European house of pedigree, the French Guerlain, joins them with a new fragrance in their light-hearted declination, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria line.

Limon Verde ( limón verde refers to lime and literally translates as "green lemon") is inspired by the refreshing note prominent in the national "drink" of Brazil, the Caipirinha, which routinely includes lime alongside sugar cane liquor and sugar. House perfumer Thierry Wasser married this Caipirinha accord with lime to a tropical green accord, fig and tonka bean for some tenacity in the new Guerlain eau de toilette.

Brazilians are not very far removed from the Mediterranean concept of a refreshing splash as a much needed pick-me-up in the hot throe of a summer spent under an unrelenting sun, where fragrance isn't seen a weapon of seduction as it is seen as a necessary sensual pleasure out of life that pertains to all sexes and all ages. In that spirit Guerlain can't do wrong.

It remains to be seen whether the local market will view it as homage to their "emblematic" lime cocktail note or they will use it as an effortless casual splash to be enjoyed all summer long. If you want to get a taste of what "clicks" for that particular market (which please note places a very high tax on all "western" luxury products and has very little "niche" infiltration so far, you can see the Best Seller perfumes list for Brazil for 2011-2012. )
Usually perfumes "inspired" by specific cultures necessarily bypass some elements to appeal to a wider audience, which is got to be true in the case of Limon Verde as well, seeing as it will come to North American and European markets.

Limon Verde by Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria line is launching internationally in spring 2014.

Esxence: the art perfumery's event for 2014

Like every March in the last 5 years and counting, Esxence: The Scent of Excellence is taking over Milan for the 6th edition of the art perfumery event during which creators, perfumers, distributors, critics and perfume lovers alike will be participating into the biggest exhibition this side of the Atlantic this spring. The event will space itself during 3 days, from March 20th till March 23rd, Thursday to Saturday from 10:30am to 6:30pm and on Sunday from 10:30am till 4:30pm at the Triennale di Milano.

The official site can be accessed here and full list of exhibitors can be seen on this link. Exhibitors interested in participating need to apply using this form, while journalists can download their invitation for attending on this link.

Surely an event not to miss, Esxence will be the meeting place for all the brands who excel at niche perfumery. Catch you there!

The winners of the draw…

…for Barkhane by Teo Cabanel are:

1 large sample for Europe/Canada/rest of the world (i.e. excluding US):
Beatrice88.

1 atomiser containing 1/2oz (US):
Kingpharroh

15 samples (US):
Undina
Tatiana
Colin
CrystesMom
Gail
Holly F.
Stacey Walls
mim
Sandy Vasalos
Laurels
Tomatefarcie
Minette
Zuzu
Caragh from Chelmsford
sandipants


Congratulations everyone! Please send me an email with your shipping data, using Contact or email in Profile, including "Barkhane draw" in the title of your message for my ease, please. And I will take care these reach you soon.

Thanks everyone for the enthusiastic participation and till the next one! (soon)

Patricia de Nicolai: News on Availability and Name Change of Balle de Match

The well known niche brand parfums de Nicolai, working under the aegis of the current president of L'Osmotheque and perfumer par excellence Patricia de Nicolai, has repositioned as discussed previously. In this decision several factors have come in and the effects can be seen and felt in the packaging, brand identity (and "motto") as well as the categorization of fragrances in the portfolio.
In that latter issue, Balle de Match becomes the subject of changes.

via townandcountrymag

The fragrance continues to be produced as an eau de toilette concentration, available in 30ml (36€) αnd 100ml bottles (108€), as is customary for de Nicolai products, but the name changes: from now on, Balle de Match becomes L'Eau de Sport, a cologne for "jeunes sportifs" as claimed on the website. The woody citrus composition, hinging on grapefruit, and an alliance of pink and black pepper, is a refreshing tonic for days when the mood is casual and the style effortless.

Teo Cabanel Barkhane: fragrance review & free perfume draw

There are generally speaking three directions on amber, that perfumery trope which although reminiscent of alembicated elixirs derives in reality from the late 19th century and its advances in chemistry. Roughly, much like human body types, there is the thick-set endomorph, vanillic and zaftig amber, often powdery but a little too snuggly the way a favorite aunt suffocated you as a child when she tried to hug you; there's the linear ectomorph, naturally rail-thin and giving only a hint of an oriental, fit for people who consider sipping a latte as having the equivalent of a dessert orgy only the calories fly off their cage-like backs (Marc Jacobs Amber Splash I'm looking at you); and finally the elusively callipygean mesomorph, its discovery as awe inspiring as the realization of the protagonist in They Live, an amber that's got to be extra-terrestrial, since there's no other explanation for its perfect, almost perverse precision and special abilities.

photo by Francesco Middei for National Geographic via Pinterest (Namibia sand dune)

Some of my favorite ambers belong to that last category, managing the trick via either a generous helping of herbal accents (Ambre Sultan by Lutens is the crowning example) or a devious splattering of incense notes, via frankincense or myrrh (Ambra del Nepal or Angelique Encens are decent examples.)        

Barkhane belongs to this special category, a foudroyant amber perfume both thanks to its transparent treatment of the labdanum (cistus)-vanillin pairing and the bittersweet myrrh resin which illuminates it the way vitraux illuminate a cathedral. From a distance Barkhane suggests repetition, since Alahine (Cabanel's 2007 fragrance) was also a terrific amber. But it is not, since it lacks the rosy floralcy and the woody element, as perfumer Jean-Francois Latty here focused instead on the introduction of a tempered oud note which tilts it into the slightly medicinal, more masculine or unisex territory. There is also a notable spicy component (reportedly built on cumin and curry notes) which melds with the myrrh.

Last but not least: the lasting power is phenomenal for something so well balanced and, yes, at its fighting weight.

Barkhane is the latest fragrance by niche French brand Teo Cabanel, re-introduced recently in the States and repackaged to new heights of luxury under the direction of heiress Caroline Ilacqua. The fragrance's name derives from the naturalist Alexander von Middendorf, who used it to describe "the smooth velvety dunes which gently ripple under powerful desert winds".

I have a self-bought* large sample for one lucky reader in Europe/rest of the world. If you're in the USA, thanks to Hypoluxe Inc.'s generosity, there's the option of one BIG 1/2oz spray for ONE lucky winner and 15 sample vials for 15 more winners. 
Please enter a comment saying your opinion on amber fragrances and if you have a favorite/Kryptonite one and please state whether you're in Europe/USA/rest of the world. 
Draw is open till Thursday midnight, winners to be announced sometime on Friday.
(*The company did send me another one for reviewing purposes)