Le Labo AnOther 13 & Baie Rose 26: fragrance reviews & draw

Never were two fragrances by the same niche line been so contrarily contrasted: Where I expected the pedestrian I got a brilliant surprise and where all signs were siren-calling (the rare, the uber-exclusive!) I was crest-fallen. I'm referring of course to Baie Rose 26 and AnOther 13 by Le Labo, this autumn's newest releases by the hip niche line who provoke, as much as put things up for an interesting discussion on the boundaries of art and marketing.

Baie Rose 26 comes as a welcome surprise in a market inundated with the plethora of pink peppercorns (i.e.baies rose) peeking from ultra-fruity compositions with the requisite patchouli base that makes for modern "young" juice (what's accusingly called a "fruitchouli" ). The initially piquant top note of pink pepper sets the scene for a very diffusive fragrance, which radiates from both blotter and skin, slowly revealing a generous rose heart; like roses half-hidden in an aluminum chest under bullet-proof glass in an Ian Fleming novel.
Perfumer FrankVoelkl, who composed both Musc 25 and Iris 39 previously for Le Labo, tackled pink peppercorns (which naturally have rosy facets) and made them woody-musky with a prolonged drydown full of Ambrox reminiscent of the finish of Mille et Une Roses by Lancôme and Stella by Stella McCartney. There is even a deliciously weird, but oddly very becoming, "vomit note" that reminds me of Karo Karounde, an exotic essence which is used in Pleasures by Lauder. If that makes you queasy, fear not: it's only an impression and a little bit of jarrigness makes for an artistic outcome.
Although Rose 31 is already a best-selling fragrance in the Le Labo portfolio (a spicy cumin-rich rose note which makes for a rose "sweating" from the inside), the perfume enthusiast could find merit to include Baie Rose 26 in their collection all the same. I admit I'm sorely temped!

Baie Rose 26 notes:
Ambrox, Clove, Pepper, Rose, Baie Rose, Musk, Ambrette, Cedar, Aldehyde

Baie Rose 26 by Le Labo is available only in Chicago (it's a "city-exclusive", following Le Labo's annoying but business-savvy ~apparently~ technique of saving some frags for specific cities around the world).

AnOther 13 is the definition of a limited edition: only 500 units are produced globally, in partnership with so-hip-it-hurts AnOther mag in London. This project was born thanks to Sarah of Colette boutique in Paris who initiated the creative collaboration between the Le Labo founders and Jefferson Hack, editor in chief of AnOther Magazine. Jefferson Hack is a renowned British journalist and magazine editor who co-founded Dazed & Confused in the early 90’s and who launched AnOther Magazine in 2001. Perfumer Nathalie Lorson (praised on our pages for her Poivre 23) was called to blend a "dirty musk which your nose will want to go back to the skin that wears it more than you want to". Errr, no, actually; if you put this on skin, you run the risk of having your arm fall off!

Let me explain myself after this provocative statment: AnOther 13 is a monochromatic take on Ambrox and musks (three major musky aromachemicals, Muscenone delta, Ambrettolide and Helvetolide; more on different synthetic musks here) which murmurs disparaging bon mots with vicious intent and which unfortunately has the half-life of plutonium, i.e. you will be scrubbing and scrubbing if you happen not to appreciate that sort of thing.
Ambrox has certainly been toned & honed through several popular fragrances in the last decade (see our article on Ambrox here), but 2010 has seen it being writ large on the marquise, as the prominent star, which is a new twist. Contrary to Juliette has a Gun Not a Perfume, though, AnOther 13 is not solely based on Ambrox but is rather a composite of strong mostly woody notes which project with the force of steel. Helvetolide, a synthetic musk with fruity aspects (apple and pear-like) contributes a note which can be identified as "wet dog", Delta muscenone is reminiscent of real ambrette seed (and could stand for that) while Ambrettolide is strongly musky with a warmer feel. Yet the Le Labo fragrance isn't a "musk" in the traditional sense, nor is it nauseating in the aquatic and eerie mould of Sécretions Magnifiques: The piercing woody-ambery metallic note has something of the tormented Erica Kohut as she stabs herself aimlessly (and certainly non lethally) in lonely despair. A disturbing fragrance, to be sure!

Le Labo AnOther 13 notes:
Ambrox, Salycilate, Muscenone delta, Helvetolide, Ambretteolide, Cetalox

AnOther 13 is available in numbered bottles at Le Labo boutiques and at collaborating partners around the world: Liberty in London, Isetan in Tokyo, Barneys in the US, and Colette in Paris. It comes in one size (100 ml/3.4oz) and is sold at regular Le Labo 100 ml prices (i.e.200$) .

For our readers, a draw!Draw is now closed, thanks for the participation! Create the next frag concept for Le Labo in the comments & enter to win a sample of both exclusive fragrances!

Disclosure: For these reviews, I both paid out of my own pocket for decants for reviewing purposes through splits and was sent (a little later) samples in the mail by the company itself. Funny timing, but a great opportunity to be generous with our readers.
Asia Argento in a provocative photo shoot uploaded by girlsgirlsgirls on Photobucket. Another 13 photo found on Basenotes.

Ormonde Jayne Opens on Sloane Street

Ormonde Jayne celebrates its tenth and most exciting year with today’s launch of the new flagship boutique in world famous Sloane Square, London. The third and newest address of Ormonde Jayne in London is 192 Pavillion Road (site of the old General Trading Company) and like the first boutique in Old Bond Street, it neighbours with Tiffany’s, Cartier & Links of London. Designed by Caulder Moore, the smoked glass & antique gold shagreen walls give the store Ormonde Jayne’s trademark sophisticated decadent look. According to the founder Linda Pilkington, it was waiting to happen because it was so fitting the concept of the firm anyway: “When I first saw the “to lease” sign on Pavillion Road, I knew it would be the perfect location for Ormonde Jayne and I have always loved Sloane Square. Our original business plan was to start looking by the end of 2011, but I operate on instinct! As we are an independent company without outside investors, we have the luxury of making quick decisions. Following the success of our debut in Harrods earlier this year, it felt like the next logical move. Sloane Square is an international address in the heart and soul of London & we are thrilled to be opening today”.

Don't forget to check our other Ormonde Jayne articles and news.

Outlaw Perfume: Revolutionizing the Industry One Step at Time

If you are one among the many perfume enthusiasts who in the last few years has been informed of the restrictions which have been self-imposed by the International Fragrance Association and the lobbying at Brussels in the European Union of several groups concerned with the allergens, hormone disruptors and other assorted impending signs of the coming Apocalypse in your humble Eau de Toilette, and have been severely icked, irrated and all around cussing beneath your breath, wielding your fist at the powers that be who nanny this existence for you, then read on. And rejoice, because not all is black and doom. A handful of perfumers (natural perfumers of the Guild on this occasion, but how far can more mainstream perfumers be?) are rebelling against perfumery restrictions which do not make much sense.

We're not talking about materials which have been proven to cause brain damage (a miniscule amount already banned since many many years), but of such innocuous and traditional ones such as citrus essence or lavender. Outlaw perfumery is not about being irresponsible, but about being level-headed. In a world where nuclear power risks and air pollutants pose a far greater risk, it seems adhering to a noli me tangere frame of mind is becoming unreasonable and ultimately laughable. If by any chance you had been a castaway these past 3-5 years in the middle of the Pacific or haven't really understood what this furore is all about, you can read all about it on these pages under Restrictions and under IFRA.

The guidelines of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the laws of the European Union (EU) have created an era of vapid, soulless, synthetic perfumes due to the banning or severe usage level limits they have placed on historic perfume ingredients that are used in leave-on or wash-off fragrance products. Rose, jasmine, oakmoss and many other aromatics are now allowed only in tiny amounts, and their scentual presence is dimmed. Independent perfumers are not members of IFRA, but if they are in the EU, they have to abide by the rules. Independent perfumers are also aware of safety issue due to photosensitization, allergenic sensitization and irritation, et al. The Natural Perfumers Guild takes the stand that a warning label should be enough to allow us to use citrus, oakmoss, jasmine, rose and other cherished perfume materials in our creations. If a warning label is good enough for the potentially-deadly peanut, it should be good enough for a perfume that may give you a rash.
One among the perfumers, Anya McCoy, the president of the Natural Perfumers' Guild, says "Just by being a natural perfumer, I’m an outlaw in the eyes of the perfume establishment. I don’t use their synthetic materials and I am self-taught. It’s not a surprise I would not follow the dictates of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) or the European Union (EU)"
A warning label suggested would perhaps read: “Warning label: Enjoy your Outlaw Perfume! It may contain aromatics or alcohol that could cause a slight skin reaction, so it be used with caution. Don’t apply perfume and go out in sunlight. As you would with any scented product, we recommend a patch test or you may spray the perfume in your hair, on an item of clothing, or on a small piece of cloth to tuck into a pocket or sleeve.” In fact isn't the Victorian idea of wearing perfume on a handkerchief, a locket or on hair a very romantic notion? Eschewing skin contact, our beloved perfumes can be reclaimed as our own! If they only let us...

So from this coming Monday November 15th expect to see news & reviews of Outlaw perfumes submitted by a pleiad of natural perfumers under a collective umbrella, crafting compositions that disregard the excessive fear and litigiousness of IFRA on these participating venues:

Gaia at The Non Blonde
Donna at the Examiner.com
Felicia at Fragrance Belles Lettres
Carol at Waft by Carol
Ida, Mark and Monica at Ca Fleure Bon
Lucy at Indie Perfumes
Beth at Perfume Smellin Things
Pat at Olfactarama


In fact I would be personally interested to hear your suggestions for the industry's perfumed products Warning Labels: keep them coming!!

pic originally uploaded on MUA

First Museum Exhibition of Perfume as Art Form in Museum of Arts & Design

"The first-ever museum exhibition on perfume as an art form will premiere at the Museum of Arts and Design in November 2011. Organized by MAD and curated by Chandler Burr, the scent critic for The New York Times, The Art of Scent, 1889-2011 will examine ten pivotal scents as masterful works of art, crafted from both natural raw materials and synthetic molecules. A special installation designed by architect Toshiko Mori that utilizes atomizing machines will provide visitors with a pure, olfactory experience of each work in the exhibition.
The Art of Scent highlights major stylistic developments in the history of olfactory art, beginning in the late nineteenth century—when the use of synthetic materials ushered in the modern era of fragrances—through the present day." [source]
The interesting part is that it will be a semi-blind reception of the odoriferous craftmanship that is ingrained in the 10 fragrances presented: the viewers will be smelling the scents in identical canisters, devoid of the outer characteristics and only demarcated by name, perfumer and year of creation; this idea is carried on to the exhibition catalogue that will offer 10 identical sample vials of the perfumes presented alongside essays by Chandler Burr. His goal? "My goal for this exhibition is to transform the ways in which people respond to scent artists and their art. The works presented in this exhibition are ones that have each had a profound impact on the history of this artistic medium." These works include Jicky, Chanel No.5, Fracas, Eau d'Issey, Angel and Pleasures.

Holiday Gift Guide 2010

It's that time of the year again, when we think about those we love and want to treat to something that will make them smile. Preferably if it caresses the senses it's even better! So let's see some suggestions for every need.

• For the pampered type or the great-ambience-loving friend:

Diptyque limited edition Noel 2010 candles trio: A collection of the famous Diptyque candles, 70g each, in Feu de Bois (Woodfire), Pomander and Sapin (Fir tree). They go for 66euros. Diptyque also makes big stand-alone candles(190g) for the holidays in festive-coloured glass jars with similarly festive scents to aromatize the house for the holidays: Pin (pine) in green, Oliban (olibanum/frankincense) in royal blue, and Orange Epicée (spicy orange) in ruby red.

And of course I can't but highly, highly recommend my beloved Opopanax which is sumptuous powdery orientalia in fragrant vapour... An amazing winter scent!!

• For the serious perfume-philiac:

Traversée du Bosphore, like its namesake strait, is the link between West and East, or rather, between cutting-edge modern French perfumery and its ancient Oriental roots.
Duchaufour eschewed cliches to come up with a composition that marries on the one hand Anatolian leather (suede more like it) and Turkish delight into a unique interpretation of the leather genre. Dry, powdery iris dusts the top notes, while saffron provides another leathery touch. on the other hand a fruity accord of tart apple and pomegranate referencing the apple-scented tobacco smoked in hookahs and the pomegranate juice sold in the markets. The final aftertaste is the rose pistachio-accented Turkish delight. A sweet leather scent for both sexes.

• For the cosmetics junkie:

I was sent info on a new line of non sticky, non glossy lip balms called Lip Elixirs. Created for both men and women, Lip Elixirs is an all-natural line of lip balms in a variety of cocktail flavors including Mimosa, Mojito, Vanilla Bourbon, Sassafras and Chocolate Martini.(You knew there would be some aromatic temptation, wouldn't you?) The lip products are made of Kukui nut oil, aloe and cocoa butters blended with all-natural essential oils and are packaged in a understated retro tin. I admit I would love to receive some Sassafras (with the taste of traditional root beer) or the rather unusually scented Mimosa myself!

• For those with a naturals streak running through them:

Cimbalom by Roxana Illuminated Perfume: This pure botanical fragrance has been named after the stringed instrument closely related to the hammered dulcimer. Like the exotic musical chordophone that can be found dating back to 3500 BC, melodic notes of jasmine with percussive beats of resinous amber and a flourish of citrus rind engage your senses. Cimbalom is a rich floriental featuring Labdanum, Indonesian Patchouli, Indian Jasmine, Ginger and Orange. The fragrance contains a limited edition tincture of jasmine sambac blossoms from the perfumer's woodland garden paired with three different jasmine absolutes. It is available as a liquid perfume extrait in .25ml, 1 ml (sample sizes) and the 7ml flacon as well as in a solid format at Roxana's E-shop. (And while there take a look at the Victorian lockets filled with solid perfume!)

Natural Perfumers' Guild Subscription: Treat someone who wants to seriously learn about perfumes (or yourself!) to a subscription to a great value program, hosted by the Guild of natural perfumers. All new members will receive 20% off the current membership fee. The categories below show the reduced rate, and will be available to all new members who join between October 20, 2010 and November 30, 2010. As a signup bonus, new members will be able to download 50+ vintage, classic and current valuable perfumery and perfumery-related books and articles. You can read the prices and sign up on this page. Give the gift that lasts a whole year! Anya McCoy also gives personal perfumery classes, providing a degree for those following the course, at Perfume Classes. Worth checking out as well.


Don't forget to read more suggestions on gift shopping on these blogs:

IndiePerfumes (Lucy)

Illuminated Perfume (Roxana)

All I Am- A Redhead (Ines)

Scent Hive (Trish)

pic of candle and macaroons via Chasing Rainbows, Kissing Frogs.