Paco Rabanne Lady Million: new fragrance

Puig, the Spanish company behind the Paco Rabanne fragrances portfolio, is launching a new fragrance, rumoured to be the feminine equivalent of the commercially successful masculine One Million, mistakenly reported as Swinging Paris (the mistake according to official info from Puig headquarters was due to a press release that mentioned the words, but in another context). The name will be presented in the press on May 25th, when the official launch will happen. Edit to add: The name is officially confirmed as Lady Million.
Fronted by Dree Hemingway, Mariel's daughter (who is in turn Ernest's grand-daughter), it will be aimed at the hip generation embracing modern aesthetics and fashion consciousness. You see, Dree is model du jour in the runway world (having participated in such prestigious shows as Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianfranco Ferré) and hasn't been "burned" by overexposure just yet.

Paco Rabanne intends to present their latest feminine fragrance Lady Million, as the female alter ego to their recent masculine release, One Million. The scent was supposed to be available in July 2010 according to one source ~while Puig swears the launch will be in May (see above)~ and they continue: “Humour, gluttony and seduction,” will be characterised in the campaign, which will highlight the allure of the blonde ‘rocker.’ For the label Paco Rabanne, “the audacious Dree Hemingway personifies the glamour of today’s ‘femme fetale.’” No words on "notes" yet, but we will supplement as soon as available (something tells me we're faced with a fruitchouli?) Edit to add: It's a fresh woody floral with notes of citron, raspberry, neroli, orange flower, jasmine, gardenia, patchouli and honey and is composed by Anne Flipo, Dominique Ropion and Beatrice Piquet.
On a related note: Is the girl a little too thin for comfort or is it just cranky ol' me talking? Anyway...

Paco Rabanne is nowadays more fondly remembered for their classics (the lovely, easy-going Calandre and the cool Métal from the 70s as well as the animalistic La Nuit from 1985) rather than their modern offerings (Ultraviolet, XS, XS Black etc). So a major feminine release is in many ways a bet for the brand. Let's see what happens!

pics via models.com & fashionindie.com

Michael Kors to receive Hall of Fame Award from The Fragrance Foundation

The Fragrance Foundation just announced that Michael Kors will be honored with the Hall of Fame Award at the 2010 Fragrance Foundation FiFi® celebration on Thursday June 10th, 2010. The Hall of Fame award is voted on by The Foundation’s Board of Directors and is presented to an individual who has brought extraordinary ingenuity, creativity, dedication and inner resources to bear, not only to their company’s success but to the fragrance industry as a whole. We are hereby reminding you that the recipient of the award for last year was Marc Jacobs, by the way.

“Who exemplifies these criteria better than the brilliant, funny and daring Michael Kors?” observes Rochelle Bloom, President of The Fragrance Foundation. “His extraordinary, sophisticated fashion vision promises a fabulous jet-set lifestyle to women everywhere at every age. His successful wardrobe of fragrances complements the sleek, the polished, the glamorous look he so effortlessly creates season after season. We are honored to present him with the Hall of Fame Award.”

Michael Kors has three successful fragrance franchises. The first, which debuted ten years ago, is his signature fragrances for men and women, “Michael Kors” and “Michael Kors for Men”. The second, “Island Michael Kors”, aims to capture a vacation in a bottle with each new limited-edition fragrance that launches, from Fiji to Capri to Hawaii. His third fragrance franchise, “Very Hollywood Michael Kors” most recently debuted to wide acclaim.
In Michael’s own words: “Fragrance is probably the most intimate thing I will ever create. It’s my fingerprint, so I am deeply honored that The Fragrance Foundation has chosen to recognize me.”

How does Michael link his fashion to his fragrance and what inspires him? “I think about fragrance the same way as fashion; it should be treated as a wardrobe. My signature Michael Kors fragrance is the little black dress, chic and timeless. The Island scents are your crisp white shirts, the feeling of relaxed luxury. Very Hollywood Michael Kors is the gold dress. It’s all about that super glamorous, indulgent moment.”
Michael Kors is recognized as one of the world’s preeminent designers for luxury accessories and sportswear. His namesake company, established in 1981, currently produces a range of products through his Michael Kors Collection, KORS Michael Kors, and MICHAEL Michael Kors labels, including women’s and men’s ready to wear, women’s handbags, small leather goods, shoes, eyewear, watches and fragrance.

Michael’s fragrance philosophy? “The ultimate accessory is a divine fragrance that lifts your spirits and gives you a spritz of glamour.” As Rochelle Bloom succinctly puts it “what more could any girl ask for!”

info via press release

Small Miracles

Fingers are still prickly from the odd thorns of flower picking at Grasse and hair bears the salty air from the boat ride from Boulevard de la Croisette in Cannes, overlooking the Lerin islands; the chime of the clock of the hôtel de ville singing the hours is still audible in my mind's ear... It's hard to re-immerse oneself in the routine of the everyday, as one must.



The following posts will tackle a travel memoir of the glorious Grasse trail, the perfect nose training session with perfumery raw materials firms and museums highlight;, cultural notes & musings on the scent traditions & perfume wearing of the French in situ; an in-depth perfumery material post on mimosa; as well as culinary aromatic delights coming from the South of France with lots of fragrant surprises for our readers as always: à très bientôt!

Off for a while...

Same destination as those dapper people and a discovery of the aromatic capital of the south, albeit almost certainly with less glamour. Oh well, c'est la vie!
Have a happy Easter everyone, will be back with surprises for you soon!

Photo of Greek actress Melina Merkouri and her husband French director Jules Dassen from 1960 Festival des Cannes via Lastscan.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Bouquet No.1: fragrance review & giveaway

What do you get when you cross-polinate a popular feminine theme from the early 90s with the desire to break away from the simplistic fruitiness of the latest Aqua Allegoria fragrances? You get Guerlain's Bouquet Numéro 1!

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Bouquet Numéro 1 was created by Thierry Wasser comprising notes of bergamot, freshly cut green grass, white flowers, delicate fruity notes, peach and jasmine. The fragrance arrives in a newly designed flacon with golden honeycomb, a bulby stopper with seperate cap (former Aqua Allegoria scents had no cap on the incoroporated bulbous sprayer) and a golden label, packed in an outer carton decorated with a pink bee, as you can see from the photographs I took of Bouquet No.1. [click to enlarge]. It really does look luxurious and pretty, doesn't it? Even though I personally preferred the more impressionistic outer cartons of yore.

According to the official blurb pains were taken to link it to the linage of the company: The name itself reflects Guerlain’s fragrance heritage, as it references the compositions of Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, founder of Guerlain, and his heir Jacques, namely: Bouquet du Roi d’Angleterre, Bouquet du Jardin du Roi, Bouquet de l’Impératrice, Bouquet Napoléon, Bouquet Duchesse, Bouquet de Paris and Bouquet de Faune. Personally I am not so sure the interweaving of quite so much history in what is definitely a modern juice is really helping either group of potential buyers: hard-core traditionalists or hip modernists. It seems poised in between, with a nod to the 90s (read further on) but not much beyond that to justify historical references that far back. It must be terribly difficult to reconcile the two, we've said it before.


Guerlain's Bouquet Numéro 1 reminds me of both a less sugary or dense 90s Trésor and of Estée Lauder's Pure White Linen Pink Coral from last spring minus the powdery aldehydes. Add the intense peachiness of MDCI Pêche Cardinal and you're almost there! (The same aromachemical as the latter ~which I hypothesized is Decanoic acid 5-hydroxy-lactone~ is used in this composition for the peach note). The introduction on a sharpish note of citrus plus green is meant to be refreshing. Almost immediately, the core chord of peach plus rose is palpable; that velvety, tender, very feminine lactonic vibe which was so obiquitous in the early 1990s through the bombastic popularity of ~mostly synthetic anyway~ Trésor and the products that followed in its zaftig steps. Today, when that theme has been exhausted in commercialised deodorants, body creams, even fabric softeners, it seems a little passé. Enter the bolstering of the peachiness in Bouquet Numéro 1 to render a contemporary fruity note plus ever popular white flowers deprived of their more conniving Gloria Swanson proclivities or animalistic meowing in heat.


They mention that "Guerlain in-house Perfumer Thierry Wasser has chosen to lighten the generous accents of jasmine and rose in the heart of the fragrance. Jasmine offers its light petals, and their lingering scent. Mirroring this emblematic ingredient, rose blend magnifies the heart. At the very core of the fragrance, rose epitomizes femininity. Guerlain uses the rarest essential oils of 'May rose' with a hint of honey for sensuality and 'Damask rose' for fresher and more spicy smell. These two emblematic ingredients optimize the signature of Guerlain's Bouquet n°1." Even though jasmine is touted as a core ingredient, there are no decaying indoles, or nighttime lushness; what I perceive is more of an abstract orange blossom plus a wink of honeyed lilac pollen which gives a little of an effet lessivière, polished though, while the rose, yes, it's discernible all right. The bouquet is therefore a fantasy one, much like the gardenia in the lovely Cruel Gardénia is a the idea of a flower on the drawing board seen through a camera lucida: what you see is assuredly not what you smell. Not that it matters of course! This concept of transparency and abstraction has been utilised also in their other Aqua Allegoria launch this spring, the more mainstream Flora Sudséa Nymphéa. It leaves me wondering how a perfumer of the Transparency School, like Bertrand Duchaufour or Jean Claude Ellena, would go about this kind of concept, yet I fully understand that Guerlain cannot deviate from the curvaceous path they have paved on for centuries.

The scent remains through its base notes a trail of sweet juicy peach and white musks, clean throughout. A gentle fragrance cloud rounded up at last with a delicate hint of almond aroma. The formula is more tenacious on clothes than on my skin where it retains the squeaky clean floralcy better and longer and I can report it doesn't stain. Certainly not "me" in any "cushions of white flowers thrown in a mad sexy war between lovers", but I'm at least happy it signals a deviation from the route of the last few (catastrophic in my humble opinion) Aqua Allegorias.

Aqua Allegoria Bouquet Numéro 1 is Guerlain's first global travel retail exclusive fragrance and available in 75ml of Eau de Toilette.

A sample of Guerlain Bouquet No.1 will be handed out to a lucky reader, randomly picked from the comments. Draw is now closed, thanks!

The bottle was purchased by me. All Guerlain photos taken & copyrighted by Elena Vosnaki.